Member Credit: schmellyfart

Installed a set of the lightweight Millenia wheels today. The main point I want to make is the amount of work needed to get the rear wheels to fit is minimal. I read some old posts making it seem like it was a lot of work and a lot of grinding had to be done.
It was well under a couple minutes of actual sanding/grinding time. I used a Dremel with a sanding drum. The outer lip on the wheel near the centerbore only needs a few thousandths taken off to fit over the rear hub dust caps.

A total of 44lbs lighter then my reinforced (~16lb) rx7 wheels.
205/65R15 on the Millenias 32lb per corner
245/50R16 on the RX7s 43lb per corner

When I had the 225/55R16 on the RX7s, they were about 39-40lbs per corner when brand new.

One thing to note is that the 245s are practially brand new and only have 900 miles on them. And the 205s are maybe 1 or 2/32 from the wear bars. I wasn’t able to weigh the wheels without tires, so there’s a fudge factor of a couple pounds.

And no, I don’t care how bad they look compared to the RX7 wheels. I installed these to see how they affect my fuel economy since I’ve only been getting 25-27mpg with the 3.5.

Member Credit: 3hree5ive0ero

I broke yet another wheel stud and instead of paying the dealership $70 to do it, I decided to do it myself this time. I spent $4.04 (for replacement stud) + $1.00 (for 6 washers). This sure beats paying somebody else to do the work and is definitely more gratifying.

Hopefully, this DIY helps you guys who need their wheel stud(s) replaced.

Level of difficulty:
1.5 out of 5 (5 being hardest)

Approximate install time:
45-90 minutes

Tools:
floor jack and jack stands
socket wrench/ratchet
14mm (9/16″) and 19mm (3/4″) sockets
wd-40 or pb blaster or liquid wrench
~6 washers
hammer or mallet

Replacing the wheel stud:
*I did the rear left side. The fronts should involve the same steps, but may or may not require different socket sizes.

1: Jack up the car high enough using the standard jack points (or frame) so you can slide under the car easily.

2: Remove the wheel, exposing the studs, rotor, brake components, etc.

3: Locate the two 14mm bolts holding the brake caliper in place and remove them.

*Spraying the bolts with wd-40/pb blaster/liquid wrench makes the job much easier, especially if these bolts have not been removed recently.

**The bottom bolt cannot be taken off due to limited space behind it, so I used my floor jack to push up the suspension to create more space.

4: Put the bolts some place where the grease won’t collect stuff off the ground.

5: Rest the brake calipers so that it does not put any strain (put weight on) the brake lines. Take off the brake pads, if you haven’t already.

6: Locate the two 19mm bolts holding the brake caliper bracket in place and remove them.

*Spraying the bolts with wd-40/pb blaster/liquid wrench makes the job much easier, especially if these bolts have not been removed recently.

**I couldn’t take off the bolts by hand so I used the floor jack (while making sure the socket is on the bolt completely as to not strip it).

7: Put the bolts some place where you won’t lose them.

8: Remove the brake caliper bracket and the rotor and set it aside. They should just slide right out.

9: Spray wd-40/pb blaster/liquid wrench where the broken stud is and around it. Hammer away at the broken stud. (Optional: thread in an old/useless lug nut a little bit for added length and to prevent the stud from flying somewhere)

10: Take out the broken stud.

11: Spray the new stud down with wd-40/pb blaster/liquid wrench and put it through the hole where the broken stud was. Place ~6 washers on the stud and tighten the lug nut. Stop tightening when you can feel the head of the stud become flat like the other studs.

12: You’re done! It should look like this.

13: Now put everything back together in the opposite order that you took them out in.
[self explanatory]