I just picked up my HR heads from Gord Bush who cleaned them up for me and flow tested them. We of course have previous numbers from the non-revup heads that I had Gord Bush port – so let’s compare! Visually looking at the HR heads you can see just how much bigger the intake port is than the non-revup heads, and the numbers prove it – the HR heads flow the same as the ported DE heads (in fact substantially more at low valve lifts). The exhaust doesn’t flow quite as well as the ported DE exhaust did, but it is still substantially better than a stock DE at high lifts.
Stock VQ35DE heads on the flow bench, very similar looking to the HR exhaust ports
Stock DE intake ports on the flow bench, substantially different than the HR
One reason the exhaust flows less at low valve lifts may be due to the fact that the HR has smaller valves. While this may be counter intuitive to those of you that go out there and buy the biggest valves you can, a smaller valve shrouds the combustion chamber less, and in-fact promotes flow at higher lifts. My imagination tells me you want the smallest valve and biggest port you can get away with, without overheating the valve.
Once these HR heads are ported, we should be able to get a decent bit more exhaust flow and hopefully crack the 400whp barrier with shorter intake runners and exhaust runners.
Recently, I started to smell strong gas fumes in my car. I always thought it was because I was running “rich”. However, after further inspecting my fuel tank area, I noticed my fuel pump assembly had a small crack on it. This was causing fumes to go inside the car. I’m honestly not sure how this happened and/or how long the car was this way. This also explains why the EVAP emissions readiness monitor was taking a very long time to set.
I ordered a used OEM fuel pump assembly from eBay. It cost me $40 bucks shipped. The old one is on the left and replacement on the right. The OEM part number is 17040-ZD80B. I have an upgraded fuel pump (Aeromotive 340), so I had swap it over to the replacement assembly.
The hose holding the fuel pump is very tight. The photos below courtesy of MrJasonlyrics show how to best remove. First you take a razor blade to make a small cut. Then you insert a flat head screwdriver in between the cut to remove the hose.
I used my existing hose as I felt it was fine. I also added a clamp on it. Don’t over-tighten the clamp as you may break the little tube (photo below) on the fuel pump. I accidentally over-tightened the clamp and the little tube slightly cracked. Thankfully there was enough tube left on pump so that I can put the hose over it and clamp it down.
Black Friday Price: $159.99 (Shipped Anywhere in the Continental US)
2009 – 2016 Nissan Maxima
2007 – 2016 Nissan Altima
2007 – 2013 Nissan Altima Coupe
Tune On The Go is proud to present phenolic its 2pc thermal intake spacers. These spacers are made from 3/8 thick high grade phenolic. The spacers will isolate the throttle body from the manifold and also the manifold from the block.
With the isolated areas spaced off this way the manifold will run about 23 degrees cooler thus creating colder , denser , heavier air into the chamber
Sold as a complete kit which includes:
2 – Extended High Strength Manifold Studs
4 – Stainless Steel Manifold Bolts
8 – Stainless Steel Lock Washers
4 – Stainless Steel Allen Head Throttle Body Bolts
If you are looking to upgrade to the Akebono 4-Piston BBK from a Nissan 370z / Infiniti G37 Sport, you now have the option to use 300ZX (Z32) caliper adapter brackets on eBay. The bracket themselves are $70 bucks shipped. In order for this to work, you will need to use the Mitsubishi Evo X GSR 13.78″ (350 MM) rotors versus the Z34/V36 rotors (354 MM) rotors. The rotors themselves can be found for super cheap as well.
Brackets / Rotors work on the following:
2002-2006 Altima (Front/Rear)
2005-2006 Altima SE-R (Front/Rear)
2004-2008 6thgen Maxima (Front/Rear)
2000-2003 5thgen Maxima (Front ONLY)
1995-1999 4thgen Maxima (Front ONLY)
Notes: For the 4thgen Nissan Maxima, you will need to enlarge the (4) holes in the knuckles to accommodate for bigger caliper bracket bolts. Aside from that it will work fine. Just keep in mind that this is ONLY for the front calipers. Rears will not fit on the 4thgens / 5thgens.
If you eliminate your EGR valve, you’ll likely get a P0400 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Malfunction trouble code. But no worries, here’s what you need to do to get rid of the code.
EGR (What you will be eliminating/deleting)
1. EGR Block-off Plate
Buy the EGR blockoff plate from NWP (you can also make your own). This will go on the intake manifold when you disconnect the piping from the EGR system. If you are doing an HR swap or have a 07-08 Maxima, then you don’t need to do this. They cost $35 bucks from NWP.
2. EGR Exhaust Plug
For the exhaust side plumbing you’ll either need a plug for the exhaust bung or have headers that don’t have an EGR bung. The EGR exhaust bung plug is a M24 plug. You can actually buy it directly from Nissan using this: Plug Taper – Nissan (14052-21R00)
3. EGR Temp Sensor
This is the smallest of the 2 sensors on the EGR piping under the hood. You can either leave it in the engine bay reading ambient air temp or you can trick the ECM by sticking a 10k ohm resistor in the female connector (as my picture illustrates above). I don’t believe you will go into limp mode if you totally remove this sensor and don’t do the resistor trick but you will throw a P0406 (EGR flow sensor A circuit high input) code.
RadioShack Part #: 2711335 10K-Ohm 1/4-Watt Carbon Film Resistor (5-Pack)
Important Note: Make sure resistor is 10K-Ohm not 10-Ohm.
4. EGR Valve Sensor
I removed this sensor (4 screws secure it to the piping) from the piping, left it plugged in to the factory harness and zip tied it to some other wiring under the hood. This one is a big deal as you WILL go into limp mode and can’t rev over approx 3k rpms if you take this sensor out from under the hood! Ask me how I know
5. Coolant Lines
If I remember correctly my coolant lines went to the EGR valve, out to the throttle body and back out to the return plumbing. I basically just took the EGR out of the lineup. So the coolant line runs straight to the Throttle body and back out to the return plumbing. I’ll delete the coolant lines to the throttle body at a later date and time as I was doing a LOT of mods at once and didn’t feel like fooling with it at that time & point.
That should do it!
Update from EddyMaxx (June 24th, 2018)
I performed this on my 2004 Nissan Maxima and drove 3K+ miles. No issues or CEL from the EGR delete. The emissions readiness monitors also pick up EGR as PASS!
Both the Nissan 370Z and the Infiniti G37 calipers are the same size, simply done in different colors respectively. They both will interchange 100% with each other, and all hardware remains the same for both calipers.
I was shopping around for quality fans for my VQ35 Supercharged Nissan Maxima’s (6thgen and 4thgen). The dual Mishimoto fans were not cutting it anymore. And honestly, these were really no different than the 14″ generic ones on eBay. I did some research and found a company called SPAL. A fellow member (Javon B.) vouched for these fans confirmed they work very well. All 12-volt puller models, these Extreme Performance Electric Fans offer the most flow and fan area.
My car would overheat at times when going on long cruises with the air conditioner on. I no longer have any cooling issues at all. This fan is very powerful with 2,024 CFM and does the job with just single 16″ Fan. I’m not even using a shroud.
Make sure you use a good relay (at least 40 AMP) before connecting directly to your OEM harness. I personally used a SPAL relay. More info below:
Fan Part Number: 30102049
Fan Price: Between $100.00 -$130.00
Relay Price: It’s about $33 bucks. The part number for it is SPAL-FRH. It’s a 40-amp relay kit. Highly recommended.
Type: High Performance – 12V Puller – Curved Blade
CFM: 2024 cfm
Width: 16.22″ (412mm)
Depth: 3.45″ (87.6mm)
Made in Italy
Old 14″ Mishimoto Fans. These were 1300 CFM but certainly didn’t feel like it.
Comparison of my 16″ SPAL Fan to Mishimoto 14″ Fan
Mounted on `Mishimoto Radiator. It’s literally a perfect fit.
Photo of the SPAL-FRH Relay (40AMP):
If you don’t use a good relay like the one above, this will happen (Photo Courtesy of Javon Bennet)