mySER 05-06


Member Credit: Eddy

My SPAL fan recently had an issue due to some wiring that made contact with the headers. It caused the two wires coming out of the fan itself to touch and it ended up ruining the fan motor. So this time around I decided to go with the SPAL 14″ 1864 CFM fan. Primarily because its a little smaller in size and give me a little more clearance with my 5thgen Maxima supercharged setup. The CFM is good enough. I also have a small 10″ fan as well (not SPAL) but just as a backup.

Make sure you use a good relay (at least 40 AMP) before connecting directly to your OEM harness. 

Fan Part Number:30102042

Fan Price: Between $120.00 -$140.00


  • Model: 30102042
  • Airflow CFM: 1864
  • Profile: High Performance
  • Blade: Curved
  • Push/Pull: Pull
  • Height: 15.04″
  • Depth: 3.45″
  • Width: 14.45″


If you don’t use a good relay like the one above, this will happen (Photo Courtesy of Javon Bennet)

Owner: Shawn “Syko” Gordon

Year: 2005
Model: Altima
Color: Black
Engine: Gen2 VQ35DE
Transmission: Manual 6-Speed HLSD
Trim: SE-R

Video Credit: AdminTuning


Full Mod List / Specs:

  • 2017 Gen2 VQ35DE Motor w/ 16K Miles
  • Stock 6-Speed HLSD Tranmission
  • R.I.P.P Custom Supercharger Kit with 2.70″ Pulley
  • Vortech V2 Supercharger
  • 2009 Maxima Idler Pulley for Supercharger
  • Full 3″ Intercooler & Charge Piping
  • Stock Exhaust & Muffler
  • eBay Headers and Y-Pipe
  • Gates Green Belt
  • 2015 370z Akebono brakes
  • Battery Relocated
  • Glowshift gauges

Owner: Corey Mott

Year: 2005
Model: Altima SE-R
Color: Smoke Metallic
Engine: VQ35DE
Transmission: 6-Speed Manual

Mod List:

  • Ionic Dynamics Carbon Fiber Engine Cover
  • Mishimoto Catch Can
  • Mishimoto Radiator
  • Mishimoto Oil Cap
  • Mishimoto Carbon Fiber Radiator Cap
  • Mishimoto Power Steering Reservoir
  • Moog Front Sway End Links
  • Moog Rear Sway End Links
  • Moog Rear Hubs
  • Moog Front Hubs
  • Moog Front Right & Left Control Arms
  • Anarchy Motive Shift Knob
  • Redline Tuning Elite Hood Struts
  • Rays Lug Nuts
  • Rays Valve Stem Caps
  • Nismo A34 Wheels
  • Continental Extreme Contact
  • Axxtion Short Shifter
  • Gauge and Switch Color Swap
  • Racingline Rear Sway Bar
  • Racingline KYB Front Struts
  • Racingline KYBRear Shocks
  • Racingline Front & Rear Lowering Springs
  • Racingline Front Strut Tower Bar
  • Racingline Battery Tie Down
  • Goodridge Ss Brake Lines
  • Redline Goods Shifter Boot, Ebrake, Armrest, Steering Wheel Cover
  • Red Lion Shifter Bearings
  • Red Lion Solid Motor Mounts
  • CMOD Color Matched Grill
  • JWT Lightweight Flywheel
  • SS Clutch Line
  • Stage 2 Clutch
  • Custom 3” Exhaust with OBX Mufflers and Vibrant Performance Resonator
  • OBX Headers
  • 3.5” Intake
  • Uprev Tuned
  • EPS Tuning Gasket
  • Rear Color Matched Roof Spoiler
  • All Weather Floor Mats
  • J2 Racing Light Weight Pulley
  • Ebc Rotors and Pads in the Front with Calipers Powder Coated Red and New Se-r Decals
  • VLEDs License Plate Lights
  • VLEDs Parking Lights
  • VLEDs Reverse Lights Bulb
  • VLEDs Tail/Brake Light Bulb
  • VLEDs Rear Blinker
  • VLEDs Resistor for Rear Blinker
  • VLEDs All Interior Lights
  • Morimoto Fog Lights
  • Morimoto Low Beams
  • Morimoto Front Switchback with Resistors
  • Pioneer AVH-2330NEX
  • Hydrographics Hydro Dipped Carbon Fiber Windshield Wiper Vowel, Side Mirror Caps, Fog Light Bezels, SE_R Trunk Emblem, Ebay Front Grill

Member Credit: Matt Riney

For all you hardcore Nissan/Infiniti enthusiasts, there is finally an open-source solution that allows you to modify and flash ECUs! With a $10 VAG-KKL cable, you can basically flash your own ECU and tune it your to personal comfortable without breaking your wallet. The average tune costs roughly $600+ these days. Since you’re modifying the ROM yourself, there’s no vendor lock-in and you are free to do what you need and want. Great for those who have knowledge of tuning and want to tune their own vehicles!

Applicable Vehicles: 

  • 2000-2001 5thgen Nissan Maxima
  • 2003-2003 5.5gen Nissan Maxima
  • 2004-2008 6thgen Maxima
  • 2009 7thgen Maxima
  • 2002-2004 Nissan Altima
  • 2005-2006 Nissan Altima SE-R
  • 2003 Infiniti G35
  • And various others……

Links to Tool/Software that you will need (Click links to Download):

Below are helpful videos on installing and running Rom Raider, along with dumping a Nissan SH7055 ECU with the Nisprog/Npkern software.

  • Kernel 7055_35 is used by the early ecus 2002 & 2003 Maxima (and 2004 in most cases).
  • Kernel 7058 is used for 05+ Maxima
  • It’s all based on the ROM size. If the ROM size is 512K then  you should use the 7055_35 kernel. If the ROM size is 1024K then you use the 7058 kernel.

Cars Tuned on ROMRaider / Nisprog

5.5 Gen Maxima Tuned by AdminTuning VQ35 Bolt Ons

Shaquille Jenkins 5.5 Gen Maxima Gen2 VQ35DE

Trevon Walters 4thgen Maxima Hits 11.77 (All Motor) Gen2 VQ35DE

Which ECUs Will This Work On?

Most gasoline Nissan / Infiniti ECUs from ~ 2002 onwards share very similar ECU hardware, based on SuperH microcontrollers manufactured by Renesas (previously Hitachi). This project supports ECUs that use the OBD-II “K line” signal for diagnostics communications.

How Does the Reflash Process Work?

The process is carried out entirely over the OBD-II “K Line” serial communications link through an undocumented set of manufacturer-defined extensions to the standard ISO14230 protocol. Recently, the necessary commands have been reverse-engineered revealing the required steps:

  1. Establish connection to the ECU.
  2. Send the first stage data payload: this is the “kernel”, a simple program that will receive commands and data for the reflash.
  3. Make the ECU run the kernel. From this point on, the kernel runs from RAM and effectively takes control of the whole ECU.
  4. Send the reflash commands and new firmware data to the kernel.
  5. Reset the ECU: the new firmware will now be executed, and the kernel will be completely removed.

Kernel Features

The basic kernel is an implementation of an ISO14230-compliant protocol with extensions. It implements the following requests:

  • Fast ROM dump (tested up to 5.4 kB/s; typical speed is ~100 B/s without a kernel)
  • Read ROM/RAM/external EEPROM
  • Write to RAM
  • Erase flash ROM block
  • Write flash ROM block


The basic reflashing kernel will support gasoline ECUs with:

  • SH7055 or SH7058, 0.18um microcontrollers (the most common types)
  • K line wired to the OBD-II connector pin 7
  • Unfortunately CAN-only ECUs are not currently supported.

Host computer:

  • OS: Linux and Windows are known to work; Nisprog is based on freediag source code which is cross-platform and should run on most Linux/UNIX flavors.
  • Connectivity: a simple USB-OBD adapter is required. These are the “Generic dumb serial adaptors” described in the freediag docs.

OBD2 KKL VAG-COM 409.1 USB Cable


There are several important points to be aware of when using Nisprog:

  • The ECU is a safety-critical system in a car. Reflashing an ECU can void warranties, reduce the vehicle’s reliability, and cause a whole variety of undesirable consequences. Use of this project and any associated tools (freediag, Nisprog, etc) is of course entirely at the user’s risk. Standard disclaimers apply.
  • Reflashing an ECU may be illegal in some areas. Responsibility in this matter lies again with the user.
  • Diesel ECUs are not supported, they are entirely different.
  • Tuning and modifying ROMs are complex skills that can only be acquired through significant investments of time and effort!

Owner: Caleb Anderson

Year: 2005
Model: Altima
Color: Silver
Engine: Gen2 VQ35DE (FWD HR Swap)
Transmission: 6-Speed Manual
Trim: SE-R

Mod List:

  • 2013 Maxima Gen2 VQ35DE Engine (HR Swap)
  • Tuned on UpRev
  • on3 performance 61mm GT3582R Turbo 
  • Custom Turbo Kit w/ Manzo Headers
  • 44mm on3 Wastegate
  • 50mm on3 BOV
  • Full 3 Inch Intercooler Piping until the Main 3.5″ Charge Pipe
  • CXJ Vias Block-Off Plates
  • GTR Injectors and Spark Plugs
  • Full 3 Inch Exhaust Y into 2.5″ Magnaflow Mufflers
  • Oil Warmer Delete
  • External Oil Cooler
  • OPL Aluminum Radiator
  • Unorthodox Underdrive Pulley
  • Maxima 78mm Intake with Maxima 75mm Throttle Body
  • Grounding Kit
  • 1 Piece Clutch Line
  • AEM 320 Fuel Pump
  • Throttle Body Spacer with Nitrous Port (Will Be Used on the Built Motor with Bigger Turbo)
  • Throttle Body Coolant Delete
  • EGR Delete
  • Stillen (Aasco) 13lb Flywheel W/ Xtd Stage 3 Clutch
  • Brace Welded Clutch Pedal
  • DE Coolant Log
  • Custom Electronic 1st Gear Switch for Magnus Electronic Clutch Slip Device
  • Tein Lowering Springs
  • Racingline Traction Rods
  • B&M Short Throw with Axxtion Short Throw
  • Redlion Racing Solid Shifter Bushings
  • Racingline Strut Bar
  • Custom Rear Brace Bars
  • PLX Devices AFR Gauge and Boost Gauge
  • Drilled and Slotted Rotors
  • Racingline Front and Rear Adjustable Swaybar Endlinks

Member Credit: Andrew Nicholas

Until someone can TRULY engineer perfect Akebono brackets that bolt on to front Altima with zero modding needed, I only recommend this to people who are mechanically inclined, are willing to DIY, and go through some trial and error and use your intuition. Z1 motorsports 300ZX Z32 to Akebono adapters totally work but only for the DIY-enthusiast willing to modify them and spend some hours in the garage. Caliper lugs have to be shortened 6.85 mm to almost flush with the bracket. Also sleeving 14 mm bolt hole for 12 mm bracket bolts. Plus grinding a recess in the bracket for CV joint clearance.

Z1 Motorsports Akebono Front Brake Bracket Kit (300ZX)

Price: $148.00 + Shipping
Order Link:

Description: The Z1 Motorsports Akebono Front Brake Brackets are intended to mount the Sport model, Akebono Brake Calipers from the ’09+ Nissan 370Z or ’08+ Infiniti G37 Sport onto your 300ZX.

Each Z1 Akebono Brake Bracket Kit includes two black, hard anodized aluminum front brackets and all necessary hardware to properly install the calipers onto your ’90-’96 Nissan 300ZX. Designed and tested extensively in house, these are the best brackets on the market with the most even pad sweep. Our unique single piece design also makes installation a breeze. In addition, the one piece bracket design also means our brackets are more rigid than other pieced together kits on the market. These brackets do not require any additional machining or modification of the caliper itself in order to complete the installation.

Installation & Write-up

Rear is perfect install on knuckle with NO ADAPTER needed. No fuss no muss. You need the rear 370Z akebono calipers, rear 370Z rotors (I got Centric 120.42101 blanks), rear 370Z pads (I got Carbotech 1521 pads), Altima Stainless Steel Lines and you must specify the Akebono banjo bolts for these lines!

Perfectly centered, no shims necessary.

All 4 brackets were spaced for rear. Returned them and bought the Z1 adapters.

Z1 300ZX Z32 to akebono adapters. Quality 1 piece design. Altima front mount is 14mm and 300ZX is 12mm so some modding will be needed.

Re-drilling and tapping from 12 mm to 14 mm requires precision fixturing for diameter control as well as perpendicularly to existing holes, something I can’t do at home. Therefore I’ll sleeve the knuckle lugs with 1 mm shim stock coiled into a split bushing to eliminate any slop when mounting the adapters with 12 mm.

Axial positioning of calipers is outward approximately 1/2 inch. The alignment would probably be right on if the adapter thickness positioned calipers at the original lug surface. I suspect the 300ZX knuckle had a different offset.

Caliper lugs have to be shortened 6.85 mm to almost flush with bracket. Some other people who had issues with mounting 300zx brackets said they needed a few washers to space out the bracket from the knuckle and shave the top crevice of the caliper for the rotor to spin free A few washers adds up to what I did. I ended up using two slightly thicker OEM caliper bolt washers (6.85 mm total) and it seems to provide perfect centering

Sleeving 14 mm bolt hole for 12 mm bracket bolts. Plus grinding a recess in bracket for CV joint clearance. Should fit even better

At the local fastener store and got automotive grade revised bolts (didn’t have the proper lengths on hand)
Some pad overhang is negligible and at the pad is at the OD where it belongs. Swept area doesn’t cover full rotor radial which must be by design and still has massive capacity that will not get hot unless you’re at the track.
For front rotors, I am using are Lancer EVO X Centric High Carbon rotors which are 13.78 inches instead of 370Z’s 14 inch. There was controversy that 370Z rotors wouldn’t fit so I got the Mitsubishi ones. Doesn’t matter, they are same thickness and everything just 0.2 inches less diameter – never gonna make a difference.
Finally got the fronts centered and mounted. Had a problem with bracket interfering with caliper reinforcing rib when torquing down final assembly and had to disassemble and do more minor bracket mods.
Clears stock SE-R wheels with no spacers
Clears 18×9.5 35mm Enkei Pf01 wheels

Credit: Shawn G. / EddyMaxx

For those looking at boosted setups and want an intercooler, below is one that fit good. It needs to be same-side because trying to route piping on the passenger side will be very rough. Plus with this setup, you can retain your fog lights. It just requires modifying the crash bar for it.

Manufacturer: EMUSA
Price: $119.00 + Tax ($130.00)
Amazon Link:

Intercooler Specs:

  • Oversize: Oversize 27″X11″X3″
  • Core size 22″X11″X3″
  • 2.5″ Inlet and Outlet
  • 5 – 50 P.S.I. RATING
  • 600-700 HP MAX

Intercooler Photos:

Installed Photos:


Member Credit: myer84

I finally finished installing my last mod. For a while I’ve been searching for a shift light indicator, but nothing as big as a Monster Tach or anything that would make the car look ricey. My idea of a shift light was something that would be small and inconspicuous.

I came across a shift light module from Raptor Performance that allows you to connect a single L.E.D or more. The module is small and can be hidden under the dash and the L.E.D or L.E.D’s can be mounted anywhere in the car. With this module you can have a shift light that is not noticeable and does not take up any space or block your view like a monster tach.

Here are the instructions on how to install the shift light. The total install time was 1 hour and quite simple.

The green wire connects to the tach signal. In our cars this can be found at any ignition coil. Each coil has three wires running to them. Each coil has a red and black wire and the third wire is of a solid color with a stripe. Below is the color configuration for each coil

(coil driver #1 ) —–> Brown/Red stripe
(coil driver #3 ) —–> Blue/Red stripe
(coil driver #5 ) —–> Pink/White stripe
(coil driver #2 ) —–> Green/Red stripe
(coil driver #4 ) —–> Grey
(coil driver #6 ) —–> Grey/Red stripe

In my install, I went with coil # 6

I tapped the Grey/Red wire with a 22 AWG wire tap and ran a 22 AWG wire into the cabin.

Once I finish running the other end of the wire through the firewall, the next step was to find a 12 volt source and ground. For my 12 volt source I choose the fuse for the rear power sockets

In order to use that same fuse I added a fuse tap

The tap has two slots to add fuses. One slot is used for the original fuse to work with the rear power sockets and the other is used for my new 12 volt source (tack module). Next step was to find a good grounding point

Now with the ground, 12 volt source, and tach signal connected we can now tap these wires into the harness that comes with the module. The harness has a green, red, and black wire. Green is for the tach signal and of course red for 12 volt and black for ground. The L.E.D ground will connect to the Normal Open Contact (see below ).

Now with the ground, 12 volt source, and tach signal connected we decided to install a switch so that I can turn on and off the module. I mounted the switch on the bottom of the panel below next to where the courtesy bulb connects. The 12 volt source from the fuse box connects to the switch and from the switch to the module.

The next step is to find a spot where you want to mount your L.E.D’s. The spot I chose was on the bezel that surrounds the odometer and tach. To connect the L.E.D’s you can connect the + wire to the 12 volt tap we are using for the module and the ground you will need to connect on the Normal Open Contact.

Now that we have all of this installed we can now adjust the dial on the module to your desire settings. In my case I wanted the module to send the signal to the L.E.D’s when the RPM would hit 6,100k. At 6,100K the L.E.D should light up and give me enough time to react and shift before redline.

To do this I set the RPM X 1000 at 6 and the RPM X100 at 1. This gives me a dial of 6,100 RPM. If you want to do 6,500 you would set RPM X 1000 at 6 and RPM X100 at 5. Since we are only using one coil lead in our install you will only leave the cylinder setting at 1 on the dial. You will notice that there is a small toggle switch on the module. This switch was installed on the module in order to read a low volt signal from the coil.

Once you set your signal point on the module hook the harness to the module and turn on your ignition.
If the rpm switch isn’t picking up a signal after you program it (noted by rapid green LED flash), slide the small slide switch to the alternate position. Also, make sure your power switch is also on the “ON” position. If the install was done correctly you will see the following

  • A: The status LED will turn yellow and will flash the number of times which is representative of the RPM X 1000 setting
  • B: There will be a pause for about two seconds (no status LED flash)
  • C: The status LED will turn red and will flash the number of time which is representative of the RPM X 100 setting
  • D: There will be another pause of two seconds (no status LED flash)
  • E: The status LED will turn orange and will flash the number of time which is representative of the “cylinder setting” (in our case 1), and finally the module will do an LED test (alternating red & yellow) and be ready for use.

Once this is done close you module with its cover and install anywhere under the dash. I installed mine with double sided tape. Clean up the mess and enjoy.

Here is a video of how it works on my car. BTW, I want to thank my other half for helping me record the vid.

Credit: Jose R Garcia Colon & Robert Mandru

UPDATE from Robert Mandru: Have both the 300zx and 350z bracket adapters. They will NOT clear with Evo X 2 piece rotors, maybe just 1 piece. Even with one piece it still wouldn’t clear the inside, rotor too large with the 350z/G35 adapter. The EVO X top hats are too big and will not allow the calipers to bolt up. Probably could do it with the 300zx adapter without modding the caliper but for god sake, you have smaller bolts that are supporting all the strain coming from holding the caliper in place during braking conditions. Not worth it.

In simple terms….. do not bother with the eBay 300zx Caliper Adapters

For better fitment, you are better off with these brackets: