00-03 5thgen Nissan Maxima Gauge Pod Gallery
my4dsc: 19
By eddymaxx
Member Credit: EddyMaxx
Adding some helpful information regarding this code P1706. The sensor was broken and I almost couldn’t find it. Replacing the sensor resolved the code. I ran into this issue and decided to document my findings for anyone needing to troubleshoot this.
P1706 Nissan DTC: Park Neutral Position Switch Circuit Malfunction
The Nissan park neutral position sensor / PNP switch is designed to detect when the shift lever is in neutral or park. If the shift lever is in another gear, the park neutral position switch will not allow electricity to pass from the battery to the starter. A P1706 OBDII code indicates that there is a malfunction with either the switch itself or the wiring connected to it.
Symptoms
- Inability to start the engine
- Engine will start with the shift lever is in neutral but not Park
- Engine will start in any gear
Causes
- Damaged wiring or connectors
- Failed park neutral position switch
How to Diagnose the Code?
The best way to diagnose a P1706 OBD2 trouble code is to carefully inspect the wiring and connectors leading from the switch itself to the main wiring harness. If no issues are found, the switch itself will have to be tested and possibly replaced.
Automatic Transmission Switch
Part Desc: Neutral Position Switch
Part Number: 31918-3AX01
OEM Price: Around $20-25 Bucks
6-Speed Manual Transmission (2003 Nissan Maxima)
Part Desc: Neutral Position Switch
Part Number: 32006-6J00A
OEM Price: Around $15 Bucks
The wires are Green/White and Black for the Switch.
Don’t confuse the above sensor with the blue one which is your reverse lights sensor. It has a Green/White and Orange Wire. But if you need to replace it, below is the info and photos:
Part Desc: Switch Assy-Reverse Lamp
Part Number: 32005-6J00A
OEM Price: Around $20-25 Bucks
Factory Service Manual Sections (Engine Control EC Section)
my4dsc: 169
Member Credit: 415Max96
So I installed Polk DB6500’s and DB650’s (rear) today, managed to snap a few pics:
INSTALLING REARS
1. Start by taking off the doors.
2. Rear bose speaker is a 5.25 attached to a protective plastic piece. unscrew speaker and disconnect
— you will have this left, now remove the white piece, its held by three screws
3. The new 6.5″ polk met some resitance from white piece, the trim on top did not alow the speaker to fully submerge so a trimming had to be made
—————->
4. Attach the new speaker, if it comes with the foam padding, place it between speaker and the white piece
5. Easy as cake, make sure evrything works and remember to put all plugs back in their respective places, put door back on and your ready to get crackin with the fronts 
THE FRONTS
1. Refer to step 1 in rear doors and remove front door panel.
2. Remove the A-Pillar, its help by to clips
Here we see the pathetic stock tweeter…i had to put on my grandmothers glasses to see that it was a tweeter and not a glued on dime
Comparrison of OLD and NEW Polks
and the Tweeters
NOTE; be carefull not to damage the tweeter in removing the grill, i got into a liitle rush and ended up poking the tweeter, thank godness no performance damage
3. Installing new tweeters; since their is no way to use the stock mount for the new tweeter i had to improvise with some industrial velcro. Yes, its ghetto; how well it will hold up i will have to wait and see. After install i took it out for a drive and did not notice any rattles coming from either side.
The cable I ran the new cable throught the weather stripping. peel it back, insert new wire, put it back.
I tried to see if i could run the wire through the rubber protector that runs all the stock wire from cabin to door, however i found that their is not 1 cm of space for the new wire. I ended up using rubber heat shrink to cover the exposed wire between the weather stripping and the part were it enters the door
4. You CAN however, feed the tweeter wire through the door side of the rubber protector and fish it out of the other side
NOTE: carefull not to allow the wire to interfere with teh operartion of the window rail.
I forgot to take some pics but you can get the idea of were the wire should run to. Also note the location of the Crossover. It is securely ziptied and did nt seem to make any noise during install or during the test drive, hopefully it will hold up and wont need to be relocated. Their were no fitment problems during re-installation of the door panel
5. Here is another view of were the new wires go through.
6. Woofer install
The stock fronts seem to be 6.75″ because i had to use the brackets supplied from crutchfield. Attaching brackets to the white bezel is straight froward. I used the foam spacer between the bracket and the speaker
7. Again make sure everything works before re- instaling everything.
Additional Notes;
I. The stock signal goinng to the woofers was used for the cross-over.
II. Time to complete both front and rears was about 5 hours, includes taking pictures and figuring out best way to run all the wires. I had the most trouble finding a way to route the new tweeter wire. After figuring out one side, the other one was a piece of cake.
my4dsc: 76
Owner: Javon Bennet
Year: 2002
Model: Maxima
Color: Gray Lustre Clearcoat Metallic (KV3)
Transmission: Manual 6 Speed
Trim: SE
OK, so I completed the end of my N/A journey here and about to start the REAL power! Going with a custom turbo kit. I am going to keep my Cattman headers and the shop will fabricate something out of my y-pipe to use the turbo. Going to use stock 5.8 spring PSI for daily driving and then move to 7.5PSI on a manual boost controller for some SAFE stock block fun!!! I’ll be using the Haltech 350z Platinum Pro to Tune with. Hoping to put down close to 400hp.
Below are photos of my N/A build:
Powder coated SFR Intake Manifold
CLOSE UP pf brand new 6th gen valve cover:
Haltech dual wideband controller in engine bay:
Precision 650cc Injectors:
Battery Relocated to Trunk:
Haltech Dual A/F ratio gauge:
Haltech Platinum Pro in Glove Box:
Inside Car View
Let’s get this party RE-STARTED!!!! TURBO TIME!
Precision CEA Dual Ceramic Ball Bearing Turbo .82 exhaust and .70 compressor housing:
Size comparison:
Actually taking the car in Wednesday to get everything done. Powdercoated the upper radiator brackets, hood sensor mount and these Radiator ends candy blue that are going on the stainless steel chrome flexible radiator hoses I bought. Gonna look hot!!
Went by the shop today to drop off the Stillen front lip and my IM spacer that I forgot and they were already painting the calipers and caliper brackets AND had the rear rotors on:
FASTBRAKE REAR BIG BRAKE KIT ROTORS (still have to paint the hub part black):
Finally got the One step colder plugs in from NGK and the OBX Oil pan spacer in yesterday and took them to the shop.
OBX Oil Pan Spacer with extra tapped hole for oil return line for turbo:
Before I go to work today I’m going to drop by and take some pics of some progress they have made. The ONLY thing that I am currently waiting on to arrive are the coolant lines….front the diagram you can see I ordered the 2 coolant lines that run along the front of the engine, the main coolant line that the 2 connect to with the coolant sensor (11060) and the other connector part that connects the 2 coolant lines on the other side of the engine in the front (11060G). Spoke to the dealer and should be here by tomorrow or Thursday. These parts will be powdercoated candy blue. Got new screws, o-rings and hoses too so everything looks brand new.
Once the car is complete I will take my dremel polishing kit and some 3M metal polish and polish some of the other metal lines to get the gook out. Maybe even touch up some spots where rust is inside the engine. Just want it to look nice!
OK went to the shop today and they got the new clear plastic gauge cluster on, got the NGK spark plugs installed and put the NWP spacer on the manifold. As you can see there is plenty of clearance even with the spacer. This will help keep intake temps down so I can make MO POWAH!!
I was also thinking about where to put the boost and AFR gauges. I didn’t want pods along the door (yuck), and I wanted to put them somwhere I could see but be hidden. We thought about glove compartment but there is the airbag on the top and glove compartment wont close if you put them in there. Also I dont want ot have to drive with the GC open..thats WACK!! I was trying to put them on top of the steering column but that becomes intrusive and I cant see the other gauges on the dash. So we settled on this:
Also getting black lug nuts to go along with the black painted calipers and caliper brackets. They still have to drill the tap holes on the Racing brake calipers…they were too small:
Caliper brackets that came with Racing Brake kit holes are too small for stock screw and will have to be drilled and re-tapped to accept OEM screw……GOOFBALLS:
Went to the shop again!! YES I GO EVERYDAY because I’m working afternoon shifts!!! LOL!! Anyway, they had the oil pan off and cleaning it all up to install the OBX Oil pan spacer I bought:
Took a grinder and got all that gasket crap off and cleaned up inside of the pan like BRAND NEW!!
READY TO INSTALL!!!
They ALSO finished the boost and AFR gauge install!!! Looks so DAM HOT!!! Could not get the blue colors to show up good on the camera but will make a video when its all complete. It looks REALLY good when the car was turned on!!!
Pretty much what is left is they have to install front brake kit (still have to tap front caliper holder), connect rad fans and upper hose and powdercoat new coolant lines (line will be in by Monday) and fill radiator back up with coolant. Also install and paint the front lip. Then they can begin installing the turbo and welding the piping up!
Went to the shop today and they have the oil pan spacer on:
FRONT:
SIDE:
BACK:
I also bought a REAL Nismo oil cap from Japan. Got tired of that FAKE one with the stick on Nismo label that kept falling off….GARBAGE!!!
Almost done with all the little parts. They already have the fuel pump installed….didnt get pics of that because it was already complete when I arrived (they work fast). Just have to get that caliper brackets re-tapped to put the front brake kit on, put new powdercoated coolant lines on and then they will start with the turbo piping and paint front lip and put it on…then its tune time!!!!
No big update like I thought because the company that the shop ordered the intercooler from has not delivered it yet so they have not finished the turbo piping yet, but they have gotten it started. Here are some pics of what they have so far:
As you can see the entire cattman setup from headers to y-pipe from the cattback will be used…
Cattman fastcat where downpipe will connect:
The intercooler should arrive this week so hopefully they can get this completed this week so I can go and get this thing tuned and running. I’ll post more updates as new things come along.
OK intercooler FINALLY came in today……its really nice and thick too. Now they can get to work on finishing all the turbo piping. They were also installing the powdercoated coolant pipes too….should have pics of that tomorrow:
Nice thick intercooler:
More updates…..getting there. Installing the intercooler now and also got pics of the coolant pipes installed. I also got more pics of the piping because they had the car on the lift:
Here are the coolant pipes:
OLD RUSTED UGLY COOLANT PIPES:
THE NEW STUFF!!!
They were mounting the intercooler and starting to weld the piping for the downpipe when I left….so they should be about finished soon. After they have everything welded up they are going to send the exhaust side off to get ceramic coated and they are going to polish the intake piping. Engine bay going to look really nice!!!
The intercooler is mounted
Intercooler came with these nice brackets which made it VERY easy to mount
Example of how hotside piping into intercooler will look. Going to have to drill a hole into one part of the front of the engine near the radiator
Front bumper lower grill was cut out to make room for the intercooler to fit
View of the front bumper with lower grill cutout. Going to install some black mesh grill in place of the factory plastic lower grill to cover intercooler and make it hidden a little bit
Fuse boxes relocated to make room for the turbo
Speaking of turbo…..
View of engine bay from the top….gonna be so sexy when finished!!
View of exhaust pipe coming into turbo. Another bracket will be welded from the side of the from to the piping to hold it
Thats about it for today. I also changed my lugnuts from the silver ones to black to match the outside theme of silver and black. They are spline lug nuts with a key. I am going to sell the original silvers ones with the key if anyone wants them they can PM me. Here are how the black ones look.
When everything is finished still have to install and paint stillen front lip a satin black, tint all 4 windows 35% (20% too dark and dont want tickets from popo).
Downpipe (starts 3″ from turbo exhaust then reduced to 2.5″ for clearance under car):
Downpipe sprayed with high temp paint:
Downpipe wrapped with BLUE heatwrap:
Downpipe attached….
I had ordered some high heat straps to hold heatwrap but they were too small so I have to order some longer ones….in the meantime they used steel wire to hold it until the straps come in………
Just a pic showing a YEAR later how JETHOT sterling silver high temp ceramic coating holds out!!! Even through salt and winter slush!!! Still shining!!!
FINAL ENGINE BAY PIC……..(only need to weld intake piping, and BOV, also weld on wastegate and attach oil fittings….)
404whp & 393ft-lbs @8psi:
I thought this was VERY interesting..
I took my fully bolted on and tuned ALL Motor Maxima tune and laid it on top of the Turbo tune……
Before (All motor): 275whp @6000rpm & 258ft-lbs @4700rpm
After (Turbo): 404whp @6200rpm & 393ft-lbs @4500rpm
DIFFERENCE: +129WHP & +138FT-LBS @8psi
As you can see there is no lag at all.
At 3000rpms Im making 148whp & 260ft-lbs vs. 127whp & 224ft-lbs.
At 3500rpms Im making 192whp & 288ft-lbs vs. 154whp & 231ft-lbs.
Basically increases through out the ENTIRE RPM BAND!! SWEET!!
Thought it would be nice to post this here to show where the build came from (Stock) to now:ENGINE BAY
First Bought Stock:
All Motor Full Bolt On No Tune:
All Motor Full Bolt On with Haltech Tune:
Custom Turbo Kit:
STOCK:
NOW:
STOCK:
NOW:
So I decided to do a makeover on the Maxima. I wanted to get rid of those UGLY blue couplers on the intercooler drawing attention to the intercooler ruining the turbo “surprise” lol. I removed the burger and painted my front grill black. Also removed the headlights and going to black out the housing.
Here is a before and after pic of the grill. I wet sanded it then painted it with a low gloss black engine enamel because it should be more durable than regular paint.
Here is a before and after pic of the intercooler couplers. I absolutely HATED that blue garbage down there. Looks so much more “secret” now.
Here is a pic of the original 90 degree black coupler and the blue coupler on the passenger side that was on. I had to cut the original black couplers with the dremel to match the length of the blue couplers (the drivers side blue coupler was also custom cut as well)……
I also had to paint the t-clamps black because dont want no silver to be showing down there…just want it all to be black so no one sees anything.
Bought the diamond plated floor mats for the car and they look awesome, but the edges are sharp and they are starting to actually cut into the factory carpet from people’s feet rubbing on the mat. So I bought some chrome trim to put around the edges to make it smooth so they dont cut into the carpet…..
BEFORE:
AFTER:
Took the car to the shop 3-27-13 to get all the upgrades!
This is how she looked before….
New Turbo PTE 5858 Dual Ball Bearing .64 A/R pics arrived 3-29-13:
Also got some racing motor mounts from RedLion:
VIS Invader hood came in 4-1-13:
And Hood pins…..
Thing so light you can ONE HAND IT!!
Shop almost got the 3″ Downpipe done……
They got both motor mounts on the pass and trans side done.
The Tein Coilovers were getting installed along with the EDFC
The new Michelin pilot super sport 255/40 18s are in and mounted
Here are they next to the Federal 595SS 245/40 18s…
I noticed that the Michelin’s have a MUCH softer and stickier compound thatn the Federals. I can’t wait to try these bad boys out!!! All that is left for them to do is finish the install of the Tein Coilovers and EDFC and install The VIS hood with hood pins and we are good to go!
Put in some home time work on the max today….wrapped the 3″ Downpipe and also wrapped the feedpipe but it was still on the car….what a PITA!! Also put turbo blanket on.
3″ Downpipe before:
AFTER:
Feedpipe before:
AFTER (wrapped all the way back to the ypipe):
More shots:
BLUE WRAP BEFORE….
I used heatshield inferno wrap. Said its good for 2000 degrees continuous and 30000 degrees peak. Stuff is gonna be awesome! I used 2-50′ rolls. Let them both soak in water before I applied the wrap. It was fairly easy.
Tomorrow going to attempt to install these hood pins and also change the oil and get a fresh batch in there.
Went to Moores Automotive in Fairfax, VA and got the Maxima tuned after the 3″ downpipe and smaller PTE 5858 ball bearing turbo .64 A/R.
411WHP & 402FT-LBS @ 9PSI
The old 6266 spooled too late for my setup. Now the thing pulls at 3000rpm where the old one was just starting to spin. Its great on the highway cruising about 60mph in 6th gear and dont even have to downshift, I just step on the gas and the turbo starts to whistle and then its off. It feel like downshifting to 4th in an all motor maxima…..yes it pulls that hard. The only thing Im going to have to do is get new coilovers. The Teins are really not good at aggressive driving….things bounce too much and are all over the place when full spool hits. Otherwise they are REALLY comfortable…great for all motor people. Keep in mind I have harder springs for the Teins too….maybe D2s next…who knows.
I put a graph comparing my old 6266 dyno vs the new 5858 dyno:
Picked up lots of area under the curve like I wanted and the torque curve got flattened out a bit as well. You’ll notice at 3000rpm I picked up 40ft-lbs and 24WHP ALONE!!! This FEEL GREAT!!!
Redid the whole car……a Mix of Plastidip and Carbon Fiber Vinyl wrap:
Was getting misfires when I was on the dyno at Moore Automotive and was recommended I replace the PTE injectors…so I finally got around to it. Car was running like ***, lean and hicupping…stayed out of boost (as much as I could)
Replaced my GARGAGE 650cc Precision injectors with Fuel Injector Clinic 650cc injectors. The shop that installed my PTE injectors cut my stock conector off and wired in the PTE connector so I had to cut those off and solder in the connector for the FIC injectors…PITA!
FIC LEFT and PTE BURNT *** GARBAGE ON THE RIGHT
Full Mod List / Specs:
- Custom Turbo Setup w/ PTE 5858 Dual BB Turbo
- Turbosmart Hypergate 45 Wastegate
- Turbosmart Supersonic BOV
- TurboXS Manual Boost Controller
- 3″ Downpipe,
- Cattman 3″ Catback Exhaust
- Haltech 350z Platinum Pro
- Haltech Dual Channel WB Controller
- SFR IM w/ 09 Maxima TB
- Mishimoto Radiator
- 2-12″ radiator slim fans
- Flexible stainless steel radiator hoses
my4dsc: 381
Member Credit: EddyMaxx
Installed R35 GTR vents today. They are fully functional and provide some additional airflow through the engine bay. You can find these on eBay between $85 to $180. Some are better made than others. Some are just carbon fiber overlay while others are full carbon fiber.
Took us about 2-3 hours. We measured very carefully. I used a harbor freight cutting wheel.The vents clear the HR Motor Manifold and my strut bar. I love the way everything came out. Should also get some better cooling now. Need to align the passenger side a little more but will do that once I’m ready to silicone them in.
Now my6thgen and 7thgen have R35 GTR ventsWill be doing my 4thgen next.
my4dsc: 76
Member Credit: EddyMaxx
Decided to install my Evo 9 Brembo BBK today on my 2002 Nissan Maxima. It cost me around $500 bucks to do the full setup. The brackets fit great and have full rotor-to-pad coverage.
Part’s Used:
- 2003-2007 Mitsubishi Evolution 8 / 9 Brembo Front Brake Calipers
- Part Number for OEM Left/Driver Front: 4605A435
- Part Number for OEM Right/Passenger Front: 4605A436
- CGR Adapters (Paid $140)
- Make sure to use Loctite on all bolts. I personally used Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242.
- Important Note: Original kit came with 60MM bolts. I ended up needed 65MM bolts for proper fitment and tightening.
- 12.6″ 6thgen Nissan Maxima Drilled/Slotted Rotors
- Goodridge Stainless Steel Brake Lines
- Project Mu NS 400 (PMU-PS4F906)
CGR Adapter Brackets
Brembo Calipers – 4 Piston BBK
Project Mu NS 400 Brake Pads
Showing how the brackets are supposed to be installed.
You need to ensure the bleeder valve sit upwards. Some people make the mistake of putting them on the wrong sides.
Additional Member Photo’s
You can see the better rotor-to-pad coverage on the Brembo’s versus the 300ZX BBK. Much better fitment.
my4dsc: 339
Member Credit: EddyMaxx (Thanks to Alejandro Filpo for the Relay Recommendation)
Initially, I was going to do resistors on my 2002 5thgen Maxima which has the infamous hyper blinking turn signals. This happened after installing LED bulbs on Taillights. I personally do not like the hyper flash and wanted to get rid of it. Alejandro recommended an easier approach which simply just required changing the Flasher Relay. This is way better than the resistors (as you know resistors can get very hot).
Very simple plug-n-play swap!
eBay Description: 3-Pin Car Flasher Relay LED Light Turn Signal Hyper Flash CF13 JL-02 EP34 NEW
Price: $3-5 Bucks
Order Link: https://ebay.us/XSdG4Q
You basically just need to swap the one below labeled “Turn Signal Flasher” with the one from above and you are all set.
my4dsc: 425
Member Credit: DennisMik
This mod provides power all the time, with doors open or closed. I have this irritating habit of forgetting to close the rear windows and I didn’t like having to put the key in the ignition and turn it on in order to operate the power windows. So I decided to undo years of governmental nanny state-ism and have the windows work the way I want them to, not the way some bureaucrat wants them to.
Turns out this is an easy mod to do. You don’t have to take anything apart if you don’t want to. I did in order to get better photos. In stock form, Nissan uses a relay to supply the power to the window motors. This relay is energized when the ignition switch is in the “ON” position. So all you need to do is to remove the relay and add a jumper in the relay socket.
The Power Window Relay is located on the right side of the in-dash fuse panel. Remove the access cover to the fuses and you will see the blue Power Window relay on the right side. Look on the lower corner of the relay and you see the locking tab that you must push in on in order to remove the relay.
With the lower dash panel removed (you don’t need to do this), you can see that there is all kinds of room. FYI- the black thing to the right of the relay is the turn signal/hazard flasher unit.
Power Window relay removed.
You need to make a jumper wire. You want to use at least 14 gauge wire because this wire will carry a higher amount of amperage that most other wires in the car. 12 gauge wire is what Nissan has in the wire harness and if you intend to operate all the windows simultaneously, then you better use 12 gauge wire for this jumper. And if you do use 12 gauge wire, make sure the spade connectors can accept that size wire. I cut a piece of wire to be 1 1/4 inch long. I stripped 3/16 of an inch of insulation off of each end and soldered a 1/4 inch wide male spade lug connector onto each end.
Bend the jumper into a U shape and plug into the lower half of the relay socket.
my4dsc: 179
Member Credit: EddyMaxx
The instructions below will help you program new key fob’s on your 2002-2003 Nissan Maxima. A few days ago, I thought I left my keys in the car. It didn’t turn out to be the case but I decided to key an extra key and some additional key fobs. The key fobs are super cheap on eBay. I purchased two of them for under $8 bucks shipped. Always good to have an extra set because you never know.
This only works if you have the original key fob and key. If you lost your keys, then that is a different story that will require additional work.
Programming Instructions
Before entering programming mode, you need to have all of the key fobs/transmitters that you will be using on your car (including the original FOB). Once you program the transmitter, all previous codes will be erased from the memory. The other transmitters will not be functional until you program the transmitters again.
- Close and lock all doors with the driver’s side power lock switch located on the driver’s door panel.
- Insert key into the ignition (DON’T TURN) and remove it from the ignition key cylinder at least 6 times within 10 seconds (this will need to be done at approximately one second intervals). You may need to insert and remove the key up to 10 or 12 times until your hazard lamps flash. PLEASE NOTE: Withdraw key completely from ignition cylinder each time. If this procedure is performed too fast or too slow the system will not enter programming mode.
- Insert key into ignition and turn to the ACC position.
- Within 5 seconds, push the LOCK button on the keyless remote. Your hazard lamps will flash. PLEASE NOTE: Do not press the button on the remote more than one time or the programming will not be successful.
- If there are any remaining remotes (including working ones), Unlock then Lock all doors using the switch on the driver’s door panel. Within 5 seconds of locking and unlocking doors press the LOCK button on the next remote. Your hazard lamps will flash. Repeat this step for each remote (including any working remotes).
- When all remotes have been programmed turn the key to the OFF position, remove keys from the ignition, unlock doors using the driver’s side power lock/unlock switch and open the driver side door. Test all remotes.
Video:
my4dsc: 148