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my5thgen 00-03

Category

Member Credit: EddyMaxx

Adding some helpful information regarding this code P1706. I ran into this issue and decided to document my findings for anyone needing to troubleshoot this.

P1706 Nissan DTC: Park Neutral Position Switch Circuit Malfunction

The Nissan park neutral position sensor / PNP switch is designed to detect when the shift lever is in neutral or park. If the shift lever is in another gear, the park neutral position switch will not allow electricity to pass from the battery to the starter. A P1706 OBDII code indicates that there is a malfunction with either the switch itself or the wiring connected to it.

Symptoms

  • Inability to start the engine
  • Engine will start with the shift lever is in neutral but not Park
  • Engine will start in any gear

Causes

  • Damaged wiring or connectors
  • Failed park neutral position switch

How to Diagnose the Code?

The best way to diagnose a P1706 OBD2 trouble code is to carefully inspect the wiring and connectors leading from the switch itself to the main wiring harness. If no issues are found, the switch itself will have to be tested and possibly replaced.

Automatic Transmission Switch

6-Speed Manual Transmission (2003 Nissan Maxima)

Factory Service Manual Sections (Engine Control EC Section)

my4dsc: 50

Member Credit: EddyMaxx (Thanks to Alejandro Filpo for the Relay Recommendation)

Initially, I was going to do resistors on my 2002 5thgen Maxima which has the infamous hyper blinking turn signals. This happened after installing LED bulbs on Taillights. I personally do not like the hyper flash and wanted to get rid of it. Alejandro recommended an easier approach which simply just required changing the Flasher Relay. This is way better than the resistors (as you know resistors can get very hot).

Very simple plug-n-play swap!

eBay Description: 3-Pin Car Flasher Relay LED Light Turn Signal Hyper Flash CF13 JL-02 EP34 NEW
Price: $3-5 Bucks
Order Link: https://ebay.us/XSdG4Q

You basically just need to swap the one below labeled “Turn Signal Flasher” with the one from above and you are all set.

my4dsc: 286

Member Credit: DennisMik

This mod provides power all the time, with doors open or closed. I have this irritating habit of forgetting to close the rear windows and I didn’t like having to put the key in the ignition and turn it on in order to operate the power windows. So I decided to undo years of governmental nanny state-ism and have the windows work the way I want them to, not the way some bureaucrat wants them to.

Turns out this is an easy mod to do. You don’t have to take anything apart if you don’t want to. I did in order to get better photos. In stock form, Nissan uses a relay to supply the power to the window motors. This relay is energized when the ignition switch is in the “ON” position. So all you need to do is to remove the relay and add a jumper in the relay socket.

The Power Window Relay is located on the right side of the in-dash fuse panel. Remove the access cover to the fuses and you will see the blue Power Window relay on the right side. Look on the lower corner of the relay and you see the locking tab that you must push in on in order to remove the relay.

With the lower dash panel removed (you don’t need to do this), you can see that there is all kinds of room. FYI- the black thing to the right of the relay is the turn signal/hazard flasher unit.

Power Window relay removed.

You need to make a jumper wire. You want to use at least 14 gauge wire because this wire will carry a higher amount of amperage that most other wires in the car. 12 gauge wire is what Nissan has in the wire harness and if you intend to operate all the windows simultaneously, then you better use 12 gauge wire for this jumper. And if you do use 12 gauge wire, make sure the spade connectors can accept that size wire. I cut a piece of wire to be 1 1/4 inch long. I stripped 3/16 of an inch of insulation off of each end and soldered a 1/4 inch wide male spade lug connector onto each end.

Bend the jumper into a U shape and plug into the lower half of the relay socket.

my4dsc: 71

Member Credit: EddyMaxx

The instructions below will help you program new key fob’s on your 2002-2003 Nissan Maxima. A few days ago, I thought I left my keys in the car. It didn’t turn out to be the case but I decided to key an extra key and some additional key fobs. The key fobs are super cheap on eBay. I purchased two of them for under $8 bucks shipped. Always good to have an extra set because you never know.

This only works if you have the original key fob and key. If you lost your keys, then that is a different story that will require additional work.

Programming Instructions

Before entering programming mode, you need to have all of the key fobs/transmitters that you will be using on your car (including the original FOB). Once you program the transmitter, all previous codes will be erased from the memory. The other transmitters will not be functional until you program the transmitters again.

  1. Close and lock all doors with the driver’s side power lock switch located on the driver’s door panel.
  2. Insert key into the ignition (DON’T TURN) and remove it from the ignition key cylinder at least 6 times within 10 seconds (this will need to be done at approximately one second intervals). You may need to insert and remove the key up to 10 or 12 times until your hazard lamps flash. PLEASE NOTE: Withdraw key completely from ignition cylinder each time. If this procedure is performed too fast or too slow the system will not enter programming mode.
  3. Insert key into ignition and turn to the ACC position.
  4. Within 5 seconds, push the LOCK button on the keyless remote. Your hazard lamps will flash. PLEASE NOTE: Do not press the button on the remote more than one time or the programming will not be successful.
  5. If there are any remaining remotes (including working ones), Unlock then Lock all doors using the switch on the driver’s door panel. Within 5 seconds of locking and unlocking doors press the LOCK button on the next remote. Your hazard lamps will flash. Repeat this step for each remote (including any working remotes).
  6. When all remotes have been programmed turn the key to the OFF position, remove keys from the ignition, unlock doors using the driver’s side power lock/unlock switch and open the driver side door. Test all remotes.

Video:

my4dsc: 107

Member Credit: EddyMaxx

A while back I noticed a fellow member (Jose Vargas) with some EVO brackets on his 5thgen Maxima. I decided to do the same to my car. These are lightweight aluminum mounts that fit great and are great OEM replacements. They also come with OEM rubber inserts and will not rust. They have them in other colors too. I personally chose RED.

Product Name (search eBay):
Torque Solution Radiator Mount Bracket w/ Insert Red Mitsubishi Evolution 7/8/9
Part #: 
TS-EV-008i
Price: $17.71 (you need two of them so it will be $35.42)

eBay Link: https://ebay.us/RhuIlF

 

my4dsc: 235

Member Credit: xlack

This is from a G37 but the procedure pretty much identical to Nissan Maximas.

OEM Oil Pan completely stripped of silicon residue:

JWT Oil Pan Spacer:

New silicon applied:

Brush used to remove silicon remains:

This bolt has to be bended in order for the oil pan spacer to fit. (guy from 370z forum had it cut off, but is not necessary):

Bolt is knocked back into position:

my4dsc: 78

Member Credits: Voltage Drop (NISformance) for the original installation diagram. Juan Gonzalez for the Plug Photos.

All you need to do is re-pin the wires. No need to extend them.

Re-pinning Instructions

Backside of completed M34 Wiring

Backside of completed M32 Wiring

Additional Photo’s

 

 

my4dsc: 292

Owner: Shawn “Syko” Gordon

Year: 2002
Model: Maxima
Color: Black
Transmission: Manual 6 Speed HLSD
Trim: GLE

Full Mod List / Specs:

  • VQ35DE Motor
  • R.I.P.P V5 Supercharger Kit (Running @ 7psi)
  • 2009 Maxima Idler Pulley for Supercharger
  • Cattman Headers
  • Cattman Gen 2 exhaust with upgraded resonator
  • 6-Speed with 4.133 FD Gearing
  • Helical Limited-Slip Differential
  • Short Throw Shifter – STS Mod
  • 350z Nismo Clutch
  • 6th gen Brake kit
  • Front & Rear Stillen lip
  • Viper 5901 Alarm
  • Fully Loaded with every option except factory Navigation
  • 350z Dead Pedal
  • Anniversary Edition Drilled Metal Pedals
  • Anniversary Edition Maxima Door Sills
  • Heated Seats/Mirrors/Steering Wheel
  • Titanium Stitching
  • Titanium Console
  • Titanium Tinted Gauges
  • Paradox Systems Chrome Gauge Rings
  • Blackout Headlights Mod – 6500k HID Bulbs
  • 6500K HID Foglight Kit
  • Smoked Front Side markers
  • LED installed in all of interior including cluster and key cylinder ring
  • Built Motor Specs
    • Wiseco 11.0:1 CR Pistons (.020 over stock)
    • Eagle Rods w/ARP Rod Bolts
    • Brian Crower 264/264 Cams
    • VQ35HR Valvesprings and Retainers
    • Double Shimmed Valvespring Seats
    • 5 Angle Serdi Valve job
    • Ported and Polished Heads
    • Heads Decked
    • New 6th Gen F/R Valve Covers
    • Fully Blueprint and Balance
    • Polished and Balanced Crank Independently
    • Balance as Rotating Assembly to 10k RPMs
    • OEM Main Crank Bearings
    • ACL Race Rod Bearings
    • HR Headbolts
    • HR Headgaskets
    • 350z Thermostat in Maxima Housing – Extra Shimmed
    • Energy Suspension Polyurethane Motor Mounts
    • Energy Suspension Polyurethane Control Arm Bushings
    • Energy Suspension Polyurethane Shifter Bushings
    • Energy Suspension Polyurethane Front Lower Subframe Bushings
    • Energy Suspension Polyurethane Front Swaybar Bushings

 

my4dsc: 375

Member Credit: Shift_Ice

Tools:

  • Dremel with a cutting tool
  • Oven
  • Small flathead screwdriver
  • Torx bit (on some models) – otherwise metric socket (size unknown)
  • Old towels
  • Channel locks
  • Purchase clear lens from Home Depot or frosted lens from Tap Plastics (contact info below):
    Tap Plastics Inc
    4538 Auburn Bl
    Sacramento, CA 95814

Clear Leans from Tap Plastics
1. Remove headlight from the vehicle. Take care not to scratch the fender with the metal mounting pin.

2. Remove bulbs and ballast from headlight. The ballast has a yellow and orange sticker in the picture below. It is attached with 3 screws.

To remove the HID bulb, rotate the plastic cover counterclockwise. Then squeeze the 2 metal pins toward each other. Take care not to touch the bulb!

3. Bake headlight in the oven on cookie sheet for 15-20 minutes at 200 – 250 degrees. The scary part:

4. Remove headlight from the oven with old towels (will be very hot)

5. Remove amber lens carefully. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pop lens out of tabs. Silver tabs are visible below.

6. Use the amber lens to trace onto the clear lens

7. Cut out the clear lens with Dremel. Lens from Tap Plastics comes pre-cut and drops right into place.

8. Install clear lens taking care to ensure that it fits snug under the tabs. If the lens is a little loose, apply 90-second epoxy lightly around the edge to assure a tight fit

9. Reassemble headlight as best you can and return headlight to oven

10. Bake for 15-20 minutes at 200 – 250 degrees

11. Remove from oven with old towels (will be very hot)

12. Use channel locks to assure a tight seal

13. Reinstall headlight

14. To produce a clear effect and retain amber blinking, I suggest using a chrome blinker bulb:

I purchased mine from autolumination. Alternatively, you can create your own by spraying the stock bulb with a light misting of silver paint.

15. Enjoy. The finished product:

my4dsc: 95