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my5thgen 00-03

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Member Credit: vastmax

I acquired some genuine TDM Nissan mirrors a while ago with the convex glass, sidemarkers, puddle lights, heated, and of course, folding functionality.

I ran my wires from the door to inside the car through a small grommet that is located right beside where the bundled door wires go in. You can access this from the wheel well if you take the wheel liner off. When wiring the folding function to the switch itself run the (+) and (-) to the switch for one of the mirrors, then tap those wires for the second mirror. The (+) wire goes in the blank 2nd spot and the (-) wire goes to the last hole on the bottom row of the molex. Also, I noticed while looking through the FSM that I believe that all the heaters need to work is the heated mirror relay under the hood. I’m 90% sure all the wiring comes in all Maxima’s. It’s not cold enough here yet top try it out, but someone up north can let me know if that’s the case.

This is how I wired mine and the mirrors worked the first time and still continue to work.

For reference, this is your SECU under the driverpanel

Pin 1: Turn Signal + (BK/R)
Pin 2: Turn Signal – (BK/W)
Pin 3: Puddle Light – (BK)
Pin 4: Puddle Light + (BK/Y)

In addition to the harness:
Power folding: + Pink, – Orange
Heater is Green and Blue gray but I can’t remember which is + or –

my4dsc: 82

If you are reading this article, you are very likely trying to resolve P0420/P0430 without having to spend a lot of money on the issue. Most of the time, the codes are due to a bad clogged catalytic converter or bad O2 sensors. Before replacing the O2 sensor, be sure to do the spacer fix modification first because O2 sensors are not cheap.

There aren’t usually any drivability issues associated with these codes. For most people, the first sign that anything is wrong at all is the check engine light. Below are the typical check engine lights you would normally get:

  • P0420 NISSAN – Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1
  • P0430 NISSAN – Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 2

The Fix

You can eliminate the codes by using a spark plug non-fouler which tricks your engine computer to think that everything is working fine. This simple trick will pull the O2 sensor away from the exhaust flow and the computer will think the Catalytic converter is working properly. This will work if you remove the catalytic converter or have a bad cat. It’s very simple and cheap to do. Below is a video on how to perform the fix:

You can also buy them pre-made on eBay if you do not want to drill.

 

Make Your Own Spacers/Foulers

You can buy these non-fouler spacers at your local parts store. You can get them from Advanced Auto or Autozone for about $7-8 bucks.

You now need to drill out 1 of the non-foulers using a 1/2″ drill bit. When finished this is what it will look like.

O2 Sensor inserted in the modified non-fouler

Second, unmodified non-fouler now installed on modified non-fouler, then threaded into the pipe

Reference Photos

Below are photos of the spacers installed and 100% working on Nissan Maximas by generation. After installing the spacers, the CEL codes went away.

5thgen Nissan Maxima

6thgen Nissan Maxima

7thgen Nissan Maxima

my4dsc: 113

Owner: Shawn “Syko” Gordon

Year: 2002
Model: Maxima
Color: Black
Engine: Gen2 VQ35DE
Transmission: Manual 6 Speed HSLD
Trim: GLE

Update December 2019 – Car Upgraded with Gen2 VQ35DE and Vortech V2 Supercharger

Full Mod List / Specs:

  • Gen2 VQ35DE Motor
  • R.I.P.P V2 Supercharger Kit
  • 2009 Maxima Idler Pulley for Supercharger
  • Cattman Headers
  • HLSD 6-Speed with 4.133 FD Gearing
  • Exedy Stage 2 Clutch
  • Custom 3″ Exhaust
  • Short Throw Shifter – STS Mod
  • 300ZX Big Brake Kit
  • Front & Rear Stillen Lip

my4dsc: 811

If you are DIY person and love working on your Nissan Maxima, then this tool is a MUST HAVE! When you go to the Nissan dealer, the person working on your car typically uses a tool called a Nissan Consult. The Nissan Consult that the dealer uses costs thousand of dollars and is only available to dealers. By using the Nissan DataScan software, a laptop and a generic VAG COM OBDII adapter you can achieve just about the same level of on-board diagnosis that $5,000 Nissan Consult provides. This software allows you to:

  • Check CEL codes
  • Check/Reset ABS and SRS-Airbag Faults
  • Check/Reset TCM Codes
  • Adjust timing
  • Perform Idle Air Relearn
  • Reset ECU learned settings
  • Data-log
  • Program keys
  • Check Emissions Readiness Monitors
  • Active Test temporary modify some of the engine parameters for testing purposes
  • And Much much more….

The software itself costs $55.00 and generic cable costs around $7.00-$8.00. 

Software License Purchase Link: Nissan DataScan II

Software Download Links:

OBD2 Cable eBay Link: KKL 409 VAG COM OBD2 Cable

You can find the cables on eBay between $6.00-$8.00 shipped. Search for the following keywords on eBay and you will find it: “KKL 409.1 VAG-COM OBD2 USB Cable

Below are all the functions it provides:

ECU Part Number

This is the main window of the NDSII software which shows the ECM Nissan Identification part number. Basic and Advance Functions can be selected by clicking on the buttons, using the shortcut keys (F1 – F11) or using the Menu bar. Most functions except Data Replay and Log Analyser are disabled until communication with the ECU is successfully established.

Progress bar at the bottom indicates communication between the ECU and PC. If the bar is not moving there is no data being received from the ECU.

Data Display Settings

This window is used to assign parameters to be displayed by the Data Display function. Only parameters that are supported by the currently connected ECU are available for selection. Gauges are counted from left to right, top to bottom. Multiple gauges can monitor the same parameter.

Data Logging ECM

Selected parameters can be logged to a file. This function can also be accessed from the Data Display window. The data log file can be analysed using the Data Replay or Log Analyser functions.

Self Diagnostics ECM

Self Diagnostics function allows users to read and reset engine ECU error codes.

Idle Adjustment

Idle Adjustment function allows users to adjust the base idle RPM. The setting is saved to the ECU and it does not reset with engine restart.

Timing Adjustment

Timing Adjustment function allows users to adjust the base ignition timing. The setting is saved to the ECU and it does not reset with engine restart.

Active Test ECM

Active Test allows users to temporary modify some of the engine parameters for testing purposes. They return to their original values when a function is stopped, PC disconnected or engine restarted.

Note: It is possible to damage the engine if the A/F Base % functions is used to excessively modify fuel delivery. Likewise the engine may overheat if the Engine Temperature is set to low for a long period of time. Do not use those functions if you are not sure how they will effect your engine.

Work Support

Work Support functions allow users to perform some of the advance service procedures. Those procedures may need to be performed after replacement parts are installed.

Clear Self Learn – clears the A/F Base SL map learned by the ECU.

Idle Air Volume Learn – is an operation to learn the fully closed position of the throttle valve.

Program Immobiliser Key – allows to register the Nissan transponder keys with the Immobiliser Note: The immobiliser security PIN CODE needs to be known. Initially all registered keys will be erased and all keys will need to be reregistered.

Cylinder Power Test

Cylinder Power Test function can be used to identify cylinder that is under performing. This function allows shutting down individual cylinders. If all of the cylinders are producing the same amount of power the engine RPMs will drop exactly the same amount on each cylinder that is cancelled.

Log Analyser is used to review log files previously generated by with Data Logging function. Graphs are drawn by selecting boxes next to parameter value. Graph colours match the parameter value colours.

Speed Test

Speed Test is a unique function for measuring car’s acceleration performance. Predefined or user specific tests can be used. Due to the low resolution of Nissan speed sensors, measurements should only be used as a guide and not a true reflection of car’s performance.

Note: This function should not be used while driving on public roads.

Address Watch

Address Watch function is used for monitor specific ECU memory addresses. By monitoring a memory address extra information can be retrieved that is not normally available using Consult II protocol. A knock sensor reading can be obtain using this method if knock sensor memory address is known.

Wideband O2 sensor

Nissan DataScan II also supports wideband Air/Fuel ratio meters from Innovate Motorsports. A second serial port is used to connect to the controller and collect data.

The data from the wideband meter can be displayed or logged in conjunction with other engine parameters using the Data Logging function.

ECU Part Number BCM

The BCM tab shows the BCM Nissan Identification part number. Basic Functions can be selected by clicking on the buttons or using the Menu bar. All functions are disabled until communication with the ECU is successfully established.

Progress bar at the bottom indicates data being send between the ECU and PC. If the bar is not moving there is no data being received from the ECU.

Note: Some vehicles may use K line for diagnostics of engine ECU (ECM) but still use DDL1 line for diagnostics of other control modules. This software does not support diagnostics over the DDL1 line. Some of those models are: X-trail, Maxima, Patrol.

Self Diagnostics BCM

Self Diagnostics function allows users to read and reset BCM error codes.

Active Test BCM

Active Test allows users to temporally activate some of the functions of the BCM. This is usually used to manually test the functionality of the systems controlled by the BCM.

Note: Functions not supported by the BCM are disabled (grayed out).

ECU Part Number TCM

The TCM tab shows the TCM Nissan Identification part number. Basic Functions can be selected by clicking on the buttons or using the Menu bar. Most functions except Data Replay and Log Analyser are disabled until communication with the ECU is successfully established.

Progress bar at the bottom indicates data being send between the ECU and PC. If the bar is not moving there is no data being received from the ECU.

Note: Some vehicles may use K line for diagnostics of engine ECU (ECM) but still use DDL1 line for diagnostics of other control modules. This software does not support diagnostics over the DDL1 line. Some of those models are: X-trail, Maxima, Patrol.

Data Logging TCM

Selected parameters can be logged to a file. This function can also be accessed from the Data Display window so the data can be logged while it is displayed. The data log file can be analysed using the Data Replay or Data Analyser functions.

Self Diagnostics TCM

Self Diagnostics function allows users to read and reset TCM error codes.

ECU Part Number ABS

The ABS tab shows the ABS Nissan Identification part number. Basic Functions can be selected by clicking on the buttons or using the Menu bar. Most functions except Data Replay and Log Analyser are disabled until communication with the ECU is successfully established.

Progress bar at the bottom indicates data being send between the ECU and PC. If the bar is not moving there is no data being received from the ECU.

Note: Some vehicles may use K line for diagnostics of engine ECU (ECM) but still use DDL1 line for diagnostics of other control modules. This software does not support diagnostics over the DDL1 line. Some of those models are: X-trail, Maxima, Patrol.

Data Logging ABS

Selected parameters can be logged to a file. This function can also be accessed from the Data Display window so the data can be logged while it is displayed. The data log file can be analysed using the Data Replay or Data Analyser functions.

Self Diagnostics ABS

Self Diagnostics function allows users to read and reset ABS error codes.

Work Support ABS

Work Support functions allow users to perform advance service procedures. Those procedures may need to be performed after replacing parts.

Steering Angle Sensor Reset – After removing/installing or replacing VDC/TCS/ABS control unit, steering angle sensor, steering components, suspension components, and tires, or after adjusting wheel alignment, make sure to adjust neutral position of steering angle sensor before running vehicle.

ECU Part Number SRS

The SRS tab shows the SRS Nissan Identification part number. Basic Functions can be selected by clicking on the buttons or using the Menu bar. All functions are disabled until communication with the ECU is successfully established.

Progress bar at the bottom indicates data being send between the ECU and PC. If the bar is not moving there is no data being received from the ECU.

Note: Some vehicles may use K line for diagnostics of engine ECU (ECM) but still use DDL1 line for diagnostics of other control modules. This software does not support diagnostics over the DDL1 line. Some of those models are: X-trail, Maxima, Patrol.

Self Diagnostics SRS

Self Diagnostics function allows users to read and reset SRS error codes.

Note: Recorded faults are historical and can not be cleared.

Work Support

Work Support functions allow users to perform the advance service procedures. Those procedures may need to be performed after replacement parts are installed.

Program Immobiliser Key – allows to register the Nissan transponder keys with the Immobiliser Note: The immobiliser security PIN CODE needs to be known. Initially all registered keys will be erased and all keys will need to be reregistered.

OBDII Self Diagnostics

OBDII Self Diagnostics function allows users to read and reset ECU error codes.

OBDII Monitor Status

OBDII Monitor Status shows the current status of various monitoring systems used by the car’s engine management system.

OBDII Log Analyser

Log Analyser is used to review log files previously generated by with Data Logging function. Graphs are drawn by selecting boxes next to parameter value. Graph colours match the parameter value colours.

OBDII Fuel System Satus

OBDII Fuel System Status can be used to check if the car’s fuel system is running in Closed Loop mode.

Fuel systems do not normally refer to injector banks. They are intended to represent completely different fuel systems that can independently enter and exit closed loop fuel. Banks of injectors on a V-engine are generally not independent and share the same closed-loop enablement criteria.

OBDII Data Logging

Selected OBDII parameters can be logged to a file. The data log file can then be analysed using the Log Analyser function.

Due to the slow nature of OBDII protocol it’s recommended to log only the required parameters.

my4dsc: 10788

Member Credit: Ronny Para

This article will help you install Audi R8 Coil Packs on your VQ30DE. For those that don’t know, Audi coilpacks are stronger and better than Nissan coilpacks. They add better mpg and more HP/TQ. It works on bone stock vehicles or highly modified vehicles.

Nissan Coilpack only has 1 coil. Audi has 2 coils as you can see in the picture below. By having 2 coils it doubles the spark output and can easily handle spark blow out that turbocharged vehicles suffer from. Because it’s outer exterior has a metal body it can dissipate heat ALOT quicker than Nissan rubber which helps with heat cycling. It’s also cheaper than OEM Nissan Coilpacks.

Front Valve Cover

The Audi R8 coil packs fit perfect on the front valve cover and do not require any modification. It will work fine even if you have NWP spacers installed on the front.

Rear Valve Cover

The rear valve cover requires some modification for a flush fit to ensure the R8 plug makes full contact with the spark plug.  Since the coil packs now go further in…. they clear the manifold as well which requires no additional spacers.

Audi R8 Coil Pack Advantages:

  • 50,000 volts compared to Nissans/Infiniti 30,000 volts.
    • Some measure it with Kv so Nissans coils put out 21Kv while VW coils put out 30Kv
  • Quicker Heat dissipation. (Because of its metal body construction it can quickly dissipate heat. Nissan OEM body is made out of rubber that isolates heat instead of disperses it.)
  • More complete burn of the fuel mixture compared to OEM Nissan which equals to better MPG.
  • Idle Stability Improved
  • NO CEL (Check Engine Lights)
  • BEST PART ABOUT THEM IS THEY ARE CHEAPER $$$ than Nissan OEM yet they are much better.
  • Looks 10000% Cooler than OEM Coilpacks

Now the coil packs price varies due to different name brands. They range from $132-$216 for a V6 engine. Below is the link of the coil packs below so you can see the prices and brands. Doesn’t matter which brand you use, I’ve tested them all and they all make the same exact power.

Order Link: https://www.nedautoparts.com/search?q=Audi+coilpack

Adapters & Wiring

You can purchase the adapters directly from Rico who is on the Facebook groups.

You can also use o2 plugs from a 02/03 Maxima to make the adapters for the plug. Just have to file down the alignment guide on the outside of the blue connector.

Of you can splice in directly (Courtesy of Jerome Fenwick)

my4dsc: 265

Member Credits: Voltage Drop (NISformance) for the original installation diagram. Juan Gonzalez for the Plug Photos.

All you need to do is re-pin the wires. No need to extend them.

Re-pinning Instructions

Backside of completed M34 Wiring

Backside of completed M32 Wiring

LED Color Swap (By Eddy)

The Infiniti i35 has a single light source which makes it easy to swap to an LED strip. Below is what is commonly used since it allows you change the color as you want. I went with blue but good to have options. I tapped into an ACC power source for the lightening.

Order Link: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-module-strings/rgb-led-module-linear-sign-module-w-3-smd-leds/1779/?fbclid=IwAR3hVwmM8F2BbU6cFZxDSYM7jNjFEZtTa_vm_AP76hrhakAO4ZgOF3NoSrE

Additional Photo’s

 

 

my4dsc: 762

Member Credit: 6spd_Hayes

Disclaimer: If you attempt any of what you see from my post, you do so at your own risk. The following is a summary of my experience.

The Car: 2002 Maxima SE
Transmission: 6 speed, HLSD, RS6F51A
Mileage: 174,000 mi. (approx.)
Situation: November 1st, 2014. I jumped in the Maxima, running late to a funeral in Tennessee. Pushed clutch to floor and started it. I could not get gear shifter out of third gear no matter how hard I tried. Something was obviously broken in the transmission.

After a lot of online research, I purchased a 29,066 mile 6 speed, HLSD transmission from a 2006 Nissan Sentra Spec-V (p/n RS6F51H) from http://car-part.com/. Kindly gentlemen cargo shipped it from a junkyard in Arkansas to my door step in North Alabama for $XXX (will update when I remember it). The following were the only differences in the two transmissions: (1) bellhousings were different, (2) final drive ratio were different (3.812 vs 4.133), (3) Maxima – 1st & 2nd gear dual synchro, SpecV – 1st gear dual synchro, 2nd gear triple synchro.

Sentra SpecV Transmission As Received:

Work Setup:

  • Set each transmission on cardboard covered work bench side by side (cardboard to protect mating surfaces on transmission and soak up any grease/oil/fluids)
  • For fasteners, blow up and print out FSM pages and glue to cardboard. Poke fasteners through on board where you take them out of transmission
  • Take off parts from each transmission at same time, label in Ziploc bag
  • For large parts, label and place in its own cardboard box
  • Clean as you go (scrape off gasket material, use acetone/cloth) to clean
  • Follow both factory service manuals for breakdown/buildup

Maxima

SpecV

Maxima Speedo Sensor Block-off Plate

SpecV Speedo Sensor

Maxima Transaxel Case Stamp

SpecV Transaxel Case Stamp

Maxima

SpecV

Maxima Control Assembly, Sensors, and Case Bolts Removed

SpecV Control Assembly, Sensors, and Case Bolts Removed

Maxima Transaxel Case Removed (at this point forward, they both look the same

Maxima Spread Spring Debris and Detail

Based on the pictures below, it appears the spread spring in the 3rd-4th synchronizer broke and lodged itself in to prevent the sliding action between gears.

Maxima – Reverse Tilt Mechanism Removed

Maxima – Re-test fitting reverse tilt mechanism (to make sure I understood its reassembly)

Maxima – Reverse shift fork and rod

Maxima – Reverse Gear Stack

Maxima – Re-test fit reverse shift fork

Maxima – Shifter bracket Detail

Maxima – Gear Stacks and Differential

SpecV – Gear Stacks and Differential

Maxima – Input, Main, & Reverse Shafts and Axels

Maxima – Final Drive & HLSD

SpecV – Final Drive and HLSD

SpecV – Reverse Gear Set

Cleaned Maxima Bellhousing (Used acetone and cloth)

Cleaned Differential Side of Bellhousing

Maxima Final Drive and HLSD from SpecV

SpecV Reverse Gear Set

SpecV Gear Stacks and Maxima Final Drive in Bellhousing

Maxima Final Drive Meshed with SpecV Mainshaft

SpecV Mainshaft Meshed with SpecV Input Shaft

SpecV Input Shaft Meshed with SpecV Reverse Gear Set

Detail SpecV Main and Input Shaft

SpecV 5th/6th Shifter Fork with Maxima 5th/6th Shifter Fork Rod Detail

The SpecV 5th/6th Shifter Fork Rod had a pretty significant burr on it, and wouldn’t actuate properly. So I used the Maxima version.

SpecV Check Ball and Spacer for 5th/6th Rod

SpecV 1st through 4th Shifter Fork with SpecV Rod Detail

SpecV 1st/2nd Shifter Fork Detail

SpecV Reverse Bracket Detail

SpecV Reverse Shifter Fork Detail

SpecV Reverse Tilt Mechanism Assembly

SpecV Check Ball and Spacer for Reverse Rod Mechanism

Fully Assembled SpecV Guts and Transaxel Case on Maxima Bellhousing

SpecV Shifting Mechanism

Fully Assembled Transmission on Hoist

my4dsc: 245

Member Credit: TunerMax

I know some of you were interested in wiring your Map light(s) to illuminate when the Dome turned on, and some of you already have. Either way, I thought I’d let you know what I’ve figured out.

The best way I see to do it properly:

Tap into the ground wire (Dome light to SECU [Smart Entrance Control Unit]) Terminal #31 between the SECU and Dome light and install a relay there. I’d do this AT the SECU, most room to work. You want to hook this into the trigger side of the relay.

Here is the location of the SECU:

Then run a 2 Wire cord (preferrably one line with a tracer) from there, up to the Map light (up the Left A pillar and over).

The switch Wiring in the Map light seems to differ. I found 2 set ups.

1. On my car it’s a Single Map light, and it is wired with power to one side of the switch, then when you press the switch power flows through the light and to ground. (standard switch set-up)

2. It appears on some models, with 2 map lights, power is supplied to the light bulbs, and the switches are installed on the ground side (makes the ground connection).

Hooking up the wiring for the first one is easier, all you have to do is attatch (solder) one wire to the bulb side (see wiring diagram), and one wire to the live (+) side. Then down at your relay, connect the wire you connected to live (+) to the relay, and connect the wire you connected to the bulb side on the other end.

Here is my amazing Wiring diagram of the new set-up:

The second way, you have to change the switch type for the Map light.
+ must be triggered by the push switch (before the bulb). That change is pretty straight forward, nothing real complicated, if there are any of you that don’t understand how to do it, post a good picture of your Map lights (unit removed, picture of the back side wiring) and I’ll show you what to do.

So with this set up, we have No diodes, everything operates normally, no extra bulbs. Only thing that changes, is the Map light comes on when the dome light illuminates

I thought I’d let you all know how to do it, in case you were scratching your heads on it, I know some of you have done different things to get this function, some pretty creative, some a little chinsy, anyways…

I know initially you’d just think, jump a wire from the Dome light, and if you don’t have a sunroof, I’d consider it.

I have a sunroof though so this is the best way I can think of (to have it operate properly without installing extra lights and non-sense)

Pull out the Map Light, and unscrew the Sunglass holder. Also pop the cover off the Left A-Pillar. This pic shows all 3 removed, and my wire fish run through already:

Now run your wire fish from the corner of the headliner on the A-Pillar side into the sunglass holder hole. You can probably use a coat hanger or just push the wire through, it’s pretty easy going, everything is framed in the corner.

Hook your 2wire cord onto the wire fish, and feed it through toward the A-Pillar

Now you want to run the wire fish from the fuse panel area (by pedals) up to the A-Pillar base (top of dash). Hook up again and pull through. This pic is with the wire already run.

Now the easy part Locate your SECU, remove the harness connectors (3) and move the wiring so you can work with it easier. And Use my Guide in the OP to locate the proper terminal. It`s a process of elimination to find the harness you want, mine was the middle one, I would assume all years will be the same. I know the terminal designation is the same.

Here`s the wire we want.

Now cut it.

That`s right, only genuine Nissan Parts Any standard SPST relay will work.

I kind of cheated with this wiring cause I ran out of female spades and I wanted to get it done. So the Constant power wire (has red insulation on it in pic) needs to be doubled up (split wire, add 2 female spade connectors). You`ll see what I did in the second pic

Above is everything hooked up except the Ground (terminal wire you cut). I Forgot a pic of the Crimp on the Terminal wire. You just want to join them together into a Female spade connector, you can see it pretty clearly in the pic below (red wire). Please ignore the crudity of the wiring install, it’s temporary, I’ll be installing a SPDT Relay to run my LED handle lighting, at that point I’ll be re-doing the wiring and mounting the Relay

Now, wire in that MAP Light. Hook up the Constant Positive wire (with tracer) to the Constant Positive connection at the Switch

And then hook up the intermittent Positive wire (no tracer) to the output side of the switch (to bulb). I didn`t post a pic of this cause I couldn`t get a good enough picture of it. Plug in the SECU harnesses, the MAP light and DOME light should come on (if you hooked everything up correctly, and the door is open)

If everything works, install all components and make sure all wiring, etc is secure. And enjoy your new modifcation every time you open your door or unlock your car!

Lights off:

Unlock button pressed, lights illuminate:

Door opened:

Just so you know, you can`t shut off your MAP light while the door is open, I don`t know why you`d want to though. It still functions normally when the doors are closed. Another great thing about this mod is, you can shut off the Dome light and have only the MAP light illuminate if you want to (kids in the back sleeping, but you still need light when the door opens) Enjoy!

my4dsc: 55

Member Credit: TunerMax

I had a free SMD LED board from HIDextra and decided to install some under hood lighting, something they should have done at Nissan. Thought I’d share this with you guys I’m sure there are quite a few of you that would be very interested in doing this.

Tools Needed:

  1. LED Board, preferably 3×3 or larger SMD type with 3M tape backing I recommend installing a few, or using standard incandecent lighting (I’ll be changing to that set up) It’s up to you, wiring is the same.
  2. About 10-15′ of 2wire cord. 18AWG is fine
  3. 2 – 18AWG ‘butt’ connectors
  4. 1 – 3/16″ shrink tube
  5. Solder and electrical tape

Locate your security system hood switch

This switch is GROUND triggered. Unplug it, you want to tap into the Security circuit side, that’s the yellow wire.
Strip it or cut it, up to you, but you want to tap into this wire.

Run your wire, I mounted my LED board next to the A/C tag, you can put multiple lights (I’ll definitely add a few later, or change out to incandescent lighting) or put them where ever you want. I’m just showing you where I chose though.

Run it under the hood insulation, over to the hinge and around your strut tower mount, over to the fuse panel next to the battery, and finally to the yellow wire for the hood switch. Do a good job of this or you’ll just blow a fuse and have to re-do it anyway. Make sure the wire isn’t going to rub anywhere and make sure it’s well secured.

Strip back the 2 wire cord, separating the 2 wires from each other. Strip back one wire until it’s separated at the fuse panel. I didn’t take pics of this, I apologize, you can just bare the wire and install it on the ‘out’ side of a 10A fuse, or you can do it properly and remove the fuse panel, and solder into the ‘out’ terminal of a 10A fuse port.

Either way make sure you fuse it, you’ll be running live power constantly to the hood light(s), and that wire moves every time the hood opens.

Now hook up the other wire to the yellow wire on the hood switch.

If you have labeled 2 wire (tracer line on one wire) then you can just hook up the LED + to + and – to -. If you’re unsure, bare the wires and test them, as soon as it’s hooked up correctly the LED’s will come on.

Double check that they shut off when the switch is depressed:

Now secure all wiring, loom, and shrink wrap connections, tidy up and enjoy the light when you open that hood!!

Start to finish this took me about 20mins in the dark. Expect a bit more if you’re adding more lights. A Cheap, quick and very usefull upgrade!

And for those of you concerned, NO this will not in any way affect your security system.

my4dsc: 82