Category

my5thgen 00-03

Category

Owner: Jerry Herrera
Instagram: @5.5genjry

Year: 2003
Model: Maxima
Color: White
Transmission: 6-Speed Manual
Trim: GLE

Mod List:

  • 2003 6-Speed HLSD Manual Swapped Max
  • GLE with full SE interior swap
  • Nisformance Stock Re-flashed ECU
  • Desmond Motorsports Catch Can
  • Unorthodox Racing Aluminum Underdrive/Crank Pulley
  • Stillen Front Mount Strut Bar
  • Custom 3” SRI with AEM 3” Dry Flow Air Filter
  • OBX Catback Exhaust
  • Muffler Delete
  • Resonator Delete
  • OBX Headers
  • I35 Cluster Swap
  • Stillen Front Lip
  • G-plus 19-Row AN10 Oil Cooler
  • Glow Shift Sandwich Adapter Plate
  • 350z Bumper Air Duct Custom Fitted to 2003 Maxima
  • Energy Suspension Shifter Cable Bushings
  • V1R Street Shift Springs
  • NWP BOP
  • NWP Thermal Gasket Spacers
  • VIS Racing Carbon Fiber Hood
  • VMS Grounding Kit
  • Godspeed Mono Coilovers
  • 1” Hubcentric Wheel Spacers
  • Ionic Dynamics Rear Sunvisor
  • G35 18×8 Stock Wheels

Owner: David Colaire

Year: 2001
Model: Maxima
Color: Satin Blue Pearl
Transmission: Manual 5-Speed to 6-Speed Swap
Trim: SE

Part 1 Feature: https://www.my4dsc.com/david-colaires-2001-6-speed-hr-swapped-5thgen-maxima/

Videos:

Full Mod List / Specs:

  • 2013 Altima HR 10.3:1 Motor
  • Rev-up Cams Re-timed for Boost
  • Rev-up Oil Pump
  • Maxima HR ‘C’ manifold
  • 70MM Pathfinder Throttle Body
  • 440cc injectors
  • Aeromotive Adjustable FPR
  • Custom Return Fuel Rail Setup
  • VHR37 Spark Plugs (1-Step Colder HR)
  • Vortech V1 S-Trim Supercharger
  • V2 Supercharger Plate with Metal Idler Pulleys
  • 3.125″ 10psi Pulley
  • Blitz JDM BOV
  • 4.1FD HLSD 6-Speed Transmission Swap
  • Spec Stage 2Plus Clutch
  • 93 Pump Fuel
  • Red Lion Motor Mounts

Community Member Credit: Josh Emory

Major Mod List:

  • Built Gen2 VQ35DE Engine (Wiesco Pistons 8:8:1, Manley Rods, Stock Heads)
  • Dynosty Pro-seal Headgasket
  • S366 Billet Wheel Turbo
  • 525 Fuel Pump
  • 1050ID Injectors with Full Return Fuel System
  • ARP L19 Head Studs
  • Full E85

551WHP / 440TQ @18PSI (Mustang Dyno)

 

Our 350z Fuel Rails are machined from billet T6061 Aluminum stock. The rail has a larger bore diameter than stock, allowing fuel flow to increase 350% more over stock (as seen above). The rail comes clear anodized to help protect against the elements. The rail is tapped to accept dash 6 fittings. Our rails are unique in the fact that you can either use your stock injectors or use taller aftermarket bosch style injectors to upgrade your fuel system. The rail comes with four dash 6 O-ring to dash 6 AN fittings, aluminum spacers to allow use with either style injectors, and stainless button head hardware.

Important Note: These fuel rails fit the 2002-2008 VQ35DE Nissan Maxima. Additionally, 350z injectors fit on Maxima rail with no issue. A 350z rail is not needed if just changing the injectors.

Price: $175.00
Order Link: http://store.rossmachineracing.com/350Z-G35-Fuel-Rails-w-fittings_p_127.html

Order Link: https://www.2j-racing.com
Price: $99.99

2JR introduces our lightweight race pulley for the VQ35 Maxima and Infiniti I35, 01-04 years. Based on a far better design than the OBX pulley with a 75% weight savings over OEM, this is a must have mod for your VQ. Gain upwards to 9WHP / 12WTQ. Offered ONLY in anodized BLACK, with 2JR Logo.

2002-2006 Maxima Belt Size

  • Gates belt part number is K060408 for Alternator/AC
  • Gates belt part number is K040300 for Power Steering

2007-2008 Maxima Belt Size

  • Gates belt part number is K060388 for Alternator/AC
  • Gates belt part number is K040300 for Power Steering

 

Community Member Credit: Jose Vargas

I35 Cluster swap in the process, first ima swap out the long led tub it has to light up gauges and replace it with 4 RGB led strips with the module so I can remotely change to different colors quickly if I want to. Everything PNP like OEM. I’ll post links to what I used to make it perfect…

Has 4 pnp leds that can easily be swapped and for warning indicators you need to unsolder old leds and put in new ones 14 is needed

For the Auto guys you can swap out the shift indicator leds……..3mm for warning indicators,so since the cover and holes for leds is big enough im a swap out the 3mm to 5mm to have it brighter

Without OEM led tube

With oem led tube that lights up entire cluster, so as you see you can run strips

You need 4 strips of these RGB leds

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-module-strings/rgb-led-modules-linear-modules-w-3-smd-leds-22-lumens/1779/4253

Female……Pigtail connector to make it pnp to module

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/bar-strip-connectors/lc4-locking-connector-pigtail-power-cable/1972/4547

Module with remote to change to multiple color

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/rgb-led-controllers/rgb-led-controller-w-lc4-connector-wireless-rf-remote-w-dynamic-color-changing-modes-5-amps-channel/3050/6263

Male Power connector to make it pnp, run ground to chassis and power wire with mini add a circuit with 15A fuse to ACC in fuse box

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/bar-strip-connectors/cps-f2st-female-standard-barrel-connector-to-screw-terminal-adapter/856/2133

I35 cluster 80% done installed the leds strips. Just waiting for module and pigtail to make it pnp……

Swapped out the 5 pnp leds

5mm to the left soldered in compared to the small 3mm to the top right

5mm vs 3mm

Removed SLIP led so it will not turn on LED213.

Cluster done

Had to dissamble the cluster to put black tape over the AUTO indicators

5MM led clearance

Pnp connector all wired up and ready. Nice and clean…Mr. DoITRightEveyTime.

Cluster is done and installed……mission was a success…..Repinned the plugs and rewrapped harness

1 done 2 plugs left

Wiring mess

3 plugs all wrapped up

I35 Cluster & Prosport EVO series allows you to match up 4 different colors to cluster..

Credit: 02whitemaximase

The OBX headers (02-03 Maxima, equal length y-pipe) have been out of stock for at least a year. For engine performance mods I have the Megan OE-RS Catback installed along with berk/Apexi intake and 5 piece spacers. I have compiled all of the information needed to get these headers installed correctly.

My first photo is of new OEM exhaust gaskets. Look at the part numbers and order those if you plan on doing a header install on a 3.5. Although you could get away with reusing the original gaskets, I would recommend spending 35 bucks for peace of mind.

The front (closest to the radiator) header measurements are as follows:

Runner length from where it meets the flange to where all three join cylinder 2= ~10″, 4= ~9″ 6= ~12″

Prices and part numbers:

  • OEM exhaust header gaskets $13 each 14035-4W015
  • OEM cat gasket $8 20692-65J00
  • Spark plug anti-fouler $5 each pack made by HELP 42009, 42002
  • MAF cleaner $7
  • Energy Suspension (ES) subframe bushings $25 7.1116G
  • OBX 02-03 headers $350-380 shipped

The purpose of this thread is to display the newest batch of OBX headers. Exhibit how the install goes and post up some before and after pictures and videos.

Installation Notes

My install went nearly flawlessly minus one heat shield bolt being seized and a secondary o2 sensor not coming out of the old converter. I know these headers are made overseas where quality control is not great. With that being said I think no two sets of headers are exactly the same which means that you may need to trim something during your install. I came to a couple of millimeters from having to trim my front motor mount bracket and my rear bracket went on no problem although it was very close. Probably about 2-3 mm from touching and my front bracket is literally 1mm from touching the header. My flex pipe has about 1/4′ space from touching the subframe.

As you can see one of the primaries comes very very close to the front motor mount bracket but it did not require trimming. Although some may be uncomfortable with how close they are, it is no problem. The mount and header will NOT move even though mine are basically touching it does not matter.

The y-pipe comes about 1/4 of an inch from touching the sub-frame cross member. Again this is not a problem. I have driven it like this enough to not experience any noise and the way I see it the motor really only moves front to back so this tight space does not come into play.

In order for the front primary to have enough wire slack to reach the new header bung, you will have to cut the tape holding the group of wires that travels directly over the middle coil from the larger harness that runs along the top of the valve cover. The tape was holding both harnesses together to about right in the middle of the top middle of the valve cover. Easy fix takes one second.

As you can see below the far left plug has to be unclipped from the coolant pipe in order for that primary to reach.

The rear primary wire has to be extended too. From all of my research people here have been saying to cut the primary either at the wire harness and add some wire to lengthen it or to cut the actual o2 wire and extend those by adding wire. Problem is that it can mess with the voltages. The wire is stainless steel which is nearly impossible for an amateur to solder correctly. My method requires NO WIRE CUTTING!!! You need to remove the wire harness cover pictures below and simply separate the o2 wires from the rest of the wires. First, you need to separate it from the green plug wires, then you need to slit the right side of the main harness that fees into the back of the plastic box. PLEASE TAKE YOUR TIME!!! Be very careful to cut precisely and slowly. Doing this will give you enough slack to reach the rear primary o2 sensor.

This next picture shows exactly where my o2 wire is coming out of the main harness. It is wrapped in a black plastic protector. This picture is taken along the firewall from the driver side, so the top of the picture is the passenger side, the bottom is the driver’s side and as you can see the top left is the upper part of that black wire harness box. The fattest harness coming from the box is what you need to slit the side of and separate the 02 wire from. My o2 wire is running out of that harness down toward the middle of the picture.

The following picture is of one of my secondary sensors. I have the antifouler setup and as of about 75 miles no CEL. This secondary is the one with a green plug and red wire cover. The wire running above it is actually the other secondary which is the blue plug with a white wire cover. Secondaries have different length wires so I recommend this configuration.

Additional Info

As you can now see the y pipe outlet is not quite at 2.5″ but pretty damn close

My new wideband bung on the y-pipe.

The relocated rear header primary bung and plugged original location

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