So you get your code scanner and it says something like, “Bank 1 Sensor 2“. So where exactly are these banks located?
Bank 1 means that the sensor is closest to the Firewall.
Bank 2 means that the sensor is closest to the Radiator.
Yup, it’s that simple.
my4dsc: 169
Member Credit: Jason Sadler
You need 10mm socket, metal drill bit set with a good drill, self tapping screws, 2 hinges, 2 latches, and a friend to help you out when you get tired of drilling or holding the trunk lid up on your back…and yes you need the winnie the ooh blanket to protect your car when you lay the trunk lid down and metal shavings go everywhere.
The stock mounting of the trunk lid, 2 bolts on each side that need to remove that hold up the trunk lid. I bought the hinge from Home Depot for $5.49 and had it bent at a hardware store after taking my trunk lid off and finding out what angles were needed. I drilled 3 completely new holes for the hinge and used self tapping screws attaching to the trunk lid, same spot as the stock mounting piece.
This is where it get inventive and tricky, I used a simple locking latch from Home Depot for $2.49 that is used to slide lock fences or what have you, I drilled a hole in the arms of the trunk lid support and the sliding latch will slide the locking pin into the actual arm of the trunk lid support so that it will sit up normally. If you unlock, or unlatch the sliding latch so that it does not slide into the arm, you will let the trunk lid hinge down and sit “flip flop”..
This is also where the other side of the hinge gets bolted onto the mounting arm of the trunk lid. I used three screws for each and you can tell how well the hinge is secured on there. 4 holes drilled to secure the latch onto the trunk lid and then a bigger hole onto the mounting arm for the trunk lid where the latch slides into, you can also see the hinge fully mounted on the car.
And my friends, that is all there is to it really, when you want the trunk to sit flip flop slide the latch out of the mounting arm and flip flop it.. just remember, you cant close the trunk when it is flip flopped.
Pictures of the trunk flip flopped.
Depending on how far the hinge you buy swings around, your trunk may sit differently than mine does.. nothing extreme, but it just may be at less of an angle then mine. It is all about the bends you make, and it would be impossible to write out how I made the angles.. it’s something you need to just look at and see.
If you do not mount everything correctly you may have issues closing the trunk because it will not line up exactly as it did when it was stock.. you can try and remount everything again or just finagle it into place when you close it or open it like i do.. mine is off a little bit to the left, but it doesn’t bother me to shift it back and forth when I close the trunk, it sits the same when it is closed…
That is basically everything.. enjoy!
Additional Photos:
my4dsc: 55
Member Credit: EddyMaxx
I was shopping around for quality fans for my VQ35 Supercharged Nissan Maxima’s (6thgen and 4thgen). The dual Mishimoto fans were not cutting it anymore. And honestly, these were really no different than the 14″ generic ones on eBay. I did some research and found a company called SPAL. A fellow member (Javon B.) vouched for these fans confirmed they work very well. All 12-volt puller models, these Extreme Performance Electric Fans offer the most flow and fan area.
My car would overheat at times when going on long cruises with the air conditioner on. I no longer have any cooling issues at all. This fan is very powerful with 2,024 CFM and does the job with just single 16″ Fan. I’m not even using a shroud.
Make sure you use a good relay (at least 40 AMP) before connecting directly to your OEM harness. I personally used a SPAL relay. More info below:
Fan Part Number: 30102049
Fan Price: Between $100.00 -$130.00
Relay Price: It’s about $33 bucks. The part number for it is SPAL-FRH. It’s a 40-amp relay kit. Highly recommended.
Specs:
Old 14″ Mishimoto Fans. These were 1300 CFM but certainly didn’t feel like it.
Comparison of my 16″ SPAL Fan to Mishimoto 14″ Fan
Mounted on `Mishimoto Radiator. It’s literally a perfect fit.
Dimensions
Photo of the SPAL-FRH Relay (40AMP):
If you don’t use a good relay like the one above, this will happen (Photo Courtesy of Javon Bennet)
my4dsc: 99
Owner: Jeremy Merriman
Year: 2003
Model: Maxima
Color: Gray Metallic (KV3 )
Transmission: Manual 6 Speed (AdminBuilt)
Trim: GLE
What motivated you to MOD your Maxima?
Bought the car, loved the style and just had a desire to go fast. Underdog car, no one expects to be drug by a Maxima that’s just rolling out. – Jeremy Merriman
Street Tuned 100% on the old setup (stock head, head bolts, factory 366 turbo, 1000cc injectors, stock cams)
my4dsc: 720
Member Credit: ViperVadim
The purpose of this thread is to compare the available headers for the 95-03 VQ3x Maximas. I’ve managed to get together the following different headers in the same room and do this comparison.
I was able to pull it off thanks to:
There are the two types of Stock VQ front headers:
The California front header is a system that incorporates a Huge pre-cat (cat converter) doing it’s job for the environment.
The pre-cat up close is big, and the stock headers are restrictive to the exhaust gasses flowing through.
The front headers kinda look similar, until you look inside them.
The fed spec has a round exit hole and has superior internal flow to the Cali-spec, the shape of the openning on the cali spec is irregular, and more restrictive.
The bends and rough edges inside the manifold all hinder exhaust flow, creating backpressure.
Furthermore the outlet after the pre-cat on the cali spec is much smaller than the fed, with an oxygen sensor placed directly in the exhaust path restricting even more flow.
Tthe rear VQ header is unchanged from 95-01.(EGR is closed off with a Large Bolt on all 01’s) But in 02+ ALL rear headers also received a pre-cat similar to the california front header in 99.
Here is a pic of 02+ rear header pre-cat, used from BLAKKILLA.GTR, thanks Man
Now everybody knows what all maximas come with from the factory. As you can see from the pictures the Stock headers are designed very cost effectively, they comply with auto standards and compromise heavily between good Fuel Economy and power output. (Very Bad for HorsePower)
Before we discuss Aftermarket Headers we need to discuss:
EGR: Which cars have EGR?
This is the EGR guide tube used on all 95-00.
This is how the EGR bolts into the REAR header – and why you need the EGR bung on the rear header.
GASKETS
Aftermarket Headers will come with Aftermarket Gaskets (read as: POS Gaskets).
The difference between POS and OEM
DO NOT USE the supplied POS Gaskets! They cannot stand up to the heat of the headers. The gaskets are prone to cracking. OEM gaskets are multi-layered Steel and provide the best seal.
OEM Multilayer FTW!
These are the very first headers designed and mass produced for the maxima, it has went trough many names, but not so many changes, the latest distributor is XS Power.
This is the only system that can be used with a Budget/Cattman/Warpspeed y-pipe, meaning if you already have a (Fed Spec) aftermarket y-pipe, the headers will bolt right up to it. I still prefer to use the Supplied XS Power Y-pipe (for ideal fitment)
Cost $325
They are derived from the stock header design except they have a nice flow improvement. every runner is separate, and merges into a 3-1 collector. They have much better flow over stock.
This is the flow improvement, you can see the 3-1 collector.
The rear header has longer runners than the front with EGR bung as well
Fresh from vipervadim’s paint shop
However when comparing them to the header system from OBX you can clearly see the difference between long and short runners.
With short runners, peak power is delivered earlier in the powerband. low-end and midrange is emphasized. (at top-end the headers are choking the motor)
with longer runners, peak power is delivered later in the rpm range. Midrange and Top-end power are affected better since the engine has less backpressure and less restriction for exhaust gasses.
Stats:
Header:
A. Runner Inlet (oval) 1 3/4W x 1 1/4H
B. Runner Diameter (outer) – 1 5/8in
C. Runner Length – Front (5, 5 1/2, 10 1/2) Rear (7, 8, 8 1/2) in
D. 3-1 Collector Diameter (inner) – 2 1/8 in
Y-Pipe
E. Y-Pipe Diameter (outer) – 2 1/8 -> 2 3/8in.
F. Collector Diameter (inner) – 2 1/4
G. Not Equal Length W/ EGR
OBX
OBX is not new to Maxima headers, they used to have this (below) header system for the 95-99 Maxima, 3-piece design, however they had a big fitment problem: the front header was right in the way of the front motor mount bracket (needed to be cut), and the rear header joined the y-pipe in a 90 degree bend (bad exhaust flow).
I WOULD NOT Advise buying it because of Bad Fitment.
OBX has however smartened up from ^^those times^^ and completely redesigned their New Maxima Header System (fits 95-03, same VQ block) and this is what they offer:
Cost – $325
They have improved from the original header design, redesigning the whole system. the new design is now 2-piece. It incorporates long runners in the front header, with the mount issue solved (similar to hotshots design), and a distinctly improved 2-1 collector, eliminating the previous 90-degree bend. the rear header (with EGR bung) is integrated into the y-pipe as one piece
This is how the system looks put together.
Notice there are 4 o2 bungs for the front and rear oxygen sensors (ideal for 99+ cali spec), there is also 2 small flex sections instead of a single.
I am very impressed with the OBX, they officially put themselves back on the map with their new redesigned Maxima headers. for the price and the end-result, this is the ideal header system for a ‘budget minded’ maxima enthusiast. I think the SSAuto/XS Power have met their downfall, because the OBX are in a similar price range offering a better designed system similar to (cattman and hotshot). I still have yet to find out how well they fit or how well they perform.
However the new OBX has it’s one drawback. unlike the Cattman and Hotshot and even the SSauto/XS Power Y-pipes, the inside diameter of the y-pipe outlet is only 2 1/16in, (outside diameter 2 1/8) smaller than stock.
If you can replace the flex section and the outlet piece with 2.5in piping more gains will be had in the midrange and top-end.
Stats:
Header:
A. Runner Inlet (oval) 1 3/4W x 1 1/4H
B. Runner Diameter (outer) – 1 5/8in
C. Runner Length – Front (9 1/2, 11, 14 1/2) Rear (9 1/2, 10 3/4, 12) in
D. 3-1 Collector Diameter (inner) – 2 1/16 in
Y-Pipe
E. Y-Pipe Diameter (outer) – 2 1/8 -> 2 1/8in.
F. Collector Diameter (inner) – 2 1/16
G. Not Equal Length, W/ EGR
Hotshot is Out Of Business, so the Headers are no longer produced. There are some resellers who still have the last remaining stock, and of course the people who bought/installed them.
Cost $639
Hotshot headers are on par with Cattman. they look very similar and the construction is very good. According to my measurements the Hotshots have the longest header runners and longer equal length runners on the y-pipe. They also have well machined inlet and oulets.
The only problem with Hotshots: In the Front header, the O2 bung needs to be welded in another location. The original location puts it too close to the A/C compressor. Also depending on what year maxima you have, you will need to weld in an EGR bung to the rear header, since the Hotshots do not have EGR.
Headers put together
Fresh from vipervadim’s paint shop
Stats:
Header:
A. Runner Inlet (oval) 1 7/8W x 1 5/16H
B. Runner Diameter (outer) – 1 5/8in
C. Runner Length – Front (15, 15 1/2, 20) Rear (12 1/2, 14, 15 1/4) in
D. 3-1 Collector Diameter (inner) – 2in
Y-Pipe
E. Y-Pipe Diameter (outer) – 2 1/8 -> 2 1/2in.
F. Collector Diameter (inner) – 2 7/16
G. Equal Length (23 1/2in each) W/ NO EGR
The Hotshots like the Cattman headers have equal length runners (notice the round bend at the rear header), unlike the SSAuto and OBX.
Equal length pipes help the sound and they provide less backpressure.
Price is somewhere around $850+ ShippedNewest ‘Gen2’ Version of the legendary Cattman Headers. Cattman switched to a 3-piece design like the Hotshots from their 4-piece ‘Gen1’ header design. Cattman is a full integrated system, the most expensive headers for the maxima, they are also made wit the most time and precision. there are no big bends in the Cattman piping, every piece is mandrel bent slightly then welded together to form a larger bend. Header runners and Y-pipe runners too.
Cattman does it right: O2 bung in correct location, there are NO issue with the Cattmans. (you get what you pay for?)
Put together
Fresh from vipervadim’s paint shop
Header Comparison:
Here are pictures of the various headers compared to one another. This is the Group shot after Painting.
So here we go: Many people have been asking me about this:
Cattman + Hotshot, just how different are they?First the y-pipes, notice how similar they are the only real difference is in the shape of the bend, the hotshot has a gentler bend, but the cattman is more steeper.
Now onto the headers, you can really see how longer the hotshot runners are compared to Cattman. the Cattman has great 3-1 collectors.
Hotshot and OBX
Cattman and OBX
Cattman, Hotshot, and OBX the 3 top contenders.
This concludes my headers comparison.
You Decide — depending on your price range/preference. Thank You to everybody who helped out.
my4dsc: 272
Member Credit: Jaime J Dajer
This is a one-of-a-kind 5.5 Nissan Maxima with a RIPP Mods supercharger fabricated to fit the 3.5 engine. It is a R.I.P.P v5 and it came off a Mitsubishi Eclipse GT V6 an also using water meth injection.
Initially, it made 339.7whp & 306.3 fl-lbs torque on 440 injectors at 98%, ignition retarded timing set at +11 , 8 psi and a 2.6 pulley.
Photo of how it looks installed on an Mitsubishi Eclipse.
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my4dsc: 367
Member Credit: Marvin Ramos
This is the first official 5.5 Gen Maxima with a 2016 Nissan Maxima Steering Wheel. All of the buttons and steering wheel controls work just like it came from the factory.
More info and details to be posted once finished.
How it looks on 2016 Nissan Maxima
my4dsc: 290
Member Credit: EddyMaxx
This morning I went to change the serpentine belt on my 1998 4thgen Nissan Maxima. While it’s a simple task, it turned out the “Adjustment Bolt” was also seized and slightly bent. It definitely needed to be replaced. The good news is that you can buy just the “Adjustment Bolt” and/or “Adjustment Nut” by itself. You don’t need to buy the entire assembly. If those are your only two broken parts like me case, then all you need to order (or get at a junkyard) are these two part numbers:
Adjust Bolt – Nissan (11948-31U0A) – $15.33 (Courtesy Nissan)
Adjust Bolt Nut – Nissan (11934-31U0B) – $6.76 (Courtesy Nissan)
Photo Credit: The Wizard
my4dsc: 109
Owner: Marcos Eduardo Chavez Santini aka Chavez
Year: 2002
Model: Maxima
Color: Majestic Blue Pearl (BW9)
Transmission: Manual 6-Speed
Trim: SE
my4dsc: 672
Member Credit: Child_uv_KoRn Bad
Miles are unknown on the motor. I’m gonna say….very low miles. It blew oil vapor out of the crank case for a couple thousand miles, so it’s safe to say she was basically brand new.
I cleaned and window welded the old mounts. I forgot to take pics, but you know how cracked up and falling apart they are at this age. I used the 3M tube and shot it into any cracks then filled up the vacant spots and added a layer on the outsides. Obviously, burning/cutting them up and filling is the best way. I’m cheap and lazy.
I opted for a 4″ grinder with a cutting wheel to do the PS modding (Darren used hack saw, iirc). You can lop off most the bottom ear, then cut slits in both of them and break out the pieces with a chisel. Test fit the pump and you’ll see where it hits the block. Grind off a little more there and you can really make it easy to get the belt off. Grinder makes a lot of mess. Make sure the motor is sealed up good enough (I washed it with a hose afterwards).
UD PS pulley is in the mail. So, ignore this stupid, ugly thing.
DOUBLE CORRECTION Pulleys looked aligned originally, but it’s clearly misaligned. I thought alternator was off compared to the AC/crank pulley, but i was wrong. The compressor is like 4mm off from the crank/alternator on this particular engine (no one elses is like this apparently). It makes the belt squeal when it heats up b/c it’s rubbing on the alty pulley AND rubbing sideways accross tensioner pulley (tried to align the atly between crank and compressor, didn’t work). I resorted to using tiny washers (in retrospect, making a half moon would work) to shim the tensioner pulley to the appropriate angle towards the alty pulley and aligned it with the compressor. I have no idea why my engine is different, but this worked. The belt runs “straight” across the tensioner pulley. I believe Daren just had to shim the alty with a couple washers.
I didn’t have the luxury of the new bracket, so I took a junk piece of metal and made my own connecting to the old bracket. Here’s what it looks like before molesting scrap metal.
Being the lazy *** that I am, I decided to leave the new coolant pipes up top (connector mounts/brackets be damned). The hose already on them works great to bypass the TB coolant asshatery from Nissan.
For the lower pipes, I kept the originals – Por 15’d them and kept the oil cooler thingy, which works out great for the MASSIVE pl-14619 filter. I recommend replacing the oil cooler hoses. Also, replace the oil cooler O ring (it will leak later).
I went kinda crazy on the tensioner. I stacked four 3/4″ lock washers and trimmed the top of the tensioner nut off to gain more clearance. I did it before fully testing LOL. I don’t think it was necessary…. It looks like I needed more washers than Darren, since I have an UDP. I also ground down the back of the pulley bolt some b/c I couldn’t freely slide it up and down.
The new nylon hose is smaller, so I used two different adapters and screwed them together (with permanent thread lock lol). I couldn’t find a barbed coupler with different diameters at the ****ty hardware stores.
I am using a 7th gen IM and TB on this engine. I want to retain as much power as possible. No EVT will be the only difference. Three pullies being lightweight/UDP should easily offset the loss of EVT.
Is it me or are arp bolts kinda sexy?
retarding cam wheels didn’t work, lovely
edit: Fixed after Darren sent me a pic.
I underestimated how much larger this pulley would be since it’s underdriving LOL. This thing must be 6″ .The sentras stock pulley causes cavitation at high rpm, so it’s even more oversized. It’s not that big of a deal, I just cut off that little arm on the bracket.
What I did forget is that they don’t use a two belt system, so it has two more ribs. 32″ belt works perfect and alignment is with the belt in the middle.
So, yeah, SR20 pulley is definitely a better idea for the non-rigging crew 
You’ll notice a piece missing haha. The pulley is 5.5″.
USE THIS OPPORTUNITY TO REPLACE POWER STEERING HOSE AS IT’S JUST ONE LESS THING TO REPLACE LATER
Mmmm, new friction plate
PCV? Nonsense crap!
Extended IVT wires
quick and dirty recap (can I do anything right lol) of what is not in my thread:
These are needed from old engine:
Before loom
After loom
I couldn’t find it actually posted anywhere where it loaded, but google had it
Alright folks, here ya go! Nice NiCopp clutch line!
Late pic for funsies. I forgot the balancer and chains LOL. I strapped the motor in and out and pulled the tranny up with them
my4dsc: 125