We’ve been honored to follow Dom’s Fast and Furious project since the beginning on our my4thgen Facebook group. Dom would post daily updates and even inquire with the community for any questions and/or feedback. Dom is just a cool dude all-around and that makes his builds much more respected. It was an awesome project that turned out great in the short time span of just 21 months. This was also great for the Nissan Maxima community to continue to inspire and motivate others on their own builds/projects.
Dom has already replicated two other cars from “The Fast and the Furious” (Brian’s Mitsubishi Eclipse and Jesse’s Volkswagen Jetta). The 99′ Maxima was built according to the movie’s specs (except for a few minor details) with the help of Craig Lieberman, who owned the original movie car. Dom Dub creates these vehicles by working in collaboration with Craig Lieberman, the technical director for the first three movies of the franchise.
I just wanted to post some findings that I found when I did my ECU swap from a 99 to a 95 in my Cali spec emissions car.
Now, I used whlimi’s excellent writeup. It was followed by the letter.
One of the codes I got was the P1400 or EGRC Solenoid Valve. This was obvious since the EGR design in the 99 Cali is different from previous models.
As I was looking through the FSM of the 99 as well as some of the threads regarding the code P1400, I came across the Swirl Control Solenoid valve. It caught my attention because it looked very similar to the EGRC solenoid valve that the 95 ECU uses.
Here is a pic of the Swirl Control Valve
Here is the pic of the EGRC solenoid valve.
They look similar, right? I even looked at the wiring setup for both. I noticed that they are both in the fuse block number (17) and that they use the same type of connector (circled in red). As I was reading through the operation, diagnosis, etc, they both read the battery voltage and they both work on a vacuum design.
So this lead me to move the light blue/yellow (L/Y) cable on my 99 in pin 71 over to pin 103 in the 95 ECU. The pin on 71 was smaller so I had to use the pin from 117 (fuel pump wire) which was cut in the previous step in the ecu swap. I checked this morning and NO P1400….. I also passed emissions as well…
I was looking to replace the steering wheel on my 1998 4thgen Nissan Maxima. I looked at various options and came across an 8thgen steering wheel that fits perfectly and literally plug-n-play (for the fitment and airbag wiring). It feels and looks much better than the regular 4thgen steering wheel. It’s also a flat-bottom steering wheel.
Overall, I’m very happy with the results. It took me about 45-minutes to get everything set up and installed. The cruise control wiring is optional but does require additional wiring if you want to retain the ones on the 8thgen steering wheel. You also need to ensure you get the steering wheel with regular cruise control, not intelligent cruise control.
This setup uses the existing 4thgen Maxima clock spring. The 8thgen steering fits perfectly with no issues. All you need to do is route the clockspring wires through the center of the wheel.
I recommend going with the 2016-2018 Maxima steering wheel and airbag combination. 2016-2018 have one airbag plug and the late 2018-2021 have two plugs. You need a single airbag plug for the 4thgen.
You cannot use a 2019-2021 airbag on a 2016-2018 steering wheel or vice versa. They have different mounting points. See reference photo in this post.
To retain cruise control, you need to get a steering wheel without intelligent cruise control. If you don’t care about cruise control (or will re-route your existing controls to a different location), then you are good.
The airbag wiring is very easy. I used a spare 6thgen Maxima air plug to make mines plug and play. Check my video in this post to see more info on it. The 4thgen airbag connector has two wires, making it super easy to make a plug-and-play harness. I tested this out and can confirm you don’t get any flashing airbag lights.
For the horn, you use your existing ground wire from the 4thgen steering wheel.
If you want to retain the heated feature, you will need to route the two extra wires. You can wire it up to a separate switch or an OEM timer-based switch.
The 4thgen did not come with steering wheel audio controls. You can make it work with an aftermarket device but will make the project more complex.
100% Working Airbag (No Blinking Airbag Light)
100% Working Horn
100% Working Heated Wheel Function (If wired)
Total Cost: $280.00
Steering Wheel: $100.00
Regular Cruise Control vs Intelligent Cruise Control
2016-2018 vs 2019-2021 Steering Wheel Comparison
Additional Information from FSM:
This info is if you’re interested in working with cruise control. You can also decide to keep your old cruise control buttons and route them elsewhere.
I’ve had this project on the back burner for the better part of the last year and a half, but it is finally done. 75mm TB on an A32 3.5 swap with a functioning IACV.
The TB is an aftermarket 75mm TB produced for a 86-93 Mustang, redrilled and clearance to fit the VQ35DE TB bolt pattern, TB mounted upside down to make throttle cable routing a bit easier.
The throttle Cable bracket was fabbed from a random aluminum bracket I had previously removed from the car and bolted it to the firewall in place of the cruise control unit (for now).
The IACV is a VQ30DE-K IACV Housing with a Pathfinder IACV, mounted onto the TB with an adapter plate I fabbed up.
Throttle Cable Pulley is off of a VQ30DE.
I wasn’t thrilled with the way the original throttle cable return spring felt, so I replaced it with one from a B14. Note, this spring winds in the opposite direction than the VQ30DE throttle cable return spring.
The TPS is a stock 86-93 Mustang TPS wired up to a salvaged A32 TPS connector, making it plug and play.
No cruise control, unfortunately. I am currently looking into another 75mm TB where I can retain an IACV and CC.
As expected throttle response is increased, but low-speed driving requires more attention than before as the throttle only needs to be held open 1-2% to maintain speed at 45mph according to my scangaugeII. Though the twitchiness at low speeds could also be attributed to the throttle cable being mounted to the Chassis, rather than the engine – even though I have all 4 poly engine mounts.
As you know may know, the generic short shifters do not come with a bolt. These use roller bearings (what you find in skateboards) and the factory bolt is too large to pass through.
Now, the important thing with this bolt is that the smooth shaft is the right diameter and length to fit into the roller bearings of the new shifter… The rest can be modified from here… See the pic for a description.
The rounding of the hex part is necessary for the bolt to sit snugly in the factory bracket, see the 2 bolts side by side. I used a dremel type tool to round off the portion of the hex head. It helps to use a new cut off wheel as it’s edges are nice and square and not rounded.
The bolt actually has a round indentation which I used as a guide while grinding.
You’ll need some washers to fill the space as the new shifter is not as wide as the original. Buy a few various thickness washers and see what fits best. Oh, and use a washer before the nut as well.
Important: DO NOT TIGHTEN THE NUT TOO MUCH OR SHIFTING WILL BE STIFF! Just tighten it till it’s snug, then back it off about a 1/2 turn or so. The nylon locking nut will stay in place.
Hope it helps some of the guys who don’t have the cash to buy a brand name shifter with all the complete parts but want it done cheap and right…
Just verified this procedure worked on my 1998 Nissan Maxima after installing a new model steering wheel and airbag.
Open the driver’s side door.
Put the key in the ignition and turn to ON (but don’t start the vehicle)
Within 7 seconds of turning the key to ON, push the driver’s side door switch button at least 5 times. (The DOOR SWITCH is the trigger switch for interior lights located next to your door latch on the car)
The Air Bag light should go solid…give it at least 7 seconds, and it should begin to blink a 3 second, 2 second on/off pattern.
Turn ignition to OFF and remove the key.
Start the vehicle, and wait for the Air Bag light to turn off to verify that it worked.
If you are doing a VQ35DE swap on 3.0 timing, you will need the 3.0 upper oil pan. Both the Automatic and Manual upper oil pans are the same, making it easier to source one. Below are the part numbers that you need. I personally didn’t want to re-use my old one. The time spending cleaning and removing RTV was not worth the hassle to me. Plus I had a brand new 2020 engine and wanted to keep everything as close to new as possible.