my4thgen 95-99


Member Credit: Brad Connor

As many of you may know the radiator core support is a known “weak point” on the A32 chassis. This is an extremely common issue among A32’s from “wet” states. This thread will address a number of key points with this issues

  1. Signs of a bad radiator core support
  2. How to replace said radiator core support
  3. And why you shouldn’t use a cheap radiator core support

I: Let’s start off with spotting a failing core support (NOTE: The images shown are of very, very badly rusted supports)

II: We move on to How To replace the core support and what is the proper parts to be used and where you can purchase them.

To correctly replace the core support, the old unit will need to be cut out and the new unit will need be be bolted and welded in place..This job is definitely not one of the easier things to do an A32 and will likely need to be done by a professional or a fairly knowledgeable DIY mechanic with access to air tools and a welder.

Their are two common methods to to replacing the core support; one is replacing just the lower support (under the radiator) and the other is replacing the entire front core support. Either of these parts can be sourced at your local Nissan dealer or through a reputable online dealer such as Courtesy Nissan Parts.


  • The part number through Courtesy for the entire support is 62500.
  • The part number through Courtesy for the lower support is 62530M.

I’m not going to post all of the info in the following threads … please follow the links for more information

JSutter – How to: Radiator support on life support…. fixed!

95naSTA – Lower Radiator Support Replacement Pics…nt-photos.html

We will move on to why you should buy an OEM core support and not a cheap piece off of ebay or rockauto. This is one of those things that “if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is”…meaning that $50 core support on eBay may sound like a steal of a deal right now, but 3 months down the road when you notice your engine cradle is sitting 3 inches off the ground and you have to pay to do all of this work again, you will wish that you had just spent the extra money to begin with because in the long run an OE piece is going to be the cheaper AND better investment.

I will let the images speak for themselves

my4dsc: 9

Member Credit: schmellyfart

I was thinking about making a solid shifter bushing when I came across this on a Sentra forum. It uses Energy Suspension sway bar bushings. Part # 9.5101
I paid $20 for a set of two. Only downside is that you can’t buy them individually.

The shifts don’t feel as smooth, but they do feel much more solid. I do feel a bit more vibration in the shifter. These impressions are with ES Motor mounts and NWP TQ Link installed. Overall I’m very happy with this mod.

Only one modification is needed. You need to cut off the lip on one side of the bushing, otherwise the support rod won’t fit back in. I also used one of the washers these bushings came with under the bolt on the rear of the shifter bushing.

Some of the pictures suck, I’ll retake some when I get around to it.

Stock bushing vs unmodified ES bushing (I had already installed the modified one)


Energy Suspension:

my4dsc: 20

Member Credit: schmellyfart

Installed a set of the lightweight Millenia wheels today. The main point I want to make is the amount of work needed to get the rear wheels to fit is minimal. I read some old posts making it seem like it was a lot of work and a lot of grinding had to be done.
It was well under a couple minutes of actual sanding/grinding time. I used a Dremel with a sanding drum. The outer lip on the wheel near the centerbore only needs a few thousandths taken off to fit over the rear hub dust caps.

A total of 44lbs lighter then my reinforced (~16lb) rx7 wheels.
205/65R15 on the Millenias 32lb per corner
245/50R16 on the RX7s 43lb per corner

When I had the 225/55R16 on the RX7s, they were about 39-40lbs per corner when brand new.

One thing to note is that the 245s are practially brand new and only have 900 miles on them. And the 205s are maybe 1 or 2/32 from the wear bars. I wasn’t able to weigh the wheels without tires, so there’s a fudge factor of a couple pounds.

And no, I don’t care how bad they look compared to the RX7 wheels. I installed these to see how they affect my fuel economy since I’ve only been getting 25-27mpg with the 3.5.




my4dsc: 19

Member Credit: schmellyfart

I’ve been mulling over a side exit exhaust off and on the past year. I pulled the trigger on Black Friday as 2J-Racing had their 3″ B15 side exit exhaust on sale. Having only eyeballed pictures of it on their website and those that others have posted, I was anticipating that some modification would be required but should be close enough.

First and foremost, weight reduction. My A32 Cattman 3″ catback w/o2 sensor weighed 39 lbs. The 2JR B15 side exit came in at 23 lbs. Unfortunately, I don’t have a complete stock A32 catback to compare.

The only modifications needed to make it fit is to weld or bolt on a longer piece of steel to the included exhaust hanger, an o2 bung will need to be added. Lastly depending on personal preference, a new flange could be sandwiched between the rearmost joint, or you could take a BFH to the exhaust tunnel. YMMV if you still have the heat shields installed.

As it currently sits (with only the modified exhaust hanger) the exit pipe hangs roughly an inch below the pinch weld. The flange spacer and/or a BFH should allow the exit pipe to be tucked up more.

First impressions on sound, well its definitely louder than the Cattman 3″. At a warm idle and maintaining speed is when its the quietest. Light acceleration reminds me of a super loud honda putting around town. WOT reminds me of a raspy G/Z with test pipes. I’ll report back after I’ve put more miles on it.

I should be recording some video of it with a gopro soon. I have a start up vid, but the phone was too close to do much good.


my4dsc: 24

Member Credit: schmellyfart

Greetings everyone, today I will be showing you how to install MKIII MR2 (ZZW30) seats in your A32.

First off, the most important part – weight.
A32 ’97 SE Power Cloth Driver Seat = 44lbs
A32 (unknown year&trim) Manual Cloth Driver Seat = 40lbs
ZZW30 ’02 Spyder Manual Cloth Driver Seat = 34.8lbs

A32 ’97 SE Manual Cloth Passenger Seat = 36.2lbs
ZZW30 ’02 Spyder Manual Cloth Passenger Seat = 32.8lbs

My total weight savings: ~12lbs taking into account longer bolts and spacers.

All weights measured to the tenth were done with an AMW-TL440, The rest were done with a bathroom scale. I plan to update the old bathroom scale weights in the future.

What you will need per seat:

  • [1] ZZW30 Seat
  • [1] Longer bolt
  • [1] 1/8″ washer
  • [1] 3/8″ Spacer
  • [1] 3/4″ Spacer

The longer bolts I used were taken off of a precat from a 99 Cali Spec.
The 1/8″ washer I had laying around. The 3/8″ and 3/4″ spacers were salvaged from an aluminum 7th gen engine mounting bracket.

First order of business is to trim off these locating tabs near the front two bolt holes.

Next, bend the front two mounting ears down about ~70°. Don’t bend it too far, you can always bend it down more, but the more that the joint is bent back and forth, the weaker it will become – which can lead to premature failure.

Rear mounting points. The 1/8″ washer goes underneath the rear bolt hole nearest the door. This can be shimmed to your personal preference, but so far the seat feels pretty level.

Front mounting point, exhaust tunnel side gets a 3/8″ spacer.

Front mounting point, door side gets (2) 3/8″ spacers totaling 3/4″ and the longer bolt.

The least frustrating way to bolt the seats in is to get the two rear bolts a couple turns away from being snug, so that there is still a fair amount of wiggle room. Then insert the spacers on the front and get those bolts started. Tighten up the front bolts, then the rears.

The way I have attached these seats makes the slider mechanism a little sticky, so extra effort will be required to ensure that the slider is locked into position after moving the seat.

Lastly, these seats do sit a little lower than stock. And they make it feel more like a race car

my4dsc: 33

Member Credit: schmellyfart

I’m happy to say that I finally have a 6 speed swap under my belt now. This one was done on a buddies ’99 (deloa84), so I thought I’d show what I did differently than the procedure in the write ups. In my opinion my changes are cheaper and easier than the alternatives.

The main hurdles I’ve identified with the swap are the timing ring and the transmission mount.

For the timing ring, I drafted it up in my favorite CAD software and had it cut at a local machine shop. It is just a matter of unbolting the old ring off of a 6MT JWT Flywheel and bolting the new one on.

Next up is the transmission mount. I am a fan of being able to revert back to stock should the need arise, and this swap is no exception. It actually ended up being a lot easier than I had anticipated.

I used the stock 6mt mount bracket that bolts to the transmission, and ground the sides down a little. I also cut a bit of material off of the trans mount bracket attached to the frame rail. With the remaining three engine mounts (all are solid/polyurethane) bolted up, I drilled two new holes for the 6mt mount. Next, I drilled a hole large enough for the 6mt transmission mount bolt through the center of two and a half hockey pucks.

The only thing I would do differently with this mounting solution is buy a longer bolt and a nut to include the back half of the trans mount on the chassis.

I would not recommend this method without having some sort of filled or polyurethane mounts, as having only one solid mount can lead to the mount bracket on the chassis failing.

Everything else in the swap was completed as usual.

Parts used for this swap:

  • 02-03 HLSD Maxima 6MT
  • FWD JWT Flywheel with my custom timing ring
  • JWT Clutch
  • 02-03 Shifter Cables
  • 02-03 Shifter
  • Ralco STS
  • ES Shifter Bushings
  • One piece SS Clutch line

my4dsc: 23

Member Credit: schmellyfart

I’ve had this project on the back burner for the better part of the last year and a half, but it is finally done. 75mm tb on an A32 3.5 swap with a functioning IACV.

  • The TB is an aftermarket 75mm TB produced for a 86-93 Mustang, redrilled and clearanced to fit the VQ35DE TB bolt pattern, tb mounted upside down to make throttle cable routing a bt easier.
  • Throttle Cable bracket was fabbed from a random aluminum bracket I had previously removed from the car and bolted it to the firewall in place of the cruise control unit (for now).
  • The IACV is a VQ30DE-K IACV Housing with a Pathfinder IACV, mounted onto the TB with an adapter plate I fabbed up.
  • Throttle Cable Pulley is off of a VQ30DE.
  • I wasn’t thrilled with the way the original throttle cable return spring felt, so I replaced it with one from a B14. Note, this spring winds in the opposite direction than the VQ30DE throttle cable return spring.
  • The TPS is a stock 86-93 Mustang TPS wired up to a salvaged A32 TPS connector, making it plug and play.
  • No cruise control, unfortunately. I am currently looking into other 75mm TB where I can retain an IACV and CC.

As expected throttle response is increased, but low speed driving requires more attention than before as the throttle only needs to be held open 1-2% to maintain speed at 45mph according to my scangaugeII. Though the twitchiness at low speeds could also be attributed to the throttle cable being mounted to the Chassis, rather than the engine – even though I have all 4 poly engine mounts.

Before Portmatching

Everything bead blasted and port matched

75mm Mustang on left, 70mm PFTB on right

my4dsc: 62

Member Credit: 95naSTA

The point of this thread is to give people a heads up on what they’ll have to do to use the 07 Altima motor with the 3.0 timing. If you have the time/skill/money a full 3.5 swap will always out perform a hybrid setup. This is just for people that are lacking any of those and want something better than a typical hybrid swap.

Most importantly, this is for people who know how to read stickys. I will not be telling you how to do a hybrid swap. That info is already out there.


  • The upper/lower oil pans, oil pick up tube, and dip stick need to be swapped to a VQ30 or manual trans VQ35 5th/6th gen since the exhaust tunnel isn’t as high and will interfere with the front bank’s exhaust.
  • Cylinders 5/6 need the exhaust manifold studs swapped diagonally to work with the older gen VQ35’s.
  • The older crank pulley needs to be swapped on.
  • There are two knock sensors, one for each bank. I’ll be bolting up a 4th gen sensor to the rear bank.
  • The grinding for the p/s pulley and flipping of the belt tensioner bolt aren’t necessary since the newer 3.5 covers created those issues and they’re not being used.
  • The line for the oil cooler has been moved from the thermostat housing to the font coolant tubes and the cooler has gotten larger. The larger cooler will work on both older 3.5 upper oil pans and 3.0s.

You still need to run spacers and drill the intake cams. If you’re wanting to run adapters, typical 3.5 swap adapters will not work. The spacers are for 3.5L swaps with 3.0 timing equipment. They can only be used with drilled intake cams or drilled primary and intake cam gears. These are not adapters.

Here’s where it gets a little interesting.

Researching this swap, the question came up of how the 3.0 timing equipment might alter the timing of the 3.5 cams. I found the exhaust lobe centers of cyls #1&2 on my old 1st gen 3.5 (03 max motor) with 3.0 timing and they were 122* BTDC for the rear bank and 119* for the front. This is about 10 crank degrees retarded from the stock VQ35’s cam numbers (112 BTDC exhaust lobe center line). I used a degree wheel on the crank pulley, the 3.0 outer timing cover arrow as a reference, and a dial indicator riding the lifter bucket to find max lift. IMO, this method is good +/-3 crank degrees but either way the exhaust cams are retarded.

Now for the intakes. The dowel pins actually point up when cyl #1 is TDC’d like they do on a VQ30. But, that dowel pin would make the intake timing 28 crank degrees retarded from where a stock 3.0 would be.

07 Alti intake cam in a jig made from a 3.0 intake cam

Using a dial indicator with snake extension as a pointer to measure how many degrees the cam timing would be off if I used the 07 Alti VQ35 factory dowel pin.

Set as VQ30 timing

Clocked to the factory dowel pin hole

So, 14 cam degrees or 28 crank degrees off.

What I’m doing is drilling through the VQ30 primary/secondary timing gears and cam for the new (longer like other hybrid swaps) dowel pin 180* opposite of the factory gear timing slots so that I’m not just egging out the 07 Alti dowel pin hole. The stock 07 Alti intake cam bolts need to be reused for the intakes too. The VQ30s are too long.

The above cam timing would net:

  • Intake__Duration: 240º
    Exhaust_Duration: 240º
  • Intake_Opens: 7º BTDC
    Intake_Closes: 53º ABDC
  • Exhaust_Opens: 47º BBDC
    Exhaust_Closes: 3º ATDC
  • Overlap: 10º

Strange the exhaust timing matches up pretty close with a 3.5 Pathfinder. Either way it should be good overall.

I’m going to be using an 09 Maxima upper intake and (converted) throttle body with this swap since both are larger. The p/ns for the lower intake on both cars are the same number. The 07 Alti’s could obviously used if the TB is converted too. Before the engine went back I made sure the 09 Max upper intake bolted up without issue. No problems.

Altima Manifold

Maxima Manifold

Stripped down:

The 07 Alti comes with dual knock sensors like the 09 Max.I unbolted both and put the VQ30DE knock sensor on rear bank.

The Altima has a quick connect fuel fitting like the 09 max. My car already has AN lines from the filter. So, I need to get that quick connect to -6AN. I ordered 3/8″ and 5/16″ quick connect adapters by Earl’s since I wasn’t sure what size the rail was. The 3/8″ came but the 5/16″ is on back order. 5/16″ is the correct size and the p/n is 799-644120.

I got the 5/16″ to AN fitting on but because of the collar before the quick connect on the rail, the part that screws into the fitting to secure it needed to be grinded down. I have to get the car running asap. So, I did the following with what I had:

The cyl 5/6 exhaust manifold studs swapped:

Drilled cams installed, Alti LIM and fuel rail installed with 380cc injectors, front of block prepped, and 07 Alti secondary tensioners primed. (Yes, the 07 Alti tensioners are used)

Shots of how the HR head went back to the VQ30 cam cap bolt pattern. So, no drilling of the inner timing cover is needed.

In my first post I mentioned how the stock 07 Alti intake cam dowel pin hole is close but not ideal timing. Instead of drilling near that hole and egging it out, I opted to drill roughly 180 from that hole through the primary and secondary cam gears and through the cam. This puts the dowel slots on the gears pointing in the right direction as if it were drilled like a typical 3.5 swap.


Removing the 3.0 windage tray since the 3.5 already one bolted to the caps/girdle.

Bolting the rest of the 4th gen crap back on

Close ups of the Alti oil cooler hose routing. The rear line needs to be bent slightly, the cooler sandwich is clocked counter clockwise from it’s stock orientation, the hardline that came with the engine has been bent slightly, 2 tabs removed, one re-drilled to bolt to the front of the upper oil pan with the a/c bracket, and a longer hose used from the sandwich to the hardline. A long rubber hose could replace the front hardline setup too. And the p/s belt clears no problem.

It’s ALIVE. This is as clean as this will ever be.. (notice the different rear main seal too)

Dirty but all together.

A couple other misc things with the swap:

  • The TB gasket mesh needs to be cut out if you’re pulling the TB cable from the top rear.
  • The bottom rad hose needs to be trimmed since the thermostat housing is a 90*.

I’ve yet to really push it but it idles good, runs smooth, and pulls good mid throttle. Somewhere in the near future I’m going to gut the upper and remove the VIAS valves. So, now we know how this is possible, not just that it is.

my4dsc: 110

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