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my4thgen 95-99

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So you get your code scanner and it says something like, “Bank 1 Sensor 2“. So where exactly are these banks located?

Bank 1 means that the sensor is closest to the Firewall.

Bank 2 means that the sensor is closest to the Radiator.

Yup, it’s that simple.

my4dsc: 192

Member Credit: whlimi

I was running a cali spec ECM in my 3.5 swapped 99. I had 14 codes, most of them emissions related (damn cali spec) and TCM codes (running SSV4). Got myself a 95 5spd ECM from the junk yard and decided I would take the plunge and swap it into my 99. After an EU and SSV4 install, I’m happy to say that it was a fairly easy modifaction and took about an hour and a half most of which was spend tracing wires to double check the 99 FSM.

The advantages are obvious. No more codes apart from EGR (will solve this) and the P1320 because of the EU. This mod is great for those 3.5 swapped 99s looking to erase some codes. I can finally replace my broken keys without paying for the reprogramming and if I ever choose to do so, I can run a JWT or Technosquare ECM without paying the extra bucks for a 99.

Since I’m running the SSV4, I did not pay any attention to the automatic transmission communication wires running to the ECM. You might have to make a few more changes to get it to work with an auto. This write-up will work for a 5spd.

Here’s what you need to do:

– Disconnect the negative terminal of your battery
– Pull out the ECM and disconnect the harness. Familiarize yourself with the orientation of the harness and the pinout sheet you’re referring to.
– Pry the white locking tabs up to unlock the pins. I used a small flat head screwdriver.
– I removed the Pins by yanking on the wire a la Pmohr. No wires or pins were damaged this way. (Make sure the white tab is unlocked or you will damage the wire/pin)

Pin Swap:

Fuel Pump Relay – switch B/P wire from 117 to 11. What you need to know about this pin is that it’s larger than the socket in location 11. It’s the only pin that was not a direct swap. You will either need to acquire a smaller pin from another harness or use a redundant one from the 99 ECM. I used the NATS pin. NATS is pin 17 (Orange wire). Remove the NATS pin and relocate it to 11. Cut the NATS Orange wire leaving enough wire so that you can splice into it. Remove 117 B/P and splice it into the NATS wire now located 11. You have successfully moved 117 to 11.

PNP Switch – Wire colour is G/W Manual Transmission or R/G Automatic Transmission located at 27. We need to swap it over to 22.

CKPS REF and CMPS – This was super easy. All you need to do is swap the locations between the two sensor’s pinout locations. Originally on the 99, CKPS is at 46 and 47 and CMPS is at 44 and 48. We need to swap it so that CKPS is at 44 and 48 and CMPS is at 46 and 47.

Rear O2 – Not necessary but will get rid of the code. Red wire Located at 107. You need to move it to 105.

Reconnect harness to 95 ECM. (I think you can run 95-98 but I’m not positive and will let the Guru’s chime in)

Swap completed

During the course of your modification, you might be a bit overwhelmed by how tightly packed all the wires are. If you cant get to a wire, trace it down, locate it near the bottom of the harness and you can pull it up and yank it from there. When inserting the pins, make sure it’s all the way in. Most of the time once it’s in, it will resist being pulled out again.

Double check everything and reconnect the negative terminal to the battery. Your security light will remain on when the car is running but will not effect anything. You will have an EGR code. I suggest you verify pinout locations yourself with a multimeter and not solely rely on this writeup. Better safe than sorry.

****** I will not be held responsible for any damage caused to your car due to preforming this modification. You do so at your own risk. *****

Member Credit: 95crackedhead

For anyone that wants to know how to repin the harness, I took a couple pictures. First one is a side view of a harness that I sacrificed to practice on, (car came with a spare). I broke off a portion of the housing so you can get an idea of what a pin looks like fully seated in its socket.

First, pull the white locking tabs away from the housing. Use a small flatblade screwdriver or electronics pick.

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The plastic tang that is contained in the harness for each pin is what is holding the pin in place once the white locking tab is pulled away. If you insert your pick or small screwdriver inside the terminal side and release it, you should be able to pull the wire out the back of the harness to clear it. But this must be done simultaneously.

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Looking at the last pic, the horizontal portion of each pin socket is what actually makes contact with the pin sticking out of the ECM. Don’t put the pick here. Put the pick in the hole above the horizontal portion, feeling for when the pick bottoms out, then pry upwards. I had luck with a small flatblade jeweler’s screwdriver for the large sockets, and an electronics pick (Radio Shack) for the small sockets.

my4dsc: 55

Member Credit: Jason Sadler

You need 10mm socket, metal drill bit set with a good drill, self tapping screws, 2 hinges, 2 latches, and a friend to help you out when you get tired of drilling or holding the trunk lid up on your back…and yes you need the winnie the ooh blanket to protect your car when you lay the trunk lid down and metal shavings go everywhere.

The stock mounting of the trunk lid, 2 bolts on each side that need to remove that hold up the trunk lid. I bought the hinge from Home Depot for $5.49 and had it bent at a hardware store after taking my trunk lid off and finding out what angles were needed. I drilled 3 completely new holes for the hinge and used self tapping screws attaching to the trunk lid, same spot as the stock mounting piece.

This is where it get inventive and tricky, I used a simple locking latch from Home Depot for $2.49 that is used to slide lock fences or what have you, I drilled a hole in the arms of the trunk lid support and the sliding latch will slide the locking pin into the actual arm of the trunk lid support so that it will sit up normally. If you unlock, or unlatch the sliding latch so that it does not slide into the arm, you will let the trunk lid hinge down and sit “flip flop”..

This is also where the other side of the hinge gets bolted onto the mounting arm of the trunk lid. I used three screws for each and you can tell how well the hinge is secured on there. 4 holes drilled to secure the latch onto the trunk lid and then a bigger hole onto the mounting arm for the trunk lid where the latch slides into, you can also see the hinge fully mounted on the car.

And my friends, that is all there is to it really, when you want the trunk to sit flip flop slide the latch out of the mounting arm and flip flop it.. just remember, you cant close the trunk when it is flip flopped.

Pictures of the trunk flip flopped.

Depending on how far the hinge you buy swings around, your trunk may sit differently than mine does.. nothing extreme, but it just may be at less of an angle then mine. It is all about the bends you make, and it would be impossible to write out how I made the angles.. it’s something you need to just look at and see.

If you do not mount everything correctly you may have issues closing the trunk because it will not line up exactly as it did when it was stock.. you can try and remount everything again or just finagle it into place when you close it or open it like i do.. mine is off a little bit to the left, but it doesn’t bother me to shift it back and forth when I close the trunk, it sits the same when it is closed…

That is basically everything.. enjoy!

Additional Photos:

my4dsc: 99

Member Credit: EddyMaxx

I was shopping around for quality fans for my VQ35 Supercharged Nissan Maxima’s (6thgen and 4thgen). The dual Mishimoto fans were not cutting it anymore. And honestly, these were really no different than the 14″ generic ones on eBay. I did some research and found a company called SPAL. A fellow member (Javon B.) vouched for these fans confirmed they work very well. All 12-volt puller models, these Extreme Performance Electric Fans offer the most flow and fan area.

My car would overheat at times when going on long cruises with the air conditioner on. I no longer have any cooling issues at all. This fan is very powerful with 2,024 CFM and does the job with just single 16″ Fan. I’m not even using a shroud.

Make sure you use a good relay (at least 40 AMP) before connecting directly to your OEM harness. I personally used a SPAL relay. More info below:

Fan Part Number: 30102049

Fan Price: Between $100.00 -$130.00

Relay Price: It’s about $33 bucks. The part number for it is SPAL-FRH. It’s a 40-amp relay kit. Highly recommended.

Specs:

  • Type: High Performance – 12V Puller – Curved Blade
  • CFM: 2024 cfm
  • Height:16.22″ (412mm)
  • Width: 16.22″ (412mm)
  • Depth: 3.45″   (87.6mm)
  • Model: VA18-AP71/LL-59A
  • Made in Italy

Old 14″ Mishimoto Fans. These were 1300 CFM but certainly didn’t feel like it. 

Comparison of my 16″ SPAL Fan to Mishimoto 14″ Fan

Mounted on `Mishimoto Radiator. It’s literally a perfect fit.

Dimensions

Photo of the SPAL-FRH Relay (40AMP):

If you don’t use a good relay like the one above, this will happen (Photo Courtesy of Javon Bennet)

 

my4dsc: 128

Gregg Kunkle presented his daughter Lydia with a wonderful graduation gift this morning, a 1997 Nissan Maxima. Lydia did not know anything about the car. Her dad was secretly working on it and preparing it for a special surprise. Check out Lydia’s reaction in the video below.

Thanks Greg for being an awesome dad! As her first car, she will definitely love it. And congrats to Lydia on her graduation. 

 

my4dsc: 556

Member Credit: ViperVadim

The purpose of this thread is to compare the available headers for the 95-03 VQ3x Maximas. I’ve managed to get together the following different headers in the same room and do this comparison.

Click the image to open in full size.I was able to pull it off thanks to:

  • speed racer for SSAuto/XS Power
  • secondtonone317 for OBX
  • M&R MAX for Hotshots
  • Maximariceboi for Cattmans
  • tavarish for the Stock Fed Spec header (thanks to qnzmax too)

Let the comparison begin:

Stock for Stock (Federal Emissions vs California Emissions)

There are the two types of Stock VQ front headers:

  • 95-00 Federal Emissions Header
  • 99-00 California and ALL 2001+ Header

Click the image to open in full size.The California front header is a system that incorporates a Huge pre-cat (cat converter) doing it’s job for the environment.

Click the image to open in full size.

The pre-cat up close is big, and the stock headers are restrictive to the exhaust gasses flowing through.

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The front headers kinda look similar, until you look inside them.

Click the image to open in full size.

The fed spec has a round exit hole and has superior internal flow to the Cali-spec, the shape of the openning on the cali spec is irregular, and more restrictive.

Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.

The bends and rough edges inside the manifold all hinder exhaust flow, creating backpressure.

Furthermore the outlet after the pre-cat on the cali spec is much smaller than the fed, with an oxygen sensor placed directly in the exhaust path restricting even more flow.

Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.

Tthe rear VQ header is unchanged from 95-01.(EGR is closed off with a Large Bolt on all 01’s) But in 02+ ALL rear headers also received a pre-cat similar to the california front header in 99.

Here is a pic of 02+ rear header pre-cat, used from BLAKKILLA.GTR, thanks Man

Click the image to open in full size.

Now everybody knows what all maximas come with from the factory. As you can see from the pictures the Stock headers are designed very cost effectively, they comply with auto standards and compromise heavily between good Fuel Economy and power output. (Very Bad for HorsePower)

Before we discuss Aftermarket Headers we need to discuss:

EGR: Which cars have EGR?

  • All 95-00 Maximas Have external EGR.
  • All 01-03 Maximas have NO (external) EGR.

This is the EGR guide tube used on all 95-00.
Click the image to open in full size.

This is how the EGR bolts into the REAR header – and why you need the EGR bung on the rear header.
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GASKETS

Aftermarket Headers will come with Aftermarket Gaskets (read as: POS Gaskets).

The difference between POS and OEM

Click the image to open in full size.

DO NOT USE the supplied POS Gaskets! They cannot stand up to the heat of the headers. The gaskets are prone to cracking. OEM gaskets are multi-layered Steel and provide the best seal.

Click the image to open in full size.

OEM Multilayer FTW!

Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.

XS Power/SSAutochrome/Stone Mountain Racing Headers

These are the very first headers designed and mass produced for the maxima, it has went trough many names, but not so many changes, the latest distributor is XS Power.
This is the only system that can be used with a Budget/Cattman/Warpspeed y-pipe, meaning if you already have a (Fed Spec) aftermarket y-pipe, the headers will bolt right up to it. I still prefer to use the Supplied XS Power Y-pipe (for ideal fitment)

Cost $325 

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

They are derived from the stock header design except they have a nice flow improvement. every runner is separate, and merges into a 3-1 collector. They have much better flow over stock.

Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.

This is the flow improvement, you can see the 3-1 collector.

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The rear header has longer runners than the front with EGR bung as well

Click the image to open in full size.

Fresh from vipervadim’s paint shop

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However when comparing them to the header system from OBX you can clearly see the difference between long and short runners.

Click the image to open in full size.

With short runners, peak power is delivered earlier in the powerband. low-end and midrange is emphasized. (at top-end the headers are choking the motor)

with longer runners, peak power is delivered later in the rpm range. Midrange and Top-end power are affected better since the engine has less backpressure and less restriction for exhaust gasses.

Stats:

Header:
A. Runner Inlet (oval) 1 3/4W x 1 1/4H
B. Runner Diameter (outer) – 1 5/8in
C. Runner Length – Front (5, 5 1/2, 10 1/2) Rear (7, 8, 8 1/2) in
D. 3-1 Collector Diameter (inner) – 2 1/8 in

Y-Pipe
E. Y-Pipe Diameter (outer) – 2 1/8 -> 2 3/8in.
F. Collector Diameter (inner) – 2 1/4
G. Not Equal Length W/ EGR

OBX

OBX is not new to Maxima headers, they used to have this (below) header system for the 95-99 Maxima, 3-piece design, however they had a big fitment problem: the front header was right in the way of the front motor mount bracket (needed to be cut), and the rear header joined the y-pipe in a 90 degree bend (bad exhaust flow).

 I WOULD NOT Advise buying it because of Bad Fitment.

OBX has however smartened up from ^^those times^^ and completely redesigned their New Maxima Header System (fits 95-03, same VQ block) and this is what they offer:

Cost – $325 

Click the image to open in full size.

They have improved from the original header design, redesigning the whole system. the new design is now 2-piece. It incorporates long runners in the front header, with the mount issue solved (similar to hotshots design), and a distinctly improved 2-1 collector, eliminating the previous 90-degree bend. the rear header (with EGR bung) is integrated into the y-pipe as one piece

Click the image to open in full size.

This is how the system looks put together.

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Notice there are 4 o2 bungs for the front and rear oxygen sensors (ideal for 99+ cali spec), there is also 2 small flex sections instead of a single.

Click the image to open in full size.

I am very impressed with the OBX, they officially put themselves back on the map with their new redesigned Maxima headers. for the price and the end-result, this is the ideal header system for a ‘budget minded’ maxima enthusiast. I think the SSAuto/XS Power have met their downfall, because the OBX are in a similar price range offering a better designed system similar to (cattman and hotshot). I still have yet to find out how well they fit or how well they perform.

However the new OBX has it’s one drawback. unlike the Cattman and Hotshot and even the SSauto/XS Power Y-pipes, the inside diameter of the y-pipe outlet is only 2 1/16in, (outside diameter 2 1/8) smaller than stock.

Click the image to open in full size.

If you can replace the flex section and the outlet piece with 2.5in piping more gains will be had in the midrange and top-end.

Stats:

Header:
A. Runner Inlet (oval) 1 3/4W x 1 1/4H
B. Runner Diameter (outer) – 1 5/8in
C. Runner Length – Front (9 1/2, 11, 14 1/2) Rear (9 1/2, 10 3/4, 12) in
D. 3-1 Collector Diameter (inner) – 2 1/16 in

Y-Pipe
E. Y-Pipe Diameter (outer) – 2 1/8 -> 2 1/8in.
F. Collector Diameter (inner) – 2 1/16
G. Not Equal Length, W/ EGR

Hotshot

Hotshot is Out Of Business, so the Headers are no longer produced. There are some resellers who still have the last remaining stock, and of course the people who bought/installed them.

Cost $639 

Hotshot headers are on par with Cattman. they look very similar and the construction is very good. According to my measurements the Hotshots have the longest header runners and longer equal length runners on the y-pipe. They also have well machined inlet and oulets.

Click the image to open in full size.

The only problem with Hotshots: In the Front header, the O2 bung needs to be welded in another location. The original location puts it too close to the A/C compressor. Also depending on what year maxima you have, you will need to weld in an EGR bung to the rear header, since the Hotshots do not have EGR.

Click the image to open in full size.

Headers put together
Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.

Fresh from vipervadim’s paint shop
Click the image to open in full size.

Stats:

Header:
A. Runner Inlet (oval) 1 7/8W x 1 5/16H
B. Runner Diameter (outer) – 1 5/8in
C. Runner Length – Front (15, 15 1/2, 20) Rear (12 1/2, 14, 15 1/4) in
D. 3-1 Collector Diameter (inner) – 2in

Y-Pipe
E. Y-Pipe Diameter (outer) – 2 1/8 -> 2 1/2in.
F. Collector Diameter (inner) – 2 7/16
G. Equal Length (23 1/2in each) W/ NO EGR

The Hotshots like the Cattman headers have equal length runners (notice the round bend at the rear header), unlike the SSAuto and OBX.

Equal length pipes help the sound and they provide less backpressure.

Cattman

Price is somewhere around $850+ ShippedNewest ‘Gen2’ Version of the legendary Cattman Headers. Cattman switched to a 3-piece design like the Hotshots from their 4-piece ‘Gen1’ header design. Cattman is a full integrated system, the most expensive headers for the maxima, they are also made wit the most time and precision. there are no big bends in the Cattman piping, every piece is mandrel bent slightly then welded together to form a larger bend. Header runners and Y-pipe runners too.

Click the image to open in full size.

Cattman does it right: O2 bung in correct location, there are NO issue with the Cattmans. (you get what you pay for?)

Click the image to open in full size.Put together
Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Fresh from vipervadim’s paint shop

Click the image to open in full size.

Stats:Header:
A. Runner Inlet (oval) 1 11/16W x 1 1/4H
B. Runner Diameter (outer) – 1 5/8in
C. Runner Length – Front (12 1/2, 13, 16) Rear (12, 12 1/2, 13) in
D. 3-1 Collector Diameter (inner) – 2in
Y-Pipe
E. Y-Pipe Diameter (outer) – 2 1/8 -> 2 1/2in.
F. Collector Diameter (inner) – 2 3/8
G. Equal Length (20in each) W/ EGR
 

Header Comparison:

Here are pictures of the various headers compared to one another. This is the Group shot after Painting.

Click the image to open in full size.

So here we go: Many people have been asking me about this:

Cattman + Hotshot, just how different are they?First the y-pipes, notice how similar they are the only real difference is in the shape of the bend, the hotshot has a gentler bend, but the cattman is more steeper.

Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.

Now onto the headers, you can really see how longer the hotshot runners are compared to Cattman. the Cattman has great 3-1 collectors.

Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.

Hotshot and OBX

Click the image to open in full size.

Cattman and OBX
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Cattman, Hotshot, and OBX the 3 top contenders.

Click the image to open in full size.

This concludes my headers comparison.

So which headers are the Best?

You Decide — depending on your price range/preference. Thank You to everybody who helped out.

 

my4dsc: 303

Official PDF: Keyfob Programming 4thgen

Programming Instructions

1. Close and lock all doors with the driver’s side power lock/unlock switch.

2. Insert key into ignition and remove it from the ignition key cylinder at least six times within 10 seconds. Your Hazard Lamps will flash if you have performed this step successfully. ( Withdraw key completely from ignition cylinder each time ). If this procedure is performed too fast, system will not enter programming mode.

3. Insert key into the ignition cylinder and turn to the ACC position.

4. Within 5 seconds, push LOCK button on the keyless remote. Your Hazard Lamps should flash. ( Do not press the button more than one time in the above step). If the button is pressed more than one time, the programming procedure will not be successful.

5. If there are any remaining remotes (including the old ones), unlock then lock all doors using the driver’s side power lock/unlock switch and within 5 seconds, push LOCK button on the next remote. Your Hazard Lamps should flash. Repeat this step for each keyless remote (including any existing keyless remotes).

6. Turn the key to the OFF position, remove keys from the ignition, Open door, Test Remotes

my4dsc: 55

Member Credit: mastercater7 aka Zack

I wanted to post on here to share my project as well as do my best to help others. I am a member on maxima.org, but as far as having a boosted VQ35, there are not many people. Thus, needing input or help with problems can be hard to find. Well I put the motor back into the car.

Anyways the setup is a 2004 VQ35 on 3.0 timing, V2 on a V1 bracket, 2.87 pulley, 3″ charge piping, JWT ecu with 370cc and z32 maf, z32 maf, Deatschworks 600cc injectors, Cattman headers, 3″ warpspeed catback (waiting to be installed), Innovate LC-1 wideband, Greddy EMU, ARP rod bolts, and a short shifter. The only problem I have had so far is the the damn injectors and their clips. The injectors are deatschworks 600cc’s.

Entire engine bay. The 3.0 piping did not agree with the throttle body position, what a head ache:

I cut a hole in the fender for the cold air:

HKS SSQ blow off valve:

300zx maf and overflow relocated:

Some interior shots, I dont have a boost gauge yet because I am still trying to decide how to hide it, yet see it.

The Innovate LC-1 gauge:

And finally the exterior. I am going for the complete sleeper look, which is also why I want my gauges hidden.

my4dsc: 65

Member Credit: EddyMaxx

This morning I went to change the serpentine belt on my 1998 4thgen Nissan Maxima. While it’s a simple task, it turned out the “Adjustment Bolt”  was also seized and slightly bent. It definitely needed to be replaced.  The good news is that you can buy just the “Adjustment Bolt”  and/or “Adjustment Nut” by itself. You don’t need to buy the entire assembly. If those are your only two broken parts like me case, then all you need to order (or get at a junkyard) are these two part numbers:

Adjust Bolt – Nissan (11948-31U0A) – $15.33 (Courtesy Nissan)
Adjust Bolt Nut – Nissan (11934-31U0B) – $6.76  (Courtesy Nissan)

So you’ve taken it all apart forgot how to assemble it correct? Well no worries, below is the information you need to put back together.

Photo Credit: The Wizard

my4dsc: 131

Member Credit: Brad Connor

As many of you may know the radiator core support is a known “weak point” on the A32 chassis. This is an extremely common issue among A32’s from “wet” states. This thread will address a number of key points with this issues

  1. Signs of a bad radiator core support
  2. How to replace said radiator core support
  3. And why you shouldn’t use a cheap radiator core support

I: Let’s start off with spotting a failing core support (NOTE: The images shown are of very, very badly rusted supports)



II: We move on to How To replace the core support and what is the proper parts to be used and where you can purchase them.

To correctly replace the core support, the old unit will need to be cut out and the new unit will need be be bolted and welded in place..This job is definitely not one of the easier things to do an A32 and will likely need to be done by a professional or a fairly knowledgeable DIY mechanic with access to air tools and a welder.

Their are two common methods to to replacing the core support; one is replacing just the lower support (under the radiator) and the other is replacing the entire front core support. Either of these parts can be sourced at your local Nissan dealer or through a reputable online dealer such as Courtesy Nissan Parts.

PARTS

  • The part number through Courtesy for the entire support is 62500.
  • The part number through Courtesy for the lower support is 62530M.

I’m not going to post all of the info in the following threads … please follow the links for more information

JSutter – How to: Radiator support on life support…. fixed!

95naSTA – Lower Radiator Support Replacement Pics

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat…nt-photos.html

III:
We will move on to why you should buy an OEM core support and not a cheap piece off of ebay or rockauto. This is one of those things that “if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is”…meaning that $50 core support on eBay may sound like a steal of a deal right now, but 3 months down the road when you notice your engine cradle is sitting 3 inches off the ground and you have to pay to do all of this work again, you will wish that you had just spent the extra money to begin with because in the long run an OE piece is going to be the cheaper AND better investment.

I will let the images speak for themselves



my4dsc: 208