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my4thgen 95-99

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Community Member Credit: vipervadim

95-01 5spd VLSD rebuild (open diff part numbers too)

I’ve rebuilt 8+ or so 5spd open/VLSDs. Converted plenty of 6spds to HLSD/spec-V 6spd swaps. So it’s not a big deal for me to undertake something like this in a week.

I usually work thru and don’t stop to take pictures, so here’s some pics I was able to snap in between working/breaks. This is not a guide by any means, just familiarizes you with what is involved. This is not a job for someone who doesn’t have intermediate/advanced wrenching skills – so you’ve been warned..

it took me a week to disassemble my first 5spd back in 2005, now ~3 hours. If you are not familiar with how a manual transmission works internally, or are not confident in your abilities or can’t deal with issues when issues arise – leave this job for someone who knows it well.

I did not show the disassembly of shift forks/pins/how to set the check ball system/reverse gear/proper way to re-shim new bearings and other complex parts of rebuild, so once again this is NOT a how-to guide in any form or shape – I’m just posting pics of my progress.

BEARINGS SEALS PART NUMBERS

All ordered from Nissan = NACHI/NSK/NTN high quality Japanese bearings.
I’ve seen cheap kits with unknown bearing brands (made in china) and would not recommend using them due to the questionable quality of bearings

  • Input shaft bearing 1 – 32203-03E13
  • Input shaft bearing 2 – 32203-03E00
  • Main shaft bearing 1 – 32273-79E00
  • Main shaft bearing 2 – 32223-79E62
  • Pass side diff bearing (open diff – 2X) – 38440-96E00
  • VLSD driver side diff bearing (EXPENSIVE) – 38440-79E01
  • Input shaft seal – 32113-03E00
  • Shifter yoke seal – 32858-03E00
  • Pass side axle seal – 38342-81X01
  • VLSD driver axle seal – 38342-51E00
  • Open diff driver axle seal – 38342-81X00

How do you know if you have open diff or VLSD (the dumb way – look at the transmission)

  • if axle seal is small = open diff (left)
  • if axle seal is large = VLSD (right)

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Now that you know what transmission you have you can get the proper seals/bearings.. not gonna be cheap (VLSD bearings are ~$450)

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Onto the pictures: starting disassembly

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Cover is Off

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Shift forks, main/input shafts and diff is out

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OLD bearings off

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OLD bearing leftovers

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Shift yoke out

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Cases cleaned

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Yoke with new seal and boot in

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New bearings pressed on

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Assembled and sealed (need to swap speed sensor)

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Old tranny out

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VLSD tranny going in

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NEW axles, NEW throw out bearing

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and that’s all.. fun times y0!!

Community Member Credit: vipervadim

Another Project from 2014

6gen brakes swap into 4th gen Maxima that clear 16in rims

I’ve seen plenty of 6th gen brake swaps into 4th/5th gens but I’ve never seen them modified to clear 16in rims.

I have 16s, spring and stuts, I plow through potholes in NYC, I’m never going to drive low and SLOW and avoid all potholes like some others with huge rims and lowered cars. With that being said, I needed bigger brakes to help me SLOW down better.

I already had 11″ 2000 Max rotors and 4 piston wilwood dynalite calipers. Good for 60-0mph stops, but doesn’t fare too well with repeated high speed braking (100mph+). So back to the drawing board I went – The result is this thread

Old brake setup: 2000 Maxima(thicker than 95-99) 11″ rotor with Dynalite 4-piston Wilwoods

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they clear 15s with no problem!

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OLD setup vs New (11″ rotor vs 12.6″ rotor)

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Here’s where the fun begins:

To put 6th gen brakes into a 4th gen you need to enlarge the caliper mounting holes on the spindles.

  • Stock is 12mm
  • Need to enlarge holes to 14mm

So I got spare spindles, drilled them out, replaced wheel bearings, and cut off the heat/splash shields to clear bigger rotor. I mounted the 6gen rotor and caliper to spindle with a wheel spacer to hold it in and test the fitment on 16s.

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It didn’t fit so time to bring out the grinder! I grinded off the following parts of the caliper:

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And then grinded some more and some more…

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And then test fit it…

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And got it down to this…

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Once it cleared without issues I painted them

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Old SS brake lines were all nasty and weathered so: New Goodridge SS brake lines

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I did not need to use wheel spacers – they fit under the rims SO TIIIIIIIIIGHT!!! I love it!!!

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Braking is greatly improved. Had this setup since the end of summer and no rubbing, no issues just good brakes.

How do they compare to the wilwoods?
The wilwoods did have a better initial bite (4 piston clamp vs 1 piston) but when you step on the 6gens they just hold and hold like no tomorrow. Wilwoods would hold until a certain point and then start slipping (rotors gets hot)

For a typical drive around there’s no difference in braking 50-0, but when you push the car hard repeatedly, or braking from high speeds – they perform very well.

Community Member Credit: Carleton Wu

Having suspected a rear main seal leak for some time and oil covering tranny case (although bad diff. bearings also to blame) and high oil consumption. I dropped the tranny to do a tranny swap and found that the rear main seal was definitely leaking. There was no clutch slippage and the clutch disc did not have evidence of contamination–I think the flywheel shielded it some.

Flywheel removed (note oily residue all over):

Step one: Drain engine oil. Clean area (I used brake cleaner) and remove old seal–it is more of a bracket with integrated inner rubber seal. This includes any old stuck-on gasket sealant attached to the metal surfaces. It should look like this after:

Step two: With new OEM rear main bearing seal in hand (THANKS, JRNISSAN!), coat the appropriate edges with permatex high-temp gasket sealant — the edges will have a channel to hold in the sealant. Coat the inner rubber seal with a light coat of motor oil.

Step three: Very carefully insert seal. Make sure you do not deform (ie. force it) the rubber inner seal or you will tear it (the damned seal ain’t cheap!) or the metal inner retaining spring will pop out. You want to gently nudge it over the crank so the seal sits flush. Make sure you allow sufficient time for the Permatex to cure.

The end result should look like this:

Community Member Credit: iansw

So I’ve been asked to do a write-up on how to make the Z32 MAF setup work with the JWT ECU + 370cc Injectors while Supercharged on the charged side.

Symptoms:

With the Z32 MAF on the charged side and stock Stillen piping the car idles horribly, bucks hard when cold, and is generally not drivable.

Solution:

The Stock Stillen piping doesn’t work well with this setup. After spending a year trying to figure out if it was compressor surge, vacuum leak, etc, etc it turned out the reason (And solution) is quite simple.

I needed 3″ Piping.

The reason is not compressor surge or any performance boost with 3″ piping. The reason is simply that with the flange on the stock Stillen piping facing the way it faces, it causes the MAF harness to face up or down.

It must face towards the battery – like this:

As soon as I had the 3″ piping in originally (With the harness facing up) – it still idled and ran horribly especially when cold.

Turned the MAF 90 degrees – and problem solved.

Z32 MAF Part Number: 22680-30P00
Tomei Z32 Airflow Meter Harness Part Number: 194002

The Z32 Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor is great for turbo or supercharged setups. If you are not boosted then you do not need these. If you are boosted, the Z32 MAF allows you to measure more airflow into the engine than what the stock A32 MAF can. The Z32 MAF is calibrated for higher airflow and you can stay with an airflow referenced fuel metering system. The A32 MAF maxes out at an airflow equivalent to about 300HP and the Z32 MAF can meter about 500HP worth of air.

The J30 and the Z32 MAF both have the same sensor, just different harness connectors. The Z32 connector has two extra unused pins. Sometimes you can save money if the junkyard dealer doesn’t realize that the J30 MAF is the same as the Z32.

To simplify the installation, you can grab a Tomei Harness. The part number is 194002.

Z32 MAF Plug

A (No wire) = not used
B (White) = A32 White (Signal Wire)
C (Black) = A32 Black (Ground)
D (Orange) = A32 Black (Ground)
E (Black/White) = A32 Red (Power)
F (No Wire) = not used

1995-1999 5thgen Maxima MAF Pinout

Pin 1: White = MAF signal (White)
Pin 2: Ground (Black)
Pin 3: +12v ( Red)

Photo’s of Z32 MAF Sensor Installed

Community Member Credit: gtrrider / VQPower

Brief Details: What can the device be used for:
In the VTEC AFC II, the VTEC changeover point of a vehicle with a VTEC engine (in our case 00VI/MEVI) can be adjusted at an optional engine RPM. This fuel adjustment controller can increase and decrease fuel in a wide range of +50% to -50% by 1-point increments for the specified engine rpm. RPM points can be set in 100 rpm increments and make fuel correction according to the throttle position.

The second-generation SAFC is a fuel computer that adjusts fuel/air ratio by modifying the air-flow meter/MAP sensor signal. The SAFC features a user-definable, eight-point, adjustable fuel curve that can be set in 500 RPM increments. The range of fuel adjustment is +/- 50% at each of the user-defined setting points. On hot-wire vehicles, the Deceleration Air Flow Correction function is capable of curing the erratic idle and stall problems associated with open-atmosphere blow-off valves on hot-wire air-flow meter systems. The SAFC is capable of monitoring and replaying the following data channels in Numerical, Analog Meter and Graph displays: Intake Manifold Vacuum/Boost Pressure, Air Flow Capacity, Intake Manifold Pressure, Karmann Frequency, Engine RPM, Throttle Position, and Air Flow Correction %.

Tools Required: Necessary components used to install the VAFC to an A32:

  • Wire cutter
  • Wire Crimper
  • 10(or 12mm) socket and ratchet
  • Soldering iron with 16-22ag solder
  • Electrical tape
  • Snap connectors

Warning: I am not responsible if you fry your electrical system or damage your engine. Use caution when working with electricity and please disconnect the battery before proceeding!

Installation: Installing into your 1995-99 Maxima

You will need to access the passenger side of the ECU so from the passenger side of the car remove the kick plate to reveal the sealed harness to the ECU. Undo the 10mm socket from the center of the harness plug and separate the harness from the ECU. Pull off the clear plastic shielding which encases the wiring and we will begin the taping of wires for your new S/V-AFC II.

From here you will need to match up accordingly the wiring from the V-AFC II Harness to the wire location (NOT COLORS) on the ECU harness. Please note that you will not be using the Light Blue, Purple, or Orange wires from the V-AFC harness, tuck them away. Take note of subscript on ECU harness image for the location of Blue(O2 sensor hookup wire). Solder all wires securely and cover with electrical tape. Below are an V-AFC wiring diagram, an S-AFCII wiring diagram, and also the pin-outs on an A32 ECU harness, please use them properly to match up the wires. Failure to do so will result in damaged electronics or engine.

 

Initial V-AFC II Setup: Before you can start the engine you will need to setup the V-AFC.

Now that you have securely solder all the necessary wires to the ECU you may now begin the setup to make sure you do not damage the engine on startup. Turn ignition to the ON position but DO NOT start the engine and your newly installed V-AFC will come alive. Navigate through the menu’s, be sure to take it slow as not to incorrectly configure a vital setting. Move to the ETC menu; hit right on your joystick, scroll down and continue into Initialize, and toggle over to Yes. Accept the choice, after doing so wait 5 seconds and turn the ignition to the OFF position. Doing so will clear any unwanted information stored in the device if you happened to purchase the device used.

Return the ignition back to the ON position but DO NOT start the engine. Your V-AFC will activate again for more information to be stored. Navigate into the ETC menu again, and proceed to enter the following:

Sensor NO: 4 IN, 4 OUT (Assuming you are running a A32 MAF) –Otherwise*1*
Car Select: 6 Cyl, Arrow UP and RIGHT, V/T 1
Sensor CHK: Ensure sensors are giving readings

Further tuning settings will need to be fine tuned while on a dynamometer. Once all settings have been checked over, turn the ignition to OFF wait 5 seconds and return the ignition to ON one last time. While your V-AFC is booting let the throttle rest at 0% for 10 seconds, and depress the throttle to 100% for 10 seconds and release. You have now completed the learning sequence for throttle positions and you can proceed to start the car.

Please Note: This is in reference to the 6-Speed Manual Maxima’s.

What does HLSD Stand for?
HSLD Stand for Helical Limited Slip Differential

What is it and what does it do?
It is a limited-slip allowing power to be fed to both wheels when wheel slippage is felt. You can feel it kick in when you burn out….you ever notice how cars tend to turn to one side…well on yours…you should just pull straight.

How do you know if you have a factory 6-Speed HSLD?
The identification for the engine and transmission is located under the hood on the firewall in the form of a thin aluminum plate. The engine code will read: VQ35(DE)

If you have a 6 speed with an open diff the code will be: RS6F51A

The last letter A means open diff. Open diff is just the regular factory transmission without HSLD.

If you have a 6 speed with a Helical Limited-slip Differential the code will be: RS6F51H

The last letter H means Helical.

HLSD

 

 

UPDATE: September 23, 2020 – We’ve programmed various ECUs this year and programming worked 100%. It took about 5 minutes. Place charge anywhere between $50-$150 to do this procedure. Super simple! We’ve done 4thgens, 5thgens, 6thgens and Altima SE-Rs. 

Every 99-03 Maxima uses the same PIN for the NATS. The pin is “5523“. This is the default “master” PIN. 

This means that you can use a BlaZt cable to re-initialize the NATS on any Maxima of those years. This is particularly useful for those who have to replace their ECU and don’t feel like going to the dealership and dropping $100 to get the ECU programmed to their key/immo (or those who simply want to add more keys to their car).

More Info on Nissan Datascan & ODB2 Cable: https://www.my4dsc.com/nissan-datascan-ii-aka-the-affordable-nissan-consult/

Normally, the PIN is provided to you when you buy the car but most people lose it. Well, now you can finally add your own keys to the car and/or re-program a used ECU’s to the car.

For those who don’t know the PIN, the PIN can be decoded using a software called “Nissan SuperCode”. The software requires the serial number from the BCM that the ECU came from. It will then provide the PIN. The only problem is that when you buy an ECU from a junkyard, they usually don’t provide/know the BCM serial number from the car that the ECU came from. Normally, you’d have to go to the dealer so they can decode it, but now that I discovered this “master” PIN, you can do it yourself!

The following cars all use the same “5523” default PIN:

  • Nissan Altima 2001-2004
  • Nissan Maxima 1999-2003
  • Nissan Pathfinder 2001-2004
  • Nissan Sentra 2000-2005
  • Nissan 350Z < 2002
  • Nissan X-Terra 2003-2004
  • Infinity QX4 2001-2004
  • Infinity QX45 2002
  • Infinity Q45 2001-2005
  • Infinity G20 2000-2002
  • Infinity I30 / I35 2001-2005

Video Walkthrough

Member Credit: Matt Blehm

Please note that this post is for reference and documentation purposes ONLY. Matt Blehm no longer offers these products or services. Products were available from 2003 to around 2009.

BlehmCo Maxima Big Brake Kits

Front Big Brake Kit #1–2004 Maxima Rotors with 300ZX calipers: This kit fits all 1989 through 2003 models

Front Big Brake Kit #2–2004 Maxima Rotors with OEM 5th generation calipers: This kit only fits 2000 and 2001 models

REAR Big Brake Kit This kit fits all 1995 through 2003 models!

BlehmCo Maxima Front Big Brake Kit

This kit uses easy-to-find, off the shelf ALL Nissan parts! That way the next time you warp a rotor, or wear out the pads at an Auto X, track event, etc…you can just go to the local parts store and pick up replacement parts!  Not many BBKs will allow you to do that!

So what’s in this kit?

  1. NEW OEM 12.6″ 2004 Maxima Rotors (included in the Complete and Basic Kits)
  2. Used/Rebuilt/Remanufactured 300ZX  ALUMINUM  calipers, hardware, pads, shims, etc (included in the Complete Kit).
  3. Caliper relocation bracket
  4. All hardware necessary to install (nuts, bolts, washers, etc.)
  5. Goodridge Stainless Steel brake lines, certified to D.O.T. FMVSS test 106 (many of the brake kits out there don’t have this)

As noted above, the kit is offered with and without the 300ZX calipers for those of you who already have some, or have a good source for them already. If you’d like me to source them for you, then prices are at the bottom of the page.

What are the benefits to this Big Brake Kit?

You guys already know the benefits of a big brake kit on your car, so I’ll point out the original parts of this kit…

It uses a NISSAN rotor that’s meant to fit on this suspension. The offsets are correct so as not to cause huge wheel clearance issues, the hub bore is a perfect fit, and the wheel stud holes are a perfect fit. It also doesn’t rub on the control arms (at least not on 3rd or 5th gens).

As most of you know, the 300ZX calipers have a plethora of pad selections out there–WAY more than the Maxima does because of the performance enthusiast base. You can go with Raybestos, Wagner, Axxis, or comparable pads for the street for a very reasonable price, or you can bump up to Hawk, Performance Friction, Porterfield, Ferodo, EBC, and many other higher performance pads for track days. If you’re in a pinch and need new pads “NOW!”, simply drive to your nearest parts store and pick some up! They’re extremely handy, as opposed to other aftermarket calipers where you usually have to order pads and wait a week for them to come in! These calipers are also designed for street use in that they have dust seals, pad shims to keep road noise to a minimum, easily obtainable rebuild kits, and all the other low maintenance benefits of a caliper designed for years of street use instead of a caliper designed to be rebuilt several times per race season.

The rotors are currently available through OEM sources (dealer), and you can also get blank, slotted, crossdrilled, or slotted and drilled from www.irotors.com. You have all kinds of choices and I will leave that up to you, but I DO NOT recommend crossdrilled rotors due to their tendency to crack. There is enough information in thousands of other places on these issues, so I won’t bother repeating them.

What wheels will these fit under?

I have tried this kit with several wheels so you can get an indication of what will fit…. These kits DO NOT FIT UNDER THE STOCK 17″ Maxima wheels! So far, every aftermarket 17″ and 18″ wheel I have tried will fit, but the 17s get close on spoke clearance–depending on wheel design. I am currently trying to compile a database of all of the wheels that fit these kits to give you an idea, but the best way is to simply measure for yourself. I make no claims to wheel fittment, but for a general guess on if they will fit or not, use these measurements:

Measure 5 1/4″ out from the center of the wheel to one of your spokes. Now measure the distance from the surface of your stock rotors. If you have at least 2 1/2″ of clearance here, then you should be fine with the kit. I can tell you for certain that 300ZX (Z32) wheels will NOT fit without a 1/2″ spacer.

The installed kit:

For those that want to see more up close pics showing caliper clearance around the wheel and spokes, click here

And now for the part you’re really interested in–prices!

Complete Kit: $765 + shipping

This kit is ready to bolt on, with the exception of brake fluid. This kit includes:

  1. Remanufactured 300ZX Calipers
  2. New OEM 2004 Maxima rotors
  3. Custom Stainless Steel Brake lines–these lines are custom made to adapt the 300ZX caliper fittings to the Maxima hard line.
  4. Caliper relocation brackets
  5. All hardware necessary to install the kit

Basic kit: $440 + shipping

Note that this kit does NOT include the required calipers. I can get them if you wish, or you can supply them yourself. This kit includes:

  1. New OEM 2004 Maxima rotors
  2. Custom Stainless Steel Brake lines- These lines are custom made to adapt the 300ZX caliper fittings to the Maxima hard line.
  3. Caliper relocation brackets
  4. All hardware necessary to install the kit

Kit without Rotors: $200 + shipping

This is for those who want to source rotors, calipers, and pads themselves. This kit includes:

  1. Custom Stainless Steel Brake lines–these lines are custom made to adapt the 300ZX caliper fittings to the Maxima hard line.
  2. Caliper relocation brackets
  3. All hardware necessary to install the kit ( again, this kit does not include rotors or calipers )

Want me to source the 300ZX calipers for you? If so, then I can source just about anything you want:

  1. Parts car pulls (cores)–whatever price I can find them. Current prices range from $150 to $250 per set
  2. Cores rebuilt with OEM seal–core price, plus $60 ($30 of which is the rebuild kit). This price does NOT include new hardware. (Contact me if you want new hardware also)
  3. Remanufactured calipers (loaded with generic semi-metallic pads, shims, pins, and hardware)–$350
  4. I can also do powdercoating for $100 per pair on calipers. Please expect a few weeks of lead time if I have to order powder or calipers for you

BlehmCo Maxima Relocation Big Brake Kit

This kit uses easy-to-find, off the shelf ALL Nissan parts! That way the next time you warp a rotor, or wear out the pads at an Auto X, track event, etc…you can just go to the local parts store and pick up replacement parts!  Not many BBKs will allow you to do that!

What is this kit designed for?

This kit is designed for the average “spirited” driver to alleviate the rotor warpage issues that are so common on 5th Gen Maximas. It’s also an extremely affordable way to improve the cosmetics of your car if you’re running larger wheels. The factory brakes just look too small under 18″ and 19″ wheels! The other goal was to make them fit under the factory 17″ wheels–which this kit does with ease!

Not many BBKs will allow get anywhere near the price of this kit, nor will there be easily available replacement parts when it’s time to replace pads or rotors.

I tried this kit with several wheels, so you can get an indication of what will fit: So far, every 17″ and 18″ wheel I have tried will fit, but the 17s get close on rim clearance–depending on wheel design. I make no claims to wheel fittment, but I would say it’s safe to assume that most 17″ wheels will fit, and sure any 18″ wheel will also.

Here are several pictures of the kit, installed on Mike Hill’s gorgeous 2000 Maxima:

And now for the part you’re really interested in–prices!

Ready to Install Kit: $365 + shipping

This includes:

  1. New OEM 2004 Maxima rotors (aftermarket crossdrilled or slotted rotors are now available for an additional $20)
  2. Caliper relocation brackets
  3. All hardware necessary to install the kit (nuts, bolts, & washers)

Complete kit, without rotors: $150 + shipping.

This includes:

  1. Caliper relocation brackets
  2. All hardware necessary to install the kit (nuts, bolts, & washers)

BlehmCo Maxima Big Rear Brake Kit—1995 through 2003 models

This kit uses easy-to-find, off the shelf ALL Nissan parts! That way the next time you warp a rotor, or wear out the pads at an Auto X, track event, etc…you can just go to the local parts store and pick up replacement parts!  Not many BBKs will allow you to do that!

What is it?

Z32 300ZX REAR calipers and rotors built to fit 4th and 5th gen Maximas.

What are the benefits to this Rear Big Brake Kit?

You guys already know the benefits of a big brake kit on your car, so I’ll point out the original parts of this kit…

Many of you that have purchased Big Brake Kits for the front notice a front brake bias problem now. This is safer than having a large rear bias, but it is not the best performing. The rear brakes are tiny and just aren’t up to the task once you’ve upgraded the front brake system. They also look like go kart brakes behind the larger 17″,18″,and 19″ wheels that many owners are using now!

This kit, when paired with most front brake kits, will return the brake bias to within 3% of the factory front/rear bias. In my experiences, this has provided the best overall braking–nearly zero nose dive when you’re on the brakes hard, but you can still brake into corners without locking up the back end.

As most of you know, the 300ZX calipers have a plethora of pad selections out there–WAY more than the Maxima does because of the performance enthusiast base. You can go with Raybestos, Wagner, Axxis, or comparable pads for the street for a very reasonable price, or you can bump up to Hawk, Performance Friction, Porterfield, Ferodo, EBC, and many other higher performance pads for track days. If you’re in a pinch and need new pads “NOW!”, simply drive to your nearest parts store and pick some up! They’re extremely handy, as opposed to other aftermarket calipers where you usually have to order pads and wait weeks for them to come in! These calipers are also designed for street use in that they have dust seals, pad shims to keep road noise to a minimum, easily obtainable rebuild kits, and all the other low maintenance benefits of a caliper designed for years of street use instead of a caliper designed to be rebuilt several times per race season.

You can also purchase rotors at just about any aftermarket or OEM dealer. They have a huge selection of finish, slotting and drilling, and cryo treating options.

How?

For those of you that are familiar with the Z32 brakes, they use an internal drum-type parking brake–as almost all other high performance brake systems do now. This makes caliper maintenance and pad changes extremely quick and easy, but this is also what makes designing a rear brake kit for this car very challenging. I have designed and built a rear drum-type parking brake to fit inside the Z32 rotor, and that’s what this kit is based upon.

Will this work with front Big Brake Kits from another company?

Some of the other kits out there (Stillen, Fastbrakes, Precision, etc) use different piston sizes in their calipers that will affect brake bias considerably. Please check with me before purchasing and be ready to do some measuring of your calipers (or have the part numbers ready for the calipers so I can look them up.) I have talked with Fastbrakes and confirmed the piston sizes on their calipers–their systems will work wonderfully with my rear BBK. I have yet to confirm this with other kits.

If you buy this kit for other front systems, the worst you will have to do is install a $50 brake bias adjuster from Wilwood or Tilton to make this kit run on your car. Simply be very careful about locking up the rear brakes until you have adjusted the bias to fit your system.

How Much does it cost, and what do I need?

I have set the price on my parts so that the entire setup should cost you under $1000 for everything needed to install the kit on the car. I will send you everything needed EXCEPT rear calipers, rotors, and brake fluid, which you will be able to purchase from the sources below and come out under $1000 total.

The parts I will supply are the parking brake assemblies (including custom backing plate and bracket), replacement parking brake cables (your original cables will not work), 6061 aluminum caliper relocation bracket, all fasteners and hardware required for installation, and custom rear DOT approved stainless steel brake lines made to fit this setup.

The parts you need to supply are 300ZX rotors and calipers, pads, and brake fluid. Rotors: Feel free to purchase them from any place you like, but I highly recommend IRotors.com You will need to purchase a pair of REAR rotors from a 1990-1996 300ZX.

Calipers: You can find them quite often on Ebay for under $100 a pair. Any 1990-1996 300ZX TT or N/A rear calipers will work–they’re all the same. If you purchase them used, I highly suggest rebuilding them. You can buy a rebuild kit from Orielly’s Auto Parts, Pep Boys, Autozone, etc for under $10. Many auto parts stores also carry remanufactured calipers for a reasonable cost. In Houston, they are about $100 each without core, $60 each with core.

Now for some Pics!

 

So what’s the total price from BlehmCo?

You will send me $720 plus shipping for the parts you need from me. Shipping usually runs about $20 for anyone in the main 48 states. CA, AK, and HI are more, but I am more than happy to ship worlwide! You will still need to purchase rotors, calipers, pads, and fluid. This should run you less than $250, which puts you at just under $1000 for the entire rear brake kit!

I can also do powdercoating for $100 per pair on calipers. Please expect a few weeks of lead time if I have to order powder or calipers for you.