Category

my4thgen 95-99

Category

Member Credit: Unklejoe / EddyMaxx

UPDATE: November 11, 2019 – I programmed a new ECU using the below and worked 100%. It took about 5 minutes. Place charge anywhere between $50-$150 to do this procedure. Super simple!

Every 99-03 Maxima uses the same PIN for the NATS. The pin is “5523“. This is the default “master” PIN. 

This means that you can use a BlaZt cable to re-initialize the NATS on any Maxima of those years. This is particularly useful for those who have to replace their ECU and don’t feel like going to the dealership and dropping $100 to get the ECU programmed to their key/immo (or those who simply want to add more keys to their car).

More Info on Nissan Datascan & ODB2 Cable: https://www.my4dsc.com/nissan-datascan-ii-aka-the-affordable-nissan-consult/

Normally, the PIN is provided to you when you buy the car but most people lose it. Well, now you can finally add your own keys to the car and/or re-program a used ECU’s to the car.

For those who don’t know the PIN, the PIN can be decoded using a software called “Nissan SuperCode”. The software requires the serial number from the BCM that the ECU came from. It will then provide the PIN. The only problem is that when you buy an ECU from a junkyard, they usually don’t provide/know the BCM serial number from the car that the ECU came from. Normally, you’d have to go to the dealer so they can decode it, but now that I discovered this “master” PIN, you can do it yourself!

The following cars all use the same “5523” default PIN:

  • Nissan Altima 2001-2004
  • Nissan Maxima 1999-2003
  • Nissan Pathfinder 2001-2004
  • Nissan Sentra 2000-2005
  • Nissan 350Z < 2002
  • Nissan X-Terra 2003-2004
  • Infinity QX4 2001-2004
  • Infinity QX45 2002
  • Infinity Q45 2001-2005
  • Infinity G20 2000-2002
  • Infinity I30 / I35 2001-2005

Video Walkthrough

my4dsc: 1262

Member Credit: sparky1562

The Issue

Left work Friday afternoon everything was okay. No signs of previous issues, no codes. Sitting at a stoplight the car started shaking real bad, hit the gas to go and she kept running but very rough. The check engine came on. I went to blinking mode as a kept driving. Pulled into Autozone read P0300. Nothing obviously disconnected. Smell of raw fuel out the tailpipe with blue/white smoke but not too heavy.

Made it home, the problem continued. I would rev fine and run better at 30/40 MPH but was rough. Left it alone until yesterday. It seemed to run better when cold, but not right.

I have ohmed out the injectors, the coils, all read okay. Pulled all plugs, all are dry except #1, which was a little wet, but none are fouled. Did a compression test (not fully warmed up I am sure) All cylinders came out to 210 PSI, except #4 which was 150. repeated and got the same results.

I can smell raw fuel so I know it is not running right. No leaks. When I crack the throttle and release, I can hear a gurgling sound in the vicinity of the throttle body, maybe at the EGR area/cylinder 5. I have heard that for a while. Maybe related, maybe not. I don’t hear any sign of a vacuum leak.

The Fix

Well, it was fuel related. Specifically, a nearly clogged filter. I would have thought it would have just shut down, but it acted just like a dropped valve. Bought gas at a station I don’t normally buy from. Not sure it was a tank of bad gas or just timing, but the filter was the issue. I thought it might be the fuel pump, but it seems to be running perfectly now.

my4dsc: 13

Member Credit: dustey

The Issue

I have been battling a cylinder 6 misfire (P0306) for many months now. I have spent a lot of time on this website researching, but I can’t seem to find anything that works.

The problem: Intermittent misfiring on cylinder 6 that will come and go. It can switch from misfiring to not misfiring instantly. No change due to driving conditions. It happens on the interstate at 70mph, in neighborhoods at 25mph, and at idle. Some days it runs great, only misfiring for a short time, other days its a battle all day long. Sometimes it accelerates just fine, other times it misfires all the way. The idle is fine. Although it may misfire, the idle stays very normal, with no fluctuation.

I have checked the easy stuff already:

I have done all of the above, and none have made any difference in the misfiring. Always on cylinder 6.

I, fortunately, know a tech at the local Nissan dealership who also tested the wiring harness and intake plenum with similar results. He also flashed my ECU. He is now saying it’s the ECU because none of the other things have fixed it. His cost on the ECU is $650!

I called David from SpeedometerRepairGuy.com and explained what I needed and he said the ECU rebuild he does for Maxima’s wouldn’t fix my misfiring (only fixes damage from a bad IACV), also stating he had never heard of this problem before. Again, I have no problem with my idle.

Not sure what to try next. A friend of mine suggested the fuel filter, but the Nissan tech was adamant that it couldn’t be the fuel filter, also citing its a “lifetime” part. Thought about just changing it, since it’s so cheap anyway.

Any other ideas of things I should try before getting a new (or used) ECU? I have already purchased one used ECU through car-parts.com and it was bad, so I am 1) trying to avoid the hassle of trying to find a good used ECU and 2) trying to avoid spending $650+ on a new ECU from Nissan. After all, at this point, I don’t know it’s a bad ECU, it’s by deduction that I/we think its the ECU.

I replaced the ECU with a reman unit from the dealership and had them install and reconfigure everything. (I did this as I pulled my then current ECU out and it was clear that water had gotten into the unit and there was corrosion on the board plus my buddy the Nissan tech is usually spot on.) Didn’t misfire for a day, but its back with vengeance now.

Since the posts above, I replaced the spark plugs again with OEMs (had Auotlites before), and today I switched coils between the bad 6th cylinder and a good cylinder (2), and it still continues to misfire and throw a P0306.

I just don’t understand why it would not misfire for 2 straight weeks when I replaced the fuel filter/strainer and then come back. Could it have something to do with fuel pressure? I mean, replacing the fuel filter/strainer does mess with the fuel pressure since you have to disconnect the lines and pull the fuse? I may be wrong, I am no mechanic…

What’s next? Switch out the injector again? I am second-guessing everything I have done now…

The Fix

To follow up on this thread, I checked the compression (dry) and it was 125 across the board. Low, but not inconsistent which is good. Despite the Nissan tech’s advice to not replace the fuel filter (strainer) since it’s a “lifetime” part, I did anyway because it was a $13 part, easy to do, and $13 isn’t a lot to take a chance on in case it does work. I did both the compression test and fuel filter last Thursday (8/19/10) and it hasn’t misfired since. Unbelievable.

It started doing it on Friday 9/3/10. It went 2 weeks without misfiring, and started back again. The frequency seems to be less, however, it is throwing the P0306 code again (same cylinder as before). Since the problem started however long ago, it hasn’t gone that long without misfiring. It leads me to believe that its fuel-related somehow.

A friend suggested that it may be caused by a dirty fuel tank… reasoning that it ran fine for 2 weeks with a brand new fuel filter until it reached the dirty stuff in the tank. It did start misfiring just after I had filled up at the gas station (waiting in line for the car wash at the same station, actually). I just find it hard to believe that a dirty tank could do that and cause the exact same cylinder to misfire, but stranger things have happened.

Well, I got it figured out. There is something loose or a bad connection with the actual connector on the wiring harness which connects to the coil pack. Me and a friend of mine just starting wiggling all of the wires we could find after determining that it had to be something electrical related. By moving the connector itself a hair this or that way, I could cause it to misfire and then stop. We rigged it up to hold its place where it’s not misfiring:

So far so good. It has misfired maybe once or twice in the last week but it was literally just ones or twice and then it would be fine.My mechanic buddy at the Nissan dealership is going to replace it when he can find a spare. I know what you are thinking… Shouldn’t I have noticed this a really long time ago? Well, in hindsight, yes of course. But, it was one of those things that I took for granted and looked past. I never considered it could be something like that…

my4dsc: 15

Member Credit: Jon Sutter

I bought the kit from my cousin who bought a SC’ed 96 from another member here. It’s a Stillen V1 plate and V1 supercharger. Instead of the Trex fuel pump and pressure switch, it has a Walbro in-tank pump. It also has an AFPR along with the FMU. I used my rail-mounted AFPR instead. It had a CAI but I chose not to install that right now.

Lots of time was spent cleaning, painting and sourcing parts to install it. I went through everything except for the SC itself. I’ll rebuild it over the winter or swap it for a V2. It’s too loud for my liking. My car has the stock exhaust so I hear all sorts of new noises. Da whistles go WOOO-WOOOO.

There were a few minor issues. The belt I bought was too long. I got a K060705 without checking the car which had a destroyed K060696. I have a K060695 now. I used the 95-96 IATS so some soldering was needed. Having the 00vi made it a bit more complicated. An extra tube and coupler I had actually fit perfect. Routing the relocated IACV was fiddly.

I’m anal as can be. Saying I took my time is an understatement. I mean really, I extended the MAFS power wire with the same wire from another harness. I also swapped the bolts for studs on the thermostat just so the gasket was easier to install. I mean who does that?!

Alright enough with the talking, on to the pictures.

The car as advertised in 2016.

As it was dropped off to me.

Reinstalled onto mine. In before someone says that filter is small, it’s from the 350z Vortech kit.


Interesting CAI.

AFPR and FMU, the hoses were a mess.

Not much of a looker.
What a strange oil feed line.

This needs some cleaning.

How many more miles could this go?

Taking a bath.

Clean enough for my car.

A few coats of paint.

New 90 leftt, original right.

Swapping in a fresh thermostat.

More painting.
Ready to do some work.

Things are falling into place.

Messing with the fuel lines.

Just about there.

Needs a filter.
Oh, it’s cute.

All done…


Mounting a pod.

I like this better than the A pillar.

Let’s go for a drive!

my4dsc: 193

Member Credit: Jonathan Martinez

This will allow you to add a new style maxima (2004+) Mass Airflow Sensor to your 1995-2003 Nissan Maxima. For example, the newer MAF sensor is pretty much the same as 90% of the newer Nissan Models. Much cheaper and easier to find. You just need to be sure you also use the newer MAF housing when installed this.

Pin 1 – Blank
Pin 2 – +12v power
Pin 3 – MAF GND
Pin 4 – MAF signal
Pin 5 – IAT signal
Pin 6 – IAT GND

my4dsc: 198

Member Credit: Cdg2125

Tools Required:

  • Ratchet
  • 10m socket
  • 12mm socket
  • Flathead or 8mm socket
  • Pliers or vise grips
  • 1 can of Throttle Body cleaner
  • 1 can of Carb cleaner (I find Berrymans B12 to work fastest)
  • New throttle body gasket
  • New IAC Valve Gasket (dealer only)

Step 1: Disconnect battery. unclip airbox, unplug MAF Sensor, use pliers to slide clamps holding hoses to airbox down and slide off hoses, use flathead or 8mm socket to loosen clamp holding air tube to throttle Body, remove 10mm socket on side of airbox holding it down and remove air intake assembly.

Step 2: Move the throttle to fully open position, lift throttle cables one at a time forward and wiggle out of the TB (towards the left of the TB). Unplug 2 Throttle Position Sensor Plugs.

Step 3: Remove the 4 12mm bolts holding the TB to the plenum

Step 4: On the bottom of the TB there will either be 2 or 3 hoses attached. use pliers to slide clamps down and remove hoses. make sure your radiator cap is still on or engine coolant will start to flow out. If hoses have seized on, use a flathead to pry the top and break the seal.

Step 5: Remove throttle body. scrape old gasket from both surfaces. clean entire butterfly plate (both faces) and cylinder. there should be no black when done. use only throttle body cleaner as carb cleaner will remove teflon coating which can later lead to faster corrosion and/or deposit formation

Step 6: Locate IAC Valve (triangular unit bolted to the driver’s side of the plenum right in front of the firewall with a large hose that was connected to the air intake assembly) unplug all 4 plugs.

Step 7: Remove 10mm bolt holding EGR Temp Sensor plug to the IAC Valve. (hard to see so you may have to feel around the firewall side for it) It is the only plug of the 4 not directly attached to the IAC Valve body

Step 8: Remove 3 12mm bolts holding IAC Valve to the plenum and remove IAC Valve. Remove old gasket (no need for scraping as it is a metal gasket).

Step 9: Spray/wipe the entire inside of the triangular face clean. Spray the inside of the brass housing clean of all deposits. spray base of Idle screw clean to ensure no carbon deposits remain. Be liberal with the spray.

Step 10: Replace gaskets and reassemble in reverse order. make sure when attaching the air tube to the TB you tighten the clamp. a loose clamp = a small vacuum leak that probably can’t be heard but will be felt (high idle).

Before reassembling, some like to spray remaining throttle body cleaner/carb cleaner into the plenum to clean it up. This is usually a waste of time since oil coming from the PCV will quickly muck it up again but pooled cleaner may help clean downstream intake when you start it back up. not enough to make a big difference but hey. If you do this, don’t be alarmed by the blue smoke at startup (oil and sludge being burned off). Start the car, take it for a short run to blow any remaining cleaner out and you are done.

YouTube Video’s:

my4dsc: 64

Owner: Chase Morphies

Year: 1998
Model: i30
Color: Blue
Transmission: 5-Speed Manual

Mod List:

  • Custom 3″ Side Exit Exhaust
  • Red eBay Lowering Springs
  • XXR 513 19 x 9.5″ All Around
  • 5 x 114.3 225/45/19
  • 300ZX Fuel Filter
  • Tuned on APEXI
  • DE-K Engine Swap
  • 5-Speed Swap
  • 20% Window Tint
  • Hood-Pin Release
  • 2 12″ Crunches – Subwoofers

my4dsc: 289

Member Credit: xlack

This is from a G37 but the procedure pretty much identical to Nissan Maximas.

OEM Oil Pan completely stripped of silicon residue:

JWT Oil Pan Spacer:

New silicon applied:

Brush used to remove silicon remains:

This bolt has to be bended in order for the oil pan spacer to fit. (guy from 370z forum had it cut off, but is not necessary):

Bolt is knocked back into position:

my4dsc: 221