***Update 5/15/2020*** Disregard most of my ideas. 1/2″ NPT to 3/4″ barb fittings are needed.
IMO $60 for a piece of aluminum is, well, a bit much. Being a DIY’er I had to come up with my own version.
Run down to your hardware store and pick up a 6″ pvc cleanout plug. Yes, the same type of plumbing your toilet is connected to! Set the IACV in the hole, making sure there is enough over hang around the valve. Trace the outside, trim it to shape, drill and tap the holes, add a fitting anywhere really, slather on some RTV gasket maker and you’re up an running. Paint it black and it blends right in.
I also made a block off plate for the 00-01 throttle body. Its just a piece of aluminium flat stock, cut and shaped like the IACV. At first I was going to leave it blocked, but then got the wild idea to make a hybrid 4th/5th gen IACV setup. Drill and tap the bottom of the TB and BOP and add the fittings. My setup uses 2 fittings, one to delete the 3/4″ hose on the mid pipe / resonator.
All plumbed up:
All the fittings are 1/4″ pipe thread (mip npt) and 1/2″ barb.
I am revisiting this to update what actually works. The original fittings were too small. They made noise and caused issues with cold idle and hard starts.
I have increased them to 1/2″ NPT with a 3/4″ hose barb. I drilled and tapped a hole on the back of the intake to add a barb (kind of under the cruise control actuator) and plugged the holes in my TB plate. I used a heater core hose to plumb it. Everything runs perfect now.
Needed Equipment: -05-06 350z / 05-06 G35 Sedan Dual Piston Brake Caliper, Bracket and Rotor (Rotor NOT needed on a 04-08 Maxima). -02-08? Maxima Caliper Bolts -Brake Fluid. -Aviation Snips (Some type of sheers for cutting metal).
I’m not going to hold your hand through this one, just make it to the point where your car is safely on jack stands and you’re looking at this….
Step 1: Remove the unnecessary components. (If you’re a 89-01 skip to step 2)
-Disconnect your brake line
-Rotor (6th genners keep this on!!)
Keep track of your two caliper bracket to spindle bolts, YOU WILL NEED THIS! You can NOT use the bolts off of the G/Z they are tooooo long. If you’re swapping from a stock 4th gen setup, I suggest ordering these from Nissan. If not then goto your local hardware store and purchase replacement bolts (Will update with the correct size).
Step 2: Install Dual Piston Glory
-There has been confirmed fitment issues, I am working on a easy sure fire way around this. It looks like grinding down the calipers are needed to clear the rotors because of the bracket not moving it out far enough from the center of the hub. I will get around to putting this on a running car to see what is needed to get these on a Maxima, I really think not much is grinding is needed.
-Install rotor This is where you need your handy dandy shears for 4th/5th gens… Start snippin away at what comes close to contact with the rotor or control arm (have both wheels in the air and the steering wheel unlocked so you can check the clearance while turning the wheels). I have yet to fully test on a 6th gen spindle and their dust shield, I will on Monday. 6th gens and L31 Altimas shouldn’t need to modify their dust shield because they accommodate larger 12.6″ rotors already.
-Install bracket You may still need to continue to hack away at your dust shield. During this step it’d be wise to give the disc a good ol whirl around to check for any rubbing.
-Install Brake Pads
-Install the Dual Piston Caliper
-Re-install your brake lines
Make sure to check the rotation of the disc again. And you have to use the bolts for the 02-08 Maxima. The 3rd/4th Gen bolts will NOT work and the 350z/G35 bolts will NOT work.
After your done it should look like this:
Then proceed to step 3.
Step 3: Prepare for WAR!
-Bed in pads (you should be using new pads and rotors :squint:)
-Troll Q45/Z32 front brake owners 😎
Quick Facts: -350z/G35 brembo’s will go on following the same procedure it takes to install them on non brembo 350z/g35s (Just replace the bracket/caliper/rotor!). If you’re a real baller you can get the Akibono (spelling?) Brakes and relocation kit for the 350z and do the same thing….. Remember, this is a game for ballers and only ballers can participate.
-I have yet to test this mod on the street!
-The dual piston pads use more sweeping area than the 300zx pads.
-It BARELY! Clears AE wheels on my 4th gen if you’re running the stock wheels I suggest getting a 5mm spacer for safety sake.
-Caliper Comparison (4th gen and G35/350z, the 5.5 gen on my car looks just like the 4th gen, who cares)
-4th top, 5.5 Gen middle, G35/350z/6th Gen on the bottom.
After cutting the container, I used lots of JB weld to secure it into place. Not shown, but there is also a bunch of epoxy around the inside for added strength. For that I used a self-mixing syringe type clear epoxy.
Here it is, fitment with the reflector mounted into the housing. The empty containers were from workout supplements; different colours, but both were identical in size.
I used a sheet of balsa wood for the base, with some chrome vinyl for the front edge which will be visible. The LED were secured into the reflectors with epoxy; the reflectors secured to the base & one-another with clear epoxy.
Home-made resistor array, clear-coated after everything was soldered to prevent the copper from oxidizing.
Epoxy’d the DRL base into place.
Cutout the top cover, also made from a sheet of balsa wood. Showing the bottom view where the chrome vinyl wraps around. Prior to mounting, I spread epoxy all over to prevent the edges of the vinyl from lifting.
Epoxy’d the top cover. The reason I used chrome vinyl is so that the DRL assembly flows well with the rest of the headlight.
Close up of fitment.
The Denso slims had the short cords, this would be problematic for most retrofits… I extended the wires while making the ballasts D2S/AMP hybrid. This will make headlight removal easier as well.
Soldered + adhesive lined shrink tubing. Notice how the solder joints offset one-another, good practice in case the joint or insulation fails (which it shouldn’t, lol).
Terminals crimped on.
Ooooohhh, aaaahhh… I’ll be potting the ballasts as well.
Wires fished out through a rubber grommet. Here’s the wiring setup: The one loom has the DRL + solenoid wires, the other has the ballast cord.
Cap screwed on, sealing the back from dust/water. The 3-pin connector wires: solenoid positive, ground, and DRL positive.
The rubber grommet at the bottom.
Here’s the custom DRL controller + headlight controller.
The DRL controller has a dual brightness mode via an external PWM (ebay). Also, I’ve made it so engaging the e-brake will disable the DRL, just like the stock DRL. This will give me the ability to pull the handbrake up one click and have the DRLs off if I need to be stealthy, lol.
On the right is the low+high beam controller. basically it’s a delay off circuit. Meaning, if the headlights are on and then turn them off, it will take about 2 seconds to shut off… I did this mainly for flashing while the headlights are off. This way it’s not flashing the ballasts as they remain on in between flashes.
Ebay PWM at the bottom.
Potted the Denso ballasts.
Made a 9004 “connector” out of an old bulb. Removed the bulb and soldered wires onto the pins, then filled it with potting compound.
Eventually I plan on making an Arduino controlled DRL/headlight controller, it will have a fancy aluminum housing… For now, I’ve got the current setup wrapped in electrical tape… yea, it looks like a grease job, LOL.
LEDs are dimmed when parking lights come on.
Low beams on:
I don’t have output pics at the moment, but I’ll get them in the next few days.
Hey everyone, I haven’t been active on the forums for a while but would like to share my solution to my CEL code P1447: EVAP Control System Purge Flow Monitoring code. This code is known as the jackpot code since it points to so many possible issues. I’ve been getting this code for a few years and never took the time to fully research and fix the problem. I kept trying to reset my ECU and fill up the gas tank, hoping the EVAP system will stay not ready and allow me to pass inspection. I would have to drive the car for about 60 miles before it gets down to 2 monitors not ready but by then I would get the EVAP code, Knock Sensor, and 02 sensor, and other various 5spd swap codes. After about 20hrs of research, multiple days of labor, and about $500+ in trial and error parts, I finally fixed everything. Keep reading, I could have fixed everything in just a few hours for about $120 !!!
First off, I would like to give credit to everyone who posted the Factory Service Manuals (FSM), Technical Service Bulletins (TSB), YouTube videos, and past experiences online. Also, my local 4th gen parts guy, maxfever1987.
Vacuum Pump Tester ($40 from AutoZone)
2 wires with alligator clips
10, 12, 14mm sockets an ratchets
Replacement Parts where available are also linked in each section below.
To keep things from getting complicated, refer to this factory diagram below (95-98 step motor type). From here on I will be using part names as stated in this diagram. The names are very similar and I found many threads where people are referring to a part by the wrong name which gets confusing fast.
My car is a 97 SE Auto that was converted to 5spd. I am finally running the correct year ECU in this car and I also have a custom engine harness adapter for my Greddy EU and J&S Safeguard. However, cars manufactured AFTER 4/97 have a different EVAP canister and EVAP Vent Control Valve. I am not sure if that affects the ECU for 97s since it is a transition year for these parts. My car has a 4/97 production date and uses the earlier style canister/vent control valve setup. 1999 models uses a different type (duty cycle) EVAP Purge Volume Control Valve and does not have an EVAP Purge Cut Valve and EVAP Purge Control Solenoid Valve. My knowledge of this is based solely on FSM material and I will do my best to point out the differences.
I used a modified approach of troubleshooting and If I was to do this again, this would be my course of action. First thing to check under the hood is the EVAP Purge Cut Valve and EVAP Purge Volume Control Valve by removing two 12mm and two 10mm bolts and unplug the harness. Take off all the necessary hose clamps/hoses and remove this assembly from the car. Then separate the EVAP Purge Volume Control Valve. Leave the EVAP Purge Cut Valve connected with the small hoses and tiny hardline/bracket assembly. Shake the parts and if you find any bit of charcoal which you most likely will, you will need a new EVAP canister and MUST, MUST, MUST blow out the entire purge line.
EVAP Purge Volume Control Valve (99s should follow EVAP Purge Control Solenoid Valve test below for this component)
Follow the test on FSM EC-334 and refer to this video from 9:00 to the end:
I had all the hoses disconnected and the unit fully removed, just plug it in and have someone cycle the ignition switch and watch for the solenoid movement. It will only move about an half inch in a slow steady motion. Make sure it is not sticking. Use compress air gently to blow out all the charcoal particles in both positions, ignition switch on and ignition off. DO NOT use forceful pressure. With the valve closed, there should be very minimal airflow, it’s better to use your mouth to blow on it. The compressed air can cause high volume airflow that will not be seen under normal conditions. Determine that all resistance values are within range and the solenoid operates properly. New unit: https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor…nid=459&jpid=2
EVAP Purge Cut Valve (Except 99s) Follow the test on the top of FSM EC-335. Use compress air to gently blow out the charcoal particles from ports B and C. For these steps, do not use compressed air to test the air flow especially on step 2 with vacuum applied or you will hear the diagram flapping hard and may damage it. Blow into the port with your mouth and check to see that works as described in the test. If it does not stay closed or does not open, you will need to replace it. Buy used or NEW from Nissan, I could not find an aftermarket equivalent: http://www.courtesyparts.com/14931-v…-p-130349.html
EVAP Purge Control Solenoid Valve Follow the test just under the above component on FSM EC-335. I did not disconnect any of the hoses because these nipples have a tendency to become brittle and break if you do not remove the hoses properly. All I did was use alligator clips. Unplug the harness and connect your alligator clips to the solenoid pins. Try to connect each one on the far outside so there is less chance of them making contact. A short circuit will not damage the solenoid itself but will heat up those tiny alligator clips and wires fast. Put any end of one wire on the battery ground terminal and use the remaining free wire end to tap on the battery positive terminal. You should hear the solenoid click each time you tap the battery terminal. If it clicks, you should be good. There are a total of 3 solenoids in that same area. I ended up testing them all, only 2 are EVAP related I believe. I did not test the Boost Sensor. Perform a visual inspection of all the small vacuum/hard lines and make sure there are no cracks. If your lines look brittle, you may want to replace them or test them with the vacuum pump and your finger.
EVAP Canister & EVAP Vent Control VALVE This is located behind the driver rear wheel. I found it easy to jack up the car and remove the wheel since you will be spending a lot of time here testing and replacing parts as well. Be careful removing the plastic shield, the clips are easy to break. Remove the 3 hoses that go to the EVAP Canister and then unbolt the 2 bolts that hold it to the car carefully. If you strip the bolts, zip ties will be holding up your new canister! If you had charcoal pieces up front, then you can probably spend 15 minutes just emptying the canister. I tried to replace the canister and the EVAP Vent Control Valve only and it did nothing for me (underbody lines needed to be cleaned!!!). My EVAP Vent Control Valve plunger was stuck and would not move. I decided to replace it and didn’t bother testing it. You can follow the same 12V solenoid test above to verify that it is working. This part is a common failure on these cars from what I’ve read.
As mentioned earlier, cars produced up to and including 4/97 will need the valve that has a flat face and a canister which requires an O-Ring. Cars made after 4/97 will need the other style valve which has a nipple and O-ring that pushes into the canister. I do not know if you can use the later model canister on the earlier 4th gens but the canister must use the corresponding valve. The sensors cost about the same but the canister is $28 more for the earlier version. Do not buy these parts from Autozone/Advance/Pep Boys, they are usually $50 more than what RockAuto.com sells the exact same part for.
Try not to damage the O-ring when removing the valve, the replacement part does not come with a new one. Also, DO NOT overtighten the valve to the canister because the bolt can cause the nut on the canister to start stripping the plastic and removal without damaging the canister/valve becomes impossible. If you think the seal is not adequate on the new replacement parts, use some RTV silicone. I was able to get away without using RTV.
EVAP Water Separator I did not clean or remove this part. It has the thick hose that connects to the EVAP Vent Control Valve. Use some compressed air inside the hose just to make sure there are no charcoal particles in there.
Vacuum Cut Valve & Vacuum Cut Bypass Valve Remove the small hose that comes from the fuel tank to the Vacuum Cut Valve and unbolt that assembly from the car. Leave the Vacuum Cut Bypass Valves intact with the hoses. Lightly blow some air through the two open ports on the Vacuum Cut Valve. I am not sure if this is necessary but I did it anyway. Perform the same 12V solenoid test on the Vacuum Cut Bypass Valve. Vacuum Cut Valve: https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor…nid=459&jpid=1 Vacuum Cut Bypass Valve: https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor…nid=457&jpid=0
EVAP Pressure Sensor Unbolt the senor and remove the hose carefully. This sensor has about a 1″ plastic nipple. Follow the test procedure on the bottom of FSM EC-335 and refer to this video from 4:58-8:48: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QnVU…ature=youtu.be
Cleaning the Purge Lines Refer to this TSB under the Step Motor Purge Volume Control Valve for non-99s: http://www.lyberty.com/car/Maxima_A3…NTB00-085a.pdf You should have all the lines and sensors isolated by now. My rubber hose under the hood coming off the EVAP Purge Cut Valve was completely blocked with charcoal particles. I was unable to even squeeze the hose with my fingers! Start at the front and keep working your way back and forth sending air both ways. Keep an eye on your pressure because you don’t want to cause any leaks on the rubber hoses. Keep doing this until the air blows free and clean. When this is done right, you will end up with charcoal particles all over your intake manifold and under the spare tire. It’s a good idea to cover up the exposed hoses you have in the engine bay so you don’t get debris in other lines. Once that is done, plug one end of the line and perform a vacuum test to verify there are no air leaks and the rubber hoses and metal are good from throughout the underbody.
Gas Cap I’ve heard that this could be causing issues with pressure in the system. For a $5 part, you may want to try this first providing that your EVAP canister is not busted and already clogged your entire system.
At this point you can re-install everything back on the car. Make sure all vacuum lines are connected properly and free of any tears/cracks especially from moving stubborn hose clamps. Reset your ECU because you may have various codes from turning the ignition on with the system/sensors disconnected (P0440, P0443, P0446, P0450, P1441, P1445, etc)
After you reset the ECU follow this TSB for the drive cycle pattern based on your year, page 24-27: http://www.lyberty.com/car/Maxima_A3…NTB98-018c.pdf This applies to 96/97, I am not sure how different the other years are but I was never able to get an ECU ready in such a short time. We would not have access of knowing the B/F schedule but try to follow everything else. The 5spd ECU only knows if the transmission is in Neutral, Reverse or in any of the 5 gears (not the specific individual gears) but I’m sure the load the engine sees in the gears listed may give the proper B/F schedule.
After performing all these steps with ~½ of gas and never filling up, I am pleased to report that I passed inspection with 2 monitors being not ready. Currently, I have 1 more showing not ready which is my 02 sensor. I installed one of those spark plug non-fouler to avoid the P0420 code I was getting possibly due to my replacement 02 sensor combined with an aftermarket y-pipe, and high flow cat.
I hope this write-up will help people get rid of the annoying P1447 code. I tried to type everything out while it’s still fresh in my head. If you have any questions or comments, don’t hesitate to ask.
This write-up is for a 2000-01 VI manifold swap on to 95-99 Maxima. There are many ways to do this swap so first I will number the ways I know how to do this and then go into detail on how to do it. There are a couple of different Upper manifolds you can get Fed spec. or Cali Spec the difference is one may not have the swirl valve control (don’t need it anyway). I believe (don’t quote me on this) that the 00 Fed Spec do not have the swirl valve control and all 01 (Fed and Cali) do not have the hole for the EGR guide tube. You may want to ask the People from the Junkyard this because you want to know this if you are going to keep the EGR or not.
(note when I say 00 that means both 2000-2001 unless I specifically say otherwise for that part)
00 Upper and Lower (Fed spec), 00 Fuel rail & injectors or 01 QX4 fuel rail & injectors (they are the same because I am using the QX4 fuel rail and inj.), 00 Throttle Body w/ 00 IACV, 00 EGR guide tube. (no adaptors needed for this)
00 Upper and Lower (Fed or Cali), 00 Fuel R&Inj. Or 01 QX4 Fuel R&Inj, 00 TB w/ 00 IACV, and running no EGR. (Make a plate to cover the hole in the manifold)
00 Upper and Lower, 00 Fuel R&Inj or 01 QX4 Fuel R&Inj, 00 TB w 4th gen IACV (need a adaptor plate made for the 4th gen IACV), and 00 EGR guide tube or no EGR (need to make a plate to cover the hole)
00 Upper and Lower, 00 Fuel R&Inj or 01 QX4 Fuel R&Inj, Pathfinder TB (need a adaptor plate made) 4th gen IACV (need a adaptor plate made), and 00 EGR guide tube or no EGR (need to make a plate to cover the hole).
00 Upper and Lower, 00 Fuel R&Inj or 01 QX4 Fuel R&Inj, 4th gen TB (need a adaptor plate made) 4th gen IACV (need a adaptor plate made), and 00 EGR guide tube or no EGR (need to make a plate to cover the hole).
00 Upper and 4th gen Lower, 4th gen Fuel R&Inj, 00 TB w/ 00 IACV, and 00 EGR guide Tube or no EGR (need to make a plate to cover the hole).
00 Upper and 4th gen lower, 4th gen Fuel R&Inj, 4th gen TB, 4th gen IACV, 00 EGR guide tube or no EGR.
00 Upper and 4th gen lower, 4th gen Fuel R&Inj, Pathfinder TB, 4th gen IACV, 00 EGR guide tube or no EGR (need to make a plate to cover the hole).
I think those are all the different ways that u can do the swap parts wise. In addition to those parts listed above you need to get:
a lot of new hoses (different sizes), some fittings and tees.
new gaskets for the 00 lower, the upper should not need new gaskets since they are rubber (unless they are torn)
Bolts for the upper manifold (8 of them) unless it came with it, should be able to reuse the lower manifold’s bolts.
New bolts for the VIAS back cover (metal cover) and the vacuum switch (just a suggestion because you might have to take it off later and the OEM screws strip easy).
Bolts for the 00 TB, if you are going with the 4th gen or Pathy TB you will have to find out from the person you get the adapter plates from what bolts are needed.
Adapter Plates for 4th gen TB, 4th gen IACV, or Pathy TB
Cover Plates for EGR or 00 IACV (explain later)
JB weld the liquid type and JB weld Stick
New different PCV w/hoses
Dremel or grinder
socket set (deep as well as regular) you will mainly use 14mm, 12mm, 11mm, 10mm so get those in deep socket.
Flathead, and Phillips head screwdrivers
Prep. work, before you start installing you want to do a couple of things:
If you are using the 5th gen lower and it has the swirl valve, remove everything so it’s just like the 4th gen (See PIC 4 below). Once it’s removed use some the JB Weld Stick to cover the holes so there will be no leaks. I just plugged the two outside holes (see pic the holes are highlighted in red.)
Also, you want to either fix or just prevent the VIAS from breaking by using the regular liquid JB Weld. If you want to you can replace the bolts that hold the VIAS solenoid and the metal plate on the there side in place (see pic). I had to because one of the screws stripped on me so I went to Home Depot & bought a kit that removes stripped bolts or screws.
Fuel rail depending if you went with the 2000 Maxima fuel rail you will have to buy something like that (see pic 1 & 2 ), and if you used The 01 QX4 fuel rail you can do what I did (see pic 3). I took off the piece you see in the pic and used a grinder to cut off the extra metal tube and bent it into place so it would reach the fuel line hose. It did not line up exactly with the hole so I just screwed in one side of the fitting and have no problems with it. I made it just like the 4th gen fuel set up wise (like the place of the FPR).
First go to the fuse box located on the dash of you car and remove the fuel pump fuse. Then you want to start your car and let it run until it dies, do this process until you can’t start you car at all. This will remove most of the fuel out of your fuel rail and injectors.
Next up remove your intake (note: I would label all of you hose either by marking it with something or with numbered stickers, and right it down in a note book what it means).
On the Throttle body disconnect the plugs from the TBS and the cables. Now get a towel or a container so you can catch the antifreeze when you remove the hoses on the bottom of the Throttle body. Once you have everything disconnected from the TB remove the (12mm) bolts in the throttle body.
Start disconnecting all three coil packs, IACV plugs, and other wires to clear up space when removing the upper manifold.
After you have the TB off start removing all hoses and components that are on the upper intake manifold and labeling them. When you have everything off the upper manifold, begin removing the bolts in the front of the upper manifold (note: there are 2 bolts on the back of the upper manifold that you will have to remove). Remove the ERG guide as well.
For those that are using 4th gen fuel rail and 4th gen lower manifold skip to preparing the engine for the upper manifold. If you using the 5th gen parts read on
Once the upper manifold is remove began removing the fuel rail, I remove the fuel hoses first (I placed a towel around the hose from the fuel filter to the fuel rail so gas would not spill onto the engine). Then remove the bolts for both the fuel rail and lower manifold.
Once you have removed the lower 4th gen manifold you can now place the 5th gen lower manifold and bolt it up.
Then you can put then new fuel rail on the lower (if you are using a 2001 QX4 one or to of the holes will not line up, like mines, but it will still be good). The next thing you don’t have to do I just did: you’ll need the rubber washers that came of your old fuel injectors to place them around each of your new injectors. I did this because there was a gap from the lower manifold to the fuel injectors. After you bolt the fuel rail down it’s time to cut the old 4th gen fuel injector connectors off and solder them (or connect them anyway you want to) to the 5th gen connectors. Most people don’t like cutting wires but it’s not hard. Also, you need to grind the fuel rail (I bolted them down onto the lower manifold because it was the easiest location for me.) Now get some of the new hoses that you should have purchased and connect them from the fuel filter to fuel rail and fuel rail to fuel filter.
Preparing the engine for the upper manifold
Now that the lower manifold and fuel rail are on, cover up the holes in the lower manifold so nothing can get inside. Remove the PCV out of your valve cover because it will not let the upper manifold sit properly on the lower manifold (later I will tell you what I did for this).
For the next part, you will need your grinder or Dremel. You will need to grind down the coil pack mounting bosses BUT ONLY THE FRONT MOUNTING BOSSES#3 AND #5( SEE PIC ABOVE). #3 and #5 are the ones to the right of you if you are standing in front of the car looking at the engine. Grind down as much as you need to just keep putting the upper manifold on to check for clearance. Once you are done clean up the mess you made grinding down the bosses.
Next up is the PCV, you should have bought a new PCV valve one that would allow you to connect to some hoses. The hose’s outside diameter should be ½ inch for it to fit in the valve case hole tight and cut it to be about 6-8 inches long. You might have to lubricate the hose for it to slide in (at least that’s what my girl keeps telling me j/k lol).
Note this is only for people that are keeping the EGR and 5th gen IACV.
If you are reading this article, you are very likely trying to resolve P0420/P0430 without having to spend a lot of money on the issue. Most of the time, the codes are due to a bad clogged catalytic converter or bad O2 sensors. Before replacing the O2 sensor, be sure to do the spacer fix modification first because O2 sensors are not cheap.
There aren’t usually any drivability issues associated with these codes. For most people, the first sign that anything is wrong at all is the check engine light. Below are the typical check engine lights you would normally get:
P0420 NISSAN – Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1
P0430 NISSAN – Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 2
You can eliminate the codes by using a spark plug non-fouler which tricks your engine computer to think that everything is working fine. This simple trick will pull the O2 sensor away from the exhaust flow and the computer will think the Catalytic converter is working properly. This will work if you remove the catalytic converter or have a bad cat. It’s very simple and cheap to do. Below is a video on how to perform the fix:
You can also buy them pre-made on eBay if you do not want to drill.
Make Your Own Spacers/Foulers
You can buy these non-fouler spacers at your local parts store. You can get them from Advanced Auto or Autozone for about $7-8 bucks.
You now need to drill out 1 of the non-foulers using a 1/2″ drill bit. When finished this is what it will look like.
O2 Sensor inserted in the modified non-fouler
Second, unmodified non-fouler now installed on modified non-fouler, then threaded into the pipe
Below are photos of the spacers installed and 100% working on Nissan Maximas by generation. After installing the spacers, the CEL codes went away.
Following up from 95maxrider’s awesome door lock actuator thread. So My ’99 developed an issue wherein all of the locks would only lock / unlock halfway. The problem got worse with the cold weather, to the point where the rear passenger side door wouldn’t unlock at all. I got tired of reaching around to manually lock all of the doors before exiting the car, so I decided to do something about it.
I figured the actuators were failing – no problem, right? I’ll just grab some from RockAuto. Well, I soon found out that the prices for our actuators have become ridiculous. The cheapest prices for the rears were about $150 each, and the fronts were about $85 each, while the 5th gen actuators are about $10-$15 each. I didn’t want to take the chance on a used JY / ebay part, so I began to look at other options. I found a set of four universal actuators on amazon for $13 shipped, and I took a chance. What’s the worst that can happen, right? if they didn’t work well, I was only out $13. Link to the actuators I purchased is here: Amazon Amazon
They arrived a few days ago and I began the project. I started with the rear d/side door. The universal actuators came with no instructions of any kind. Thankfully, the install for these things is fairly straightforward, and I’ll do my best to recap what I did. If you can install a radio / amp, you can definitely do this.
1) First, you need to remove the rear door panel. If you’ve never done this before, here is a video tutorial, thanks to pmohr:
Once you have the panel off, you’ll be looking at this (I removed the factory plastic moisture barrier):
2) The actuator is hidden behind the door frame. You can see its harness through the hole near the seat. I removed the harness by pushing a flathead screwdriver through the hole, to release the clip. Then I used a second screwdriver to pry the harness out while pressing on the clip with the 1st screwdriver. Once I had the harness out, I bolted the actuator into this spot. To get this to work, I had to break the mounting bracket that it came with. This is a great spot for the actuator, because you don’t have to drill any new holes in the door frame. You can attach it to the existing bolts in a V orientation:
4) On the factory harness, the wires that you’ll want to tap into are the brown / white and solid brown. Connect the brown/white to green, and the solid brown to the blue wire of your universal actuator. The blue wiretaps work great for this
5) Once the wires were tapped, I plugged the harness back into the OEM actuator. This was not even necessary, because the universal actuators are more than sufficient to push / pull the rods, but I insulated the taps with electrical tape and reconnected it anyway. Once your wiring is done, you’ll need to connect the universal rod to the factory rod. I bent it into this shape, fed it through the actuator, and connected it to the factory rod with the supplied clamp and screws. **IMPORTANT** – before you bolt the new rod in, make sure that the orientation is correct – if the lock is OPEN, you want the new actuator to be EXTENDED. if the lock is closed, you want the actuator to be fully retracted. I added some blue Loctite to the clamp threads as well, in the event that the screws somehow loosen up over time.
7) While I had the panel off, I decided to add some speakers to the rear doors, to give my audio some rear fill. I had some coaxials that I had taken out of my previous car, so I decided to throw them in. Slipped a 6.5″ Boom Mat baffle into the hole there to create a tighter seal and also to protect the speaker. I cut out the rear of the baffle to allow for airflow. Bolted the speaker up, wired up the crossover, and fed the input wire out of the existing door grommet, and down through the B pillar into the car. adding the rear speakers made a HUGE difference in sound! The rear speaker doesn’t interfere with the operation of the window either, since our windows only go down halfway anyway.
8) I re attached the door panel, after using a 6″ hole saw to create an opening for the sound to come through. I covered it with a grille that I spray painted. The paint dried lighter than the representation on the cap, but I was more concerned about function over form… I didn’t really care about putting a hole in the panel, because the panel was already in rough shape anyway…
9) The lock now works perfectly! Video attached:
So that was the rear. Today, I completed the front. Similar process. Here is what I did for the driver’s side: 1) Remove the front door panel (thanks again pmohr)
2) I chose this spot to mount the actuator. Before I screwed it in, I made sure that the panel would clip on properly without being obstructed by the actuator. It did, so there it went. Be sure to measure the new rod before you bolt it in place, because I had to clip off about 2 to 3″ of it for this application. Once I had the correct length, I fed the rod through the actuator, pushed the rod through the clamp, and then I snapped the clamp onto the factory rod. Applied some loctite and screwed it down. Of course, I managed to lose one of the screws. There are supposed to be two screws securing the new clamp to the factory rod, and one screw securing the clamp to the new rod. It held fine with one screw, so I proceeded.
3) I already had some sound dampening material on my front doors, so I had to peel some of it back to access the wiring harness for the front actuator. It runs along the bottom of the door. I pulled it inside of my kilmat, and stripped away some of the plastic conduit to expose the wires. Same deal here as the rear, you want the brown / white and solid brown wires. Since the new actuator is at the top, and the wiring is at the bottom, I had to extend the wires. I crimped on some 14ga cable, wrapped it up, and ran it down to the factory harness. Used the blue wire taps again, wiring done!
4) Tested the new actuator, works perfectly! The lock snaps open and closed as if it were brand new. Video attached:
5) Wrapped everything up with tape, put some kilmat over the new actuator to help protect it (probably not necessary, but didn’t hurt anything).
6) Once I confirmed everything was working correctly, I put the door panel back on. It snapped right back into place. No resistance or snags of any kind. Well guys, the verdict is that these actuators are a definite hit for $13. I mean, that comes out to about $3.25 per door. So if anyone out there is in a similar position, I definitely recommend giving this a shot if you’d rather not drop about $500 on replacement bolt-on actuators. I hope that this thread can be helpful to some. Hopefully I didn’t leave anything out. If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask.