How to Test: P1320-PLUG TEST
Part Number: 28351-89901
Description: CONDENSER IGNITION COIL
Price: $10.00 – $12.00
1995-1999 4thgen Nissan Maxima
2000-2001 5thgen Nissan Maxima
2002-2003 5thgen Nissan Maxima
Community Member Credit: O.Moore
Order Link: https://gromaudio.com/
Community Member Credit: Gerson Flores
Community Member Credit: Dana Berger
Community Member Credit: alpha35_eau_rouge
Community Member Credit: JakeOfAllTrades
The plastic tube below is the “Sound Generator”. The Sound Generator is the noise you hear that makes your car sound as if it is shifting and it kinda gives a Growling noise when you jump on the CVT.
Nissan made the Sound Generator and piped it into the interior of our cars so that we can hear it and make it seem as though the CVT is going through the gears because without it (Sound Generator) the car/CVT was too quiet and we wouldn’t know what’s going on.
This is the cap I got. it was $2.90 at Lowes.
This is the rubber intake hose I removed to get at the plastic noisemaker tube. It connects the airbox and throttle body.
As you can see, there are three hose clamps that needed to be removed to take the intake hose out. I started by removing the cover from the air filter box. I needed to remove the hose clamp and then also disconnect the mass airflow sensor and the cable ties that held it in place. Here’s what it looked like after I removed the airbox lid exposing my air filter (red filter at bottom of the picture).
After I loosened all three hose clamps. I just pulled up and out on the rubber tube and the plastic “noisemaker” slid out (it was held to the rubber tube with another hose clamp, but I didn’t need to loosen this one until after I got it out). Here’s the rubber intake hose with the plastic noisemaker still attached (It’s resting on the battery in the picture).
I then removed the plastic noisemaker and secured the cap over the hole. I could actually tighten it fairly tight, I kept checking the inside of the hole to make sure it wasn’t collapsing, and it withheld quite a bit of pressure.
After that, I just hooked the rubber intake hose back into place and tightened all the hose clamps back down.
BAM. Quiet cabin.
Community Member Credit: Christopher-Kamala Garcia
This is just for reference purposes on a member that has used these coilpacks. Most people just go OEM but this is a good reference for those who choose this route. We recommend sticking with OEM.
Description: PACK OF 6 PERFORMANCE IGNITION COILS FOR NISSAN ALTIMA MAXIMA MURANO QUEST 3.5L
Order Link: https://www.npboosted.com/collections/nissan-ignition-coils/products/pack-of-6-performance-ignition-coils-for-nissan-altima-maxima-murano-quest-3-5l
Community Member Credit: maxud
I have a 2009 Maxima SV with both electric tilt and telescoping functions. I am at 92k miles and recently my tilt motor stopped adjusting the steering wheel, I know, first-world problems here. I know the motor still worked because you can hear it moving what’s left of the gear.
I did some research and yes, you can buy a new motor from Nissan for $200. However, in my research, I ran into this product – Dorman 905-522. At this point in time, it’s a poorly made product and badly advertised as well. Nowhere, does it say that it’s compatible with 09 Maxima, though later Maxima’s are on the compatibility list. I saw a single review of this product on amazon and decided to take a plunge.
Yesterday, I had the “pleasure” of repairing my motor. So the product comes with new shafts and molded on Nylon gears as well as C-clips and some grease. It also comes with pretty good instructions on the actual repair.
To start with, you want to follow Nissan’s TSB on replacing one of these motors. Here is a link for you: 2012-04-13_225900_09_maxima_steering_column_bulletin
Once you have the motor out, you follow a couple of steps from Dorman’s manual, specifically:
At this point you should confirm that your old nylon gear is busted, mine had a whole chunk of gear missing. Assembly is reverse of disassembly.
But here is some bad news and good news.
Bad news first: When I tried to spin the adjustment block on the new shaft, the block was getting bound up in many spots, so there are problems with threads on these replacement parts. Since I have gone so far with the repair, I did not want to put the old broken part back in. What I did is used small files to file down the metal threads on the new shaft. I basically put some taper on the shaft threads and after about 2.5 hours of manual labor, the adjustment block would thread on smoothly without any issues.
Of course, it’s completely asinine to expect a person to file down metal threads to get the part to work. So here comes some mixed news that hopefully will turn into good news soon. This morning I contacted Dorman about my experience and they told me that they know of this issue and the product is supposed to have been put on hold with no further sales taking place until they retool and fix the issue. They were not able to tell me when the new product will be available, but hopefully soon. I left a 3-star review for this product on Amazon, and hopefully, when Dorman gets a new design done I will be able to update it to a 5-star review.
The good news is that there is no need to purchase $200+ new motors and throw out a perfectly good motor with broken plastic gear. The Dorman kit cost me $35 shipped from RockAuto, the kit includes both tilt and telescoping motor shafts. The R&R of the motor, given a proper shaft, is no more than 30 mins and that is taking things apart slowly. I can do it in 5mins now. For crafty guys, the threads on these shafts are M10 x 2.0. I don’t have a die or thread chaser this size, as a matter of fact, it’s a very oddball size that’s not easily gotten.
I do have some pics, but frankly, between the TSB and Dorman manual, you should have no issues taking things out and putting it all together.
Old nylon gear broke, chunk of it is missing
New Dorman gear side by side with old one
Old gear, notice that the shaft threads have a small taper to them. The gear also still has the bearing (shiny silver disk) still on it.
Tilt motor completely disassembled in the wise.
Tilt motor reassembled with new shaft.
A follow-up on my repair. Sometime last fall I had an issue with my repaired tilt motor. One morning it just gave out, but the next day resumed its function. I opted to simply adjust the steering wheel and turn off the easy-entry function.
I was not sure what was wrong with the motor and thought that perhaps the motor itself is giving out. The telescoping motor died sometime earlier, don’t recall when exactly. After the initial repair in 2015, I did receive an “updated” part from Dorman in 2016. That kit was on the shelf until yesterday.
Since I got time on my hands, I decided to fix both motors. Followed my own links to get the motors out, but ran into an issue with removing the telescoping motor out. Mine died in a position that was very close to the dash, preventing easy motor removal.
The procedure explains that you want to pull on the steering wheel while actuating the motor to completely telescope/retract it out. I was not successful in that procedure. What I did instead was used a prybar between the white bushing and the rest of the steering column. It did not require much effort and applying prybar pressure while actuating the motor accomplished the task. Note that the motor had to be bolted in while performing the task.
On the positive side, I had no issues whatsoever with redesigned Dorman parts this time around. Both shafts were a perfect match for factory threads and no time had to be wasted to file anything down. I can wholeheartedly recommend the Dorman kit vs buying new factory motors or even salvage ones. Again, the most important part is to mark the relative position of how parts are put together prior to disassembly. After replacing the shafts, just realign things to the marks that you made and preloads will be perfect.
Community Member Credit: Maxxi12
I recently toyed around with the idea of putting an intake in my Max, so I started reading some threads on here. After looking at the posts and my own engine bay it’s pretty obvious that all intakes are pretty much going to be the same for this car…there’s only one place to go. The filter on the end of it is really the only variable.
So, I went with a bit of a gamble and got a little known (but all over the bay) intake kit from a company called Check Point Tuning, or CPT for short. They have two options for their kits, $99.95 for one that comes with what looks like a ‘Spectre’ type knock-off filter, and $139.95 for the same pipe – but with a K&N filter included. I went with option B. At that price it undercuts K&N’s own air intake system’s price by more than half, and K&N is already on the cheaper end of the spectrum for intakes. So, I’m putting this review out there for people like me, who want to check out their options and maybe came across this low price company on the bay.
Now to get this out there…what every other thread out there for the 7th gen Maxima says is true. No out of the box intake swap will gain power in this car. I’ve built true CAI’s for other cars before and the stock system truly is about the best you can do performance wise. It’s pretty well thought out. So, you won’t be gaining mad VTEC or anything, but if you go into it for the sound, like I did, you won’t be disappointed.
That being said, while I didn’t gain any performance I don’t feel like I lost any either. Driving dynamics are essentially unchanged. So that’s a plus. No low end power loss or any other abnormalities.
Sound wise, well it’s just nifty. Google Maxima K&N intake video and you’ve got the sound, it’s nice. Noticeable even in low RPMs but obviously gets more so as the engine is pushed. Sounds just as great as the 2x expensive name brand with exactly the same level of protection. All around fantastic, unless you’re my gas card.
Now, for the negative –
Yes, it does come with instructions. They are not very good. I suppose that’s because I’m a visual person and I like diagrams, but I’d say if you’ve never really worked on an engine or installed an intake…WITHOUT instructions…this may not be the kit for you. I had to double back a couple of times just because things weren’t completely clear.
Secondly, my third drive after the installation did throw a check engine light. My car had been running and driving as smooth as ever so I knew there was nothing wrong. I cleared the code and it hasn’t come back in days, so I think I’m in the clear. Just a false code more than likely, but still something that others may face.
Lastly, it does come with a heat ‘shield’ but it doesn’t do much. Again though, with these cars there just isn’t any cold air to pull unless you custom build or use the factory intake. Don’t buy a kit and expect performance…it’s all about the sound pretty much, so spend your money on a good filter. The pipe and the shield really won’t matter when compared to other kits.
All in all – great value. That great VQ sound is there, NO performance loss (or gain), and I spent less than half (or even less than that) of the price of the name brand kits with the same K&N protection. What’s not to like?
Please excuse the dirty engine pics. It’s been a long summer.