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my6thgen 04-08

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Community Member Credit: Rico Rodriguez

Big shout to Rico for spending countless hours in finding a cost-effective solution to coilpacks for the VQ35DE engine. This also works on other models and years.

For those that don’t know, Audi coilpacks are stronger and better than Nissan coilpacks. They add better mpg and more HP/TQ. It works on bone stock vehicles or highly modified vehicles. Just rewire the OEM pigtails to Audi pigtails, plug it in and play!

Nissan Coilpack only has 1 coil. Audi has 2 coils as you can see in the picture below. By having 2 coils it doubles the spark output and can easily handle spark blow out that turbocharged vehicles suffer from. Because it’s outer exterior has a metal body it can dissipate heat ALOT quicker than Nissan rubber which helps with heat cycling. It’s also cheaper than OEM Nissan Coilpacks.

Audi R8 Coil Pack Advantages:

  • 50,000 volts compared to Nissans/Infiniti 30,000 volts.
    • Some measure it with Kv so Nissans coils put out 21Kv while VW coils put out 30Kv
  • Quicker Heat dissipation. (Because of its metal body construction it can quickly dissipate heat. Nissan OEM body is made out of rubber that isolates heat instead of disperses it.)
  • More complete burn of the fuel mixture compared to OEM Nissan which equals to better MPG.
  • Idle Stability Improved
  • NO CEL (Check Engine Lights)
  • BEST PART ABOUT THEM IS THEY ARE CHEAPER $$$ than Nissan OEM yet they are much better.
  • Looks 10000% Cooler than OEM Coilpacks

Now the coil packs price varies due to different name brands. They range from $132-$216 for a V6 engine. Below is the link of the coil packs below so you can see the prices and brands. Doesn’t matter which brand you use, I’ve tested them all and they all make the same exact power.

Order Link: https://www.nedautoparts.com/search?q=Audi+coilpack

Reference Photos

Installed a 2003 Nissan Maxima (Credit: Altaf Rahaman)

Important Note: The 02-08 DE Manifold requires NWP spacers.

Important Note: The 2nd Gen Engine does not require spacers. Straight plug-n-play.

Adaptor Options:

You can also purchase the adapters directly from Rico. Below are the prices.

Create Connectors using O2 Plugs (Credit: Rob Tilley)

Finally got my R8 coils installed today and I must say it was definitely worth the time and money I spent. I installed them on my turbo 350z running 15psi with #7 plugs. Car runs so much smoother, especially under boost. It’s a totally different car. I used o2 plugs from a 02/03 Maxima to make the adapters for the plug. Just have to file down the alignment guide on the outside of the blue connector.

Make your Own Clean Connectors using new Plugs: https://www.my4dsc.com/audi-r8-coilpacks-installed-on-nissan-maxima-vq35de-make-your-own-plug-n-play-connectors/

If you’re splicing directly (Courtesy of Jerome Fenwick)

Nissan OEM Coilpack vs Audi R8 Price Difference (Courtesy of EddyMaxx)

Community Member Credit: EddyMaxx

So while I was doing the Window Motor, I took the time to do my LED Mirror Covers and add LED’s to the side door pockets. The MAXI-LED mirror covers were created by a fellow member years ago. They were a limited run and are no longer made. I think they look great and clean. Some people did the 7thgen Mirror but they are not heated and do not have not auto-fold.

LED Mirror Covers

Side Door Pocket LEDs

Member Credit: Albert Jandura

If you are looking to customize the lighting of LED’s on your Nissan Maxima cluster/odometer, you will need to re-calibrate the needles. The needles need to come off as part of the modification process and if not properly calibration the RPMs and MPH readings will be off.

Many of the 6thgen members like to upgrade their 04-05 clusters to the revised and improved 07-08 clusters with custom LEDs. This procedure will allow you to calibrate your needle easily.  Save money by doing it yourself.

OPERATION PROCEDURE

  1. Turn ignition switch ON, and switch the odo/trip meter to “trip A” or “trip B”.
    NOTE: If the diagnosis function is activated with trip meter A displayed, the mileage on trip meter A will indicate 0000.0 miles, but the actual trip mileage will be retained. (Trip B operates the same way.)
  2. Turn ignition switch OFF.
  3. While pushing the odo/trip meter switch (1), turn ignition switch ON again.
  4. Make sure the trip meter displays “0000.0”.
  5. Push the odo/trip meter switch (1) at least 3 times within 5 seconds.
  6. All the segments on the odo/trip meter and CVT indicator illuminate, and simultaneously the low-fuel warning lamp indicator illuminates. At this time, the unified meter control unit is turned to diagnosis mode.
  7. Push the odo/trip meter switch. Each meter/gauge should indicate as shown in the figure while pushing odo/trip meter switch. (At this time, the low-fuel warning lamp goes off.)
  8. Remove/re-insert needles in the same position below (as seen in the photo below) during the calibration process

 

This is a popular upgrade for the VQ35DE Engine. Below is the information you need when ordering these pulleys. These pulleys fit the Nissan Maxima VQ35DE Engine from 2002-2008. Also applies to 4thgens if you have a VQ35DE Swap.

Ralco RZ pulleys are designed with a unique blend of performance and reliability. They are made from the highest quality 6061 aluminum billet. Ralco RZ pulley conversions are proven to produce maximum power gains with the performance benefits of weight reduction, which you wouldn’t receive from factory parts. Throttle response, horsepower, and torque are all increased with this great product.

Features:

  • 6061 Aluminum Billet
  • Lightweight
  • Note: Crank pulley Polished

Stock-Diameter Ralco Pulley (Part #: RZ-914924)

Fitment

MakeModelYearsApplication Notes
InfinitiI352002-2003(Crank Only) (Polished Color) , Stock Size Light Weight, I35 3.5L DOHC 24V FWD Auto,Manual L31 VQ35DE
NissanAltima2002-2006(Crank Only) (Polished Color) , Stock Size Light Weight, SE 3.5L DOHC 24V FWD Auto,Manual A34 VQ35DE
NissanAltima2005-2006(Crank Only) (Polished Color) , Stock Size Light Weight, SE-R 3.5L DOHC 24V FWD Auto,Manual A34 VQ35DE
NissanMaxima2002-2006(Crank Only) (Polished Color) , Stock Size Light Weight, SE, SL 3.5L DOHC 24V FWD Auto,Manual A34 VQ35DE
NissanMurano2003-2006(Crank Only) (Polished Color) , Stock Size Light Weight, S, SE, SL 3.5L DOHC 24V AWD,FWD Auto,Manual FF-L VQ35DE

Under-Drive Ralco Pulley (Part #: RZ-914870)

  • Pulley Model: # 914870
  • Average Price: $125.00-$139.00
  • Recommended Belt Sizes
    – Alternator/AC Belt- 41.5″ (Gates K060408)
    – Power Steering Belt- 30.75″ (Gates K040300)
  • Order Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/264406309369

Stock-Size Photos:

Under-Drive Photos:

Videos:

Community Member Credit: nismopc

Well, I did the STS mod today using a bolt and did not like the final version. I originally posted my results in the Free STS post, but decided this was worthy of a new post due to finding the perfect parts to make a perfect STS for less than $2 dollars.

So being bored on this wet Sunday evening, I went to Lowe’s and found the exact part I needed for a DIYer STS.

My original STS was done by drilling a 5/16 hole through the shifter arm and then cutting off the threaded part of a long 5/16 bolt and drilling a small hole for the cotter pin. It was a OK job, but I noticed the bolt allowed for a lil too much play with the shifter cable. Not pleased.

I picked this up from Lowe’s. It is a 5/16×2 Clevis Pin. Just a slight bit bigger in diameter than the bolt and a perfect match to the factory shifter cable connector. Perfect match!

Part Name: Hillman 2-in Clevis Pin
Item: 138646
Model: #881076
Description: Clevis pin – adjustable 5/16 x 2 1pc/bag Adjustable

Here is the Clevis Pin installed from below. I had to tap it in place from under the car due to a very tight fit from surrounding items. Look at how it is the same exact height as the factory pin.

Here is the final install with factory pin in place. I originally was gonna use a cotter pin but decided to use the factory one instead. Easier to remove if needed.

Additional Reference via trooplewis

Thought I would share some additional hints if you haven’t messed with stuff like this before, and post a few pictures.

First step, get rid of all the air intake plumbing!

You need to loosen the hose clamp around the pleated rubber that connects to the throttle body, you need to remove the breather hose where it connects to the block, you need to pinch the clip and pull off the MAF connector, and then you need to remove 4 screws to take out all the air intake plumbing.

That takes 5 or 6 minutes if you have not done it before.

When that plastic crap is off, this is what you will see. The area you are going to be working in is in the lower right of this photo, under that red electrical connection you see. Speaking of which, watch your drill, make sure the chuck is not spinning against it. You don’t want to mess up the wires or the connector there.

The hole you are going to drill is DEEP, I don’t think anyone mentioned that before. It is about an inch of metal you drill through. I used regular 30-wt motor oil to keep the tip of the 5/16 bit cool, putting a few drops into the hole every couple minutes. I just took my time, running the drill at a slow speed with moderate pressure on it. If you drill on high speed, you better have some really nice bits or you are going to destroy them. Take your time.

Drill a pilot hole first with a 3/16 or 1/8 inch bit, but then you can use a sharp 5/16 to go all the way through. You do not have to drill the hole twice with 2 bits, just get your pilot hole set so the 5/16 doesn’t “walk” the surface metal. The drilling took about 20 minutes.

I got the same clevis pin at Lowes, but it didn’t fit neatly into the new hole, as there were burrs on the holes in the pin. I had to put it in a vise and take some crocus cloth to it to smooth it down, then it worked OK.

Here is a photo of the location where I put the hole. NOTE in this image the pin is upside down, just there for the purpose of seeing the location. You have to install the pin from below.

OK, I don’t know if anyone can put the clevis pin in from above the car; not enough area to get your hand into. I jacked up the front of the car (be safe!) and crawled under, still could not get my hand with the pin in my fingers up into that area.

I ended up using one of those long magnetic flexible things you use to get nuts and bolts out of hard to get places that they fall into. I put the clevis pin on the magnet and got it up through the hole then an assistant grabbed and held it while I got out from under the car.

I used needle nosed pliers to hold the lower part of the pin while I slid the linkage back over it, and installed the factory lock clip. You can see the end result in this photo.

Nothing binds, everything works well, and the “smile factor” is definitely there. I don’t think this mod affects the side-to-side movement of the shift knob, but it has a big impact on the up-down travel of the shift handle. Way shorter throw, I did not notice a change in ‘notchiness’, but it is a lot of fun.

You will notice I did not re-install the factory washer, I could not get it to fit under the hole the lock pin slides through. I don’t think that will have any effect on the shifting of the car or the life of the bushing in that location.

Took me about an hour and a half from the time I popped the hood to the time I drove out and tested it.

If you need OEM flywheel bolts, below is the information you need. It’s best to buy them in larger quantities due to the overall shipping costs. You will need a total of 8 bolts. These are honestly best to get from your local Nissan dealer to save on shipping.

OEM Part Number: 12315-8J100
Total Quantity Needed:
8 Bolts
Price: $1.99 – $2.50 (each)

Torx Size: T55
FSM Torque Specs: 61 to 69 ft lb

Cart Summary via https://www.rockawaynissanparts.com/p/Nissan__Altima/Clutch-Flywheel-Bolt/89394231/12315-ZA000.html

 

Owner: Ham A.

Year: 2008
Model: Nissan Maxima
Color: Majestic Blue Pearl (BW9)
Trim: SL

What motivated you to MOD your Maxima?

My inspiration to mod the maxima was my desire to be different and mod a platform so few have really explored. Those few were the OG’s that have moved on. I want to carry on the tradition and maybe inspire someone else to go above and beyond – Ham

Full Mod List / Specs:

Exterior

  • Majestic Blue – BW9 Paint
  • Stillen side skirts
  • Stillen roof spoiler
  • Custom DB Front Lip
  • Weather tech in-channel rain guards
  • Ruby Red LED tail lights (custom painted)
  • Custom headlights and fog lights
    • Hydro dipped inner pieces (kooky Skulls and blue carbon fiber)
    • Dual Halos on projectors (inside orange, Outside White)
    • White Halos in fog lights
    • White Iron man LEDs
    • Dual COB LED’s (White)
    • Conversion to HELLA E55 Projectors with clear lenses

Interior

  • Elite Conversion (rear bucket seats)
  • Custom two-tone interior (black and tan leather, with double diamond stitching)
    • Seats including headrest
    • Headrest pillows, front and rear
    • Steering wheel
    • Shift knob
    • Headliner inner
    • Cluster hood
    • Dash trim
    • Upper door panels
  • Black suede interior pieces
    • A,B & C Pillars
    • Lower door panels
    • Door panel trim
    • Headliner outer
  • Custom LED door sills
  • VIP tables, head rest and front dash (by Flossed VIP)
  • Custom Copper plated door props and hood prop

Engine

  • Copper Plated Items
    • SFR manifold – Copper Plated
    • Takeda CAI
    • Mishmoto Radiator
    • Stillen Strut Bar and strut plates
    • Stillen Oil cap
    • 6 Piece cap set (Windshield Res, Power Steering , Dip stick, Radiator Res, AC caps)
    • Stainless Steel and Copper penny washer set (220 piece kit, still installing)
    • Custom Battery terminals
    • Custom Battery Tie down
    • Copper braided techflex
  • DC 320amp Alternator

In Car Entertainment (ICE)

  • Source Unit
    • Kenwood Excelon X997
  • Mids-Highs- Lows
    • Rainbow Germanium dual 6.5” mid-bass (custom door panels)
    • Rainbow Germanium 5.5” Mid (in custom kick panels)
    • Rainbow Germanium 1” silk dome tweeters (custom molded in A pillars)
  • Subs
    • Focal 11” Free Air woofers Infinite baffle suspended off rear deck
  • Amplification
    • Helix A2 Competition to handle subs
    • Helix A4 (2) to run Mids-Highs-Lows
  • Processing
    • Helix DSP 8ch processor

MISC

  • Focal sound deadener in doors and trunk lid
  • Custom Made RCA cables, amp rack
  • Custom LED conversion on all switches, Info Screen, AC screen, AC knobs and speedometer
  • Hydro dipped speedometer shroud, inner shifter bezel, door switch plates, radio bezel, AC vent bezel’s (blue carbon fiber)

Wheels

  • Work Gnosis
  • Copper Plated
  • 19×9.5 +15 and 19×10.5 +25

Air Suspension

  • Accuair management with switch speed
  • Airtekk air struts
  • Viaair 480C compressors (custom wrapped bodies)
  • Dual custom painted 3 gallon air tanks, with Accuair bracketry (5 gallon hidden tank under floor)
  • Stainless Steel hard line system
  • Dakota Digital air sensors (display custom flush mounted to cubby door on dash)

Brakes

  • G35 Brembo Front conversion with stainless steel lines – Custom powder coated blue
  • Slotted and cross drilled rotors

Art Work by Nutty World Graphics

  • Custom painted trunk lid
  • Custom painted amp rack cover
  • Custom painted floor board

SPECIAL THANKS AND GRATITUDE. Without these folks, this car would not be possible.

  • Raul Gonzalez – AKA Mr. Dolla, AKA @tuneonthego
  • Eddy Perez – AKA EddyMaxx
  • RJ White – AKA Mr. Angry
  • Ed Mendoza – AKA Nutty World Graphics
  • Albert Jandura – AKA LED King
  • Kenlly Espinal – AKA Kenji, AKA Dominican Papi, AKA Mr. Mangu
  • Shayne O’Laughlin – AKA Iirishsamurai