my6thgen 04-08


Thanks to Kirill, we just ordered a set of “Street” Selector Springs for our 2002 6-Speed Supercharged 5thgen Maxima. Will post a review afterward. You can order these via Vision1Racing Facebook Page. The owner Peter will get back to you quickly. This is only for the manual FWD RS6 6-Speed  and RS5 5-Speed Transmissions. Also, if you are having issues with reverse just make sure the spring cup on the larger spring is not upside down.

Overview & Purpose from Vision1Racing

From the factory, Nissan utilizes two springs within the transmission to “center” the shifter in the 3/4 gate. These OEM springs are very weak and often cause 3rd gear lockout issues when attempting to quickly shift. This is simply due to the driver overpowering the spring’s ability to line up the shift mechanism in the 3rd gear fork. VisionOneRacing offers two kits to fit the driver’s needs.

Our Street Kit is 200% stiffer than the factory and provides a nice, crisp feel. This is truly how it should have come from the factory. Our Race Kit utilizes a higher grade spring steel and is over 300% stiffer than the factory. This will provide the necessary “kick” to the shifter when slamming them gears down the track.

Both kits have received excellent feedback and have propelled the V1R Sentra into the 9’s, being the first QR to do so. They have also helped send the all-motor Maxima into the 10’s with many other success stories along the way!

It’s also worth noting that I highly recommend aftermarket shifter bushings when using our Race Kit. These can be had from 2J Racing among others.

Price Options: Street Kit $45.00 Shipped / Race Kit $60.00 Shipped


Installation Video:

Scanned Installation Instructions:

If you are installing a turbo or supercharged setup in your Nissan Maxima, you will need an oil feedline hooked up to your car. Below is the one I’m using in my Supercharged 5thgen Nissan Maxima. Works well and have had zero issues.

Order Links:



Community Member Credit: Nismo3112 / vsamoylov

Important Notes:

  • You will need the front valve cover from a 350z and modify the plenum to clear the hood. The FWD fwd valve cover on the driver’s side won’t work cause of the oil plug.
  • The Front Strut Bar does fit
  • You can use everything from your  2K2 including the ECU and Electronic TB
  • 350z Lower Intake is 350z with 350z injectors (Direct Bolt-on)
  • The Rails are the same but the injectors are different.
  • Most people won’t do this mod because of the hood clearance issue. But you can easily use a Hood Scoop.
  • The powerband is much smoother. The TPS piece is made out of a piece of sheet metal and aluminum.
  • Average Cost: Plenums: $180 Shipped / Welding: $100 / Misc supplies: $20

Additional Photos from other Maximas

Adapter kit to run a Holley high-ram style upper lid. This is an option for FWD Maximas as well since this has been done in the past already.

Order Link:
Price: $1,299.00

Kit includes:

  • adapter kit
  • hardware
  • o-ring
  • jumper harness for LS style drive by the wire throttle body
  • Carbon fiber upper plenum with black, red, or silver anodized throttle flange
  • Black anodized comes standard for lower adapter parts
    Parts needed to finish the installation.

Parts needed to finish the installation:

  • LS style throttle body GM part # 12605109 or 87mm version GM part # 2173156.
  • Intake filter and tube and MAF flange, endless combinations I will leave up to you, OEM MAF with tight 4″ to 3″ 90° silicone adapter is the easiest way. Larger custom 3.5″ cold air intake recommended.
  • UPREV(or similar) tune for throttle codes
  • The brake booster hose will need extending to the 3/8″ nipple provided
  • This manifold will not fit under the stock hood. A hole can be cut or an aftermarket hood that provides more clearance can be used.



Photos of Maximas who have done VQ35DE Manifold Installations

Side View

350Z on the right. Both are the same height.

Top View

350Z on the Bottom.

The next two pics are meant to show how much more of a straight thru shot that the flow path is in the 350Z LIM.

The first one is the FWD Maxima LIM

Notice how the 350Z path below is much straighter.

Notice on the 350Z port below there is a small machined step on the inboard lip. It only goes about halfway around the port circumference. It is on the wrong side of the port to prevent flow separation so there must be another reason.

Community Member Credit: nismopc

Well, I did the STS mod today using a bolt and did not like the final version. I originally posted my results in the Free STS post, but decided this was worthy of a new post due to finding the perfect parts to make a perfect STS for less than $2 dollars.

So being bored on this wet Sunday evening, I went to Lowe’s and found the exact part I needed for a DIYer STS.

My original STS was done by drilling a 5/16 hole through the shifter arm and then cutting off the threaded part of a long 5/16 bolt and drilling a small hole for the cotter pin. It was a OK job, but I noticed the bolt allowed for a lil too much play with the shifter cable. Not pleased.

I picked this up from Lowe’s. It is a 5/16×2 Clevis Pin. Just a slight bit bigger in diameter than the bolt and a perfect match to the factory shifter cable connector. Perfect match!

Part Name: Hillman 2-in Clevis Pin
Item: 138646
Model: #881076
Description: Clevis pin – adjustable 5/16 x 2 1pc/bag Adjustable
Order Link:

Here is the Clevis Pin installed from below. I had to tap it in place from under the car due to a very tight fit from surrounding items. Look at how it is the same exact height as the factory pin.

Here is the final install with factory pin in place. I originally was gonna use a cotter pin but decided to use the factory one instead. Easier to remove if needed.

Additional Reference via trooplewis

Thought I would share some additional hints if you haven’t messed with stuff like this before, and post a few pictures.

First step, get rid of all the air intake plumbing!

You need to loosen the hose clamp around the pleated rubber that connects to the throttle body, you need to remove the breather hose where it connects to the block, you need to pinch the clip and pull off the MAF connector, and then you need to remove 4 screws to take out all the air intake plumbing.

That takes 5 or 6 minutes if you have not done it before.

When that plastic crap is off, this is what you will see. The area you are going to be working in is in the lower right of this photo, under that red electrical connection you see. Speaking of which, watch your drill, make sure the chuck is not spinning against it. You don’t want to mess up the wires or the connector there.

The hole you are going to drill is DEEP, I don’t think anyone mentioned that before. It is about an inch of metal you drill through. I used regular 30-wt motor oil to keep the tip of the 5/16 bit cool, putting a few drops into the hole every couple minutes. I just took my time, running the drill at a slow speed with moderate pressure on it. If you drill on high speed, you better have some really nice bits or you are going to destroy them. Take your time.

Drill a pilot hole first with a 3/16 or 1/8 inch bit, but then you can use a sharp 5/16 to go all the way through. You do not have to drill the hole twice with 2 bits, just get your pilot hole set so the 5/16 doesn’t “walk” the surface metal. The drilling took about 20 minutes.

I got the same clevis pin at Lowes, but it didn’t fit neatly into the new hole, as there were burrs on the holes in the pin. I had to put it in a vise and take some crocus cloth to it to smooth it down, then it worked OK.

Here is a photo of the location where I put the hole. NOTE in this image the pin is upside down, just there for the purpose of seeing the location. You have to install the pin from below.

OK, I don’t know if anyone can put the clevis pin in from above the car; not enough area to get your hand into. I jacked up the front of the car (be safe!) and crawled under, still could not get my hand with the pin in my fingers up into that area.

I ended up using one of those long magnetic flexible things you use to get nuts and bolts out of hard to get places that they fall into. I put the clevis pin on the magnet and got it up through the hole then an assistant grabbed and held it while I got out from under the car.

I used needle nosed pliers to hold the lower part of the pin while I slid the linkage back over it, and installed the factory lock clip. You can see the end result in this photo.

Nothing binds, everything works well, and the “smile factor” is definitely there. I don’t think this mod affects the side-to-side movement of the shift knob, but it has a big impact on the up-down travel of the shift handle. Way shorter throw, I did not notice a change in ‘notchiness’, but it is a lot of fun.

You will notice I did not re-install the factory washer, I could not get it to fit under the hole the lock pin slides through. I don’t think that will have any effect on the shifting of the car or the life of the bushing in that location.

Took me about an hour and a half from the time I popped the hood to the time I drove out and tested it.

Owner: Warren Goldberg

Year: 2004
Model: Maxima
Color: Spirited Bronze (KY2)
Engine: VQ35DE
Transmission: 5-Speed Automatic

This post is dedicated to Warren aka The Legendary “Ramberg”. I remember back in 2007 when I first got my 6thgen Maxima, I would see posts by Warren and Chris Hernandez (aka Chernmax). I always admired their dedication to the platform and all the cool things they did. That encouraged me to mod my 6thgen Maxima and it became what is it today. I’ve been very honored of meeting them both in person. Both wonderful and great people (RIP to Chernmax). – Eddy

And with that… now introducing Ramberg’s 2004 6thgen Nissan Maxima.

Mod List:

Engine and Engine Bay

  • URP
  • MDF ported and polished
  • NWP Engineering Thermal Intake Spacers
  • Custom Enterprise Y-Pipe
  • Injen cold-air intake system
  • Greddy SP-2 cat-back system
  • Optima Red Top battery
  • Custom battery bracket
  • Braided hoses
  • Custom engine cover
  • ZEX wet 50-75 shot nitrous system
  • Blue LED purge kit
  • White LED’s for night meets
  • Strobe lights
  • Blue neon light in grille area
  • Stillen FSB


  • custom grill
  • Debadged trunk area
  • Rare Nissan Wing on trunk
  • 2 red LED’s under wing that lights up when brake pedal is pressed
  • Weather tech rain guards
  • Carbon fiber pillar overlays
  • Rear window spoiler
  • Moon roof spoiler


  • Custom pedal covers
  • Custom shifter knob
  • Custom e-brake handle
  • Custom leather e-brake boot
  • Custom made cigar humidor in arm rest
  • Blue LED’s in dome lights
  • Blue neon lights under dash and in trunk
  • Sliver Zex bottle, automatic bottle opener, heated bottle warmer, gauge and blow down tube in trunk


  • Bose OEM system
  • 2 extra tweeters. One on each side of the windshield
  • 2 12″ woofers and Infinity amp
  • TV’s in headrest
  • One TV in driver’s side visor, wife did not want to lose mirror on her side.


  • Zen 18” chrome rims
  • rear and front raceline end-links
  • Stillen RSB
  • Drilled/Slotted rotors
  • Hawk HF brake pads
  • Stainless steel brake lines
  • Eibach lowering springs

This was a very special moment in 6thgen history. This meet was organized by EddyMaxx at the world famous 5 Pointz graffiti location. The location no longer exists so these are all the memories left of 5 Pointz.

Total Count: 34 6thgens

Date: Feb 15, 2008

Location: Took place at 5 Pointz, Queens

Member Credit: Eddy

My SPAL fan recently had an issue due to some wiring that made contact with the headers. It caused the two wires coming out of the fan itself to touch and it ended up ruining the fan motor. So this time around I decided to go with the SPAL 14″ 1864 CFM fan. Primarily because its a little smaller in size and give me a little more clearance with my 5thgen Maxima supercharged setup. The CFM is good enough. I also have a small 10″ fan as well (not SPAL) but just as a backup.

Make sure you use a good relay (at least 40 AMP) before connecting directly to your OEM harness. 

Fan Part Number:30102042

Fan Price: Between $120.00 -$140.00


  • Model: 30102042
  • Airflow CFM: 1864
  • Profile: High Performance
  • Blade: Curved
  • Push/Pull: Pull
  • Height: 15.04″
  • Depth: 3.45″
  • Width: 14.45″


If you don’t use a good relay like the one above, this will happen (Photo Courtesy of Javon Bennet)