Credit: Luis S.
For anyone rebuilding your axles on your own this is the part number for our cars. Nissan stopped producing it but you can still pick it up at Napa. I turned four bad axles into two good ones since some bearings were done while others were still usable after a proper clean and fresh grease.
Amazon Order Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRR33549
Owner: Warren Goldberg
Year: 2004
Model: Maxima
Color: Spirited Bronze (KY2)
Engine: VQ35DE
Transmission: 5-Speed Automatic
This post is dedicated to Warren aka The Legendary “Ramberg”. I remember back in 2007 when I first got my 6thgen Maxima, I would see posts by Warren and Chris Hernandez (aka Chernmax). I always admired their dedication to the platform and all the cool things they did. That encouraged me to mod my 6thgen Maxima and it became what is it today. I’ve been very honored of meeting them both in person. Both wonderful and great people (RIP to Chernmax). – Eddy
And with that… now introducing Ramberg’s 2004 6thgen Nissan Maxima.
Owner: Kyle E.
Year: 2004
Model: Maxima
Color: Black
Engine: VQ35DE
Transmission: 6-Speed Manual
Trim: SE
Quick video on throw-out bearings (release bearings) and clutch forks. A local installer recently put one in backwards, which got me digging deeper into how common this issue is.
If your car feels jumpy or jerky when taking off from a stop, there’s a good chance your throw-out bearing (TOB) might be installed backwards. Many people assume this behavior is normal—especially after installing a Stage 2 clutch—but it’s not.
An incorrectly installed TOB can cause bearing wear, clutch engagement issues, and other drivability problems. Make sure it’s oriented correctly during installation to avoid costly repairs later.
Credit: Voltaire Duran Cacal
Oil Pressure Valve: 15241-43UOA
Part Description: VALVE-OIL PRESSURE REGULATOR
Order Link: https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-valve-oil-press~15241-43u0a.html
Price: $10.00
You may get one of the Nissan vehicles listed below in the shop with engine oil accumulated on the engine block below the engine oil cooler area. Inspect the engine, engine oil cooler and the oil cooler gasket for oil leakage. You may use a fluorescent oil dye leak detector to help more easily determine which component is leaking. If the oil is leaking from the oil cooler rubber gasket, replace the rubber gasket using the following manufacturer’s Service Procedure ….
You may get one of the Nissan vehicles listed below in the shop with engine oil accumulated on the engine block below the engine oil cooler area.
Inspect the engine, engine oil cooler and the oil cooler gasket for oil leakage. You may use a fluorescent oil dye leak detector to help more easily determine which component is leaking. If the oil is leaking from the oil cooler rubber gasket, replace the rubber gasket using the following manufacturer’s Service Procedure.
Vehicles:
Service Procedure:
Posting this up just to clarify the relief valve part number and identification, the FSM is pretty vague.The O Ring part number OEM 21304-JA11A or Dorman part 917-036 (Dorman come 3 in a box and can get it at any parts store)
My problem was I also had a broken relief valve? One man show here, pretty tough holding the camera and trying to hold that bearing in place.
Part Number for relief valve 15241-43UOA, you can see the broken one on the left I stretched the spring trying to unseat it. You can also see half of the ridge that retains the spring and ball bearing which cracked off. Over tightening the oil filter, metal fatigue(200K) ? It comes assembled in the new relief valve.
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Just wanted to thank you for posting this fix for the oil cooler on a G35. The part numbers were a huge help as it is often not available and you waist lots of time trying to get them. Removing the oil pressure relief valve required some thinking in order not to scratch the mating surfaces of the oil cooler itself.
I found a bolt with course threads that would actually start threading itself inside the ball bearing side of the valve. Once I had made about 2 turns of the bolt and knew it was securely inside the valve, I place a crescent wrench behind the head of the bolt and closed the jaws of the crescent wrench. I gave the wrench a few taps and the valve came out very easily and without and damage to the surface of the oil cooler.
I aligned the new valve correctly and used a 6 or 8 mm deep well socket to tap the new valve back in to place until it bottomed out. I cleaned both mating surfaces well and installed the new o-ring with fresh clean oil on it in order to make sufficent contact. I installed the oil filter bolt with 36 lbs of ft, torque and installed a new oil filter.
It could not have been a better out come. I saved lots and lots of $$ and my car has not leaked another drop of oil. I have always been one to over tighten and years of changing the oil and filter caused this oil leak without a doubt. Never again will I go past 2/3 or 3/4 turn after contact again.
Thanks for all of your help.
