Category

my6thgen 04-08

Category

Member Credit: xlack

This is from a G37 but the procedure pretty much identical to Nissan Maximas.

OEM Oil Pan completely stripped of silicon residue:

JWT Oil Pan Spacer:

New silicon applied:

Brush used to remove silicon remains:

This bolt has to be bended in order for the oil pan spacer to fit. (guy from 370z forum had it cut off, but is not necessary):

Bolt is knocked back into position:

my4dsc: 221

Member Credit: NISformance

This article shows how to swap a 2007+ Altima 3.5L VQ35 engine, or 2009+ Maxima 3.5L engine into older Nissan Maxima’s. Including the 2002-2006 Altima (3.5L) and 2002-2008 Maximas. This motor swap is referred to as the 2nd Generation (Gen2) VQ35DE swap.

FB: https://www.facebook.com/NISformance/
Contact: darren@nisformance.com

FWD HR Engine Swap Kit – Version 2 ($220.00)

This kit allows you to swap a 2nd generation VQ35DE motor in a 2002-2008 Maxima or 2002-2006 Altima (3.5 V6) The NISformance 2nd Generation VQ35DE swap kit consist of five main components. The Cam sensor signal inverters, PNP throttle body adapter harness, Belt tensioner bracket, and Alternator bracket. Each component and its intended use is detailed below.

The camshaft sensor signal inverter allows the stock harness to be attached to a newer 2nd generation motor and intercept the camshaft signal wires. This is an essential part of the swap kit and has been designed with ease of install in mind. Each inverter with have a camshaft sensor plug pre-installed. Only wiring necessary are three wires consisting of ground, power, and signal.

The plug and play throttle body harness is necessary in order to utilize the 70 or 75 millimeter throttle body that is equipped on 2nd generation motors.

Sept 2018 Update: We have made several changes to our swap kit in order to improve function and ease of installation. Our V2 swap kit features new cam sensor signal inverters that use a 12V power source. This makes wiring much quicker and easier. Each inverter includes a camshaft sensor plug pre-installed. Both the alternator and belt tensioner brackets have been updated for better fit, brackets are now Zinc coated for higher corrosion resistance.

Ordering Link: http://www.nisformance.com/product-p/hrkitv2.htm

EPS Tuning Oil Gallery Gasket/Hardware Kit VQ35 FWD HR Head engine ($60.00)

Ordering Link: http://www.nisformance.com/EPS-Tuning-Oil-Gallery-Gasket-Hardware-Kit-p/oilgallerykitfwdhr.htm

VIAS Vacuum Hose Kit 2nd Gen VQ35DE ($9.00)

This Kit allows you to properly connect VIAS hassle free. Each kit includes high quality 5/32 Vacuum hose pre cut to the correct lengths for the 2nd Generation VQ35DE intake manifold.Outside port on VIAS solenoid goes to the manifold. Inner port goes to the Y splitter, then each VIAS control solenoid.

Ordering Link: http://www.nisformance.com/product-p/nis-vhk.htm

Other Optional Parts to Replace:

  • Coolant Log Gaskets ($7.99)
  • VQ35 Upper Oil Pan Gasket ($14.99)
  • Belt Tensioner Adjuster Bolt ($15.99)
  • Oil Cooler/Warmer Delete Kit FWD 2nd Gen VQ35DE ($49.99)

There are a few things to keep in mind before beginning your swap:

  • It’s easier to do this swap if you have a 3.5 DE motor laying around, especially if you just pulled it out of the car. You will need to take some things off of the old motor to use on the HR. Without this, there are a few parts that you will have to buy in order to complete the swap.
  • There are some specific tools needed: An ‘E8’ torx socket, 5/16 Allen key, Loctite

VQ35DE Motor Options

There are two generations of the front wheel drive VQ35DE. First generation motor 2002-2008 Maxima , 2002-2006 3.5L Altima. Second generation motor 2009+ Maxima , 2007+ 3.5L Altima. The second generation VQ35DE is equipped with an improved head and manifold design allowing for increased air flow and improved performance. Oil consumption and other flaws commonly found in first generation motors have also been eliminated.

There are two variations of the second generation VQ35DE. A Maxima motor is equipped with “EVT” ( Exhaust Valve Timing ) and has slightly higher compression when compared to an Altima motor, which is not equipped with “EVT”. In most swap applications that use a Maxima motor “EVT” is not used. In order to use “EVT” a different engine management system is necessary. However “EVT” is not necessary and does not negatively affect performance or reliability if left unused.

Step 1: Stripping the motor

Depending on where your motor came from, there may be a lot of ‘extra’ pieces still attached to it. Some of these will just get in your way while you prep your motor, some can’t be used for this swap.

  • Remove all accessories, which includes the alternator, power steering pump.
  • Remove any harnesses and brackets that are still connected to the motor.
  • Remove upper intake manifold (removing lower manifold is not necessary, but sometimes desirable. If removed, a new gasket should be used to reinstall).
  • Remove oil temperature sender:

  • Remove idler pulley/tensioner ‘spacer’ (seen below in red):

** The injector rail may also be removed, but that isn’t necessary.

Step 2: Cover any openings

There will be A LOT of metal shavings and dust around the motor, depending on how you do the cutting and grinding that comes later. These absolutely CANNOT be allowed to get into the motor.

  • Intake ports in the top:

  • Exhaust ports on the sides of motor:

  • Fuel injector ports if fuel rail was removed:

  • The open ends of any coolant hoses/pipes:

Step 3: Modifying the motor 

Some parts of the motor will need to be cut somehow (tools, methods and results will vary) to allow for proper fitment and function once it’s re-installed.

** Because of some concerns about the integrity of the stock oil gallery gasket, we at NISformance strongly recommend replacing it in this step. **

  • When changing the oil gallery gasket, this is a good time to grind away the center portion of the power steering bracket before reassembling the front of the motor.
  • Grind/cut away the center portion of the power steering bracket. This requires some aggressive cutting, but also needs some attention to detail (cutting too DEEPLY can weaken the integrity of the timing cover. Cutting too WIDE can weaken the remaining brackets that will be needed to hold the alternator):

  • Grind/cut away a portion of the metal where the idler pulley/tensioner spacer was:

  • Remove exhaust manifold studs at the rearmost exhaust port (close to the trans). This requires an ‘E8‘ torx socket:

  • Clean out the threads in the opposite holes using a ‘10 x 1.25‘ tap.
  • Replace the removed studs into the newly cleaned holes:

  • Remove lower oil pan
  • Remove upper oil pan
  • Use the oil pan from a 3.5 DE motor…but remove the windage tray. Add your o-rings and seals, and install upper oil pan onto the HR motor.
  • Remove the HR water pump access cover, and replace it with the one from the DE motor

Step 4: Adjusting the cam signal wheel

This is a VERY important step and it must be done very carefully for your car to run properly. You have to be accurate.

Apart from the wiring, adjusting the signal wheel is the most detailed work you need to do on the swap. It is important to be very accurate when cutting or grinding, and it’s also extremely important to assemble everything correctly at the end of this step. Pay close attention to the pictures and make sure that your work looks EXACTLY the same!

*You will need to modify your 5/16 Allen key by cutting the arm down so that it is approximately 3/8″ long. This is your ‘special tool’ that you will need to use in this part of the swap.

  • Open one of the valve covers.
  • Using the ‘special tool’, loosen the signal wheel lock nut and remove the signal wheel from the intake cam:
  • Completely remove the inner nubs from the signal wheel without damaging the rest of the inner surface:

  • At the crank, turn the motor until two notches are visible at the top of the cam:

  • Add Loctite to the flat inner surface of the signal wheel:

  • Reconnect the modified signal wheel to the intake cam…be sure to place it at the proper angle (as shown below) and re-secure the lock nut:

  • Close and bolt down the valve cover
  • Open the other valve cover, and repeat these same steps.

Step 5: Cam Sensor Wiring

Now that all of the heavy wrenching is out of the way, we get to the really important part of your swap.

Version 2 Kit –  Cam Sensor Signal Inverter Wiring

V2 inverters are single channel. One inverter is required for each camshaft position sensor.

Wiring for cam sensor signal inverter:

Red wire – 12 volt power supply (power going into the board)
Black wire – Ground
Orange wire – Signal out (connects to existing wire on ecu side)

Picture below demonstrates the older style DE cam sensor plug that is cut off when wiring in inverter with required wiring:

Version 1 Kit –  Cam Sensor Signal Inverter Wiring

The wiring harness in your car needs to be connected to the newer motor, and it’s not just a ‘plug-and-play’ situation. These diagrams show you the changes that need to be made to make your DE harness control your HR motor:

** THESE WIRE CONNECTIONS ARE CRITICAL. MAKE SURE THAT THEY ARE CONNECTED CORRECTLY (ACCORDING TO THE INSTRUCTIONS), AND SECURELY. TWISTING THEM TOGETHER IS NOT GOOD ENOUGH. **

The stock cam signal wire will be intercepted (cut) by the cam signal inverter supplied with the swap kit. There are six wires on the cam signal inverter…here’s how you connect them:

  • The RED wire goes to a 5v source from your car’s harness (to supply power to the sensor)
  • The BLACK wire is ground

For Cam #1…cut the existing wire:

  • The YELLOW inverter wire connects to the existing wire on the CAM side
  • the ORANGE inverter wire connects to the existing wire on the ECU side

For Cam #2…cut the existing wire:

  • The BLUE inverter wire connects to the existing wire on the CAM side
  • The GREEN inverter wire connects to the existing wire on the ECU side

my4dsc: 2381

Credit: NISformance

This kit is designed to replace the factory oil cooler/warmer. Factory setup warms the engine oil and maintains it at coolant temperature. However, this often leaks or cannot be reused due to damage or contamination.

When using this delete kit vehicles must be driven carefully upon cold startup, no high rpm driving until oil temperature warms up *

Includes:

  • Block plug
  • Oil filter stud
  • Thermostat (without coolant hose fitting)
  • Gasket

Installation:

The block plug replaces the metal line running from block to the factory oil warmer plate

Oil filter stud is used for attaching oil filter to engine block once the oil warmer plate has been removed

Welded coolant block replaces factory coolant block as well as the rubber hose

my4dsc: 280

Member Credit(s): Enygunna Aztec, Tesfa McGregor, Justin Funck

Official photos of the NISformance headers purchased by various Maxima members. They look great! The price of these headers is $1,550.00 and worth every penny! You can get them here: http://www.nisformance.com/NISformance-Headers-p/nisheaders.htm

These headers are currently available for: VQ35DE 1995-2003 Maxima, 2004-2006 Maxima with manual trans or 4spd auto, 2002-2006 Altima 3.5L with manual trans or 4spd auto.

Specifications:

  • Head flange Made from 1/2″ thick steel
  • CNC machined for a smooth transition from exhaust port to primary pipe
  • 1 7/8″ Primary runner size
  • Equal length primaries
  • Formed collector with spike
  • 2.5” collector
  • 2.5” equal length ypipe
  • 3” ypipe out to catback flange
  • Vband flanges on headers and ypipe (2bolt flange on rear of ypipe to bolt to catback)
  • Fully TIG welded

Comparison of 3rdgen Altima / 6thgen Maxima Cattman Headers and NISformance Headers

Price for Reference

 

my4dsc: 734

Article Credit: EddyMaxx

The videos below show you the best way to remove and replace your ABS actuator pump. It is very important that you use the SAME EXACT part number as your old one to avoid any issues. You can find them used on eBay or junkyard. I was getting code C1111 NISSAN – ABS Pump Motor. I used an ABS code reader to get the codes.

I picked up a working used ABS actuator from a friend for $100 bucks. It took me about 2 1/2 hours to get the job done. I removed the windshield wipers and the plastic/metal window cowl. This provided better access. Make sure you use a 10MM Flare Wrench to avoid stripping any of the lines. It not a very difficult job. In my opinion, the most time consuming part was having to re-bleed all the brakes again.

My Symptoms:

  • ABS Light came on
  • Trouble Code: C1111 NISSAN – ABS Pump Motor
  • ABS Actuator stayed on after the car is off for a few minutes
  • ABS was activating under normal regular driving

This is what it looks like when you remove the Window Cowl.

And there is goes. 

Old (Left) / Replacement (Right)

This is the part number for my car 47660 7Y002. It’s a 2004 Nissan Maxima with a 4-Speed Automatic Transmission. It needs to be the same exact for your car otherwise you may have issues.

Notes (From Member alchemist.zim):

  1. Find someone with an ABS scanner, and get ALL ABS CODES. There is no point in replacing just the pump if any of your sensors are bad as well
  2. If you do think you need to replace the ABS pump relay make sure you get the correct part number which can be found on the top of the part.
  3. A brand new one from Nissan is gonna run you $1000+. Junkyard prices start at $100 on eBay. If you decide to get a used part make sure it comes with a warranty.
  4. Have plenty of time to devote to the actual repair work. Its gonna take a minimum of 4 hours to do
  5. Unless you plan on dropping the engine, your gonna have to remove the intake manifold. The ABS pump is located on the passenger side firewall, and there is virtually no room to work in there
  6. Take pictures of where all of the lines, and sensors go. Everything becomes a blur when your all done, but you have 1 line loose, and you don’t know where it goes.
  7. BE EXTRA CAREFUL WITH ALL HARD LINES NEAR THE PUMP. You may think they are sturdy, but they really aren’t meant to be moved to much. If something breaks you in for a bad time

ABS Pump/Relay

Click the image to open in full size.

Part# (The part number is located on the metal part of the pump directly in the center, the 2nd line of numbers)

Click the image to open in full size.

ABS Fuse (In the event the ABS Actuator is draining your battery and you cannot fix it right away, this is the fuse you need to remove)

As I’ve stated, before this my ABS pump would stay on as long as the fuse was in place. I removed the ABS fuse located next to the battery to prevent the pump from draining my battery.

!!!WARNING!!! This fuse also controls you power locks, windows, sunroof, trunk lock and turn signals from what I tell. It is a red combination fuse with 3 different fuses in it, with a clear plastic cover on top. You can try it up with a screw driver on the side. Don’t try to use pliers to lift it up or you’ll break a piece of the fuse cover like I did.

Repair Videos

1 – Window Cowl Removal

2- Harness Plug Removal

3 – ABS Actuator Swap

my4dsc: 407

Member Credit: EddyMaxx

Just wanted to provide some confirmation that the 00-03 5thgen 4-Speed Auto Transmission will fit on the 2004 6thgen Maxima (4-Speed Automatic ONLY). I bought a fully built transmission from a 5thgen Maxima at a great deal. That was the only reason I went the 5thgen route. Otherwise, I would of just bought another 6thgen 4-speed auto tranmission (can be purchased for less than $350 used).  The oil pan sits on the frame a bit but no big issue.

my4dsc: 166

Owner: Kevin Crawford aka kevin007

Year: 2004
Model: Maxima
Current Color:  Red
Transmission: 5-Speed Automatic
Trim: SE

Kevin ran 12.801 @ 106.590 in the 1/4 track on April 19th, 2008. The car was on a 75-shot of Nitrous. The event took place at Capitol Raceway, Maryland. Sadly, we lost Kevin in September of 2009 due to his long battle with cancer. We will always miss you Kevin! This post is dedicated to you. You will never forgotten in the Nissan Maxima community! 

 

Mod List:

  • KintexRacing Upper Intake Manifold
  • Zex Wet Kit with a 75shot of Nitrous
  • Greddy SP2 Catback Exhaust
  • Technosquare ECU Upgrade with timing retarded for Nitrous (7100 Limiter)
    Eibach Springs Pro Kit Front Lowered 2.0″ and Rear Lowered .08″
  • Fujita F5 Cold Air Intake
  • Stock Manifold w/VIAS Block off Plate
  • Cattman Y-Pipe
  • NGK 1-Step Colder Plugs
  • SP Crossed Drilled and Slotted Rotters
  • Hawk One Brake Pads Front & Rear
  • Racingline Upper Front Strut Bar
  • Optima Performance Battery
  • Custom Two Tone Leather Interior
  • Diamo 18″ Light Weight Racing Rims on Rear w/stock 245/45/18 tires
  • Enkei 17″ Light Weight Racing Rims up front w/Nitto 555R Drag Radials 245/45/17 up front
  • Kicker 600 Watt Mono Amp and Sub box
  • Alpine IVA300 FlipScreen w/Nav DVD X-Box
  • 2200 Watt Amp Pushing Eight interior Speaker
  • Painted Engine Covers

Kevin007 Tributes

Kevin007 YouTube Videos

 

my4dsc: 406