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my6thgen 04-08

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Member Credit: EddyMaxx

I had recently encountered a Brake/Battery Light. Alternator checked out good and car was driving well.

After a little research, I discovered that the 10A Alternator Fuse located in the engine bay (picture below) was blown. Once I replaced it, both the Battery and Brake Light went off. The reason why the fuse blew is because the alternator plug was a little frayed and both wires made contact with each other. I re-did the wiring and sealed it up nicely.

Just wanted to share this information in case you think it’s your Alternator and/or ECU. Simple fix!

my4dsc: 21

Member Credit: EddyMaxx

My front bumper had a noticeable sag. When I took the bumper off, I found that it did not have the clips that hold it up. Easy enough to fix! I ordered two clips and it resolved my “bumper sag” issue.

Part Number: 62228-7Y000 (Clip, Front Bumper)
Price: $4.56 (You need two of these)
Fitment: Fits all 2004-2008 Nissan Maxima’s

BEFORE:

AFTER:

 

 

my4dsc: 18

Member Credit: EddyMaxx

Do you have the symptoms below:

This morning while I was driving to school, my instrument cluster just stopped working… I.E. Speedometer, odometer, fuel gauge, rpm’s, even the blinkers (though these worked, just wouldn’t get the clicking noise or the visual indicator on the instrument cluster). The odometer would show my mileage, but didn’t change at all. The cluster lights weren’t as bright during the day as they usually are. Also, the A/C – Heater system wouldn’t turn on, cruise wouldn’t work (kinda made sense though since the speedometer wasn’t working). – mattpattberg

If so, then the first thing you need to check is if you have any coins on top of your radio dash. If you remember having coins or actually see coins there, one of them may have dropped into AC Amp case and caused it to burn out. Usually pennies and dimes. You will now have to replace the AC Control Amplifier. Most members buy it used from eBay or local junk yards.

This may also trigger a U1000 CAN Communication Line – Signal Malfunction code.

Part Number: 27760-7Y000 (AC Control Amplifier)

You can follow the replacement how-to here: https://www.my4dsc.com/replace-ac-control-amplifier-6thgen-maxima/

Used Replacement (27760-7Y000 AC Control Amplifier).

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Member Credit: Nperez1986 /  Jonthon Rubia

If you are looking to upgrade to the Akebono 4-Piston BBK from a Nissan 370z / Infiniti G37 Sport, you now have the option to use 300ZX (Z32) caliper adapter brackets on eBay. The bracket themselves are $70 bucks shipped. In order for this to work, you will need to use the Mitsubishi Evo X GSR 13.78″ (350 MM) rotors versus the Z34/V36 rotors (354 MM) rotors. The rotors themselves can be found for super cheap as well.

Brackets / Rotors work on the following:

  • 2002-2006 Altima (Front/Rear)
  • 2005-2006  Altima SE-R (Front/Rear)
  • 2004-2008 6thgen Maxima (Front/Rear)
  •  2000-2003 5thgen Maxima (Front ONLY)
  • 1995-1999 4thgen Maxima  (Front ONLY)

Notes: For the 4thgen Nissan Maxima, you will need to enlarge the (4) holes in the knuckles to accommodate for bigger caliper bracket bolts. Aside from that it will work fine. Just keep in mind that this is ONLY for the front calipers. Rears will not fit on the 4thgens / 5thgens. 

Link to Brackets: https://ebay.us/sCjKnm

eBay Actual Description: Front Akebono Big Brake Caliper Rotor Upgrade Adapter Bracket For 300ZX Z32

Once the calipers are on the car you only need to trim the dust shield in the lower mounting area. Photo’s below:

Nperez1986 below is demonstrating that the calipers and bracket will bolt on the front knuckles with no modifications. 

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Patrick Marcello from my6 FB group  is currently doing a limited run of his 6thgen Custom Fenders. They will be available for sale to members at a great deal. Only 5 initial SETS! You will need to provide the fenders. You can inquire on the my6thgen.org Facebook group for additional details.

UPDATE: ALL INITIAL 5 SETS SOLD!!

Will provide an update once more slots become available.

 

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This post is dedicated to our good friend and fellow car cnthusiast Chris Hernandez aka Chernmax. He was a true pioneer in the Nissan Maxima community and never hesitated to help a fellow member out. Chris was the first to turbo a 6thgen Nissan Maxima and inspired many others to push the 6thgen Maxima to the limit. You will be greatly missed Chris. This post is dedicated to you.

With Love – my4dsc.com and the Nissan Maxima Community!

Christopher Anthony Hernandez

Sunrise April 23, 1963 – Sunset July 23, 2018

Mod List:

Engine
– Speed Force Racing Turbo Kit (Stage 2)
– Turbonetics T60-1 Turbo
– Tial 38mm Wastegate
– Tial 38mm Blowoff valve
– Spearco Intercooler
– B & M SuperCooler Tranny Cooler #70622
– GReddy Profec B spec-II Electronic Boost Controller
– AEM UEGO wide band monitor
– Slit Second A/F Turbo control computer
– Kinetix Intake manifold
– 440CC fuel injectors with Autolight XP Extreme Performance iridium sparkplugs
– Walbro 255High Flow Fuel Pump
– Custom polished Turbo intake pipe
– NWP (Upper/Lower) IM Phenolic Spacers
– OBX-R Silicon Radiator hoses (U/L) New!!!
– COMETIC Head Gaskets
– Arias Low Compression Racing Pistons (1000hp / 8.6 to 1)
– Brian Crower Pro Series Connecting Rods
– ARP Head Bolts
– Unorthodox Racing Lightweight Racing Pulley
– Cosworth High Performance Rod Bearings
– GReddy oil cap
– GReddy radiator cap
– Custom hand painted and airbrushed engine cover (80 hours by graphic artist Joe Kerner) This does NOT come with car, sorry…
– Custom side painted engine covers
– Custom Injen Intake Filter Heat Shield

Exhaust System
– Hotshot Headers with High flow cat (modified for Turbo)
– GReddy SP-II catback system with custom REMUS Duel Turbo exhaust mufflers

Suspension
– D2 Racing RS Coilovers D2-N06
– Racingline Front and Rear Endlinks (with Energy Suspension bushings)
– Racingline Motor Mount inserts (Front/Rear)
– 2005 Nissan Altima SE-R front lower Anti Sway Bar (24mm verse 22mm)
– Stillen FUSB (custom polished)
– Stillen Rear anti-sway bar
– Custom Rear Upper Support Brace

Braking
– Wilwood 4 piston BBK with 13.25″ rotors front
– Wilwood 4 piston BBK with 12.9″ rotors rear
– Wilwood SS Performance Kevlar/steel braided brake line
– Hawk HPS brake pads

Tires/Rims
– Rims: O.Z. Crono HT Black Painted (19.5 lbs) (18X8 – 5x114mm offset) (newly sodium blasted and repainted!!!)
– Eibach 5mm spacer kit with Tuner lug nuts
– Tires: Nitto 555 Extreme Performance (Ultra High Performance) (240/45ZR/18) (New, less than 500 miles!!!)
– Full racing spare on 5th OZ HT Comp Lightweight Racing Rims and Nitto 555 tire!

Electrical
– Activetuning ground wiring kit (Blue)
– PIAA 9000 Hyper white Halo fogs.
– Custom LED Tail lights
– Customlightz front headlight mod (Painted semi flat black with upper/lower blue halo’s)
– Custom LED blue lights on lower bumper highlighting intercooler
– Optima Yellow Top power cell (trunk mounted)
– Optima custom polish aluminum battery bracket
– Stinger battery terminals with positive terminal LED readout
– Switchback LED Turning lights

Body
– Activetuning S4.1 Grill (Onyx black with powder coated diamond mesh grill and custom NISMO emblem)
– RedLineMax Front Bumper
– Stillen Side Ground effects (custom aluminum NISMO emblems)
– 07 Rear Bumper conversion
– Debadged trunk with custom Nissan Emblem
– G35 Rear Spoiler (with 4th brake light)
– Custom L.E.D. tail lights
– 35/20/35% window tint (MD state legal)
– JDM Style roof spoiler
– Custom painted hood and roof Nissan Onyx Black

Interior
– Momo red crystal shifter
– Momo racing peddles
– Tenko-R billet aluminum e-brake handle
– RedLineGoods custom calf leather ebrakeboot
– Real Burl wood dash kit
– Custom carbon fiber side mirror covers
– B-Quiet Ultimate trunk and rear seat sound proofing
– Hard wired radar detector

my4dsc: 311

Member Credit: Fuzzyknub / EddyMaxx

If you eliminate your EGR valve, you’ll likely get a P0400 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Malfunction trouble code. But no worries, here’s what you need to do to get rid of the code.

EGR (What you will be eliminating/deleting)

1. EGR Block-off Plate

Buy the EGR blockoff plate from NWP (you can also make your own). This will go on the intake manifold when you disconnect the piping from the EGR system. If you are doing an HR swap or have a 07-08 Maxima, then you don’t need to do this. They cost $35 bucks from NWP.

2. EGR Exhaust Plug

For the exhaust side plumbing you’ll either need a plug for the exhaust bung or have headers that don’t have an EGR bung. The EGR exhaust bung plug is a M24 plug. You can actually buy it directly from Nissan using this: Plug Taper – Nissan (14052-21R00)

3. EGR Temp Sensor

This is the smallest of the 2 sensors on the EGR piping under the hood. You can either leave it in the engine bay reading ambient air temp or you can trick the ECM by sticking a 10k ohm resistor in the female connector (as my picture illustrates above). I don’t believe you will go into limp mode if you totally remove this sensor and don’t do the resistor trick but you will throw a P0406 (EGR flow sensor A circuit high input) code.

RadioShack Part #: 2711335 10K-Ohm 1/4-Watt Carbon Film Resistor (5-Pack)

Important Note: Make sure resistor is 10K-Ohm not 10-Ohm. 

4. EGR Valve Sensor

I removed this sensor (4 screws secure it to the piping) from the piping, left it plugged in to the factory harness and zip tied it to some other wiring under the hood. This one is a big deal as you WILL go into limp mode and can’t rev over approx 3k rpms if you take this sensor out from under the hood! Ask me how I know

 

5. Coolant Lines

If I remember correctly my coolant lines went to the EGR valve, out to the throttle body and back out to the return plumbing. I basically just took the EGR out of the lineup. So the coolant line runs straight to the Throttle body and back out to the return plumbing. I’ll delete the coolant lines to the throttle body at a later date and time as I was doing a LOT of mods at once and didn’t feel like fooling with it at that time & point.

That should do it!

Update from EddyMaxx (June 24th, 2018)

I performed this on my 2004 Nissan Maxima and drove 3K+ miles. No issues or CEL from the EGR delete. The emissions readiness monitors also pick up EGR as PASS!

Photo of my car (Taken Sept 2nd, 2018):

my4dsc: 521

So you get your code scanner and it says something like, “Bank 1 Sensor 2“. So where exactly are these banks located?

Bank 1 means that the sensor is closest to the Firewall.

Bank 2 means that the sensor is closest to the Radiator.

Yup, it’s that simple.

my4dsc: 224

Member Credit: Twin001

Both the Nissan 370Z and the Infiniti G37 calipers are the same size, simply done in different colors respectively.  They both will interchange 100% with each other, and all hardware remains the same for both calipers.  

Size:

  • Front caliper: 4-pot
  • Rear caliper: 2-pot
  • Front rotor: 355mm / 14″
  • Rear rotor: 332mm / 13.8″

Weight:

  • Hardware, front: 2 lbs (reuse existing rear hardware)
  • Front Calipers: 10-11 lbs each
  • Rear Calipers: 5-6 lbs each
  • Front Rotors (14″ Stoptech Slotted): 27 lbs each
  • Rear Rotors (13.8″ Stoptech Slotted): 18 lbs each

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Member Credit: rguerra7

The main parts needed are:

1. Navigation Display Screen (28090 CA100)
2. Display Control Unit (28330 ZC00A)
3. Navigation Unit (25915 CB804)
4. GPS antenna (I bought an aftermarket one that works)
5. Plugs that fit the back of these units (Just searched for Nissan plugs on eBay and bought what seemed to fit).

The Display Control Unit and Navigation Unit came off a 2005 Infiniti QX56. I didn’t buy any special wiring harness, but be prepared to wire 50-70 wires. Most of these wires are interconnected with the control units mentioned above, and only about 20 wires need to be connected to the car.

The schematic for the integrated display system is on page 70 and for the navigation system on page 111.Choose your year, then it’s under the “av.pdf”.

This should work for the 2004-2005 Maxima.

When I started connecting the wires to the car.

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