Our 350z Fuel Rails are machined from billet T6061 Aluminum stock. The rail has a larger bore diameter than stock, allowing fuel flow to increase 350% more over stock (as seen above). The rail comes clear anodized to help protect against the elements. The rail is tapped to accept dash 6 fittings. Our rails are unique in the fact that you can either use your stock injectors or use taller aftermarket bosch style injectors to upgrade your fuel system. The rail comes with four dash 6 O-ring to dash 6 AN fittings, aluminum spacers to allow use with either style injectors, and stainless button head hardware.
Important Note: These fuel rails fit the 2002-2008 VQ35DE Nissan Maxima. Additionally, 350z injectors fit on Maxima rail with no issue. A 350z rail is not needed if just changing the injectors.
2JR introduces our lightweight race pulley for the VQ35 Maxima and Infiniti I35, 01-04 years. Based on a far better design than the OBX pulley with a 75% weight savings over OEM, this is a must have mod for your VQ. Gain upwards to 9WHP / 12WTQ. Offered ONLY in anodized BLACK, with 2JR Logo.
2002-2006 Maxima Belt Size
Gates belt part number is K060408 for Alternator/AC
Gates belt part number is K040300 for Power Steering
2007-2008 Maxima Belt Size
Gates belt part number is K060388 for Alternator/AC
Gates belt part number is K040300 for Power Steering
Brand new to the market is our HD Detent Kit for the Nissan RS6F51 transmission! Add confidence and enjoyment to your driving experience with these affordable and easy to install springs. Over 70% stiffer than OEM, the V1R HD Detent Kit provides the driver with the positive feedback desired with every gear change.
We have custom tailored each spring to not only increase the performance of your transmission, but also to combat the sloppy reverse feel that is far too common. This kit is suitable for any vehicle – from the daily driver to weekend warrior. Be sure to couple these with Vision One Racing Shift Selector Springs for the ultimate transmission experience!
Thanks to Kirill, we just ordered a set of “Street” Selector Springs for our 2002 6-Speed Supercharged 5thgen Maxima. Will post a review afterward. The owner Peter will get back to you quickly. This is only for the manual FWD RS6 6-Speed and RS5 5-Speed Transmissions. Also, if you are having issues with reverse just make sure the spring cup on the larger spring is not upside down.
Overview & Purpose from Vision1Racing
From the factory, Nissan utilizes two springs within the transmission to “center” the shifter in the 3/4 gate. These OEM springs are very weak and often cause 3rd gear lockout issues when attempting to quickly shift. This is simply due to the driver overpowering the spring’s ability to line up the shift mechanism in the 3rd gear fork. VisionOneRacing offers two kits to fit the driver’s needs.
Our Street Kit is 200% stiffer than the factory and provides a nice, crisp feel. This is truly how it should have come from the factory. Our Race Kit utilizes a higher grade spring steel and is over 300% stiffer than the factory. This will provide the necessary “kick” to the shifter when slamming them gears down the track.
Both kits have received excellent feedback and have propelled the V1R Sentra into the 9’s, being the first QR to do so. They have also helped send the all-motor Maxima into the 10’s with many other success stories along the way!
It’s also worth noting that I highly recommend aftermarket shifter bushings when using our Race Kit. These can be had from 2J Racing among others.
I just installed these aluminum valve covers on my 5thgen Maxima. AND YES, THEY ARE ALUMINUM! The brand is MITZONE. They are well-made and come with gaskets. I have no leaks or problems so far. They are also very sturdy/solid vs. the crap plastic stuff. Highly recommend.
eBay Description: ALUMINUM Valve Cover Kit for 02-09 NISSAN Altima Maxima Murano Quest I35 3.5L Price: $87.99-$95.00 (Shipped) Order Links Below:
Price: $189.99 (Shipped Anywhere in the Continental US)
2009 – 2016 Nissan Maxima
2007 – 2016 Nissan Altima
2007 – 2013 Nissan Altima Coupe
Tune On The Go is proud to present phenolic its 2pc thermal intake spacers. These spacers are made from 3/8 thick high-grade phenolic. The spacers will isolate the throttle body from the manifold and also the manifold from the block.
With the isolated areas spaced off this way the manifold will run about 23 degrees cooler thus creating colder, denser, heavier air into the chamber
Sold as a complete kit which includes:
2 – Extended High Strength Manifold Studs
4 – Stainless Steel Manifold Bolts
8 – Stainless Steel Lock Washers
4 – Stainless Steel Allen Head Throttle Body Bolts
This fixed the infamous gear slamming issue after upgrading to the upgrade Level 10 valve body.
The Nissan Maxima-Quest has become well known as a fine automobile. Unfortunately, the transmission continues to be a problem.
Even when overhauled, the same factory parts are installed resulting in the same problems. LEVEL 10 has developed a series of valve body components and modifications that will correct the hard shifts, gear slams, erratic shift points, and transmission failures. The best part of our modifications is there is no need for a complete transmission overhaul saving thousands of dollars.
These brackets will guarantee the proper fitment of Akebono calipers on your Maxima or Altima. Say goodbye to pad overhang and knocking off wheel weights when running your 18s!
The kits will be made out of 6061 high-strength aluminum. I am currently in talks with the machinist to see if I can do a separate run of steel brackets though. I was quoted $45 USD more (subject to change).
The aluminum kits will cost $225 plus shipping and PayPal fees. ($50.00 Deposit Required)
Important Note: These brackets for only for the front calipers. The rear Akebono calipers are plug-n-play but only for the 04+ Maximas/ 05+ SE-R Altimas.
Improvements (Over Previous Brackets):
Mounting holes to the knuckles have been shifted to the correct spots to fix the pad overhang problem.
A notch has been made to clear the curvature of the caliper as it was not allowing it to seat on the bracket properly.
The caliper mounting holes were oversized. This is also corrected.
I started out by removing the driver’s side rear window molding. There is one 10mm bolt you have to remove and only visible when you open the trunk.
Once that is removed start prying upwards on the molding starting from the bottom and working your way up. There are about four clips holding it on. Be careful not to put too much pressure on the window or the body of the car. Don’t want to break glass or dent anything.
Once off should look like so….
Then take you led strip and apply two sided tape to it. I used 3m. You want to clean the led strip really well then I heated up the led and the tape before applying it. Did the same on the window. Cleaned it really well and heated it up.
Before applying the led to the window I set the roof spoiler in position and placed a small piece of the led underneath to see where i could place it without getting in the way of mounting the spoiler. Turned out to be maybe 1/2″ from the top of the window.
Also before applying, make sure your wires are running down the driver’s side. That is where the rubber boot is where the wires will run in.
You are then able to run the wires down towards the rubber boot going into the vehicle. I just tucked them under the window. The molding will cover it up anyway.
From here you can tap into the existing wires to the factory 3rd brake light (6.5 gens). If you don’t have the factory spoiler with 3rd brake light wires should be the same colors found in harness running towards the front of the vehicle.
If you pull up on the boot you can find your wires there. 12v – Red/Green Ground – Black
From here you should be able to mount your roof spoiler and reassemble everything.
Here you can see they are pretty hidden unless you really look for them.
I also ended up putting a black vinyl overlay on the factory 3rd brake light to make it look like part of the spoiler. You could paint it to match the vehicle’s color if you don’t ever plan on using again.
Additional Reference Photos from DEADBOLT
I 3M taped the strip to the edge of the roof spoiler for it to be more visible.
I cut down the strip to fit exactly the lines of the spoiler and wired an exted + and – wires to it so I can connect it to the interior plug of where the old 3rd brake light use to be.
Not sure if this has been visited before but my Son recently brought it to my attention when we were discussing running a 200 shot of spray. He suggested that I use his nitrous test kit to ensure the fuel pressure remained constant when running a 200 fuel jet. So after a few minutes I soon found out that my 190 Walbro dropped to 30 psi, not good. He then mentioned that a lot pf VW and DSM guys rewired their fuel pump with a higher gauge wire to maintain a higher voltage. I measured the voltage at the pump with the engine running and found it to be just over 12v. I then ran a heavy gauge wire from the battery and conected it to the pump wire at the pump, the voltage went up to almost 14 and the fuel pressure went up by almost 10 psi.
So it was off to the store to buy some heavier wire. I decided on 10 gauge rather than something heavier because of the difficulty soldering heavier wire as well as routing. The stock wire at the pump is 14 gauge but if you strip the wire back a couple of feet you will find it increases to 12 gauge.
The easiest way is to run the heavier gauge wire directly from the battery with a fuse and use a relay to connect to the pump. Use the original pump supply wire to fire the relay and use the larger wire on the N.O contacts to run the pump.
Auto Performance has a couple of charts comparing 12v vs 13.8v and their corresponding flow rates and current draw.. Pretty impressive comparison. eg For my pump at 50 psi the flow rate increases from 36 to 46 gal/hr while the current draw remains the same.
I would suggest an adjustable FPR to compensate for the increased pressure.
A 255 pump was installed because even with the increased voltage the 190 pump would not handle a 200 shot. After installing the new pump my pressure increased to over 80 psi and took a lot of adjustment to bring it back into the 50 psi range.