Owner: Kenlly Espinal
Current Color: Custom Grey
Transmission: 5-Speed Automatic
Owner: Kenlly Espinal
Current Color: Custom Grey
Transmission: 5-Speed Automatic
Owner: Kevin Crawford aka kevin007
Current Color: Red
Transmission: 5-Speed Automatic
Kevin ran 12.801 @ 106.590 in the 1/4 track on April 19th, 2008. The car was on a 75-shot of Nitrous. The event took place at Capitol Raceway, Maryland. Sadly, we lost Kevin in September of 2009 due to his long battle with cancer. We will always miss you Kevin! This post is dedicated to you. You will never forgotten in the Nissan Maxima community!
Member Credit: EddyMaxx
I was shopping around for quality fans for my Nissan Maxima’s (6thgen and 4thgen). The dual Mishimoto fans were not cutting it anymore. And honestly, the Mishimoto fans were really no different than the 14″ generic ones on eBay. I did some research and found a company called SPAL. A fellow member (Javon B.) vouched for these fans confirmed they work very well. All 12-volt puller models, these Extreme Performance Electric Fans offer the most flow and fan area.
My car would overheat at times when going on long cruises with the AC on. I no longer have any cooling issues at all. This fan is very powerful with 2,024 CFM and does the job with just single 16″ Fan. I’m not even using a shroud.
Make sure you use a good relay (at least 40 AMP) before connecting directly to your OEM harness. More info below:
Fan Part Number: 30102049
Fan Price: Between $100.00 -$130.00
Relay Price: It’s about $33 bucks. The part number for it is SPAL-FRH. It’s a 40-amp relay kit. Highly recommended. You can use your own relay brand as well.
Old 14″ Mishimoto Fans. These were 1300 CFM but certainly didn’t feel like it.
Comparison of my 16″ SPAL Fan to Mishimoto 14″ Fan
Mounted on `Mishimoto Radiator. It’s literally a perfect fit.
Photo of the SPAL-FRH Relay (40AMP):
If you don’t use a good relay like the one above, this will happen (Photo Courtesy of Javon Bennet)
CVTz50 is an Android App that allows you to perform various diagnostics on your CVT transmission. No need to go buy special scanners, gauges and/or pay your Nissan dealer a “special diagnostic fee“. This app will tell you everything you need to know about your CVT including some additional nice features such as resetting your CVT fluid deterioration counter and adjusting your engine brake levels. Many 7thgen Maxima owners like to use this app to monitor the CVT temperature levels after installing an additional transmission oil cooler.
Special thanks to Eric Cruz for finding and validating this app for Nissan Maximas.
App Price: $4.99
Download Link: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.cvtz50.cvtz50
You will need an ELM327 interface to use the app. You can buy them on eBay for around $15 bucks. It must be an ELM327 1.5 built on original Microchip PIC18F25K80. To ensure your ELM327 interface will work, you can try the demo app here: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.cvtz50.cvtz50demo
Information Credit: http://cvtz50.info
To read Diagnostic Trouble Codes stored in CVT or in engine, press button Read/Clear CVT DTC or Read/Clear Engine DTC. After successful DTC reading, CVTz50 will show number of errors stored in corresponding control module and list of the codes.
In order to erase CVT/engine DTC, press and hold corresponding button, then confirm erasing by selecting YES in confirmation dialog.
Press Read/Clear CVTF Deterioration button to read deterioration data.
Nissan recommends to change CVT fluid if deterioration exceeded 210000 points. Note that on majority of the vehicles the deterioration counter takes into account CVT operation only in high temperature conditions (the counter increases only when CVT temperature is above 90°C). There might be other reasons to replace CVT fluid – they shall be considered even if deterioration counter is significantly below the threshold.
After replacing CVT fluid, CVTF Deterioration data should be cleared. To perform deterioration data erasing, hold Read/Clear CVTF Deterioration button and confirm the operation by selecting YES in confirmation dialog.
Press Engine Brake Adjustment button to change the level of engine braking. Current brake level will be retrieved from CVT control module and marked in the selection dialog. Select new brake level and confirm the change by pressing OK or press Cancel to exit without saving. Nissan is not recommending to select levels +1, -1 and -2.
Nissan is not recommending to select levels +1, -1 and -2.
Engine braking can be adjusted only on Nissan-based vehicles. Mitsubishi, Peugeot, Citroen, Jeep do not provide such ability in their CVT control firmware.
Press CVT Data Monitor button to start realtime monitoring of CVT parameters. Data monitoring will be also started automatically if no buttons pressed within 10 seconds after CVTz50 launched. In this mode, CVTz50 shows majority of significant realtime CVT parameters that can be seen in official diagnostic tool Consult-II:
Data updates every 5-8 seconds when CVTz50 reads data from CVT control module, engine control module and AWD control module. Update frequency can be increased to 5-8 updates per second by turning off reading of engine and AWD in CVTz50 menu.
Data chart showing last 200 values of specific CVT parameter can be opened by pressing parameter name or value in CVT Data Monitoring mode. Red line is the selected parameter and blue line is Vehicle Speed.
CVTz50 automatically tracks primary pulley pressure while vehicle stopped in D position after CVT fluid temperature reached 50°C and Step Motor got position 4. Under these conditions, primary pulley pressure should not drop below 0.5MPa. Once these conditions met, CVTz50 will display additional information block near Primary Pulley Pressure – Step4 %/min/avg showing percentage of Step Motor setting to 4 during continuous braking from 40km/h to 0km/h (more is better), minimum and average pressure during stop (closer to 0.7MPa is better). The block will be highlighted by yellow if minimum value drops below 0.5MPa; highlighted by red if drop below 0.3MPa.
This automatic test is applicable only to CVTs equipped with Step Motor (prior to CVT7).
During intensive acceleration from 0km/h (engine speed more than 3000 rpm), primary and secondary pulley pressure shall reach at least 5MPa. This test shall be performed in CVT-only monitoring mode (monitoring of engine and AWD turned off in CVTz50 menu) to ensure enough measurement sampling rate. Maximum primary and secondary pressures will be shown in fields sec max and pri max.
Note: maximum values can be reset only by exiting CVTz50 so cvtz50 should be restarted before each attempt.
In CVT-only monitoring mode (monitoring of engine and AWD turned off in CVTz50 menu) if accelerator pedal fully depressed, CVTz50 automatically measures acceleration time 0-50km/h, 0-100km/h, 0-150km/h, 0-200km/h. Measurement result will be shown near indication of gear lever position. Measurement accuracy is around 0.25s if data updated 4 times per second.
During monitoring, CVTz50 collects statistics on CVT temperature conditions, pressures, milage, fluid deterioration, engine runtime and other data. Statistics button opens new window showing graphical representation of collected statistical data which can be checked for any trends (like month-by-month pressure decrease illustrating fast CVT wear). Backup copy of statistical data is stored in Google account (if Android device is linked with Google account and applications data backup was not turned off during Android device setup) and will be restored in case of CVTz50 re-installation or during migration to new Android device using same Google account (if during migration to new device user allow “restore applications and their data from previous device”).
CVT Information button opens new window showing following information retrieved from TCM (transmission control module):
Idle Rpm Adjustment can be started by short pressing of button Idle Rpm Adj / Idle Air Learn (Nissan).
Ignition Timing adjustment can be started by long pressing of button Power Balance / Ign Timing (Nissan).
After starting an adjustment, CVTz50 reads current adjustment levels from engine control module and mark it in adjustment selection window. Press OK to save newly selected adjustment value to engine control module or press Cancel to quit without saving.
Adjustments can be performed only on warmed up engine. Idle Air Volume Learning might be required before performing these adjustments.
Long pressing of Idle Rpm Adj / Idle Air Learn (Nissan) button initiates the learning procedure. Learning should be performed on warmed up engine, all electronic load need to be switched off. Idle Rpm Adjustment and Ignition Timing adjustment need to be set to 0 before starting this procedure.
Power Balance dialog allows to temporary disable fuel injection in specific cylinder. Dialog title shows current engine RPM and minimum RPM observed after last switching of cylinders. This test allows to compare performance among cylinders.
CVTz50 allows to send any custom commands or command series to ELM327 or to any vehicle control unit.
CVTz50 optionally can connect to CVT control module or to engine control module before executing entered custom command.
Log containing main data exchange between CVTz50 and ELM327 adapter is stored in file cvtz50.txt which can be found on memory card of Android device.
CVT realtime parameters recorded during monitoring are stored in file cvtz50_params.txt which can be opened by Microsoft Excel for detailed offline analysis.
In engine-only monitoring mode, engine realtime parameters are stored in logfile cvtz50_engine.txt.
Fastest and most reliable way of getting proper ELM327v1.5 is buying it at local store. Check it immediately with CVTz50 or CVTz50 DEMO and get moneyback if it unable to connect to transmission. Just one disadvantage – price of the interface will be higher comparing to online stores.
It is also possible to buy a good ELM327 interface via Ebay or Aliexpress, search using keywords ELM327 PIC18F25K80 (PIC18F25K80 is name of the chip inside majority of “good” adapters). The problem is that some sellers are still shipping “fake” interfaces regardless of mentioning the name of good chip in item’s description, especially sellers offering lowest price. So before placing an order, it is necessary to check with the seller whether their product really has proper version 1.5 and build on appropriate hardware. Sample query to a seller: Is your ELM327 1.5 built on original Microchip PIC18F25K80? What’s the frequency of crystal oscillator there, 4mhz or 16mhz? Does it support commands ATAL and ATPPS?
Good ELM327 interface: microchip PIC18F25K80 and crystal oscillator 4MHz.
Might be built on one PCB (like on the picture), or on two or three PCBs soldered together
Bad ELM327 interface: fake microchip PIC18F25K80 with label 14309MP and crystal oscillator 16MHz
Bad ELM327 interface: microchip STM32
Sometimes such interfaces can work with limitations in mode “ELM327 v2.15 compatibility”
Bad ELM327 interface: unknown chip hidden under drop of varnish
Owner: Bryan Otero
Color: Dark Slate Metallic
Owner: Erick Villanueva
Color: Black Obsidian (KH3)
Transmission: 6-Speed Manual
Member Credit: Kelby Mikhal Pickrell
The 2016+ 8thgen Intake Manifold directly fits the 2009-2015 7thgen Maxima. It will also fit other gens (4thgen, 5thgen, 6thgen) that have done the Gen2 VQ35DE (aka HR) engine swap. These can also be used to swap your 2007+ Altima Manifold to a Maxima one (direct fit as well).
You can find and buy these manifolds on eBay for around $150 or less.
Please Note: As of now, there hasn’t been any testing to prove additional gains in comparison to the 2009-2015 7thgen Maxima manifold. We will provide an update as we learn more.
Owner: Elijah Jefferson
Make/Model: Nissan Maxima
Color: Black –> Wrapped Gloss Aluminium Red – True Blood
Transmission: Automatic (CVT)
Member Credit: Equinox
This is for a 370z but is applicable to 6thgen Maximas as well.
DISCLAIMER: REMOVE YOUR STOCK SEAT SRS AIRBAG SYSTEM AT YOUR OWN RISK, I AM NOT CONDONING REMOVAL, NOR DO I TAKE RESPONSIBILITY IF YOU DO SO.
Okay, some of you may have put racing seats in your car, and noticed that now you have a flashing airbag light (a stick figure seat belted in, with an airbag in his face) blinking on your dash, or some of you may want racing seats, but do not want to do it because of the flashing light. Well, below is how you get rid of the light without ripping it out the dash.
First, the reason why you get the light. Your stock 370z seats have SRS airbags inside the shoulder of the seat. When you wreck, these deploy and basically are like a pillow between you and the door for side impact collisions. If you choose to remove your stock seats, you will have to disconnect a plastic electrical connector under EACH seat. This is the SRS connector. NOTICE: Under the Passenger seat are two connectors, one is the passenger airbag weight sensor pad, the other, the SRS system. I will tackle the weight sensor further down this how to.
Note, airbag module shown just for reference, as I took it completely out the seat just to see what I was dealing with. You do not need to remove the whole airbag assembly.
Second, Supplies you will need for the SRS airbag light removal ‘trick’ depending on your style.
(2) 4.7ohm, 1/2 watt resistor [that’s one resistor per seat]
(1) Wire Stripper
(1) Soldering Iron*
(1) Helping Hands, or ‘Third Hand’ electrical holder
*Can be used in lieu of Solder
(4) Electrical Butt COnnectors
(1) Roll of Electrical Tape
(1) Wire Crimper
Some may want to use electrical butt connectors or crimp tools, this is fine, I prefer soldering my connections and heatshrinking them. It’s all up to you,
Now, assuming you still have your stock seat somewhere around – look under the stock seat, and cut off your electrical connector with yellow tape wrapped around it, leaving several inches of wire on the connector for you to strip off. Do this for both seats.
Then, Un wrap your yellow tape from the connector, and strip the ends of the wire.
Put your connector into your Third Hand to hold it for you, and wrap one end of your resistor around the exposed wire. Solder this connection together, using your solder gun, heat the connection from below, and press your solder down on the connection from the top. The hot wire will melt the solder and draw it down between the strands of copper, you don’t have to heat the solder directly. Ensure you get a shiny finish on the solder, if it looks dull, you have air in the solder connection and need to remelt the metal to get a good connection.
Now, slide come heat shrink down over your soldered connection, and heatshrink that puppy on. Then, slide another peice of sleeve over your now smaller, melted heatshrink, so you can use it for the next connection. Bend the resistor around in a U shape so it can be wrapped around the other wire of the connector, and solder this end together, and neatly heatshrink the connection. You should look something like this.
Do the same for the other connector, and you’re done with electrical engineering. Just reconnect these suckers in your car under your racing seats. You will need to perform the AIRBAG RESET TRICK in order to remove the airbag light once this is done, and you should be good to go.
Now if you want to retain the usage of your stock passenger weight sensor with your racing seats, and still have a passenger airbag, that is covered below.
Inside the passenger stock seat, is a thing peice of material that you basically sit on everytime you get in the the side seat. It detects whether or not you are heavier than a certain number, and decides whether or not to arm the passenger airbag in the dash in front of you. I think the weight is something like IF > 80lbs, then arm airbag else disarm airbag.
Now I didn’t really take pictures on this section with the intentions of making a how-to when I stripped the upholstery, so I apologize for the lack of exact images you might want. I’ll try to just do it by memory.
What you will need for this project:
(1) Ratchet 3/8″ drive
(1) 12mm socket
(1) 6″ long extension
(15+) Small cable ties
(1) Needle Nose pliers or Needle Nose Vice Grips
BELOW: Here is the bottom of the passenger seat, but note this is a picture after I was already done, so there isn’t any SRS or Weight Sensor connectors hanging out the bottom of this seat, so don’t get disconcerted when your seat has these in the beginning. You will need to remove the lower pad of the seat to get to the weight sensor. This is accomplished by removing four 12mm bolts.
BELOW: Bottom of passenger seat. Remove the four bolts on the bottom of the seat holding the lower pad in. Just these four bolts actually hold the lower pad in. These bolts have a little number ‘7’ on them, and are 12mm.
BELOW: Bottom of passenger seat, this time a picture of the bolt closer to the front of the seat. Remove the bolt that is flat into the lower pad, not the one sitting at an angle on the bracket to the side. The bolt is 12mm.
Now that the seat pad is loose from the seat, we will work just on the pad. Starting on the underside of the seat pad, take your needle nose pliers and disconnect the seat pad sensor wire from the plastic clips holding it down. THen, with your pliers again, find the small metal rings that hold the black fabric to the seat foam/frame. Grab each ring and twist it until unwravels, disconnecting the black fabric from the seatpad. The small rings are actually wrapped around a strong metal rod going through the foam seat, so you aren’t ripping these rings out, you’re just bending them open using your twisting torque and the rod as a wedge. Discard the metal rings, we will replace these with small cable ties. Peel away the fabric as you realease it from the rings, removing all the rings you can find. Once you uncover the whole pad, you will see the weight sensor is fastened to the seat pad in the same way.
BELOW: The Passenger Airbag weight sensor. Twist off the metal rings holding the sensor to the seat pad, being careful not to rip the seat pad weight sensor too much. Once you have the weight sensor loose, put it off to the side so we can re-assemble the seat pad.
Now to re-assemble/re-upholster the stock lower seat pad, you will take your small cable ties, and run them down and under the metal rods that the rings were attached too, and using the same hole on the fabric that the ring was through, pull the fabric tight to the foam just as it was. If you need to poke a new hole in the excess fabric on the underside, to run cable ties through, feel free, this won’t hurt anything. Make sure you trim the cable ties down to size, and twist them so the trimmed point of the cable tie is pointed down into the fabric. Just as a precaution. This is a very simple shaped seat, and is very easy to wrap. Re-bolt your seat bottom back on the seat frame, and your seat should look good as stock once more, now just with not connectors sticking out the bottom (assuming you already cut the SRS airbag connector off, and did the first airbag fix listed).
Now, take your passenger weight sensor, and stick it in your racing seat, under the center pad, and fish the electrical tail through the back of the seat. Make sure to connect the weight sensor to the harness below your racing seat in the car. If you do not have a removable center pad in your racing seat, and can’t put the sensor under it, you can just just place the weight sensor below your racing seat, and flip it upside down with the white facing up. When upside down, the weight sensor seems to ALWAYS arm, atleast mine did. This way your passenger airbag will just always be on. CAUTION: Ensure if you do this, you DO NOT install a forward facing child seat in the passenger seat. In an accident, the airbag may KILL THE CHILD. (not that I imagine anyone is going to try to mount a child seat into a racing seat, but hey, this IS America.)
Below is an image of the stock weight sensor in the Bride seat center, and connected up. NOTE: THE SENSOR IN THIS PICTURE IS UPSIDE DOWN TO SHOW CONTRAST. ENSURE YOU PUT THE BLACK SIDE UP IF YOU WANT IT TO WORK PROPERLY.
Below is a picture of the seat with the center Bride pad put back down over the passenger weight sensor.