This kit is designed to replace the factory oil cooler/warmer. Factory setup warms the engine oil and maintains it at coolant temperature. However, this often leaks or cannot be reused due to damage or contamination.
* When using this delete kit vehicles must be driven carefully upon cold startup, no high rpm driving until oil temperature warms up *
Oil filter stud
Thermostat (without coolant hose fitting)
The block plug replaces the metal line running from block to the factory oil warmer plate
Oil filter stud is used for attaching oil filter to engine block once the oil warmer plate has been removed
Welded coolant block replaces factory coolant block as well as the rubber hose
The videos below show you the best way to remove and replace your ABS actuator pump. It is very important that you use the SAME EXACT part number as your old one to avoid any issues. You can find them used on eBay or junkyard. I was getting code C1111 NISSAN – ABS Pump Motor. I used an ABS code reader to get the codes.
I picked up a working used ABS actuator from a friend for $100 bucks. It took me about 2 1/2 hours to get the job done. I removed the windshield wipers and the plastic/metal window cowl. This provided better access. Make sure you use a 10MM Flare Wrench to avoid stripping any of the lines. It not a very difficult job. In my opinion, the most time consuming part was having to re-bleed all the brakes again.
ABS Light came on
Trouble Code: C1111 NISSAN – ABS Pump Motor
ABS Actuator stayed on after the car is off for a few minutes
ABS was activating under normal regular driving
This is what it looks like when you remove the Window Cowl.
And there is goes.
Old (Left) / Replacement (Right)
This is the part number for my car 47660 7Y002. It’s a 2004 Nissan Maxima with a 4-Speed Automatic Transmission. It needs to be the same exact for your car otherwise you may have issues.
Notes (From Member alchemist.zim):
Find someone with an ABS scanner, and get ALL ABS CODES. There is no point in replacing just the pump if any of your sensors are bad as well
If you do think you need to replace the ABS pump relay make sure you get the correct part number which can be found on the top of the part.
A brand new one from Nissan is gonna run you $1000+. Junkyard prices start at $100 on eBay. If you decide to get a used part make sure it comes with a warranty.
Have plenty of time to devote to the actual repair work. Its gonna take a minimum of 4 hours to do
Unless you plan on dropping the engine, your gonna have to remove the intake manifold. The ABS pump is located on the passenger side firewall, and there is virtually no room to work in there
Take pictures of where all of the lines, and sensors go. Everything becomes a blur when your all done, but you have 1 line loose, and you don’t know where it goes.
BE EXTRA CAREFUL WITH ALL HARD LINES NEAR THE PUMP. You may think they are sturdy, but they really aren’t meant to be moved to much. If something breaks you in for a bad time
Part# (The part number is located on the metal part of the pump directly in the center, the 2nd line of numbers)
ABS Fuse (In the event the ABS Actuator is draining your battery and you cannot fix it right away, this is the fuse you need to remove)
As I’ve stated, before this my ABS pump would stay on as long as the fuse was in place. I removed the ABS fuse located next to the battery to prevent the pump from draining my battery.
!!!WARNING!!! This fuse also controls you power locks, windows, sunroof, trunk lock and turn signals from what I tell. It is a red combination fuse with 3 different fuses in it, with a clear plastic cover on top. You can try it up with a screw driver on the side. Don’t try to use pliers to lift it up or you’ll break a piece of the fuse cover like I did.
Just wanted to provide some confirmation that the 00-03 5thgen 4-Speed Auto Transmission will fit on the 2004 6thgen Maxima (4-Speed Automatic ONLY). I bought a fully built transmission from a 5thgen Maxima at a great deal. That was the only reason I went the 5thgen route. Otherwise, I would of just bought another 6thgen 4-speed auto tranmission (can be purchased for less than $350 used). The oil pan sits on the frame a bit but no big issue.
Year: 2004 Model: Maxima Current Color: Red Transmission: 5-Speed Automatic Trim: SE
Kevin ran 12.801 @ 106.590 in the 1/4 track on April 19th, 2008. The car was on a 75-shot of Nitrous. The event took place at Capitol Raceway, Maryland. Sadly, we lost Kevin in September of 2009 due to his long battle with cancer. We will always miss you Kevin! This post is dedicated to you. You will never forgotten in the Nissan Maxima community!
KintexRacing Upper Intake Manifold
Zex Wet Kit with a 75shot of Nitrous
Greddy SP2 Catback Exhaust
Technosquare ECU Upgrade with timing retarded for Nitrous (7100 Limiter) Eibach Springs Pro Kit Front Lowered 2.0″ and Rear Lowered .08″
Fujita F5 Cold Air Intake
Stock Manifold w/VIAS Block off Plate
NGK 1-Step Colder Plugs
SP Crossed Drilled and Slotted Rotters
Hawk One Brake Pads Front & Rear
Racingline Upper Front Strut Bar
Optima Performance Battery
Custom Two Tone Leather Interior
Diamo 18″ Light Weight Racing Rims on Rear w/stock 245/45/18 tires
Enkei 17″ Light Weight Racing Rims up front w/Nitto 555R Drag Radials 245/45/17 up front
I was shopping around for quality fans for my Nissan Maxima’s (6thgen and 4thgen). The dual Mishimoto fans were not cutting it anymore. And honestly, the Mishimoto fans were really no different than the 14″ generic ones on eBay. I did some research and found a company called SPAL. A fellow member (Javon B.) vouched for these fans confirmed they work very well. All 12-volt puller models, these Extreme Performance Electric Fans offer the most flow and fan area.
My car would overheat at times when going on long cruises with the AC on. I no longer have any cooling issues at all. This fan is very powerful with 2,024 CFM and does the job with just single 16″ Fan. I’m not even using a shroud.
Make sure you use a good relay (at least 40 AMP) before connecting directly to your OEM harness. More info below:
Fan Part Number: 30102049
Fan Price: Between $100.00 -$130.00
Relay Price: It’s about $33 bucks. The part number for it is SPAL-FRH. It’s a 40-amp relay kit. Highly recommended. You can use your own relay brand as well.
Type: High Performance – 12V Puller – Curved Blade
CFM: 2024 cfm
Width: 16.22″ (412mm)
Depth: 3.45″ (87.6mm)
Made in Italy
Old 14″ Mishimoto Fans. These were 1300 CFM but certainly didn’t feel like it.
Comparison of my 16″ SPAL Fan to Mishimoto 14″ Fan
Mounted on `Mishimoto Radiator. It’s literally a perfect fit.
Photo of the SPAL-FRH Relay (40AMP):
If you don’t use a good relay like the one above, this will happen (Photo Courtesy of Javon Bennet)