my6thgen 04-08


Patrick Marcello from my6 FB group  is currently doing a limited run of his 6thgen Custom Fenders. They will be available for sale to members at a great deal. Only 5 initial SETS! You will need to provide the fenders. You can inquire on the Facebook group for additional details.


Will provide an update once more slots become available.


my4dsc: 111

This post is dedicated to our good friend and fellow car cnthusiast Chris Hernandez aka Chernmax. He was a true pioneer in the Nissan Maxima community and never hesitated to help a fellow member out. Chris was the first to turbo a 6thgen Nissan Maxima and inspired many others to push the 6thgen Maxima to the limit. You will be greatly missed Chris. This post is dedicated to you.

With Love – and the Nissan Maxima Community!

Christopher Anthony Hernandez

Sunrise April 23, 1963 – Sunset July 23, 2018

Mod List:

– Speed Force Racing Turbo Kit (Stage 2)
– Turbonetics T60-1 Turbo
– Tial 38mm Wastegate
– Tial 38mm Blowoff valve
– Spearco Intercooler
– B & M SuperCooler Tranny Cooler #70622
– GReddy Profec B spec-II Electronic Boost Controller
– AEM UEGO wide band monitor
– Slit Second A/F Turbo control computer
– Kinetix Intake manifold
– 440CC fuel injectors with Autolight XP Extreme Performance iridium sparkplugs
– Walbro 255High Flow Fuel Pump
– Custom polished Turbo intake pipe
– NWP (Upper/Lower) IM Phenolic Spacers
– OBX-R Silicon Radiator hoses (U/L) New!!!
– COMETIC Head Gaskets
– Arias Low Compression Racing Pistons (1000hp / 8.6 to 1)
– Brian Crower Pro Series Connecting Rods
– ARP Head Bolts
– Unorthodox Racing Lightweight Racing Pulley
– Cosworth High Performance Rod Bearings
– GReddy oil cap
– GReddy radiator cap
– Custom hand painted and airbrushed engine cover (80 hours by graphic artist Joe Kerner) This does NOT come with car, sorry…
– Custom side painted engine covers
– Custom Injen Intake Filter Heat Shield

Exhaust System
– Hotshot Headers with High flow cat (modified for Turbo)
– GReddy SP-II catback system with custom REMUS Duel Turbo exhaust mufflers

– D2 Racing RS Coilovers D2-N06
– Racingline Front and Rear Endlinks (with Energy Suspension bushings)
– Racingline Motor Mount inserts (Front/Rear)
– 2005 Nissan Altima SE-R front lower Anti Sway Bar (24mm verse 22mm)
– Stillen FUSB (custom polished)
– Stillen Rear anti-sway bar
– Custom Rear Upper Support Brace

– Wilwood 4 piston BBK with 13.25″ rotors front
– Wilwood 4 piston BBK with 12.9″ rotors rear
– Wilwood SS Performance Kevlar/steel braided brake line
– Hawk HPS brake pads

– Rims: O.Z. Crono HT Black Painted (19.5 lbs) (18X8 – 5x114mm offset) (newly sodium blasted and repainted!!!)
– Eibach 5mm spacer kit with Tuner lug nuts
– Tires: Nitto 555 Extreme Performance (Ultra High Performance) (240/45ZR/18) (New, less than 500 miles!!!)
– Full racing spare on 5th OZ HT Comp Lightweight Racing Rims and Nitto 555 tire!

– Activetuning ground wiring kit (Blue)
– PIAA 9000 Hyper white Halo fogs.
– Custom LED Tail lights
– Customlightz front headlight mod (Painted semi flat black with upper/lower blue halo’s)
– Custom LED blue lights on lower bumper highlighting intercooler
– Optima Yellow Top power cell (trunk mounted)
– Optima custom polish aluminum battery bracket
– Stinger battery terminals with positive terminal LED readout
– Switchback LED Turning lights

– Activetuning S4.1 Grill (Onyx black with powder coated diamond mesh grill and custom NISMO emblem)
– RedLineMax Front Bumper
– Stillen Side Ground effects (custom aluminum NISMO emblems)
– 07 Rear Bumper conversion
– Debadged trunk with custom Nissan Emblem
– G35 Rear Spoiler (with 4th brake light)
– Custom L.E.D. tail lights
– 35/20/35% window tint (MD state legal)
– JDM Style roof spoiler
– Custom painted hood and roof Nissan Onyx Black

– Momo red crystal shifter
– Momo racing peddles
– Tenko-R billet aluminum e-brake handle
– RedLineGoods custom calf leather ebrakeboot
– Real Burl wood dash kit
– Custom carbon fiber side mirror covers
– B-Quiet Ultimate trunk and rear seat sound proofing
– Hard wired radar detector

my4dsc: 188

Member Credit: Fuzzyknub / EddyMaxx

If you eliminate your EGR valve, you’ll likely get a P0400 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Malfunction trouble code. But no worries, here’s what you need to do to get rid of the code.

EGR (What you will be eliminating/deleting)

1. EGR Block-off Plate

Buy the EGR blockoff plate from NWP (you can also make your own). This will go on the intake manifold when you disconnect the piping from the EGR system. If you are doing an HR swap or have a 07-08 Maxima, then you don’t need to do this. They cost $35 bucks from NWP.

2. EGR Exhaust Plug

For the exhaust side plumbing you’ll either need a plug for the exhaust bung or have headers that don’t have an EGR bung. The EGR exhaust bung plug is a M24 plug. You can actually buy it directly from Nissan using this: Plug Taper – Nissan (14052-21R00)

3. EGR Temp Sensor

This is the smallest of the 2 sensors on the EGR piping under the hood. You can either leave it in the engine bay reading ambient air temp or you can trick the ECM by sticking a 10k ohm resistor in the female connector (as my picture illustrates above). I don’t believe you will go into limp mode if you totally remove this sensor and don’t do the resistor trick but you will throw a P0406 (EGR flow sensor A circuit high input) code.

RadioShack Part #: 2711335 10K-Ohm 1/4-Watt Carbon Film Resistor (5-Pack)

Important Note: Make sure resistor is 10K-Ohm not 10-Ohm. 

4. EGR Valve Sensor

I removed this sensor (4 screws secure it to the piping) from the piping, left it plugged in to the factory harness and zip tied it to some other wiring under the hood. This one is a big deal as you WILL go into limp mode and can’t rev over approx 3k rpms if you take this sensor out from under the hood! Ask me how I know


5. Coolant Lines

If I remember correctly my coolant lines went to the EGR valve, out to the throttle body and back out to the return plumbing. I basically just took the EGR out of the lineup. So the coolant line runs straight to the Throttle body and back out to the return plumbing. I’ll delete the coolant lines to the throttle body at a later date and time as I was doing a LOT of mods at once and didn’t feel like fooling with it at that time & point.

That should do it!

Update from EddyMaxx (June 24th, 2018)

I performed this on my 2004 Nissan Maxima and drove 3K+ miles. No issues or CEL from the EGR delete. The emissions readiness monitors also pick up EGR as PASS!

Photo of my car (Taken Sept 2nd, 2018):

my4dsc: 373

So you get your code scanner and it says something like, “Bank 1 Sensor 2“. So where exactly are these banks located?

Bank 1 means that the sensor is closest to the Firewall.

Bank 2 means that the sensor is closest to the Radiator.

Yup, it’s that simple.

my4dsc: 192

Member Credit: Twin001

Both the Nissan 370Z and the Infiniti G37 calipers are the same size, simply done in different colors respectively.  They both will interchange 100% with each other, and all hardware remains the same for both calipers.  


  • Front caliper: 4-pot
  • Rear caliper: 2-pot
  • Front rotor: 355mm / 14″
  • Rear rotor: 332mm / 13.8″


  • Hardware, front: 2 lbs (reuse existing rear hardware)
  • Front Calipers: 10-11 lbs each
  • Rear Calipers: 5-6 lbs each
  • Front Rotors (14″ Stoptech Slotted): 27 lbs each
  • Rear Rotors (13.8″ Stoptech Slotted): 18 lbs each

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my4dsc: 231

Member Credit: rguerra7

The main parts needed are:

1. Navigation Display Screen (28090 CA100)
2. Display Control Unit (28330 ZC00A)
3. Navigation Unit (25915 CB804)
4. GPS antenna (I bought an aftermarket one that works)
5. Plugs that fit the back of these units (Just searched for Nissan plugs on eBay and bought what seemed to fit).

The Display Control Unit and Navigation Unit came off a 2005 Infiniti QX56. I didn’t buy any special wiring harness, but be prepared to wire 50-70 wires. Most of these wires are interconnected with the control units mentioned above, and only about 20 wires need to be connected to the car.

The schematic for the integrated display system is on page 70 and for the navigation system on page 111.Choose your year, then it’s under the “av.pdf”.

This should work for the 2004-2005 Maxima.

When I started connecting the wires to the car.

my4dsc: 170

Owner:  Erick Villanueva

Year: 2005
Model: Maxima
Color: Black Obsidian (KH3)
Transmission: 6-Speed Manual
Trim: SE


  • GT35 Turbo @ 7PSI
  • Walbro Fuel Pump
  • 350z Fuel Rail
  • JDM 577cc Injectors
  • Tomei Regulator 30psi
  • Gauages (AEM Wideband, Prosport Boost/Oil Pressure)
  • Autometer Turbo Timer
  • OEM 370z Wheels
  • 2007/2008 Hybrid Bumper for 2004-06 Maxima

my4dsc: 343

Member Credit: rguerra7

I just wanted to share my experience, I now have all 4 windows auto up/down and all 4 roll up/down with the remote on my 2005 Nissan Maxima.

I had to buy:

  1. The master switch with all auto switches.
  2. The rear auto switches.
  3. Rear window power motors. The new motor has 6 wires and the original has 2 wires. The new motor has a sensor that tells the window where it’s located, open vs closed and everywhere in between.
  4. Rear door harnesses specifically made for the 4 seater Maxima. The new rear power window motor and rear switches use a different electrical connector.

Note: I had to do some rewiring at the master switch to send the two needed connections to the rear windows.
I sent the Power Window Serial Link and the BAT from the master switch to the rear switches. The auto switches you can get used from a Maxima that had those, the auto rear ones are on eBay right now.

The left harness is 24127-ZA500 and the left window motor is 47-1396. The right components have similar part numbers.

Here are some pics

my4dsc: 51

Member Credit: Eddy

  1. Disconnect battery negative terminal.
  2. Remove the CVT finisher.
  3. Place the shift lever in the Drive position.
  4. Separate the chrome finisher from the shift knob by pushing it down.
  5. Remove the shift knob (1) by removing the spring clip and pulling up. Then remove the chrome finisher (2).
  6. Set the parking brake.
  7. Pull up to release the clips and remove CVT finisher.
    Click the image to open in full size.
  8. Disconnect the bulb housing from the assembly.
  9. Pull up on the rear portion of cluster lid C, once the 4 bottom clips are disengaged, pull rearward to release molded clips at the top of cluster lid C.
  10. Disconnect the electrical connectors.
  11. Remove front air control, storage bin, hazard switch, aux in jack, and power outlet.

    Click the image to open in full size.

  12. Remove cluster lid D screws using power tool.
  13. Pull cluster lid D toward rear of vehicle to release clips.
  14. Disconnect the electrical connectors.
  15. Remove the audio switch (if equipped) and the center vent ducts.
    Click the image to open in full size.
  16. Remove the screws (1), disconnect electrical connectors and remove the center stack (2).
    Click the image to open in full size.

my4dsc: 24

Credit: Sparky’s Answers

This 2004 Nissan Maxima came in with the complaint that the transmission would not shift properly. The customer stated it felt like the transmission was starting in a high gear. I really did not want to work on this vehicle as the customer informed me that the engine and transmission had both been replaced with used parts. You just never know what you will run into when going behind someone else. First the code checks.

Code P0335 stored in the PCM. although the customer had not complained about it, I had noticed that there was an extended crank time before the engine started.

The TCM had a code P0726 stored for a CAN Failure system. In case you were wondering CAN stands for Controller Area Network.  This means that there is a communication problem between modules.

With the key on and the gear selector in the manual shift position the gear indicator in the instrument cluster shows that the transmission is in the 5th gear.

I wanted to do a little research, in that I have never seen a code P0726 before and I wanted to know a little bit more about it. I found that there are some real world anomalies with the factory diagnostic procedures. The TCM is supposed to use a crank sensor signal along with other data to determine shift patterns. The real world has found that cam sensor signals are also involved with this process. The engineers it seems did not plan on this or they did not inform the service information writers about it. Since I did have a crank sensor code I decided to start there. The crank sensor is located at the bottom center of the engine just below the flywheel area.

Everything looks okay here or does it?  Kind of strange how the end of the connector looks like it is lined up perfectly with the edge of the sheet metal shield. A gentle pull revealed that it was not fully seated.

Could it be that it was that simple. This vehicle had been to two other shops before arriving at mine. Using a pry bar, I straightened out the sheet metal shield.

Then installed the connector until the lock snapped into place.

Of course while I was looking around at the problem I noticed quite a few things out of position.

Gee, you think a wiring harness laying on an exhaust pipe might cause some problems?

It amazes and worries me that someone can actually get an engine and or transmission in and out of a vehicle and leave something like this a mess. I had to round up a few bolts and finish installing a couple for brackets and heat shields. Then reroute the oxygen sensor wiring so that it would not be laying on the exhaust.

It does not look too bad now but I informed the customer that the engine installation needs to be gone over to make sure nothing else is loose or not installed.

Now the shift indicator shows that the transmission is in 1st gear. Both the PCM and TCM codes are now gone. The engine also starts as it should.

This one will be back in a few weeks to finish going over the wiring under the hood.

my4dsc: 41