For those looking at boosted setups and want an intercooler, below is one that fit good. It needs to be same-side because trying to route piping on the passenger side will be very rough. Plus with this setup, you can retain your fog lights. It just requires modifying the crash bar for it.
At the bottom of the glove box, there are two black tabs that hold the bottom in place. remove these two tabs.
After remove the tabs, there will be 5-6 screws holding the frame of the glove box in. Remove the screws.
glovebox hanging, the frame is taken off
Gglovebox taken off, frame is off. If you are doing this, checking your in-cabin air filter is a good idea.
And there she is! the ECU, i mean. it is held inside that gold-looking bracket and you can see the connectors from below.
After completing the instructions in the picture, you’re ECU is officially disconnected from the car.
I know back years ago, Jet Performance would mod the ECU for you to make the car faster by mailing it out to them. Technosqaure does or did the same thing. when my friend use to own a 6thgen max, he shipped out his ECU to Jet Performance, and with an intake and a flashed ECU, he beat me by 2 car lengths. my car was in stock form back then. pretty interesting but if you any questions just ask!!
I finally finished installing my last mod. For a while I’ve been searching for a shift light indicator, but nothing as big as a Monster Tach or anything that would make the car look ricey. My idea of a shift light was something that would be small and inconspicuous.
I came across a shift light module from Raptor Performance that allows you to connect a single L.E.D or more. The module is small and can be hidden under the dash and the L.E.D or L.E.D’s can be mounted anywhere in the car. With this module you can have a shift light that is not noticeable and does not take up any space or block your view like a monster tach.
Here are the instructions on how to install the shift light. The total install time was 1 hour and quite simple.
The green wire connects to the tach signal. In our cars this can be found at any ignition coil. Each coil has three wires running to them. Each coil has a red and black wire and the third wire is of a solid color with a stripe. Below is the color configuration for each coil
I tapped the Grey/Red wire with a 22 AWG wire tap and ran a 22 AWG wire into the cabin.
Once I finish running the other end of the wire through the firewall, the next step was to find a 12 volt source and ground. For my 12 volt source I choose the fuse for the rear power sockets
In order to use that same fuse I added a fuse tap
The tap has two slots to add fuses. One slot is used for the original fuse to work with the rear power sockets and the other is used for my new 12 volt source (tack module). Next step was to find a good grounding point
Now with the ground, 12 volt source, and tach signal connected we can now tap these wires into the harness that comes with the module. The harness has a green, red, and black wire. Green is for the tach signal and of course red for 12 volt and black for ground. The L.E.D ground will connect to the Normal Open Contact (see below ).
Now with the ground, 12 volt source, and tach signal connected we decided to install a switch so that I can turn on and off the module. I mounted the switch on the bottom of the panel below next to where the courtesy bulb connects. The 12 volt source from the fuse box connects to the switch and from the switch to the module.
The next step is to find a spot where you want to mount your L.E.D’s. The spot I chose was on the bezel that surrounds the odometer and tach. To connect the L.E.D’s you can connect the + wire to the 12 volt tap we are using for the module and the ground you will need to connect on the Normal Open Contact.
Now that we have all of this installed we can now adjust the dial on the module to your desire settings. In my case I wanted the module to send the signal to the L.E.D’s when the RPM would hit 6,100k. At 6,100K the L.E.D should light up and give me enough time to react and shift before redline.
To do this I set the RPM X 1000 at 6 and the RPM X100 at 1. This gives me a dial of 6,100 RPM. If you want to do 6,500 you would set RPM X 1000 at 6 and RPM X100 at 5. Since we are only using one coil lead in our install you will only leave the cylinder setting at 1 on the dial. You will notice that there is a small toggle switch on the module. This switch was installed on the module in order to read a low volt signal from the coil.
Once you set your signal point on the module hook the harness to the module and turn on your ignition. If the rpm switch isn’t picking up a signal after you program it (noted by rapid green LED flash), slide the small slide switch to the alternate position. Also, make sure your power switch is also on the “ON” position. If the install was done correctly you will see the following
A: The status LED will turn yellow and will flash the number of times which is representative of the RPM X 1000 setting
B: There will be a pause for about two seconds (no status LED flash)
C: The status LED will turn red and will flash the number of time which is representative of the RPM X 100 setting
D: There will be another pause of two seconds (no status LED flash)
E: The status LED will turn orange and will flash the number of time which is representative of the “cylinder setting” (in our case 1), and finally the module will do an LED test (alternating red & yellow) and be ready for use.
Once this is done close you module with its cover and install anywhere under the dash. I installed mine with double sided tape. Clean up the mess and enjoy.
Here is a video of how it works on my car. BTW, I want to thank my other half for helping me record the vid.
I finally decided to swap my rear Airtekk bags on my 2004 Nissan Maxima. The Airtekk Rear design is not great and rubs against the body of the car. Luckily, I was able to catch the issue before I go a leaky airbag on the highway. The Airtekk bags themselves are very slim and I couldn’t imagine getting an even smaller bag. Hopefully, they fix this in the future as every 6thgen Maxima would face the same. You would literally have to hammer the wall so much for the proper clearance (not worth it). The entire install took me around an hour.
Thanks to Rani and Ham for the info.
The Replacement Bags
Rear Bags: “Air House 2” By Universal Air Part # 02-2600 ($79 Each)
Rear Brackets: You will also need brackets for the rear. You will need to call as they are not listed on UAS Website. You need two sets and they are $69.00 each. So $138 for brackets.
You need to remove the Airtekk bag from the strut itself and keep it without the bag. Otherwise, you don’t have a shock absorber and a terrible ride.
This is what the strut looks like installed. The top 2 bolts are 12MM.
Added some black rust paint to give it a fresh look and also take care of the rust.
Car rides so much better. It also sits great. I can go lower in the rear but decided to match it up with the front.
I went to start my car using the auto start and it stalled. I got the car checked and it threw code P0340 Camshaft Bank 1 Position Sensor Malfunction. Below is my guide to the repair.
Car hesitates to start
Car manual mode is stuck in 5th gear
Car slams into R & D
Car won’t go over 2500rmp
Check Engine Light came on
Error Code P0340 was thrown
DISCONNECT BATTERY FIRST!!!
If your stock remove your filter intake portion first using a flat head screwdriver. Disconnect your MAF sensor ( while your here this would be a good time to use MAF sensor cleaner as I did ) Using pliers remove the vacuum hose carefully and remove the rest of the intake box and set it aside. Now move on the upper tube that’s connected to the intake manifold and using the flat head loosen that connection. Set aside that tubing as well Now that you have the room you be able to access the bank sensors better, in this case, were going for Bank 1 which is the green clip located closer to the firewall but just at the base of camshaft near ignition coil 1 as well ( Bank 2 is closer towards the front almost 6 inches from Bank 1 in the direction facing the car bumper still with the same green clip. Using a 10mm socket and extension remove the bolt holding the sensor in place. There is also a small clip holding the sensor harness against a plate to remove this clip so you can manage the sensor better.
Now, this is the hardest part. the clip is a weird design intended to almost never let the sensor go. it involves you pushing up and then pulling down in order for you to release the sensor from the holder and its a pain in the ass to remove.
In case you get the sensor off replace with part # 23731-6J90B which is bank 1. Replace all parts in the order they were taken off. Clear your CEL and all set.
UPDATE from Robert Mandru: Have both the 300zx and 350z bracket adapters. They will NOT clear with Evo X 2 piece rotors, maybe just 1 piece. Even with one piece it still wouldn’t clear the inside, rotor too large with the 350z/G35 adapter. The EVO X top hats are too big and will not allow the calipers to bolt up. Probably could do it with the 300zx adapter without modding the caliper but for god sake, you have smaller bolts that are supporting all the strain coming from holding the caliper in place during braking conditions. Not worth it.
In simple terms….. do not bother with the eBay 300zx Caliper Adapters
If you are looking to upgrade to Nissan 370z / Infiniti G37 Akebono Calipers, then below is the information you need to know when using the Autosports Engineering brackets. The brackets are decently priced and work fine. however, various members have reported some pad “overhang” which has varied (some worse than others). But other than that the brackets work fine and there have been no issues or functionality impacted with the overhang.
Important Note: These brackets for only for the front calipers. The rear Akebono calipers are plug-n-play but only for the 04+ Maximas/Altimas. All you need to do is trim the dust shield as it’s a much bigger rotor.
I decided to change my stock OEM Nissan fans to Mishimoto Slim fans. Below is what I did in order to make the fans plug-n-play, to the stock harness. For Mishimoto, you don’t really need a relay but it doesn’t hurt to have one. If you decide to do stronger fans like SPAL, you will definitely need a relay to avoid melting your wires. Those are very very strong fans of which the stock plugs cannot handle without a relay.
Important Note: Wire colors may be different so please check the factory service manual. You can use the below as a reference.
Get a set of 1995-1999 4thgen Nissan Maxima Radiator Fan harness pigtails. You need the female end to make your Mishimoto fan plug-n-play. On the 04+ Maximas, the female connector is on the fan itself and cannot be reused.
Positive Wires (12+ v): Twist pigtail wire 1 & 2 (Green and Blue) together to the blue wire on the Mishimoto fan.
Ground Wires (-): Twist wires 3 & 4 (Yellow and Black) together to the black wire on the Mishimoto fan.
Test your fan by unplugging the temperature sensor and turning the key to the ON position. Fan should automatically come on. Confirm the fans are also turning in the same direction of OEM fans. Turn off car.
If steps 1-4 are good, solder/heat-shrink wires and repeated for your second fan.