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my6thgen 04-08

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This is a gallery of Secret Sauce Intake Manifold (SSIM) Setups. The SSIM (Secret Sauce Intake Manifold) was created years ago by member SR20DEN. This involves cutting the shelf out of the main chamber of the upper intake manifold and removing the VIAS assembly. This will still lose a little low end power, but the gains in the top end are very noticeable. It’s definitely a modification that is worthwhile.

 

my4dsc: 56

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Member Credit: Whore-Jay

The SSIM (Secret Sauce Intake Manifold) was created years ago by member SR20DEN. This involves cutting the shelf out of the main chamber of the upper intake manifold and removing the VIAS assembly. This will still lose a little low end power, but the gains in the top end are very noticeable. It’s definitely a modification that is worthwhile.

Below are the results of 3 different Intake Manifold setups. All runs done on the same dyno with the same AFR (tuned for 13) and around the same temp. Stock (runfile11), SSIM (runfile10), VIAS delete (runfile7). Your constructive input is welcome but I am not here to argue about any of my results, this is what I did and that is what I got end of story so please no flaming. Enjoy!!!

Stock IM with functional VIAS.

Stock IM with VIAS deleted, NWP Block plate used.

SSIM with VIAS deleted, NWP Block plate used.

All three HP overlay.

All three TQ overlay.

All data combined.

My thoughts on the SSIM vs Stock.

  • First of all I am suprised that the SSIM did so poorly when compared to both the Stock setup and the VIAS delete.
  • It posted losses across the board, it only begun to edge out the stock setup after 5600rpm with a gain of 12hp
  • at 6300rpm.
  • Against the VIAS delete setup it made the same peak power but posted some gains after 6100rpm, average of 5hp with a peak of 7hp at 6500.
  • It was totally killed by the Stock setup from 2500rpm until 3800rpm, max of 24tq at 3400rpm. Never made any gains in usable torque.
  • Killed by the Stock setup for HP as well, losses from 2500rpm until 3900rpm, an average of 10hp with a peak of 16hp at 3500rpm lost to the stock setup.
  • From 3900 until 5600 they were about the same.

My thoughts on the VIAS delete vs Stock.

  • 3800rpm seems to be the magic number in this comparison. Below 3800 the Stock setup is better but after that its all gains with the NWP Blockplate and the VIAS delete!!!
  • From 3800 all the way to redline with the VIAS delete I showed an average 8hp gain across the board with a peak of 10.5hp at 6000.
  • From 2700 until 3800 the Stock setup was good for an average of 8hp over the VIAS delete with a peak of 9hp at 3400.
  • From 3800 until redline the VIAS delete made an average of 8tq more with a peak of 10.5tq at 4200.
  • From 2800 until 3800 the Stock setup was good for an average of 10tq more with a peak of 16tq more at 3400.

The verdict….. Its really just up to what you want to drive with, I am choosing the NWP Block plate with an unmodifed IM for now. 

  • I like the power from 3800rpm until redline rather than power below 3800rpm, I feel the losses down that low are worth the gains I see up high. When I stomp on the gas I dont stay below 3800 for very long, this makes the VIAS delete a beneficial mod IMHO.
  • The gains from the SSIM is irrelevant since it only starts to make HP after 6100rpm and totally destroyed all low end torque. Since I run out of engine the SSIM may be a viable option with a TS ECU and a higher redline, timing etc, etc.

*Mods*

  • Unorthodox racing UDP
  • SSAC headers (no cat)
  • 2.5″ Catback
  • Magnaflow 27X6″ resonator
  • Stillen Exhaust
  • Frankencar WAI
  • Tuned APEXI NEO

my4dsc: 13

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V1 – Block Off Plate

Price: $27.99

Applications

  • 2002 – 2003 Nissan Maxima
  • 2004 – 2008 Nissan Maxima
  • 2002 – 2006 Nissan Altima
  • 2003 – 2007 Nissan Murano
  • 2004 – 2008 Nissan Quest

 Sold As A kit

  • 3 – Properly Sized Stainless Steel Bolts
  • 3 – Stainless Steel Lock Washers
  • 1 – Control Solenoid Valve Vacuum Cap
  • Printed Detailed Installation Instructions with Photos

Made from 6061-T6 Aluminum

The CXJ bop plate replaces the air restrictive OEMV.I.A.S valve. By removing this valve and installing the CXJ bop plate you effectively turn your manifold into an open air system..

V2 – Block Off Plates

Price: 84.99

Applications

  • 2009 – 2015 Nissan Maxima
  • 2007 – 2015 Nissan Altima
  • 2008 – 2015 Nissan Altima Coupe

Sold As A Kit

  • 8 – Properly Sized Black Torx 40 Screws
  • 2 – Control Solenoid Valve Vacuum Caps
  • Printed Detailed Installation Instructions with Photos

Made from 1/4 Phenolic grade material

These plates replace the air restrictive oem V.I.A.S valves. By removing these and installing the CXJ bop plates you effectively turn your manifold into an open air system.

Testing has shown an increase of 7 horsepower increase and 4.3 added ft/lbs of added torque

Video installation part 1 ( 2009 -2015 maxima shown )

Video installation part 2

V3 Block Plates

Price: 84.99
 

Applications

  • 2016+ Nissan Maxima
  • 2016+ Nissan Altima
 Sold As A Kit
  • 8 – Properly Sized Black Torx 40 Screws
  • 2 – Control Solenoid Valve Vacuum Caps
  • Printed Detailed Installation Instructions with Photos
  • Made from 1/4 Phenolic grade material

These plates replace the air restrictive oem V.I.A.S valves. By removing these and installing the CXJ bop plates you effectively turn your manifold into an open air system. The BOP Plate are estimate at an increase of 7 horsepower increase and 4.3 added ft/lbs of added torque

 

 

my4dsc: 27

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V1 -Thermal Intake Manifold Spacers (3.5L DOHC V6VQ35DE)

Price: 164.99

Applications

  • 2002 – 2003 Nissan Maxima
  • 2004 – 2008 Nissan Maxima
  • 2002 – 2006 Nissan Altima
  • 2003 – 2007 Nissan Murano
  • 2004 – 2008 Nissan Quest

CXJ PERFORMANCE is proud to present phenolic its 3pc thermal intake spacers for the nissan. These spacers are made from 3/8 thick high grade phenolic. The spacers will isolate the throttle body , elbow and the manifold from the block.

With the isolated areas spaced off this way the manifold will run about 33 degrees cooler thus creating colder , denser , heavier air into the chamber

Dyno testing has shown an 12 horse power increase and 15 increase of torque.

Sold as a complete kit which includes:

  • 2 – Extended Stainless Steel Manifold Studs
  • 3 – Stainless Steel Manifold Bolts
  • 7 – 8mm Stainless Steel Lock Washers
  • 4 – Stainless Steel Allen Head Throttle Body Bolts
  • 4 – 6mm  Stainless Steel Lock Washers
  • Printed Detailed Installation Instructions with Photos

Please see our testing videos using a 2005 Maxima with these spacers. All CXJ Performance products are dyno tested. NO hypes or selling gimmicks

V2 -Thermal Intake Manifold Spacers (3.5L DOHC V6 VQ35DE)

Price: 179.98

Applications

  • 2009 – 2015 Nissan Maxima
  • 2007 – 2015 Nissan Altima
  • 2008 – 2015 Nissan Altima Coupe

CXJ PERFORMANCE is proud to present phenolic its 2pc thermal intake spacers. These spacers are made from 3/8 thick high grade phenolic. The spacers will isolate the throttle body from the manifold and also the manifold from the block.

With the isolated areas spaced off this way the manifold will run about 23 degrees cooler thus creating colder , denser , heavier air into the chamber

Dyno testing has shown an 10 horse power increase and 12 increase of torque.

Sold as a complete kit which includes

  • 2 – Extended High Strength Manifold Studs
  • 4 – Stainless Steel Manifold Bolts
  • 8 – Stainless Steel Lock Washers
  • 4 – Stainless Steel Allen Head Throttle Body Bolts
  •  Printed Detailed Installation Instructions with Photos

 

V3 Thermal Intake Manifold Spacers

Price: 179.99

Applications

  • 2016+ Nissan Maxima 3.5L DOHC V6 VQ35DE
  • 2016+ Nissan Altima 3.5L DOHC V6 VQ35DE

CXJ PERFORMANCE is proud to present phenolic its 2pc thermal intake spacers. These spacers are made from 3/8 thick high grade phenolic. The spacers will isolate the throttle body from the manifold and also the manifold from the block. With the isolated areas spaced off this way the manifold will run about 23 degrees cooler thus creating colder , denser , heavier air into the chamber.

The intake spacers are estimated at an 10 horse power increase and 12 increase of torque.

Sold as a complete kit which includes:

  • 2 – Extended High Strength Manifold Studs
  • 4 – Stainless Steel Manifold Bolts
  • 8 – Stainless Steel Lock Washers
  • 4 – Stainless Steel Allen Head Throttle Body Bolts
  • Printed Detailed Installation Instructions with Photos

FT-1 -Thermal Intake Manifold Spacer (4.0L  DOHC V6 VQ40DE)

Price: 149.98

Applications

  • 2005 – 2012 Nissan Frontier
  • 2005 – 2012 Nissan Pathfinder
  • 2005 – 2012 Nissan Xterra
  • 2008 – 2012 Suzuki Equator

PLEASE NOTE THAT THE BLACK SPACER IS SHOWN FOR FITMENT PURPOSES. YOU WILL RECIEVE THE BEIGE SPACER

CXJ PERFORMANCE is proud to present phenolic its VQ40 thermal intake spacer. The spacer is made from 1/2 thickness high grade phenolic. The spacer will isolate the manifold from the block.

With the isolated area spaced off this way the manifold will run cooler thus creating colder , denser , heavier air into the chambers

Dyno testing has shown an increase of 7 horsepower with 8 increase in torque across the lower and mid rpm ranges while reducing intake manifold temperatures by 18-21 degrees.

Sold as a complete kit which includes

  • 2 – Extended High Strength Manifold Studs
  • 5 – Stainless Steel Manifold Bolts
  • 5 – Stainless Steel Lock Washers
  • 1 – High Temp Gasket
  •  Printed Detailed Installation Instructions with Photos

 

my4dsc: 32

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Member Credit: Rashun Laboy / David Colaire

Thanks to Rashun and David for finding a source that rebuilds OEM Axles (for ALL Nissan Maxima’s). The shop uses OEM parts for rebuild. Basically just bring them your Axles and they will rebuild it. It’s about a 2-3 hour / same-day turnaround. You can go have lunch and hang around for a bit. They also rebuild many other types of OEM parts such as calipers, alternators and starters.

As of Feb 2018, the shop is still offering this service. The cost of rebuild is $50.00 per Axle. You have to physically bring them the Axles (as they do not ship or sell OEM Axles).

Shop Address:
Quality Remanufacturing, LLC 
565 E 37th St, Paterson, NJ 07513
(973) 523-8800

my4dsc: 166

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Member Credit: Sparky

This 2007 Nissan Maxima came in with the complaint that the gas gauge was stuck on empty. Actually a closer look revealed that the gauge needle was stuck under the empty stop peg. Due to the coloring of the instrument cluster lens I was unable to get a picture of this before disassembly.

If you have a strong magnet you can use it to move the gas gauge needle into the correct position. If you do not have strong magnet or if you just need to know how to remove the instrument cluster, continue reading.

The top cover over the instrument cluster assembly is held in place by spring clips as shown in the next picture. To unfasten the cover lift up to release the clips. Note that there is a tether cable that attaches the cover to the dash carrier. It does not need to be removed. In fact I do not even know if it can be without damaging something.

There is one phillips headed screw behind the middle of the assembly that needs to be removed.

I was also hoping that the other two phillips screws were all that was left to remove the instrument cluster. They do have to come out for the final disassembly to correct the needle issue but not now.

I could feel something holding the bottom of the instrument cluster so I wanted to remove the covers under the steering column. Removing the fuse box cover reveals ons crew to the left.

It has a torx head. There is also one other matching screw under the right side of the panel.

I am not sure if the inner steel panel actually has to be removed but it is only two screws and it made it much easier to take some of the following pictures.

To remove the two lower retaining screws I used a long phillips head screwdriver and magnetised the tip. Also I extended the steering column all of the way out towards the driver’s seat and then fully down.

Looking under the dash I could see where to move the tip of the screwdriver to align it with the screw.

The one on the right is a little bit more difficult to locate and remove. In fact I had to get my longest phillips screwdriver out to do this efficiently. For reassembly I inserted the screwdriver on the left side of the column and attached the screw to the magnetic tip, then carefully slid it to the right to align it with the mounting hole. I know this takes a few special tools and is somewhat tedious but it beats having to drop the steering column and possibly more.

There is one harness connector to remove. The harness also is attached to the cluster by clip shown in the center of the next picture. I am pointing to the left lower mounting screw hole with my screwdriver.

There are a series of plastic clips all of the way around the instrument cluster assembly that have to be dislodged. Also the two screws mentioned earlier.

With the cover removed it is easy to see that the needle is on the wrong side of the stop peg.

A simple little flip with my screwdriver…

…and the needle is back in it’s correct location.

If you want to avoid this problem altogether, never disconnect and reconnect the battery connections with the ignition switched on.

This document has been composed with the online instant web content editor which can be found at htmleditor.tools

my4dsc: 11

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Member Credit: Sparky

This 2004 Nissan Maxima came in with the complaint that the transmission would not shift properly. The customer stated it felt like the transmission was starting in a high gear. I really did not want to work on this vehicle as the customer informed me that the engine and transmission had both been replaced with used parts. You just never know what you will run into when going behind someone else. First the code checks.

Code P0335 stored in the PCM. although the customer had not complained about it, I had noticed that there was an extended crank time before the engine started.

The TCM had a code P0726 stored for a CAN Failure system. In case you were wondering CAN stands for Controller Area Network. This means that there is a communication problem between modules.

With the key on and the gear selector in the manual shift position the gear indicator in the instrument cluster shows that the transmission is in the 5th gear.

I wanted to do a little research, in that I have never seen a code P0726 before and I wanted to know a little bit more about it. I found that there are some real world anomalies with the factory diagnostic procedures. The TCM is supposed to use a crank sensor signal along with other data to determine shift patterns. The real world has found that cam sensor signals are also involved with this process. The engineers it seems did not plan on this or they did not inform the service information writers about it. Since I did have a crank sensor code I decided to start there. The crank sensor is located at the bottom center of the engine just below the flywheel area.

Everything looks okay here or does it? Kind of strange how the end of the connector looks like it is lined up perfectly with the edge of the sheet metal shield. A gentle pull revealed that it was not fully seated.

Could it be that it was that simple. This vehicle had been to two other shops before arriving at mine. Using a pry bar, I straightened out the sheet metal shield.

Then installed the connector until the lock snapped into place.

Of course while I was looking around at the problem I noticed quite a few things out of position.

Gee, you think a wiring harness laying on an exhaust pipe might cause some problems?

It amazes and worries me that someone can actually get an engine and or transmission in and out of a vehicle and leave something like this a mess. I had to round up a few bolts and finish installing a couple for brackets and heat shields. Then reroute the oxygen sensor wiring so that it would not be laying on the exhaust.

It does not look too bad now but I informed the customer that the engine installation needs to be gone over to make sure nothing else is loose or not installed.

Now the shift indicator shows that the transmission is in 1st gear. Both the PCM and TCM codes are now gone. The engine also starts as it should.

This one will be back in a few weeks to finish going over the wiring under the hood.

Learn the solution of the Rubiks Cube and measure your solution times with the online timer.

my4dsc: 18

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Member Credit: Sparky

This 2006 Nissan Maxima came in with the complaint that the gauges and the a/c controls did not work. After the obvious fuse checks I went to the most common location for this problem in Nissan Maximas.

The problem is located behind the a/c control panel and repairs start with removing the shifter knob or handle assembly. To do this the bottom trim piece needs to be pulled straight down. Some wiggling is needed.

Once the trim piece is lowered the retaining clip will be exposed. Use a screwdriver or a pair of pliers to pull the clip out. Be careful not to lose it.

In the following picture you can see all three parts of the handle. The knob at the far right. The lower trim tube in the center and the retaining clip to the left.

To remove the shifter’s trim panel it can be lifted at the rear of the panel as shown below.

After the trim plate is lifted you will find that there are wires attached to the front edge.

I found it easier to disconnect the wiring on the passenger side of the panel first. Then it can be rolled to the left to disconnect the remaining wires. There are thumb latches or locks that have to be depressed before the harness connector can be removed.

Now that the shifter’s trim panel is out of the way the two lower attaching screws for the a/c controls and the cover over the cassette player are exposed and easily removed.

The lower edge can then be pulled out and then the top can be worked free. There is a ribbon cable connector that has to be taken loose. Care should be taken as it is easily broken.

There are two more screws at the lower edge of the radio control panel. Once removed it too can be pulled loose from the dash.

There are wires attached to the backside of the panel.

Now that all of the panels are removed you can finally see the unified meter and a/c amplifier module assembly. The white box in the middle of the next picture with the ribbon cable attached.

I took a quick look at the underside of the module and saw this. Those do not look like factory holes in the plastic.

I finished removing the attaching screws for the center stack assembly.

After pulling it loose from the dash I could access the screws on the side panels. I removed the two upper screws that hold the display face in place. The screws only need to be removed from one side of the assembly.

There are two screws that I had to take out that attach the module to the frame. One on either side and the rear of the assembly.

The screws are different so I was sure not to mix them up. The screws that held the display are shorter and have machine threads. The ones that attach to the plastic module are longer and have much coarser threads.

Note the slot in the module case resembles that of a piggy bank. When shaken it rattles like there is something loose inside.

I went ahead and removed the five phillips headed screws that hold the module together.

I lifted and removed the one cover.

Then I lifted the circuit board and found 21 cents inside the cover.

There were multiple burn marks on the circuit board.

There were also burnt spots on the coins.

The new module is supplied with a piece of felt tape covering the slot. The old module had the part number 27760 7Y01A printed on the outside cover. The new part had the part number 27760-7Y01B on the box.

In a previous life the horizontal panel below the display was used as a shelf. At least for coins.

The new module installed and everything back to normal.

The motto of this repair would be “read the owners manual and only use recommended spaces for storage”. Another adage would be “When does $0.10 plus $0.10 plus $0.01 equal $400+? When you use the unified meter and a/c amplifier module as a piggy bank.”

my4dsc: 7

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