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allGens

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Moderated by: Thomas Perdue

This section is for documenting the top list of verified Nissan Maxima, Altima & Sentra Horsepower (HP) dyno numbers.

Any members with an asterisk (*) next to their names are pending additional verification.

Overall Top List

Top 25 All Motor

Top 25 Supercharged/Turbo

Top 25 Nitrous

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When looking for parts, you usually refer to them as driver side or passenger side. However, there are often times where all you see is either an “LH” or “RH“. While it may seem self-explanatory, there are some people who get it confused and end up ordering the wrong parts. So here’s what they mean (for USA based vehicles):

LH = Left Hand (Driver Side)

RH = Right Hand (Passenger Side)

Example: The fender below says RH. This means it’s for the “Right Hand Passenger Side”.

my4dsc: 132

Moderated by: Thomas Perdue

This section is for documenting the top lists of verified Nissan Maxima & Altima 1/4 mile track times. These are officially the World’s Fastest Maxima/Altima’s at the track with proof and verification. Verification includes having one or more of the following: time slips next to car at track, videos with time displays, dragtimes verified link. 

Overall Top List

Top 25 All Motor

Top 25 Nitrous

Top 25 Supercharged/Turbo

 

my4dsc: 1079

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Are you looking for Forced Induction Ideas on your Maxima? Well look no further. This is a gallery of Forced Induction Maxima setups. Setups include Superchargers, Turbos and Nitrous (N20).

Supercharged



Turbo



Nitrous



 

my4dsc: 222

Member Credit: schmellyfart

I was reading one of Nissan’s technical documents on the HR engine and its improvements HERE when I came across this:

Which then had me wondering if these improved injectors flowed less fuel in FWD applications compared to RWD applications as they did with the First generation VQ35DE. In addition to the flow rate, I was also interested in seeing how the injector spray patterns compared with the different hole configurations.

I had an ASNU Classic Injector Flow Bench at my disposal at school, so I finally took advantage of it, and cleaned & flow tested a handful of injectors to say the least.

Injectors tested:

  • 21 FBJC100 [VQ30DE-K] 5th Gen Maxima
  • 7 FBJC101 [1st Gen FWD VQ35DE] 5.5 Gen Maxima
  • 12 Green Denso [2nd Gen FWD VQ35DE] 7th Gen Maxima
  • 6 Green Denso [VQ35HR] 350z
  • 6 Blue Denso [VR38DETT] GT-R

Test Procedure:

  1. Each Injector was run on a 10 minute automatic cleaning cycle before testing
  2. A test run was then done to set fuel pressure at 3 bar while the injector is spraying
  3. Each injector was tested three times and its results averaged
  4. Each injector test was run for 20 seconds with the exception of the Blue Densos, which were run for 10 seconds

I wasn’t able to take clear pictures of the holes in the injector nozzle plate. So this description will have to do.

FBJC100 – 4 hole
FBJC101 – 18 hole
Green Denso – 12 hole
Blue Denso – 12 hole

Results


FBJC100 left, Green Denso right


FBJC100 left, FBJC100 middle, Green Denso right

Blue Denso

I also recorded videos of pulse testing as well.

 

 

 

Static Flow Test Results at 3 bar:

FBJC100 – 306 cc/min
FBJC101 – 294.25 cc/min
Green Denso – 309.25 cc/min
Blue Denso – 546 cc/min

To sum it up, the Green Densos in the newer VQ35HR and HR styled 09+ VQ35DE have the same flow rate. At that, they only flow a tiny bit more fuel than the FBJC100, but have better atomization. The Green Denso injectors are also lighter in weight than the FBJC100 at 0.070lb each for the Green Denso, and 0.098lb each for the FBJC100.

Thanks to Darren and Trevor for supplying a set of FBJC101, two sets of Green Denso, and one set of Blue Denso to test.

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Member Credit: NISformance

This ‘How-To’ gives a description of the steps required to prepare an HR motor for installation in the 2002/2003 Maxima.

FB: https://www.facebook.com/NISformance/
Contact: darren@nisformance.com

Kit & Recommend Parts (click on image to purchase)

FWD HR Engine Swap Kit

EPS Tuning Oil Gallery Gasket/Hardware Kit VQ35 FWD HR Head engine

There are a few things to keep in mind before beginning your swap:

  • It’s easier to do this swap if you have a 3.5 DE motor laying around, especially if you just pulled it out of the car. You will need to take some things off of the old motor to use on the HR. Without this, there are a few parts that you will have to buy in order to complete the swap.
  • There are some specific tools needed: An ‘E8’ torx socket, 5/16 Allen key, Loctite

Step 1: Stripping the motor

Depending on where your motor came from, there may be a lot of ‘extra’ pieces still attached to it. Some of these will just get in your way while you prep your motor, some can’t be used for this swap.

  • Remove all accessories, which includes the alternator, power steering pump.
  • Remove any harnesses and brackets that are still connected to the motor.
  • Remove upper intake manifold (removing lower manifold is not necessary, but sometimes desirable. If removed, a new gasket should be used to reinstall).
  • Remove oil temperature sender:

  • Remove idler pulley/tensioner ‘spacer’ (seen below in red):

** The injector rail may also be removed, but that isn’t necessary.

Step 2: Cover any openings

There will be A LOT of metal shavings and dust around the motor, depending on how you do the cutting and grinding that comes later. These absolutely CANNOT be allowed to get into the motor.

  • intake ports in the top:

  • exhaust ports on the sides of motor:

  • fuel injector ports if fuel rail was removed:

  • the open ends of any coolant hoses/pipes:

Step 3: Modifying the motor 

Some parts of the motor will need to be cut somehow (tools, methods and results will vary) to allow for proper fitment and function once it’s reinstalled.

** Because of some concerns about the integrity of the stock oil gallery gasket, we at NISformance strongly recommend replacing it in this step. **

  • when changing the oil gallery gasket, this is a good time to grind away the center portion of the power steering bracket before reassembling the front of the motor.
  • grind/cut away the center portion of the power steering bracket. This requires some aggressive cutting, but also needs some attention to detail (cutting too DEEPLY can weaken the integrity of the timing cover. Cutting too WIDE can weaken the remaining brackets that will be needed to hold the alternator):

  • grind/cut away a portion of the metal where the idler pulley/tensioner spacer was:

  • remove exhaust manifold studs at the rearmost exhaust port (close to the trans). This requires an ‘E8‘ torx socket:

  • clean out the threads in the opposite holes using a ‘10×1.25‘ tap.
  • replace the removed studs into the newly cleaned holes:

  • remove lower oil pan.
  • remove upper oil pan.
  • use the oil pan from a 3.5 DE motor…but remove the windage tray. Add your o-rings and seals, and install upper oil pan onto the HR motor.
  • remove the HR water pump access cover, and replace it with the one from the DE motor

Step 4: Adjusting the cam signal wheel

This is a VERY important step and it must be done very carefully for your car to run properly. You have to be accurate.

Apart from the wiring, adjusting the signal wheel is the most detailed work you need to do on the swap. It is important to be very accurate when cutting or grinding, and it’s also extremely important to assemble everything correctly at the end of this step. Pay close attention to the pictures and make sure that your work looks EXACTLY the same!

*You will need to modify your 5/16 Allen key by cutting the arm down so that it is approximately 3/8″ long. This is your ‘special tool’ that you will need to use in this part of the swap.

  • open one of the valve covers.
  • using the ‘special tool’, loosen the signal wheel lock nut and remove the signal wheel from the intake cam:
  • completely remove the inner nubs from the signal wheel without damaging the rest of the inner surface:

  • at the crank, turn the motor until two notches are visible at the top of the cam:

  • add Loctite to the flat inner surface of the signal wheel:

  • reconnect the modified signal wheel to the intake cam…be sure to place it at the proper angle (as shown below) and resecure the lock nut:

  • close and bolt down the valve cover
  • open the other valve cover, and repeat these same steps.

Step 5: Cam Sensor Wiring

Now that all of the heavy wrenching is out of the way, we get to the really important part of your swap. The wiring harness in your car needs to be connected to the newer motor, and it’s not just a ‘plug-and-play’ situation. These diagrams show you the changes that need to be made to make your DE harness control your HR motor:

** THESE WIRE CONNECTIONS ARE CRITICAL. MAKE SURE THAT THEY ARE CONNECTED CORRECTLY (ACCORDING TO THE INSTRUCTIONS), AND SECURELY. TWISTING THEM TOGETHER IS NOT GOOD ENOUGH. **

The stock cam signal wire will be intercepted (cut) by the cam signal inverter supplied with the swap kit. There are six wires on the cam signal inverter…here’s how you connect them:

  • the RED wire goes to a 5v source from your car’s harness (to supply power to the sensor)
  • the BLACK wire is ground

For Cam #1…cut the existing wire:

  • the YELLOW inverter wire connects to the existing wire on the CAM side
  • the ORANGE inverter wire connects to the existing wire on the ECU side

For Cam #2…cut the existing wire:

  • the BLUE inverter wire connects to the existing wire on the CAM side
  • the GREEN inverter wire connects to the existing wire on the ECU side

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We’re officially bringing back Maxima of the Month. Just like the good ol’ days of the Maxima forums. We’re doing it by GEN, so there will be multiple winners per month. We would like to give everyone an opportunity to participate and feature their rides on my4dsc.com. This is a friendly competition that is meant to encourage & motivate other to continue modding!

You can submit entries here: Maxima of the Month Submissions

Rules:

  • Open to all Maxima Gen’s
  • You must submit YOUR OWN car (not someone else’s car)
  • The photos must be in HIGH RESOLUTION & CRISP (No fuzzy polaroid looking photos)
  • Must include full mod list
  • You can submit 10-12 (MAX) photos of you car. Photos should include different angles including interior, exterior, engine bay and/or trunk.

Please include the information below in your email request with the subject “my4dsc.com Maxima of the Month“. Below is a sample:

Name: Eddy
Forum Name: EddyMaxx

Year: 1999
Model: Maxima
Color: Sterling Mist Gray
Transmission: Auto to Manual 5-Speed
Trim: SE

Full Mod List / Specs:

  • 2000 Nissan Maxima w/ 335WHP 296TQ
  • 5-Speed Wwapped
  • Vortech V2 Supercharger
  • Front Mount Intercooler
  • Blitz BOV
  • Meth Kit
  • 255 Fuel Pump
  • 440cc WRX Injectors

 

 

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