Push-In -8AN fittings to accommodate the 5/8″ PCV tube found on VQ engines valve covers to clean up your Oil Catch Can setup. These are AN fittings designed to be pushed in your engine valve cover plastic tube outlet, they do not replace the threaded PCV Valve. Made with precision machined 6061-T6 Aluminium, hard-anodized finish and laser-etched RHM logo.
You can order on their website or contact on Facebook.
This is an awesome video explanation on Automotive Relays. Many Nissan Maxima members like to install high-performance cooling fans. If not properly installed using a relay, you can risk burning the wiring out. This has happened to us various times. The video below will help you understand how to do it correctly.
For all you hardcore Nissan/Infiniti enthusiasts, there is finally an open-source solution that allows you to modify and flash ECUs! With a $10 VAG-KKL cable, you can basically flash your own ECU and tune it your to personal comfortable without breaking your wallet. The average tune costs roughly $600+ these days. Since you’re modifying the ROM yourself, there’s no vendor lock-in and you are free to do what you need and want. Great for those who have knowledge of tuning and want to tune their own vehicles!
2000-2001 5thgen Nissan Maxima
2003-2003 5.5gen Nissan Maxima
2004-2008 6thgen Maxima
2009 7thgen Maxima
2002-2004 Nissan Altima
2005-2006 Nissan Altima SE-R
2003 Infiniti G35
And various others……
Links to Tool/Software that you will need (Click links to Download):
You will need to buy an OBD2 KKL VAG-COM 409.1 USB Cable. It costs $10 or less.
It’s all based on the ROM size. If the ROM size is 512K then you should use the 7055_35 kernel. If the ROM size is 1024K then you use the 7058 kernel.
Cars Tuned on ROMRaider / Nisprog
5.5 Gen Maxima Tuned by AdminTuning VQ35 Bolt Ons
Shaquille Jenkins 5.5 Gen Maxima Gen2 VQ35DE
Trevon Walters 4thgen Maxima Hits 11.77 (All Motor) Gen2 VQ35DE
Which ECUs Will This Work On?
Most gasoline Nissan / Infiniti ECUs from ~ 2002 onwards share very similar ECU hardware, based on SuperH microcontrollers manufactured by Renesas (previously Hitachi). This project supports ECUs that use the OBD-II “K line” signal for diagnostics communications.
How Does the Reflash Process Work?
The process is carried out entirely over the OBD-II “K Line” serial communications link through an undocumented set of manufacturer-defined extensions to the standard ISO14230 protocol. Recently, the necessary commands have been reverse-engineered revealing the required steps:
Establish connection to the ECU.
Send the first stage data payload: this is the “kernel”, a simple program that will receive commands and data for the reflash.
Make the ECU run the kernel. From this point on, the kernel runs from RAM and effectively takes control of the whole ECU.
Send the reflash commands and new firmware data to the kernel.
Reset the ECU: the new firmware will now be executed, and the kernel will be completely removed.
The basic kernel is an implementation of an ISO14230-compliant protocol with extensions. It implements the following requests:
Fast ROM dump (tested up to 5.4 kB/s; typical speed is ~100 B/s without a kernel)
Read ROM/RAM/external EEPROM
Write to RAM
Erase flash ROM block
Write flash ROM block
The basic reflashing kernel will support gasoline ECUs with:
SH7055 or SH7058, 0.18um microcontrollers (the most common types)
K line wired to the OBD-II connector pin 7
Unfortunately CAN-only ECUs are not currently supported.
OS: Linux and Windows are known to work; Nisprog is based on freediag source code which is cross-platform and should run on most Linux/UNIX flavors.
Connectivity: a simple USB-OBD adapter is required. These are the “Generic dumb serial adaptors” described in the freediag docs.
OBD2 KKL VAG-COM 409.1 USB Cable
There are several important points to be aware of when using Nisprog:
The ECU is a safety-critical system in a car. Reflashing an ECU can void warranties, reduce the vehicle’s reliability, and cause a whole variety of undesirable consequences. Use of this project and any associated tools (freediag, Nisprog, etc) is of course entirely at the user’s risk. Standard disclaimers apply.
Reflashing an ECU may be illegal in some areas. Responsibility in this matter lies again with the user.
Diesel ECUs are not supported, they are entirely different.
Tuning and modifying ROMs are complex skills that can only be acquired through significant investments of time and effort!
When looking for parts, you usually refer to them as driver side or passenger side. However, there are often times where all you see is either an “LH” or “RH“. While it may seem self-explanatory, there are some people who get it confused and end up ordering the wrong parts. So here’s what they mean (for USA based vehicles):
LH = Left Hand (Driver Side)
RH = Right Hand (Passenger Side)
Example: The fender below says RH. This means it’s for the “Right Hand Passenger Side”.
We designed the SPAL fan wiring harness to enable the simplest installation of our performance fans. It is compatible with all types of vehicles and can be installed on positive or negative ground vehicles with no modifications
185 Degree Thermostat Controlled Relay (185FH)
195 Degree Thermostat Controlled Relay (195FH)
Installing the fan:
When installing electric cooling fans, it is important to cover as much surface area as possible. Mount the fan as high up on the core as possible. Attach the fan to the small area around the core of the radiator where there is a metal lip that is approximately 1/4″ to 3/8″. This will allow mounting of the fan(s) without compromising the core of the radiator.
Mount the relay in a secure place in the engine compartment away from heat sources. Once this is completed, connect the wires per the diagram and notes below.
Red: Connect to the red wire of fan pigtail with pre-terminated yellow crimp.
Gray: Connect to thermostat socket (sending unit) with blue ring crimp connector.
Yellow: Connect to positive battery terminal using the fuse holder and yellow crimp connectors per diagram (see back).
Orange: Connect to ignition switch +12 vdc when engine is in run position. (Hook to constant +12 vdc for the fan to run continuously when the engine is hot even when the ignition switch is off).
Black: Connect ring terminal to chassis ground.
Fuse Holder: Connect fuse holder inline per diagram within 12″ of the battery using ring terminal or equivalent.* Note: On medium profile fans use a 20 amp fuse, on low profile fans use a 15 amp fuse
Installing the Thermostat Switch: The sensor has 3/8″ pipe thread. The thermostat supplied with the kit is an OE type that is designed to mount in the cylinder head of the engine. However, any mounting in water jacket is suitable. The 195FH sending unit comes on at 195 degrees and off at 175 degrees. The 185FH module turns on at 185 degrees and off at 165 degrees. The modules will work on the majority of applications. If a different size adapter is needed, the correct size thread adapter can be found at most automotive parts or hardware stores (1/2″ adapter included in the kit) . Do not use Teflon tape on the sensor it can cause poor electrical contact and incorrect temperature readings.
If you don’t use a good relay like the one above, this will happen (Photo Courtesy of Javon Bennet)