Community Member Credit: Eddy

If you are looking to do a Gen1/Gen2/Gen3 VQ35DE Swap on 3.0 timing, you will need to obtain a set of cam adapters and spacers from Leonard. You can buy them here:

These are high-quality parts and services from a reputable member. We’re thankful that after all these years we have someone still making these. Not to mention he is easy to work with and ships fast.

Leonard’s Engine Bay


Community Member Credit: Eddy

In working on my Gen3 VQ35DE for 4thgen Maxima, I ordered a new OEM Upper Oil Pan. The brand new pans do not come with the oil cooler pressure relief valve, so I ordered one. However, if you decide to use your old greasy upper oil pan, this is a good part to replace to avoid any issues with oil pressure. This is often overlooked. Read the below for more insight into this.

Part Number: 15241-43U0A
Price: $9.00-$10.00

What does it do?

The oil pump maintains oil pressure to lubricate internal components. Most oil pumps are positive displacement pumps, which deliver more oil than an engine needs. To address this, there’s a pressure relief valve located at the oil pump outlet. Its purpose is to open when engine oil pressure reaches a certain value. A problem with the pressure relief valve can cause damage to the engine oil filter and to the engine itself.

Under normal pressure conditions, the oil pressure relief valve is forced down against a spring. As a result, oil goes directly through the pump to the engine. As oil pressure created in the system increases, the valve’s piston is forced against the spring causing it to open. This allows oil to flow back into the crankcase preventing excessive oil pressure. The spring tension of the relief valve determines the maximum oil pressure.

There is no sure way to prevent relief valve failure. In some cases, the valve just wears out over time. However, regular oil changes help prevent sludge and varnish build-up, both of which can cause the valve to stick. Changing your vehicle’s engine oil according to the maintenance schedule is the best way to prevent relief valve problems.

The pressure relief valve can be yet another cause of low oil pressure if the valve sticks open or is held open by a small piece of debris. The relief valve is designed to limit oil pressure as engine speed increases. The valve opens when the pressure reaches a preset value (typically 40 to 60 psi). This vents oil back into the crankcase and limits maximum oil pressure in the engine. The reason for doing so is to prevent oil pressure from reaching dangerous levels. Too much oil pressure can be just as bad as too little because excessive pressure can rupture the oil filter or even blow out pressed-in oil galley plugs in the block.

Community Member Credit: tcaughey

Alright, after tons of research on this subject, it would seem as though it is almost IMPOSSIBLE to actually complete the 95/96 to 97-99 steering wheel swap without any troubles. Of course, there are some, but the swap is actually fairly easy once you know what’s going on.

For those of you who have thought about trying this swap, it truly is fairly easy. I know many have run into problems and thought the only way to make this swap work was to replace more than just the steering wheel, but here is your way around it.

Parts/Tools Needed:

  • 97-99 Steering Wheel
  • 97-99 Airbag
  • 95/96 Clockspring
  • T50 Security Torx bit
  • Socket Wrench
  • Phillips Screwdriver
  • Flathead Screwdriver (to pop off covers around steering wheel)
  • Drill
  • 13/64 Metal Drilling Bit
  • Dremmel tool (Or you can use a larger drill bit on the drill, see below)

Alright, once everything is gathered together, you are ready to start.

**Before going any further, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY**

Removing the steering wheel from the 95/96

Start by removing the plastic trim around the cruise control and the plastic door on the left-hand side of the steering wheel. Once removed, take a look and you’ll see two T50 security Torx bolts holding the airbag in place. Use the T50 security Torx bit along with your socket wrench to remove these two bolts. Once removed, pull gently on the steering wheel airbag, turn over, and disconnect the airbag wire harness. Set the airbag aside.

Now, directly in the steering wheel center, you will see a large nut holding the steering wheel to the hub. Remove this. Once removed, give the sides of the steering wheel a good whack. Try hitting it with the palm of your hand a few times in the 12-6-3-9 o’clock positions. Give the steering wheel a good yank, and it should pop right off. (If you prefer, you can use a steering wheel puller, but it’s not necessarily needed…)

Once removed, you should now see the clockspring.

We will now be underneath the dash and steering wheel.

Remove the fusebox door, and the entire thigh cover around the fuse box underneath the dash. Once removed, you should see a metal brace below the steering wheel. Remove this. Now, you should see 6 holes with Philips screws holding the black plastic around the steering column in place. Use a 4″ Philips screwdriver and remove all of these screws. The black plastic should now pop off, and expose the steering column, and the screws holding the clockspring in place. Before doing anything else, try to place the new steering wheel on the hub.

You will notice that the steering wheel does not line up with the clockspring. This is due to the slightly different 95/96 and 97-99 clockspring and steering wheel designs. You could use a 97-99 clockspring, but it will require more work and parts (such as the 97-99 hub, and yes, it is slightly different from the 95/96 hub). The clockspring for the 97 came with my steering wheel, and I can tell you that when you try to mount the newer clockspring, the mounting holes do not line up, and require the 97-99 hub to mount it.

So, for this writeup, we will be using the original 95/96 clockspring.

Remove the 4 screws holding the clockspring in place. Disconnect the clockspring harness underneath the steering wheel. Once removed, you can now test the fitment of the 95/96 clockspring to the 97/99 steering wheel. Line up the plastic square (the one where the wires are coming out of), with the square-ish hole on the backside of the wheel. As you can see, it ALMOST fits, but not quite. And, you’ll notice that hole for the nub on the clock spring is a little off. Here is where we do a little modification.

Take note as to where the hole for the clockspring nub should be. Mark it. This is where you will be drilling a new hole in the steering wheel for the nub to sit into. Drill very carefully, you do not want to ruin the steering wheel covering.

The green circle is the new hole on the 97-99 steering wheel that must be drilled to make room for the nub on the 95/96 clockspring. The yellow arrow is the hole for the nub on the 97+ clockspring; See how the hole is off?

The 95/96 nub we are drilling a hole for is circled in green, also take note of the blue trim ring around the hub. There are little pegs that will line up on the back of the shaft of the actual steering wheel. You will need to rotate this so that the steering wheel shaft holes line up with the pegs. When rotating the blue ring, make sure you keep the black square in the down position.

Once the new hole is drilled in the steering wheel, you can test the fitment again. The nub now goes into the steering wheel where you drilled the new hole, but the square plastic on the clock spring is a little too large to fit into the square opening on the steering wheel. This is where we will use a Dremel tool (or a small saw/knife, VERY CAREFULLY as you do not want to cut the wires coming out of the square). You will want to trim down the bottom quarter-inch of the plastic square. This will give the clockspring the clearance to sit nice and flush with the back of the steering wheel.

The area of the plastic square that must be trimmed is circled in purple. It now looks like a little step. The nub we drilled a hole for in the steering wheel is circled in green

Here the purple circle shows the area where the 95/96 clockspring won’t clear without the clockspring trimmed. Once the clockspring is trimmed into a stair, and the hole for the nub is drilled, the back of the steering wheel will sit flush with the clockspring.

Voila! You have now slightly modified the 95/96 clockspring to fit the 97-99 steering wheel.

The green circle is where the nub is, you cannot see it here due to the black plastic covering the hole. Also, notice this image shows how the steering wheel will line up in the straight position due to the position of the plastic square on the 95/96 clockspring lining up with the square hole on the 97+ steering wheel. As you can see, the steering wheel is also sitting on the hub and clockspring, nice and flush.

You can now reassemble the clockspring to the hub, and the plastic trim that goes around it. YOU NEED TO CENTER THE CLOCKSPRING WHEN REINSTALLING IT. Do this by starting with the plastic square in the down position. Turn the clockspring to the left or right until it tenses up. This is the endpoint of the motion of the clockspring. DO NOT FORCE IT PAST THIS POINT, IT WILL BREAK! You should be able to start in the down position and turn it left and right 2 full turns until you reach the tension point. Once you are sure you can turn the clockspring in both directions the same amount of turns, make sure you reconnect the clockspring to the wiring harness underneath the steering wheel. Only when these steps are completed, you can now place the steering wheel up the clockspring, making sure the wheel is straight. The clockspring nub goes into the new hole, and the black square goes into the square-ish opening on the steering wheel. You might have to play with it a little to make the steering wheel sit flush on the clockspring/hub. You will see a little blue ring that has three nubs that fit inside 3 holes on the backside shaft of the steering wheel. These need to be lined up too. Now, reuse the large nut used to hold the steering wheel to the hub, making sure it is nice and tight. You do not want the steering wheel to slip while driving!

Run the airbag/cruise control wiring harnesses through the backside of the steering wheel and connect the 97-99 airbag harness and the cruise control harness. Use the T50 Torx bit to reinstall the Torx bolts to hold the airbag in place. Snap-in all of your black trim doors/covers around the steering wheel. Reconnect the battery and turn on the key. Your airbag light should come on and start flashing. Don’t worry! You just need to reset it.

To reset the airbag light, turn the key to the ‘on’ position. Locate the little door button sensor below the B pillar. Press this 5 times as soon as you turn the ignition to the ‘on’ position, let any codes go by, and turn the ignition ‘off’. You may have to repeat this a few times, but the light should now go away and not flash.


Here is the center position of the 95/96 clockspring on the hub. If you use the bottom square as your marking point, from this position, I can turn the clockspring about 2 full turns to the left, or 2 turns the right. This means that the clockspring will turn the full 2 turns, and start to “tense up” just as the square is about to go past this point a third time.

There you go. Patients and confidence will allow this to happen. Enjoy!

This section is for documenting the top lists of verified Nissan Maxima & Altima 1/4 mile track times.  All numbers were verified with dyno sheets. These are big accomplishments in the community showcasing the potential of these cars.

Important Note: This list is meant to serve as a reference and motivation purpose vs “who is better and who is faster”.

Overall Top List

Top 25 All Motor

Top 25 Nitrous

Top 25 Supercharged/Turbo


Community Member Credit: Neo Raven456

Alright, so I know this isn’t a complicated procedure, but a lot of people like to know exactly what they’re getting into when they go to do a mod. I’m one of those people. I had found a tutorial before, but it seems it has gone offline or I can’t find it anymore. So I decided to take pictures and write one up while I did the mod myself.

Time: 5-10 min.

What you need:

  • Clear Bumper Lenses
  • Two 1156 Amber Bulbs
  • Two 194 Amber Bulbs

And these tools:

Step 1) Take off the outer light housing using the 1/4 Flathead Screwdriver wrapped in the cloth. Pry from the left side of the housing because the clip is on the right.

Step 2) Unscrew the one Phillips head screw holding the inner housing as seen in the above picture.

Step 3) Remove lights from housings, simply grab the Grey connector and twist, then remove.

*Note* Some states require amber bulbs (NJ does not) to be installed as well since our stock ones are clear, if this does not apply go to Step 4:

Step 3a) For the outer bulbs simply pull the bulb and it comes out

Step 3b) For the inner bulbs twist, then pull

Step 4) Reverse what you just did and your done!

Stock vs Clear

Final Product with clear bulbs

Final product with Ambers

Community Member Credit: nissancaraudio

The Bose system is made up of three components:

  • Bose Head Unit
  • Bose Factory Amplifier
  • Bose Stock Speakers

Lets go over the Bose head unit first:

The bose head unit has three distinct qualities that separate it from today’s common head units

It has no internal amplifier. All standard car stereos have an amplifier inside of the head unit housing and actually, it’s more like a chip. This chip produces about 18 watts per channel into four speakers.

The Bose head unit has no internal amplifier chip instead the bose system has an outboard true amplifier hidden someplace separately inside the vehicle.

Bose does this because they are able to place a much bigger and more powerful amplifier in an area that would of have never been able to fit in the confines of the head unit housing. Bose amps are usually 22 watts per channel and has 5 channels of amplification, the extra channel is for the bose subwoofer.

Differential outputs

All bose head units output from the deck a differential balanced output. The advantage to this uncommon car stereo technology is noise rejection. The differential balanced outputs provide two equal but opposite versions of the musical signal (an inverted signal and a non-inverted signal) the bose amp has differential balanced inputs and that’s where the two versions are subtracted creating the cancellation of noise and as a result the bose system becomes noise free.

Aftermarket head units use standard speaker output technology

Built-in Volume Sensing EQ

The bose system is designed to make its speaker components sound the best it can with its propriety eq volume sensing system. This system limits bass output at higher volumes to protect its stock speakers, this is good news for the stock bose speakers but if you replace them with a higher quality pair, you will not get everything you paid for out of the new pair. not all bose systems have volume sensing eq built-in.

Factory bose amp

Eq setting

Looking at a standard amplifier you will notice that the amplifier gives you different options in tuning. The amp has adjustable cross-over filters such as high pass low pass and all pass. The standard amp even lets you decide on the crossover points for the filter setting.

Bose amps have no user-adjustable buttons or switches to change, the networks for such are built into the amp’s circuitry. The crossover and filters are fixed on the setting that bose has deemed beneficial for the bose factory speaker.

Bose amp Impedance Level

Standard aftermarket speakers all come with a 4-ohm load resistance, every standard head unit amplifier is designed to take a four-ohm load and supply the speaker with about 18-22 watts RMS of power. The bose amplifier can only generate those types of power levels at an extremely low ohm resistance. So they create their bose speakers to be a low ohm load like 2 ohms and 1 ohm even sometimes a 1/2 ohm load. I believe bose does this just to piss us off. if you replace the bose stock speakers with an aftermarket 4-ohm model you will get only about half the power from the bose amp and the speakers will sound less impactful.

Bose Amp Input Signal

An aftermarket head unit has amplifier pre-outs for adding amplifiers to your system.

An RCA cable plugs into your head unit and runs down to and plugs into the input signal on an aftermarket amplifier.

On a bose system you will not find any type of pre-outs for adding an amp. The bose uses a balanced differential unamplified speaker wire-out that runs out from behind the bose head unit and plugs directly into a bose amplifier via a Molex plug. These Molex plugs carry all the speaker outputs from the bose head unit.

Outputs of a Bose Amp

You may see one or two or three Molex connections on an amp of a bose system.

In these plug or plugs is the unamplified speaker signal along with power and ground wires coming from the bose head unit and also the amplified output from the amp to the speakers in the vehicle. Commonly found in the output harness is the tweeter left front, tweeter right front, mid-front left, mid-front right, rear left, rear right, and a sub. The speaker outputs are internally crossed and filtered by the amplifier.

Bose Speakers

The bose speakers incorporate a very low ohm impedance resistance common bose speakers are 2ohm 1 ohm and ½ an ohm. bose does this so it can extract as much power as possible from its amplifiers. To keep this simple the lower the speaker impedance an amp sees on its outputs the more power it can extract from its amplifier. This low speaker impedance can cause problems when trying to replace a bose speaker with a common 4-ohm speaker normally found at any retailer. since the common standard speaker is a 4 ohm model (not including subwoofers) it will extract significantly less power from the bose amp making the new aftermarket speakers have a drop off in volume output.

There are very few options when replacing a bose speaker, you can either scour eBay looking for another used speaker for your same exact vehicle (there are many different types of speakers for the bose system, finding an exact match can be daunting) or you can purchase the only known compatible speakers to work with bose speakers. The infinity kappa series.



This section is for documenting a list of verified Nissan Maxima, Altima & Sentra Horsepower (HP) dyno numbers. All numbers were verified with dyno sheets. These are big accomplishments in the community showcasing the potential of these cars.

Important Note: This list is meant to serve as a reference and motivation purpose vs “who is better and who is faster”.

Overall List

Top 25 All Motor

Top 25 Turbo

Top 25 Supercharged

Top 25 Nitrous

This section is for documenting the list of VQ35DE RIPP Vortech Supercharged Nissan Maxima’s and Altima’s.

Overall Top List