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Community  Member Credit: prostreetonline

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The DTC ODBII trouble code P0335 on a VQ35, found in a Nissan 350Z, Infiniti G35, and many others is a Crank Position Sensor fault, or CKP for short. For this particular write-up we will be showing you How to Service a VQ35 Crank Position Sensor in a Infiniti G35. This sensor is a hall effect-magnetic style sensor that picks up the high and low parts of the flywheel to determine what position the crank is in.

The differences in the teeth of the flywheel provide changes in the voltage feedback given to the PCM from the crank position sensor. The P0335 DTC can be triggered by a few conditions in your VQ35, and needless to say your car will not operate correctly or even start with this DTC.

Here are the detecting condition of the DTC P0335 error code.

Where is my Crank Position sensor?

Easily the most commonly asked question in our How to Service a VQ35 Crank Position Sensor guide. The VQ35 has it’s Crank Position Sensor ( CKP ) located on the bellhousing of the transmission, and it reads the position of the crank by reading the teeth on the flywheel.

how-to-test-vq35-ckp2

How do I know my crank position sensor is bad?

To test your crank position sensor, first raise the vehicle and locate the crank position sensor and the plug leading to it.

ckptest

 

Now that you have located the sensor, unplug the sensor and take a look at the 3 prong weatherproof connector. Don’t forget if you need the how to on servicing your camshaft position sensor, we’ve got you covered.

First you should check the continuity of the wiring by placing the negative terminal on a ground, and then putting the lead to pin 3.

how-to-test-vq35-ckp

Continuity should exist here, so move on to the next step of our How to Service a VQ35 Crank Position Sensor writeup.


ckptest1

 

You can test this sensor using a voltmeter with one end connected to a chassis ground and the positive lead going to the 1 pin on the weatherproof connector.

If these 2 wires have continuity your part is more than likely damaged, as the 2nd pin is the signal wire to the PCM.

volt1

 

Why does my car not start?

The crankshaft position sensor is not transmitting any information to the PCM when trying to crank over your motor, without this sensor the PCM will not know how to operate the engine. This is when you will absolutely need our How to Service a VQ35 Crank Position Sensor article to get your car back on the road.

Where is the Crank Position Sensor pin on my VQ ECU?

Pin 13 is the Crankshaft Position Sensor on your VQ PCM, here is a diagram to help you test continuity should you need it.

vqecupinout

 

This magnetic crank position sensor can be tested by measuring the resistance between terminal 1-2, terminal 1-3, and terminal 2 and 3.

ckptest3

 

All 3 of these combinations must measure resistance at 0 Ω or ∞, if your measurements are outside of this reading your sensor must be replaced.

Once you have the unit replaced, plug in your favorite ODDII scanner and clear the code P0335 and you are ready to rock and roll!

how-to-test-vq35-ckp1

You have now serviced your VQ35 crank position sensor and saved yourself a lot of money in dealer labor.

Happy Driving!

Credit: 2000_Maxima_SE

Symptoms:

  • Today I replaced the fuel pressure regulator. Still no change. I’m still having trouble starting the car. I would have to step on the gas pedal a few times, not all the way though before it’ll start.

How to troubleshoot:

  • This requires two people and one if you have remote start. Disconnect the Vacuum line of the Fuel Pressure Regulator AND Fuel Pressure Damper and check for fuel. There should be NO fuel present in the Vacuum lines or Vacuum port of the Fuel Pressure Regulator and Fuel Pressure Damper.
  • Total Diagnostic time: 5-10 minutes.
  • Difficulty: EASY

The solution:

  • A New O.E. Fuel Pressure Regulator ($70-$120 on EBAY)
  • A New O.E. Fuel Pressure Damper ($115-$150 on EBAY)

** Anyone with basic mechanical skills should be able to replace these parts in 2-4 hours. It’s VERY IMPORTANT when dealing anything fuel related on the car to relieve all the fuel pressure out by removing the 15 AMP Fuel Pump fuse in the fuse box under the dash of the driver side, removing the fuel cap, and starting the car until it can’t start anymore. **

Tools needed for this job:

  • 10mm socket with ratchet
  • Socket extension
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Pliers

The Fuel Pressure Regulator and Damper is fairly easy to replace.

  1. Remove Air Intake.
  2. For the Fuel Pressure Regulator, remove the two 10mm bolts on it. Use pliers to move the clamp down on fuel hose. Then CAREFULLY use a flathead screwdriver to pry off the the fuel hose and vacuum hose on the Fuel Pressure Regulator.
  3. For the Fuel Pressure Damper, there are a total of 5 10mm bolts you have to remove. Two on the Damper, one on the bracket in the middle of the damper hose, and two at the end of the damper hose. Use pliers to move the clamp down on fuel hose. Then CAREFULLY use a flathead screwdriver to pry off the the fuel hose and vacuum hose on the Fuel Pressure

**Make sure there is an O-Ring on the Fuel Pressure Regulator and Damper or else Fuel will be everywhere when you attempt to start the car**

I hope this thread is helpful to anyone who is having similar problems on their Maximas. GODSPEED

Credit: 5thgenmaxima/puppetMaster

Your MAF is located on your air box between your Throttle body and Air filter. It sets about 8-12 inches back from the air filter itself. It has 2 Torx screws holding it down.

The 4 wires are color coated as follows (2000 model) from right to left. (From passenger side to driver side) (Left to right in the pictures)

  • White Wire: Signal wire – This will change as your speed/load changes – This is the wire the ECU/TCM takes information from to alter shifts, A/F ratio, timing,etc.
  • Red Wire: Reference wire – This should stay the same. This wire is from a hot source and has some sort of resistor to send only 5 V to the wire.
  • Black Wire: Ground wire – Should be .05 or less VD from battery ground.
  • Red Wire w/ Green Strip: power wire – Should be battery voltage.

Thanks to puppetMaster for the MAF signal specs they are as follows. All readings are at Engine operating temp, and no load. ( radio, head lights, ac, heat off).

  • SIGNAL WIRE (White Wire)
    Idle: 1.1V-1.5V  (Alldata says 1.2 – 1.8 volt)
    2500 RPM: 1.7V – 2.4V
  • Reference Wire (Red Wire): should be @ or just below 5 V. If this is low your MAF signal wire will send low #’s to the ECU.
  • GROUND WIRE (Black Wire): .05V or less – Should not change more than .02 volts with load or engine speed increase.
  • POWER WIRE (Red with Green Strip) Battery voltage. (13 – 15V) Should be close to the voltage you get when checking battery terminal to terminal. Alldata says 11-14.
    IMO- If you have 11V your battery is either dead or you have an electrical problem….. again-IMO.

I couldn’t find any specs for the ground or reference so these are universal specs among all domestic/import MAF sensors.

Community Member Credit: 96SEmaxB

So I started blowing this in cab 10amp fuse called meter, I checked alternator, battery, called harness lights all the normal stuff, couldn’t find it, meanwhile that fuse controls the cluster and puts the vehicle into fail-safe mode… so I scoured the forums and google and was running out of free time and fuses, so I brought it into the shop (local mechanic)…

It took him 9 hours of following wire and circuit diagrams, Forums, calling Nissan dealerships, had everything unplugged from harness and couldn’t find what was causing the short…

He then noticed on the schematics for that circuit there was a mirror section, not side mirrors but rear mirror, apparently the connection at the actual rear view mirror was toast, melted the wires and shorted internally, unplugged mirror and voilaaa fuse didn’t blow.

So 870$ later I had the issue fixed, a measly 100$ mirror crippled my baby for 3 days and cost me 900$.

I’m just posting this so anyone that runs into the same issue to remember that the rearview mirror may not b on the diagram plainly, but it’s something to check also.

Additional Note:

THANK YOU SOO MUCH

  • This problem happens for me a while back and replaced the fuse and it didn’t pop it happened again and I spent the whole day looking for a short and YouTube videos and forums and I found this one went and looked at the wires behind the mirror they were barley touching so I pulled them apart and replaced the fuse again and it didn’t pop so thank you soon much for your forum.

Community Member Credit: Eddy

I started having issues with my rear trunk latch life gate on my 2004 Infiniti FX35. It just wouldn’t open. For some time, I was just removing the trunk 15A fuse where it would reset the latch. It would eventually open. But this ultimately got worse. I got tired of taking the fuse in and out whenever I wanted to open the trunk. Also, I really didn’t want to spend $100+ bucks on the part to fix it, so I figured I’d try whatever was out there.

So I tried the solution in this write-up. I won’t take all the credit because I found some info on one of the FX35 forums (member Jim Lee). It took me about 20-30 minutes to do and WOW, everything works again. It’s been a few days now and all works fine. Basically, you turn your motor back to brand new again by following this how-to. The motor has something called a ‘commutator’. It needs to be super clean. When I took my motor out, it was very dirty and black. It is the common issue of the brushed motor. You can Google “Commutator” to learn more about it. 

Update 4/9/2021: This officially resolved my issue. All is good and saved me a bunch of $$$. 

Commutator Reference Photo:

Summary: I would recommend try this how-to. It will save you a lot of money and it’s very simple to do. The part is about $100 bucks and labor may be another $100 bucks. This was FREE to me and just took 20 minutes of my time. Plus you learn a little about how these things work.

Nissan OEM Part Replacement Information

If you are looking to just replace and not attempt this how-to, below is the information you need to order the correct part for your FX35. Please cross-check the part number to ensure it works for your generation FX35.

Part Description: Motor-Closure, Back Door
Part Number: 90554-AQ000
Price: $124.03

This video below will show you how to remove the plastic covers to expose and take out the latch motor.

How to Fix and Clean Motor “Commutator”:

Original Photo Credit: Jim Lee via FX Forums

After doing the above and taking out the motor, you can follow the steps below:

Take off the 3 screws on the motor.

Pull the shaft out of the housing.

Simply use a terry cloth rag and apply some elbow grease back and forth to clean it.

These were actual pictures of my FX35. You can see how dirty it was as seen above. You can see the green cloth I used.

After cleaning it, it looks like this. Literally brand new again!

Put everything back together. AND NOW EVERYTHING WORKS AGAIN! Before I would have to take out the trunk fuse in order to reset it and hoped it opened. Now it opens consistently with no issues at!!

Motor Reference Photos:

Community Member Credit: Greg Allen

For future problem solvers, my 2003 Maxima brake and battery lights were flickering. The lights were eventually solid with no battery charge leading to believe an alternator problem. Went through the process of replacing the alternator with a remanufactured unit from Advance Auto. I got everything back together and the battery still wasn’t charging.

I realized the Alternator ground bracket was corroded as can be. Being my first time diagnosing my electrical system I’m now understanding the need for all clean & tight connections. I ended up getting out the multimeter to test continuity and it was so corroded in many spots there was none. I cleaned connections with a silver wire brush on drill brought it from 4v to 14.5v on the new alternator.

Community Member Credit: Thrillho

In case you’ve disrupted your throttle body and need to perform the Idle Air Volume Relearn, you’ve probably noticed that it doesn’t “stick” , meaning it worked fine for the time being and then it didn’t.

I am using the Nissan Data Scan app with an ELM obdii Bluetooth adapter, the car’s 2000 Maxima GLE.

In order to make the Idle Air Volume Relearn stick using any of those apps and Bluetooth adapters, you can’t wipe any pending codes before/after Relearn is performed; for some reason when you use a third party app instead of Nissan Consult, it’ll write the changes onto the same partition as the error codes. What that means is you’re gonna write the IAVR over any pending existing codes in order to make it stay.

1. Don’t wipe any codes or clear the SES light
2. Perform idle air volume relearn

It’ll stay on your ECU as long as there is a pending code or the SES light is on. Once you clear the code and the SES light, your idle air relearn goes away as well. If you clear your codes and then do the relearn, your relearn will get overwritten once the code comes back. If you do the relearn with a pending code, it’ll stay there along with the code.

Member Credit:  bigfatty

I have been getting a few PMs on this from time to time, but most questions have been answered somewhere in this thread, take some time and read because there is alot of good info in here from people other than me. I swapped only two coils in Jan of 2006 and through Oct 2007 have not had a single problem with any additional coils. If you can isolate the bad coil, why replace all 6?

Sooooooo, I had the frigging SES, TCS, SLIP lights which any 5th gen owner should now know is code P1320, which means, drum roll please, Bad Ignition Coil. I was also luckily enough not just to have code once, but twice and also to have a code P0300, which is multiple misfires. I was able to get the codes pulled for free from my Autozone and so I started my quest to fix my car.

Some background info: The original coils from Nissan are garbage and Nissan knows this, yet they have chosen to do nothing about it. They did however update the coils with “newer” ones with a gray dot, that were supposed to be awesome. Well I open my hood, take off the cover and guess what, all my coils have gray dots. So I guess that blows that idea up. I bought my car in 2003 with 80k in miles from Woodfield Nissan in Illinois. So at some point in time they had already been replaced.

Ok, back to my test, I donated to Maxima.org so I could search and spent a night reading about just bad coils. The general consensus is that you should replace all 6 when one goes bad. The rough best price was about $300 for all six. The only problem is that I have this in my life right now that causes me to be short on money.

So after reading, I found a few things that will help in changing just the bad coils as I have done. I can not take credit for this info as pretty much all of it has been tried before, I am just trying to make it as easy as possible for everyone else.

Step #1 – Autozone

You may be lucky enough to have an additional code stored in your cars computer. If you have code P1320 with any P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305 or P0306, that is a misfire on specific cylinder. You now know which one is bad just replace that one, see the pics below on how to remove the coil.

Step 2 – Unplug coil one at a time

Remove your cover by taking the four bolts off your cover, you will need a 4mm allen wrench.

This test will only work if your engine is running really bad idle. If your SES/TCS/SLIP only come on when your engine is under load this test will not work, skip to step 3. My engine was running really rough even at idle, so I started to unplug the coils on at a time. Just squeeze the clip and pull, it will come off.

The first one I tried cylinder #2, when unplugged, made no difference at all in how the engine ran. SO I instantly knew that one was bad. If your coil is good you engine will bog down and almost stall, as you are basically removing a running cylinder. Do this one at a time until you find the one, that when removed, your engine does not seem to run any rougher.

Step 3 – Testing the resistance

You will need a multimeter to do this. I have had mine for a while and it worked fine for this. Its nothing big, and you can pick mine up at Sears for only $19.99. Remove all your coils.

The front three coils are right there held in by one 10mm bolt each. Unplug the clip, remove the bolt and pull. The coil will come right out.