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myFX35-FX45

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Community Member Credit: Eddy

I started having issues with my rear trunk latch life gate on my 2004 Infiniti FX35. It just wouldn’t open. For some time, I was just removing the trunk 15A fuse where it would reset the latch. It would eventually open. But this ultimately got worse. I got tired of taking the fuse in and out whenever I wanted to open the trunk. Also, I really didn’t want to spend $100+ bucks on the part to fix it, so I figured I’d try whatever was out there.

So I tried the solution in this write-up. I won’t take all the credit because I found some info on one of the FX35 forums (member Jim Lee). It took me about 20-30 minutes to do and WOW, everything works again. It’s been a few days now and all works fine. Basically, you turn your motor back to brand new again by following this how-to. The motor has something called a ‘commutator’. It needs to be super clean. When I took my motor out, it was very dirty and black. It is the common issue of the brushed motor. You can Google “Commutator” to learn more about it. 

Update 4/9/2021: This officially resolved my issue. All is good and saved me a bunch of $$$. 

Update 8/25/2024:  I had to repeat the process, but it didn’t work right away. If you run into this, all you need to do is remove the “15A Rear Door Fuse” and then put it back; that should reset it. If the fuse is blown, make sure to replace it.

Commutator Reference Photo:

Summary: I would recommend try this how-to. It will save you a lot of money and it’s very simple to do. The part is about $100 bucks and labor may be another $100 bucks. This was FREE to me and just took 20 minutes of my time. Plus you learn a little about how these things work.

Nissan OEM Part Replacement Information

If you are looking to just replace and not attempt this how-to, below is the information you need to order the correct part for your FX35. Please cross-check the part number to ensure it works for your generation FX35.

Part Description: Motor-Closure, Back Door
Part Number: 90554-AQ000
Price: $124.03

This video below will show you how to remove the plastic covers to expose and take out the latch motor.

How to Fix and Clean Motor “Commutator”:

Original Photo Credit: Jim Lee via FX Forums

After doing the above and taking out the motor, you can follow the steps below:

Take off the 3 screws on the motor.

Pull the shaft out of the housing.

Simply use a terry cloth rag and apply some elbow grease back and forth to clean it.

These were actual pictures of my FX35. You can see how dirty it was as seen above. You can see the green cloth I used.

After cleaning it, it looks like this. Literally brand new again!

Put everything back together. AND NOW EVERYTHING WORKS AGAIN! Before I would have to take out the trunk fuse in order to reset it and hoped it opened. Now it opens consistently with no issues at!!

Motor Reference Photos:

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Community Member Credit: fxlr8

MATERIALS:

  • ORDER YOUR FILTER (MAKE SURE YOU GET THE ACTIVATED CARBON FILTER)
  • Part Number: FC35530

TOOLS:

  • PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER

SAFETY

  • EVEN IF THIS PROCEDURE DOES NOT REQUIRE RAISING OF THE VEHICLE, WE CANNOT STRESS ENOUGH…NEVER GET UNDER A RAISED VEHICLE WITHOUT THE USE OF QUALITY JACK-STANDS

1. REMOVE THE DOOR SILL BY PULLING UP AND UN-POPPING THE CLIPS.

2. UNSCREW THIS PLASTIC NUT AND REMOVE THE SIDE PLASTIC PANEL. THE PLASTIC NUT SHOULD COME OFF BY HAND, IF NOT USE A WRENCH.

3. LOOK UNDER THE GLOVE-BOX AND REMOVE THIS PLASTIC PANEL, PULL DOWN ON THE FRONT AND IT WILL UNCLIP.

4. USING YOUR PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER UNSCREW THESE 2 PHILLIPS SCREWS UNDER THE GLOVE BOX.

5. OPEN YOUR GLOVEBOX AND UNSCREW THESE 4 SCREWS.

6. YOUR GLOVEBOX SHOULD NOW COME OFF (DISCONNECT ANY WIRES NECESSARY – DO NOT DISCONNECT THE YELLOW AIR BAG PLUG/WIRE).

7. TO REMOVE THE FILTER YOU WILL PUSH ON THIS TAB TO RELEASE THE FILTER COVER.

8. PULL OUT THE OLD FILTER.

9. INSTALL YOUR FILTER **(NOTE THE DIRECTION OF AIR FLOW ON THE NEW FILTER – THE AIR FLOWS DOWNARDS IN OUR CARS, SO MAKE SURE YOU INSTALL YOUR FILTER PROPERLY).

NOTE: WHEN PUTTING THE FILTER COVER (DOOR) BACK ON YOU WILL NEED TO LIFT THE FILTER UP WHILE CLOSING THE COVER, THE DOOR HAS TABS ON IT AND THE FILTER NEEDS TO SIT ABOVE THESE TABS.

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Community Member Credit: Eddy

Out of nowhere, I noticed that the trunk on my FX35 was not fully closing. Initially, I thought the actuator was toast and I would need to replace it. When you get the lock, you should be able to hear the trunk latch engage. I wasn’t hearing.

I did some research and found a quick solution. I removed the 15A – BACK DOOR fuse for 30 seconds and plugged it back in. After that, the trunk was opening and closing fine. I may have to replace the actuator soon but at least the trunk is closing. I was worried someone could just randomly open it and take stuff from the trunk.

Hope this helps anyone who has the same issue.

If you need to replace the actual, I found the following information. Adding it here for future reference.

Photo of Actuator

 

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Community Member Credit: Eddy

My recline and power seat move button stopped working. Seems like they were stuck. I’m sure I could have taken it off and tried to prepare it but I found a better solution that worked for me. I bought two Dorman 85919 toggle switches and swapped the button with that. The switches fit great and work 100%. A good option for those who don’t want to pay $100 bucks for a new one. This costs less than $10 bucks to do.

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Community Member Credit: angryfx

1- Take the 6 clips out of the grill.

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2- The grill is now free but there are 4 clips that are attached towards the radiator that you use
a plier to take out…. close up of the clip…

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3-the holes were where the clips were held in place to the bumper.

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4-the headlights are held by 4 screws. 2 on top and 2 at thhe bottom… one behind the front bumper
and the other behind the wheel wells.

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5-to remove the bumper you will have to remove 10-15 bolts depending on how many you have under the car
by the bottom plastic cover… but you have to remove 2 screws that hold the bumper to the fender…on each side..

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hard to get a nice pic so these are some supporting pics..
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6- once you unbolt these 2 bolts then you will see that the bumper will kinda wobble… they are still
held in place by 2 clips right under the headlight housing… if you pull the bumper you will see them.

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7- when pulling on them be careful i broke 1 of the clips but when putting them back in i found it
not to be bi issue with just 1 clip instead of 2 but still be careful…

8- with the bumper off or hanging by 1 or 2 screws at the bottom… you can now access the bolt under
the headlight. this shoul be the last bolt to remove… unplug all th electrical harnesses/wiring…
take em out gently…

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9- once you take the headlights out you can now exchange the ballast (3 screws) held in under the headlight.
and the light bulbs..(unclip the metal pin and take the bulbs out..

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this is the ballast ( i didnt know until today)

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now take the silver holder out by twistin like a regular bulb

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you will see the rear side of the bulb

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unclip thes metal sprins by pushing them with your thumb n finger n open the latch….

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10- do it to the other side and put the bulbs and the ballasts back in …..

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11- if you are going to do DTRL SWAP now is the time …. cut the black wire cover tape

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12- i used a nipper to cut the tabs because i was lazy…

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13 – please refer to dtrl swap thread for more info if you have any question.

14 – put headlight back in and connect all the wires

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15 – put the bumper back in …..

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16 – PUT GRILL BACK IN AND CHECK THE LIGHT TO SEE OR OF THEM ARE WORKING WELL CLEAN AFTER
YOUR MESS AND FEEL GOOD DONE!!!!

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Video:

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Credit: la_fx35

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Remove the battery compartment cover and crowl top cover to access the IPDM.

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IPDM

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Lay some rag over the batter terminals so that your IPDM cover won’t be all scratched up and to protect the wires from sharp edges on the battery terminals.

Remove the IPDM, reach behind the IPDM and squeeze the two tabs toward the front of the car and lift it from the bracket.

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Remove the IPDM cover, use a small flat head screwdriver and lightly pry the tabs up while you pull the cover away from it.

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Remove the IPDM from it backing bracket, carefully work the wire bundle out of the guide tabs at the bottom of the backing bracket. Spread the two tabs on top of the backing bracket and then pull up to take the IPDM internal off the backing bracket.

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Credit: shralp

So I just took the plunge into my first tranny fluid change and took some pics. I used 5 quarts instead of flushing all of it.

Important Note: Nissan Matic J was replaced with S.

THINGS YOU’LL NEED:

  • Nissan Matic J transmission fluid (got lucky and found some on eBay but most likely you’ll have to go to a Nissan dealer and pay $15/qt)
  • 10mm Socket
  • Bucket
  • Plyers
  • A friend to help
  • Funnel
  • Ramps/jack stands (so you can fit the bucket under)

STEPS:

1. Lift car and remove splash guard.

2. Remove the engine cover so you can get to the charging pipe behind the engine.

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4. If you’re replacing X quarts of fluid, fill your bucket with X quarts of water and make a line at the water level. This way you’ll know when do stop draining.

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5. Get all your Nissan Matic J transmission fluid opened and lined up so you or you’re friend can continuously pour. Start your engine (nothing will drain without the engine running).

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6. Get under the engine with your bucket ready. You’ll be removing the smaller hose from the radiator (see picture).

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7. With your plyers, squeeze the hose clamp and slide it farther up the hose.

8. Put your bucket directly below the end of the hose and get positioned so you can watch the fluid level reach the line on the inside of the bucket.

9. Pull the hose off the radiator. I used plyers on this step but it might be easier to just use your hand. TIP: JUST AS THE HOSE RELEASES FROM THE RADIATOR, GIVE IT A PINCH TO STOP THE FLUID FROM SPRAYING ALL OVER YOUR GARAGE!. Otherwise you’re garage will look like this.

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10. Yell to your friend to start pouring. Aim the hose at the bucket and stop pinching. Watch the fluid fill the bucket. As soon as it reaches the line in the bucket, pinch the hose again and reconnect it to the radiator. Hopefully all the old fluid is in your bucket and not on your body/garage floor.

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11. Slide the hose clamp back to the end of the hose with your plyers.

12. Turn off your engine and give your friend a high five or a kick in the nuts, depending on his performance.

13. Put the splash guard back on. Screw the dipstick bolt back into the charging pipe. Put your engine cover back on.

14. Good work, now go drink a beer and order some more mods for your FX.

Drain Plug

Checking Fluid Level

Important Notes

Actually the transmission holds 10 3/4 quarts. The 30,000 and 60,000 mile services call for a drain and fill which takes about 3 1/2 quarts to do.

OP what I would do is buy 8 quarts, drain the pan, and refill with 3 1/2 quarts. Drive 50-100 miles and repeat the process. Give the car about 1-2000 miles and repeat. That way you don’t shock the tranny all at once with new fluid. I don’t think the tranny has been hurt unless you track your car but check your fluid ASAP. If it is dark or brown and smells burnt, you probably need to ignore my first advice and take it to the dealer for a complete flush and fill.

The tranny fluid is Nissan S-Matic, it replaced the J-Matic and is the only transmission fluid recommended for our engines.

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I had my tranny fluid changed last month. Me and my buddy did it with the car on the hoist. We used the drain plug on the tranny oil pan. Drained out about 4~6 qts. Then we filled another 4 ~ 6 qts back to the oil pan (depending on how much you drain out). The turn on the engine, with the brake on, shifting from P to R, to D, then D to R to P, each gear stays about the 20 secs to let the new fluid to mix out with the old fluid. Then we did the process again. After that test drive the car in manual mode for about 10 mins. Then measure the fluid level. If not enough, then top out from the tranny dip stick tube with a thin tube funnel.

I do my tranny fluid change about every 30k miles. The car is running fine, no issue with the tranny.

 

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