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OEM Part Number: 22630-44B20
Price: $20.00-$30.00

On the 4th Generation Maxima engine the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor is located in the water outlet tube close to the engine end of the upper radiator hose. There are two sensors in that area. The one nearest the hose is for the dashboard temperature gauge. The ECTS, the one you’re interested in, is right next to the the gauge sending unit. There is a good picture of these sensors in the Haynes manual on page 3-7.

With the engine cold, disconnect the ECTS and measure its resistance. Reconnect the ECTS, start the engine, run it until fully warmed up. Stop the engine, and repeat the resistance measurement. The “warm” reading should be a much lower value than the “cold” reading.

The specs for the ECTS are:

  • Engine coolant temperature 68F, ECTS resistance 2.1 – 2.9 Kohms
  • Engine coolant temperature 194F, ECTS resistance 0.24 – 0.26 Kohms

Replacements Symptoms/Notes:

  • Below about 30 degrees idle will die if I don’t keep my foot on the gas at startup. Once engine is warm it’s OK.
  • Just a quick update for anyone having the same problem. Replaced the CTS (ECU Temp sensor in the picture) and guess what? My multi-year cold start problem is OVER! She runs like new again. Over $1000 spent on MAF, TB cleaning, and more and all I needed to do was replace a $9.00 sensor.

Credit: 5thgenmaxima/puppetMaster

Your MAF is located on your air box between your Throttle body and Air filter. It sets about 8-12 inches back from the air filter itself. It has 2 Torx screws holding it down.

The 4 wires are color coated as follows (2000 model) from right to left. (From passenger side to driver side) (Left to right in the pictures)

  • White Wire: Signal wire – This will change as your speed/load changes – This is the wire the ECU/TCM takes information from to alter shifts, A/F ratio, timing,etc.
  • Red Wire: Reference wire – This should stay the same. This wire is from a hot source and has some sort of resistor to send only 5 V to the wire.
  • Black Wire: Ground wire – Should be .05 or less VD from battery ground.
  • Red Wire w/ Green Strip: power wire – Should be battery voltage.

Thanks to puppetMaster for the MAF signal specs they are as follows. All readings are at Engine operating temp, and no load. ( radio, head lights, ac, heat off).

  • SIGNAL WIRE (White Wire)
    Idle: 1.1V-1.5V  (Alldata says 1.2 – 1.8 volt)
    2500 RPM: 1.7V – 2.4V
  • Reference Wire (Red Wire): should be @ or just below 5 V. If this is low your MAF signal wire will send low #’s to the ECU.
  • GROUND WIRE (Black Wire): .05V or less – Should not change more than .02 volts with load or engine speed increase.
  • POWER WIRE (Red with Green Strip) Battery voltage. (13 – 15V) Should be close to the voltage you get when checking battery terminal to terminal. Alldata says 11-14.
    IMO- If you have 11V your battery is either dead or you have an electrical problem….. again-IMO.

I couldn’t find any specs for the ground or reference so these are universal specs among all domestic/import MAF sensors.

Credit: black_maxed95

Parts that I replaced:

  • OEM Axle Seals: 38342-81X00 (driver side) 38342-81X01 (passenger side)
  • Throw-out Bearing
  • Clutch (I used a 5th gen setup)
  • Stillen Lightened Flywheel
  • Obviously a tranny. I used my old ’95 tranny with 108k. (My current car has 180k)
  • Amsoil synthetic GL-4 tranny fluid. Pricey but recommended.

Alright, step by step removal down to the tranny. First may I note that I think I did this with removing the least amount of stuff possible. I left the cross member on and y-pipe on. Removing these will obviously make removing the tranny easier but is optional. PS: if you remove the cross member you will need to support the engine.

Step One:
Start draining the fluid. Draining the tranny fluid takes a long time so start with this right away. I didn’t and I had to wait for while. This pic shows the bolt that is removed to do this.

Step Two:
Remove the driver side wheel.

Step Three:
Remove the caliper. My 300zx calipers were held on by 2 17mm bolts in the back. Use a wire or zip tie to hold them on the springs so they don’t hang by the brake line.

Step Four:
Remove the Rotors. Mine just slid right off.

Step Five:
Now remove the cotterpin and the washer behind it. Use a pliers.

Step Six:
Remove the 36mm axle nut. Impact gun is strongly recommended. There is also a washer behind it so keep track of that too.

Step Seven:
Disconnect the hub from the struts. It is a 19mm nut on a 17mm bolt.

Step Eight:
Now pull the hub off of the axle. I also used a hammer to help start push the axle out. I again used a ziptie to hang the hub from the strut so it would not pull the ABS line tight.

Now to attack from under the hood. Here is my engine compartment before doing anything. Mostly a mess, I know.

Step Nine:
Remove the intake. Disconnect the vac hoses, MAF and air temp plugs, and disconnect from the throttle body.

Step Ten:
Remove the battery and battery tray.

Step Eleven:
Remove the Starter. This involves disconnecting the big positive cable and the other connector. Then unbolt the 14mm and 17mm bolts.

Step Twelve:
Remove the slave cylinder. This was held on I think by two 14mm bolts. They are hard to get at so I had to use a wrench. Then also remove the ground wire that is bolted right next to where the slave cylinder is.

Step Thirteen:
Remove the tranny mount. First remove the long bolt that goes through it. Then the 4 bolts that hold it onto the tranny. Also notice the oil everywhere?…no wonder there is none in my tranny…it is instead all over everything else!

Step Fourteen:
In order to access a few tranny bolts, it is also necessary to remove the shifter linkages/rods from the tranny. It is ok to let them hang from where they connect to the shifter. Also 1 of these bolts is a pain to get at with out taking off the cross member but I did it with a wrench.
(sorry no pics of this)

Step Fourteen point five:
Also make sure the crank position sensor on the tranny is unplugged and the gear sensor is unplugged. I removed the crank position sensor completely.

Step Fifteen:
Now you should have everything off of the tranny. So now remove all the bolts holding the tranny onto the engine. There should be 8 since one was already taken off with the starter and one with the shifter rod. KEEP TRACK OF THE BOLTS! There are different sizes, what I did was I drew a picture of a circle and placed the bolts on the circle relative to each other on the tranny. 2 of the bolts on the bottom of the tranny I could not completely remove with the cross member still on, but I didn’t need to since they were completely unthreaded from the tranny. Once all the bolts are out its time to take off the tranny. What I did which isn’t recommended as the best, was place a jack under the tranny (but not pushing up on it) and then I used a screw driver to pry it from the engine. Then with the tranny sitting on the jack, I lowered it down. This isn’t recommended cause it is very hard to balance a tranny on the jack.

Step Fifteen point 5:
Remove the clutch. It is held on by I think 10 12mm bolts IIRC.

Step Sixteen:
Remove your flywheel. This is held on by 8 14mm bolts. I used an impact gun with a 14mm impact socket. These bolts are very tight and using a ratchet is difficult unless you can effectively stop the flywheel from rotating.

Step Seventeen:
Assemble lightened flywheel from stock ring gear, timing gear, and the stillen piece.

Step Eighteen:
Reassemble everything in reverse order, making sure to torque everything to spec and to replace the axle seals, and then refill with 4.8ish quarts of tranny fluid. DO NOT use an impact gun to install the flywheel and clutch onto the engine. These bolts are weak and can break…don’t ask me how I know.
Edit: Thanks to nismology for pointing this out, when refilling the tranny, do it with the car level on the ground and refill until oil comes out of the refill hole (It takes approximately 4.8 quarts)

Other notes…reinstalling the tranny was a major PITA since it’s so heavy. I recommend using a tranny jack. If you don’t have a tranny jack and if you aren’t super buff, you should remove the passenger side axle. It’s the same steps as the driver side with the addition of removing 3 bolts for the bracket that holds the axle to the engine.

Credit: Eddy

My air conditioner had stopped working all of a sudden. I tried to add R134A refrigerant but the gauge was showing it was full. At first I was thinking I may need a new AC compressor. But before that I decided to do a few basic checks.

First I checked the sub-harness where you plug-in the compressor and alternator. I noticed the alternator pigtail was in very bad shape. I replaced the harness with a used OEM one and then I went to check the AC fuse. To my surprise it was blown. Soon as I replaced it, the AC compressor kicked right on.

The R134A refrigerant gauge now read low but a good sign since it just needed more. I refilled it with a full can of R134A refrigerant and now the AC is ice cold, super ice cold. I suspect it was the bad alternator pigtail that probably caused two wires to trough. This  is what likely caused the 7.5 amp fuse to blow.

Now back to cruising with a nice COLD AC in this summer weather.

 

Credit: Smooth Operator

I hope it is of use to some of you thinking about swapping out your “standard” wiper switch for a variable intermittent wiper switch (standard on GLEs; included in GXE’s and SE’s S&C package).

My 97 SE 5sp is a stripper. It does not have the variable intermittent wiper which is available only in the SE Security and Convenience package. I did it for several reasons:

  • The “standard” wiper looks like something from a Kia parts bin, whereas the variable intermittent wiper switch matches the shape of the “combo” switch and is more aesthetically pleasing.
  • I truly miss not having the feature of a variable intermittent wiper.
  • Its a simple and relatively cheap “mod”

I did the swap in about 10 minutes. It is a direct swap. You don’t have to mess with any relays, fuses, etc.

Here are the simple steps to swap out the standard wiper switch with a variable intermittent wiper switch:

  1. Remove lower dash cover (held by 2 screws on each bottom corner, and snap-in clips across the top edge of the cover)
  2. Remove metal knee bolster (held by 2 10mm screws)
  3. Remove steering column cover (Held by 6 philips screws; 4 in front and 2 in the back)
  4. You will expose the column switches. The wiper switch is held by two gold-colored screws. Remove the screws and slide out the wiper switch (direction indicated by the blue arrow).
  5. Unclip wiring harness.
  6. Install wiring harness onto new wiper switch
  7. Install is reverse of removal.
  8. Finish Product:

Note that if your Max is a 97-99 you MUST source a wiper switch from a 97-99. The pin outs are different. (Same goes for 95-96 Maximas).

 

Community Member Credit: z_maxima

Hey Guys, I’m sure you have seen this over and over here. I just thought I share my photos as well. I should of replaced the support 6 years ago when I first spotted the rust during an inspection. I had no idea it was a common problem at the time.

After getting some expensive pricing on replacing the support, I decided to do this on my own. Many of the pictures that the owners posted here were very helpful in guiding me to complete this task.

Bumper Removal

1. Remove the center grille.
2. Remove side light first. A small screw on the top. Pop from the front out.
3. Remove main headlights, 2 side bolts, 2 10mm nuts from the back.
4. Remove the lower signal lights. Pop the smaller side marker light first, remove the screw, then remove the main signal light. Disconnect all wires.
5. Remove the 3 bolts holding the center bumper.
6. Remove the left and right retainers on the bumper that were under the Main headlights. 6 10mm bolts total.
7. Remove all the engine covers attach to the bumper underneath
8. Remove front wheels to open the liners to access the 3 10 mm nuts holding the side bumper to the fender. 6 total.
9. Bumper should be free to come off. fog lights are attached to the inner reinforcing bar. no need to remove them. Just disconnect wires.

Photos:

1: 98 SE
2: As soon I remove the lower covers, rust!
3: Front view of the support
4: Underneath view of the support
5: Bumper and wheels removed

6: Complete removal of front end parts
7: Removing the spot welds, 32 total and 6 others I use a sawzall.
8: Removing the old support
9: The mess
10: The old and new support side by side.

11: New support in place
12: New support welded in place.
13: First coat of POR 15 rust preventive paint.

14: Second coat of POR 15 Chassis Coat Black
15: Painted all front end parts before the bumper.
16: Done, 2 days later. A total of 14 hours, due to additional painting and cleaning that a body shop probably wouldn’t do.

 

Credit: Eddy

OEM Part Number: 21430-7999C
Price: $12-$15.00

While the radiator cap is just a tiny component of your vehicle’s cooling system it plays a critical role in helping the engine keep its cool. If you’re wondering whether a bad radiator cap can cause overheating, the answer is a definite yes.

Air pockets in the cooling system from an ineffective seal (such as one in a bad radiator cap) or a lack of sufficient pressure can cause the engine to overheat. The latter lowers the boiling point of coolant which makes it unable to absorb enough heat from the engine. If you see the temperature gauge on the dashboard rise, it’s wise to stop driving as soon as it’s safe to do so and wait for the engine to cool before continuing (or call a tow truck).

If you notice an unexplained coolant from your vehicle’s cooling system or you find your vehicle’s engine is running a little hotter than usual, there could be a problem with the radiator cap.

Please note: Since the cooling system is hot and under pressure when the vehicle has been running, it is very important that you never open the radiator cap until the vehicle has cooled completely. If you attempt to remove the radiator cap while the engine is warm, the coolant (likely as hot as boiling water) would shoot out and could seriously injure you; third-degree burns are a very real possibility.

Additional Info

Credit: Joseph Carsella

Finally got rid of the old hood bumpers. The hood was sitting about half an inch lower than the fender. I wasn’t too sure how to put them in originally but I covered the ‘threads’ in soapy water and pressed them in at a slight angle while turning. Turns out they actually screw in or out once you get the first layer in.

Alternate Solution