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Community Member Credit: allmazda

I ordered the GATES 363060 and if you noticed the picture is the same. The gates hose whined like crazy. The problem I believe is the aftermarket hose is smaller in diameter in the metal ends. I ended up putting my OEM hose back on and the whine went away. It was not leaking but I swapped motors and thought it would be wise to put a new hose on when the motor was out…

The other thing besides the noise was the PS hoses were very hot with the Gates hose. Cool to the touch with the OEM hose.

Additional Info via KP11520

  • I hate to whine about aftermarket hoses, but all I can say is… get used to it if you install one. That’s all you’ll hear when the hose takes over.
  • I have had one for 5 years and I’m really considering buying a new OEM and throwing away the junk that was installed. Between all the typical 4th gen rattling still, with so much suspension replaced and the whine, Postal is on the horizon! Save yourself… Go OEM!

OEM Photo

Community Member Credit: Onur Yaşa

As you know common issue for the second-gen FX/QX is the sunroof leak. That leak goes to the floor then kills the modules like the camera etc. The easy and best way to get rid of that leak is just to put another hose to the downside, drain holes in the engine bay.

In that way, you don’t need to break or put the risk of the trim pieces. I used a garden hose and got it to the cabin from the engine bay. when you look at the pics, you will understand. Tested in heavy rain, no issue anymore.

Community Member Credit: C-Young

Before I start… I understand that this procedure is not a tough one and is pretty straightforward to most. But for others like me who have never even thought about changing out a radiator, this may come in handy. Plus… pics are always a good thing. Also, I am no mech guru of any sort so all comments and tips that may help this thread are very welcome.

I was quoted by Nissan $792 for radiator replacement. Trust me… spend $140 on the radiator and install it yourself!!!

The Leak:

Items Needed:

  1. Drip pan
  2. Pliers (or whatever you’d like to grab those hose clamps)
  3. Socket Wrench
  4. 10mm Socket
  5. Flat Head Screwdriver
  6. Floor Jack (not necessary but makes it much easier)
  7. Radiator Hoses (good to change out after 50-60k)
  8. Radiator Hose Clips (the kind that screw tight, not clamps)
  9. Funnel

Directions:

1. Remove splash shields (right and left) from underneath the front of the car.
(four 10mm bolts each)

2. With the splash shields removed the lower radiator will be visible.

3. With your drip pan below the radiator, unscrew the drain found here using a flat head screwdriver:

It may take a while for the radiator to completely drain. In fact, mine never stopped dripping completely.

4. After the radiator is drained you can begin to undo hoses.
Top:

Bottom:

AT Lines: (2 if you drive an AT)

Also, don’t forget to undo the line from the Reservoir Tank.

I used a pair of rubber bands to keep the AT lines folded closed. Otherwise, you’ll lose AT fluid.

5. Also at this time, unplug the radiator fans from their power source:

6. Unbolt the two radiator holding brackets:

7. With everything unhooked, etc. you can now slide the entire radiator assembly (fan shroud included) up and out of the engine compartment.

8. Unbolt the fan shroud from the old radiator here:

9. Remove fan shroud and place it on your new radiator:

10. Bolt on fan shroud to your new radiator:

11. With the new radiator assembly complete, you can now slide it into its slot in the engine compartment. There are 2 brackets that the bottom of the radiator will fit into. There will be some wiggle.

12. Connect all of your hoses back to the radiator.

13. Connect your fan power lines to their connectors.

14. Bolt your radiator brackets back on so that the radiator prongs go through the bracket holes.

15. Using a funnel and coolant of your choice (I used Prestone 50/50) and begin filling your radiator.

16. Fill until you see the fluid come up to the top.

17. With the radiator cap off, start your car and leave it running for 10-15 minutes all the while checking the fluid level, your temp gauge, and leaks.

18. Let your fans come on to make sure they are working properly.

19. Also check your top radiator hose to make sure it is very warm to the touch so you know your thermostat is not stuck.

20. Once you are satisfied that everything is in order, turn your car off and let it cool down.

21. Pour more coolant in as needed. The level should drop a decent ways after cooling off.

22. Drive your car around and make sure your temp gauge is reading right below half.

23. Also check under your car for any resemblance of leaks.

That’s it! You should be good to go now. Overall it’s a breeze. Just be ready for some mess and trouble getting those damn plastic clips on and off your splash shields.

Community Member Credit: Eddy

Applies to 1995-1999 and 2000-2003 Nissan Maxima. The cross-member bolts show up as two different part numbers but they are the same exact bolt. You can enter the part numbers online and order from whichever site you prefer.

1995-2003 Nissan Maxima Engine Crossmember Bolt:

  • Part Number: 11298-40U01 / 11298-40U06
  • Price: $10.00-12.00

1995-2003 Nissan Maxima Engine Crossmember Mount Bushing:

  • Part Number: 11248-40U01
  • Price: $10.00-12.00

Community Member Credit: 1trucavalier

Tools:

  1. 3/8 Socket Wrench with at least 12″ Extension
  2. 10 mm Socket, 12 mm Socket, 14mm Socket, 15/16, Swivel extension
  3. Clutch Master Cylinder
  4. Pliers
  5. PB/slick 50 etc…
  6. 10mm Wrench for Hydraulic Line Screw

Instructions

1. Disconnect clutch fill cup two 10mm screws (no need take of bracket just cup).

2. Locate clutch master cylinder on the inside of the brake master cylinder.
DONT PANIC when you see how far it is in there.

3. Look under your dash and locate the clutch pedal and follow it all the way to the top until you see a small goldish retaining clip and gold pin holding the clutch master cylinder shaft to the pedal. REMOVE THE CLIP AND PIN

4. Follow the master cyl shaft to the firewall you will see 2 – 12 mm screws. Using your wrench/extension/12mm/swivel socket remove both screws.

5. Get a 14mm socket and remove the windshield wipers.

6. Just under your windshield wipers is a black plastic cowl pull it up in the center and all the plastic fasteners will pop up.

7. Remove the windshield wiper motor and assembly 3 – 10mm screws disconnect pigtail.

8. Just under that is a fake me out strut tower brace just under your windshield wiper cowl. locate the 6-7 10mm screws and remove them. FakeSTB!

9. You should now clearly see the clutch master cylinder using a 10mm wrench remove the hydraulic line connected to the top of it.

10. Remove the master cylinder and clutch fill together makes it easier to remove the clip holding the fill cup hose to the master cylinder. should look like this removed

11. Install the new one connecting the retaining clip and pin the the clutch pedal first then tighten up the screws

You are basically done now. I suggest bleeding the clutch before you put everything back just to make sure the master cylinder works correctly.

Clutch Bleeding 101

1. Fill the clutch cup to the top. (you do not need to put the top back on the pressure that the dealer claims need to be there is BS! The way it works is once you depress the clutch the valve closes so no air will ever get in it. I posted this 2 years ago because I listened to the STEALERSHIP and I was totally wrong also so I apologize for the misinformation back them.

2. Get a 15/16 socket (tiny) go to your clutch slave cylinder and unscrew the bleeder valve.

3. Go back to the inside of the car and pump the clutch with your hand 3 times. pour brake fluid in the clutch cup then go back and pump it another 3 times. I suggest doing it a total of three times just to make sure all air is out of the line.

4. On the last or third try when you push the clutch to the floor LEAVE IT TO THE FLOOR and go and close the bleeder valve. go back and pump the clutch after 3 pumps it should be extremely tight. That’s it your done.

Now just put everything back together.

HELPFUL HINT: If ever you come into a situation when your master cylinder fails while driving or at an intersection or tractor trailer coming at you and it won’t let you shift. Turn the car off and you can put the car into first without the clutch turn it back on and take the hell off 🙂

Video

The mixture ratio feedback control system monitors the mixture ratio signal transmitted from air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor 1. This feedback signal is then sent to the Engine Control Module (ECM). The ECM controls the basic mixture ratio as close to the theoretical mixture ratio as possible. However, the basic mixture ratio is not necessarily controlled as originally designed. Both manufacturing differences (i.e., mass air flow sensor hot wire) and characteristic changes during operation (i.e., fuel injector clogging) directly affect mixture ratio.

Accordingly, the difference between the basic and theoretical mixture ratios is monitored in this system. This is then computed in terms of “injection pulse duration” to automatically compensate for the difference between the two ratios.

“Fuel trim” refers to the feedback compensation value compared against the basic injection duration. Fuel trim includes short term fuel trim and long term fuel trim.

“Short term fuel trim” is the short-term fuel compensation used to maintain the mixture ratio at its theoretical value. The signal from air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor 1 indicates whether the mixture ratio is RICH or LEAN compared to the theoretical value. The signal then triggers a reduction in fuel volume if the mixture ratio is rich, and an increase in fuel volume if it is lean.

“Long term fuel trim” is overall fuel compensation carried out long-term to compensate for continual deviation of the short term fuel trim from the central value. Such deviation will occur due to individual engine differences, wear over time and changes in the usage environment.

Instructions

  1. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
  2. Turn ignition switch OFF.
  3. Disconnect mass air flow sensor harness connector, and restart and run engine for at least 3 seconds at idle speed.
  4. Stop engine and reconnect mass air flow sensor harness connector.
  5. Make sure Detected Trouble Code (DTC) P0102 is displayed.
  6. Erase the DTC memory. (This could be done by disconnecting the car battery for 30-45 min or with a scanner)
  7. Make sure no codes are stored in the ECM.
  8. Run engine for at least 10 minutes at idle speed.

Community Member Credit: CS_AR

Today I finished refurbishing the metal water pipes that run along the left side (e.g. nearest the radiator) of the engine.

After sanding and refinishing the pipes, I used some ceramic VHT exhaust header primer and paint that I had leftover from the Y-pipe. I’ve been slowly baking the pipes this afternoon to cure the ceramic paint before I do the installation. I’ve got to make sure the ceramic paint is fully cured and hardened before installing the o-rings and heater hoses. I did have to spend quite a bit of time sanding and polishing the hose connection areas to smooth off some rust that had formed between the hose rubber and the pipe. We’ll see how well the refinished hose and o-ring connection areas will hold up over time. The pipes are now in better condition than when I started.

Here are a couple of pictures that we may want to reference when someone has a water leak or needs to replace the o-rings or gasket. I like the Felpro gasket with the extra “red seal” area for the aluminum hose manifold mating surface. In the end, I reused some OEM o-rings that I already had on hand. I recommend using OEM o-rings as they will be the correct size.

I used 0000 steel wool to polish the aluminum pipe manifold o-ring and gasket mating surface areas. I might have been better off buying some new OEM pipes that come with a factory powder coat. But we can see how long the refurbished pipes last in the meantime.

Pardon my phone camera, as the pipes are actually a silver metallic color that matches the aluminum pipe manifold part.

Here are a couple of pictures with the refinished pipes on the car. Valve cover polishing was still a work in progress when I took a break to snap the following picture.

I changed the 10mm short bolts pipe mounting bolts to use hex cap heads with lock washers in the picture.

Refinishing the pipes baking the ceramic paint has been a small project in itself. The only reason I attempted it is the easy-to-reach location if something backfires on me. A

s a side note, the OEM heater supply pipe on a VH45DE comes nickel-plated from Nissan. So all I had to do when I got a new one was to polish it up a bit and then clear coat it for the long haul. On a VH45DE the pipe lives at the bottom of “death valley” buried under a Gordian Knot of hose and wiring harnesses. You don’t want to miss anything that could come back as a leak or a problem after you put one of those critters back together. You can see it in the picture below the supply pipe running underneath the short pieces of head coolant hose.

Here are a couple of pictures with the refinished pipes on the car. I sure hope the o-rings hold up. The pipes felt solid and I could tell the o-rings were sealing the connections.

Valve cover polishing was still a work in progress when I took a break last night to snap the following picture. More to come with engine details about the coolant crossover pipe.

The original 10mm mounting bolts were changed to use stainless hex cap heads with lock washers in this picture. If possible, I like to use this type of bolt for coolant and fuel connection bolts.

Fortunately, the 99 model (with a 95 model engine) where I refinished the pipes, had under 80,000 miles. I didn’t notice any rust on the inside of the pipes. The pipes came with an engine from a local car that had been in a bad rear end collision. I bought the motor and had it installed in the 99 model.

This year, I took the pipes from the 99 model’s original engine with under 170,000 miles and refinished them for the 98 model with over 235,000 miles.

There is a 2nd thread on this topic, where I refinished the pipes from the 98 model. Those pipes are some of the worst that I’ve seen to date. In the time frame for the 98 model project, I discovered soaking metal parts in muriatic acid removes rust in a hurry.

I think the quality of water that is mixed with anti-freeze to make coolant has a lot to do with the formation of rust or barnacles in a cooling system.

The 98 model lived in a part of the state when iron deposits in the water so high that people use water softeners to condition the water for indoor use. The iron content in that area’s water will stain plumbing fixtures unless the water is conditioned before use. I could see that in the cooling system when I had it open.

One of my cars, lived for many year in a part of TX that must have had a lot of sulfur or calcium in the water. I found crusty mineral deposits inside its cooling system.

Even though the area where I live has good water that does not require conditioning before use, I like to use a 50/50 mix of distilled water and Xerex G05. After seven years of use on all of my Nissan products, it seems to work.

So here’s a picture of the acid bath where I cleaned up some pipes and put them away in my workshop for another project. Naturally, some light surface rust has appeared on the freshly cleaned pipes because I didn’t prime and refinish. I have an EGR pipe that I will treat sometime later in the year. I have another VQ30 from an I30 that I will be semi-overhauling to have on the shelf in the event I need a replacement engine.

Here’s a picture of the pipes that were refinished in this thread almost 3 years later. I am satisfied with how they are holding up. No surface rust, no complaints, and low maintenance.

I see a coolant flush product advertised for removing rust. This seems to be more popular with iron block engines.

If you find one that you think is safe to use on an aluminum engine, you might try it. One thing to note is acid and aluminum do not get along very well.

An aluminum part that is submerged in a muriatic acid bath that is strong enough to remove rust from metal parts, will fizz like an effervescent tablet. You can watch your part turn dark and start to dissolve right before your eyes. So I would use caution with a coolant flush that was designed for iron block engines that contains a lot of acid.

On one aluminum engine car, I used vinegar like the guy in this video. Though I followed it up two or three distilled water flushes to neutralize the vinegar before refilling with Zerex.

Many years ago I would see some coolant flush products shorten the life of water pumps. So I’ve always been hesitant to use a lot of chemicals to flush a cooling system.

Community Member Credit: z_maxima

Hey Guys, I’m sure you have seen this over and over here. I just thought I share my photos as well. I should of replaced the support 6 years ago when I first spotted the rust during an inspection. I had no idea it was a common problem at the time.

After getting some expensive pricing on replacing the support, I decided to do this on my own. Many of the pictures that the owners posted here were very helpful in guiding me to complete this task.

Bumper Removal

1. Remove the center grille.
2. Remove side light first. A small screw on the top. Pop from the front out.
3. Remove main headlights, 2 side bolts, 2 10mm nuts from the back.
4. Remove the lower signal lights. Pop the smaller side marker light first, remove the screw, then remove the main signal light. Disconnect all wires.
5. Remove the 3 bolts holding the center bumper.
6. Remove the left and right retainers on the bumper that were under the Main headlights. 6 10mm bolts total.
7. Remove all the engine covers attach to the bumper underneath
8. Remove front wheels to open the liners to access the 3 10 mm nuts holding the side bumper to the fender. 6 total.
9. Bumper should be free to come off. fog lights are attached to the inner reinforcing bar. no need to remove them. Just disconnect wires.

Photos:

1: 98 SE
2: As soon I remove the lower covers, rust!
3: Front view of the support
4: Underneath view of the support
5: Bumper and wheels removed

6: Complete removal of front end parts
7: Removing the spot welds, 32 total and 6 others I use a sawzall.
8: Removing the old support
9: The mess
10: The old and new support side by side.

11: New support in place
12: New support welded in place.
13: First coat of POR 15 rust preventive paint.

14: Second coat of POR 15 Chassis Coat Black
15: Painted all front end parts before the bumper.
16: Done, 2 days later. A total of 14 hours, due to additional painting and cleaning that a body shop probably wouldn’t do.