Order Link: https://racespeconline.com/collections/connector-kits/products/gtr-sumi-3-pin
Includes
- Housing
- Lock
- (4) Terminals
- (3) Seals
Fits
- Nissan R35 GTR Ignition Coils
- Other Nissan Coils
- Some Mazda Coils
Credit: Mark Lustgraaf
Just replaced my axles and seals and if anyone’s looking the correct seal, these pictured are the right ones. Fits and no issues on the 7gm Just incase someone needs to do axles and seals and is struggling to find the seal. These are it. Site only goes up to 2012 and says they don’t fit 2014 but they do. New axles feel good (import direct brand, ***reference only) ***reference only, not selling.
Part Numbers:
- 38342-81X00 (Driver)
- 38342-81X01 (Passenger)
Credit: Chris Dimaceo
Changed charcoal canister/vent control valve and blew out the EVAP line from the engine bay (circled). Bolts were snapped from previous owner and self tappers were used. Took out bracket and welded new nuts on and got all new hardware and painted with rust encapsulate.
Credit: Chris Dimaceo
Replaced fuel filler neck with superseded part number, only difference is the gas cap band hole is not there. Also threw on the filler neck cover that is discontinued and only found in 2000-2001 cars apparently. You also you need 4 plastic clips with it.
Part Number: 17290-2Y000
Price: $28.36
Community Member Credit: fxlr8
MATERIALS:
- ORDER YOUR FILTER (MAKE SURE YOU GET THE ACTIVATED CARBON FILTER)
- Part Number: FC35530
TOOLS:
- PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER
SAFETY
- EVEN IF THIS PROCEDURE DOES NOT REQUIRE RAISING OF THE VEHICLE, WE CANNOT STRESS ENOUGH…NEVER GET UNDER A RAISED VEHICLE WITHOUT THE USE OF QUALITY JACK-STANDS
1. REMOVE THE DOOR SILL BY PULLING UP AND UN-POPPING THE CLIPS.
2. UNSCREW THIS PLASTIC NUT AND REMOVE THE SIDE PLASTIC PANEL. THE PLASTIC NUT SHOULD COME OFF BY HAND, IF NOT USE A WRENCH.
3. LOOK UNDER THE GLOVE-BOX AND REMOVE THIS PLASTIC PANEL, PULL DOWN ON THE FRONT AND IT WILL UNCLIP.
4. USING YOUR PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER UNSCREW THESE 2 PHILLIPS SCREWS UNDER THE GLOVE BOX.
5. OPEN YOUR GLOVEBOX AND UNSCREW THESE 4 SCREWS.
6. YOUR GLOVEBOX SHOULD NOW COME OFF (DISCONNECT ANY WIRES NECESSARY – DO NOT DISCONNECT THE YELLOW AIR BAG PLUG/WIRE).
7. TO REMOVE THE FILTER YOU WILL PUSH ON THIS TAB TO RELEASE THE FILTER COVER.
8. PULL OUT THE OLD FILTER.
9. INSTALL YOUR FILTER **(NOTE THE DIRECTION OF AIR FLOW ON THE NEW FILTER – THE AIR FLOWS DOWNARDS IN OUR CARS, SO MAKE SURE YOU INSTALL YOUR FILTER PROPERLY).
NOTE: WHEN PUTTING THE FILTER COVER (DOOR) BACK ON YOU WILL NEED TO LIFT THE FILTER UP WHILE CLOSING THE COVER, THE DOOR HAS TABS ON IT AND THE FILTER NEEDS TO SIT ABOVE THESE TABS.
Community Member Credit: Onur Yaşa
As you know common issue for the second-gen FX/QX is the sunroof leak. That leak goes to the floor then kills the modules like the camera etc. The easy and best way to get rid of that leak is just to put another hose to the downside, drain holes in the engine bay.
In that way, you don’t need to break or put the risk of the trim pieces. I used a garden hose and got it to the cabin from the engine bay. when you look at the pics, you will understand. Tested in heavy rain, no issue anymore.
Community Member Credit: fxlr8
PROCEDURE WAS DONE ON MY 2008 M45. PROCEDURE SHOULD BE SIMILAR ON MOST INFINITI VEHICLES. MAKE SURE TO CHECK YOUR OWNERS MANUAL FOR PROPER FLUID SPECS AND CAPACITIES.
TOOLS:
- JACK STANDS
- JACK
- 10MM HEX SOCKET
- SOCKET WRENCH
- TORQUE WRENCH (FT/LBS)
- BREAKER BAR (IF NEEDED)
SUPPLIES:
- 2 (QUART) BOTTLES DIFFERENTIAL GEAR OIL (75W-90 SYNTHETIC IS WHAT I USED)
- FLUID PUMP
- DRAIN PAN
- RAGS
SAFETY:
- NEVER GET UNDER A CAR WITHOUT OUT QUALITY JACKSTANDS OR RAMPS IN PLACE. NEVER EVER GET UNDER A CAR ONLY RAISED AND SUPPORTED WITH A JACK.
PROCEDURE:
LIFT AND SUPPORT ALL 4 CORNERS OF YOUR VEHICLE WITH JACKSTANDS. YOU WANT TO KEEP THE THE CAR AS LEVEL AS POSSIBLE SO YOU WILL BE ABLE TO PUMP IN THE CORRECT AMOUNT OF FLUID INTO THE DIFFERENTIAL.
LOOSEN AND REMOVE THE TOP FILLER PLUG FIRST (YOU’LL WANT TO REMOVE THE FILLER PLUG FIRST SO YOU CAN BE SURE THAT YOU WILL BE ABLE TO FILL UP THE DIFFERENTIAL AFTER THE FLUID IS DRAINED).
LOOSEN THE DRAIN PLUG. ALIGN YOUR PAN UNDER THE DIFFERENTIAL AND REMOVE THE PLUG.
LET THE FLUID DRAIN COMPLETELY.
AFTER THE FLUID DRAINS, CLEAN THE DRAIN PLUG AND REINSTALL THE DRAIN PLUG. TIGHTEN THE DRAIN PLUG TO 25FT/LBS.
GRAB YOUR FLUID AND PUMP AND FILL YOUR DIFFERENTIAL UNTIL THE FLUID STARTS COMING OUT OF THE FILLER HOLE. YOU MIGHT HAVE SOME FLUID COMING OUT SLOWLY THE WHOLE TIME YOU ARE PUMPING, BUT IT WILL NOT BE FULL UNTIL IT IS COMING OUT PRETTY GOOD (AROUND 1.7 QUARTS).
AFTER THE FLUID IS LEVEL WITH AND COMING OUT OF THE FILLER HOLE PUT BACK THE FILLER PLUG AND TIGHTEN TO 25FT/LBS.
CLEAN UP ANY FLUID THAT YOU SPILLED, ESPECIALLY OFF THE EXHAUST PIPES.
DONE!
MY CAR HAD AROUND 39,000 ON IT, NOT SURE IF THE FLUID WAS EVER CHANGED BEFORE I DID IT.
OLD FLUID ON LEFT / NEW FLUID ON RIGHT.
Credit: Cole Leming
Tools needed:
- Wheels – 21mm/impact/breaker bar
- Sway bar link – 18mm wrench/6mm Allen key
- Strut – 21mm/impact/breaker bar
- Strut mount – 13mm impact/ratchet/ratcheting wrench
- Brake hose holder – Flathead screwdriver
- I use my own torque specs, I suggest you look up the recommended torque specs.