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Community Member Credit: Jerry Herrera

Notes:

  • Overall, pretty much a direct fit. See reference photo on the bracket that needs to be drilled out a little.
  • They look really good in the car and give that bucket seat type feel while driving.
  • You do lose your heated seats and electronic adjustments. But I prefer performance over comfort.

Community Member Credit: 9BlackMaxMS

I figured I would take everyone through a step-by-step process of how to do it. It is really an easy job and anyone can do it.

Parts Needed:

(1) Nissan 350Z Footrest Assembly: Part # – 67840-CD00C ($23.68)

(2) Nissan AE Maxima Clutch/Brake Pedal Cover: Part # – 46531-AB000 ($19.14 ea.)

(1) Nissan AE Maxima Gas Lever Assembly: Part # – 18005-4Y900 ($27.76)

(1) 8×1-3/4 Flat Philip Head Zinc Finish Screws ($1.03)

I got the OEM parts from Dave Burnette at Southpoint Nissan at cost, and after shipping my grand total of parts came to $99.50 with the screws added in.

Tools Needed:

  • Bench Vise
  • Metal Hack Saw
  • Bench Grinder
  • Power Drill
  • 1/8″ Drill Bit
  • 10mm Socket
  • Ratchet
  • Small Philips Head Screwdriver
  • Long Flathead Screwdriver
  • Stubby Flathead Screwdriver

Step One: Preparing The Dead Pedal

The 350Z does not come from the factory with an elevated spot for a dead pedal, therefore there is a lot of unnecessary plastic that needs to be cut away.

First, remove the five (5) screws (four silver metal ones at each corner, and one black one in the center). Put the aluminum cover in a safe spot as it is very bendable.

Once separated, clamp the black plastic base to the bench vise and start sawing away. Leave about 1/2-3/4″ of clearance between the top and the side of the pedal. Next, use the bench grinder or a sander/sandpaper to finish the edge of the pedal and to even out the base. It should look like this when finished:

Step Two: Positioning/Mounting The Dead Pedal

Now that your dead pedal is correctly cut and finished to your liking, use the small Philips head screwdriver and screw in the small black screw to secure the aluminum plate to the base.

Go outside into your car and place the pedal where you would permanently like to place it. Rest it in place and begin drilling. You can drill directly through the carpeting. After drilling the four holes, take one 8×1-3/4 screw and fill in the four holes you just drilled. Voila, your dead pedal is installed and secured safely.

Before:

After:

Step Three: Clutch/Brake Pedals

First off, if you have an automatic, you complete this task with only one pedal (clearly) but can use the same method as I did.

Begin by peeling back the old clutch and brake pedals. They should come off with little effort. I found it best to reinstall the new pedal cover in a specific order, making each corner/side easier to slip on. Using the stubby flathead screwdriver, slide the top right corner and right side on. Next, use the flathead to flip the backing away while you set the top left part of the cover in place. Continue this process until you get the entire cover on.

I found it best to install the cover in the following order:

Continue on and do the same for the brake pedal.

Step Four: Accelerator Pedal

Begin by removing the throttle cable from the very top of the pedal assembly. It is kind of tricky, but if you wedge your long flathead screwdriver between the plastic clip and the metal on the pedal arm, it will pop free. The cable is located where these two red arrows are pointing to:

Next, unbolt the two 10mm nuts holding the pedal bracket in place (located on the firewall). Once these are taken off, the whole gas pedal assembly (pedal and arm) will fall out.

Continue the re-installation of the new pedal in reverse order of taking out the old one (first bolt in the two 10mm nuts that hold the pedal to the mounting bracket, then clip in the throttle cable).

You are finished. Put back your floormat and enjoy.

Before:

After:

Additional Photos (2002 Maxima)

 

Community Member Credit: EddyMaxx

I was looking to replace the steering wheel on my 1998 4thgen Nissan Maxima. I looked at various options and came across an 8thgen steering wheel that fits perfectly and literally plug-n-play (for the fitment and airbag wiring). It feels and looks much better than the regular 4thgen steering wheel. It’s also a flat-bottom steering wheel.

Overall, I’m very happy with the results. It took me about 45-minutes to get everything set up and installed. The cruise control wiring is optional but does require additional wiring if you want to retain the ones on the 8thgen steering wheel. You also need to ensure you get the steering wheel with regular cruise control, not intelligent cruise control.

Installation Details:

  • This setup uses the existing 4thgen Maxima clock spring. The 8thgen steering fits perfectly with no issues. All you need to do is route the clockspring wires through the center of the wheel.
  • I recommend going with the 2016-2018 Maxima steering wheel and airbag combination. 2016-2018 have one airbag plug and the late 2018-2021 have two plugs. You need a single airbag plug for the  4thgen.
  • You cannot use a 2019-2021 airbag on a 2016-2018 steering wheel or vice versa. They have different mounting points. See reference photo in this post.
  • To retain cruise control, you need to get a steering wheel without intelligent cruise control. If you don’t care about cruise control (or will re-route your existing controls to a different location), then you are good.
  • The airbag wiring is very easy. I used a spare 6thgen Maxima air plug to make mines plug and play. Check my video in this post to see more info on it. The 4thgen airbag connector has two wires, making it super easy to make a plug-and-play harness. I tested this out and can confirm you don’t get any flashing airbag lights.
  • For the horn, you use your existing ground wire from the 4thgen steering wheel.
  • If you want to retain the heated feature, you will need to route the two extra wires. You can wire it up to a separate switch or an OEM timer-based switch.
  • The 4thgen did not come with steering wheel audio controls. You can make it work with an aftermarket device but will make the project more complex.

Working Features

  • 100% Working Airbag (No Blinking Airbag Light)
  • 100% Working Horn
  • 100% Working Heated Wheel Function (If wired)

Total Cost: $280.00

  • Airbag: $180.00
  • Steering Wheel: $100.00

Regular Cruise Control vs Intelligent Cruise Control

2016-2018 vs 2019-2021 Steering Wheel Comparison

Installation Photos

Airbag Information

Community Member Credit: Steven Christopher Harrison

Anyone who needs to replace their armrest $13 on Amazon took 15 minutes to do before and after. Although it says Altima, it 100% fits the Nissan Maxima.

Order Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PKG1Q84/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_ASASPVHX6AFFRVWNE6MG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Community Member Credit: vr4z06gt

DISCLAIMER: I am not responsible if you screw this up. It really really really hard to do, but it’s your own fault if you do. This is just for reference.

I decided to change the filter in the driver’s seat this weekend. It is recommended in the owner’s manual that it be replaced every 15K and at the price the dealer wanted, more on that in a minute, it seems absurd.

My local dealer quoted me 2 hours of labor based upon the instructions from the factory. At $100/hr this becomes a $300 repair job. Following this guide: $25ish or possibly free and less than 30 seconds of time.

Here is a diagram of the bottom of the seat:

The area where the filter is located is item 4. It is the round hole, this is the entrance to the blower motor and where the filter goes (red circle).

This job is actually very very simple, if it takes longer than 30 seconds you are doing something wrong.

  1. Raise the back of the driver’s seat as high as possible
  2. Insert hand under the seat on the left of the seat if you are facing forward. About 3 inches in you will feel a fuzzy disk. Spin that counter-clockwise (your hand is upside down) and remove.
  3. Replace filter.
  4. You’re done.

AFTER I went through the effort of disassembling the seat back and looking around I realized how easy this job is.

So the next thing I noticed. This is just a synthetic fiber mesh. There is no paper involved. So I just washed mine with dawn and let it air dry for a few minutes. This cleaned it 90% of the way, it was pretty gross to start with. Here is the after, sorry no before pics:

Front (fuzzy side):

Back (Rigid side):

When inserting make sure that you put the rigid side up. The fuzzy side should be facing the floor of the car.

Now the next thing I got to thinking, the price. The Nissan dealer quoted $96.XX+tax and no one seems to have heard of them or for that matter have them in stock. After seeing the part if I had paid their price I would have been EXTREMELY pissed. I found a local Infiniti dealer who had one in stock for the same price but there is a much better solution.

My dad’s 2011 F-250 King Ranch has air-conditioned seats on both sides. He has yet to replace the filter but he knows it can be done in less than a minute. So we took his filter out, and sure enough, IT IS EXACTLY THE SAME! My guess is there is a patent on this and every manufacturer leases that patent, which could explain why there are no aftermarket parts available from any of the local parts stores or even rock auto. But the local ford dealer only wants $42 for them…still, there is a better deal to be had. There is an online Parts Guy Ed who has them for $22.21 + S/H depending on the situation. There might be other places that have them for less, if you find them post them for others.

The bottom line is, don’t pay the inflated Nissan prices. It is exactly the same part, I know this is hard to believe but it is true. I put my dad’s part into my driver’s seat blower motor, and mine into his and there were no fitment issues whatsoever.