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Interior, Audio & Video Mods

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Member Credit: Marvin Ramos

This is the first official 5.5 Gen Maxima with a 2016 Nissan Maxima Steering Wheel. All of the buttons and steering wheel controls work just like it came from the factory.

More info and details to be posted once finished.

No automatic alt text available.

 

 

How it looks on 2016 Nissan Maxima

my4dsc: 110

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Member Credit: Mr DoLLa aka Raul

When you remove your OEM radio, there are 4 plugs that plug into the radio. Only 2 of the 4 connectors are used with your new aftermarket radio which are the 2 connectors with the larger size pins. The other 2 are not used but the VSS wire is the brown wire located on the larger of the 2 connectors not being used.

Definition: Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) via Crutchfield

In addition to the standard power and ground leads, remote-mount navigation (and even some in-dash units) systems connect to a vehicle’s Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) wire. Your vehicle’s cruise control uses the VSS wire to determine the vehicle’s speed — it serves the same function for the navigation system. (Don’t substitute the tachometer signal wire for the VSS wire — the tach signal wire sends pulses as long as the engine is running, even when the car is sitting still.) The VSS wire sends a series of pulses (from 800 to just over 1,000 per mile) only when the vehicle is in motion. If the VSS wire is not hooked up, the navigation system will not realize that the car is moving at all, and will be unable to track position.

my4dsc: 13

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Member Credit: shift_ice

I’ve always thought the 5th gen. Maxima emergency brake boot was chintzy looking, particularly the fact that the end of the plastic base is visible through the rubber boot. I purchased a black Italian leather shift boot with titanium stitching from redlinegoods.com. It was shipped quickly and came all the way from Poland within just a few days.

Tools:

  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Belt wrench (in case shifter knob is too tight)

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Remove ashtray insert to expose the screw behind it. Remove screw.

2. Open armrest and remove screw on the back wall of the storage console.

3. Remove one screw from each side of the armrest unit on the lower corner.

4. Pull up on the trim around the shifter on the side closer to the cupholders. This will release clips.

5. Remove the shift knob by twisting counter clockwise. It will be very tight and may require a belt style wrench.

6. Remove the trim piece by pulling up on both sides of the shifter and pulling down underneath the climate controls

7. Remove the two screws circled in red:

8. Disconnect the three clips on the back of the trim piece. Use a flathead screwdriver to release the clips.

9. Two clips remain securing the armrest console. They are visible inside the console. Release one clip from each side.

10. The console can now be lifted up and over the top of the emergency brake. If you have heated seats the wiring will still hold the console down a bit. Remove these plugs as well if you choose, but it’s not necessary.

The console removed and sitting off to the side:

11. If you choose, you can remove the rubber shift boot and install the leather shift boot in its place. To do so, remove the rubber boot attached to the console by pulling down from underneath on the passenger’s side and pulling up from above on the driver’s side. The leather boot  should  come with the holes necessary to attach to the points where the rubber boot was. I emphasize should because mine didn’t. This wasn’t a problem for me because I chose to leave the rubber boot in place and just install the boot over the e-brake. I prefer this look since there is no extra bunching material this way.

The rubber boot partially removed:

12. If you chose to install the leather boot in place of the rubber boot, reinstall the rubber boot  underneath   the leather boot. They can share the same mount points and the rubber boot will secure the leather boot and be out of sight under the leather boot. If you choose to leave the rubber boot in tact (as I did), just slide the leather boot over the emergency brake and pull it down as far as possible.

13. Reinstall console in reverse order. The results:

my4dsc: 10

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Member Credit: shift_ice

Installation procedure:

1) Remove the kick panel underneath the steering wheel. There are 2 screws at the bottom of the trim and snaps at the top. Get the screws removed and pull towards the rear of the car to release the snaps.

2) Disconnect the dimmer (and heated steering switch) wires and remove the panel from the work area.

3) Underneath the steering column is a metal support brace that is held on by two nuts. Remove both of them with a socket wrench and remove the plate. The bolts are stationary.

4) About the same location as that bar, but further towards the sky are two more nuts that hold the steering column in place. The bolts are stationary, so you just remove the nuts. This will “drop” the steering column down about 6 inches (which is enough clearance to remove the trim).

5) Using a small screwdriver, remove the 2 bolts at the top of the instrument cluster trim.

6) Using your hands (or a small flat screwdriver wrapped in a cloth), pry apart the top of the cluster trim from the dashboard and pull towards the rear of the car. The bottom of the cluster trim snaps out.

7) Lay the trim off to the side (you do not have to disconnect everything, just move it out of the way)

8) Remove the 3 screws that are holding in the white tabs of the instrument cluster. Pull the cluster out.

9) Disconnect the electrical connectors to the cluster and remove the cluster completely.

10) There are snaps around the clear plastic cover on the cluster. Gently pry the up to remove the plastic cover.

11) Press gauge rings into place. They come with adhesive.

12) Clean the plastic cover front and back double checking for fingerprints and lint and reinstall.

13) Repeat steps 1-9 backwards to reinstall.

NOTE:  DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES PUT THE KEY IN THE IGNITION (OR TURN THE CAR ON) WITH THE CLUSTER DISCONNECTED.

Using the steps above the installation is pretty simple. And the results? Very clean. Understated. Classy. It really makes the cluster look much more 3-demensional. The pictures simply don’t do them justice, particularly at night. The light from the gauges makes the rings shimmer. Well worth $35!

Before:

After:

Comparison with/without rings side by side:

my4dsc: 7

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Member Credit: shift_ice

I noticed quite a bit of wind noise from my sunroof when I first purchased the car. The wind noise seemed to be caused by the roof sitting a little too low. I spoke with the dealer and found the sunroof is easily adjustable via shims. After installing the shims I purchased for .65 cents a piece from Nissan, the wind noise is gone!

 

The part I purchased:

The actual shim part:

Remove the screw circled in red and pull down and toward the center of the car to remove the trim piece

The shims are circled in red.

Loosen the bolt below the shims and add/remove shims (whichever is necessary to make your sunroof sit flush:

Add/remove shims to the front and back as necessary until the wind noise is silenced.

my4dsc: 23

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Member Credit: shift_ice & Chris.s

For those who want to try tackling this on their own, below is a write-up by Maxima.org member Chris.s. Be forewarned that a few screws that need to be removed aren’t outlined (namely, the front mounting plate) and you need a good toolkit to do this right. A few tips:

  • The job requires a wide variety of small screwdrivers – I have a huge assortment and still didn’t have all I needed. Many different screw sizes, all smaller than the drivers many typically have.
  • A good soldering iron and some basic skills in soldering
  • Needle nose pliers
  • Good organization – when completely disassembled you have a pile of around 50 screws, 4 springs, 4 liquid filled shock absorbers, and your Radio/HVAC will be in about 10 separate pieces. I suggest sitting screws in separate piles to keep track of which step they’re associated with. If you lump them all together in one cup it’ll be a mess figuring out what screw to use.
  • Be very careful removing the vents – if you use the pry method you can mar your dash/vents if you’re not careful. Use a good towel, or if you’re strong enough, I recommend just grabbing the vents at the top (with your thumbs hooked inside the top vent) and pulling up and toward you until the clips brake loose.
  • Slot out a good 4 hours to complete the work. This assumes a moderate pace with no big hang ups along the way (stripped screws for instance).
  • If your screwdriver doesn’t quite fit, don’t try to make it work. You’ll end up stripping the screw, drilling it out, and hunting at Home Depot for some decent replacement. Do yourself a favor and spend the money on a wide array of screwdrivers/bits.
  • Carefully reassemble in the exact reverse order. Don’t wing it or you’ll end up having to backtrack when you realize you have an extra part or two.

Write-up

Tools required:

  • Large flat head screwdriver with a thick terry or 100% cotton cloth
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Soldering iron with solder and wick (used to remove solder)
  • Set of needle nose pliers.

1. IMPORTANT!! Remove ANY TAPES AND ALL CDS from the changer!!!

2. Disconnect battery negative terminal

3. Remove the vent sash using the flat screwdriver with the cloth over top (if done carefully you should not damage your dash so don’t worry)

4. Pop out the shifter trim, put shifter in 4th (manual) or L(auto) to make removal easier.

5. Once you remove the 4 screws from the HU bracket pull the unit outwards and prop it up on either the shifter or dash so you can remove the harnesses.

Stereo and climate control units removed from vehicle

Remove these screws. (you may need to use a ratchet)

Remove…

Use a flat screwdriver for these clips to remove the face.

Use a flat screwdriver for these clips to remove the face.

Remove these. The top right one is a really small screw.

Remove these. Don’t remove the one circled in white

Use a screw driver to pop the plate off.

Once inside, remove the tape deck by removing the 4 circled screws and pulling up on the tape unit.

With tape deck removed….

Remove the screws holding the 2 side plates on. Remove these plates by sliding them upwards. (opposite side not shown)

With pliers, twist this so it is inline with the slot on the PCB

Remove this ribbon cable by pulling it out. You should now be able to pull the “Radio/tape” portion of the unit up and completely clear of the CD changer.

Begin removing the screws from the CD changer cover….

CD Changer with cover off…
Note: The 2 plastic posts on either side of the laser “May” fall out during handling. Simply put them back before reassembly.

Remove these black screws to expose the daughter board.

1. Remove the 2 black screws from the board.
2. Desolder the 2 posts circled in yellow. Remove as much solder as possible using solder wick.
3. Unlatch the brown ribbon connector by CAREFULLY sliding the 2 leavers on either end away from the connector. This ribbon cable should slide out of the connector with close to 0 resistance.
3. Bend the posts which were desoldered so that you can lift this PCB out.

***This ribbon connector is one of 2 responsible for the audio cut out.***

Put this aside.

Remove the 2 screws and the steel plate covering the rubber mounts. (do this on both sides)

Remove these 4 springs carefully with a set of small needle nose pliers.

Remove the 4 rubber mounts from each corner. Be careful not to puncture these as they are liquid filled. Remove the CD Changer from the chassis…

Remove this ribbon cable from the bottom of the CD changer

HERE IS THE PROBLEM!!!!
These types of semi-rigid cables are notorious for wearing and not making a complete connection in the connector type used. The contacts bend over time with the pressure from the contact pins. Since the ribbon is no longer in its original flat shape, a poor contact is made and therefore NO ******* AUDIO

My “solution” is simple. Reseat the ribbon cable back into the connector but do not insert it fully. This way the pins are going to press on a “fresh” part of the ribbon.

Sadly I do not believe this is a permanent solution. However It has worked for myself and another. I would expect this to last at least as long as the original connection did.

A permanent and proper solution would be to solder brand new wires from one PCB to the other. This isn’t exactly easy. If I do experience another failure before I choose to replace the HU for something else then I will try it.

Here are pictures of how much to leave the connector out. They are not the best pictures but should be good enough. Do this for both sides of the ribbon cable.

Reassemble in the reverse order. (don’t you hate that…)

When putting the rubber liquid filled mounts back in, make sure that each of the posts from the CD player assembly is completely inside the rubber hole.

my4dsc: 7

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Member Credit: shift_ice

Many 5thgen owners complain about rear window wind noise. A TSB exists for ’00 and ’01 Maximas, but all 5th generations can exhibit this issue. If you’re outside your warranty or just prefer to do it yourself, it’s an inexpensive and simple fix.

 The wind noise comes from the rear corner of the rear windows. I purchased 3M foam tape from a local auto parts store (Advance Auto Parts) for around 8 bucks. The strip is 1/2″ x 3/4″ and is adhesive on one side:

Home Depot also sells the weather strip, but in a slightly different dimension. Just try to get foam weather stripping in a similar size to the foam picture above and it should do the trick.

Instructions:

  1. Roll window all the way down. The seal that needs removed is traced in red.

  2. Remove the seal above as far as possible. It’s easiest to start the removal just below the corner.

  3. Install foam in the channel where the seal was installed:

  4. While the TSB doesn’t mention it, I also added foam into the channel in the seal for good measure:

  5. Reinstall seal
  6. Enjoy a quieter interior!

This can be performed on the front windows as well to further quiet your interior if you prefer.

my4dsc: 15

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Member Credit: shift_ice

After using the search function on Maxima.org at length to get a feel for all the ways people have fixed their Bose deck rattle, I decided to completely remove the rear seats, C-pillars, and rear deck from the car and put my ears to work. The rattle problem is NOT the carpeted rear deck rattling on the metal shelf. I found the rattles were there 100% with the deck removed from the car. The source? Two spots: General resonance from the metal around the sub and significant rattles from 2 of my 3 seatbelt units. I removed the seatbelts from the car completely and found this to be true. I reinstalled them and found that if jammed my finger in between the seatbelt kit and the plastic molding around them the rattle disappeared. Obviously removing the seatbelts isn’t an option for a permanent fix, so I ran out to Circuit City and bought a door kit of Tsunami Silencer (12 sq. ft.). This is a generic sound deadener that’s supposed to be comparable to Dynamat Extreme. Came to around 60 bucks.

I added the sound deadener inside the plastic seatbelt cases and wedged small squares on the side of the cases to tighten the units. I also removed the metal sheet the sub mounts to and added Silencer to it as well. Before reinstalling everything, it was time to crank it up. The results? The rattles were gone! However, the sub sounded really weak. Then it hit me, no shocker, the seats are out. The Bose sub is designed to operate as a “free air” baffle setup, so without the seats installed the sub can’t perform properly. I threw everything back together, and WOW. What a difference. No more muddy bass! The sub sounds significantly clearer and stronger and is much tighter than before. Now it’s still no “boomer” (I miss my 2 Orion 10’s…), but this was an impressive improvement. I’ve gotta think this is what Bose had in mind. I know many have claimed installing foam mattress pads on their rear deck has fixed their rattle. However, I think this is just “masking” the rattle since the foam covers up the sound of the rattling seat belts and metal around the sub. In my opinion, using Dynamat in the manner below is worth the extra $$ because it not only removes the rattles, this fix actually produces cleaner and stronger bass. I spent $60, but I had quite a bit left over. I used it to do my plate and still have enough left to do my front speakers later.

Steps to remove the rear deck in order: 
1. Remove bottom seat cushion (pull two white tabs under seat)
2. Fold back seat down and remove the 2 bolts on the back of each seat at the bottom
3. Remove black plastic trim around trunk pass through
4. Remove 2 side seat pieces by removing bolt at bottom and lifting up
5. Unbolt seat belts
6. Unhook plastic snaps below rear deck that hold the deck cover on
7. Remove rear deck by lifting up and pulling

Rear deck completely stripped:

To remove the plastic Philips head pop tabs, unscrew the head with a screwdriver, but try not to push it in. It will work itself out far enough that you can pull it out with your fingers:

Sub mounting tray before Silencer was applied:

Sub mounting tray with Silencer. As you can see, I highly recommend getting your girlfriend’s assistance. Be sure to use gloves. The material has very sharp edges:

Rear deck with Silencer sans sub tray:

Here is the seatbelt unit with small pieces of sound deadener to make the fit tightly into the plastic housing to eliminate the seatbelt rattle. I applied around 3-4 pieces on each side until it was very difficult to slide into the plastic housing:

I also added Silencer inside the plastic seatbelt housing itself:

The seatbelt unit installed in the plastic housing with sound deadener:

The completed rear deck. I didn’t add deader all the way back to assure the deck could still slide into the blue plastic clips:

my4dsc: 7

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Member Credit: EddyMaxx (Additional photos/info by chrisaust and CleanMaxx)

Are you looking to get rid of that orange cluster on your 2004-2006 Nissan Maxima? Well you can install an 07-08 cluster very easily as everything is plug-n-play. All you need to do is purchase a cluster with miles closest to your car and cluster cover/hood. The 07-08 cluster will also work on 04-06 6-Speed 6thgens (even if you are HR swapped lol). 

Below is a photo of the 04-06 OEM cluster  (all orange….yikes). The only members I’ve seen that like the orange are the ones with the peanut butter elite orange Interior (only because it matches the  theme of the car). You can also add custom LEDs to your existing 04-06 cluster but most members just want a newer and refreshed look.

The first step is to buy a speedometer/cluster from eBay or local junkyard (or Facebook Classifieds). Try to get one as closest to your current mileage. You can also pay for an odometer adjustment but just easier to get a closer one to your actual mileage.

The pricing for the cluster is anywhere between $60 and $120 depending on where you get it from. Make sure to also buy the cluster cover/hood as well. Some people forget about this. The cover is usually around $40-50 bucks.

The whole swap takes about 45 minutes to an hour. 

You will also need the following tools:

  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Flat-head screwdriver (or preferably something thin and plastic)
  • Socket wrench only if you need to disconnect battery to work on electrical system (not really required)
  • Something to cut plastic (for creating hole to route cluster plug/harness)

Photo of the Purchased Cluster/Speedometer (Miles were very close)

Photos of Cluster Cover/Hood

Steps to remove the old cluster and add new cluster

Underneath the steering wheel there are 3 screw holes… Remove these screws with Phillips screwdriver.
Click the image to open in full size.Adjust the steering wheel all the way out and down. Inserting flat-head screwdriver in between two plastic pieces on the right side of the steering wheel where the windshield wiper knob is. Carefully pop apart plastic housing surrounding steering wheel and set aside.
Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Remove plastic covering over gauges. Using flat-head screwdriver or thin plastic, slide under top middle plastic piece and slowly lift up to pop out. Then slide under each piece on left and right, pop out front part first, then lift and pull towards you.
Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.On top of gauge cluster is one single screw, remove this:
Click the image to open in full size.Under gauge cluster are two hidden screws, unscrew both but don’t remove, it’s easier to pull out gauge cluster and screws will come out with it, then you can take them out.
Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.

Mount new cluster on the dashboard.

You will notice that the speedometer plug is on the opposite now. Since the plug is short, you will need to cut a hole and route the plug over to the left side. You can also stretch the harness if you don’t want to cut a hole. Just very careful.

Cutting the hole out will make it easier for you to route the plug into the new cluster. Simple and EASY!

Follow the reverse steps of removing the cluster and add back all the screws. Put the cover/hood back. Start the car and you are all SET! Enjoy your new cluster. 

Below is an example of the final product. The clusters below have modded LEDs which you can also add.

my4dsc: 56

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