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Community Member Credit: Jerry Herrera

Notes:

  • Overall, pretty much a direct fit. See reference photo on the bracket that needs to be drilled out a little.
  • They look really good in the car and give that bucket seat type feel while driving.
  • You do lose your heated seats and electronic adjustments. But I prefer performance over comfort.

Community Member Credit: 9BlackMaxMS

I figured I would take everyone through a step-by-step process of how to do it. It is really an easy job and anyone can do it.

Parts Needed:

(1) Nissan 350Z Footrest Assembly: Part # – 67840-CD00C ($23.68)

(2) Nissan AE Maxima Clutch/Brake Pedal Cover: Part # – 46531-AB000 ($19.14 ea.)

(1) Nissan AE Maxima Gas Lever Assembly: Part # – 18005-4Y900 ($27.76)

(1) 8×1-3/4 Flat Philip Head Zinc Finish Screws ($1.03)

I got the OEM parts from Dave Burnette at Southpoint Nissan at cost, and after shipping my grand total of parts came to $99.50 with the screws added in.

Tools Needed:

  • Bench Vise
  • Metal Hack Saw
  • Bench Grinder
  • Power Drill
  • 1/8″ Drill Bit
  • 10mm Socket
  • Ratchet
  • Small Philips Head Screwdriver
  • Long Flathead Screwdriver
  • Stubby Flathead Screwdriver

Step One: Preparing The Dead Pedal

The 350Z does not come from the factory with an elevated spot for a dead pedal, therefore there is a lot of unnecessary plastic that needs to be cut away.

First, remove the five (5) screws (four silver metal ones at each corner, and one black one in the center). Put the aluminum cover in a safe spot as it is very bendable.

Once separated, clamp the black plastic base to the bench vise and start sawing away. Leave about 1/2-3/4″ of clearance between the top and the side of the pedal. Next, use the bench grinder or a sander/sandpaper to finish the edge of the pedal and to even out the base. It should look like this when finished:

Step Two: Positioning/Mounting The Dead Pedal

Now that your dead pedal is correctly cut and finished to your liking, use the small Philips head screwdriver and screw in the small black screw to secure the aluminum plate to the base.

Go outside into your car and place the pedal where you would permanently like to place it. Rest it in place and begin drilling. You can drill directly through the carpeting. After drilling the four holes, take one 8×1-3/4 screw and fill in the four holes you just drilled. Voila, your dead pedal is installed and secured safely.

Before:

After:

Step Three: Clutch/Brake Pedals

First off, if you have an automatic, you complete this task with only one pedal (clearly) but can use the same method as I did.

Begin by peeling back the old clutch and brake pedals. They should come off with little effort. I found it best to reinstall the new pedal cover in a specific order, making each corner/side easier to slip on. Using the stubby flathead screwdriver, slide the top right corner and right side on. Next, use the flathead to flip the backing away while you set the top left part of the cover in place. Continue this process until you get the entire cover on.

I found it best to install the cover in the following order:

Continue on and do the same for the brake pedal.

Step Four: Accelerator Pedal

Begin by removing the throttle cable from the very top of the pedal assembly. It is kind of tricky, but if you wedge your long flathead screwdriver between the plastic clip and the metal on the pedal arm, it will pop free. The cable is located where these two red arrows are pointing to:

Next, unbolt the two 10mm nuts holding the pedal bracket in place (located on the firewall). Once these are taken off, the whole gas pedal assembly (pedal and arm) will fall out.

Continue the re-installation of the new pedal in reverse order of taking out the old one (first bolt in the two 10mm nuts that hold the pedal to the mounting bracket, then clip in the throttle cable).

You are finished. Put back your floormat and enjoy.

Before:

After:

Additional Photos (2002 Maxima)

 

Community Member Credit: EddyMaxx

I was looking to replace the steering wheel on my 1998 4thgen Nissan Maxima. I looked at various options and came across an 8thgen steering wheel that fits perfectly and literally plug-n-play (for the fitment and airbag wiring). It feels and looks much better than the regular 4thgen steering wheel. It’s also a flat-bottom steering wheel.

Overall, I’m very happy with the results. It took me about 45-minutes to get everything set up and installed. The cruise control wiring is optional but does require additional wiring if you want to retain the ones on the 8thgen steering wheel. You also need to ensure you get the steering wheel with regular cruise control, not intelligent cruise control.

Installation Details:

  • This setup uses the existing 4thgen Maxima clock spring. The 8thgen steering fits perfectly with no issues. All you need to do is route the clockspring wires through the center of the wheel.
  • I recommend going with the 2016-2018 Maxima steering wheel and airbag combination. 2016-2018 have one airbag plug and the late 2018-2021 have two plugs. You need a single airbag plug for the  4thgen.
  • You cannot use a 2019-2021 airbag on a 2016-2018 steering wheel or vice versa. They have different mounting points. See reference photo in this post.
  • To retain cruise control, you need to get a steering wheel without intelligent cruise control. If you don’t care about cruise control (or will re-route your existing controls to a different location), then you are good.
  • The airbag wiring is very easy. I used a spare 6thgen Maxima air plug to make mines plug and play. Check my video in this post to see more info on it. The 4thgen airbag connector has two wires, making it super easy to make a plug-and-play harness. I tested this out and can confirm you don’t get any flashing airbag lights.
  • For the horn, you use your existing ground wire from the 4thgen steering wheel.
  • If you want to retain the heated feature, you will need to route the two extra wires. You can wire it up to a separate switch or an OEM timer-based switch.
  • The 4thgen did not come with steering wheel audio controls. You can make it work with an aftermarket device but will make the project more complex.

Working Features

  • 100% Working Airbag (No Blinking Airbag Light)
  • 100% Working Horn
  • 100% Working Heated Wheel Function (If wired)

Total Cost: $280.00

  • Airbag: $180.00
  • Steering Wheel: $100.00

Regular Cruise Control vs Intelligent Cruise Control

2016-2018 vs 2019-2021 Steering Wheel Comparison

Installation Photos

Airbag Information

Community Member Credit: Nelson Andino

Notes:

  • So for the Nissan Altima 08-12 the 8thgen steering wheels are plug and play no wiring or anything. But the 8thgen steering needs to have the grey clips.
  • 2016-2017 steering wheels have one plug so you need to bypass the airbags to make it work.
  • 2018-2020 steering wheels with the 2 plug airbag everything plug and play just need to make sure have the grey clip. Some 8thgen steering wheels come with white clips. You would have to use your factory grey clips or repin them.

This is the plug you need to use. 

2016-2017 Airbag Setup

2018-2021 Airbag Setup

Upgrade to Carbon Fiber

Videos

 

Community Member Credit: Froggmann

It’s very simple to wire but you will need the plug if you want to use the factory button. Sunshade, not so much but it’s good to have a disconnect.

Wiring is real simple:

  • Black: Ground you can tap into the one under the bolster on the driver’s side of the car.
  • White: 12v Power. Since you are running wires anyways make a 3 wire harness and tap it into the power on the back of the armrest.
  • Red: Up signal
  • Green: Down Signal

Basically, the sunshade is always hot, and supply’s power to the red and green wires. Once one of the grounds is triggered, the shade will go into operation in the direction it was grounded (Red gets grounded, the shade goes up. Green gets grounded, the shade goes down)

A simple way to make a harness:

Grab about 15 feet of wire equal lengths, 14-16 gauge in three different colors preferably red, green, and white. Tie them to a stationary object and stretch them out. tighten your drill chuck on one end and then start twisting. GO until it starts curling over on itself.

As for the factory button, if you can’t find a plug for it then temporarily install a momentary “on-off – momentary on” switch and just poke it out under the center console. 2nd gen I30s are getting a little more common so you should be able to find the plug sooner than later.

Install Photos

FSM Wiring Diagrams