Interior, Audio & Video Mods


Member Credit: EddyMaxx

Installed R35 GTR vents today. They are fully functional and provide some additional airflow through the engine bay. You can find these on eBay between $85 to $180. Some are better made than others. Some are just carbon fiber overlay while others are full carbon fiber.

Took us about 2-3 hours. We measured very carefully. I used a harbor freight cutting wheel.The vents clear the HR Motor Manifold and my strut bar. I love the way everything came out. Should also get some better cooling now. Need to align the passenger side a little more but will do that once I’m ready to silicone them in.

Now my6thgen and 7thgen have R35 GTR ventsWill be doing my 4thgen next.

my4dsc: 24

Member Credit: DennisMik

This mod provides power all the time, with doors open or closed. I have this irritating habit of forgetting to close the rear windows and I didn’t like having to put the key in the ignition and turn it on in order to operate the power windows. So I decided to undo years of governmental nanny state-ism and have the windows work the way I want them to, not the way some bureaucrat wants them to.

Turns out this is an easy mod to do. You don’t have to take anything apart if you don’t want to. I did in order to get better photos. In stock form, Nissan uses a relay to supply the power to the window motors. This relay is energized when the ignition switch is in the “ON” position. So all you need to do is to remove the relay and add a jumper in the relay socket.

The Power Window Relay is located on the right side of the in-dash fuse panel. Remove the access cover to the fuses and you will see the blue Power Window relay on the right side. Look on the lower corner of the relay and you see the locking tab that you must push in on in order to remove the relay.

With the lower dash panel removed (you don’t need to do this), you can see that there is all kinds of room. FYI- the black thing to the right of the relay is the turn signal/hazard flasher unit.

Power Window relay removed.

You need to make a jumper wire. You want to use at least 14 gauge wire because this wire will carry a higher amount of amperage that most other wires in the car. 12 gauge wire is what Nissan has in the wire harness and if you intend to operate all the windows simultaneously, then you better use 12 gauge wire for this jumper. And if you do use 12 gauge wire, make sure the spade connectors can accept that size wire. I cut a piece of wire to be 1 1/4 inch long. I stripped 3/16 of an inch of insulation off of each end and soldered a 1/4 inch wide male spade lug connector onto each end.

Bend the jumper into a U shape and plug into the lower half of the relay socket.

my4dsc: 140

Member Credits: Voltage Drop (NISformance) for the original installation diagram. Juan Gonzalez for the Plug Photos.

All you need to do is re-pin the wires. No need to extend them.

Re-pinning Instructions

Backside of completed M34 Wiring

Backside of completed M32 Wiring

Additional Photo’s



my4dsc: 334

Member Credit: Shift_Ice


  • Dremel with a cutting tool
  • Oven
  • Small flathead screwdriver
  • Torx bit (on some models) – otherwise metric socket (size unknown)
  • Old towels
  • Channel locks
  • Purchase clear lens from Home Depot or frosted lens from Tap Plastics (contact info below):
    Tap Plastics Inc
    4538 Auburn Bl
    Sacramento, CA 95814

Clear Leans from Tap Plastics
1. Remove headlight from the vehicle. Take care not to scratch the fender with the metal mounting pin.

2. Remove bulbs and ballast from headlight. The ballast has a yellow and orange sticker in the picture below. It is attached with 3 screws.

To remove the HID bulb, rotate the plastic cover counterclockwise. Then squeeze the 2 metal pins toward each other. Take care not to touch the bulb!

3. Bake headlight in the oven on cookie sheet for 15-20 minutes at 200 – 250 degrees. The scary part:

4. Remove headlight from the oven with old towels (will be very hot)

5. Remove amber lens carefully. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pop lens out of tabs. Silver tabs are visible below.

6. Use the amber lens to trace onto the clear lens

7. Cut out the clear lens with Dremel. Lens from Tap Plastics comes pre-cut and drops right into place.

8. Install clear lens taking care to ensure that it fits snug under the tabs. If the lens is a little loose, apply 90-second epoxy lightly around the edge to assure a tight fit

9. Reassemble headlight as best you can and return headlight to oven

10. Bake for 15-20 minutes at 200 – 250 degrees

11. Remove from oven with old towels (will be very hot)

12. Use channel locks to assure a tight seal

13. Reinstall headlight

14. To produce a clear effect and retain amber blinking, I suggest using a chrome blinker bulb:

I purchased mine from autolumination. Alternatively, you can create your own by spraying the stock bulb with a light misting of silver paint.

15. Enjoy. The finished product:

my4dsc: 104

Member Credit: Shift_Ice / EddyMaxx

You can find these online using the part number. There are other manufacturers as well. I find this to be a simpler option in getting rid of the orange lens on the headlights. Gives the headlights a much cleaner look.

Part Number: ML11P2
Part Description: Intermatic Malibu ML11P2 Floodlights
Price: $20-$30 (Set of Two)

How-to Article: https://www.my4dsc.com/how-to-clear-the-orange-blinker-lens-on-5thgen-maxima-headlights/



my4dsc: 177

Member Credit: NC5thGen

Added 6th gen 2004-2006 dual power/heated front seats in my 5th gen. Process was pretty simple by swapping the rails/tracks from the 5th gen seat to the 6th gen seat cushions. No frame modifications needed just swap over and use the harness plugs. Seat airbag connections were the same.

my4dsc: 281

Member Credit: EddyMaxx

I wanted my cluster to match the rest of the LEDs in my 1998 Maxima. I liked the blue color so I ordered those. The install was pretty straight-forward and the final outcome is awesome. I’m going to sand down the orange on the needle for a clear look.

Special thanks to Brad Conner for the assist! You can find his install instructions here.

Part Number: NEO5-BHP (This is only for 1998-1999 Digital Clusters. For 1995-1997, you need T10/194 bulbs bulbs)

Order Link: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/instrument-cluster-gauge/neox-led-bulb-high-power-instrument-panel-led/221/998/

The LEDs

Before Pics

Back Side of Cluster

These are the 5 bulbs to change to the NEO5-BHP bulbs.

Note: These LED bulbs are polarized. If a specific bulb does not light up, you will have to adjust it. It took me a few tries but I finally got them all working. Make sure they are secured as you adjust them so that they don’t fall out if you hit a speed bump. Also, it’s recommended to fully test the cluster with new bulbs installed before putting everything back in.

New LED Bulbs Installed

Final Result. Next step is to sand down the red on needles for a better look.

my4dsc: 115

Member Credit: Equinox

This is for a 370z but is applicable to 6thgen Maximas as well.


Okay, some of you may have put racing seats in your car, and noticed that now you have a flashing airbag light (a stick figure seat belted in, with an airbag in his face) blinking on your dash, or some of you may want racing seats, but do not want to do it because of the flashing light. Well, below is how you get rid of the light without ripping it out the dash.

First, the reason why you get the light. Your stock 370z seats have SRS airbags inside the shoulder of the seat. When you wreck, these deploy and basically are like a pillow between you and the door for side impact collisions. If you choose to remove your stock seats, you will have to disconnect a plastic electrical connector under EACH seat. This is the SRS connector. NOTICE: Under the Passenger seat are two connectors, one is the passenger airbag weight sensor pad, the other, the SRS system. I will tackle the weight sensor further down this how to.

Note, airbag module shown just for reference, as I took it completely out the seat just to see what I was dealing with. You do not need to remove the whole airbag assembly.

Second, Supplies you will need for the SRS airbag light removal ‘trick’ depending on your style.

(2) 4.7ohm, 1/2 watt resistor [that’s one resistor per seat]
(1) Wire Stripper
(1) Soldering Iron*
(1) Solder*
(1) Heatshrink*

(1) Helping Hands, or ‘Third Hand’ electrical holder

*Can be used in lieu of Solder
(4) Electrical Butt COnnectors
(1) Roll of Electrical Tape
(1) Wire Crimper

Some may want to use electrical butt connectors or crimp tools, this is fine, I prefer soldering my connections and heatshrinking them. It’s all up to you,

Now, assuming you still have your stock seat somewhere around – look under the stock seat, and cut off your electrical connector with yellow tape wrapped around it, leaving several inches of wire on the connector for you to strip off. Do this for both seats.

Then, Un wrap your yellow tape from the connector, and strip the ends of the wire.

Put your connector into your Third Hand to hold it for you, and wrap one end of your resistor around the exposed wire. Solder this connection together, using your solder gun, heat the connection from below, and press your solder down on the connection from the top. The hot wire will melt the solder and draw it down between the strands of copper, you don’t have to heat the solder directly. Ensure you get a shiny finish on the solder, if it looks dull, you have air in the solder connection and need to remelt the metal to get a good connection.

Now, slide come heat shrink down over your soldered connection, and heatshrink that puppy on. Then, slide another peice of sleeve over your now smaller, melted heatshrink, so you can use it for the next connection. Bend the resistor around in a U shape so it can be wrapped around the other wire of the connector, and solder this end together, and neatly heatshrink the connection. You should look something like this.

Do the same for the other connector, and you’re done with electrical engineering. Just reconnect these suckers in your car under your racing seats. You will need to perform the AIRBAG RESET TRICK in order to remove the airbag light once this is done, and you should be good to go.

Now if you want to retain the usage of your stock passenger weight sensor with your racing seats, and still have a passenger airbag, that is covered below.

Inside the passenger stock seat, is a thing peice of material that you basically sit on everytime you get in the the side seat. It detects whether or not you are heavier than a certain number, and decides whether or not to arm the passenger airbag in the dash in front of you. I think the weight is something like IF > 80lbs, then arm airbag else disarm airbag.

Now I didn’t really take pictures on this section with the intentions of making a how-to when I stripped the upholstery, so I apologize for the lack of exact images you might want. I’ll try to just do it by memory.

What you will need for this project:

(1) Ratchet 3/8″ drive
(1) 12mm socket
(1) 6″ long extension
(15+) Small cable ties
(1) Needle Nose pliers or Needle Nose Vice Grips
(Pair) Wuevos*


BELOW: Here is the bottom of the passenger seat, but note this is a picture after I was already done, so there isn’t any SRS or Weight Sensor connectors hanging out the bottom of this seat, so don’t get disconcerted when your seat has these in the beginning. You will need to remove the lower pad of the seat to get to the weight sensor. This is accomplished by removing four 12mm bolts.

BELOW: Bottom of passenger seat. Remove the four bolts on the bottom of the seat holding the lower pad in. Just these four bolts actually hold the lower pad in. These bolts have a little number ‘7’ on them, and are 12mm.

BELOW: Bottom of passenger seat, this time a picture of the bolt closer to the front of the seat. Remove the bolt that is flat into the lower pad, not the one sitting at an angle on the bracket to the side. The bolt is 12mm.

Now that the seat pad is loose from the seat, we will work just on the pad. Starting on the underside of the seat pad, take your needle nose pliers and disconnect the seat pad sensor wire from the plastic clips holding it down. THen, with your pliers again, find the small metal rings that hold the black fabric to the seat foam/frame. Grab each ring and twist it until unwravels, disconnecting the black fabric from the seatpad. The small rings are actually wrapped around a strong metal rod going through the foam seat, so you aren’t ripping these rings out, you’re just bending them open using your twisting torque and the rod as a wedge. Discard the metal rings, we will replace these with small cable ties. Peel away the fabric as you realease it from the rings, removing all the rings you can find. Once you uncover the whole pad, you will see the weight sensor is fastened to the seat pad in the same way.

BELOW: The Passenger Airbag weight sensor. Twist off the metal rings holding the sensor to the seat pad, being careful not to rip the seat pad weight sensor too much. Once you have the weight sensor loose, put it off to the side so we can re-assemble the seat pad.

Now to re-assemble/re-upholster the stock lower seat pad, you will take your small cable ties, and run them down and under the metal rods that the rings were attached too, and using the same hole on the fabric that the ring was through, pull the fabric tight to the foam just as it was. If you need to poke a new hole in the excess fabric on the underside, to run cable ties through, feel free, this won’t hurt anything. Make sure you trim the cable ties down to size, and twist them so the trimmed point of the cable tie is pointed down into the fabric. Just as a precaution. This is a very simple shaped seat, and is very easy to wrap. Re-bolt your seat bottom back on the seat frame, and your seat should look good as stock once more, now just with not connectors sticking out the bottom (assuming you already cut the SRS airbag connector off, and did the first airbag fix listed).

Now, take your passenger weight sensor, and stick it in your racing seat, under the center pad, and fish the electrical tail through the back of the seat. Make sure to connect the weight sensor to the harness below your racing seat in the car. If you do not have a removable center pad in your racing seat, and can’t put the sensor under it, you can just just place the weight sensor below your racing seat, and flip it upside down with the white facing up. When upside down, the weight sensor seems to ALWAYS arm, atleast mine did. This way your passenger airbag will just always be on. CAUTION: Ensure if you do this, you DO NOT install a forward facing child seat in the passenger seat. In an accident, the airbag may KILL THE CHILD. (not that I imagine anyone is going to try to mount a child seat into a racing seat, but hey, this IS America.)

Below is an image of the stock weight sensor in the Bride seat center, and connected up. NOTE: THE SENSOR IN THIS PICTURE IS UPSIDE DOWN TO SHOW CONTRAST. ENSURE YOU PUT THE BLACK SIDE UP IF YOU WANT IT TO WORK PROPERLY.

Below is a picture of the seat with the center Bride pad put back down over the passenger weight sensor.

my4dsc: 160

Member Credit: DeusExMaxima

I took the 1/2 watt 2 ohm resistor and bent it in such a way that it stuck through the orange connector like so:

YEAH!!! No airbags went off, no air bag light. Car ran great. Drove it around. I feel more connected with the car. The wheel has a much higher quality feel. I really love it.

my4dsc: 37

Member Credit: DeusExMaxima

When installing racing seats in a 6th generation Maxima, there are two issues to be dealt with in order to clear the airbag light. The first is the occupancy sensor which can be removed from the original passenger seat and plugged into the car and rolled up so that it is always sensing someone in the seat. The alternative is to install the sensor in the existing seat that you installed. I am going to look into this because I am considering removing the heating elements from my original Seats and installing them in my Recaro seats.

The second issue of course is that there are airbags that will be disconnected from each seat and a 1/2 Watt 4.7 ohm resistor across the terminals of the connectors will trick the computer into thinking that there is an airbag hooked up. That way all the other air bags will be armed and should deploy normally in the event of an accident. Of course if you install Maxima Seats from a different model car, then it may be possible to simply plug in the air bag from the seat if it has one.

my4dsc: 29