Interior, Audio & Video Mods


Member Credit: rguerra7

The main parts needed are:

1. Navigation Display Screen (28090 CA100)
2. Display Control Unit (28330 ZC00A)
3. Navigation Unit (25915 CB804)
4. GPS antenna (I bought an aftermarket one that works)
5. Plugs that fit the back of these units (Just searched for Nissan plugs on eBay and bought what seemed to fit).

The Display Control Unit and Navigation Unit came off a 2005 Infiniti QX56. I didn’t buy any special wiring harness, but be prepared to wire 50-70 wires. Most of these wires are interconnected with the control units mentioned above, and only about 20 wires need to be connected to the car.

The schematic for the integrated display system is on page 70 and for the navigation system on page 111.Choose your year, then it’s under the “av.pdf”.

This should work for the 2004-2005 Maxima.

When I started connecting the wires to the car.

my4dsc: 187

Member Credit: rguerra7

I just wanted to share my experience, I now have all 4 windows auto up/down and all 4 roll up/down with the remote on my 2005 Nissan Maxima.

I had to buy:

  1. The master switch with all auto switches.
  2. The rear auto switches.
  3. Rear window power motors. The new motor has 6 wires and the original has 2 wires. The new motor has a sensor that tells the window where it’s located, open vs closed and everywhere in between.
  4. Rear door harnesses specifically made for the 4 seater Maxima. The new rear power window motor and rear switches use a different electrical connector.

Note: I had to do some rewiring at the master switch to send the two needed connections to the rear windows.
I sent the Power Window Serial Link and the BAT from the master switch to the rear switches. The auto switches you can get used from a Maxima that had those, the auto rear ones are on eBay right now.

The left harness is 24127-ZA500 and the left window motor is 47-1396. The right components have similar part numbers.

Here are some pics

my4dsc: 62

Member Credit: Marvin Ramos

This is the first official 5.5 Gen Maxima with a 2016 Nissan Maxima Steering Wheel. All of the buttons and steering wheel controls work just like it came from the factory.

More info and details to be posted once finished.



How it looks on 2016 Nissan Maxima

my4dsc: 335

Now available for 7thgens with Tech Package and/or Navigation.

  • 2009-2014 Maxima (with Technology Package)
  • 2009 Maxima (with NAV)

Part Number: 99-7633
Price: $389.99
Order Link: eBay Metra Kit

Additional Information: 


my4dsc: 214

Member Credit: Anthony Carter

Tools Needed:

  • Hard Plastic Blade to Remove Shifter Cover and Bent Box (Flathead may mess up your dash)
  • #2 Phillips
  • Small Phillips
  • Small Flathead to help disconnect electrical connectors in back of climate control unit
  • 8mm Socket w/ Extension.

Pop out the vent up top.

Pop out the shifter cover plastic.

Remove 4 8mm bolts and pull the radio/climate control out.

Disconnect the electrical connectors.

Remove 4 Phillips head screws (pita) that hold climate control in.

Remove 4 small Phillips head screws from back of climate control.

Pop off white cover as shown in photo.

Replace bulbs.




my4dsc: 83

Member Credit: Mr DoLLa aka Raul

When you remove your OEM radio, there are 4 plugs that plug into the radio. Only 2 of the 4 connectors are used with your new aftermarket radio which are the 2 connectors with the larger size pins. The other 2 are not used but the VSS wire is the brown wire located on the larger of the 2 connectors not being used.

Definition: Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) via Crutchfield

In addition to the standard power and ground leads, remote-mount navigation (and even some in-dash units) systems connect to a vehicle’s Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) wire. Your vehicle’s cruise control uses the VSS wire to determine the vehicle’s speed — it serves the same function for the navigation system. (Don’t substitute the tachometer signal wire for the VSS wire — the tach signal wire sends pulses as long as the engine is running, even when the car is sitting still.) The VSS wire sends a series of pulses (from 800 to just over 1,000 per mile) only when the vehicle is in motion. If the VSS wire is not hooked up, the navigation system will not realize that the car is moving at all, and will be unable to track position.

my4dsc: 366

Member Credit: shift_ice

Installation procedure:

1) Remove the kick panel underneath the steering wheel. There are 2 screws at the bottom of the trim and snaps at the top. Get the screws removed and pull towards the rear of the car to release the snaps.

2) Disconnect the dimmer (and heated steering switch) wires and remove the panel from the work area.

3) Underneath the steering column is a metal support brace that is held on by two nuts. Remove both of them with a socket wrench and remove the plate. The bolts are stationary.

4) About the same location as that bar, but further towards the sky are two more nuts that hold the steering column in place. The bolts are stationary, so you just remove the nuts. This will “drop” the steering column down about 6 inches (which is enough clearance to remove the trim).

5) Using a small screwdriver, remove the 2 bolts at the top of the instrument cluster trim.

6) Using your hands (or a small flat screwdriver wrapped in a cloth), pry apart the top of the cluster trim from the dashboard and pull towards the rear of the car. The bottom of the cluster trim snaps out.

7) Lay the trim off to the side (you do not have to disconnect everything, just move it out of the way)

8) Remove the 3 screws that are holding in the white tabs of the instrument cluster. Pull the cluster out.

9) Disconnect the electrical connectors to the cluster and remove the cluster completely.

10) There are snaps around the clear plastic cover on the cluster. Gently pry the up to remove the plastic cover.

11) Press gauge rings into place. They come with adhesive.

12) Clean the plastic cover front and back double checking for fingerprints and lint and reinstall.

13) Repeat steps 1-9 backwards to reinstall.


Using the steps above the installation is pretty simple. And the results? Very clean. Understated. Classy. It really makes the cluster look much more 3-demensional. The pictures simply don’t do them justice, particularly at night. The light from the gauges makes the rings shimmer. Well worth $35!



Comparison with/without rings side by side:

my4dsc: 22

Member Credit: shift_ice

I’ve always thought the 5th gen. Maxima emergency brake boot was chintzy looking, particularly the fact that the end of the plastic base is visible through the rubber boot. I purchased a black Italian leather shift boot with titanium stitching from redlinegoods.com. It was shipped quickly and came all the way from Poland within just a few days.


  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Belt wrench (in case shifter knob is too tight)


1. Remove ashtray insert to expose the screw behind it. Remove screw.

2. Open armrest and remove screw on the back wall of the storage console.

3. Remove one screw from each side of the armrest unit on the lower corner.

4. Pull up on the trim around the shifter on the side closer to the cupholders. This will release clips.

5. Remove the shift knob by twisting counter clockwise. It will be very tight and may require a belt style wrench.

6. Remove the trim piece by pulling up on both sides of the shifter and pulling down underneath the climate controls

7. Remove the two screws circled in red:

8. Disconnect the three clips on the back of the trim piece. Use a flathead screwdriver to release the clips.

9. Two clips remain securing the armrest console. They are visible inside the console. Release one clip from each side.

10. The console can now be lifted up and over the top of the emergency brake. If you have heated seats the wiring will still hold the console down a bit. Remove these plugs as well if you choose, but it’s not necessary.

The console removed and sitting off to the side:

11. If you choose, you can remove the rubber shift boot and install the leather shift boot in its place. To do so, remove the rubber boot attached to the console by pulling down from underneath on the passenger’s side and pulling up from above on the driver’s side. The leather boot  should  come with the holes necessary to attach to the points where the rubber boot was. I emphasize should because mine didn’t. This wasn’t a problem for me because I chose to leave the rubber boot in place and just install the boot over the e-brake. I prefer this look since there is no extra bunching material this way.

The rubber boot partially removed:

12. If you chose to install the leather boot in place of the rubber boot, reinstall the rubber boot  underneath   the leather boot. They can share the same mount points and the rubber boot will secure the leather boot and be out of sight under the leather boot. If you choose to leave the rubber boot in tact (as I did), just slide the leather boot over the emergency brake and pull it down as far as possible.

13. Reinstall console in reverse order. The results:

my4dsc: 33