Interior, Audio & Video Mods


Member Credit: TunerMax

I know some of you were interested in wiring your Map light(s) to illuminate when the Dome turned on, and some of you already have. Either way, I thought I’d let you know what I’ve figured out.

The best way I see to do it properly:

Tap into the ground wire (Dome light to SECU [Smart Entrance Control Unit]) Terminal #31 between the SECU and Dome light and install a relay there. I’d do this AT the SECU, most room to work. You want to hook this into the trigger side of the relay.

Here is the location of the SECU:

Then run a 2 Wire cord (preferrably one line with a tracer) from there, up to the Map light (up the Left A pillar and over).

The switch Wiring in the Map light seems to differ. I found 2 set ups.

1. On my car it’s a Single Map light, and it is wired with power to one side of the switch, then when you press the switch power flows through the light and to ground. (standard switch set-up)

2. It appears on some models, with 2 map lights, power is supplied to the light bulbs, and the switches are installed on the ground side (makes the ground connection).

Hooking up the wiring for the first one is easier, all you have to do is attatch (solder) one wire to the bulb side (see wiring diagram), and one wire to the live (+) side. Then down at your relay, connect the wire you connected to live (+) to the relay, and connect the wire you connected to the bulb side on the other end.

Here is my amazing Wiring diagram of the new set-up:

The second way, you have to change the switch type for the Map light.
+ must be triggered by the push switch (before the bulb). That change is pretty straight forward, nothing real complicated, if there are any of you that don’t understand how to do it, post a good picture of your Map lights (unit removed, picture of the back side wiring) and I’ll show you what to do.

So with this set up, we have No diodes, everything operates normally, no extra bulbs. Only thing that changes, is the Map light comes on when the dome light illuminates

I thought I’d let you all know how to do it, in case you were scratching your heads on it, I know some of you have done different things to get this function, some pretty creative, some a little chinsy, anyways…

I know initially you’d just think, jump a wire from the Dome light, and if you don’t have a sunroof, I’d consider it.

I have a sunroof though so this is the best way I can think of (to have it operate properly without installing extra lights and non-sense)

Pull out the Map Light, and unscrew the Sunglass holder. Also pop the cover off the Left A-Pillar. This pic shows all 3 removed, and my wire fish run through already:

Now run your wire fish from the corner of the headliner on the A-Pillar side into the sunglass holder hole. You can probably use a coat hanger or just push the wire through, it’s pretty easy going, everything is framed in the corner.

Hook your 2wire cord onto the wire fish, and feed it through toward the A-Pillar

Now you want to run the wire fish from the fuse panel area (by pedals) up to the A-Pillar base (top of dash). Hook up again and pull through. This pic is with the wire already run.

Now the easy part Locate your SECU, remove the harness connectors (3) and move the wiring so you can work with it easier. And Use my Guide in the OP to locate the proper terminal. It`s a process of elimination to find the harness you want, mine was the middle one, I would assume all years will be the same. I know the terminal designation is the same.

Here`s the wire we want.

Now cut it.

That`s right, only genuine Nissan Parts Any standard SPST relay will work.

I kind of cheated with this wiring cause I ran out of female spades and I wanted to get it done. So the Constant power wire (has red insulation on it in pic) needs to be doubled up (split wire, add 2 female spade connectors). You`ll see what I did in the second pic

Above is everything hooked up except the Ground (terminal wire you cut). I Forgot a pic of the Crimp on the Terminal wire. You just want to join them together into a Female spade connector, you can see it pretty clearly in the pic below (red wire). Please ignore the crudity of the wiring install, it’s temporary, I’ll be installing a SPDT Relay to run my LED handle lighting, at that point I’ll be re-doing the wiring and mounting the Relay

Now, wire in that MAP Light. Hook up the Constant Positive wire (with tracer) to the Constant Positive connection at the Switch

And then hook up the intermittent Positive wire (no tracer) to the output side of the switch (to bulb). I didn`t post a pic of this cause I couldn`t get a good enough picture of it. Plug in the SECU harnesses, the MAP light and DOME light should come on (if you hooked everything up correctly, and the door is open)

If everything works, install all components and make sure all wiring, etc is secure. And enjoy your new modifcation every time you open your door or unlock your car!

Lights off:

Unlock button pressed, lights illuminate:

Door opened:

Just so you know, you can`t shut off your MAP light while the door is open, I don`t know why you`d want to though. It still functions normally when the doors are closed. Another great thing about this mod is, you can shut off the Dome light and have only the MAP light illuminate if you want to (kids in the back sleeping, but you still need light when the door opens) Enjoy!

my4dsc: 17

Member Credit: perkman87

I have has multiple emails on the Navi install on my 2003 maxima via taking out the ashtray. The Navigation Model is the Magellan Maestro. It matches the TE edition perfect as you can see it is also silver and black just like most interiors in the SE family.

All I did was run the power from the rear socket spliced it in, then cut a small hole in the side of the ashtray holding container. Taking out the ashtray was simple you just unscrew the center screw in the middle of the ashtray, then pop the whole shifter cover off (holds ashtray) and there will be 4 screws that hold it in place, take those out and the ashtray box will come off with ease.

There are tabs on the side of the ashtray that will allow you to take the slider off with ease, then just go ahead and cut the side of the case with a warm knife, and slide the power connector through.

my4dsc: 20

Member Credit: Eddymaxx

I recently installed an Auto Meter 22813 triple gauge pod and Ortiz clock replacement pod on my 2002 5thgen Maxima. The Auto Meter pod goes over your existing pod and fits perfect. I’m happy with the overall setup.

Auto Meter Part Number: 22813 (Price Approx. $90 bucks or so). You can find it on eBay.

Ortiz Custom Pod Part Number: OCPN-65 (Price $109.00). You have to order it directly through their site below.
Order Link: http://ortizcustompods.com/nissan.html

Left Gauges: Water Temp, Oil Pressure, Fuel Pressure
Center Gauges: Oil Temp, Air/Fuel, Boost

my4dsc: 45

Owner: Metal Maxima

Year: 2001
Model: Maxima
Color: Black


Mod List:

Tokico Illuminas
H&R Drop
Otto Strutbar
Stillen Rear Swaybar
Bridgestone Serenity Tires

Dynaudio 360 tweeters and 8″ mids (3-way frontstage)
Morel domes in kickpanels (3-way frontstage)
Rainbow Audio SL165 in rear
Alpine DVA 9965 (DVD Player)
7″ Microvision LCD
PAC SWI-X (Integration of factory steering wheel control)
iPod connection
Stinger Expert speaker cable
System pre-wired for amp hook-up with 1/0 AWG Stinger Expert in trunk

Complete two-tone interior throughout
Custom leather seats
Fully customized interior (LEDs galore, custom switches)

Full Stillen lip kit
Full repaint in Black (spring 2009)
Street Scenes grille w/ original grille cut-out

my4dsc: 205

Member Credit: Metal Maxima

Alright, as my final HOW-TO on the .org, I am going to be detailing how one can black out your headlights and add the newly coveted Audi LED effect to your headlights. Without much adeiu, let’s begin!


  • Flexible LED strips from Oznium ($40)
  • Amazing Goop from Home Depot ($4)
  • About 5 hours…this is actually a pretty quick mod

Remove headlights. I am not going to detail this, there are two screws to remove that are exposed at the bumper level then just pull out…HARD.

You’re going to need to remove some hardware from the headlights before beginning. All rubber components, bulbs, and any screws that will come out. One universal item the bulbous thingie that was a beotch to remove in the previous step.

Obtain a flat baking sheet and a large towel. Wet the towel so it’s wet, but not dripping wet. Drape across the entire length of the sheet. TEST FIT THE SHEET WITH THE HEADLIGHT IN POSITION. Once you’re comfortable with the fit, preheat the oven to 250F. Place the headlight facing UP.

Bake for 10-12 minutes, ONE AT A TIME. Feel free to nervously pace the kitchen floor. *DING* That’s the sound of opportunity! Take your headlight out. I recommend using leather gloves, you’ll need the dexterity. Start by removing the two screws where the bulbous thing is…they are easier to remove once the adhesive is at working temp. Pry your headlight apart by using a flathead screwdriver to pry the mechanical attachment points open. Then pull…I only did 10 minutes and pulled…hard.

Remove the chrome components from the body. Here’s a shot of the only two screws for the 5th gen. The 5.5 gen will have more, sorry, I have limited pics of the 5.5gen. NOTE: Your lens portion will need to be warm for the 5th gen shroud to be removed; this allows proper expansion…believe me, it ain’t coming out otherwise.

You’re going to want to tape the chrome sections you want to retain. This is actually easier then it sounds. Use small pieces when going around the corners. TIP: Take the tape and slowly walk it across the contours…you will have 0 difficulties if you do so.

Paint using Duplicolor’s High Temp Engine Enamel. Do 3 coats; two light coats at about 12″ distance, very quickly. Do a third “wet” coat; you can do multiple light coats, but I’ve used close to 100 cans of spray, so I have an unfortunate familiarity with how it behaves. Allow 2 hours cure time, then peel away.

Cut your LED strip to size and attach it using the double-sided tape included. One the 5th gen, you’ll use 21 LEDs. The 5.5 gen is considerably more, just cut to size. NOTE: The array on the strip is in denominations of 3, so you must have a multiple of 3 in order for the full length to light!!! (i.e. 36, 33, 30, etc.)

Drill a small hole to allow for wire passage…I did mine as seen here on the 5th gen…I recommend going toward the turn signal as it is less readily seen below:

Now this is what I consider to be the hardest step. In order to properly reseal, we need to reuse the existing sealant. SO, back in the oven we go…ONLY PLACING THE LENS AND BODY IN THE OVEN. Do so at 250F for 10 minutes. You’re going to want to leave the body face up as the channels will likely contain the largest portion of sealant. Remove when the adhesive is glossy, meaning it’s at working temp.

STEP #10
While everything is hot, QUICKLY reassemble. Be confident, you can do it. You’ll need to do this for the proper seal. Push the body and lens together, making sure the mechanical tabs properly latch. Route the wire behind the lens shroud, you can drill your own hole or use the vent line aperture.

STEP #11
*WHEW*, ok, so you got the lenses probably 80% sealed. Time for some GOOP! Add some extra sealant, we’ve done all this work and don’t want to blow it now.

STEP #12
FIRE IT UP! Test with a 9V to enjoy the awesome effect. These things are BRIGHT!


my4dsc: 36

Member Credit: Theslaking

Grabbed a Nissan mirror with LCD from an 09+ Rogue. It was as simple as running wires in a vehicle I already had gutted. At first, I tapped into power upfront from the mirror but that caused too much of a delay with the camera turn on. So I just grabbed it in the back.

Power for the LCD still came from the original harness

Ran the wires to the back. You can see the cut camera power wires

Down into the trunk. Put some Ensolite around the wires to prevent rubbing.

Into the factory loom and through the trunk lid.

Drilled a hole in the plastic popped in a grommet

Finished look.

Screen showing old reliable!

my4dsc: 144

00-03 5thgen Nissan Maxima Gauge Pod Gallery

my4dsc: 76

Member Credit: EddyMaxx

Installed R35 GTR vents today. They are fully functional and provide some additional airflow through the engine bay. You can find these on eBay between $85 to $180. Some are better made than others. Some are just carbon fiber overlay while others are full carbon fiber.

Took us about 2-3 hours. We measured very carefully. I used a harbor freight cutting wheel.The vents clear the HR Motor Manifold and my strut bar. I love the way everything came out. Should also get some better cooling now. Need to align the passenger side a little more but will do that once I’m ready to silicone them in.

Now my6thgen and 7thgen have R35 GTR ventsWill be doing my 4thgen next.

my4dsc: 115

Member Credit: DennisMik

This mod provides power all the time, with doors open or closed. I have this irritating habit of forgetting to close the rear windows and I didn’t like having to put the key in the ignition and turn it on in order to operate the power windows. So I decided to undo years of governmental nanny state-ism and have the windows work the way I want them to, not the way some bureaucrat wants them to.

Turns out this is an easy mod to do. You don’t have to take anything apart if you don’t want to. I did in order to get better photos. In stock form, Nissan uses a relay to supply the power to the window motors. This relay is energized when the ignition switch is in the “ON” position. So all you need to do is to remove the relay and add a jumper in the relay socket.

The Power Window Relay is located on the right side of the in-dash fuse panel. Remove the access cover to the fuses and you will see the blue Power Window relay on the right side. Look on the lower corner of the relay and you see the locking tab that you must push in on in order to remove the relay.

With the lower dash panel removed (you don’t need to do this), you can see that there is all kinds of room. FYI- the black thing to the right of the relay is the turn signal/hazard flasher unit.

Power Window relay removed.

You need to make a jumper wire. You want to use at least 14 gauge wire because this wire will carry a higher amount of amperage that most other wires in the car. 12 gauge wire is what Nissan has in the wire harness and if you intend to operate all the windows simultaneously, then you better use 12 gauge wire for this jumper. And if you do use 12 gauge wire, make sure the spade connectors can accept that size wire. I cut a piece of wire to be 1 1/4 inch long. I stripped 3/16 of an inch of insulation off of each end and soldered a 1/4 inch wide male spade lug connector onto each end.

Bend the jumper into a U shape and plug into the lower half of the relay socket.

my4dsc: 230

Member Credits: Voltage Drop (NISformance) for the original installation diagram. Juan Gonzalez for the Plug Photos.

All you need to do is re-pin the wires. No need to extend them.

Re-pinning Instructions

Backside of completed M34 Wiring

Backside of completed M32 Wiring

Additional Photo’s



my4dsc: 598