Credit: black_maxed95

Parts that I replaced:

  • OEM Axle Seals: 38342-81X00 (driver side) 38342-81X01 (passenger side)
  • Throw-out Bearing
  • Clutch (I used a 5th gen setup)
  • Stillen Lightened Flywheel
  • Obviously a tranny. I used my old ’95 tranny with 108k. (My current car has 180k)
  • Amsoil synthetic GL-4 tranny fluid. Pricey but recommended.

Alright, step by step removal down to the tranny. First may I note that I think I did this with removing the least amount of stuff possible. I left the cross member on and y-pipe on. Removing these will obviously make removing the tranny easier but is optional. PS: if you remove the cross member you will need to support the engine.

Step One:
Start draining the fluid. Draining the tranny fluid takes a long time so start with this right away. I didn’t and I had to wait for while. This pic shows the bolt that is removed to do this.

Step Two:
Remove the driver side wheel.

Step Three:
Remove the caliper. My 300zx calipers were held on by 2 17mm bolts in the back. Use a wire or zip tie to hold them on the springs so they don’t hang by the brake line.

Step Four:
Remove the Rotors. Mine just slid right off.

Step Five:
Now remove the cotterpin and the washer behind it. Use a pliers.

Step Six:
Remove the 36mm axle nut. Impact gun is strongly recommended. There is also a washer behind it so keep track of that too.

Step Seven:
Disconnect the hub from the struts. It is a 19mm nut on a 17mm bolt.

Step Eight:
Now pull the hub off of the axle. I also used a hammer to help start push the axle out. I again used a ziptie to hang the hub from the strut so it would not pull the ABS line tight.

Now to attack from under the hood. Here is my engine compartment before doing anything. Mostly a mess, I know.

Step Nine:
Remove the intake. Disconnect the vac hoses, MAF and air temp plugs, and disconnect from the throttle body.

Step Ten:
Remove the battery and battery tray.

Step Eleven:
Remove the Starter. This involves disconnecting the big positive cable and the other connector. Then unbolt the 14mm and 17mm bolts.

Step Twelve:
Remove the slave cylinder. This was held on I think by two 14mm bolts. They are hard to get at so I had to use a wrench. Then also remove the ground wire that is bolted right next to where the slave cylinder is.

Step Thirteen:
Remove the tranny mount. First remove the long bolt that goes through it. Then the 4 bolts that hold it onto the tranny. Also notice the oil everywhere?…no wonder there is none in my tranny…it is instead all over everything else!

Step Fourteen:
In order to access a few tranny bolts, it is also necessary to remove the shifter linkages/rods from the tranny. It is ok to let them hang from where they connect to the shifter. Also 1 of these bolts is a pain to get at with out taking off the cross member but I did it with a wrench.
(sorry no pics of this)

Step Fourteen point five:
Also make sure the crank position sensor on the tranny is unplugged and the gear sensor is unplugged. I removed the crank position sensor completely.

Step Fifteen:
Now you should have everything off of the tranny. So now remove all the bolts holding the tranny onto the engine. There should be 8 since one was already taken off with the starter and one with the shifter rod. KEEP TRACK OF THE BOLTS! There are different sizes, what I did was I drew a picture of a circle and placed the bolts on the circle relative to each other on the tranny. 2 of the bolts on the bottom of the tranny I could not completely remove with the cross member still on, but I didn’t need to since they were completely unthreaded from the tranny. Once all the bolts are out its time to take off the tranny. What I did which isn’t recommended as the best, was place a jack under the tranny (but not pushing up on it) and then I used a screw driver to pry it from the engine. Then with the tranny sitting on the jack, I lowered it down. This isn’t recommended cause it is very hard to balance a tranny on the jack.

Step Fifteen point 5:
Remove the clutch. It is held on by I think 10 12mm bolts IIRC.

Step Sixteen:
Remove your flywheel. This is held on by 8 14mm bolts. I used an impact gun with a 14mm impact socket. These bolts are very tight and using a ratchet is difficult unless you can effectively stop the flywheel from rotating.

Step Seventeen:
Assemble lightened flywheel from stock ring gear, timing gear, and the stillen piece.

Step Eighteen:
Reassemble everything in reverse order, making sure to torque everything to spec and to replace the axle seals, and then refill with 4.8ish quarts of tranny fluid. DO NOT use an impact gun to install the flywheel and clutch onto the engine. These bolts are weak and can break…don’t ask me how I know.
Edit: Thanks to nismology for pointing this out, when refilling the tranny, do it with the car level on the ground and refill until oil comes out of the refill hole (It takes approximately 4.8 quarts)

Other notes…reinstalling the tranny was a major PITA since it’s so heavy. I recommend using a tranny jack. If you don’t have a tranny jack and if you aren’t super buff, you should remove the passenger side axle. It’s the same steps as the driver side with the addition of removing 3 bolts for the bracket that holds the axle to the engine.

Part# 914937

Order Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/303985317020

Application List:

  • 02-06 Nissan Sentra SER SpecV
  • 02-06 Nissan Maxima
  • 05-06 Nissan Altima SE-R
  • 02-05 Nissan Altima

There so many short throw shifters on the market, however, only Ralcorz has a shifter available that stands out amongst all others. These shifters are made from the highest quality aluminum and hardened steel. Every Ralcorz Short Shift kit is precision-made for each application. A premium sport shifter engineered for the enthusiast. This Sport Shifter has all of the features you need.

Key Features:

  • Accepts stock knob
  • Direct bolt on installation
  • Up to 40% throw reduced for quicker shifts


Community Member Credit: Turbobink

Matic-D may not be a technical requirement but it is certainly and unquestionably the safest choice … if one cares what the FSM says, that is.

In having owned my 1999 since MAR of that year and in having personally completed the vast majority of services and repairs since the expiration of the manufacturer’s warranty, I feel comfortable in letting those interested know what I’ve found works. Nonetheless, if others hold differing perspectives, based on their notable experience and long-term trials and errors, with regard to a specific topic (this case being the 4th generation Nissan Maxima) those individuals should feel free to espouse those perspectives in an effort to contribute to assisting those who’ve asked for assistance.

Group Deal Info:

  • Contact @ Gerson Flores (Reputable and Trusted Seller)
  • Production will start once 20 group deal spots are filled. Full kit is $700.00 each for 20 kits. $750.00 for 15 kits.
  • The deposit is $350.00 if 20 kits are locked-in or  $375.00 for 15 kits.
  • It takes a 4-8 weeks for the brackets to be made which is the most important part. Once it’s completed you can pay the remaining balance to receive the remaining kit.

What’s Included:

  • Custom CNC Bracket
  • Metal Slaves
  • Modified OEM T-Fitting to 4AN Line (Factory Master and Bleeder will bolt right up like normal)
  • 2x 4AN Stainless Steel Lines (Heat Resistant)
  • Adapter Fittings

Install Info:

  • The kit is plug and play.
  • Only thing you need to do is shave 3 tabs on the transmission for the new upgrade slave to sit flush.
  • The bracket is made to where the slave is replaceable. You can also order the slave through Gerson.
  • The kit works for 2007-2012 Altima 2.5 / 2.5. Also works with 7thgen Maxima 6-Speed Swaps



Thanks to Kirill, we just ordered a set of “Street” Selector Springs for our 2002 6-Speed Supercharged 5thgen Maxima. Will post a review afterward. The owner Peter will get back to you quickly. This is only for the manual FWD RS6 6-Speed  and RS5 5-Speed Transmissions. Also, if you are having issues with reverse just make sure the spring cup on the larger spring is not upside down.

Overview & Purpose from Vision1Racing

From the factory, Nissan utilizes two springs within the transmission to “center” the shifter in the 3/4 gate. These OEM springs are very weak and often cause 3rd gear lockout issues when attempting to quickly shift. This is simply due to the driver overpowering the spring’s ability to line up the shift mechanism in the 3rd gear fork. VisionOneRacing offers two kits to fit the driver’s needs.

Our Street Kit is 200% stiffer than the factory and provides a nice, crisp feel. This is truly how it should have come from the factory. Our Race Kit utilizes a higher grade spring steel and is over 300% stiffer than the factory. This will provide the necessary “kick” to the shifter when slamming them gears down the track.

Both kits have received excellent feedback and have propelled the V1R Sentra into the 9’s, being the first QR to do so. They have also helped send the all-motor Maxima into the 10’s with many other success stories along the way!

It’s also worth noting that I highly recommend aftermarket shifter bushings when using our Race Kit. These can be had from 2J Racing among others.

Price Options: Street Kit $45.00 / Race Kit $60.00

Order Link: https://www.visiononeracing.com/product-page/shift-selector-springs-race

Installation Instructions: V1R Shift Selector Springs – Nissan 5/6spd F51

Installation Video:

Scanned Installation Instructions:

Overview & Purpose from Vision1Racing

Brand new to the market is our HD Detent Kit for the Nissan RS6F51 transmission! Add confidence and enjoyment to your driving experience with these affordable and easy to install springs. Over 70% stiffer than OEM, the V1R HD Detent Kit provides the driver with the positive feedback desired with every gear change.

We have custom tailored each spring to not only increase the performance of your transmission, but also to combat the sloppy reverse feel that is far too common. This kit is suitable for any vehicle – from the daily driver to weekend warrior. Be sure to couple these with Vision One Racing Shift Selector Springs for the ultimate transmission experience!

Price: $39.99

Order Link: https://www.visiononeracing.com/product-page/hd-detent-kit

Overview & Purpose from Vision1Racing

The Diamond Claw® Crank Lock utilizes precisely sized CBN particles with a hardness of 10,000 Vickers that effectively LOCK your flywheel and harmonic damper in place. With a thickness of only .008″ – Driveline alignment remains unaffected.

Previously only available for the most common platforms – including the Nissan GTR, Vision One Racing remains focused on bringing these solutions to the entire Nissan family. Protect your most expensive and crucial components with this small yet powerful addition! At an affordable cost, the Diamond Claw will be reusable for virtually the entire life of your engine.

When modifying engines and pushing them beyond their designed capabilities, harmonic vibrations are your worst enemy. Long strokes, balance shaft removal, increased RPM, single mass flywheels, turbocharged applications, and even higher compression all are capable of contributing to increased harmonics. These micro-vibrations often times cause surface welding (also known as “fretting”) on the crankshaft, flywheel and other expensive components.

The V1R Diamond Lock® helps to prevent flywheel bolts from backing out with increased RPM and power output. In the event that the flywheel does become loose and begin to vibrate against the crank, the Diamond Claw® can help protect the crankshaft and prevent further damage.

We’ve seen firsthand the detrimental effects that fretting can pose – sometimes even destroying a crankshaft beyond use. While mitigation techniques have been around for ages, nothing has proven to fully prevent this anomaly… UNTIL NOW!

Price: $129.99 (Flywheel/Damper)

Order Link: https://www.visiononeracing.com/product-page/diamond-claw-crank-lock

Installation Instructions: V1R Diamond Claw® Crank Lock

Nabco is a Nissan OEM part manufacturer. Most dealers have this rebranded as Nissan but it’s the same original part number. We purchased these for our 6-Speed Maxima and match exactly the OEM part within the car. This will save you a bunch of $$$$$$$$$$$. For all clutch master, clutch slave, and 1-piece SS line, it comes out to less than $130 shipped. 

If you replaced your clutch fluid and it still looks like the photo below then you most likely need to get a new Master Cylinder. Might as well replace both while you are it.

These parts work for the following manual transmission vehicles:

  • 2002-2003 5thgen Nissan Maxima
  • 2004-2006  6thgen Nissan Maxima
  • 2002-2006 Nissan Altima
  • 2002-2006 Nissan Sentra

Master Clutch Cylinder

  • Nissan OEM Part #: 30610-3Y010
  • Nabco Part #: 555 38027 330
  • Nissan Branded Price: Approx. $90.00
  • Nabco Branded Price: Approx. $43.00

Slave Clutch Cylinder

  • Nissan OEM Part #: 30620-AU400
  • Nabco Part #: 556 38001 330
  • Nissan Branded Price: Approx. $80.00-90.00
  • Nabco Branded Price: Approx. $26.00

1-Piece Stainless Steel Clutch Line (Highly Recommended)

This is a complete kit from the slave cylinder to the master cylinder. This line will replace your factory metal & rubber lines with a stainless braided line. All clutch lines are single lines made of stainless steel braided hose with a protective PVC covering.

Bolts, washers & fittings are included if required (Shown in picture). All you do is remove the factory OEM line and replace it with our clutch line kit.

eBay Price Comparison – Nabco ($75.71 Shipped)

autohauzAZ Price Comparison – Nabco ($87.07 Shipped)

Price Comparison – Nissan Rebranded ($219.77 Shipped)



Community Member Credit: 1trucavalier


  1. 3/8 Socket Wrench with at least 12″ Extension
  2. 10 mm Socket, 12 mm Socket, 14mm Socket, 15/16, Swivel extension
  3. Clutch Master Cylinder
  4. Pliers
  5. PB/slick 50 etc…
  6. 10mm Wrench for Hydraulic Line Screw


1. Disconnect clutch fill cup two 10mm screws (no need take of bracket just cup).

2. Locate clutch master cylinder on the inside of the brake master cylinder.
DONT PANIC when you see how far it is in there.

3. Look under your dash and locate the clutch pedal and follow it all the way to the top until you see a small goldish retaining clip and gold pin holding the clutch master cylinder shaft to the pedal. REMOVE THE CLIP AND PIN

4. Follow the master cyl shaft to the firewall you will see 2 – 12 mm screws. Using your wrench/extension/12mm/swivel socket remove both screws.

5. Get a 14mm socket and remove the windshield wipers.

6. Just under your windshield wipers is a black plastic cowl pull it up in the center and all the plastic fasteners will pop up.

7. Remove the windshield wiper motor and assembly 3 – 10mm screws disconnect pigtail.

8. Just under that is a fake me out strut tower brace just under your windshield wiper cowl. locate the 6-7 10mm screws and remove them. FakeSTB!

9. You should now clearly see the clutch master cylinder using a 10mm wrench remove the hydraulic line connected to the top of it.

10. Remove the master cylinder and clutch fill together makes it easier to remove the clip holding the fill cup hose to the master cylinder. should look like this removed

11. Install the new one connecting the retaining clip and pin the the clutch pedal first then tighten up the screws

You are basically done now. I suggest bleeding the clutch before you put everything back just to make sure the master cylinder works correctly.

Clutch Bleeding 101

1. Fill the clutch cup to the top. (you do not need to put the top back on the pressure that the dealer claims need to be there is BS! The way it works is once you depress the clutch the valve closes so no air will ever get in it. I posted this 2 years ago because I listened to the STEALERSHIP and I was totally wrong also so I apologize for the misinformation back them.

2. Get a 15/16 socket (tiny) go to your clutch slave cylinder and unscrew the bleeder valve.

3. Go back to the inside of the car and pump the clutch with your hand 3 times. pour brake fluid in the clutch cup then go back and pump it another 3 times. I suggest doing it a total of three times just to make sure all air is out of the line.

4. On the last or third try when you push the clutch to the floor LEAVE IT TO THE FLOOR and go and close the bleeder valve. go back and pump the clutch after 3 pumps it should be extremely tight. That’s it your done.

Now just put everything back together.

HELPFUL HINT: If ever you come into a situation when your master cylinder fails while driving or at an intersection or tractor trailer coming at you and it won’t let you shift. Turn the car off and you can put the car into first without the clutch turn it back on and take the hell off 🙂


Community Member Credit: Cars & Fishing

Changing the clutch to an Exedy Stage 2 Clutch and a JWT lightweight flywheel as doing some other maintenance on the car like power steering lines. Everyone says you have to drop the subframe or take the engine out the top but I will show you otherwise!