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Overview & Purpose from Vision1Racing

Brand new to the market is our HD Detent Kit for the Nissan RS6F51 transmission! Add confidence and enjoyment to your driving experience with these affordable and easy to install springs. Over 70% stiffer than OEM, the V1R HD Detent Kit provides the driver with the positive feedback desired with every gear change.

We have custom tailored each spring to not only increase the performance of your transmission, but also to combat the sloppy reverse feel that is far too common. This kit is suitable for any vehicle – from the daily driver to weekend warrior. Be sure to couple these with Vision One Racing Shift Selector Springs for the ultimate transmission experience!

Price: $39.99 (Shipped)

Order Link: https://www.visiononeracing.com/product-page/hd-detent-kit

Contact: https://www.facebook.com/Vision1Racing-109956330825963

HD Detent Kit

Thanks to Kirill, we just ordered a set of “Street” Selector Springs for our 2002 6-Speed Supercharged 5thgen Maxima. Will post a review afterward. The owner Peter will get back to you quickly. This is only for the manual FWD RS6 6-Speed  and RS5 5-Speed Transmissions. Also, if you are having issues with reverse just make sure the spring cup on the larger spring is not upside down.

Overview & Purpose from Vision1Racing

From the factory, Nissan utilizes two springs within the transmission to “center” the shifter in the 3/4 gate. These OEM springs are very weak and often cause 3rd gear lockout issues when attempting to quickly shift. This is simply due to the driver overpowering the spring’s ability to line up the shift mechanism in the 3rd gear fork. VisionOneRacing offers two kits to fit the driver’s needs.

Our Street Kit is 200% stiffer than the factory and provides a nice, crisp feel. This is truly how it should have come from the factory. Our Race Kit utilizes a higher grade spring steel and is over 300% stiffer than the factory. This will provide the necessary “kick” to the shifter when slamming them gears down the track.

Both kits have received excellent feedback and have propelled the V1R Sentra into the 9’s, being the first QR to do so. They have also helped send the all-motor Maxima into the 10’s with many other success stories along the way!

It’s also worth noting that I highly recommend aftermarket shifter bushings when using our Race Kit. These can be had from 2J Racing among others.

Price Options: Street Kit $45.00 Shipped / Race Kit $60.00 Shipped

Order Link: https://www.visiononeracing.com/product-page/shift-selector-springs-race

Contact: https://www.facebook.com/Vision1Racing-109956330825963

Installation Video:

Scanned Installation Instructions:

Community Member Credit: Darby Bryan Mccullers

This fixed the infamous gear slamming issue after upgrading to the upgrade Level 10 valve body.

Reference Info:

The Nissan Maxima-Quest has become well known as a fine automobile. Unfortunately, the transmission continues to be a problem.

Even when overhauled, the same factory parts are installed resulting in the same problems. LEVEL 10 has developed a series of valve body components and modifications that will correct the hard shifts, gear slams, erratic shift points, and transmission failures. The best part of our modifications is there is no need for a complete transmission overhaul saving thousands of dollars.

Nabco is a Nissan OEM part manufacturer. Most dealers have this rebranded as Nissan but it’s the same original part number. We purchased these for our 6-Speed Maxima and match exactly the OEM part within the car. The website links noted below are legit as we’ve ordered from them. We also recommended getting the 1-piece stainless clutch line. This will save you a bunch of $$$$$$$$$$$. For all clutch master, clutch slave, and 1-piece SS line, it comes out to less than $130 shipped. 

If you replaced your clutch fluid and it still looks like the photo below then you most likely need to get a new Master Cylinder. Might as well replace both while you are it.

These parts work for the following manual transmission vehicles:

  • 2002-2003 5thgen Nissan Maxima
  • 2004-2006  6thgen Nissan Maxima
  • 2002-2006 Nissan Altima
  • 2002-2006 Nissan Sentra

Master Clutch Cylinder

Slave Clutch Cylinder

1-Piece Stainless Steel Clutch Line (Highly Recommended)

This is a complete kit from the slave cylinder to the master cylinder. This line will replace your factory metal & rubber lines with a stainless braided line. All clutch lines are single lines made of stainless steel braided hose with a protective PVC covering.

Bolts, washers & fittings are included if required (Shown in picture). All you do is remove the factory OEM line and replace it with our clutch line kit.

Price Comparison – Nabco ($87.07 Shipped)

Price Comparison – Nissan Rebranded ($219.77 Shipped)

 

 

Community Member Credit: i30ds

I took my time and saved a bunch of cash for a host goodies. Best ball park guess (includes shipping) $3500…
This included a lot of new stuff:

Just about the only thing that were used are the shift and control rods, the clutch and brake pedals, and a couple of the hard clutch lines. With the rods and pedals, I took them to my grinder and removed all the rust and them repainted them with rust proof stuff.

Parts List:

  • Lsd Manual Tranny- 320B0-40U77
  • Clutch Slave Cylinder- Cant Find Invoice
  • Clutch Master Cylinder- Cant Find Invoice
  • Manual Tranny Motor Mount- 11220-40U12
  • 5th Gen Clutch Disk- 30100-2Y904
  • 5th Gen Clutch Cover- 30210-89F00
  • Manual Flywheel Bolts- 12315-77A00
  • Clutch Cover Bolts- 30223-07S00
  • Shift Support Rod Bolt- 08121-0252F
  • Clutch Cover Bolt Washers- 30240-07S00
  • Slave Cylinder Bolts- 08121-02528
  • Manual Motor Mount Bolts- 01125-03291
  • Breather Tube for Manual Tranny- Cant Find Invoice
  • Shift Rod Support Bushing- 34560-70N00
  • Transaxle Hole Cover Plate Bolt- 74965-0E510
  • Return Spring- 34573-40U00
  • Manual Shifter Trim (Wood W/ Black Boot)-96935-40U10
  • Ae Shift Knob- 32865-4Y910
  • Ae Pedal Covers (Clutch and Brake Are the Same)- 46431-AB000

First, I removed the seat (only 4 bolts and a couple of connectors), the steering wheel trim, lower dash panel and the metal bracket behind it, the trim around the gauge cluster and pulled the cluster out (but left it connected), and the 4 nuts that support the steering wheel up. I used a jsck stand to support the wheel so that way it would not be just hanging there bottoming out and possibly causing some damge.

Now with all this stuff out of the way I now had enough room to remove the auto brake pedal/bracket. In order to do this I also had to remove the left steering wheel support bracket which is held in place by 3 nuts, and 2 of them require access through the cluster area which is why I removed it. With that out of the way, the brake pedal was only 4 nuts and a couple of connectors (but the 4 nuts can be a b!tch to get at).

I now had enough room to drill through the fire wall for the clutch master cylinder. I bought a right angle adapter for $35 from home depot (drilling in this tight of an area would have been IMPOSSIBLE with out it and I dont know how the other guys could have done it).

I also bought a STEP bit for $10 from home depot (I dont know why the hal write up called it a ‘tree’ bit). If you are thinking about just using a 3/8 bit (the size of the two holes for the studs that come from the clutch pedal bracket through the fire wall), forget it!! I tried to do this but the bit is too long, even with the right angle adapter. You need the step bit which gets progressively bigger as you go down the bit.

For the hole for the mater cylinder I used a 1-1/2 hole saw bit (once again, I dont know why the hal called a cylinder bit). This is the exact size for the master cylinder.

With all this, I drilled my holes (sorry I for got to take pics), and mounted the cluch pedal and the master cylinder. I know the master looks off center, but the holes lined up perfectly from the inside and the pedal bracket mounted up to the other factory bolt holes (that were previously unused) perfectly as well. This makes me think that the insulation in the engine bay is what is off (for some reason or another). It is moot point regardless.

Finally, I put the brake pedal in a long with the left steering wheel support bracket (I dont know why the hal threw his away, with out it your steering wheel is only half way supported), and put everything back together. The clutch pedal is NOT attached to the master cylinder in these pics (I have a new one on order), and this is why the clutch pedal sticks out more than it should.

Fidanza flywheel, 5th gen clutch, clutch master cylinder, clutch slave cylinder, ss clutch line from the GD, Raxles axles, AE clutch/brake/gas pedals, B&M short throw shifter, AE shift knob, shift support rod mount, manual tranny mount, plate bolt with transaxle hole cover, shift console trim piece with boot, a lot of misc. bolts and nuts, and of course a brand new LSD 5spd tranny.

Here is all the auto junk I ripped outta there. This includes all the little bullsh!t cables and brackets. I even removed the key interlock cable completely instead of just taping it into position like Hal did in his write up.

This was the only connector I ended up having to cut. It is the connector that went to the auto shift lever. I couldnt get it undone because the prvious owner had spilt soda down in there and it solidified the connector into one sh!t mess. I had to cut it.

While I was in there, I decided to replace the rear main… As you can see I had the slightest seep.

I rvt’d the hell outta the thing so it should not be a problem for a really long time…

Here is the signal plate on the auto drive plate. As you can see, the signal plate is not even shaped right to work with a manual flywheel. Not to mention it is riveted on. This delayed my project as I had to buy a used flywheel, so I could get the signal plate off of it for my Fidanza.

Here is the Fidanza with the signal plate on it.

Gotta love how there is already a factory hole… Only if Nissan would have done this for the firewall.

Here are the shift rods… Sorry this was the best pic I could get, because there is not a lot of room under the car.

Here is the car with everything ripped out.

Here are pics of the pedal install. I did this back in May while I collected more parts. I just continued to drive around auto with manual pedals.

Here is the tranny adaptor for my 3 ton jack. This thing is great. It gives plenty of room to rest the tranny on and it has slots so you can strap it down. It also can pivot and turn so you can mount the tranny with ease… Best $40 Ive spent.

Here is the Fidanza flywheel mounted.

Here is the 5th gen clutch.

Here are the Raxles axles. These things are top notch… The best looking axles I have ever seen. There even filled with amsoil grease.

Here is the B&M STS topped of with an AE shift knob. The look is proper… The way the shifter should have come from the fatory, instead of the ugly @ss flagpole.

Here is a shot of the ss clutch line.

WOW… Look at all the extra room now that the auto is gone.

Ahh… Finally back together again!

Community Member Credit: Benzolorenzo1

About 6 months ago I received the death code P1778 (stepper motor) in my 2008 Altima. I searched far and wide, low and high, only to be told 2 things… you need a new transmission, or you need a new valve body. Since I didn’t have $2500 for a new trans, let alone $800 for the valve body I decided to look into this a little further. watched a YouTube video the only one I could find was a Nissan armada, but thought what the hell. I drained the fluid, dropped the pan, yanked out the valve body, and found that little bastard that gave me such trouble.

Now with part in hand I went to my local parts store, and told we don’t sell that part, its not even in our system… went to the dealership, told the same thing and was told I needed to buy a new transmission as they are not “serviceable” funny but I had the part in hand, how can it be not serviceable?

Lastly I took a gamble, I went to eBay, ordered a stepper motor. 20k miles later, still no code, no whine, and no lock up.

Part Number: 203452A
Description: JF011E RE0F10E F1CJA Transmission CVT Stepper Motor For SENTRAN Nissan Dodge Refurbished
Price: $30-$40

Here is how I saved thousands and bought a $35 part.

  1. Drain fluid.
  2. Drop pan (clean with brake cleaner)
  3. Remove the 3 bolts holding filter. (clean with brake cleaner while your at it)
  4. Remove the valve body about 11 bolts
  5. Remove the stepper motor from the top of the valve body (the side you can’t see with the pan off) 2 bolts
  6. Replace with the new stepper motor found here https://www.ebay.com/itm/282288900117 or https://www.ebay.com/itm/183910578995
  7. Take a piece of dental floss about a foot long and hold the spring loaded arm back against the stepper motor and return the valve body back to the transmission.
  8. After you have a few bolts in place remove the floss before you tighten all the way.
  9. Reconnect trans filter and bolt back into place.
  10. Rejoin the fluid pan to the transmission and replace with quality CVT fluid. Amsoil makes a great product.

I hope this helps and if you have questions please feel free to ask.

Video How-to (Many thanks to Budget Drift for this)

Community Member Credit: Eddy

This is just for reference and comparison. The RIPP Supercharged Kit usually comes with the V-5 G Supercharger. Most upgrade to the V-2 Si Supercharger Trim. You will need to ensure the impeller is also in the right rotation for your setup.

Impeller Rotation Reference

  • Clock-Wise CW (RIPP Supercharger Kit)
  • Counter Clock-Wise CCW (Stillen Supercharger Kit)

SuperchargerMax SpeedMax BoostMax FlowMax PowerInlet ODOutlet OD
V-5 F52000 RPM14 PSI750 CFM550 HP3.5″2.5″
V-5 G52000 RPM15 PSI750 CFM550 HP3.5″2.5″
V-2 S50000 RPM20 PSI1000 CFM680 HP3.5″2.75″
V-2 SC53000 RPM20 PSI1000 CFM680 HP3.5″2.75″
V-2 Sci53000 RPM17 PSI1050 CFM725 HP3.5″2.75″
V-2 Si52000 RPM22 PSI1150 CFM775 HP3.5″2.75″

Vortech 5-G

Vortech Supercharger V-5G - $1500

Vortech Supercharger V-5G - $1500

Vortech Supercharger V-5G - $1500

 

Vortech V-2

Community Member Credit: JIME

Ok guys after spending a lot of time and money last year I ended up using an automatic shifter dubbed shift-fast for my automatic transmission.. It is just some relays connected to a RPM switch (Emanage\UTEC\MSD). It works fine, it allows me to shift at any RPM I desire automatically which is great for the track. However it doesn’t control the converter lockup and I have to use the exact same shift RPM for each gear. The trans takes longer to shift from 2-3 than from 1-2 so the RPM is higher for the 2-3 shift, not exactly what I want. I was trying to come up with another way while watching the snow fall and although using 2 window switches would solve part of the problem its just more wiring and relays. Grey99 has also spent a lot of time working on the automatic shift-fast and has his own version working quite well.

I decided to do some searching to see if anyone else had come up with an easier solution. After a few hours of searching I ran across a device made for the automatic Supra that does it all. Suprastick V4. Individual shift points for each gear, torque converter control for each gear, 2 maps (one for race one for normal), manual shift mode using paddles or switches, shift light, automatic protection from downshifting. It is a complete standalone TCU programmable via a PC. I have been in contact with the President and Chief Design Engineer Garrett Rowe who assures me he can easily change the code so it will work with the Maxima shift pattern.

The Suprastick manual can be downloaded here: SSv4.6 – Manual

I checked the G20 FSM and your trans in the same number of solenoids and same shift pattern as the Maxima/Altima so this will work.

Ok here goes. Does the SupraStick work? Yes, exactly as advertised. It comes packaged like this.

There are a number of programing screens to set it up but this is the most important one. There are 2 maps for auto shifting one for track and one for street or whatever. Just insert the speed you want it to shift at with the applicable throttle opening and bingo it does it. I have 2 switches one to select map 1 or 2 and another to select manual or auto shifting. I use the cruise control buttons for the manual up down shifts and it works great. One of the options is to set an RPM limit for downshifts, whatever you set this RPM for the trans will not downshift if it is exceeded to save your trans.

Does it work at the track? I waited until today to post this. There were around 24 cars in the field and I managed to win it all. Not too bad for an old guy that was paralyzed from the neck down 8 months ago. Youth and skill can be overcome by old age and treachery every time.

This is a pic of the display which is available for approx $35 to show mode, gear, throttle opening, speed and rpm.

Community Member Credit: JIME

This mod forces the transmission to shift at FULL Line Pressure at all times the switch is on. A WOT (Wide Open Throttle) switch is best suited for this purpose because the part throttle shifts are extremely harsh and could damage the transmission.

The drop resistor mod disconnects the dropping resistor in the transmission control circuit. This forces the transmission to run a maximum line pressure. This makes the shifts VERY hard. Even an otherwise stock car will chirp the tires on the 1-2 shift with this mod.

The downside is that part-throttle shifts are very jerky. The solution is to wire a Wide Open Throttle (WOT) switch that disconnects the resistor only at full throttle.

Reference Info:

The line pressure is varied according to throttle opening, RPM etc so that the more power you put down the more pressure is produced so that theoretically the shift time remains the same.

The more HP you put out the slower the trans will shift if you don’t increase the line pressure, so they have designed it to be suitable for 95% of the driving public.

What I am trying to do is have maximum line pressure at WOT ONLY, I like the way it shifts under normal operation, thats why I don’t have a VB mod. Maximum line pressure gives the fastest shift possible and saves the clutches from burning unecessarily. However I don’t want maximum line pressure at part throttle as the shifts are very jerky because the engine is only putting out very little HP.

The stock design does not put out maximum line pressure at WOT and the Drop Resistor Mod does.”

Installation Pics

Ok here is where the drop resistor is located. Front side of the drivers side strut tower.

There is a connector with two wires attached to the resistor. The electrical drawing of the drop resistor looks like this. You must cut one of the wires, doesn’t matter which one but cut it at least 2 or 3 inches from the connector so you have room to strip and connect to it.

Strip a small section on either end of the wire you just cut and attach a wire to each end by soldering or use a connector. Run the two wires to a switch. Either a WOT micro switch (preferably) as per the picture or a manual switch.

I have a small L bracket I made that attaches it to the intake manifold bolt closest to the throttle body.

Keep adjusting the switch position until the throttle hits it just before or when it hits the WOT position. It is imperative that this switch be a Normally Closed (NC) switch so the circuit is always made until you hit WOT at which point it opens and effectively disconnects the drop resistor from the circuit.

You can do the same thing by running the two wires to the cabin and hooking to manual switch (5 amp rating or higher) but I much prefer the WOT switch because you never have to worry about turning it on or off. You have enough to think about when racing without another stupid switch to turn on and off.

The micro switch I use is rated at 10 amps and I got it from an appliance shop where it is used in a microwave.
Most switches of this type are Normally Open (NO) and this will NOT work.

Community Member Credit: G4nismo

The Suprastick manual can be downloaded here: SSv4.6 – Manual

Tools Needed

  1. Wire stripper
  2. Wire taps
  3. Wire quick connectors (slide or bullet style)
  4. Soldering iron
  5. A lot of wires

Additional Parts Needed:

  1. DB9 male to DB9 male serial cable (for LCD screen)
  2. Null modem adapter (for LCD screen)
  3. USB to serial cable
  4. 16×2 LCD screen with serial port (optional but recommended)
  5. Shift light (optional)
  6. Two SPST toggle switches

Before you begin, disconnect the neg terminal of the battery.

Installation Steps

Step 1:

Remove shifter trim, ash tray, and the whole middle piece (one w/ the cupholder and armrest) for easier access to the TCM.

Step 2:

Locate the TCM, should be directly in front of you, you can’t miss it. looks like the ECU. remove clear plastic cover. here you will need to identify just 2 wires, one for solenoid A and other for solenoid B. these are the solenoids that controls your gear shifting.

Step 3:

Intercept wires 6 and 7 like so:

*Optional* If you want to let the suprastick control the TC lockup feature, you will have to cut wire #5 on the TCM and connect it to wire #15 on the suprastick. Then you will have to find an adequate brake signal source to tap into.

Step 4:

Finish wiring all the other wires

Suprastick:

  • wire 1: wire to ground source
  • wire 2: wire to a SPST switch, other end to +12V source
  • wire 3: tap into pin 24 on ecu
  • wire 4: refer to step 3
  • wire 5: refer to step 3
  • wire 8: Tap into pin#28 on the middle harness behind the gauge cluster.
  • wire 9: tap into pin 23 on ecu
  • wire 10: tap into pin #1 on the ASCD, located above the gas pedal (EL 151 of FSM)
  • wire 11: tap into pin 5 on ecu
  • wire 12: optional, refer to step 3
  • wire 13: refer to step 3
  • wire 14: refer to step 3
  • wire 15: optional, refer to step 3
  • wire 16: optional
  • wire 17: tap into pin #2 on the ASCD, located above the gas pedal (EL 151 of FSM)
  • wire 18: Optional
  • wire 19: Optional
  • wire 20: wire to a SPST switch, other end to a +12V source

For Wires 18 and 19, again this is optional. this is for the drop resistor, to run maximum pressure for the tranny line. i have mine connected to another toggle switch but if you want the suprastick to control it, just run it inline with the two wires on the drop resistor.

Step 5:

* Now for the programming. I’m not going to go too much into detail for this part b/c that’s what the manual is for. But there are a couple things that i need to mention that will save you time and headaches.

* For the initial setup, when your setting up your hyperterminal, select the correct COM port and follow all the settings. One thing you want to keep an eye on is the “hardware flow control” setting. try setting the flow control to hardware first and see if the hyperterminal screen corresponds when you push 1. if it doesn’t, disconnect, go back into the flow control setting and turn hardware flow to NONE. Now it should work.

* Couple things for the Vehicle settings. One advice is, keep the speed sensor teeth to 20 and just adjust the rear end ratio until the spd display matches the speed on the gauge cluster. Best to do this w/ 2 people, one driving at a constant speed of say 20 mph, and the other adjusting the rear end ratio.

* Also, remember to correctly adjust the shift pattern under the shift solenoid setup. by default its for the supra.

* for the automapping, the stock ecu defines your driving style, and not the other way around. The SSv4 will learn the stock ecu shift points if you have the stock ecu hooked up to it. Just drive the car once through the largest throttle range possible for as large a speed range possible and you are done. It is usually just quicker to tweak the base map provided, however.

That should do it. if anyone is interested in doing this and have any questions, please don’t hesitate to ask.

JIME’s Settings