Community Member Credit: Jose Vargas

I35 Cluster swap in the process, first ima swap out the long led tub it has to light up gauges and replace it with 4 RGB led strips with the module so I can remotely change to different colors quickly if I want to. Everything PNP like OEM. I’ll post links to what I used to make it perfect…

Has 4 pnp leds that can easily be swapped and for warning indicators you need to unsolder old leds and put in new ones 14 is needed

For the Auto guys you can swap out the shift indicator leds……..3mm for warning indicators,so since the cover and holes for leds is big enough im a swap out the 3mm to 5mm to have it brighter

Without OEM led tube

With oem led tube that lights up entire cluster, so as you see you can run strips

You need 4 strips of these RGB leds


Female……Pigtail connector to make it pnp to module


Module with remote to change to multiple color


Male Power connector to make it pnp, run ground to chassis and power wire with mini add a circuit with 15A fuse to ACC in fuse box


I35 cluster 80% done installed the leds strips. Just waiting for module and pigtail to make it pnp……

Swapped out the 5 pnp leds

5mm to the left soldered in compared to the small 3mm to the top right

5mm vs 3mm

Removed SLIP led so it will not turn on LED213.

Cluster done

Had to dissamble the cluster to put black tape over the AUTO indicators

5MM led clearance

Pnp connector all wired up and ready. Nice and clean…Mr. DoITRightEveyTime.

Cluster is done and installed……mission was a success…..Repinned the plugs and rewrapped harness

1 done 2 plugs left

Wiring mess

3 plugs all wrapped up

I35 Cluster & Prosport EVO series allows you to match up 4 different colors to cluster..

Community Member Credit: BOOTZ

So this was done using a red waterproof 120cm strip from eBay. Make sure you measure to be sure.

Description: 2pcs Red 120cm LED Side-emitting Shine Strips Side Glow Flexible Neon Brake lamp
Order Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/272474776774
Price: $12.25 (Shipped)


I started out by removing the driver’s side rear window molding. There is one 10mm bolt you have to remove and only visible when you open the trunk.

Once that is removed start prying upwards on the molding starting from the bottom and working your way up. There are about four clips holding it on. Be careful not to put too much pressure on the window or the body of the car. Don’t want to break glass or dent anything.

Once off should look like so….

Then take you led strip and apply two sided tape to it. I used 3m. You want to clean the led strip really well then I heated up the led and the tape before applying it. Did the same on the window. Cleaned it really well and heated it up.

Before applying the led to the window I set the roof spoiler in position and placed a small piece of the led underneath to see where i could place it without getting in the way of mounting the spoiler. Turned out to be maybe 1/2″ from the top of the window.

Also before applying, make sure your wires are running down the driver’s side. That is where the rubber boot is where the wires will run in.

You are then able to run the wires down towards the rubber boot going into the vehicle. I just tucked them under the window. The molding will cover it up anyway.

From here you can tap into the existing wires to the factory 3rd brake light (6.5 gens). If you don’t have the factory spoiler with 3rd brake light wires should be the same colors found in harness running towards the front of the vehicle.

If you pull up on the boot you can find your wires there.
12v – Red/Green
Ground – Black

From here you should be able to mount your roof spoiler and reassemble everything.

Here you can see they are pretty hidden unless you really look for them.

Night shots…

I also ended up putting a black vinyl overlay on the factory 3rd brake light to make it look like part of the spoiler. You could paint it to match the vehicle’s color if you don’t ever plan on using again.

Additional Reference Photos from DEADBOLT

I 3M taped the strip to the edge of the roof spoiler for it to be more visible.

I cut down the strip to fit exactly the lines of the spoiler and wired an exted + and – wires to it so I can connect it to the interior plug of where the old 3rd brake light use to be.

Test Pics:

Lights off shot:

Video from CHULO

Community Member Credit: ZaxWhite97Max

Recently I swapped trunk lids with one with a spoiler. And to my unpleasant surprise the LED strip on the spoiler did not work. I got on and searched and searched, Looked through the how-to’s and couldn’t find anything. Although someone did mention that the resistors go bad. Some people need this to work to pass inspection, and if you are like me and think that the clear LED strip “replacement” is ugly, nor do you want to shell out 170 bucks to Nissan for a new one, You can do this.


A Blow dryer/Heat gun, Soldering Iron, A Razorblade (or something to “pry” the casing off) and a $1.05.

I used a blow dryer because well, I didn’t have a heat gun and this works too. Your best bet is to heat up one side and try to ‘pry’ it open with something like a razorblade, Be careful not to crack it because it does crack pretty easily I noticed, Although I wasn’t too worried about it because when it is on the car you cannot see it, Just be careful to not crack it to bad so that water or something can seep it and destroy it.

I heated up one side and then stuck the razorblade in there and pried it down. I continued heating each part I pried.

After getting it pried down I noticed one of the resistors was pretty badly burnt out. I honestly do not know the resistance of it. I went to my local Radio Shack and picked up a set of resistors for a $1.05, I got 560 watt 1/2 ohm.

You can easily get a lower resistance, but be careful though. I did notice the 560 ohm wasn’t as bright as I wanted it and will be going back tomorrow for something lower. Here is a picture of it put in:

Notice the cut up black casing, Don’t worry to much about it, it should go back together like a puzzle, or atleast mine did. Because of the fact that I want a brighter one I do not have pictures of it on my car. Note that it is a LOT brighter than you think when you put the red reflector over it so don’t judge by just how bright the LEDS look w/o it.
I will get a better picture of it tomorrow. I havn’t sealed it back up yet but make sure to use something that will not let moisture in. But that is the easy part.

Hope this helps out some of you people!

Community Member Credit: mist max2000

I just wanted to throw this together so people can see what what an LED interior looks like…in post number 2 and 3 ill put some detailed pics up.. Let me know what you think.. any questions feel free to ask…



to get the map lights to work you need to reverse the polarity..once you remove the map light/sunglasses holder (2 phillips scerws in sunglasses holder then it pops off) you need to switch the – and + wires.. i did this by using quick taps as can be seen in this pic…

Heres the bulb I used,… Its a BA9 5 LED

heres the Dome light.. i got a 36 LED circuit board that had a adapter on the end the fit in the festoon bulb i dont remember the exact size sorry…and yes thats duct tape lol

heres the bulb for the personal mirror lights…3 SMT vanity bulb

and the bulb in the doors.. 6LED bulb 194 wedge bulb

I used 194 wedge bulb that had 4 LEDs flat faced like the previous 6 LED picture above…. heres the license plate LED’s

oh and i also put the same LED’s in my running lights as my license plate lights 194 wedge 4 led-flat,..also in the pic..paired with 5K HID fogs

Community Member Credit: pmas76

The lights that I use to illuminate the clear corners are the PIAA Xtreme Whites (194 Wedge Bulb) which you can also get from Custommaxima.com. I got the PIAA Xtremes because of their recommendations from fellow Maxima.org members and the fact that I use PIAA Xtreme Whites throughout the rest of the car. I wanted the entire car to use the same brand & style bulbs. The PIAA Xtreme Whites are brighter than stock bulbs yet give a slight tint of blue.

The clear corners are very easy to install. First remove the original front amber corner light by taking a butter knife wrapped in a paper towel and pry gently behind the thinner side of the oval light toward the rear of the car.

Once the stock front amber corner light is removed take the bulb housing off of the back of the corner light by turning it 90 degrees clockwise. Then remove the stock bulb and replace it with you new bulb of choice.

Now, what I would suggest doing, is place a thin bead of clear silicone sealant around the edge of where the plastic and the reflector of the corner light meet so that you can reduce the chance of condensation build up from rain. Next, put the bulb housing back in the corner light by turning it 90 degrees counter-clockwise. Then, just pop the corner light back into place.


As for the rear clear corner light you more or less follow the same steps as above. The only difference is that I would suggest prying the larger side of the oval closer to the front of the car because it is easier to remove that way.

At Night

For a inexpensive price tag the clear corner lights give the car that euro racing look and a nice contrast from the black paint on the car. I feel the clear corners look much better then those ugly stock amber and red corner lights that come stock on the car.

Community Member Credit: Kevin Kryzda

Tools necessary:

  • 10mm socket and an extension
  • Flathead screwdriver (or pry tool)
  • Wire/Side Cutters or Wire Strippers
  • Wire taps or soldering tools
Before You Start:
The purpose of this modification is to re-wire your fog light relay under your hood to receive signal from an accessory source of power that is independent of anything else in the car, allowing you to turn on your fog lights without the headlights as well as run them with your high beams. The modification is very inexpensive and will avoid/end the problems with the “windshield wiper” write-up.

1. First off your going to want to locate the relay box located on the left side of your under hood as indicated by the arrow.

2. Then you will want to remove the reservoir in between you and the relay panel. This is attached by two 10mm bolts on the left side of the car. Following this, set the reservoir aside.

3. Next you will want to remove the cover from the relay box prying the two tabs holding it on outward and lift the cover up.

4. Now you will want to remove the air conditioning relay and the heated mirror relay if you are equipped with them. To do this, use your pry tool and insert on the side of the relay that has a clip, push away from the relay and then pull up on the relay itself.

5. Next remove the two exposed 10mm bolts holding the relay box in. Now pull up on the box and release the snap tab located on the bottom arm of the box.
6. Once the relay panel is free from the car you will need to open it to expose the wiring inside. To do this release the 3 clips on the right and left side of the box indicated with the arrows. Then open.

7. Now that you have the wiring exposed you are going to be working with the signal wire from the fog relay and the accessory power wire from the air conditioning relay. The yellow wire coming out of the fog relay is the wire you want to give +12V and the pink wire with a blue stripe from the A/C relay is where you will get it. To access the pink wire better you will probably need to remove the relay harness from the housing. To do this pry in the direction indicated and push out the bottom of the housing.

8. Now cut the yellow wire and without cutting the pink wire run a wire from it to the yellow wire leading into the blue relay harness.

9. I prefer soldering all of my connections but you can attach how you like. I highly recommend no matter what you do though, make sure to tape up everywhere you work. Make sure to tape up the open end of the yellow wire as well.

10. Now close everything up and reverse the previous steps to return everything how you found it. Flip your fog lights on and admire. You can turn them on whenever you want granted the car is on.

Community Member Credit: maxilvr06

This page is a How to on clearing out that ugly orange blinker lens within the 02-03 maxima headlight housing. If you choose to use a clear lens (and not just leave the lens out) on your headlight, I suggest you buying a package of malibu 11 watt sealed beams (P/N: ML11P2) found at home depot in the outdoor lighting section. They are shown below:

Materials Needed:

  • 10mm Socket Wrench
  • 1 Average Phillips Screwdriver
  • 1 Small Phillips Screwdriver
  • 1 Small Flat Head Screwdriver (or Something Else Small and Flat)
  • Wide/Flat Screwdrivers (as Many as Needed)
  • Dremel Tool With Cutting Wheel and Fine Grit Sanding Attachments Oven
  • 1 Cookie Sheet/Baking Pan
  • 2 Old Towels
  • 2 Malibu 11 Watt Sealed Beams P/n:ml11p2 (Found at Home Depot in a Pack of Two in the Outdoor Lighting Section)
  • Channel Locks
  • Paper Towel


1.) Remove headlight from car by using a 10mm socket wrench to remove the two screws attached to the upper radiator support and pulling sharply.

2.) Unplug one grey harness leading to the low beam and unplug the blinker and the high beam bulbs by twisting and pulling out.

3.) Once the headlight is removed from the car, remove all the bulbs and the ballast from it:

-use an average sized phillips screwdriver to remove the three silver screws holding the ballast to the headlight housing

-unplug the harness connecting the ballast to the headlight housing by inserting a small flathead screwdriver (or something else small and flat) into the opening pictured below to release it while pulling

-disconnect the large red/orange wire from the anchor point by squeezing the tip end together and pulling through

-remove the clearance bulb,
-remove the black plastic cap covering the HID bulb

-twist the harness and pull out to reveal the bulb.

-After you get the bulb disconnected, remove it by pinching the two metal pins together and lifting upward giving you access to it. (all the attatched harnesses and plugs will be fine in the oven)

Here are what the bulb and ballast look like removed:

4.) Remove three very small screws from the backside of the headlight housing (two are located on the blinker side of the headlight, and one is just above where the ballast is; circled in red in the picture at the top of the page)

5.) Take an old towel and wet it, then put it on a cookie sheet or some type of baking pan so that the housing will not come in contact with hot metal while in the oven.

6.) Set the headlight on top of the wet towel face down (no need to cover the housing with the towel) and bake it for 20 minutes in the oven at 210 degrees.

**DANGER! Do NOT let any of the plastic parts, including the harnesses come in contact with any part of the oven or the metal pan! It could melt!**

7.) After taking the headlight out of the oven, lay it on an old towel and put the headlight on your lap while sitting down so you can get a good grip on it.

8.) Using a wide, flat screwdriver, gently insert it in between the black plastic housing and the clear lens where ever there is a gap. (i started at the top)

9.) With the screwdriver inserted still, slowly move it around the housing lifting the black plastic part up and try to pry the tabs up as you go. You can also use a couple other screwdrivers and just wedge them in where the tabs are so that you can pull apart the housing without having the tabs latch again on you.

10.) Be extremely patient on this part and try not to damage any of the plastic. (because it can be quite pliable after they’re baked) Once you get a bit of a gap all around the top of the housing, get a good grip and, without breaking anything preferably, slowly pull it apart. (the sealant will still be very sticky, so if you need to, you can put it back in the oven for 5 more minutes to make it a bit softer)

11.) When pulling apart the housing, try to release as many as the bottom tabs as possible for more ease, but after you get the top half disconnected, it should be pretty easy to pry apart the rest of the housing.

12.) When taken apart, it will look like the picture below. Remove the orange lens by simply snapping it out toward you from the three little tabs. (be very careful on this part though. The tabs are very small and will probably be very easy to break if too much stress is applied to it)

13.) Center the orange lens over the malibu housing as best as possible, and use a permanent marker to trace it onto the malibu lens.

14.) Using a dremel with a cutting wheel attachment, carefully cut the lens out of the housing. (try not to get too close to the circle you traced. the cut doesn’t have to be perfect and you’ll see why in the next step)

15.) Swap attachments on your dremel to a fine grit sander type and go to town sanding down the lens until you get a perfect fit. I suggest doing several trial fits before hand, because in my case, the circle i traced was a bit too small and i ended up using rubbing alcohol to remove the black circle i traced so that it wouldn’t show through.

16.) Snap the clear lens in the same way you took the amber one out, still being careful to not break one of the small tabs.

17.) Assemble the headlight again as best you can and bake for another 10 minutes at the same temp.

18.) Once the sealant is softened again, take your channel locks and put a paper towel inside of them (so that you don’t scratch the plastic) and go around the entire housing squeezing the lens back on using the channel locks. Make sure that all the tabs are attached firmly in the end.

19.) Re-assemble the entire housing and install it back on your car in reverse order and enjoy! (don’t forget the three little screws around the housing though, because i did!)

The results are great!

This is a comparison between the cleared headlight and the stock one. A pretty big difference if you ask me..

Community Member Credit: VQPower


  1. Find the blinker
    (on 4th gen, remove blinker and marker assembly, on 2k just remove side markers)
  2. Find the power for the blinker ( green wire )
  3. Tap a wire long enough to reach the side marker ( use the best judgment)
    on 2k you will need to pass this wire through to the marker somehow. find a hole
  4. Cut the ground on the marker (Black wire)
  5. Connect the wiretapped from blinker to the ground that goes TO the marker.

The wiring should result in:

  • Alternate blinking with lights are on
  • Markers blinking in sync when lights are off
  • Normal marker operation when not blinking

Disconnect the wire harnesses for better reach you may also have to cut away some of the plastic wire cover.
Use electrical tape or shrink wire wrap to make things neat.

Community Member Credit: Eddy

These puddle lights are a nice clean edition. Back in the day they use to have “Street Glow”. I find these are much cleaner and only turn on with either a door unlock or when you open door. Installation was pretty easy and straight-forward. You just need to make sure you align the LED pods so they don’t look out of place. I’ve had them for many years through rain and snow with no issues.

Price: $24.99
Item Description:
Brabus Style White 90-LED Underglow Under Car Puddle Lighting Lamp Universal
Order Link:


  • 2 x Strands of LED puddle lights
  • 3M double sided adhesive pads
  • Screws


  • Number of housing per strand: 5
  • Number of LED’s per housing: 9
  • Total of LED’s: 90
  • Voltage: 12v
  • Voltage connections: Hardwire, pair, ( Black – ) ( White or red + )
  • Wire length to power source: 5 Feet
  • Wire length between LED housing: 11 inches
  • Total length: 9 Feet

Additional Member Photos:

Community Member Credit: maximadave

I bought the Maglite at Home Depot for about $18 bucks. It’s a 4D size Maglite and you can get it in different colors. The mounts are sold in pairs so you only need one, they are about $3-$4. Just screw in the mount to the body of the car and you are done.

An anti-car-jacking mod for the Max!