Credit: James Hudson
Headlight Build: NATJU Garage
Credit: James Hudson
Headlight Build: NATJU Garage
Credit: Abdala Fernandez via https://www.fastmaximas.com/2019/12/20/4th-gen-r34-quad-projector-retrofit/
In this article, I go over the process for doing quad projector lights retrofit in eBay R34 Maxima headlights. Specifically the 4th generation Maxima(95-99). The projectors used were inexpensive Mini H1 projectors (https://amzn.to/2GX9GaA).
The previous lights I had on the car were FX35 projectors but the job was not great and I wanted to clean up the look of the front end of the car. I bought R34 headlights from eBay and with some modification, they fit well (I made a video and article on that here). I wanted to do an inexpensive retrofit job that was much cleaner than the previous one. I opted for Mini H1 projectors which are the common projectors that have a threaded shaft at the back and allows you to slide them through the cars existing housing light bulb socket hole.
It is common to use an oven to bake the housings to then remove the lens cover. However, I used a heat gun to loosen the glue holding the covers. Being inexpensive units, it was easy to separate them; OEM lights are tougher because they are properly sealed and glued. I separated the cover from the housing and then tested the projector. I first tested it on the low beam side. I slid the projectors threads through the R34’s bulb hole and right away saw an issue. The projectors’ back shaft was not long enough to be able to catch any threads with the nut that holds the projector in place.
I took out the grinder and started cutting. I used the side edge of a thick grinding wheel to remove some material from the R34’s bulb socket. I then was able to slide through the projector again and catch plenty of threads to put the nut and H1 bulb retainers. The projector looked great, it is said that the vertical alignment is not bad because it is using the stock bulbs hole which is lined up somewhat. But the rotation needs to be addressed, I eyeballed it at first to test putting the lens covers. They looked great, so next was the high beam side.
The high beam side is a different story, there are two issues to address. One, the bulb hole is too small to fit the projector back shaft through. The second is that even if you could slide the projector through, it would sit to far forward and hit the housing lens cover. In comes the angle grinder again, the goal here is to cut an oval so that the projectors reflector can sit on that oval deep into the housing and away from the lens cover; a file was used too. While cutting I would test the projector once in a while and ensure I was cutting a clean enough oval to not have gaps around the mating area to the reflector.
Next was the painting, I decided to go with an all-black housing; glossy. I painted everything except the projectors shroud. First I sprayed it with a primer and then the black. Once dry I went to line up the projectors.
To line up the projectors I mounted the housings on the car with no lens cover and used the garage wall. I know its very close but I felt it was good enough. I put in the bulbs then turned them on and rotated the projectors till I saw a horizontal line on the wall. This was not too hard because the high beam projector stays in place due to the shroud touching the floor and ceiling of the housing; holding it in place. This allowed you to rotate it to match the low beam projector. Once I had that set, I then slowly took them off so the high beam projector would not move. Then I sat it down and applied JB Weld to the back of the high beam projector. I used the original JB Weld.
Once the JB Weld was set on both housings all there is left to do is to put the lens covers. I heated the glue areas with the heat gun all around then I placed the cover on and pressed it with my palm against the housing. I then worked on the electronics, I originally had HID ballast’s with D2S bulbs on the FX35 projectors. I wired in another set of ballasts, h1(hid) bulbs as well as relays. I turned them on and waited about 15 minutes to see how hot the wiring and the housing lens cover got. The front of the lens cover gets pretty hot, it is a focused beam like using a magnifying glass to burn with the sun. The back of the projectors got extremely hot, I was not comfortable at all with it; it felt like it could burn wiring or anything near it. So I then ordered H1 LED’s, removed the ballasts and wired the new bulbs in. The output still looks great with LED’s, you can see more intensity with the HID’s for sure but LED’s do not stay far behind so far.
I am very happy with the results and it was exactly how I pictured it. The front of the car looks aggressive and different. I will give an update with night time shots and some feedback.
Credit: Jairo Javier M
Order Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KTNBM6O
Credit: Jorge Salazar
Credit: Mark Baker
**THIS SETUP IS FULLY INDEPENDENT TO A SEPARATE TOGGLE SWITCH, PULLING POWER FROM YOUR AMPS POSITIVE WIRE, IT WILL NOT WORK WITH YOUR SHIFTER**
I only have an HID in the driver’s side. The passenger side is LED which has stock functionality with the shifter. I did this so I wouldn’t have to use the HID every time I back up, every time I shift into Drive causing the ballast to fire up for a split second passing reverse reducing the life span, and to be able to blind tailgaters behind me on the highway. You have no idea how many people get my attention to tell me one of my reverse lights are out. If you decide to do HIDs on both sides then just combine the positives from each ballast and ground negatives on each side near the ballast.
The “Pilot Safety” toggle switch I used had 3 wire connections. If you get a switch with only two connections, then tough titties, you figure out how that shit works, I don’t know, don’t ask me. I used regular speaker wiring (16 or 14 gauge I think, you don’t wanna use anything too small for obvious reasons) and “crimp style” connectors.
Wires will connect from:
Find a suitable place to mount the switch and figure out how to run wires to that location. I put mine where the heated seat switches would be if I had leather, which I don’t. Lucky me because running wires from there was extremely easy, and was an extremely convenient location to hit the switch on the go. I just ran it straight back underneath the center console, through the rear hump on the floor to under the bench seat. Then to the amp/cap and around the “carpet” lining of the trunk.
I pulled power from my Amp/Capacitor wiring which goes directly into the switch. If you don’t have an amp, just run a wire from the battery. This is where you use appropriate sized “crimp style” connectors. You can also use a distributor block to split the amp wire so one goes to the amp and the other goes to the switch. Me being ghetto and cheap, my power wire is connected directly at the positive connection of the capacitor itself. Before I had the capacitor, I had it connected directly to the amps power/positive connection with no problems.
(^HIGHLY RECOMMENDED: Use an “in-line fuse” here BETWEEN the amp and the switch, so you don’t blow the bulb, ballast or switch, due to any spikes or whatever. I think a 10-15amp fuse will suffice but start low, fuses are cheaper to replace. I have one but I haven’t even put it in yet and haven’t encountered any problems thus far. I’m just connected directly.)
Wire comes out of the switch and is grounded to any suitable bolt. Mine is actually grounded at the amps negative terminal, don’t ask me why, it’s probably wasn’t the brightest idea, but I did. (Haven’t encountered any problems yet) Then run a ground from the negative terminal of the ballast to any suitable bolt. (Good, now your nice and grounded)
Comes out of the switch goes straight to the positive connection to the HID Ballast. (Again, appropriate sized “crimp style” connectors were used here on each ends, but your set up may be different, I don’t know know. I’m not there.)
How you fit the bulb into the tail light is all up to you. I got mine from Gregory Lachhman in New York who did his a long time ago. He got an extra Oem bulb socket from the the JY or whatever, drilled a big enough hole through it to fit the bulb, and sealed it in place with JB weld I think. He helped me through this when I did it so credit goes out to him. So my HID bulb is pretty much plug and play. Perfect fit. Although if the bulb blows out, I’m gonna have to find another socket to drill a hole in and fit the bulb.
I used a slim ballast and just used double sticky tape to mount it to the inner fender wall.
My bulb is 6000k.
I’m sure there are many other methods to doing this, but this is how I did it. If this DIY has helped you, please post a pic of your setup and tag me in it. Thanks.
Community Member Credit: Kevin Kryzda
4. Now you will want to remove the air conditioning relay and the heated mirror relay if you are equipped with them. To do this, use your pry tool and insert on the side of the relay that has a clip, push away from the relay and then pull up on the relay itself.
7. Now that you have the wiring exposed you are going to be working with the signal wire from the fog relay and the accessory power wire from the air conditioning relay. The yellow wire coming out of the fog relay is the wire you want to give +12V and the pink wire with a blue stripe from the A/C relay is where you will get it. To access the pink wire better you will probably need to remove the relay harness from the housing. To do this pry in the direction indicated and push out the bottom of the housing.
8. Now cut the yellow wire and without cutting the pink wire run a wire from it to the yellow wire leading into the blue relay harness.
9. I prefer soldering all of my connections but you can attach how you like. I highly recommend no matter what you do though, make sure to tape up everywhere you work. Make sure to tape up the open end of the yellow wire as well.
10. Now close everything up and reverse the previous steps to return everything how you found it. Flip your fog lights on and admire. You can turn them on whenever you want granted the car is on.
Order Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-LED-Halo-For-2002-2003-Nissan-Maxima-Dual-LED-Halo-Black-Headlights-Pair/274382324188
Bulb Size: 3175
Community Member Credit: Edgar A. Peña
Order Link: https://www.carledlogo.com/shop/car-logo-badge/light-up-nissan-emblem/
Community Member Credit: gtrrider
Basing our review on a 1995 Nissan Maxima, this application for years has been in great need of a taillight upgrade that did not take away from the car but gave it a very classy and sensual look. Despite the “demand” for the atrocious looking Altezza taillights on the market, Custommaxima has conjured up a way of bringing back the o-so-wonderful Clear/Red Taillights which until now have been sported by only a select few who could get their hands on them. Being that we were one of the lucky ones to have a set on hand we will be testing these new CE Taillights up against an old and sought-after rival “David L Clear/Reds”.
Here is what CustomMaxima (a CustomEnterprise group) had to say about this product, Our customers have been asking for red and clear taillights for their 1995-1996 Maximas and we answered. Now you can eliminate the orange turn signal found on stock taillights and replace it with our new red and crystal clear tails. Sold as a 4 piece set replacing your trunk lights also. The trunk lights need to be replaced as our new lights have a crystal look to them on the clear lens and not the “cloudy white” clear lens found on the factory backup lens. We are sure you will be pleased with the excellent fitment and superb quality of this product. Installation is easy as we include all necessary bulbs and wiring harnesses”. We shall see about that.. read on
With an almost 11yr old car, lighting equipment is certainly looking dated and not appealing to the more modern style lighting equipment. There is noticeable differences with this new system in that there is a reflective diamond-like backing to better illuminate the housing and also provide a better light output when reversing. Not only is the reflective backing more esthetically pleasing to look at but they also provide the brake light area with a much darker and pronounced red glow when the brakes are applied and when the parking lights are illuminated. These new light assemblies are also prepared with a nice but could be better-applied weather-stripping around the outer edge for those times when you do not need water entering your trunk compartment. Most aftermarket taillight assemblies are lacking very important details such as reflective material which is used to draw passing motorists away from the vehicle if you happen to park on the side of the road. This is a safety requirement, and we give a thumbs-up to CE for adding these to their product. Lastly, a key difference between the CE Taillight and the Factory (David L) is that the rear backing is completely redesigned, which may not be for the better.
Part Number Information:*
Tools Required for Installation:
Materials Provided for Installation:
Removal is quite easy with basic tools. Before you begin, we would like to emphasize that the key should be out of the ignition before removal/installation with the parking/driving lights in the off position. Going against this advisor could lead to electrical short, or much worse. ALWAYS CHECK ALL POWER IS OFF BEFORE WORKING!
To begin locate the tabs which hold in the trunk lining to the body of the car, remove these with a flathead screw driver, they should come out fairly easily. Remove both side linings to give you space to work on the taillights. When removed they should expose to you the rear end of the taillight housing, locate the four(4) bolts on each end. Two of the 4bolts are hidden underneath the hanger holding the wiring harness after removing the yellow wire hangers from the inner two(2) bolts. Disconnect all wiring from the back of the housing and proceed to remove. Removing the taillight itself is quite the task, so my suggestion to you is to work each corner one at a time pushing as hard as you can from the inside out without damaging anything.
Installation is the reverse of installation, but we will not be using the backing plate of the OEM taillights, we are given a new harness which for some very strange reason has a different sized side marker bulb then what the factory comes with, which we aren’t supplied. When mounting the new CE assembly make sure to keep watch of surrounding seal so that it seals tightly into place for water not to reach inside your trunk compartment. Although possible it is very hard to maneuver the very loosely applied weather-strip to seal properly, I would recommend laying the light in place, and then pushing in the strip while someone secures the screws (factory screws are not exactly made to fit on these) so we would recommend CE supplying new bolts/washers to fit these. Make sure not to over tighten these bolts to the assembly as they are very weak and can easily break if too much pressure is applied *hint*strengthen posts*hint*.
To begin locate the four(4) bolts on each end of the tail light, unbolt all and disconnect all wiring from the back of the housing and proceed to remove. These lights are very tight and uneasy to manage, so if you can try and wedge a wrapped flat head screwdriver between the trunk and the tail light and slowly pry the two apart. Sure enough, the light will slowly come apart from the trunk and you are on your way to replacing the new CE light in its place. Installation is the reverse of the removal, but as with the outer lights we will not be using the factory backing plate, but the supplied CE plate. Final Product: Make sure all mounting points are secured properly, all harnesses connected fully, turn the lights on and enjoy.