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Community Member Credit: Jerry Herrera

Notes:

  • Overall, pretty much a direct fit. See reference photo on the bracket that needs to be drilled out a little.
  • They look really good in the car and give that bucket seat type feel while driving.
  • You do lose your heated seats and electronic adjustments. But I prefer performance over comfort.

Price: $146.32
Order Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-LED-Halo-For-2002-2003-Nissan-Maxima-Dual-LED-Halo-Black-Headlights-Pair/274382324188

General Feedback:

  • With the 6000k HIDs you wont really be able to see the halo rings. the lenses that they use give off a slight glare which actually make the HIDs look a little brighter than they are, which to me isnt a bad thing at all. i would post a pic of them lit on my car but its in the shop.
  • One of my buddies here in MI bought the ebay projector head lights and his bulbs weren’t seating properly. The right bulb was bouncing in the housing. They didn’t fit properly and just were cheap quality. So I personally wouldn’t recommend them.
  • Are people trolling by trying to buy ebay headlights? Only thing they’re good for are the lens lol
  • Ebay halo’s suck… ZERO light distribution. Youd have more light on the road getting 5th gen headlights and silverstars lol.

Photos:

Credit: Abdala Fernandez via https://www.fastmaximas.com/2019/12/20/4th-gen-r34-quad-projector-retrofit/

In this article, I go over the process for doing quad projector lights retrofit in eBay R34 Maxima headlights. Specifically the 4th generation Maxima(95-99). The projectors used were inexpensive Mini H1 projectors (https://amzn.to/2GX9GaA).

The previous lights I had on the car were FX35 projectors but the job was not great and I wanted to clean up the look of the front end of the car. I bought R34 headlights from eBay and with some modification, they fit well (I made a video and article on that here). I wanted to do an inexpensive retrofit job that was much cleaner than the previous one. I opted for Mini H1 projectors which are the common projectors that have a threaded shaft at the back and allows you to slide them through the cars existing housing light bulb socket hole.

Mini H1 Projector with shroud.

It is common to use an oven to bake the housings to then remove the lens cover. However, I used a heat gun to loosen the glue holding the covers. Being inexpensive units, it was easy to separate them; OEM lights are tougher because they are properly sealed and glued. I separated the cover from the housing and then tested the projector. I first tested it on the low beam side. I slid the projectors threads through the R34’s bulb hole and right away saw an issue. The projectors’ back shaft was not long enough to be able to catch any threads with the nut that holds the projector in place.

R34 Nissan Maxima head lights.
Lens cover separated
R34 Nissan Maxima head lights with Mini H1 projector.
R34 shroud modification
I used an angle grinder
R34 Nissan Maxima head lights modified for mini H1 projectors.
R34 shroud modification
R34 Nissan Maxima head lights modified for mini H1 projectors.
R34 shroud modification

I took out the grinder and started cutting. I used the side edge of a thick grinding wheel to remove some material from the R34’s bulb socket. I then was able to slide through the projector again and catch plenty of threads to put the nut and H1 bulb retainers. The projector looked great, it is said that the vertical alignment is not bad because it is using the stock bulbs hole which is lined up somewhat. But the rotation needs to be addressed, I eyeballed it at first to test putting the lens covers. They looked great, so next was the high beam side.

The high beam side is a different story, there are two issues to address. One, the bulb hole is too small to fit the projector back shaft through. The second is that even if you could slide the projector through, it would sit to far forward and hit the housing lens cover. In comes the angle grinder again, the goal here is to cut an oval so that the projectors reflector can sit on that oval deep into the housing and away from the lens cover; a file was used too. While cutting I would test the projector once in a while and ensure I was cutting a clean enough oval to not have gaps around the mating area to the reflector.

R34 Nissan Maxima head lights modified for mini H1 projectors.
R34 Nissan Maxima head lights modified for mini H1 projectors.
R34 Nissan Maxima head lights modified for mini H1 projectors.

Next was the painting, I decided to go with an all-black housing; glossy. I painted everything except the projectors shroud. First I sprayed it with a primer and then the black. Once dry I went to line up the projectors.

R34 Nissan Maxima head lights tapped for painting.
R34 Nissan Maxima light housings painted black.

To line up the projectors I mounted the housings on the car with no lens cover and used the garage wall. I know its very close but I felt it was good enough. I put in the bulbs then turned them on and rotated the projectors till I saw a horizontal line on the wall. This was not too hard because the high beam projector stays in place due to the shroud touching the floor and ceiling of the housing; holding it in place. This allowed you to rotate it to match the low beam projector. Once I had that set, I then slowly took them off so the high beam projector would not move. Then I sat it down and applied JB Weld to the back of the high beam projector. I used the original JB Weld.

R34 Nissan Maxima head lights with mini h1 projectors.
R34 Nissan Maxima head lights with mini h1 projectors.
R34 Nissan Maxima head lights with mini h1 projectors.
Turbo Nissan Maxima with R34 with quad projectors.

Once the JB Weld was set on both housings all there is left to do is to put the lens covers. I heated the glue areas with the heat gun all around then I placed the cover on and pressed it with my palm against the housing. I then worked on the electronics, I originally had HID ballast’s with D2S bulbs on the FX35 projectors. I wired in another set of ballasts, h1(hid) bulbs as well as relays. I turned them on and waited about 15 minutes to see how hot the wiring and the housing lens cover got. The front of the lens cover gets pretty hot, it is a focused beam like using a magnifying glass to burn with the sun. The back of the projectors got extremely hot, I was not comfortable at all with it; it felt like it could burn wiring or anything near it. So I then ordered H1 LED’s, removed the ballasts and wired the new bulbs in. The output still looks great with LED’s, you can see more intensity with the HID’s for sure but LED’s do not stay far behind so far.

I am very happy with the results and it was exactly how I pictured it. The front of the car looks aggressive and different. I will give an update with night time shots and some feedback.

Turbo Nissan Maxima with R34 with quad projectors.
Turbo Nissan Maxima with R34 with quad projectors.
Turbo Nissan Maxima with R34 with quad projectors.
Turbo Nissan Maxima with R34 with quad projectors.

Community Member Credit: Winard Porter

So due to the fact that there was little to no info on here regarding the mirror swap, I decided to do a write-up on the process as i experienced it. Please note, you do this at you own risk.

Tools Needed:

  • Wire Stripper
  • 24 FT Electric Wire
  • Electric Tape
  • Phillips Screwdriver
  • Flat Head Screwdriver
  • 10MM Socket
  • Metal Drill Bit
  • Drill
  • Dremel Tool
  • Mirrors (Left and Right)

Step 1

Remove door panel by removing the 3 screws. The panel is also held with clips. Pull the ends of the panel to pop the clips out. Be careful not to yank the puddle light connector when removing. Once panel is out, you can completely detach it from the car by removing the actuator cables or you can leave those intact and rest the panel to the side.

Step 2

Locate the mirror harness. You will be splicing into the harness using the above wiring schematic. Repeat as needed for both sides.

Note: I kept the stock wiring intact just in case i decide to go back to the original mirrors, its plug and play.

Drivers Side

Passenger Side

Step 3

Once the wiring for the mirror movement is complete. Proceed to wiring the power and ground for the signal lights. I ran mine from the rear turn signals. You will be tapping into the black and green wire at the harness. Once you tap in, you will need to route the wire to the front. I ran mine through the panels and through the grommet at the door.

Step 4

Once all wiring is done, you will now need to mount the mirrors.

Note: This is not a perfect mount. It will not be as clean and flush as the stock mirrors were mounted. But if aligned properly, it can be made to fit neatly. I am including a picture of how my passenger side was mounted to give you an idea.

Once mounted, you will notice a small portion of the mounted portion will need to be shaved off as it touches the mounting on the car when the door closes. I used my Dremel here.

Final Product

 

Credit: dbaray

This is my first time ever doing this on my car and I thought I should share it in the forums. I think it’s cool and I highly recommend any of you to do this to your beautiful maxima as this looks so dope at night! I did this all by myself and I think I did a great job.

In total, I got the whole module for about $100 on Amazon and 2 cans of paint (duplicolor) for about $15 so it cost me about $115. Other places would charge you about $700 – $1000. Mine is a 300-star kit and you can always upgrade to more stars. They go all the way up to 1000 stars. These are the channels that helped guide me so it could help you as well!

Install Notes:

  • It’s all done on the same headliner. It took me about 10 hours to perfect every marking and glue the optic fibers to the headliner and I let the glue cure for 2 days. I would not recommend supergluing the fibers because when you superglue the fibers, it can eat away at them as it dries. You can use hot glue or some paste or silicone but don’t use a lot just a drop.
  • The main trick is getting the headliner out and back in. I’m sure there are instructions on the forums to get it out but basically, I just unbolted the door a bit to allow it to open as wide as it could and i didn’t have to remove it. I removed all seats to get reupholstered anyway and the center console and parking brake were removed as well and it came out fine. Be careful when you bend it to get out because u can crack it but i didnt crease or crack mine.
  • When I finally put it back in, I took the sunroof door out from the backside near the rear window it comes out with 2 little tabs that unscrew on the top of the brackets that hold the sunroof on. Just slide it out through there and slide it back in. So basically, get the whole headliner back, in the same way, you took it out, be sure to tape the sunroof to the headliner to not fall (you can remove the tape after its in) then once the headliner is inside put the sunroof door in FIRST!
  • Allow an extra strand of optic fiber about 12 inches to go back and forth without pulling any out and you are good. If you don’t have a sunroof it will be easier or if you don’t want to put any fibers in the sunroof.

Install Photos