Interior, Exterior & Lighting


The Magic Drift Subaru Impreza STi Front Lip officially fits the 2007/2008 6thgen Maxima.

Must have the 07/08 bumper for this specific lip. See information below:

Price: $74.99
Order Link:

Fitment Photos:

Member Credit: yellow_cake

Hi folks, just thought I’d share my retrofit project on my 99 Maxima.

– Used Depo headlights.
– G37 sedan projector.
– ’13 Cadillac SRX semi-clear lens.
– OEM G37 shrouds.
– Denso Slim ballasts.
– Osram CBI 66240 bulbs.
– Nichia Superflux white LEDs.
– exLEDs reflectors for superflux LEDs.
– Custom wiring harness + DRL & headlight controller.

Mounted using the JNC method, giving minor rotation and height adjustment on top of the factory reflector adjusters (vert + horiz).
For more info about the JNC mounting method: http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show…model-pictures
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OEM G37 sedan shrouds fitted.
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After cutting the container, I used lots of JB weld to secure it into place.
Not shown, but there is also a bunch of epoxy around the inside for added strength. For that I used a self-mixing syringe type clear epoxy.
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Here it is, fitment with the reflector mounted into the housing.
The empty containers were from workout supplements; different colours, but both were identical in size.
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I used a sheet of balsa wood for the base, with some chrome vinyl for the front edge which will be visible.
The LED were secured into the reflectors with epoxy; the reflectors secured to the base & one-another with clear epoxy.
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Home-made resistor array, clear-coated after everything was soldered to prevent the copper from oxidizing.
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Epoxy’d the DRL base into place.
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Cutout the top cover, also made from a sheet of balsa wood. Showing the bottom view where the chrome vinyl wraps around.
Prior to mounting, I spread epoxy all over to prevent the edges of the vinyl from lifting.
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Epoxy’d the top cover. The reason I used chrome vinyl is so that the DRL assembly flows well with the rest of the headlight.
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Close up of fitment.
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The Denso slims had the short cords, this would be problematic for most retrofits…
I extended the wires while making the ballasts D2S/AMP hybrid. This will make headlight removal easier as well.
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Soldered + adhesive lined shrink tubing. Notice how the solder joints offset one-another, good practice in case the joint or insulation fails (which it shouldn’t, lol).
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Terminals crimped on.

Ooooohhh, aaaahhh… I’ll be potting the ballasts as well.

Wires fished out through a rubber grommet.
Here’s the wiring setup: The one loom has the DRL + solenoid wires, the other has the ballast cord.
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Cap screwed on, sealing the back from dust/water.
The 3-pin connector wires: solenoid positive, ground, and DRL positive.
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The rubber grommet at the bottom.
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Headlight completed!
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Here’s the custom DRL controller + headlight controller.

The DRL controller has a dual brightness mode via an external PWM (ebay). Also, I’ve made it so engaging the e-brake will disable the DRL, just like the stock DRL. This will give me the ability to pull the handbrake up one click and have the DRLs off if I need to be stealthy, lol.

On the right is the low+high beam controller. basically it’s a delay off circuit. Meaning, if the headlights are on and then turn them off, it will take about 2 seconds to shut off… I did this mainly for flashing while the headlights are off. This way it’s not flashing the ballasts as they remain on in between flashes.
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Ebay PWM at the bottom.

Potted the Denso ballasts.
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Made a 9004 “connector” out of an old bulb. Removed the bulb and soldered wires onto the pins, then filled it with potting compound.
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Eventually I plan on making an Arduino controlled DRL/headlight controller, it will have a fancy aluminum housing… For now, I’ve got the current setup wrapped in electrical tape… yea, it looks like a grease job, LOL.
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DRLs on:
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LEDs are dimmed when parking lights come on.

Low beams on:
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I don’t have output pics at the moment, but I’ll get them in the next few days.

Credit: Fezzik (David Honey)

This is the How To on the installation of heated mirrors. A few things first before I go on. I have the automatic climate control with the rear window defogger switch on it. The side view mirrors are linked to this switch. For those with manual climate control, I assume that it is also linked to your rear defogger switch (RichK on maxima.org said he got the same reading as I). Total costs are as follows quoted from Dave Burnette (1-888-254-6060):

Mirror Heater Relay = $12.22
Side view mirror glass with heating element only = $45.72 per side

First of all. Make sure you do not have the heated mirror option. To make sure, you can either press the rear window defogger switch and put your hands on the mirror to see if it gets warm or pop off your side view mirror glass and see if you have wires running to the mirror itself. If you do, then you have this option already. The picture below is one showing the difference in the two mirrors. The right does not have this option and the left mirror does. You will have to purchase the mirror on the left because it has a heater element built into the glass mirror.

If you do not, then follow these instructions to get them. First of all, open your hood and when looking at the engine bay look to your left and you will see a black box that contains some relays. Open that up and find the corresponding spot for the heated mirror (it says on the black box where its at.) If you have a spot to put a relay in then all is well so far, and later you will have to buy the relay or in my case I had a nice surprise and already had the relay there. Ok the next criteria you need to find out in order for you to proceed is to take off your door paneling and look at the wiring harness going to the side view mirror (see below pic). The big black plastic piece is the cover to the side view mirror. There are 3 wires (yellow purple and dark blue) going into this and into the side view mirror. There are 3 wires corresponding to these wires on the other side of the connectors. Now take note of the other 2 wires (Green and light blue) coming out of the top right two holes. There is normally nothing here, but on the corresponding other side there are two wires leading up to these.

These are the wires that are pre-wired for the heated mirror. I tested this theory out by hooking up a voltmeter to the wires that I put in the top right holes. (I originally had the connector in the above picture disconnected and tried to test the voltage on the 2 small pins and that was too hard to do. I shorted the circuit and blew fuse 13… so do like I did above. SO much easier). When plugged into a voltmeter and with the rear defroster on I got around 12 volts (sorry about the blurry pictures):

And with the rear defogger switch off reads 0.001Volts:

The next step is to take off the black plastic cover that is covering the side view mirror bolts (same plastic cover as seen in the above picture that the 3 wires are running into.) Unplug the connector, and take off the three bolts that are holding the mirror onto the door.

What it looks like with the mirror off (inside). Also notice how many wires are running into this connector. Look below the black tape. 5 of them.

Outside view with mirror off:

Now you have to take out the 3 screws that are below the side view mirror.Notice the blue. Yep that’s locktite. I striped the head of the screw on the passenger side and took me 2 hours to finally get it out. SO BE CAREFUL TAKING THESE OUT:

Here is the assembly all apart:

Now look at the part of the side view mirror that faces the car the part that has the 3 places to bolt onto. There is a cover on this that you have to take off. The insulation is glued on there so your going tear that. Nothing you can do about that. Look below how I tore mine. Unscrew the thing that is holding the wiring harness in place.

I apologize but I forgot to take some pictures from here on out. It was getting late. But now, you can have full access to this gray tubing. Remove the actuators (the things that make the mirror go up and down, right and left) from the side view mirror. This is held on by 3 screws. When you take this off you will see 4 wires. Didn’t I just say there was 3 wires going to the side view mirror. I did. But one is spliced somewhere in the gray tubing. Dave Burnette (You maxima guys should know him) and I were talking about this for awhile until I finally found out the reason The ECM even shows 3 wires but if you look inside the actuator, there is a wire that is split. Ok back to the subject at hand. Remove the 2 connectors (gray and black) from the actuator. Remember which go where. I marked it with scotch tape. Now the wiring can slide down the tube that is inside the mirror. Wish I had a pic of this but you will see what I am talking about. Now you can run wire through the gray tubing easily.

First I ran 2 wires long enough to reach from the other end of the side view mirror where the heater element connector is to reach all the way to the connector in the door panel.To run wire through this gray tubing was tricky, but I used solder wire. The stuff that’s flimsy. Well, it’s stoutenough to push the solder wire through the grey tubing. Then I tied ( you may try taping it) to the wire and pulled it through. You now have a wire going all the way through. Now put everything back together the way you took it off. I did not worry about the insulation from the above picture because it all went back and even though it is torn still covered everything up. Now that everything is back together you now have what you started with but, now with 2 wires running through the mirror. Here’s the part where I had to get creative. You have to have a metal pin connector to fit into the big plastic connector. Luckily I have a storage area of computer parts and wiring harnesses from computers. I actually got the 2 pins I need from a 1985 Honda Accord radio wiring harness for aftermarket systems. Lucky me. Now all that leaves is the connector for the side view mirror. Take a look at it below:

Of all things I found to fit into here… it was a long computer jumper. Sorta like the audio cables you plug from your cd drive to your sound card, but I had a 2 prong one. With a little bit of firm pressure it fit right in and quite snugly. Popped the mirrors back into place and I now have heated side view mirror option on my car. Supposed to snow soon. Can’t wait to try it out.

Special thanks go out to my dad for helping me decipher the wiring diagram on the ESM and reading the voltage, and to Dave Burnette for his time in this as well.

Member Credits: Voltage Drop (NISformance) for the original installation diagram. Juan Gonzalez for the Plug Photos.

All you need to do is re-pin the wires. No need to extend them.

Re-pinning Instructions

Backside of completed M34 Wiring

Backside of completed M32 Wiring

LED Color Swap (By Eddy)

The Infiniti i35 has a single light source which makes it easy to swap to an LED strip. Below is what is commonly used since it allows you change the color as you want. I went with blue but good to have options. I tapped into an ACC power source for the lightening.

Order Link: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-module-strings/rgb-led-module-linear-sign-module-w-3-smd-leds/1779/?fbclid=IwAR3hVwmM8F2BbU6cFZxDSYM7jNjFEZtTa_vm_AP76hrhakAO4ZgOF3NoSrE

Additional Photo’s



Member Credit: Eddymaxx

I recently installed an Auto Meter 22813 triple gauge pod and Ortiz clock replacement pod on my 2002 5thgen Maxima. The Auto Meter pod goes over your existing pod and fits perfect. I’m happy with the overall setup.

Auto Meter Part Number: 22813 (Price Approx. $90 bucks or so). You can find it on eBay.

Ortiz Custom Pod Part Number: OCPN-65 (Price $109.00). You have to order it directly through their site below.
Order Link: http://ortizcustompods.com/nissan.html 

Left Gauges: Water Temp, Oil Pressure, Fuel Pressure
Center Gauges: Oil Temp, Air/Fuel, Boost

Member Credit: Douglas Sands / CGR$ Engine Initiative

So you can use this info to set up whatever vehicle wheel to the 2003 Nissan maxima. This is a direct plugin for a 2009-2014 Maxima or 370z. I went with the max for the airbag symbol, didn’t need a huge z on my wheel.

These are the pin positions inside the vehicle. Just do the same for the other vehicle, and match them to their function. As long as the clockspring connector is the same just set it up and plug it in.

ASCD Ground17Black
ASCD Switch18Red
2007 Horn to 2003 Clockspring

Member Credit: vastmax

I acquired some genuine TDM Nissan mirrors a while ago with the convex glass, sidemarkers, puddle lights, heated, and of course, folding functionality.

I ran my wires from the door to inside the car through a small grommet that is located right beside where the bundled door wires go in. You can access this from the wheel well if you take the wheel liner off. When wiring the folding function to the switch itself run the (+) and (-) to the switch for one of the mirrors, then tap those wires for the second mirror. The (+) wire goes in the blank 2nd spot and the (-) wire goes to the last hole on the bottom row of the molex. Also, I noticed while looking through the FSM that I believe that all the heaters need to work is the heated mirror relay under the hood. I’m 90% sure all the wiring comes in all Maxima’s. It’s not cold enough here yet top try it out, but someone up north can let me know if that’s the case.

This is how I wired mine and the mirrors worked the first time and still continue to work.

For reference, this is your SECU under the driverpanel

Pin 1: Turn Signal + (BK/R)
Pin 2: Turn Signal – (BK/W)
Pin 3: Puddle Light – (BK)
Pin 4: Puddle Light + (BK/Y)

In addition to the harness:
Power folding: + Pink, – Orange
Heater is Green and Blue gray but I can’t remember which is + or –

Member Credit: CRiME

What’s up guys,

Following up from 95maxrider’s awesome door lock actuator thread. So My ’99 developed an issue wherein all of the locks would only lock / unlock halfway. The problem got worse with the cold weather, to the point where the rear passenger side door wouldn’t unlock at all. I got tired of reaching around to manually lock all of the doors before exiting the car, so I decided to do something about it.

I figured the actuators were failing – no problem, right? I’ll just grab some from RockAuto. Well, I soon found out that the prices for our actuators have become ridiculous. The cheapest prices for the rears were about $150 each, and the fronts were about $85 each, while the 5th gen actuators are about $10-$15 each. I didn’t want to take the chance on a used JY / ebay part, so I began to look at other options. I found a set of four universal actuators on amazon for $13 shipped, and I took a chance. What’s the worst that can happen, right? if they didn’t work well, I was only out $13. Link to the actuators I purchased is here: Amazon Amazon

They arrived a few days ago and I began the project. I started with the rear d/side door. The universal actuators came with no instructions of any kind. Thankfully, the install for these things is fairly straightforward, and I’ll do my best to recap what I did. If you can install a radio / amp, you can definitely do this.

1) First, you need to remove the rear door panel. If you’ve never done this before, here is a video tutorial, thanks to pmohr:

Once you have the panel off, you’ll be looking at this (I removed the factory plastic moisture barrier):

2) The actuator is hidden behind the door frame. You can see its harness through the hole near the seat. I removed the harness by pushing a flathead screwdriver through the hole, to release the clip. Then I used a second screwdriver to pry the harness out while pressing on the clip with the 1st screwdriver. Once I had the harness out, I bolted the actuator into this spot. To get this to work, I had to break the mounting bracket that it came with. This is a great spot for the actuator, because you don’t have to drill any new holes in the door frame. You can attach it to the existing bolts in a V orientation:

4) On the factory harness, the wires that you’ll want to tap into are the brown / white and solid brown. Connect the brown/white to green, and the solid brown to the blue wire of your universal actuator. The blue wiretaps work great for this

5) Once the wires were tapped, I plugged the harness back into the OEM actuator. This was not even necessary, because the universal actuators are more than sufficient to push / pull the rods, but I insulated the taps with electrical tape and reconnected it anyway. Once your wiring is done, you’ll need to connect the universal rod to the factory rod. I bent it into this shape, fed it through the actuator, and connected it to the factory rod with the supplied clamp and screws. **IMPORTANT** – before you bolt the new rod in, make sure that the orientation is correct – if the lock is OPEN, you want the new actuator to be EXTENDED. if the lock is closed, you want the actuator to be fully retracted. I added some blue Loctite to the clamp threads as well, in the event that the screws somehow loosen up over time.

7) While I had the panel off, I decided to add some speakers to the rear doors, to give my audio some rear fill. I had some coaxials that I had taken out of my previous car, so I decided to throw them in. Slipped a 6.5″ Boom Mat baffle into the hole there to create a tighter seal and also to protect the speaker. I cut out the rear of the baffle to allow for airflow. Bolted the speaker up, wired up the crossover, and fed the input wire out of the existing door grommet, and down through the B pillar into the car. adding the rear speakers made a HUGE difference in sound! The rear speaker doesn’t interfere with the operation of the window either, since our windows only go down halfway anyway.

8) I re attached the door panel, after using a 6″ hole saw to create an opening for the sound to come through. I covered it with a grille that I spray painted. The paint dried lighter than the representation on the cap, but I was more concerned about function over form… I didn’t really care about putting a hole in the panel, because the panel was already in rough shape anyway…

9) The lock now works perfectly! Video attached:

So that was the rear. Today, I completed the front. Similar process. Here is what I did for the driver’s side: 1) Remove the front door panel (thanks again pmohr)

2) I chose this spot to mount the actuator. Before I screwed it in, I made sure that the panel would clip on properly without being obstructed by the actuator. It did, so there it went. Be sure to measure the new rod before you bolt it in place, because I had to clip off about 2 to 3″ of it for this application. Once I had the correct length, I fed the rod through the actuator, pushed the rod through the clamp, and then I snapped the clamp onto the factory rod. Applied some loctite and screwed it down. Of course, I managed to lose one of the screws. There are supposed to be two screws securing the new clamp to the factory rod, and one screw securing the clamp to the new rod. It held fine with one screw, so I proceeded.

3) I already had some sound dampening material on my front doors, so I had to peel some of it back to access the wiring harness for the front actuator. It runs along the bottom of the door. I pulled it inside of my kilmat, and stripped away some of the plastic conduit to expose the wires. Same deal here as the rear, you want the brown / white and solid brown wires. Since the new actuator is at the top, and the wiring is at the bottom, I had to extend the wires. I crimped on some 14ga cable, wrapped it up, and ran it down to the factory harness. Used the blue wire taps again, wiring done!

4) Tested the new actuator, works perfectly! The lock snaps open and closed as if it were brand new. Video attached:


5) Wrapped everything up with tape, put some kilmat over the new actuator to help protect it (probably not necessary, but didn’t hurt anything).

6) Once I confirmed everything was working correctly, I put the door panel back on. It snapped right back into place. No resistance or snags of any kind. Well guys, the verdict is that these actuators are a definite hit for $13. I mean, that comes out to about $3.25 per door. So if anyone out there is in a similar position, I definitely recommend giving this a shot if you’d rather not drop about $500 on replacement bolt-on actuators. I hope that this thread can be helpful to some. Hopefully I didn’t leave anything out. If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask.