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This seems to be common on the 2002-2003 Nissan Maxima’s. Below is a procedure you can follow before going to the dealer.

Possible causes:

  • Faulty or not programmed ignition key
  • Faulty IMMU
  • Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)

This code is usually triggered when a not registered or damaged key is used to start the engine. When the starting operation is carried out five or more times consecutively with the same unregistered key, the system will lock. If the problem occurs try disconnecting the car battery for about 30 minutes and then try starting the engine with a known registered key. If the problem persists you have to have the dealer erase the code and reprogram the keys again. If problem persists after disconnecting the car battery, try the following:

ESCAPE FROM LOCK MODE

1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. Turn ignition switch ON with registered key. (Do not start engine.) Wait 5 seconds.
3. Return the key to OFF position.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 twice (total of three cycles).
5. Start the engine.

When is the code detected?
When the starting operation is carried out five or more times consecutively with an unregistered ignition key or faulty key.

Possible symptoms

  • Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)
  • Engine would not start

P1610 Nissan Description
An immobilizer is an electronic device fitted to an automobile which prevents the engine from running unless the correct key is present. This prevents the car from being hotwired after entry has been achieved.

The microcircuit inside the key is activated by a small electromagnetic field which induces current to flow inside the key body, which in turn broadcasts a unique binary code which is read by the automobile’s Engine Control Module (ECM). When the ECM determines that the coded key is both current and valid, the ECM activates the fuel-injection sequence.

The immobilizer function of the Infiniti Vehicle Immobilizer System (IVIS) or Nissan Anti-Theft System (NATS) consists of the following:

– NATS ignition key
– NATS antenna amp. located in the ignition key cylinder
– Body control module (BCM) or (IMMU)
– Engine Control Module (ECM)
– Security indicator lamp

OBDII Code P1610 Nissan - Lock Mode - Engine-Codes.com

my4dsc: 17

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Member Credit: Paul Hallquist aka nicelowz

Some of you may have seen this in a few other Maxima groups. I did a 350Z heated and power seat swap into my 2002 Maxima. I used the 350z seat rails and all. I cut the 350z mounts from the rails and bolted the rails to a set of aftermarket brackets. Used existing heated seat wiring in the Maxima. Also had to trim the side panels off the 350z seats. I gained around 2 inches of headroom. I love them. No more sliding around in the turns. That..and they look great.

 

my4dsc: 52

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Member Credit: Sparky

This 2003 Nissan Maxima had a faulty blower resistor and as a result I wanted to look at the cabin air filter as a possible cause of the resistor failure. To see that repair please click here. The cabin air filter is located behind the glove box area and the glove box has to be removed. To do that the kick panel and rocker panel trim have to be removed. The plastic nut at the top of the kick panel will unscrew with just finger pressure.

The rocker trim panel has to be lifted at the rear edge and removed from its location.

With the rocker trim panel out of the way the passenger kick panel will now come out.

Removing the lower left glove box retaining screw.

Removing the lower right glove box retaining screw is the reason why the kick and rocker panels had to be removed.

There are a total of four screws that have to be removed along the upper edge of the glove box opening. Two in the center at the latch area and one in each corner.

Ease the glove box assembly down and detach the light assembly and the airbag connector from the glove box housing. there is no need to disconnect the airbag connector. If for some reason you decide to you must disable the airbag system according to the manufacturers instructions.

Finish removing the glove box assembly. The white vertical strip behind the glove box is where the cabin air filter is located.

There is a small spring clip located at the bottom of the filter cover. I used a small screwdriver inserted into the slot to flex and remove the clip.

Be careful not to lose this clip.

With the clip removed the white plastic strip will slide up. Then it can be pulled away from the box.

I slid the bottom filter out first and then the top.

There was good bit of debris that had gotten past the filters and I had to use a small hose attachment that I made for my shop vacuum to remove the debris.

Nice new filters being installed into the heater- a/c case.

The filters are marked with the word up and an arrow to indicate the desired installation direction.

my4dsc: 5

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Member Credit: Sparky

This 2003 Nissan Maxima came in with the complaint that the passenger front window would go down on it’s own. What I determined was that when the window was raised up, it would automatically cycle down about six inches. If the glass, motor or regulator have been removed a relearn procedure is needed to restore proper operation.

The first step in this process it to remove the door panel. If you have already removed any of the listed parts you of course already know how to remove the door panel. Lift the screws cover in the door panel pull handle.

Then using a philip’s head screwdriver remove the single screw.

Lift and remove the switch trim panel.

There are retainers at both ends that have to be dealt with.

Remove the outer trim ring from the inside door handle.

You have to work along the inside edge of the ring to release the locking tabs.

Remove the screw cover at the front of the door panel.

Then the phillip’s headed screw.

I am pointing to the rest button on the power window motor.

To reset the upper and lower limits:

Make sure all switches are connected.

Turn the ignition switch on.

Raise the window fully. You may have to play with it to get it to stop at the full closed position.

Press and hold the reset switch.

While lowering the window fully. I am holding the switch with my unseen fingers. Kind of hard to hold the reset button, lower the window and take the picture all at the same time.

Release the reset switch. Make sure it pops back out.

Raise the window fully.

The limit switches are now reset.

Now the most important part of this procedure. If the door panel is already back on, the procedure can be done by only removing the switch cover and locating the reset switch button that I am pointing to with my screw driver. If you cannot reach the reset button with your fingers you should be able to with a large tipped common screwdriver.

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my4dsc: 24

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Member Credit: Sparky

This 2007 Nissan Maxima came in with the complaint that the gas gauge was stuck on empty. Actually a closer look revealed that the gauge needle was stuck under the empty stop peg. Due to the coloring of the instrument cluster lens I was unable to get a picture of this before disassembly.

If you have a strong magnet you can use it to move the gas gauge needle into the correct position. If you do not have strong magnet or if you just need to know how to remove the instrument cluster, continue reading.

The top cover over the instrument cluster assembly is held in place by spring clips as shown in the next picture. To unfasten the cover lift up to release the clips. Note that there is a tether cable that attaches the cover to the dash carrier. It does not need to be removed. In fact I do not even know if it can be without damaging something.

There is one phillips headed screw behind the middle of the assembly that needs to be removed.

I was also hoping that the other two phillips screws were all that was left to remove the instrument cluster. They do have to come out for the final disassembly to correct the needle issue but not now.

I could feel something holding the bottom of the instrument cluster so I wanted to remove the covers under the steering column. Removing the fuse box cover reveals ons crew to the left.

It has a torx head. There is also one other matching screw under the right side of the panel.

I am not sure if the inner steel panel actually has to be removed but it is only two screws and it made it much easier to take some of the following pictures.

To remove the two lower retaining screws I used a long phillips head screwdriver and magnetised the tip. Also I extended the steering column all of the way out towards the driver’s seat and then fully down.

Looking under the dash I could see where to move the tip of the screwdriver to align it with the screw.

The one on the right is a little bit more difficult to locate and remove. In fact I had to get my longest phillips screwdriver out to do this efficiently. For reassembly I inserted the screwdriver on the left side of the column and attached the screw to the magnetic tip, then carefully slid it to the right to align it with the mounting hole. I know this takes a few special tools and is somewhat tedious but it beats having to drop the steering column and possibly more.

There is one harness connector to remove. The harness also is attached to the cluster by clip shown in the center of the next picture. I am pointing to the left lower mounting screw hole with my screwdriver.

There are a series of plastic clips all of the way around the instrument cluster assembly that have to be dislodged. Also the two screws mentioned earlier.

With the cover removed it is easy to see that the needle is on the wrong side of the stop peg.

A simple little flip with my screwdriver…

…and the needle is back in it’s correct location.

If you want to avoid this problem altogether, never disconnect and reconnect the battery connections with the ignition switched on.

This document has been composed with the online instant web content editor which can be found at htmleditor.tools

my4dsc: 11

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Member Credit: Sparky

This 2006 Nissan Maxima came in with the complaint that the gauges and the a/c controls did not work. After the obvious fuse checks I went to the most common location for this problem in Nissan Maximas.

The problem is located behind the a/c control panel and repairs start with removing the shifter knob or handle assembly. To do this the bottom trim piece needs to be pulled straight down. Some wiggling is needed.

Once the trim piece is lowered the retaining clip will be exposed. Use a screwdriver or a pair of pliers to pull the clip out. Be careful not to lose it.

In the following picture you can see all three parts of the handle. The knob at the far right. The lower trim tube in the center and the retaining clip to the left.

To remove the shifter’s trim panel it can be lifted at the rear of the panel as shown below.

After the trim plate is lifted you will find that there are wires attached to the front edge.

I found it easier to disconnect the wiring on the passenger side of the panel first. Then it can be rolled to the left to disconnect the remaining wires. There are thumb latches or locks that have to be depressed before the harness connector can be removed.

Now that the shifter’s trim panel is out of the way the two lower attaching screws for the a/c controls and the cover over the cassette player are exposed and easily removed.

The lower edge can then be pulled out and then the top can be worked free. There is a ribbon cable connector that has to be taken loose. Care should be taken as it is easily broken.

There are two more screws at the lower edge of the radio control panel. Once removed it too can be pulled loose from the dash.

There are wires attached to the backside of the panel.

Now that all of the panels are removed you can finally see the unified meter and a/c amplifier module assembly. The white box in the middle of the next picture with the ribbon cable attached.

I took a quick look at the underside of the module and saw this. Those do not look like factory holes in the plastic.

I finished removing the attaching screws for the center stack assembly.

After pulling it loose from the dash I could access the screws on the side panels. I removed the two upper screws that hold the display face in place. The screws only need to be removed from one side of the assembly.

There are two screws that I had to take out that attach the module to the frame. One on either side and the rear of the assembly.

The screws are different so I was sure not to mix them up. The screws that held the display are shorter and have machine threads. The ones that attach to the plastic module are longer and have much coarser threads.

Note the slot in the module case resembles that of a piggy bank. When shaken it rattles like there is something loose inside.

I went ahead and removed the five phillips headed screws that hold the module together.

I lifted and removed the one cover.

Then I lifted the circuit board and found 21 cents inside the cover.

There were multiple burn marks on the circuit board.

There were also burnt spots on the coins.

The new module is supplied with a piece of felt tape covering the slot. The old module had the part number 27760 7Y01A printed on the outside cover. The new part had the part number 27760-7Y01B on the box.

In a previous life the horizontal panel below the display was used as a shelf. At least for coins.

The new module installed and everything back to normal.

The motto of this repair would be “read the owners manual and only use recommended spaces for storage”. Another adage would be “When does $0.10 plus $0.10 plus $0.01 equal $400+? When you use the unified meter and a/c amplifier module as a piggy bank.”

my4dsc: 7

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Member Credit: EddyMaxx

Do you have the symptoms below:

This morning while I was driving to school, my instrument cluster just stopped working… I.E. Speedometer, odometer, fuel gauge, rpm’s, even the blinkers (though these worked, just wouldn’t get the clicking noise or the visual indicator on the instrument cluster). The odometer would show my mileage, but didn’t change at all. The cluster lights weren’t as bright during the day as they usually are. Also, the A/C – Heater system wouldn’t turn on, cruise wouldn’t work (kinda made sense though since the speedometer wasn’t working). – mattpattberg

If so, then the first thing you need to check is if you have any coins on top of your radio dash. If you remember having coins or actually see coins there, one of them may have dropped into AC Amp case and caused it to burn out. You will now have to replace the AC Control Amplifier. Most members buy it used from eBay or local junk yards.

Part Number: 27760-7Y000 (AC Control Amplifier)

You can follow the replacement how-to here: https://www.my4dsc.com/replace-ac-control-amplifier-6thgen-maxima/

Used Replacement (27760-7Y000 AC Control Amplifier).

my4dsc: 24

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