I always wanted a CMOD grille for my car but it was back-ordered out for quite some time. As soon as they came back in stock, I ordered one immediately. It took two weeks to get it which is not bad at all given it’s shipped internationally.
The grille itself is made out of Fiberglass. I was happy with the quality and perfect fitment of my 2002 Nissan Maxima. The grille comes in a matte black finish and black mesh. You’ll need to drill some small holes to perfectly attach to the bumper. It took me about 20 min to install.
In this article, I go over the process for doing quad projector lights retrofit in eBay R34 Maxima headlights. Specifically the 4th generation Maxima(95-99). The projectors used were inexpensive Mini H1 projectors (https://amzn.to/2GX9GaA).
The previous lights I had on the car were FX35 projectors but the job was not great and I wanted to clean up the look of the front end of the car. I bought R34 headlights from eBay and with some modification, they fit well (I made a video and article on that here). I wanted to do an inexpensive retrofit job that was much cleaner than the previous one. I opted for Mini H1 projectors which are the common projectors that have a threaded shaft at the back and allows you to slide them through the cars existing housing light bulb socket hole.
It is common to use an oven to bake the housings to then remove the lens cover. However, I used a heat gun to loosen the glue holding the covers. Being inexpensive units, it was easy to separate them; OEM lights are tougher because they are properly sealed and glued. I separated the cover from the housing and then tested the projector. I first tested it on the low beam side. I slid the projectors threads through the R34’s bulb hole and right away saw an issue. The projectors’ back shaft was not long enough to be able to catch any threads with the nut that holds the projector in place.
I took out the grinder and started cutting. I used the side edge of a thick grinding wheel to remove some material from the R34’s bulb socket. I then was able to slide through the projector again and catch plenty of threads to put the nut and H1 bulb retainers. The projector looked great, it is said that the vertical alignment is not bad because it is using the stock bulbs hole which is lined up somewhat. But the rotation needs to be addressed, I eyeballed it at first to test putting the lens covers. They looked great, so next was the high beam side.
The high beam side is a different story, there are two issues to address. One, the bulb hole is too small to fit the projector back shaft through. The second is that even if you could slide the projector through, it would sit to far forward and hit the housing lens cover. In comes the angle grinder again, the goal here is to cut an oval so that the projectors reflector can sit on that oval deep into the housing and away from the lens cover; a file was used too. While cutting I would test the projector once in a while and ensure I was cutting a clean enough oval to not have gaps around the mating area to the reflector.
Next was the painting, I decided to go with an all-black housing; glossy. I painted everything except the projectors shroud. First I sprayed it with a primer and then the black. Once dry I went to line up the projectors.
To line up the projectors I mounted the housings on the car with no lens cover and used the garage wall. I know its very close but I felt it was good enough. I put in the bulbs then turned them on and rotated the projectors till I saw a horizontal line on the wall. This was not too hard because the high beam projector stays in place due to the shroud touching the floor and ceiling of the housing; holding it in place. This allowed you to rotate it to match the low beam projector. Once I had that set, I then slowly took them off so the high beam projector would not move. Then I sat it down and applied JB Weld to the back of the high beam projector. I used the original JB Weld.
Once the JB Weld was set on both housings all there is left to do is to put the lens covers. I heated the glue areas with the heat gun all around then I placed the cover on and pressed it with my palm against the housing. I then worked on the electronics, I originally had HID ballast’s with D2S bulbs on the FX35 projectors. I wired in another set of ballasts, h1(hid) bulbs as well as relays. I turned them on and waited about 15 minutes to see how hot the wiring and the housing lens cover got. The front of the lens cover gets pretty hot, it is a focused beam like using a magnifying glass to burn with the sun. The back of the projectors got extremely hot, I was not comfortable at all with it; it felt like it could burn wiring or anything near it. So I then ordered H1 LED’s, removed the ballasts and wired the new bulbs in. The output still looks great with LED’s, you can see more intensity with the HID’s for sure but LED’s do not stay far behind so far.
I am very happy with the results and it was exactly how I pictured it. The front of the car looks aggressive and different. I will give an update with night time shots and some feedback.
The hybrid bumper allows 2004-2006 Maxima’s to easily convert to an 07-08 look by just swapping bumpers. Without this bumper, you would need to swap to 2007 headlights, bumpers and hood (and of course that can get very expensive).
The bumper was developed by Max2damax and was available in limited quantities. The bumper is made of RFP (Fiberglass) and was a direct fit. There was also a lip developed for it. As of 2018, it’s definitely a rare find.
Pricing (For reference purposes only in case you find one fore sale! We DO NOT sell these):
07-08 LIP = $269 shipped —- $205 for local buyers, taxes included. (8.75% CA tax)
07 *Bumper for 04-06 = $275 + $150 s/h,= $425 (flat rate to the continental U.S.)
07 *Bumper & Lip for 04-06 = $575 shipped,
*You can add a set of fog lights to you bumper for $70.
I recently installed an Auto Meter 22813 triple gauge pod and Ortiz clock replacement pod on my 2002 5thgen Maxima. The Auto Meter pod goes over your existing pod and fits perfect. I’m happy with the overall setup.
Auto Meter Part Number: 22813 (Price Approx. $90 bucks or so). You can find it on eBay.
So due to the fact that there was little to no info on here regarding the mirror swap, I decided to do a write-up on the process as i experienced it. Please note, you do this at you own risk.
24 FT Electric Wire
Flat Head Screwdriver
Metal Drill Bit
Mirrors (Left and Right)
Remove door panel by removing the 3 screws. The panel is also held with clips. Pull the ends of the panel to pop the clips out. Be careful not to yank the puddle light connector when removing. Once panel is out, you can completely detach it from the car by removing the actuator cables or you can leave those intact and rest the panel to the side.
Locate the mirror harness. You will be splicing into the harness using the above wiring schematic. Repeat as needed for both sides.
Note: I kept the stock wiring intact just in case i decide to go back to the original mirrors, its plug and play.
Once the wiring for the mirror movement is complete. Proceed to wiring the power and ground for the signal lights. I ran mine from the rear turn signals. You will be tapping into the black and green wire at the harness. Once you tap in, you will need to route the wire to the front. I ran mine through the panels and through the grommet at the door.
Once all wiring is done, you will now need to mount the mirrors.
Note: This is not a perfect mount. It will not be as clean and flush as the stock mirrors were mounted. But if aligned properly, it can be made to fit neatly. I am including a picture of how my passenger side was mounted to give you an idea.
Once mounted, you will notice a small portion of the mounted portion will need to be shaved off as it touches the mounting on the car when the door closes. I used my Dremel here.
In order for it to fit flush, you have to trim the bottom part and the little triangle insert on the opposite side.
I dug into the cluster to try and figure out why the gauge was off. All the resistors to the fuel level sensor checked out OK but apparently the joints to the board can crack causing intermittent or permanent problems. Re-soldering the joints on the 4 resistors should solve the problem of the fuel gauge reading too high.
The resistors are R4, R64, R124, and R125. They are directly below the cluster part number in the attached picture.
The total time start to finish was 9 hours but my font end was a little mangled. I had to pull out one lower corner, slide hammer and sledge the passenger unibody rail, unkink the drivers side upper rad and unibody rail, and a few other things to get the new part to fit. Ignore the miss alignments. They’re more of an upper rad, fog bucket and bumper support.
Other new parts: bumper support, support brackets, hood struts, and cross member bolts.
I welded it in either from the back through the holes drilled in the unibody during dismantling or I drilled new holes through the new support to weld it to the unibody. I wouldn’t suggest just bolting it in.
I lined everything up, bolted it in with the tow hooks, spot welded, then took the hooks off to do the last few spot welds on the bottom from the rear. There are 6 spot welds per side that are in the unibody rail and a pita to drill out. I used a die grinder with a long shanked carbide burr to burn through those. This pic shows the 6 inside: