Interior, Exterior & Lighting


All you need to do is re-pin the wires. No need to extend them. It is best to start with the M34 Plug and then do the M32 Plug.

Re-pinning Instructions

Pinout Reference

  • #20 Red/Yellow —–Move To—— > #49

  • #22 Black —–Move To—— > #59

  • #23 Yellow w/  Red Strip Silver Dots —–Move To—— > #62

  • #24 Orange —–Move To—— > #66

  • #58 orange/Black —–Move To—— > #56

  • #59 Black —-Move To—— > #57

  • #60 Blue —–Move To—— > #58

  • #62 Silverish w/ Blue —–Move To—— > #20 (See photo below)

  • #63 Green/ Brown —–Move To—— > #21

Backside of completed M34 Wiring

Backside of completed M32 Wiring

Comparison Wiring

LED Color Swap

The Infiniti i35 has a single light source which makes it easy to swap to an LED strip. Below is what is commonly used since it allows you change the color as you want. I went with blue but good to have options. I tapped into an ACC power source for the lightening.

You can read more on how to do it here: https://www.my4dsc.com/how-to-add-led-lighting-to-your-infiniti-i35-cluster-for-5thgen-nissan-maxima-2002-2003/

Additional Photo’s


Community Member Credit: Jose Vargas

I35 Cluster swap in the process, first ima swap out the long led tub it has to light up gauges and replace it with 4 RGB led strips with the module so I can remotely change to different colors quickly if I want to. Everything PNP like OEM. I’ll post links to what I used to make it perfect…

Has 4 pnp leds that can easily be swapped and for warning indicators you need to unsolder old leds and put in new ones 14 is needed

For the Auto guys you can swap out the shift indicator leds……..3mm for warning indicators,so since the cover and holes for leds is big enough im a swap out the 3mm to 5mm to have it brighter

Without OEM led tube

With oem led tube that lights up entire cluster, so as you see you can run strips

You need 4 strips of these RGB leds


Female……Pigtail connector to make it pnp to module


Module with remote to change to multiple color


Male Power connector to make it pnp, run ground to chassis and power wire with mini add a circuit with 15A fuse to ACC in fuse box


I35 cluster 80% done installed the leds strips. Just waiting for module and pigtail to make it pnp……

Swapped out the 5 pnp leds

5mm to the left soldered in compared to the small 3mm to the top right

5mm vs 3mm

Removed SLIP led so it will not turn on LED213.

Cluster done

Had to dissamble the cluster to put black tape over the AUTO indicators

5MM led clearance

Pnp connector all wired up and ready. Nice and clean…Mr. DoITRightEveyTime.

Cluster is done and installed……mission was a success…..Repinned the plugs and rewrapped harness

1 done 2 plugs left

Wiring mess

3 plugs all wrapped up

I35 Cluster & Prosport EVO series allows you to match up 4 different colors to cluster..

Community Member Credit: pmas76

The lights that I use to illuminate the clear corners are the PIAA Xtreme Whites (194 Wedge Bulb) which you can also get from Custommaxima.com. I got the PIAA Xtremes because of their recommendations from fellow Maxima.org members and the fact that I use PIAA Xtreme Whites throughout the rest of the car. I wanted the entire car to use the same brand & style bulbs. The PIAA Xtreme Whites are brighter than stock bulbs yet give a slight tint of blue.

The clear corners are very easy to install. First remove the original front amber corner light by taking a butter knife wrapped in a paper towel and pry gently behind the thinner side of the oval light toward the rear of the car.

Once the stock front amber corner light is removed take the bulb housing off of the back of the corner light by turning it 90 degrees clockwise. Then remove the stock bulb and replace it with you new bulb of choice.

Now, what I would suggest doing, is place a thin bead of clear silicone sealant around the edge of where the plastic and the reflector of the corner light meet so that you can reduce the chance of condensation build up from rain. Next, put the bulb housing back in the corner light by turning it 90 degrees counter-clockwise. Then, just pop the corner light back into place.


As for the rear clear corner light you more or less follow the same steps as above. The only difference is that I would suggest prying the larger side of the oval closer to the front of the car because it is easier to remove that way.

At Night

For a inexpensive price tag the clear corner lights give the car that euro racing look and a nice contrast from the black paint on the car. I feel the clear corners look much better then those ugly stock amber and red corner lights that come stock on the car.

Community Member Credit: Kevin Kryzda

Tools necessary:

  • 10mm socket and an extension
  • Flathead screwdriver (or pry tool)
  • Wire/Side Cutters or Wire Strippers
  • Wire taps or soldering tools
Before You Start:
The purpose of this modification is to re-wire your fog light relay under your hood to receive signal from an accessory source of power that is independent of anything else in the car, allowing you to turn on your fog lights without the headlights as well as run them with your high beams. The modification is very inexpensive and will avoid/end the problems with the “windshield wiper” write-up.

1. First off your going to want to locate the relay box located on the left side of your under hood as indicated by the arrow.

2. Then you will want to remove the reservoir in between you and the relay panel. This is attached by two 10mm bolts on the left side of the car. Following this, set the reservoir aside.

3. Next you will want to remove the cover from the relay box prying the two tabs holding it on outward and lift the cover up.

4. Now you will want to remove the air conditioning relay and the heated mirror relay if you are equipped with them. To do this, use your pry tool and insert on the side of the relay that has a clip, push away from the relay and then pull up on the relay itself.

5. Next remove the two exposed 10mm bolts holding the relay box in. Now pull up on the box and release the snap tab located on the bottom arm of the box.
6. Once the relay panel is free from the car you will need to open it to expose the wiring inside. To do this release the 3 clips on the right and left side of the box indicated with the arrows. Then open.

7. Now that you have the wiring exposed you are going to be working with the signal wire from the fog relay and the accessory power wire from the air conditioning relay. The yellow wire coming out of the fog relay is the wire you want to give +12V and the pink wire with a blue stripe from the A/C relay is where you will get it. To access the pink wire better you will probably need to remove the relay harness from the housing. To do this pry in the direction indicated and push out the bottom of the housing.

8. Now cut the yellow wire and without cutting the pink wire run a wire from it to the yellow wire leading into the blue relay harness.

9. I prefer soldering all of my connections but you can attach how you like. I highly recommend no matter what you do though, make sure to tape up everywhere you work. Make sure to tape up the open end of the yellow wire as well.

10. Now close everything up and reverse the previous steps to return everything how you found it. Flip your fog lights on and admire. You can turn them on whenever you want granted the car is on.

Community Member Credit: maxilvr06

This page is a How to on clearing out that ugly orange blinker lens within the 02-03 maxima headlight housing. If you choose to use a clear lens (and not just leave the lens out) on your headlight, I suggest you buying a package of malibu 11 watt sealed beams (P/N: ML11P2) found at home depot in the outdoor lighting section. They are shown below:

Materials Needed:

  • 10mm Socket Wrench
  • 1 Average Phillips Screwdriver
  • 1 Small Phillips Screwdriver
  • 1 Small Flat Head Screwdriver (or Something Else Small and Flat)
  • Wide/Flat Screwdrivers (as Many as Needed)
  • Dremel Tool With Cutting Wheel and Fine Grit Sanding Attachments Oven
  • 1 Cookie Sheet/Baking Pan
  • 2 Old Towels
  • 2 Malibu 11 Watt Sealed Beams P/n:ml11p2 (Found at Home Depot in a Pack of Two in the Outdoor Lighting Section)
  • Channel Locks
  • Paper Towel


1.) Remove headlight from car by using a 10mm socket wrench to remove the two screws attached to the upper radiator support and pulling sharply.

2.) Unplug one grey harness leading to the low beam and unplug the blinker and the high beam bulbs by twisting and pulling out.

3.) Once the headlight is removed from the car, remove all the bulbs and the ballast from it:

-use an average sized phillips screwdriver to remove the three silver screws holding the ballast to the headlight housing

-unplug the harness connecting the ballast to the headlight housing by inserting a small flathead screwdriver (or something else small and flat) into the opening pictured below to release it while pulling

-disconnect the large red/orange wire from the anchor point by squeezing the tip end together and pulling through

-remove the clearance bulb,
-remove the black plastic cap covering the HID bulb

-twist the harness and pull out to reveal the bulb.

-After you get the bulb disconnected, remove it by pinching the two metal pins together and lifting upward giving you access to it. (all the attatched harnesses and plugs will be fine in the oven)

Here are what the bulb and ballast look like removed:

4.) Remove three very small screws from the backside of the headlight housing (two are located on the blinker side of the headlight, and one is just above where the ballast is; circled in red in the picture at the top of the page)

5.) Take an old towel and wet it, then put it on a cookie sheet or some type of baking pan so that the housing will not come in contact with hot metal while in the oven.

6.) Set the headlight on top of the wet towel face down (no need to cover the housing with the towel) and bake it for 20 minutes in the oven at 210 degrees.

**DANGER! Do NOT let any of the plastic parts, including the harnesses come in contact with any part of the oven or the metal pan! It could melt!**

7.) After taking the headlight out of the oven, lay it on an old towel and put the headlight on your lap while sitting down so you can get a good grip on it.

8.) Using a wide, flat screwdriver, gently insert it in between the black plastic housing and the clear lens where ever there is a gap. (i started at the top)

9.) With the screwdriver inserted still, slowly move it around the housing lifting the black plastic part up and try to pry the tabs up as you go. You can also use a couple other screwdrivers and just wedge them in where the tabs are so that you can pull apart the housing without having the tabs latch again on you.

10.) Be extremely patient on this part and try not to damage any of the plastic. (because it can be quite pliable after they’re baked) Once you get a bit of a gap all around the top of the housing, get a good grip and, without breaking anything preferably, slowly pull it apart. (the sealant will still be very sticky, so if you need to, you can put it back in the oven for 5 more minutes to make it a bit softer)

11.) When pulling apart the housing, try to release as many as the bottom tabs as possible for more ease, but after you get the top half disconnected, it should be pretty easy to pry apart the rest of the housing.

12.) When taken apart, it will look like the picture below. Remove the orange lens by simply snapping it out toward you from the three little tabs. (be very careful on this part though. The tabs are very small and will probably be very easy to break if too much stress is applied to it)

13.) Center the orange lens over the malibu housing as best as possible, and use a permanent marker to trace it onto the malibu lens.

14.) Using a dremel with a cutting wheel attachment, carefully cut the lens out of the housing. (try not to get too close to the circle you traced. the cut doesn’t have to be perfect and you’ll see why in the next step)

15.) Swap attachments on your dremel to a fine grit sander type and go to town sanding down the lens until you get a perfect fit. I suggest doing several trial fits before hand, because in my case, the circle i traced was a bit too small and i ended up using rubbing alcohol to remove the black circle i traced so that it wouldn’t show through.

16.) Snap the clear lens in the same way you took the amber one out, still being careful to not break one of the small tabs.

17.) Assemble the headlight again as best you can and bake for another 10 minutes at the same temp.

18.) Once the sealant is softened again, take your channel locks and put a paper towel inside of them (so that you don’t scratch the plastic) and go around the entire housing squeezing the lens back on using the channel locks. Make sure that all the tabs are attached firmly in the end.

19.) Re-assemble the entire housing and install it back on your car in reverse order and enjoy! (don’t forget the three little screws around the housing though, because i did!)

The results are great!

This is a comparison between the cleared headlight and the stock one. A pretty big difference if you ask me..

Community Member Credit: Eddy

These puddle lights are a nice clean edition. Back in the day they use to have “Street Glow”. I find these are much cleaner and only turn on with either a door unlock or when you open door. Installation was pretty easy and straight-forward. You just need to make sure you align the LED pods so they don’t look out of place. I’ve had them for many years through rain and snow with no issues.

Price: $24.99
Item Description:
Brabus Style White 90-LED Underglow Under Car Puddle Lighting Lamp Universal
Order Link:


  • 2 x Strands of LED puddle lights
  • 3M double sided adhesive pads
  • Screws


  • Number of housing per strand: 5
  • Number of LED’s per housing: 9
  • Total of LED’s: 90
  • Voltage: 12v
  • Voltage connections: Hardwire, pair, ( Black – ) ( White or red + )
  • Wire length to power source: 5 Feet
  • Wire length between LED housing: 11 inches
  • Total length: 9 Feet

Additional Member Photos:

Community Member Credit: Eddy

If you found this post, you most likely ran out of gas due to inaccurate fuel gauge readings (or you already knew the gauge didn’t work). And now you are looking to see how to fix it. Most of the time, it’s the cluster that is bad (specifically the solder joints for the fuel gauge). Don’t go too crazy in replacing parts (you can try diagnostics procedure in this post). To address the issue, you have a couple of options.


  1. Get a new cluster with close mileage
  2. Upgrade to i35 Cluster (Most Popular Option). You will have to get your cluster miles reprogrammed if you want to keep it close to your original miles.
  3. Repair and re-solder your existing cluster (see below). You can do this yourself if you are handy with soldering. If not, you can send it to one of them cluster repair companies. Most aren’t willing to do this, so they just upgrade to the i35 cluster. It looks much better and is less prone the fuel gauge issues.

If you choose option 3, you will need to resolder the joints on the four resistors below. Over time, the joints to the board can crack causing intermittent or permanent issues with fuel readings. Resoldering the joints on the 4 resistors should solve the problem of the fuel gauge reading too high.

Resolder the joints on the following 4 Resistors: R4, R64, R124, and R125.

How to Install Aftermarket Fuel Gauge in your Nissan Maxima

Diagnostic Procedures



Community Member Credit: Eddy

My recline and power seat move button stopped working. Seems like they were stuck. I’m sure I could have taken it off and tried to prepare it but I found a better solution that worked for me. I bought two Dorman 85919 toggle switches and swapped the button with that. The switches fit great and work 100%. A good option for those who don’t want to pay $100 bucks for a new one. This costs less than $10 bucks to do.

Community Member Credit: Eddy

Out of nowhere, I noticed that the trunk on my FX35 was not fully closing. Initially, I thought the actuator was toast and I would need to replace it. When you get the lock, you should be able to hear the trunk latch engage. I wasn’t hearing.

I did some research and found a quick solution. I removed the 15A – BACK DOOR fuse for 30 seconds and plugged it back in. After that, the trunk was opening and closing fine. I may have to replace the actuator soon but at least the trunk is closing. I was worried someone could just randomly open it and take stuff from the trunk.

Hope this helps anyone who has the same issue.

If you need to replace the actual, I found the following information. Adding it here for future reference.

Photo of Actuator