Engine, Trans, F/I & Tuning


Specially made using full stainless steel construction, this ( patent pending) performance Y Pipe is dyno proven to see gains of 13hp and 14ft/lbs to the wheels on an otherwise stock vehicle!! By enlarging the primary runners and collector, removing a tight crimp in the factory piping and deleting the 3rd unmetered catalytic converter, lots of extra power is created.

Price: 295.99

Sound levels remain stock like during low rpm daily driving and highway cruising, but during spirited driving the cars sound does increase slightly to provide a more 350Z/370Z like tone

Although this pipe deletes 1 of the 3 stock catalytic converters, no SES/CEL lights are triggered. The catalytic converter being removed is not metered and the cars ECU does not realize it is missing.

This pipe is a complete bolt on replacement to the stock unit. No additional modifications are necessary and the car (in proper running condition) will still pass all known USA & Canada smog tests.

**Note** Because the is pipe deletes a catalytic converter, it is thus branded FOR OFF ROAD USE ONLY.

All hardware and gaskets are included.

Installation Instructions:

PDF Version: 10077M


Introducing Racingline’s new High Flow Pre-Cat exhaust systems for the 2004-2008 Nissan Maxima. Engineered to be a 100% bolt on, these units feature fully metallic core Stainless steel high flow cats that flow more than double that of the OEM units they replace, resulting in 8 HP and 14tq at the wheels.

Price: $499.99
Part Number: HFPC-A34

Designed as a “header alternative” for cars that are experiencing failed pre-cat units. Until now, if a pre-cat failed your only options was customizing a header set (that takes upwards of 8-10 hours installation with no guarantee against SES/CEL lights) or going to the Nissan dealer and spending $700 each on the pre-cat units.

Racingline HFPC’s feature:

  • 100% bolt on performance in under 4-hours
  • 3-way ODBII compliant metallic core substrate units that flows more than double that of the OEM units
  • No CEL/SES lights.
  • No modifications
  • Tig welded 304 stainless steel body’s
  • 8hp & 14l ft/lbs @ the wheels
  • weigh 10lbs less than the OEM units
  • Will work with Racingline, OEM and all other Ypipes designed to mimic the stock mounting setup

Installation Instructions:

PDF Version: HFPC_Install


Owner: Jaime J Dajer‎

Year: 2002
Model: Maxima
Color: Silver
Transmission: 4-Speed Automatic
Trim: SE

Highlights: This is a one-of-a-kind 5thgen Nissan Maxima with a RIPP Mods supercharger fabricated to fit the VQ35DE. It is using a R.I.P.P V5 supercharger kit that came off a Mitsubishi Eclipse GT V6. It’s also using water meth injection. It made 339.7 WHP / 306.3 TQ on 440cc injectors at 98%, ignition retarded timing set at +11, 8 psi and a 2.6 pulley.



Owner: Terrance Herrera

Year: 2006
Model: Altima
Current Color: Smoke
Transmission: 6-Speed Manual
Trim: SE-R

Mod List:

  • 1st Gen VQ35DE
  • Kinetix Intake Manifold
  • NWP 75mm Throttle Kit
  • NWP Intake Manifold thermal Spacers
  • OEM GTR Injectors
  • Quantum Fuel Pump (E85 Compatible)
  • Custom Fuel Rails & Fuel Return System with External Fuel Pressure Regulator
  • Audi/Volkswagen Coilpack conversion.
  • OBX Headers mated to Custom Turbo Up-Pipe.
  • Custom Intercooler Piping
  • Universal Oil Cooler Kit
  • Custom 3″ Single Exit Exhaust System
  • Red Lion Racing Engine Mounts
  • Boost Junkies Gtx3582r, 44mm Wastegate, Blow off Valve & Vacuum Manifold
  • Oem HLSD Upgrade
  • Fidanza Single Mass Flywheel
  • Spec Stage 3 Clutch Kit
  • Unorthodox Racing Crank Pulley
  • 350z Brembo Front & Rear Brakes
  • Megan Racing 3-Way Adjustable Coilovers
  • SPC Rear Toe Arms
  • Racing Line Traction Arms
  • Greddy Profec B Boost Controller
  • Tuned By Richard Williams aka “Dry” On UpRev


Owner: Andre Nicholson

Year: 2005
Model: Altima
Color: Black
Engine: Gen2 VQ35DE
Transmission: 6-Speed Manual
Trim: SE-R



Mod List:

  • 2012 Gen2 VQ35DE Swap
  • Rev-up Oil Pump
  • ARP Rod Bolts
  • Stage 2 Clutch
  • OBX Headers
  • Full 3” Y-Pipe & Exhaust
  • RIPP Mods Supercharger Custom Kit
  • Vortech V2 Blower
  • 3″ Intercooler
  • ID1000cc Injectors
  • Tuned on UpRev
  • Tial BOV


Member Credit: G35 Mass

I installed LFR5AIX-11 plugs.

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First, the tools you will need:

  • 6 NGK Iridium IX Sparkplugs
  • 3/8″ Rachet
  • 3/8″ long extension (at least ten inches)
  • 10mm socket
  • 10mm open-end wrench
  • 16mm “deep” socket (or “sparkplug socket”)
  • Magnetic pick up tool
  • 3-prong grabber (optional, you’ll need it if you don’t have a “sparkplug socket”)
  • Pliers
  • Torque Wrench
  • Most people would have these tools in their garage. The long extension is a must. The magnetic and pronged “pickup tools” make this much easier.

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1) DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL! Loosen one 10mm bolt (RED arrow), this is the only step where you will use the open-end wrench.

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2) Remove the engine cover. It is 2 10mm nuts and 2 10mm bolts (RED arrows)

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3) Remove the intake tube. This should require the removal of (2) 10mm bolts (RED arrows) and loosening 3 hose clamps, one on each end of the intake tube and a third clamp on the breather tube (BLUE arrows). Use pliers to loosen this last clamp, then pull the rubber tube away from the intake pipe. Removal of the second 10mm bolt located at the air box will facilitate easier reinstallation of the intake tube later.

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4) Let’s start on the driver’s side first.

5) To gain better access to the coils, you’ll need to remove 3 10mm bolts which hold down an electrical harness just above the coils. All the bolts are easy to get to. You may have to push a couple hoses out of the way to get the back bolt though. Be careful not to drop the bolts!!! The magnetic pick-up tool can be very helpful here!

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6) After you have removed the bolts for the electrical harness, Disconnect the plugs going to the individual coils. There are 3 plugs to undo. They are snug, but they come off fairly easily with just your fingers. Simply depress the flat lever section, and pull. Do not pull by the wires. Pull only on the gray plastic connector. If necessary, use a flat-blade screwdriver to help the connector come loose. Remember which plug goes to which coil. That is extremely important!!!! (They may be labeled).

Cylinder 2

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Cylinder 4 & 6

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7) Now you have good access to the coils! Use the 10mm socket to remove the bolt from the coil. Once you have removed the bolt, the coil will pull straight up out of the head. This should be very easy to pullout.

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8) You should be able to see the sparkplug in the hole. It is pretty far down there.

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9) Use the 16mm socket with the extension to remove the plug. If you aren’t using a sparkplug socket, you’ll need to use a 3-prong, spring loaded pick-up tool. This tool makes plucking the plug out the head very easy. I’m sure you can come up with some other sort of tool to do the job, but that is what I used.

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10) Prepare your new sparkplug. These come pre-gapped! You do not need to gap them, and you will probably cause problems if you do. Coat LIGHTLY the 3-4 threads closest to the non-electrode end of the plug with a coating of Anti-Seize lubricant. A small tube or bottle can be purchased at any automotive store.

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11) Replace the sparkplug with your new plug! Torque the plug to 20 FT-LBs! Make sure not to crossthread or overtorque the plugs! Aluminum heads are easy to strip out!

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12) replace the coil; torque its bolt to 95 IN-LBs and plug it back in to the harness.

13) Repeat steps 8-11 for cylinders 4 & 6!

14) Re-secure the wiring harness with its 3 10mm bolts, and the driver’s side is complete.

15) You can also replace the intake tube at this time.

16) On to the passenger’s side of the engine.

17) This side is slightly harder….only because some of the bolts are difficult to reach by hand.

18) I started by removing 2 10mm bolts which retain the wiring harness. I only removed the 2 bolts closest to the front and middle of the head. The rear bolt is not necessary to remove.

19) You will need to remove the rubber breather tune that runs from the valve cover to the intake manifold. Use the pliers to loosen the clamps; then, slide the tube off of the engine.

20) Now, you should be able to disconnect the electrical plugs from the coils. This is the same as on the driver’s side.

21) The coil removal and plugs change is the same as described above. The only difference is that the back (toward firewall) coil bolt is difficult to get to with your fingers. Use the magnetic tool to remove and replace this bolt.

22) After repeating the procedure for all the cylinders, you should be done. Make sure to check that all the electrical connectors are snug and “clicked” tight.

23) Very important, you shouldn’t have any extra bolts laying around!!!!

24) put the engine cover back on. Secure it with its 4 fasteners

25) reconnect the negative battery terminal.

26) YOU ARE DONE!!!!!

I think I remembered all the steps. This took me about an hour, going at a leisurely pace. Additionally, I was figuring it out as I went. With some motivation, you could probably do it in 1/2 an hour.

Have fun,



Credit: la_fx35


Remove the battery compartment cover and crowl top cover to access the IPDM.




Lay some rag over the batter terminals so that your IPDM cover won’t be all scratched up and to protect the wires from sharp edges on the battery terminals.

Remove the IPDM, reach behind the IPDM and squeeze the two tabs toward the front of the car and lift it from the bracket.


Remove the IPDM cover, use a small flat head screwdriver and lightly pry the tabs up while you pull the cover away from it.


Remove the IPDM from it backing bracket, carefully work the wire bundle out of the guide tabs at the bottom of the backing bracket. Spread the two tabs on top of the backing bracket and then pull up to take the IPDM internal off the backing bracket.



Credit: shralp

So I just took the plunge into my first tranny fluid change and took some pics. I used 5 quarts instead of flushing all of it.

Important Note: Nissan Matic J was replaced with S.


  • Nissan Matic J transmission fluid (got lucky and found some on eBay but most likely you’ll have to go to a Nissan dealer and pay $15/qt)
  • 10mm Socket
  • Bucket
  • Plyers
  • A friend to help
  • Funnel
  • Ramps/jack stands (so you can fit the bucket under)


1. Lift car and remove splash guard.

2. Remove the engine cover so you can get to the charging pipe behind the engine.



4. If you’re replacing X quarts of fluid, fill your bucket with X quarts of water and make a line at the water level. This way you’ll know when do stop draining.


5. Get all your Nissan Matic J transmission fluid opened and lined up so you or you’re friend can continuously pour. Start your engine (nothing will drain without the engine running).


6. Get under the engine with your bucket ready. You’ll be removing the smaller hose from the radiator (see picture).


7. With your plyers, squeeze the hose clamp and slide it farther up the hose.

8. Put your bucket directly below the end of the hose and get positioned so you can watch the fluid level reach the line on the inside of the bucket.

9. Pull the hose off the radiator. I used plyers on this step but it might be easier to just use your hand. TIP: JUST AS THE HOSE RELEASES FROM THE RADIATOR, GIVE IT A PINCH TO STOP THE FLUID FROM SPRAYING ALL OVER YOUR GARAGE!. Otherwise you’re garage will look like this.


10. Yell to your friend to start pouring. Aim the hose at the bucket and stop pinching. Watch the fluid fill the bucket. As soon as it reaches the line in the bucket, pinch the hose again and reconnect it to the radiator. Hopefully all the old fluid is in your bucket and not on your body/garage floor.


11. Slide the hose clamp back to the end of the hose with your plyers.

12. Turn off your engine and give your friend a high five or a kick in the nuts, depending on his performance.

13. Put the splash guard back on. Screw the dipstick bolt back into the charging pipe. Put your engine cover back on.

14. Good work, now go drink a beer and order some more mods for your FX.

Drain Plug

Checking Fluid Level

Important Notes

Actually the transmission holds 10 3/4 quarts. The 30,000 and 60,000 mile services call for a drain and fill which takes about 3 1/2 quarts to do.

OP what I would do is buy 8 quarts, drain the pan, and refill with 3 1/2 quarts. Drive 50-100 miles and repeat the process. Give the car about 1-2000 miles and repeat. That way you don’t shock the tranny all at once with new fluid. I don’t think the tranny has been hurt unless you track your car but check your fluid ASAP. If it is dark or brown and smells burnt, you probably need to ignore my first advice and take it to the dealer for a complete flush and fill.

The tranny fluid is Nissan S-Matic, it replaced the J-Matic and is the only transmission fluid recommended for our engines.


I had my tranny fluid changed last month. Me and my buddy did it with the car on the hoist. We used the drain plug on the tranny oil pan. Drained out about 4~6 qts. Then we filled another 4 ~ 6 qts back to the oil pan (depending on how much you drain out). The turn on the engine, with the brake on, shifting from P to R, to D, then D to R to P, each gear stays about the 20 secs to let the new fluid to mix out with the old fluid. Then we did the process again. After that test drive the car in manual mode for about 10 mins. Then measure the fluid level. If not enough, then top out from the tranny dip stick tube with a thin tube funnel.

I do my tranny fluid change about every 30k miles. The car is running fine, no issue with the tranny.



Credit: la_fx35

Perform this DIY at your own risk. Please DO NOT have open flames near the gas tank and work in a well ventilated area. As your FX age, the gas gauge gradually become less accurate to the amount of gas left in the tank. This DIY will fix the gas gauge problem.

I would recommend to do this fix when your tank is close to empty to avoid fuel continually spraying out of the fuel line as you disconnect it from pump.

Tools: Pencil with eraser top, pliers, screw drivers (philips and flat), 8 mm socket and ratchet.


To begin, remove the rear seat by pulling on the black ring at the bottom edge of the seat and
lift the seat. Remove the seat and the flimsy insulation sheet.


To remove the access door to the gas pump assembly and sender, use a philips screw driver and turn the black plastic locks in the direction imprinted on the lock. I find using a pliers is much easier than a screw driver


Start with the sender unit located on the driver side rear seat. Undo the six 8 mm bolts, unplug the electrical connector, remove the fuel sender retainer ring and lift the send unit out of the tank.


Use a flat head screw driver and gently pry on the hooks to expose the part that needs to be cleaned.


In this pic the part in the red circle is dirty. The part in the green circle has already been cleaned.
To clean, using the eraser, gently rub the black deposit off the silver leads.


All clean up. Move the floater arm to the center and pop the plastic cover back on. Insert the sender unit back into tank, bolt the sender retainer ring back, plug the electrical connector back and put the access door back.

Turn the locks in the opposite direction of the imprinted arrow to lock the access door in place. I find using a pliers is much easier to turn the locks back.


Now start to work on the send unit that is attached to the fuel pump. The fuel pump is located on the passenger side rear seat. To removing the fuel line, squeeze the white tab and pull on the fuel line to separate them. There will be a little squirt of fuel when they become apart. Have some rags handy!

If your tank is full, you may need a cup/pan to catch the fuel as it will continually dripping
from the disconnected fuel line.

Unplug the electrical connector. Undo the six 8 mm bolts to remove the fuel pump retainer ring. Note, when you undo the last couple of bolts, hold the retainer ring as the fuel pump will try to pop out of the tank.


Carefully lift and work the pump assembly out of the tank. Use a flat head screw driver and gently pry on the hooks to expose the part that needs to be cleaned.


Dirty sender leads. Again using the eraser, gently rub the black deposit off the silver leads.


All clean up. Move the floater arm to the center and pop the plastic cover back on. Insert the sender unit back into tank, bolt the sender retainer ring back, plug the electrical connector back and put the access door back.

Turn the locks in the opposite direction of the imprinted arrow to lock the access door in place. I find using a pliers is much easier to turn the locks back.



Additional Photos:

The fuel pump listed at $258.


Fuel pump sender unit circuit board.


Stand alone (driver side) sender unit circuit board.






Replacement Part Numbers

  • O-ring 17342-CE800 (You need two of these)
  • Bracket 17045-1EA0A 
  • Sender 25060-1CB1C
  • Sender 25060-1CB0C