Engine, Trans, F/I & Tuning


Member Credit: Fuzzyknub / EddyMaxx

If you eliminate your EGR valve, you’ll likely get a P0400 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Malfunction trouble code. But no worries, here’s what you need to do to get rid of the code.

EGR (What you will be eliminating/deleting)

1. EGR Block-off Plate

Buy the EGR blockoff plate from NWP (you can also make your own). This will go on the intake manifold when you disconnect the piping from the EGR system. If you are doing an HR swap or have a 07-08 Maxima, then you don’t need to do this. They cost $35 bucks from NWP.

2. EGR Exhaust Plug

For the exhaust side plumbing you’ll either need a plug for the exhaust bung or have headers that don’t have an EGR bung. The EGR exhaust bung plug is a M24 plug. You can actually buy it directly from Nissan using this: Plug Taper – Nissan (14052-21R00)

3. EGR Temp Sensor

This is the smallest of the 2 sensors on the EGR piping under the hood. You can either leave it in the engine bay reading ambient air temp or you can trick the ECM by sticking a 10k ohm resistor in the female connector (as my picture illustrates above). I don’t believe you will go into limp mode if you totally remove this sensor and don’t do the resistor trick but you will throw a P0406 (EGR flow sensor A circuit high input) code.

RadioShack Part #: 2711335 10K-Ohm 1/4-Watt Carbon Film Resistor (5-Pack)

Important Note: Make sure resistor is 10K-Ohm not 10-Ohm. 

4. EGR Valve Sensor

I removed this sensor (4 screws secure it to the piping) from the piping, left it plugged in to the factory harness and zip tied it to some other wiring under the hood. This one is a big deal as you WILL go into limp mode and can’t rev over approx 3k rpms if you take this sensor out from under the hood! Ask me how I know


5. Coolant Lines

If I remember correctly my coolant lines went to the EGR valve, out to the throttle body and back out to the return plumbing. I basically just took the EGR out of the lineup. So the coolant line runs straight to the Throttle body and back out to the return plumbing. I’ll delete the coolant lines to the throttle body at a later date and time as I was doing a LOT of mods at once and didn’t feel like fooling with it at that time & point.

That should do it!

Update from EddyMaxx (June 24th, 2018)

I performed this on my 2004 Nissan Maxima and drove 3K+ miles. No issues or CEL from the EGR delete. The emissions readiness monitors also pick up EGR as PASS!

Photo of my car (Taken Sept 2nd, 2018):

my4dsc: 451

Member Credit:  Sunday Ortiz & Gerson Flores

This is only intended for a providing a reference to the list of core parts used in the 7GM 6-Speed swap that was successfully completed by Gerson Flores & Sunday Ortiz. It’s not a how-to or step-by-step process. Please only attempt to do the swap if you are mechanically inclined and understand the Nissan FSM (Factory Service Manuals). If you are interested in getting the full swap professionally done, you can check out this post. 

View all 7GM 6-Speed Swaps using the links below:

Full Parts List:

Please note that all of these items were purchased brand with the exception of a few parts (custom & discontinued parts). The total cost for all the parts below adds up to approximately $4,522.00. You may be able to find parts for much less and save money. 






my4dsc: 2293

So you get your code scanner and it says something like, “Bank 1 Sensor 2“. So where exactly are these banks located?

Bank 1 means that the sensor is closest to the Firewall.

Bank 2 means that the sensor is closest to the Radiator.

Yup, it’s that simple.

my4dsc: 204

Member Credit: whlimi

I was running a cali spec ECM in my 3.5 swapped 99. I had 14 codes, most of them emissions related (damn cali spec) and TCM codes (running SSV4). Got myself a 95 5spd ECM from the junk yard and decided I would take the plunge and swap it into my 99. After an EU and SSV4 install, I’m happy to say that it was a fairly easy modifaction and took about an hour and a half most of which was spend tracing wires to double check the 99 FSM.

The advantages are obvious. No more codes apart from EGR (will solve this) and the P1320 because of the EU. This mod is great for those 3.5 swapped 99s looking to erase some codes. I can finally replace my broken keys without paying for the reprogramming and if I ever choose to do so, I can run a JWT or Technosquare ECM without paying the extra bucks for a 99.

Since I’m running the SSV4, I did not pay any attention to the automatic transmission communication wires running to the ECM. You might have to make a few more changes to get it to work with an auto. This write-up will work for a 5spd.

Here’s what you need to do:

– Disconnect the negative terminal of your battery
– Pull out the ECM and disconnect the harness. Familiarize yourself with the orientation of the harness and the pinout sheet you’re referring to.
– Pry the white locking tabs up to unlock the pins. I used a small flat head screwdriver.
– I removed the Pins by yanking on the wire a la Pmohr. No wires or pins were damaged this way. (Make sure the white tab is unlocked or you will damage the wire/pin)

Pin Swap:

Fuel Pump Relay – switch B/P wire from 117 to 11. What you need to know about this pin is that it’s larger than the socket in location 11. It’s the only pin that was not a direct swap. You will either need to acquire a smaller pin from another harness or use a redundant one from the 99 ECM. I used the NATS pin. NATS is pin 17 (Orange wire). Remove the NATS pin and relocate it to 11. Cut the NATS Orange wire leaving enough wire so that you can splice into it. Remove 117 B/P and splice it into the NATS wire now located 11. You have successfully moved 117 to 11.

PNP Switch – Wire colour is G/W Manual Transmission or R/G Automatic Transmission located at 27. We need to swap it over to 22.

CKPS REF and CMPS – This was super easy. All you need to do is swap the locations between the two sensor’s pinout locations. Originally on the 99, CKPS is at 46 and 47 and CMPS is at 44 and 48. We need to swap it so that CKPS is at 44 and 48 and CMPS is at 46 and 47.

Rear O2 – Not necessary but will get rid of the code. Red wire Located at 107. You need to move it to 105.

Reconnect harness to 95 ECM. (I think you can run 95-98 but I’m not positive and will let the Guru’s chime in)

Swap completed

During the course of your modification, you might be a bit overwhelmed by how tightly packed all the wires are. If you cant get to a wire, trace it down, locate it near the bottom of the harness and you can pull it up and yank it from there. When inserting the pins, make sure it’s all the way in. Most of the time once it’s in, it will resist being pulled out again.

Double check everything and reconnect the negative terminal to the battery. Your security light will remain on when the car is running but will not effect anything. You will have an EGR code. I suggest you verify pinout locations yourself with a multimeter and not solely rely on this writeup. Better safe than sorry.

****** I will not be held responsible for any damage caused to your car due to preforming this modification. You do so at your own risk. *****

Member Credit: 95crackedhead

For anyone that wants to know how to repin the harness, I took a couple pictures. First one is a side view of a harness that I sacrificed to practice on, (car came with a spare). I broke off a portion of the housing so you can get an idea of what a pin looks like fully seated in its socket.

First, pull the white locking tabs away from the housing. Use a small flatblade screwdriver or electronics pick.

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The plastic tang that is contained in the harness for each pin is what is holding the pin in place once the white locking tab is pulled away. If you insert your pick or small screwdriver inside the terminal side and release it, you should be able to pull the wire out the back of the harness to clear it. But this must be done simultaneously.

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Looking at the last pic, the horizontal portion of each pin socket is what actually makes contact with the pin sticking out of the ECM. Don’t put the pick here. Put the pick in the hole above the horizontal portion, feeling for when the pick bottoms out, then pry upwards. I had luck with a small flatblade jeweler’s screwdriver for the large sockets, and an electronics pick (Radio Shack) for the small sockets.

my4dsc: 64

Credit: Sparky’s Answers

This 2004 Nissan Maxima came in with the complaint that the transmission would not shift properly. The customer stated it felt like the transmission was starting in a high gear. I really did not want to work on this vehicle as the customer informed me that the engine and transmission had both been replaced with used parts. You just never know what you will run into when going behind someone else. First the code checks.

Code P0335 stored in the PCM. although the customer had not complained about it, I had noticed that there was an extended crank time before the engine started.

The TCM had a code P0726 stored for a CAN Failure system. In case you were wondering CAN stands for Controller Area Network.  This means that there is a communication problem between modules.

With the key on and the gear selector in the manual shift position the gear indicator in the instrument cluster shows that the transmission is in the 5th gear.

I wanted to do a little research, in that I have never seen a code P0726 before and I wanted to know a little bit more about it. I found that there are some real world anomalies with the factory diagnostic procedures. The TCM is supposed to use a crank sensor signal along with other data to determine shift patterns. The real world has found that cam sensor signals are also involved with this process. The engineers it seems did not plan on this or they did not inform the service information writers about it. Since I did have a crank sensor code I decided to start there. The crank sensor is located at the bottom center of the engine just below the flywheel area.

Everything looks okay here or does it?  Kind of strange how the end of the connector looks like it is lined up perfectly with the edge of the sheet metal shield. A gentle pull revealed that it was not fully seated.

Could it be that it was that simple. This vehicle had been to two other shops before arriving at mine. Using a pry bar, I straightened out the sheet metal shield.

Then installed the connector until the lock snapped into place.

Of course while I was looking around at the problem I noticed quite a few things out of position.

Gee, you think a wiring harness laying on an exhaust pipe might cause some problems?

It amazes and worries me that someone can actually get an engine and or transmission in and out of a vehicle and leave something like this a mess. I had to round up a few bolts and finish installing a couple for brackets and heat shields. Then reroute the oxygen sensor wiring so that it would not be laying on the exhaust.

It does not look too bad now but I informed the customer that the engine installation needs to be gone over to make sure nothing else is loose or not installed.

Now the shift indicator shows that the transmission is in 1st gear. Both the PCM and TCM codes are now gone. The engine also starts as it should.

This one will be back in a few weeks to finish going over the wiring under the hood.

my4dsc: 54

Member Credit: Kirill Savin

The air box is out of a 1999 Infiniti i30. The box has the slots for the filter and all you need to do cut the blank (non cut) cover in the front. Once you cut it out it fits like stock. The filters you need are from a 2003 Pathfinder.

This video shows the cutting that needs to be done. It’s very easy to do. Removing the dash and swappin the boxes is the hard part. 

my4dsc: 43

Member Credit: Nikky Nixmax

I was up for a CVT fluid drain and refill on my 2009 Nissan Maxima. The car has close to 200K miles on original CVT (yeap original CVT). Upon checking the fluid, it was really dark and needed to be replaced. Typically, I use Nissan OEM CVT Fluid.  Non-OEM fluid is usually not recommended given sensitivity around the CVT transmissions. But given my car is way out of warranty and I might need a CVT replacement anyway, figured I’d give the Castrol Transmax CVT a try.

Castrol Transmax CVT has good reviews and haven’t seen any reports of damaged transmissions. Also, most of the people who have had transmissions issues used Nissan OEM Fluid (so not so much of a fluid issue). Not to mention that it was on sale for only $5 bucks a quart and available locally.

Update 6/30/2018: After driving  approx. 3K miles, the car is driving smooth and perfect (especially for being original CVT). So far so good and no issues. 

Important Note: If your vehicle is still under Nissan warranty, and you don’t want any hassles should you have a transmission issue, don’t use this product. Not because it’s not a good product, but because it is RED just like regular transmission fluid. You’ll have a heck of a time proving that you actually used a OEM Nissan fluid.

Old CVT Fluid

Castrol CVT Fluid (As you can see it’s RED)

Product Details:

Part Number: 06811 / Castrol Transmax CVT Transmission Fluid

Price: $5.00 (on sale, typically it’s $9.00 or so)

Formulated with Smooth Drive Technology and premium full-synthetic base oil, is designed for most continuously variable transmissions. It is suitable for use in most passenger cars fitted with push belt transmissions, assuring peace of mind across a wide range of vehicles.

Product Features:

  • Enhanced friction durability for a smoother drive for longer transmission life
  • Enhanced wear protection for longer transmission life
  • Superior high temperature protection to effectively resist oxidation
  • Superior variator torque capacity that can prevent belt or chain slippage.
  • Suitable for use: Nissan CVT Fluid NS-1, Nissan CVT Fluid NS-2, Nissan CVT Fluid NS-3

Screenshot from Advanced Auto

my4dsc: 447

Article Credit: Eddy Perez

There was a time where 6-speed swaps for the Nissan Maxima were only available for 4thgens, 5thgens and 6thgens. After 2006, Nissan no longer offered manual transmission options. All new Maxima’s now come with the CVT transmission. While the CVT provides a smoother ride and improved fuel economy, it definitely takes away from the 4DSC experience.

But don’t worry. Those times have certainly and FINALLY changed. The 6-speed swap is now officially available for the 7thgen Nissan Maxima (2009-2015). We consider the 7GM 6-speed the true meaning of a 4DSC. It has a balance of power, luxury and comfort.

Many thanks to Darren from NISformance for taking initial plunge and making this possible on Dan Evan’s 7GM. Lot’s of hours and dedication to create an OEM-feel swap. Darren is no stranger to the pioneering world of Nissan Maxima’s. He created the FWD HR Swap for use in older Maxima’s and  is also offering the  7GM 6-speed swap as service at his shop. Dan Evans is now a happy camper!

Many thanks to Platinum Auto Works  & Gerson/Sunday for also taking on the 7GM 6-speed swap. These types of projects are the ones that fuel the community into modding their Nissan Maxima’s. The Maxima world was quiet for a few years and thanks to these guys and shops, the Maxima community is back and better than ever! So who will be swap #5? Be sure to keep us posted.

The full parts list for the swap can be found here: https://www.my4dsc.com/official-7thgen-nissan-maxima-6-speed-swap-parts-list-2009-2015/

NISformance 7GM 6-Speed Swap (Dan Evans)

Platinum Auto Works 7GM 6-Speed Swap (Catalin Vint)

Gerson Flores & Sunday Ortiz 7GM 6-Speed Swap

Randy Heinlin’s 7GM 6-Speed Swap

my4dsc: 807

Member Credit: NiZMo1o1

The Sun Auto Hyper force is an ignition enhancer, in which provides greater throttle response and smoother engine performance by providing optimal spark duration and maximum voltage output. This product is very effective at higher revs where a normal spark would diminish, specially on boosted 350Zs/ G35s. It prevents high rpm ignition miss that reduces peak power and the longer duration allows the Twin Power to improve lower RPM throttle response and torque.
The Sun Hyper Force system is the next generation high-efficiency ignition tuning and strengthening system. It works by absorbing all back electromotive force, which aids to improve plug voltage and promote complete combustion by producing higher coil efficiency. Also, the Sun Hyper Force System eliminates any ignition performance loss due to decreased electrical current under heavy throttle. Since ignition efficiency over the entire revolution range improves, available torque and acceleration response improves; this efficiency enhancement also contributes to better fuel efficiency and a reduction of harmful emission.
  • Increased horsepower
  • Increased torque
  • Better gas mileage
  • Improved throttle response
  • Longer battery life
  • Improved battery efficiency
  • Reduced emissions

This is a plug and play system , you connect the plugs from the coilpacks into the harness and there is a plug there goes back into the coilpacks.

6 Ground wire and 1 positive to the battery from the Blue box.

It flashes Blue LED light so that you know everything is up and running.

Now onto Pictures cause no one really likes reading playboy magzine.. Just pictures

Uncovering the CF cover

After these it got really dark so i didn’t bother taking anymore pics, I need to clean up the wires and mount the box near the firewall , this system was design for the 350z but will work for our cars.

If you know how to do your own spacers or change your spark plugs you can do this upgrade. This is how I would rate the difficultly.

my4dsc: 90