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How to Swap a Newer Gen2/3 2007+ Altima or 2009+ Maxima VQ35DE Engine (into Older Nissans)

Original Source Credit: http://www.nisformance.com/Articles.asp?ID=252

This article shows how to swap a 2007+ Altima 3.5L VQ35 engine, or 2009+ Maxima 3.5L engine into older Nissan Maxima’s. Including the 2002-2006 Altima (3.5L) and 2002-2008 Maxima’s. This motor swap is referred to as the 2nd Generation (Gen2/Gen3) VQ35DE swap.

NISformance Swap Kit

  • This kit allows you to install a 2nd generation or 3rd generation VQ35DE engine into a 2002-2008 Maxima or 2002-2006 Altima (3.5 V6)
  • The NISformance 2nd Generation VQ35DE swap kit consist of four main components. (2) Cam sensor signal inverters, a plug and play throttle body adapter harness, a belt tensioner bracket, and an alternator bracket. Each component and its intended use is detailed below.
  • Camshaft sensor signal inverters – Allow the stock harness to be attached to a newer 2nd generation motor and intercept the camshaft signal wires. This is an essential part of the swap kit and has been designed with ease of install in mind. Each inverter comes with a camshaft sensor plug attached. Wiring necessary consist of three wires. Ground, Power, and Signal. These new inverters are single channel. One inverter is required for each camshaft position sensor.
  • Throttle body adapter harness – Necessary in order to utilize the 70 or 75 millimeter throttle body that is equipped on 2nd generation motors.
  • Belt tensioner and alternator brackets – Needed in order to use stock alternator and belt tensioner. Zinc coated for high corrosion resistance and added clean look.

VQ35DE Engine

There are three generations of the front wheel drive VQ35DE engine.

  • The first generation VQ35DE was used by Nissan in many front wheel drive applications. Ranging from the Maxima to the Quest minivan.
  • Second generation engines were used in the 2009+ Maxima , and 2007+ 3.5L Altima as well as a few other front wheel drive applications as before. The second generation VQ35DE engine is equipped with “HR” heads allowing for increased air flow and improved performance. Oil consumption and other flaws commonly found in first generation motors have also been addressed.
  • There are also two variations of the 2nd Gen VQ35DE engine. A Maxima engine is equipped with EVT ( Exhaust Valve Timing ) and has a slightly higher compression ratio along with larger intake manifold and throttle body (75mm). The Altima engine has a slightly lower compression ratio, and is not equipped with EVT. The intake manifold and throttle body (70mm) are also a bit smaller.
  • There is now a third generation of the front wheel drive VQ35DE. This engine is found mostly in the 2016+ Nissan Maxima. This engine can be used for this swap, with the only difference being the TB pin out. We offer the correct TB adapter harness for this newer TB as an option for our swap kit.

Required and recommended items:

2nd Generation VQ35DE Swap Kit ($230.00)

Order Link: http://www.nisformance.com/2nd-3rd-Gen-VQ35DE-swap-kit-p/hrkitv2.htm

EPS Tuning Oil Gallery Gasket/Hardware Kit 2nd Generation VQ35DE engine ($60.00)

Order Link: http://www.nisformance.com/EPS-Tuning-Oil-Gallery-Gasket-Hardware-Kit-p/oilgallerykitfwdhr.htm

There are a few things to keep in mind before beginning your swap:

  • It’s easier to do this swap if you have a 3.5 DE motor laying around, especially if you just pulled it out of the car. You will need to take some things off of the old motor to use on the HR. Without this, there are a few parts that you will have to purchase in order to complete the swap.
  • Keep in mind, you are swapping the “long block” with intake manifold only. You will need to re use a lot of your existing accessories or parts specific to your car. This also includes wiring and harnesses, sub harnesses ect..
  • Picture below is what your prepped “2nd Gen” or “3rd Gen” engine should look like prior to going into your car.
    There are some specific tools needed: An ‘E8’ torx socket, 5/16 Allen key, Loctite

Stripping the motor

Depending on where your motor came from, there may be a lot of ‘extra’ pieces still attached to it. Some of these will just get in your way while you prep your motor, some can’t be used for this swap.

  • Remove all accessories, which includes the alternator, power steering pump.
  • Remove any harnesses and brackets that are still connected to the motor.
  • Remove upper intake manifold (removing lower manifold is not necessary, but sometimes desirable. If removed, a new gasket should be used to reinstall).
  • Remove oil temperature sender:
  • Remove idler pulley/tensioner ‘spacer’ (seen below in red):
    ** The injector rail may also be removed, but that isn’t necessary.

Modifying the Motor

Some parts of the motor will need to be cut somehow (tools, methods and results will vary) to allow for proper fitment and function once it’s reinstalled.

** Because of some concerns about the integrity of the stock oil gallery gasket, we at NISformance strongly recommend replacing it in this step. **

  • When changing the oil gallery gasket, this is a good time to grind away the center portion of the power steering bracket before reassembling the front of the motor.
  • Grind/cut away the center portion of the power steering bracket. This requires some aggressive cutting, but also needs some attention to detail (cutting too DEEPLY can weaken the integrity of the timing cover. Cutting too WIDE can weaken the remaining brackets that will be needed to hold the alternator):
  • Grind/cut away a portion of the metal where the idler pulley/tensioner spacer was:
  • Remove exhaust manifold studs at the rear most exhaust port (close to the trans). This requires an ‘E8‘ torx socket:
  • Clean out the threads in the opposite holes using a ‘10×1.25‘ tap.
  • Replace the removed studs into the newly cleaned holes:
  • Remove lower oil pan.
  • Remove upper oil pan.
  • Use the oil pan from a 3.5 DE motor…but remove the windage tray. Add your o-rings and seals, and install upper oil pan onto the HR motor.
  • Remove the HR water pump access cover, and replace it with the one from the DE motor
  • Alternator bracket
  • Belt tensioner bracket

Adjusting the Cam Signal Trigger Wheel

*Please note that we now offer a completely bolt on trigger wheel that eliminates the need to modify your stock trigger wheels*

If you choose to modify your stock trigger wheels, please note that this is a VERY important step and it must be done very carefully for your car to run properly. You have to be extremely accurate.

Apart from the wiring, adjusting the signal wheel is the most detailed work you need to do on the swap. It is important to be very accurate when cutting or grinding, and it’s also extremely important to assemble everything correctly at the end of this step. Pay close attention to the pictures and make sure that your work looks EXACTLY the same!

*You will need to modify your 5/16 Allen key by cutting the arm down so that it is approximately 3/8″ long. This is your ‘special tool’ that you will need to use in this part of the swap.

  • Open one of the valve covers.
  • Using the ‘special tool’, loosen the signal wheel lock nut and remove the signal wheel from the intake cam:
  • Completely remove the inner nubs from the signal wheel without damaging the rest of the inner surface:
  • Add Loctite to the flat inner surface of the signal wheel:
  • Reconnect the modified signal wheel to the intake cam…be sure to place it at the proper angle (as shown below) and resecure the lock nut:
  • Close and bolt down the valve cover
  • Open the other valve cover, and repeat these same steps.

V2 Cam Sensor Signal Inverter Wiring

V2 inverters are single channel. One inverter is required for each camshaft position sensor.

Wiring for cam sensor signal inverter

  • Red wire – 12 volt power supply ( power going into the board )
  • Black wire – Ground
  • Orange wire – Signal out ( connects to existing wire on ecu side )

Picture below demonstrates the older style DE cam sensor plug that is cut off when wiring in inverter with required wiring

V1 Cam Sensor Signal Inverter Wiring

The wiring harness in your car needs to be connected to the newer motor, and it’s not just a ‘plug-and-play’ situation. These diagrams show you the changes that need to be made to make your DE harness control your HR motor:

** THESE WIRE CONNECTIONS ARE CRITICAL. MAKE SURE THAT THEY ARE CONNECTED CORRECTLY (ACCORDING TO THE INSTRUCTIONS), AND SECURELY. TWISTING THEM TOGETHER IS NOT GOOD ENOUGH. **

The stock cam signal wire will be intercepted (cut) by the cam signal inverter supplied with the swap kit. There are six wires on the cam signal inverter…here’s how you connect them:

  • the RED wire goes to a 5v source from your car’s harness (to supply power to the sensor)
  • the BLACK wire is ground

For Cam #1…cut the existing wire:

  • the YELLOW inverter wire connects to the existing wire on the CAM side
  • the ORANGE inverter wire connects to the existing wire on the ECU side

For Cam #2…cut the existing wire:

  • the BLUE inverter wire connects to the existing wire on the CAM side
  • the GREEN inverter wire connects to the existing wire on the ECU side

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my-Y32-Y33-Y34

1996 Nissan Cima (VQ30DET) — Upgraded with High-Output Alternator

Credit: Ricky L.

I used a high-output alternator from JS Alternators for my setup. Since I’m running a VQ30DET, I used one from a ’96 Nissan Maxima.

Important: Make sure to tell them that the power post needs to be on the backside of the alternator—not on the side. They originally sent mine with the post on the side, and I had to ship it back for modification. Once they moved it to the rear, it fit perfectly.

Also, make sure they send you the 2-pin plug connector, not the 3-pin version they initially sent me.

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my5thgen 00-03

KRRZ350’s Turbo Specialties Kit on a 5thgen Nissan Maxima

Credit: KRRZ350

After spending more time with the Turbo Specialties kit, I’ve got some real-world feedback to share — both good and bad. I’m not here to sugarcoat anything; this is what you can actually expect when wrenching one of these onto your car.

The Fitment Struggles: When “Bolt-On” Isn’t Really Bolt-On

Let’s start with the bad news. While this kit looks great on paper, installation was far from smooth sailing. I ran into a laundry list of issues that turned what should’ve been a weekend project into a deep dive in creative problem-solving.

1. Manifold Misalignment

The turbo manifold wouldn’t fit over the studs — every single hole needed slight enlargement to line up properly. It’s a small tweak, but frustrating when it’s the very first step of the install.

2. Hardware Headache

The kit includes no manifold nuts. I guess they expect you to reuse the stock ones, which don’t work on about 75% of the studs. Tracking down M10 x 1.25 nuts with no flange locally was a nightmare. A small bag of proper hardware would’ve saved hours of wasted time.

3. Wastegate Bracket Clearance

The wastegate actuator bracket absolutely will not clear the motor mount bracket. I had to extend the actuator arm outward and fabricate a custom bracket just to make it work. This should not be something the end-user has to figure out.

4. The “What Were They Thinking?” Moments

Someone, somewhere, decided that red Loctite and finger-tight torque was good enough for a compressor housing bolt. Spoiler: it wasn’t. It stripped right out.

Then, to make matters worse:

  • The compressor housing hits the motor mount bracket.

  • The motor mount hits the crossmember.

  • The motor mount also hits an oil or coolant line — though that one was easy to fix.

  • And the oil return line? Yep, it interferes with the motor mount bracket too.

As if that weren’t enough, the motor mount itself doesn’t line up properly, forcing me to use spacers behind the mount bracket. That just made the compressor housing and wastegate clearance problems even worse.

Dear Turbo Specialties: Please, Do Better

To whoever at Turbo Specialties is following these threads — seriously, take this as constructive criticism from someone who wants your product to succeed.

Here’s what would make this kit great instead of just okay:

  1. Establish proper production tolerances and actually stick to them.

  2. Improve your quality control — small issues compound fast when everything is tight under the hood.

  3. Buy a 4th Gen Maxima mule car. It doesn’t have to run; it just needs to exist. Use it for every single test-fit before you ship a kit. Scratched parts are better than ones that don’t fit.

  4. Charge $500 more if you need to. Most buyers would happily pay extra for a kit that truly bolts on cleanly instead of spending days fabricating fixes.

I’m not just venting — I make money from installs like this, and even I’m frustrated. Imagine how a regular weekend warrior would feel tackling these issues in their driveway.

To Be Fair: It’s Still an Impressive Kit

Now, credit where it’s due — I don’t want this to sound like a total takedown. Despite all the fitment headaches, I’m still impressed by how complete the kit is. It includes nearly everything you need, and once everything is sorted out, the performance potential is absolutely there.

But quality control and consistency matter just as much as horsepower numbers. The foundation is solid — it just needs refinement.

Current Setup and Upgrades

There have been quite a few changes made to the kit since my initial install. I’m now running a Garrett GT3071R with a custom 3″ downpipe — a huge improvement over the stock setup.

At the moment, I’m still tuning with an FMU, but I’ll be switching soon to GReddy E-Manage paired with 440cc injectors for finer control and reliability. The MAF sensor has also been relocated to the charged side, which has helped smooth out airflow readings under boost.

I don’t have dyno numbers just yet, but they’re coming next week. For now, the car is running 7 psi, and even with an open downpipe (which makes it insanely loud), it feels incredibly strong — easily more powerful than the previous dyno numbers posted by Doc when he installed the kit.

A big shoutout to Kevin (KRRZ350) from Goodwin Motorsports for handling the installation. He worked through every issue that came up, and the fabrication on the downpipe is absolutely top-notch. One note: if you go with a 3-inch downpipe, you’ll have to sacrifice your A/C system — there’s just no room to keep it.

Final Thoughts

The Turbo Specialties VQ30 Turbo Kit is a bold product for an under-supported platform. It delivers great results once it’s working, but getting there takes patience, fabrication skills, and a willingness to improvise.

If Turbo Specialties tightens up their manufacturing and test-fitting process, this could easily be the go-to kit for Maxima enthusiasts. Until then, consider it a solid project — not a plug-and-play solution.

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my5thgen 00-03

doc2278’s Turbo Specialties Kit on a 2000 Nissan Maxima

Credit: doc2278

Turbocharging the VQ30: My Experience with the Turbo Specialties Kit on a 2000 Nissan Maxima

As many of you already know, I recently installed the Turbo Specialties VQ30 Turbo Kit on my 2000 Nissan Maxima. Since quality turbo kits for the Max are few and far between, I wanted to share my honest experience — from unboxing to tuning — for anyone considering taking the plunge.

First Impressions: A Surprisingly Complete Kit

Right out of the box, I was impressed. This is easily one of the most comprehensive kits I’ve seen for the Maxima platform. It includes:

  • A standalone control unit that combines multiple functions — turbo timer, boost controller, boost data logger, and injector driver.

  • A set of injectors included in the kit, meaning no need to source your own or risk running lean.

  • New motor mount, engine bracket, bolts, turbo manifold, and downpipe — all included.

The control unit deserves special praise. It’s well thought out, easy to wire, and performs exactly as advertised — turbo timer and all. Having everything integrated in one module saves a ton of time and money versus piecing together electronics separately.

Installation Notes: The Good, the Tricky, and the Workarounds

Oil Return Line

The only part I outsourced was dropping the oil pan for the return fitting — that cost me about $450.
The kit’s return line is a fiber-wrapped 5/8″ rubber hose, but I recommend upgrading to steel braided 5/8″ line for durability. Pick one up from Pep Boys for around $30, along with a 5/8″ L-fitting and collars to protect it from road debris.

Heat Shield

The included heat shield requires trimming to fit. A rotary grinder or Dremel makes this job much easier. Mark your cut lines first, trim carefully, and smooth the edges — sharp metal near a turbo is never a good idea.

Turbo Fitment

The top oil inlet tube needed a slight bend to clear the cooling fan. I used a $6 aluminum tube bender from AutoZone and a Dremel to shave the fitting edge — just enough to clear, not weaken it.
I also had to rotate the compressor housing (“snail shell”) to align it properly with the intake. After several radiator test fits, I locked everything down tight. Be careful with the oil return fitting; if it’s not seated correctly, you’ll have oil everywhere — ask me how I know.

Manifold and Wastegate

Mounting the manifold is a two-person job. Follow the FSM torque pattern, and finger-tighten the bottom center nut first before working outward.
The wastegate bracket needs minor trimming to allow the O₂ sensor to thread in properly — mark carefully, trim sparingly, and test-fit multiple times.

Charge Piping and Intercooler

Once you reach this stage, you’re almost done.
You’ll need to cut holes in the plastic underpan to route the charge pipes. On my setup, the driver’s side pipe (#7) hung too low, so I shortened it about 1.5 inches to sit flush with the fascia.
I mounted the intercooler brackets to the lower frame using self-tapping screws. Tip: mock up all the piping before bolting in the intercooler to ensure perfect alignment.

Wiring

Follow the provided diagrams carefully. The wiring is straightforward, with the only tricky part being the tachometer wire tap at the ECU. If you don’t have a factory service manual (FSM), you can find it at PhatG20.com — trust me, it’s a lifesaver.

Startup, Tweaks, and Break-In

Once everything was buttoned up, I double-checked every connection, started the car, and checked for leaks around the manifold and fuel lines. A few bolts needed retightening, but otherwise, the system came alive beautifully.

I drove gently for a week to let the ECU adapt, and sure enough, it adjusted timing automatically. The blow-off valve sounds fantastic — smooth and sequential in tone — and the turbo spool is addictive. It completely transforms the character of the car.

Dyno Results and Performance

Under test conditions:

  • Humidity: 94%

  • Dew Point: 60°F

  • Barometric Pressure: 30.5 inHg

  • Temperature: 62°F

  • Time: 1:15 PM

At 7–8 psi, the results speak for themselves:

Metric Stock Turbo Kit
Wheel Torque (wtq) ~173 244.3 @ 4650 rpm
Wheel Horsepower (whp) ~186 220.3 @ 5100 rpm

That’s a solid gain for a bolt-on kit running modest boost through an automatic transmission with a T28 ball-bearing turbo. If you want to push it further, you can easily upgrade to a larger turbo down the line.

Final Thoughts

At $2,888 shipped from California to New Jersey (arrived in 5 days), this kit is an outstanding value. The instructions are thorough, the hardware fits well, and the performance is night-and-day compared to stock.

If I had to do it all over again, I wouldn’t change a thing. The install was challenging in spots but deeply rewarding — and the end result feels OEM+ in both reliability and response.

If you’re considering this setup and need help during your install, feel free to reach out. I’ll be happy to walk you through any tricky steps.

The Turbo Specialties VQ30 Turbo Kit truly brings new life to the Maxima platform — and in my opinion, it’s worth every penny.

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my-Y32-Y33-Y34

Radium Engineering VQ35DE Fuel Rail Fitment on VQ30DET Intake Manifold

Credit: Nick Z.

The Radium Engineering VQ35DE top-feed fuel rail setup fits perfectly under the stock VQ30DET intake manifold when using 33mm top-feed injectors of your choice.

You can route the fuel lines either direction — out the front (like factory) or out the back. I’m going with -8 lines for feed and return and a -10 crossover at the rear.

The only modification needed is to trim a small bump-out section on the lower intake manifold (pictured).

I’ve already done a test fit, and everything lines up nicely.

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my-Y32-Y33-Y34

CV Axle Boot Replacement for Nissan Y33 (Gloria/Cedric/Leopard/Cima)

Credit: Christopher H.

CV axle had a torn boot, so I decided to try out a universal replacement instead of pulling the whole axle. The quality was actually surprisingly good — durable material and a solid fit.

After gluing the two halves together, I gave it a few hard pulls to test it and it didn’t budge. While I was at it, I also cleaned and coated the other boots with some goop to help prevent future tears.

I’ve gone this route before and never had any issues, so we’ll see how this one holds up — but so far, I’m impressed.

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my5thgen 00-03

2012 vs 2002 Nissan Maxima Engine Piston Rod Comparison

I came across a 2012 Maxima engine, but unfortunately it has a burned-up bottom end. I also have a good 2003 VQ35DE, and I was wondering if there’s any benefit to running a fresh set of 2012 pistons in the 2003 block, while keeping the ’03 rods.

For reference, the 2012 piston is on the left.

I got access to a scale and recorded the following component weights:

Pistons

  • 2012: 383.4 g
  • 2003: 396.4 g

Wrist Pins

  • 2012: 99.2 g
  • 2003: 105.7 g

Connecting Rods

  • 2012: 590.0 g
  • 2003: 589.3 g

The combustion height is the same for both pistons.

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