- (4) Terminals
- (3) Seals
- Nissan R35 GTR Ignition Coils
- Other Nissan Coils
- Some Mazda Coils
Credit: Sam Jacobs
I promised I would do this, and here it is ages later lol. This is a write up on swapping an auto 5.5 Max to a 6spd. It’s off my memory and old posts, so I will add stuff as I remember. All pictures are on the bottom!
First thing is first, you will need all of the parts to complete the swap before even reading this. There are a few good posts on the Org which cover this. Basics of course are the transmission, shifter assembly and cables, manual trans mount, flywheel and clutch, clutch pedal spacer, clutch pedal itself, and a few other misc things I will add as I think of them. You DO NOT need to swap engine wiring harnesses. If you want to, go ahead, but Nisformance actually recommends not swapping any harnesses or computers.
Onto the process itself- I found myself a donor car, so my first order of business was breaking that car down for all of the parts- this makes things easier.
Step 1. Obviously, you need to cut loose all of the parts from your auto. This includes; The brake pedal, the transmission, the shifter and it’s cable, and cutting off the automatic trans mount. I only cut it on the side of the frame rail, no need to cut the top off, it assists with the strength of the metal.
Step 2. Possibly one of the harder parts of this job for me was mounting the master clutch cylinder. On my car, I had a patch in the firewall insulation on my auto car, but no holes in the firewall itself. What I did was mount the patch piece up to my donor car, and drew a couple holes. I then taped the piece onto my firewall and drilled two holes, followed by the large middle hole for the cylinder itself.
Do not worry about having the best accuracy here, the clutch pedal itself has two bolts under the dash. But please, TAKE YOUR TIME with this. The more precise you are, the better. When installing the clutch pedal and cylinder, be sure to install the spacer in between the firewall and pedal, there are spacers out there, but might not be any new ones left so you may have to get creative. Also install the brake pedal from the manual car while you are down there. Okay, now that your clutch pedal and master cylinder are attached, you can proceed to step 3.
Step 3. Mount your shifter assembly and route the cables through your firewall. What I had to do was cut the bracket that covers the opening a bit, and then I was able to make it work. Use Dynamat to cover the hole, or whatever your creative brain desires. You will have to find two bolts that fit through the trans tunnel as the studs the auto used, no longer exist.
IMPORTANT: Use loctite and lock washers, otherwise you will lose your bolts.
At this point, you should have the pedal/cylinder mounted as well as the shifter, that’s a good bit. You can now install your flywheel and clutch, see other posts for torque specs until I post them.
Step 4. Put the transmission in. This takes a lot of time and patience, esp if you have raised motor mounts. You can look up tips and vids on installing it. As far as mounting the bracket, there’s a couple options here. You can weld it on, or run two bolts through the top like I did. I wanted the part to be removable so pick your poison. This mount doesn’t really hold the motor/trans up, just keeps it all tight and straight when driving hard. Install your MANUAL transmission axles.
Step 5. It’s now time for wiring, this is easy, even for me who hates wiring. So you will see a few methods on wiring the car so that it cranks over. You do as you please, multiple methods work!!! But I suggest to wire it like a factory car. To do this, you will need to have the REAR connector off the clutch pedal. Take one wire and ground it, and the other wire needs to go to the INHIBIT relay in the relay box in front of the battery. You will be tapping into the
Green/Orange wire with the wire off the clutch pedal. This allows the car to function as it came from the factory, it will not crank without the clutch pedal depressed. Now you have to wire the starter. The automatic starter has the connector you need. Cut it off (as well as the one off the manual starter) and attach the auto connector to the manual starter.
You can now connect your shift cables to the trans, one piece clutch line to the slave cylinder (bleed it of course), and you should be ready to start the car.
Step 6. Wire in the reverse lights. On the auto harness, you will see 3 connectors that don’t plug into anything. The bigger of the 3 is what you use. Take the Green/White wire and put it to the green/white wire on the manual trans. Same for the Orange wire (I believe the orange wire you want is the one further from the green/white wire, I will update when I can). I cant remember off the top of my head which orange and which green/white to use. There’s two of each, so just experiment a bit. I can update this when I’m with the car again and have a picture.
At this point you should have a manual transmission car! This is the major steps, of course there are other components such as filling the trans with the PROPER oil, swapping clusters if you don’t want to see the auto gear letters, putting a manual trans shift bezel on, etc…
Credit: Joey Edwin
Credit: Jose Vargas
Parts that are needed for the BOV AN setup. These are the parts I used so it can route it the way I wanted, might be a bit different for everyone else depending how you guys have your BOV and location. I bought everything off of this site, I see they don’t carry 3AN anymore but it can still be done with 4AN as well. Post links with 4AN option.
1/8 NPT 3AN Fitting
Tapping this later today when my drill bit and tap arrive from amazon
Original nipple that was on BOV it is a 1/8 NPT
Credit: xHypex, Mishmosh, and Keven97SE
(Order not strictly important in some cases)
Directly facing the IAC, this pic of the right side of theIAC shows the 10mm bolt that you need to remove to get the bracket out of the way of one of the 3 retaining bolts. That cable you see is connected to the EGR guide tube.
shows some butterfly’s installed. Pay particular attention to how the end of the rod lines up with the stopping plate (on the right). The butterfly’s are not sided so any side is fine. The rod has one side rounded and the other flat so there is no question which side to mount the valves.
Rear retaining bolt that you need to feel out and remove. 12mm
Side view with the stock intake manifold out. Key structures: Mounting brackets for the two manifold retaining bolts. EGR guide tube. Rear coolant hose. TB/CAI. throttle/cruise cable along firewall with that cylindrical structure attached to the firewall (which I removed cause it made position the new VI a little difficult).
Right rear side pic showing EGR: note the 12mm bolt and the fat washer. In the lower right corner of the pic, you can see the coolant hose. There is also another one on the other side of the EGR (out of view).
Side view of the installed vacuum actuator. Manifold vacuum fed from the Fuel Pressure Reg vacuum line down below >> Vacuum canister >> Switched port of the solenoid >> main port of the solenoid to VI vacuum lever.
Ground bolt–a convenient place to ground. (Credit: xHypex)
Relay that activates MAP switch. Can you tell which it is? (I don’t have ABS)
Vacuum Canister mounted near the strut mount (it will be painted soon)
Nissan vacuum canister adds to the OEM look
Nissan MAP switch
Nissan Check Valve connected to the FPR vacuum via a F fitting
After installing the VI your EVAP will not have a place to mount. On the ’99s the EVAP is a small electrical sensor and sits nicely on top of the manifold. 95-98s have a mechanical EVAP which is larger.
Vacuum actuator arm moves forward when the vacuum kicks in.
Here’s the FSM diagram of the MEVI
Large, Closeup pictures of the MEVI Collector
MEVI Installed on Ian’s Car
MEVI with Cover on my car
(courtesy of Keven97SE and Mishmosh)
Alternate Wiring Diagram
FSM Vacuum Diagram
Ian’s Dynoes: Dyno Run 1 and 3 were baseline runs and on 5 the VI opened at 5k.
Dyno HP & TQ
Spreadsheet with RPM, HP, TQ
CAI/Y-pipe (baseline) CAI
Ypipe with VI Hybrid
Ypipe with VI
Spreadsheet with RPM, HP, TQ
Credit: Luke Melton
ECUMASTER EMU BLACK is a universal engine control computer that manages the operation of spark-ignition engines, and is designed to work with the most advanced and complex currently available engines. It is the successor to our proven system, the ECUMaster EMU. Common applications for the EMU Black are modified race cars, passenger cars, motorcycles, boats, and stationary engine applications.
Specially made using full stainless steel construction, this ( patent pending) performance Y Pipe is dyno proven to see gains of 13hp and 14ft/lbs to the wheels on an otherwise stock vehicle!! By enlarging the primary runners and collector, removing a tight crimp in the factory piping and deleting the 3rd unmetered catalytic converter, lots of extra power is created.
Sound levels remain stock like during low rpm daily driving and highway cruising, but during spirited driving the cars sound does increase slightly to provide a more 350Z/370Z like tone
Although this pipe deletes 1 of the 3 stock catalytic converters, no SES/CEL lights are triggered. The catalytic converter being removed is not metered and the cars ECU does not realize it is missing.
This pipe is a complete bolt on replacement to the stock unit. No additional modifications are necessary and the car (in proper running condition) will still pass all known USA & Canada smog tests.
**Note** Because the is pipe deletes a catalytic converter, it is thus branded FOR OFF ROAD USE ONLY.
All hardware and gaskets are included.
PDF Version: 10077M
Introducing Racingline’s new High Flow Pre-Cat exhaust systems for the 2004-2008 Nissan Maxima. Engineered to be a 100% bolt on, these units feature fully metallic core Stainless steel high flow cats that flow more than double that of the OEM units they replace, resulting in 8 HP and 14tq at the wheels.
Part Number: HFPC-A34
Designed as a “header alternative” for cars that are experiencing failed pre-cat units. Until now, if a pre-cat failed your only options was customizing a header set (that takes upwards of 8-10 hours installation with no guarantee against SES/CEL lights) or going to the Nissan dealer and spending $700 each on the pre-cat units.
Racingline HFPC’s feature:
PDF Version: HFPC_Install
Owner: Jaime J Dajer
Transmission: 4-Speed Automatic
Highlights: This is a one-of-a-kind 5thgen Nissan Maxima with a RIPP Mods supercharger fabricated to fit the VQ35DE. It is using a R.I.P.P V5 supercharger kit that came off a Mitsubishi Eclipse GT V6. It’s also using water meth injection. It made 339.7 WHP / 306.3 TQ on 440cc injectors at 98%, ignition retarded timing set at +11, 8 psi and a 2.6 pulley.