Engine, Trans, F/I & Tuning


V1 -Thermal Intake Manifold Spacers (3.5L DOHC V6VQ35DE)

Price: 164.99


  • 2002 – 2003 Nissan Maxima
  • 2004 – 2008 Nissan Maxima
  • 2002 – 2006 Nissan Altima
  • 2003 – 2007 Nissan Murano
  • 2004 – 2008 Nissan Quest

CXJ PERFORMANCE is proud to present phenolic its 3pc thermal intake spacers for the nissan. These spacers are made from 3/8 thick high grade phenolic. The spacers will isolate the throttle body , elbow and the manifold from the block.

With the isolated areas spaced off this way the manifold will run about 33 degrees cooler thus creating colder , denser , heavier air into the chamber

Dyno testing has shown an 12 horse power increase and 15 increase of torque.

Sold as a complete kit which includes:

  • 2 – Extended Stainless Steel Manifold Studs
  • 3 – Stainless Steel Manifold Bolts
  • 7 – 8mm Stainless Steel Lock Washers
  • 4 – Stainless Steel Allen Head Throttle Body Bolts
  • 4 – 6mm  Stainless Steel Lock Washers
  • Printed Detailed Installation Instructions with Photos

Please see our testing videos using a 2005 Maxima with these spacers. All CXJ Performance products are dyno tested. NO hypes or selling gimmicks

V2 -Thermal Intake Manifold Spacers (3.5L DOHC V6 VQ35DE)

Price: 179.98


  • 2009 – 2015 Nissan Maxima
  • 2007 – 2015 Nissan Altima
  • 2008 – 2015 Nissan Altima Coupe

CXJ PERFORMANCE is proud to present phenolic its 2pc thermal intake spacers. These spacers are made from 3/8 thick high grade phenolic. The spacers will isolate the throttle body from the manifold and also the manifold from the block.

With the isolated areas spaced off this way the manifold will run about 23 degrees cooler thus creating colder , denser , heavier air into the chamber

Dyno testing has shown an 10 horse power increase and 12 increase of torque.

Sold as a complete kit which includes

  • 2 – Extended High Strength Manifold Studs
  • 4 – Stainless Steel Manifold Bolts
  • 8 – Stainless Steel Lock Washers
  • 4 – Stainless Steel Allen Head Throttle Body Bolts
  •  Printed Detailed Installation Instructions with Photos


V3 Thermal Intake Manifold Spacers

Price: 179.99


  • 2016+ Nissan Maxima 3.5L DOHC V6 VQ35DE
  • 2016+ Nissan Altima 3.5L DOHC V6 VQ35DE

CXJ PERFORMANCE is proud to present phenolic its 2pc thermal intake spacers. These spacers are made from 3/8 thick high grade phenolic. The spacers will isolate the throttle body from the manifold and also the manifold from the block. With the isolated areas spaced off this way the manifold will run about 23 degrees cooler thus creating colder , denser , heavier air into the chamber.

The intake spacers are estimated at an 10 horse power increase and 12 increase of torque.

Sold as a complete kit which includes:

  • 2 – Extended High Strength Manifold Studs
  • 4 – Stainless Steel Manifold Bolts
  • 8 – Stainless Steel Lock Washers
  • 4 – Stainless Steel Allen Head Throttle Body Bolts
  • Printed Detailed Installation Instructions with Photos

FT-1 -Thermal Intake Manifold Spacer (4.0L  DOHC V6 VQ40DE)

Price: 149.98


  • 2005 – 2012 Nissan Frontier
  • 2005 – 2012 Nissan Pathfinder
  • 2005 – 2012 Nissan Xterra
  • 2008 – 2012 Suzuki Equator


CXJ PERFORMANCE is proud to present phenolic its VQ40 thermal intake spacer. The spacer is made from 1/2 thickness high grade phenolic. The spacer will isolate the manifold from the block.

With the isolated area spaced off this way the manifold will run cooler thus creating colder , denser , heavier air into the chambers

Dyno testing has shown an increase of 7 horsepower with 8 increase in torque across the lower and mid rpm ranges while reducing intake manifold temperatures by 18-21 degrees.

Sold as a complete kit which includes

  • 2 – Extended High Strength Manifold Studs
  • 5 – Stainless Steel Manifold Bolts
  • 5 – Stainless Steel Lock Washers
  • 1 – High Temp Gasket
  •  Printed Detailed Installation Instructions with Photos


my4dsc: 32


NISFormance is officially offering a service to disable NATS security for race cars or when swapping 5.5 ECU into other Maxima’s. This will allow for making 95-01 full 3.5 swaps. With this service there are no codes (i.e. P1610, P16xx).

You can either mail the ECU to NISformance or bring the car to them for full dyno tune.

Contact NISformance:

FB: https://www.facebook.com/NISformance/
Contact: darren@nisformance.com

my4dsc: 90


Member Credit: Unklejoe / EddyMaxx

Every 99-03 Maxima uses the same PIN for the NATS. The pin is “5523“. This is the default “master” PIN. 

This means that you can use a BlaZt cable to re-initialize the NATS on any Maxima of those years. This is particularly useful for those who have to replace their ECU and don’t feel like going to the dealership and dropping $100 to get the ECU programmed to their key/immo (or those who simply want to add more keys to their car).

More Info on Nissan Datascan & ODB2 Cable: https://www.my4dsc.com/nissan-datascan-ii-aka-the-affordable-nissan-consult/

Normally, the PIN is provided to you when you buy the car but most people lose it. Well, now you can finally add your own keys to the car and/or re-program a used ECU’s to the car.

For those who don’t know the PIN, the PIN can be decoded using a software called “Nissan SuperCode”. The software requires the serial number from the BCM that the ECU came from. It will then provide the PIN. The only problem is that when you buy an ECU from a junkyard, they usually don’t provide/know the BCM serial number from the car that the ECU came from. Normally, you’d have to go to the dealer so they can decode it, but now that I discovered this “master” PIN, you can do it yourself!

The following cars all use the same “5523” default PIN:

  • Nissan Altima 2001-2004
  • Nissan Maxima 1999-2003
  • Nissan Pathfinder 2001-2004
  • Nissan Sentra 2000-2005
  • Nissan 350Z < 2002
  • Nissan X-Terra 2003-2004
  • Infinity QX4 2001-2004
  • Infinity QX45 2002
  • Infinity Q45 2001-2005
  • Infinity G20 2000-2002
  • Infinity I30 / I35 2001-2005

Video Walkthrough

my4dsc: 72


Member Credit: Kevlo911

I bet over 75% of 4th gen owners have a leaking steering rack and/or worn tie rods. I bought the 99se rack because it is stiffer. It comes with new inner tie rods and new o-rings. You should replace the outer tie rods and sway bar. bushings at the same time.

As for the how to:

  • Loosen lugs
  • Jack up and put the car on jack stands.
  • Remove wheels
  • Remove outer tie rods(I did not and paid for it  ) – You need to rent the outer tie rod removal tool from
  • AutoZone to do this.
  • Remove the bolt on top of the sway bar end link and the 2 bolts on the bracket that holds the “inner” bushing in.
  • Move the sway bar up and wiggle it out from the passenger side.

Remove the ypipe (rent the o2 removal tool)
As you can see, I forgot to rent the tool. Now the fun part. Crossmember. Remove the engine mount bolts, in the rear I used a long 10in extension to get to the bolt from the engine bay(intake removed). Front engine mount you need an open end wrench on one side and a socket on the other(or two sockets…) I supported the engine with a jack and a 2×4. If you have a tranny jack it would be better. Remove the 2 bolts in the front and rear(4total bolts) on the cross member and it will drop down. You can replace the mounts right now if you want too.

See a plate covering this mount on the rack. It is behind the rear header and is held on by three 10mm screws. Remove it.
Now remove the fluid lines, have something to catch the fluid(I had a trash can lid). Remove these from the engine bay, it is much easier that way.
Use a 14mm open end wrech to get the bottom one. On the top one, remove the hose and swap the nipple on the new rack once it is out of the car.
Remove those nuts. Now you will see the spindle, there is a 12mm nut holding it on the spindle of the rack. Make sure the steering wheel is strait before you remove it.

Remove the bolts holding on the rack now. One mount is pictured above, other you will see when you are down there.

You will remove the rack from the middle, it will NOT slide out from the sides(I found out the hard way). You will move it towards the pass side and then drop it down in the middle. You will install it the same way. I also installed new bushing on the rack, I got MOOG bushings from rockauto.com

You will soon find out the spindle does not want to go into the joint. You will have to bang on top of the joint to get it on the spindle. I used my tq wrech and breaker bar to bang it in. I didnt have a rubber mallet(I did this with the rack mounts partially in, only the lower nuts were in). Rest is the reversal.
Next you get it aligned… I still have to do this, my wheel is cocked to the right.

This will take all day and would be much easier with air tools. But I saved about $800-1,200 bucks labor by doing myself and I now have a stiffer and better feeling steering system.

my4dsc: 8


Member Credit: Sparky

Code P0325 stored in 1997 Nissan Maxima. Because the knock sensor is normally at fault I usually test it first. The knock sensor is located under the intake and is accessible on the driver’sside of the car.

Locate the knock sensor subharness connector. It is near the dipstick tube, red knob in center of above picture.

Disconnect the sensor and check resistance from terminal #1 (white wire) to engine ground. resistance should be between 500K -620K ohms. If the resistance is not within the specifications the sensor and subharness must be removed to do further testing. If it is within specifications recheck while wiggling the subharness wires. If still no problem is found the wire between the computer and the knock sensor must be checked for opens or grounds.

In this and in most cases it was not within specifications. Now comes the tricky part, the labor guides give 2.9 hours to change the sensor and it requires removal of the intake. I have a short cut if you have some tools and patience it can be done in about half an hour or so. I always try to see if I can break the attaching bolt loose with a swivel socket and extension. If it does then great ,simply remove the bolt and use the subharness to pull the knock sensor up and out. DO NOT BEND THE HARNESS . You need to keep it in it’s original shape to reinstall the sensor without any difficulty.

If the bolt will not break loose easily, what I do is with the help of a telescoping magnet, I lower a long 12 point boxed end wrench into position on the knock sensor retaining bolt. Then I use a long skinny screw driver to hold the wrench in place while the magnet is removed.

Then while keeping the wrench in place with the long skinny screwdriver I put a heavy pry bar into position to use as a lever to move the wrench.

After the bolt is broken loos it is easy to remove with the swivel socket and extension used earlier.

With the sensor and subharness removed it is now easy to check the sensor. This one like many has an external split and tested faulty.

To install the new knock sensor, attach the subharness and drop the attaching bolt into the sensor. Using a long skinny screwdriver or a mechanics finger (actual name of tool) as a support and guide lower the sensor and bolt into position. Once you feel the the bolt drop into the threaded hole, use the harness to maintain this position. Next place your swivel socket and extension in place without moving the bolt from it’s centered position. Gently turn the bolt making sure not to cross thread it. It may take a few attempts. Be patient and very gentle as it will be a 3 hour mistake. Once the bolt is tightened with the swivel socket, I usually drop the wrench back in place and put a final tightening on it with the pry bar as outlined in the removal procedure. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.

Try to solve the new Formula Cube! It works exactly like Rubiks Cube but it is only $2, from China. Learn how to solve it or use the solver to calculate the solution in a few steps. (Please subscribe for a membership to stop adding promotional messages to the documents.)

my4dsc: 7


Member Credit: Sparky

This 1997 Nissan Maxima was towed in from another shop after unsuccessful repair attempts. I am not sure how many shops it has been to. Tried to crank vehicle, it spit and coughed and jumped and carried on but I managed to get it to fire a little by depessing the gas pedal to the floor {clear flood mode}.

I checked the plugs and they were black and fouled out and several showed signs of gas blowby at the insulator seal, so I installed a new set of plugs. cranked the engine and it ran. After a couple of minutes it had cleared up and was running good. Ran a few more minutes for good measure. Turned engine off and recranked. It cranked and ran fine. Did the other shops miss something this simple? I don’t know? Cranked it several times and no problems, time for a test drive. Backed the car out of the shop and took off on a test drive. Right, got 20 feet and it stalled and would not crank back up. Kind of figured it, plugs would be too easy.

Got the scanner out and checked codes P0325 and P0340 were stored. The P0325 code is for a knock sensor and will not cause the engine to not run, so I was going to concentrate on the P0340 code. The code P0340 is for a cam sensor error. Checked the cam sensor and it had been replaced.

I needed to check the continuity of the wires between the cam sensor and the ECM. The ECM is located under the center of the dash as shown below.

I removed the white plastic cover to have better access to the wiring.

I had to use an ohm meter hooked to both ends of the two wires. While the harness (shown below) was wiggled. Sure enough one of the two wires was broken. In doing this repair I had to try several things before I came up with a way to repair this vehicle in a cost effective way. The harness costs about two thousand dollars plus installation.

I clipped the two wires near the ECM harness connector. Then started to look for a way to run new wires. My first choice would be to attach new wires to the old, with splicing connectors and pull them through the harness, then splice at the other end. This would not work as the wires are glued into the grommet at the firewall. It would be virtually impossible for me to identify the two wires at the ECM so you will need to access that information from Mitchell 1. There is a link at the top right of this page.

My next choice was to try and run the new wires through, hopefully another grommet. The problem is the only other thing I could see was the a/c drain tube. Running new wires there did not seem like a good idea. To get a really good look the evaporator case needed to come out. Recovered the refrigerant and removed all of the interior mounting screws.

Problem, the evaporator case will not come out past the glove box support brace. A very close look and I determined that if I removed the metal brace. Then cut the plastic between the two screw holes on each side that the evaporator case would come out. When reassembling the two screws would hold the plastic pieces together. It appears to me that an engineer actually designed it to be cut, if the evaporator case needed to be removed.

The cut on the right side of the glove box opening.

At least now I can see where the wires go through the firewall. I felt around and decided that I could go through the original grommet. On the lower right side, as it is viewed in the pictures below.

I have a special tool for doing this procedure. The tool is similar to a screwdriver but it has hole running through it. Using the sharp end I pierced the grommet and ran the wire through the hole in the tool.

With the wire run through the hole in the tool and to the other side of the firewall, I pulled the tool back out over the remaining wire on the inside of the vehicle.

A close up look at the hole in the handle.

The sharp end of the tool that easily pierces the rubber grommet.

I purchased a special piece of shielded, twisted, pair wire cable from an aircraft supplier. The first thing that had to be done was to loosen the shielding and move it down the cable assembly enough to stagger the joints. I did have to split it length way also.

After prepping the cable, I connected it to the factory harness connector. I staggered the joints.

Heated the tubing and shrank it into place.

Twisted the remaining cable, around the repair.

Pulled the shielding back up and around the spliced wires, then used tape to hold it in place.

I repeated the process at the other end near the computer. I then taped and wire tied the new cable to the old harness. One thing that I learned through this whole experience is that if at all possible do not pull the harness out from under the dash. It is looped to the top of the ECM and is almost impossible to get it back into place. The reason I had pulled it out was so that I could pull the new wiring through the old harness and just attach it on both ends. The glue in the fire wall grommet prevented me from doing this, so in the end, there was no reason to pull the harness loose that far.

A closer look at where the wiring breaks inside the harness. My experience on this one also convinced me to not open the harness to actually see the damage. Way too hard to get it all back together that way. Just make sure the wiring is the problem with a meter and/or piggy back a new harness to the outside of the old harness and attach it at both ends.

Try to solve the new Formula Cube! It works exactly like Rubiks Cube but it is only $2, from China. Learn how to solve it or use the solver to calculate the solution in a few steps. (Please subscribe for a membership to stop adding promotional messages to the documents.)


my4dsc: 16


Member Credit: Sparky

This 2004 Nissan Maxima came in with the complaint that the transmission would not shift properly. The customer stated it felt like the transmission was starting in a high gear. I really did not want to work on this vehicle as the customer informed me that the engine and transmission had both been replaced with used parts. You just never know what you will run into when going behind someone else. First the code checks.

Code P0335 stored in the PCM. although the customer had not complained about it, I had noticed that there was an extended crank time before the engine started.

The TCM had a code P0726 stored for a CAN Failure system. In case you were wondering CAN stands for Controller Area Network. This means that there is a communication problem between modules.

With the key on and the gear selector in the manual shift position the gear indicator in the instrument cluster shows that the transmission is in the 5th gear.

I wanted to do a little research, in that I have never seen a code P0726 before and I wanted to know a little bit more about it. I found that there are some real world anomalies with the factory diagnostic procedures. The TCM is supposed to use a crank sensor signal along with other data to determine shift patterns. The real world has found that cam sensor signals are also involved with this process. The engineers it seems did not plan on this or they did not inform the service information writers about it. Since I did have a crank sensor code I decided to start there. The crank sensor is located at the bottom center of the engine just below the flywheel area.

Everything looks okay here or does it? Kind of strange how the end of the connector looks like it is lined up perfectly with the edge of the sheet metal shield. A gentle pull revealed that it was not fully seated.

Could it be that it was that simple. This vehicle had been to two other shops before arriving at mine. Using a pry bar, I straightened out the sheet metal shield.

Then installed the connector until the lock snapped into place.

Of course while I was looking around at the problem I noticed quite a few things out of position.

Gee, you think a wiring harness laying on an exhaust pipe might cause some problems?

It amazes and worries me that someone can actually get an engine and or transmission in and out of a vehicle and leave something like this a mess. I had to round up a few bolts and finish installing a couple for brackets and heat shields. Then reroute the oxygen sensor wiring so that it would not be laying on the exhaust.

It does not look too bad now but I informed the customer that the engine installation needs to be gone over to make sure nothing else is loose or not installed.

Now the shift indicator shows that the transmission is in 1st gear. Both the PCM and TCM codes are now gone. The engine also starts as it should.

This one will be back in a few weeks to finish going over the wiring under the hood.

Learn the solution of the Rubiks Cube and measure your solution times with the online timer.

my4dsc: 18


Member Credit: EddyMaxx

In the process of installing my supercharger (which runs of alternator), I decided to upgrade my OEM alternator to a DC Power 270 Amp Alternator. The OEM alternator is 110 amps. I paid $300 bucks for the DC 270 Amp Alternator. They usually go for $600+ according to the DC Power website.

The DC Power alternator was a direct fit to my 2004 6thgen Maxima. The installation was also straight-forward. I also did the “BIG 3” and upgraded all the wires to 1/0 gauge. This included the grounds and charge wire. I upgraded my battery to a Northstar AGM31 as well (but will save that for another post).

Please keep in mind the factory cables weren’t designed to handle the power of a higher-output alternator, and can restrict the flow of electricity (or cause cables to fry up). The “BIG 3” upgraded is highly recommended.


  • 2002 -2006 Nissan Altima 3.5L V6 VQ35DE
  • 2004 -2008 Nissan Maxima 3.5L V6 VQ35DE

Installation Photos:

OEM Alternator

DC Power Alternator vs OEM Alternator 

Perfect Fitment

Additional Reference Photos: Name: P1020432.jpg Views: 21 Size: 103.6 KB

 Alternator Specs
Mounting Type Direct fit to OEM Mounting
Output Voltage 14.8
Idle Amperage 200
Hot Idle Amperage @ 200ºF 180
Max Amperage 270
Hot Max Amperage @ 200ºF 250
Pulley 6 Groove Hard Anodized 6061 Billet Aluminum
Doesn’t affect vehicles PCM, Check Engine Light or Charge Light Yes – w/ Supplied Adapter Harness
SKU 13940-270-XP
Stator Configuration 6 Phase Hairpin
Average A/C Ripple Current 3 Amps
Positive Output Stud Size 8MM x 1.25 Copper
Temperature Compensation Yes with 3-Step Thermal Protection
Rectifier 12 50 amp press fit diodes
Rectifier Heatsink Aluminum

my4dsc: 51


NISformance is now offering the VQ35DE SSIM Gutted Manifold Service.

What is a SSIM? Originally innovated by SR20DEN (from maxima.org) its a stock VQ35DE upper intake manifold from 2002 2006 Maximas. Where the inside of the manifold shelf that splits the runners is removed. This has been proven to increase both horsepower and torque above 6000 rpm. A must have for making top end power. It does remove the stock vias so there are some low end losses between 2.5-4K rpm.

This is a SERVICE and you MUST send in parts! 


  • Upper Manifold and elbow SSIM = $150
  • Stock vias to block off plate = $10
  • Lower intake porting = $40

Why are we offering this service now? We have had many community members wanting us to do the service. We also offer lower intake manifold porting. We also have a few key benefits with our SSIM service.

  • Completely clean the manifold inside and out. This means when you receive your NISformance SSIM there are no shavings inside that need to be cleaned out (saves a lot of time during install).
  • We make sure there are no cracks in the manifold, as this can happen during removal, or damaged in shipping.
  • Mating surfaces are sanded and ready for installation either with oem gaskets, or gray RTV. That means no powder coating or paint all over the mating surface further saving you time during installation!
  • Throttle body coolant pipes are removed. This makes for a cleaner looking engine bay when bypassing the 2 coolant lines that go to the tb flange.
  • Block off plate, if you have a stock vias plate we can simply cut it and weld it up to make a block off plate. (saves money)
  • Porting on the intake runners

my4dsc: 32