Big shout to Rico for spending countless hours in finding a cost-effective solution to coilpacks for the VQ35DE engine. This also works on other models and years.
For those that don’t know, Audi coilpacks are stronger and better than Nissan coilpacks. They add better mpg and more HP/TQ. It works on bone stock vehicles or highly modified vehicles. Just rewire the OEM pigtails to Audi pigtails, plug it in and play!
Audi R8 Coil Pack Advantages:
50,000 volts compared to Nissans/Infiniti 30,000 volts.
Some measure it with Kv so Nissans coils put out 21Kv while VW coils put out 30Kv
Quicker Heat dissipation. (Because of its metal body construction it can quickly dissipate heat. Nissan OEM body is made out of rubber that isolates heat instead of disperses it.)
More complete burn of the fuel mixture compared to OEM Nissan which equals to better MPG.
Idle Stability Improved
NO CEL (Check Engine Lights)
BEST PART ABOUT THEM IS THEY ARE CHEAPER $$$ than Nissan OEM yet they are much better.
Looks 10000% Cooler than OEM Coilpacks
Now the coil packs price varies due to different name brands. They range from $132-$216 for a V6 engine. Below is the link of the coil packs below so you can see the prices and brands. Doesn’t matter which brand you use, I’ve tested them all and they all make the same exact power.
Installed a 2003 Nissan Maxima (Credit: Altaf Rahaman)
The 02-08 DE Manifold requires NWP spacers.
The 2nd Gen Engine does not require spacers. Straight plug-n-play.
You can also purchase the adapters directly from Rico as well.
Additional Feedback/ Reference: Rob Tilley
Finally got my R8 coils installed today and I must say it was definitely worth the time and money I spent. I installed them on my turbo 350z running 15psi with #7 plugs. Car runs so much smoother, especially under boost. It’s a totally different car. I used o2 plugs from a 02/03 Maxima to make the adapters for the plug. Just have to file down the alignment guide on the outside of the blue connector.
If you’re splicing directly (Courtesy of Jerome Fenwick)
Nissan OEM Coilpack vs Audi R8 Price Difference (Courtesy of EddyMaxx)
I feel the idle is smoother and the throttle response is definitely better. I want to say I can feel a difference after adjusting a few fuel points on my AFC. Overall, I do like them and feel it was worth it. They are also an alternative to buying aftermarket coilpacks or standard Nissan OEM coilpacks.
Important Note: On the VQ35DE (2002-2008), you will need to use NWP Spacers for the Coil Packs to sit properly. The Gen2 VQ35DE (2009+) do not require spacers. You will also need the adapters to plug them in or make your own by splicing directly.
I bought the kit from my cousin who bought a SC’ed 96 from another member here. It’s a Stillen V1 plate and V1 supercharger. Instead of the Trex fuel pump and pressure switch, it has a Walbro in-tank pump. It also has an AFPR along with the FMU. I used my rail-mounted AFPR instead. It had a CAI but I chose not to install that right now.
Lots of time was spent cleaning, painting and sourcing parts to install it. I went through everything except for the SC itself. I’ll rebuild it over the winter or swap it for a V2. It’s too loud for my liking. My car has the stock exhaust so I hear all sorts of new noises. Da whistles go WOOO-WOOOO.
There were a few minor issues. The belt I bought was too long. I got a K060705 without checking the car which had a destroyed K060696. I have a K060695 now. I used the 95-96 IATS so some soldering was needed. Having the 00vi made it a bit more complicated. An extra tube and coupler I had actually fit perfect. Routing the relocated IACV was fiddly.
I’m anal as can be. Saying I took my time is an understatement. I mean really, I extended the MAFS power wire with the same wire from another harness. I also swapped the bolts for studs on the thermostat just so the gasket was easier to install. I mean who does that?!
Alright enough with the talking, on to the pictures.
The car as advertised in 2016.
As it was dropped off to me.
Reinstalled onto mine. In before someone says that filter is small, it’s from the 350z Vortech kit.
AFPR and FMU, the hoses were a mess.
Not much of a looker. What a strange oil feed line.
This will allow you to add a new style maxima (2004+) Mass Airflow Sensor to your 1995-2003 Nissan Maxima. For example, the newer MAF sensor is pretty much the same as 90% of the newer Nissan Models. Much cheaper and easier to find. You just need to be sure you also use the newer MAF housing when installed this.
Pin 1 – Blank Pin 2 – +12v power Pin 3 – MAF GND Pin 4 – MAF signal Pin 5 – IAT signal Pin 6 – IAT GND
1 can of Carb cleaner (I find Berrymans B12 to work fastest)
New throttle body gasket
New IAC Valve Gasket (dealer only)
Step 1: Disconnect battery. unclip airbox, unplug MAF Sensor, use pliers to slide clamps holding hoses to airbox down and slide off hoses, use flathead or 8mm socket to loosen clamp holding air tube to throttle Body, remove 10mm socket on side of airbox holding it down and remove air intake assembly.
Step 2: Move the throttle to fully open position, lift throttle cables one at a time forward and wiggle out of the TB (towards the left of the TB). Unplug 2 Throttle Position Sensor Plugs.
Step 3: Remove the 4 12mm bolts holding the TB to the plenum
Step 4: On the bottom of the TB there will either be 2 or 3 hoses attached. use pliers to slide clamps down and remove hoses. make sure your radiator cap is still on or engine coolant will start to flow out. If hoses have seized on, use a flathead to pry the top and break the seal.
Step 5: Remove throttle body. scrape old gasket from both surfaces. clean entire butterfly plate (both faces) and cylinder. there should be no black when done. use only throttle body cleaner as carb cleaner will remove teflon coating which can later lead to faster corrosion and/or deposit formation
Step 6: Locate IAC Valve (triangular unit bolted to the driver’s side of the plenum right in front of the firewall with a large hose that was connected to the air intake assembly) unplug all 4 plugs.
Step 7: Remove 10mm bolt holding EGR Temp Sensor plug to the IAC Valve. (hard to see so you may have to feel around the firewall side for it) It is the only plug of the 4 not directly attached to the IAC Valve body
Step 8: Remove 3 12mm bolts holding IAC Valve to the plenum and remove IAC Valve. Remove old gasket (no need for scraping as it is a metal gasket).
Step 9: Spray/wipe the entire inside of the triangular face clean. Spray the inside of the brass housing clean of all deposits. spray base of Idle screw clean to ensure no carbon deposits remain. Be liberal with the spray.
Step 10: Replace gaskets and reassemble in reverse order. make sure when attaching the air tube to the TB you tighten the clamp. a loose clamp = a small vacuum leak that probably can’t be heard but will be felt (high idle).
Before reassembling, some like to spray remaining throttle body cleaner/carb cleaner into the plenum to clean it up. This is usually a waste of time since oil coming from the PCV will quickly muck it up again but pooled cleaner may help clean downstream intake when you start it back up. not enough to make a big difference but hey. If you do this, don’t be alarmed by the blue smoke at startup (oil and sludge being burned off). Start the car, take it for a short run to blow any remaining cleaner out and you are done.
I cleaned my MAF, TB, IACV, and EGR guide tube last week after some extensive research here on the org. I felt like none of the threads included directions for a total newb to do everything. Doing everything at the same time makes sense b/c if you’re gonna get to the EGR, might as well attack everything else while you’re at it so here it is. My car is a 1999 Infiniti i30t, your car might vary slightly in terms of hoses, tubes, and plugs.
1st off, what you’re gonna need:
Tools: – 3/4 racket – 8, 10 socket wrenches – 3″ and 6″ socket extensions – 12mm deep socket – 12mm box-end wrench (for getting at the lower rear nut of EGR guide tube – Flat screwdriver – Pliers – paperclips – the type that is in an “X” since they’re the biggest – Large Phillips screwdriver – Hacksaw blade
Consumables: – Lower EGR guide tube gasket part # 14722-38u02 $5.86 (Connell Nissan prob rip me off) – Upper EGR guide tube gasket part # 14722-38u01 $3.75 (@OC Nissan in Garden Grove) – IACV gasket part # 23785-AD100 $3.88 – TB gasket part # 16175-31u01 $3.65
What they look like:
The brush is a heater chute cleaner, but I didn’t know the EGR guide tube was only the size of a finger
Here’s a picture of the engine bay labeled for future reference:
Steps – Airbox: – use 10mm box ends to remove Neg battery terminal and then positive – disconnect MAF – detach hoses on airbox (next to the “MAF sensor” label in pic) – Undo the 4 clips holding the box w/ the air filter not shown in pic – use pliers to slide airbox hose clamps off – squeeze them all the way will make them slide a lot easier – Pull of the 2 big hose and a small hose (tubing really) – Loosen the big hose clamp next to the throttle body – Lift airbox out
It should look like this:
notice you can see one of the large airbox hoses and the rubber tubing
Throttle Body Removal: – Disconnect cables to throttle body – Disconnect the 2 throttle position sensor (TPS) plugs – Disconnect the plug on top of throttle body and detach it from the metal bracket (picture above shows it already detached) – Use your 12mm socket to unscrew the 4 bolts holding the TB – Pull TB up, there should be 2 or 3 coolant hoses attached to it, undo them – Remove any residue of the old gasket – Optional – fabricate and clip like this to hold the throttle plate open
IACV: – Remove the 3 electrical (in my case) plugs to the IACV – Remove the bracket that holds the rearmost plug – screw bolt back on IACV to prevent loss – use 12mm sockets to remove the 3 bolts that hold the IACV – Pull IACV off and remove gasket if it sticks. Your engine bay should look like this now
EGR Guide Tube Removal: – Unclip the large coolant hose clip (2 pictures up) with a flat head screwdriver – Locate EGR guide tube – it is attached to the plug whose bracket you just removed – Locate the lower rear stud of the EGR guide tube not be confused with the EGR tube that is located forward left of it – Hacksaw the non-threaded part of the stud off (you need ~ 3mm off of it to get egr guide tube out), this is for me the most painful step as I had to do it with a hacksaw blade – can’t fit a whole hacksaw in there – leave the 2 upper EGR bolts alone – it’ll make removing the lower ends easier – Get in with your 12mm box end to undo the nut – you’ll likely only get one wrench tooth position’s worth of rotation each stroke but it comes out fast, you can turn it with fingers – Carefully remove the nut and 2 washers 1 by one as not to drop it – Use your 12mm deep socket to remove front lower nut of EGR guide tube – Also remove the nut and 2 washers one by one – Use your 12mm socket to remove the 2 upper bolts of the EGR guide tube – Pull EGR guide tube off – Remove gaskets with flathead if needed – my lower one was quite stuck, spray it w/ carb cleaner
Here’s a pic of how I attacked the lower front nut of EGR guide tube:
At this point, your biggest problems are over, you just have to clean the parts and reinstall them. Use the TB cleaner on intake, TB, and stuff attached to it, MAF cleaner for MAF, and carb cleaner for everything else. There are 3 things to take off of the parts you have for as easy thorough clean:
– IACV – remove the little drum that’s held on by 3 screws – TB – remove the large hose so that the MAF is closer to get to – EGR guide tube – remove temperature sensor to clean and clean out all orifices
Cleaning Tips: – Use a knife and straightened paperclips along with carb cleaner to clean our EGR guide tube – Toothbrush works well for cleaning TB and IACV, but it scrubs away from you or you’ll get dirty
Here’s a clean EGR guide tube for kicks:
When you’ve put everything together again, it’s time to adjust idle speed: – Warm your engine up to operating temperature – Unplug the 2 TPS plugs in the 1st engine pic – Turn black idle speed adjustment screw on the IACV, in the pic right under IlyaK’s post (also in 1st engine pic), clockwise to lower idle speed and CC to elevate it
Troubleshooting: – I have heard that if you forget a vacuum hose, you will get high RPM idle – I forgot to tighten the large EGR tube (the one I mentioned “not to be confused with”), it also gave me high RPM idle and excessive engine compartment heat – coolant temp reads normal though
Member Credit: joesae01max & Calvin Cross (Install Pics)
So I bought a Megan test pipe from a fellow .org member and let me tell you the Fitment was HORRIBLE. It was like 1″ longer than OEM. I was not pleased with it at all. I remember someone here used a 240sx test pipe and it was the same exact size as OEM. So sure enough, I looked it up and its 12 3/8th”. I ordered it that same day off eBay and got it yesterday. IT fit Like a glove.
Here are some pics for comparison to help anyone out. Left is 240sx 3″ Pipe……..middle is Cattman Fastcat……..Right is the Dreaded oversized Megan Test Pipe.
Notice how the 240 pipe is the same exact size as the Cattman fast cat. This is the test pipe on eBay. The pricing will vary from time to time. We’ve seen them anywhere between $40 and $60 bucks.
Our 2009 7thgen Nissan Maxima threw code P0075 – Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit (Bank 1). Bank 1 is the location closest to the Firewall. The first thing to always do is to check the connectors and harness to see if it’s broken or has any exposed wiring. Upon inspection, I discovered one of the wires to the plug was broken. This likely happened when our belt shredded one day during the winter.
The good news is that it was an easy fix. We jacked up the car, removed passenger side wheel and unclipped the connector. We brought the connector to the top of the engine where we re-wired and unified the connections. Very simple!
Below is how the harness looked.
This is where it plugs into:
Yay, CEL free again! Just in time for annual NYC car inspection.
From Nissan FSM:
Intake valve timing control solenoid valve is activated by ON/OFF pulse duty (ratio) signals from the ECM. The intake valve timing control solenoid valve changes the oil amount and direction of flow via the intake valve timing control unit or stops the oil flow. The longer pulse width advances valve angle. The shorter pulse width retards valve angle. When ON and OFF pulse widths become equal, the solenoid valve stops oil pressure flow to fix the intake valve angle at the control position.