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Engine, Trans, F/I & Tuning

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Member Credit: EddyMaxx

Adding some helpful information regarding this code P1706. The sensor was broken and I almost couldn’t find it. Replacing the sensor resolved the code. I ran into this issue and decided to document my findings for anyone needing to troubleshoot this.

P1706 Nissan DTC: Park Neutral Position Switch Circuit Malfunction

The Nissan park neutral position sensor / PNP switch is designed to detect when the shift lever is in neutral or park. If the shift lever is in another gear, the park neutral position switch will not allow electricity to pass from the battery to the starter. A P1706 OBDII code indicates that there is a malfunction with either the switch itself or the wiring connected to it.

Symptoms

  • Inability to start the engine
  • Engine will start with the shift lever is in neutral but not Park
  • Engine will start in any gear

Causes

  • Damaged wiring or connectors
  • Failed park neutral position switch

How to Diagnose the Code?

The best way to diagnose a P1706 OBD2 trouble code is to carefully inspect the wiring and connectors leading from the switch itself to the main wiring harness. If no issues are found, the switch itself will have to be tested and possibly replaced.

Automatic Transmission Switch

Part Desc: Neutral Position Switch
Part Number: 31918-3AX01
OEM Price: Around $20-25 Bucks

6-Speed Manual Transmission (2003 Nissan Maxima)

Part Desc: Neutral Position Switch
Part Number: 32006-6J00A
OEM Price: Around $15 Bucks

The wires are Green/White and Black for the Switch.

Don’t confuse the above sensor with the blue one which is your reverse lights sensor. It has a Green/White and Orange Wire. Photo’s below:

Factory Service Manual Sections (Engine Control EC Section)

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Member Credit: G35 Mass

I installed LFR5AIX-11 plugs.

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First, the tools you will need:

  • 6 NGK Iridium IX Sparkplugs
  • 3/8″ Rachet
  • 3/8″ long extension (at least ten inches)
  • 10mm socket
  • 10mm open-end wrench
  • 16mm “deep” socket (or “sparkplug socket”)
  • Magnetic pick up tool
  • 3-prong grabber (optional, you’ll need it if you don’t have a “sparkplug socket”)
  • Pliers
  • Torque Wrench
  • Most people would have these tools in their garage. The long extension is a must. The magnetic and pronged “pickup tools” make this much easier.

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1) DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL! Loosen one 10mm bolt (RED arrow), this is the only step where you will use the open-end wrench.

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2) Remove the engine cover. It is 2 10mm nuts and 2 10mm bolts (RED arrows)

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3) Remove the intake tube. This should require the removal of (2) 10mm bolts (RED arrows) and loosening 3 hose clamps, one on each end of the intake tube and a third clamp on the breather tube (BLUE arrows). Use pliers to loosen this last clamp, then pull the rubber tube away from the intake pipe. Removal of the second 10mm bolt located at the air box will facilitate easier reinstallation of the intake tube later.

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4) Let’s start on the driver’s side first.

5) To gain better access to the coils, you’ll need to remove 3 10mm bolts which hold down an electrical harness just above the coils. All the bolts are easy to get to. You may have to push a couple hoses out of the way to get the back bolt though. Be careful not to drop the bolts!!! The magnetic pick-up tool can be very helpful here!
Front:

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Middle:

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Rear:

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6) After you have removed the bolts for the electrical harness, Disconnect the plugs going to the individual coils. There are 3 plugs to undo. They are snug, but they come off fairly easily with just your fingers. Simply depress the flat lever section, and pull. Do not pull by the wires. Pull only on the gray plastic connector. If necessary, use a flat-blade screwdriver to help the connector come loose. Remember which plug goes to which coil. That is extremely important!!!! (They may be labeled).

Cylinder 2

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Cylinder 4 & 6

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7) Now you have good access to the coils! Use the 10mm socket to remove the bolt from the coil. Once you have removed the bolt, the coil will pull straight up out of the head. This should be very easy to pullout.

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8) You should be able to see the sparkplug in the hole. It is pretty far down there.

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9) Use the 16mm socket with the extension to remove the plug. If you aren’t using a sparkplug socket, you’ll need to use a 3-prong, spring loaded pick-up tool. This tool makes plucking the plug out the head very easy. I’m sure you can come up with some other sort of tool to do the job, but that is what I used.

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10) Prepare your new sparkplug. These come pre-gapped! You do not need to gap them, and you will probably cause problems if you do. Coat LIGHTLY the 3-4 threads closest to the non-electrode end of the plug with a coating of Anti-Seize lubricant. A small tube or bottle can be purchased at any automotive store.

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11) Replace the sparkplug with your new plug! Torque the plug to 20 FT-LBs! Make sure not to crossthread or overtorque the plugs! Aluminum heads are easy to strip out!

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12) replace the coil; torque its bolt to 95 IN-LBs and plug it back in to the harness.

13) Repeat steps 8-11 for cylinders 4 & 6!

14) Re-secure the wiring harness with its 3 10mm bolts, and the driver’s side is complete.

15) You can also replace the intake tube at this time.

16) On to the passenger’s side of the engine.

17) This side is slightly harder….only because some of the bolts are difficult to reach by hand.

18) I started by removing 2 10mm bolts which retain the wiring harness. I only removed the 2 bolts closest to the front and middle of the head. The rear bolt is not necessary to remove.

19) You will need to remove the rubber breather tune that runs from the valve cover to the intake manifold. Use the pliers to loosen the clamps; then, slide the tube off of the engine.

20) Now, you should be able to disconnect the electrical plugs from the coils. This is the same as on the driver’s side.

21) The coil removal and plugs change is the same as described above. The only difference is that the back (toward firewall) coil bolt is difficult to get to with your fingers. Use the magnetic tool to remove and replace this bolt.

22) After repeating the procedure for all the cylinders, you should be done. Make sure to check that all the electrical connectors are snug and “clicked” tight.

23) Very important, you shouldn’t have any extra bolts laying around!!!!

24) put the engine cover back on. Secure it with its 4 fasteners

25) reconnect the negative battery terminal.

26) YOU ARE DONE!!!!!

I think I remembered all the steps. This took me about an hour, going at a leisurely pace. Additionally, I was figuring it out as I went. With some motivation, you could probably do it in 1/2 an hour.

Have fun,

Andrew

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Member Credit: EddyMaxx

A while back I noticed a fellow member (Jose Vargas) with some EVO brackets on his 5thgen Maxima. I decided to do the same to my car. These are lightweight aluminum mounts that fit great and are great OEM replacements. They also come with OEM rubber inserts and will not rust. They have them in other colors too. I personally chose RED.

Product Name (search eBay):
Torque Solution Radiator Mount Bracket w/ Insert Red Mitsubishi Evolution 7/8/9
Part #: 
TS-EV-008i
Price: $17.71 (you need two of them so it will be $35.42)

eBay Link: https://ebay.us/RhuIlF

 

my4dsc: 269

Member Credit: xlack

This is from a G37 but the procedure pretty much identical to Nissan Maximas.

OEM Oil Pan completely stripped of silicon residue:

JWT Oil Pan Spacer:

New silicon applied:

Brush used to remove silicon remains:

This bolt has to be bended in order for the oil pan spacer to fit. (guy from 370z forum had it cut off, but is not necessary):

Bolt is knocked back into position:

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Owner: Jaime J Dajer‎

Year: 2002
Model: Maxima
Color: Silver
Transmission: 4-Speed Automatic
Trim: SE

Highlights: This is a one-of-a-kind 5thgen Nissan Maxima with a RIPP Mods supercharger fabricated to fit the VQ35DE. It is using a R.I.P.P V5 supercharger kit that came off a Mitsubishi Eclipse GT V6. It’s also using water meth injection. Initially, it made 339.7whp & 306.3 fl-lbs torque on 440 injectors at 98%, ignition retarded timing set at +11 , 8 psi and a 2.6 pulley.

Videos

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Member Credit: NISformance

This article shows how to swap a 2007+ Altima 3.5L VQ35 engine, or 2009+ Maxima 3.5L engine into older Nissan Maxima’s. Including the 2002-2006 Altima (3.5L) and 2002-2008 Maximas. This motor swap is referred to as the 2nd Generation (Gen2) VQ35DE swap.

FB: https://www.facebook.com/NISformance/
Contact: darren@nisformance.com

FWD HR Engine Swap Kit – Version 2 ($220.00)

This kit allows you to swap a 2nd generation VQ35DE motor in a 2002-2008 Maxima or 2002-2006 Altima (3.5 V6) The NISformance 2nd Generation VQ35DE swap kit consist of five main components. The Cam sensor signal inverters, PNP throttle body adapter harness, Belt tensioner bracket, and Alternator bracket. Each component and its intended use is detailed below.

The camshaft sensor signal inverter allows the stock harness to be attached to a newer 2nd generation motor and intercept the camshaft signal wires. This is an essential part of the swap kit and has been designed with ease of install in mind. Each inverter with have a camshaft sensor plug pre-installed. Only wiring necessary are three wires consisting of ground, power, and signal.

The plug and play throttle body harness is necessary in order to utilize the 70 or 75 millimeter throttle body that is equipped on 2nd generation motors.

Sept 2018 Update: We have made several changes to our swap kit in order to improve function and ease of installation. Our V2 swap kit features new cam sensor signal inverters that use a 12V power source. This makes wiring much quicker and easier. Each inverter includes a camshaft sensor plug pre-installed. Both the alternator and belt tensioner brackets have been updated for better fit, brackets are now Zinc coated for higher corrosion resistance.

Ordering Link: http://www.nisformance.com/product-p/hrkitv2.htm

EPS Tuning Oil Gallery Gasket/Hardware Kit VQ35 FWD HR Head engine ($60.00)

Ordering Link: http://www.nisformance.com/EPS-Tuning-Oil-Gallery-Gasket-Hardware-Kit-p/oilgallerykitfwdhr.htm

VIAS Vacuum Hose Kit 2nd Gen VQ35DE ($9.00)

This Kit allows you to properly connect VIAS hassle free. Each kit includes high quality 5/32 Vacuum hose pre cut to the correct lengths for the 2nd Generation VQ35DE intake manifold.Outside port on VIAS solenoid goes to the manifold. Inner port goes to the Y splitter, then each VIAS control solenoid.

Ordering Link: http://www.nisformance.com/product-p/nis-vhk.htm

Other Optional Parts to Replace:

  • Coolant Log Gaskets ($7.99)
  • VQ35 Upper Oil Pan Gasket ($14.99)
  • Belt Tensioner Adjuster Bolt ($15.99)
  • Oil Cooler/Warmer Delete Kit FWD 2nd Gen VQ35DE ($49.99)

There are a few things to keep in mind before beginning your swap:

  • It’s easier to do this swap if you have a 3.5 DE motor laying around, especially if you just pulled it out of the car. You will need to take some things off of the old motor to use on the HR. Without this, there are a few parts that you will have to buy in order to complete the swap.
  • There are some specific tools needed: An ‘E8’ torx socket, 5/16 Allen key, Loctite

VQ35DE Motor Options

There are two generations of the front wheel drive VQ35DE. First generation motor 2002-2008 Maxima , 2002-2006 3.5L Altima. Second generation motor 2009+ Maxima , 2007+ 3.5L Altima. The second generation VQ35DE is equipped with an improved head and manifold design allowing for increased air flow and improved performance. Oil consumption and other flaws commonly found in first generation motors have also been eliminated.

There are two variations of the second generation VQ35DE. A Maxima motor is equipped with “EVT” ( Exhaust Valve Timing ) and has slightly higher compression when compared to an Altima motor, which is not equipped with “EVT”. In most swap applications that use a Maxima motor “EVT” is not used. In order to use “EVT” a different engine management system is necessary. However “EVT” is not necessary and does not negatively affect performance or reliability if left unused.

Step 1: Stripping the motor

Depending on where your motor came from, there may be a lot of ‘extra’ pieces still attached to it. Some of these will just get in your way while you prep your motor, some can’t be used for this swap.

  • Remove all accessories, which includes the alternator, power steering pump.
  • Remove any harnesses and brackets that are still connected to the motor.
  • Remove upper intake manifold (removing lower manifold is not necessary, but sometimes desirable. If removed, a new gasket should be used to reinstall).
  • Remove oil temperature sender:

  • Remove idler pulley/tensioner ‘spacer’ (seen below in red):

** The injector rail may also be removed, but that isn’t necessary.

Step 2: Cover any openings

There will be A LOT of metal shavings and dust around the motor, depending on how you do the cutting and grinding that comes later. These absolutely CANNOT be allowed to get into the motor.

  • Intake ports in the top:

  • Exhaust ports on the sides of motor:

  • Fuel injector ports if fuel rail was removed:

  • The open ends of any coolant hoses/pipes:

Step 3: Modifying the motor 

Some parts of the motor will need to be cut somehow (tools, methods and results will vary) to allow for proper fitment and function once it’s re-installed.

** Because of some concerns about the integrity of the stock oil gallery gasket, we at NISformance strongly recommend replacing it in this step. **

  • When changing the oil gallery gasket, this is a good time to grind away the center portion of the power steering bracket before reassembling the front of the motor.
  • Grind/cut away the center portion of the power steering bracket. This requires some aggressive cutting, but also needs some attention to detail (cutting too DEEPLY can weaken the integrity of the timing cover. Cutting too WIDE can weaken the remaining brackets that will be needed to hold the alternator):

  • Grind/cut away a portion of the metal where the idler pulley/tensioner spacer was:

  • Remove exhaust manifold studs at the rearmost exhaust port (close to the trans). This requires an ‘E8‘ torx socket:

  • Clean out the threads in the opposite holes using a ‘10 x 1.25‘ tap.
  • Replace the removed studs into the newly cleaned holes:

  • Remove lower oil pan
  • Remove upper oil pan
  • Use the oil pan from a 3.5 DE motor…but remove the windage tray. Add your o-rings and seals, and install upper oil pan onto the HR motor.
  • Remove the HR water pump access cover, and replace it with the one from the DE motor

Step 4: Adjusting the cam signal wheel

This is a VERY important step and it must be done very carefully for your car to run properly. You have to be accurate.

Apart from the wiring, adjusting the signal wheel is the most detailed work you need to do on the swap. It is important to be very accurate when cutting or grinding, and it’s also extremely important to assemble everything correctly at the end of this step. Pay close attention to the pictures and make sure that your work looks EXACTLY the same!

*You will need to modify your 5/16 Allen key by cutting the arm down so that it is approximately 3/8″ long. This is your ‘special tool’ that you will need to use in this part of the swap.

  • Open one of the valve covers.
  • Using the ‘special tool’, loosen the signal wheel lock nut and remove the signal wheel from the intake cam:
  • Completely remove the inner nubs from the signal wheel without damaging the rest of the inner surface:

  • At the crank, turn the motor until two notches are visible at the top of the cam:

  • Add Loctite to the flat inner surface of the signal wheel:

  • Reconnect the modified signal wheel to the intake cam…be sure to place it at the proper angle (as shown below) and re-secure the lock nut:

  • Close and bolt down the valve cover
  • Open the other valve cover, and repeat these same steps.

Step 5: Cam Sensor Wiring

Now that all of the heavy wrenching is out of the way, we get to the really important part of your swap.

Version 2 Kit –  Cam Sensor Signal Inverter Wiring

V2 inverters are single channel. One inverter is required for each camshaft position sensor.

Wiring for cam sensor signal inverter:

Red wire – 12 volt power supply (power going into the board)
Black wire – Ground
Orange wire – Signal out (connects to existing wire on ecu side)

Picture below demonstrates the older style DE cam sensor plug that is cut off when wiring in inverter with required wiring:

Version 1 Kit –  Cam Sensor Signal Inverter Wiring

The wiring harness in your car needs to be connected to the newer motor, and it’s not just a ‘plug-and-play’ situation. These diagrams show you the changes that need to be made to make your DE harness control your HR motor:

** THESE WIRE CONNECTIONS ARE CRITICAL. MAKE SURE THAT THEY ARE CONNECTED CORRECTLY (ACCORDING TO THE INSTRUCTIONS), AND SECURELY. TWISTING THEM TOGETHER IS NOT GOOD ENOUGH. **

The stock cam signal wire will be intercepted (cut) by the cam signal inverter supplied with the swap kit. There are six wires on the cam signal inverter…here’s how you connect them:

  • The RED wire goes to a 5v source from your car’s harness (to supply power to the sensor)
  • The BLACK wire is ground

For Cam #1…cut the existing wire:

  • The YELLOW inverter wire connects to the existing wire on the CAM side
  • the ORANGE inverter wire connects to the existing wire on the ECU side

For Cam #2…cut the existing wire:

  • The BLUE inverter wire connects to the existing wire on the CAM side
  • The GREEN inverter wire connects to the existing wire on the ECU side

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Member Credit: Chris Ashley

This should assist members who have the infamous fuel gauge issues on the 00-03 5thgen Nissan Maxima. You can easily test the fuel level sensor under backseat and verify the wiring. If both test good, then you need a cluster. It took about 30 minutes to perform the test.

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Credit: NISformance

This kit is designed to replace the factory oil cooler/warmer. Factory setup warms the engine oil and maintains it at coolant temperature. However, this often leaks or cannot be reused due to damage or contamination.

When using this delete kit vehicles must be driven carefully upon cold startup, no high rpm driving until oil temperature warms up *

Includes:

  • Block plug
  • Oil filter stud
  • Thermostat (without coolant hose fitting)
  • Gasket

Installation:

The block plug replaces the metal line running from block to the factory oil warmer plate

Oil filter stud is used for attaching oil filter to engine block once the oil warmer plate has been removed

Welded coolant block replaces factory coolant block as well as the rubber hose

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Member Credit(s): Enygunna Aztec, Tesfa McGregor, Justin Funck

Official photos of the NISformance headers purchased by various Maxima members. They look great! The price of these headers is $1,550.00 and worth every penny! You can get them here: http://www.nisformance.com/NISformance-Headers-p/nisheaders.htm

These headers are currently available for: VQ35DE 1995-2003 Maxima, 2004-2006 Maxima with manual trans or 4spd auto, 2002-2006 Altima 3.5L with manual trans or 4spd auto.

Specifications:

  • Head flange Made from 1/2″ thick steel
  • CNC machined for a smooth transition from exhaust port to primary pipe
  • 1 7/8″ Primary runner size
  • Equal length primaries
  • Formed collector with spike
  • 2.5” collector
  • 2.5” equal length ypipe
  • 3” ypipe out to catback flange
  • Vband flanges on headers and ypipe (2bolt flange on rear of ypipe to bolt to catback)
  • Fully TIG welded

Comparison of 3rdgen Altima / 6thgen Maxima Cattman Headers and NISformance Headers

Price for Reference

 

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