So I finally buckled down and added info in here for how to change your oil sending unit also known as an oil pressure sensor. Hoping this helps some of you guys out. The beginning of my problems was when I noted 0 psi on my oil pressure gauge (stock on SE-R) after running diagnostics and checking wiring I had discovered that the sensor was bad. The sensor can range in price for you VQ guys depending upon an SE-R or just SE. The difference between the two is 2 (se) and 3 prongs (SE-R) for the oil pressure gauge.
Given that I drive an SE-R I had to pony up the extra cash for the $70 unit
Ok onto the install. There’s a lot of bad info out there telling you that the only way to remove it is going through the passenger wheel well after removing wheel. I originally did this then found out I wasted my time. We have a grease pit in our garage. If you guys are lucky enough to have a lift or pit in your garage this will make install a breeze. If not pull out your jackstands or ramps and set your car up for an oil change. By draining your oil you can avoid a mess when you unthread the sensor.
You will need:
Oil changing materials socket
Deep 24mm socket to accommodate the sensor to fit inside when threading 1/2 in drive small breaker bar (I found a ratchet too big and didn’t give enough space to fit, I tried extensions and articulated drives as well without success. They just didn’t work)
Breaker bar 24mm socket and sending unit
Location of sensor is above oil pan and drain plug to the right side ( sensor is still plugged in and wire loom can be seen.
After unplugging sensor and using socket to remove I used Teflon pipe tape on the new sending unit threaded it in by hand and used the socket the rest of the way. Be careful not to overtighten and set the sensor so that the harness and plug can be easily removed if needed later.
That’s it! A pretty easy fix to something that would cost over $140 to have done at the dealer. Once the car was on the pit and I had my tools the job was done in under 25 mins.
This is a one-of-a-kind 5.5 Nissan Maxima with a RIPP Mods supercharger fabricated to fit the 3.5 engine. It is a R.I.P.P v5 and it came off a Mitsubishi Eclipse GT V6 an also using water meth injection.
Initially, it made 339.7whp & 306.3 fl-lbs torque on 440 injectors at 98%, ignition retarded timing set at +11 , 8 psi and a 2.6 pulley.
Photo of how it looks installed on an Mitsubishi Eclipse.
This morning I went to change the serpentine belt on my 1998 4thgen Nissan Maxima. While it’s a simple task, it turned out the “Adjustment Bolt” was also seized and slightly bent. It definitely needed to be replaced. The good news is that you can buy just the “Adjustment Bolt” and/or “Adjustment Nut” by itself. You don’t need to buy the entire assembly. If those are your only two broken parts like me case, then all you need to order (or get at a junkyard) are these two part numbers:
This is only intended for a providing a reference to the list of core parts used in the 7GM 6-Speed swap that was successfully completed by Gerson Flores & Sunday Ortiz. It’s not a how-to or step-by-step process. Please only attempt to do the swap if you are mechanically inclined and understand the Nissan FSM (Factory Service Manuals). If you are interested in getting the full swap professionally done, you can check out this post.
Please note that all of these items were purchased brand with the exception of a few parts (custom & discontinued parts). The total cost for all the parts below adds up to approximately $4,522.00. You may be able to find parts for much less and save money.
Miles are unknown on the motor. I’m gonna say….very low miles. It blew oil vapor out of the crank case for a couple thousand miles, so it’s safe to say she was basically brand new.
I cleaned and window welded the old mounts. I forgot to take pics, but you know how cracked up and falling apart they are at this age. I used the 3M tube and shot it into any cracks then filled up the vacant spots and added a layer on the outsides. Obviously, burning/cutting them up and filling is the best way. I’m cheap and lazy.
I opted for a 4″ grinder with a cutting wheel to do the PS modding (Darren used hack saw, iirc). You can lop off most the bottom ear, then cut slits in both of them and break out the pieces with a chisel. Test fit the pump and you’ll see where it hits the block. Grind off a little more there and you can really make it easy to get the belt off. Grinder makes a lot of mess. Make sure the motor is sealed up good enough (I washed it with a hose afterwards).
UD PS pulley is in the mail. So, ignore this stupid, ugly thing.
DOUBLE CORRECTION Pulleys looked aligned originally, but it’s clearly misaligned. I thought alternator was off compared to the AC/crank pulley, but i was wrong. The compressor is like 4mm off from the crank/alternator on this particular engine (no one elses is like this apparently). It makes the belt squeal when it heats up b/c it’s rubbing on the alty pulley AND rubbing sideways accross tensioner pulley (tried to align the atly between crank and compressor, didn’t work). I resorted to using tiny washers (in retrospect, making a half moon would work) to shim the tensioner pulley to the appropriate angle towards the alty pulley and aligned it with the compressor. I have no idea why my engine is different, but this worked. The belt runs “straight” across the tensioner pulley. I believe Daren just had to shim the alty with a couple washers.
I didn’t have the luxury of the new bracket, so I took a junk piece of metal and made my own connecting to the old bracket. Here’s what it looks like before molesting scrap metal.
Being the lazy *** that I am, I decided to leave the new coolant pipes up top (connector mounts/brackets be damned). The hose already on them works great to bypass the TB coolant asshatery from Nissan.
For the lower pipes, I kept the originals – Por 15’d them and kept the oil cooler thingy, which works out great for the MASSIVE pl-14619 filter. I recommend replacing the oil cooler hoses. Also, replace the oil cooler O ring (it will leak later).
I went kinda crazy on the tensioner. I stacked four 3/4″ lock washers and trimmed the top of the tensioner nut off to gain more clearance. I did it before fully testing LOL. I don’t think it was necessary…. It looks like I needed more washers than Darren, since I have an UDP. I also ground down the back of the pulley bolt some b/c I couldn’t freely slide it up and down.
The new nylon hose is smaller, so I used two different adapters and screwed them together (with permanent thread lock lol). I couldn’t find a barbed coupler with different diameters at the ****ty hardware stores.
I am using a 7th gen IM and TB on this engine. I want to retain as much power as possible. No EVT will be the only difference. Three pullies being lightweight/UDP should easily offset the loss of EVT.
Is it me or are arp bolts kinda sexy?
retarding cam wheels didn’t work, lovely edit: Fixed after Darren sent me a pic.
I underestimated how much larger this pulley would be since it’s underdriving LOL. This thing must be 6″ .The sentras stock pulley causes cavitation at high rpm, so it’s even more oversized. It’s not that big of a deal, I just cut off that little arm on the bracket.
What I did forget is that they don’t use a two belt system, so it has two more ribs. 32″ belt works perfect and alignment is with the belt in the middle.
So, yeah, SR20 pulley is definitely a better idea for the non-rigging crew
You’ll notice a piece missing haha. The pulley is 5.5″.
USE THIS OPPORTUNITY TO REPLACE POWER STEERING HOSE AS IT’S JUST ONE LESS THING TO REPLACE LATER
Mmmm, new friction plate
PCV? Nonsense crap!
Extended IVT wires
quick and dirty recap (can I do anything right lol) of what is not in my thread:
These are needed from old engine:
Water pump access cover
Motor mount brackets Front, Rear, and passenger
Upper and lower oil pan
oil pickup tube
Oil cooler and related pieces (not thermostat), you can fit the monster purolator pure one with it pl-14619
Swap pass motor mount – You need longer bolts for the two top ones (I don’t remember, just measure and figure it out, simple ****). I don’t recall what the bottom one needs to be.
Install the VIAS. I think Darren used one of the solenoids off the new engine, idk. I just used the original VIAS system (split to both valves of course) to make sure it worked. Or you could just plug in the solenoid and rig the valves open.
Need real tuning solution to extract all those ponies and fix AFR.
Need 4″ intake for moar powah (which will need bigger injectors or more pressure)!
I couldn’t find it actually posted anywhere where it loaded, but google had it
Alright folks, here ya go! Nice NiCopp clutch line!
Late pic for funsies. I forgot the balancer and chains LOL. I strapped the motor in and out and pulled the tranny up with them
So I am currently in the middle of swapping an HR motor from a 7th gen Maxima into my 5th gen and came across the throttle body harness swap and I couldn’t find anything about it via searching besides buying an adapter online so I thought I’d share how I soldered mine DIY.
Below are some pictures I attached to show some diagrams, also what each wire from each harness, its color, the year of the car and the wire’s function. (sorry about the weird layout, was using software I wasn’t familiar with)
The first picture on the top left has information for both cars, 2002 on the left, 2010 on the right. the rest are the diagrams to be sure they are connected correctly.
There was a time where 6-speed swaps for the Nissan Maxima were only available for 4thgens, 5thgens and 6thgens. After 2006, Nissan no longer offered manual transmission options. All new Maxima’s now come with the CVT transmission. While the CVT provides a smoother ride and improved fuel economy, it definitely takes away from the 4DSC experience.
But don’t worry. Those times have certainly and FINALLY changed. The 6-speed swap is now officially available for the 7thgen Nissan Maxima (2009-2015). We consider the 7GM 6-speed the true meaning of a 4DSC. It has a balance of power, luxury and comfort.
Many thanks to Darren from NISformance for taking initial plunge and making this possible on Dan Evan’s 7GM. Lot’s of hours and dedication to create an OEM-feel swap. Darren is no stranger to the pioneering world of Nissan Maxima’s. He created the FWD HR Swap for use in older Maxima’s and is also offering the 7GM 6-speed swap as service at his shop. Dan Evans is now a happy camper!
Many thanks to Platinum Auto Works & Gerson/Sunday for also taking on the 7GM 6-speed swap. These types of projects are the ones that fuel the community into modding their Nissan Maxima’s. The Maxima world was quiet for a few years and thanks to these guys and shops, the Maxima community is back and better than ever! So who will be swap #4? Be sure to keep us posted.