Owner: Junior Olsen
Year: 2008
Model: Maxima
Color: Tan
Transmission: CVT
Trim: SE
Community Member Credit: Eddy
The Mishimoto performance aluminum radiator for the Nissan Maxima is designed and engineered to maximize cooling efficiency, boost engine functions, and protect your car from overheating.
Important Note:
- Per Mishimoto, the 04-08 Nissan Maxima Performance Aluminum Radiator (part number MMRAD-NIS-08) is not directly compatible with automatic transmission vehicles. It is only a direct fit for the 2004–2008 Nissan Maxima 3.5L with manual transmission.
- For automatic applications, you’ll need an external transmission cooler. If you choose Mishimoto, you can go with this part number “MMTC-U”
- You can also purchase your own transmission cooler at your local parts store (usually B&M or Hayden) which works just as well. They are much cheaper in price as well. I paid $40 bucks for mine.
- There are some 6thgens within 2005-2006 that have a Heat Sink Type Cooler and DO NOT require an external cooler. The easiest way to check is to look at your radiator and see if there are lines going out to the transmission.
Transmission Info:
- 6-Speed Manual: 100% Plug and Play
- 4-Speed Automatic: External Transmission Cooler Required
- 5-Speed Automatic: External Transmission Cooler Required (Unless it has built-in Heat Sink Cooler)
- CVT Automatic: External Transmission Cooler Required
Product Features:
- Full aluminum construction including durable, TIG-welded end tanks
- Features a two-row, 1.42″ thick, efficient brazed aluminum core
- Increased fluid capacity and optimal heat dissipation
- Perfect for use on the street, strip, or track
- Ideal replacement for an aging and/or clogged stock radiator
- Efficient temperature regulation for both stock and modified vehicles
- Includes 1.3 Bar High-Pressure Radiator Cap which effectively raises the boiling point of engine coolant, providing a safer and more efficient system
- Includes Magnetic Drain Plug to capture any metallic debris/fragments in your cooling system
Eddy Photos
Additional Member Provided Photos
Notes: This is not a full VQ30DE-T engine. It’s an A32 VQ30DE with a VQ30DE-T Upper Intake Manifold
If you are doing a Gen1/Gen2/Gen3 VQ35DE Swap in your 4thgen Nissan Maxima, you can verify your base ignition timing using ECUTalk.
Your base timing should be at 15 degrees.
rich_max2di4 | 2020 Gen3 VQ35DE (15 Degrees)
EddyMaxx| 2020 Gen3 VQ35DE (15 Degrees)
Christopher Cruz | Gen1 Cammed VQ35DE (15 Degrees)
Timing Verification using ECU Talk
Timing Reference Photos
Community Member Credit: The Wizard
1. ECU pinout for 99 is much different than 95-98’s. Regarding installation of the EU, pin 44 needs to be changed to pin 46.
2. Jumper Pin 13 must be set to OPEN (not 1-2 as shown on page 27 of Dan’s writeup), otherwise your fans will not kick on and your car will overheat. I’ve tested this. Thanks for the footnote Dan!!
3. The 99 FSM is all screwed up, so don’t go by it. Hours and hours were wasted trying to figure out the 99 FSM and compare it to the other year FSM’s I have. The 99 FSM led me to believe that 3 pinouts had to be changed at first. Before I hacked or cut a single wire, I did a continuity test (per Dan’s recommendation) and figured out which wires were really what. Only one wire on Dandy’s ECU diagram had to be switched as stated above.
4. My Emanage Ultimate is version D. I don’t have any CEL’s!!
This illustrates that resistors don’t need to be soldered in (for version D).
5. Also, I have no issues with burning/melting coilpacks as some have experienced.
Last but not least, I would like to give a big thank you to Dan (Dandymax). I sent him 3 or 4 emails asking for help/clarification on several issues before the install. Dan always got back to me within 24 hours or so and provided in-depth explanations. With his awesome write-up and his “tech support”, he made the install a breeze and trouble-free. Lastly, I found many, many mistakes in Greddy’s install manual (more on that later), but couldn’t find one in Dan’s writeup! Great job Dan!
Additional Info
The red connections you see are for the wires that get tapped. The taps are 2.5″ of wire with a female connection on the end. I crimped a male connector on each of Greddy’s bare tap wires. It did it this way so the EU can be removed quickly and easily from the system if need be.
The clear connections are the connections Greddy provided and are for the intercepted lines. It worked out really nice because Greddy would put a female connection on say Injector #1 IN and a male connection on the Injector #1 OUT. All I did was crimp on the opposite of each onto the OEM harness. If the EU is taken out of the car, the female/male Greddy connections will join together and the car is back to stock.
I plan on installing it under the seat and running the harness cable under the center console for a super clean look. When it’s done, it will look like it’s not even there……
Community Member Credit: Trevon Walters
- Haltech 350z Silver
- Patch Harness
- Haltech Dual Wideband/Controller with a VEI Gauge!
- Zero issues with the unit going full stand-alone since emissions will no longer be an issue.
- Has been in my car for 2 years.
- Can check out my live video on here back in January.
- Asking for $1k shipped!
If you want to add an easy 25WHP to your Altima or Maxima then look no further. Our SFR high-velocity manifold is an easy bolt-on and adds 25WHP to an NA car and up to 50WHP on turbo cars. We also offer an aluminum engine cover that goes with it to really dress up the engine We also offer the intake manifold for the later models Altimas and Maximas.
Nissan Club
I was fortunate enough to have the first SFR High-Velocity Manifold put on a N/A vq35. From what Tim at Speed Force Racing told me this manifold is slightly different from the manifold made for forced induction cars.
I have had the manifold for months. When I first received it I was impressed with what I saw. The design is wicked and looks waaaayyy better than stock. It took me a while to slap it on at first because I had to find and purchase the correct barb fitting to hook up the vacuum hoses. At first, the installation was a bit time-consuming because I didn’t know what I was doing. I have installed the manifold on and off about 6 times already so installation for me is under an hour.
The sound is pretty cool. At low revs during soft acceleration, you hear a humming/growl from under the hood. Under hard acceleration, the engine sounds great! it isn’t loud and obnoxious. It’s more of a deeper growl, nothing too crazy or far from stock, but noticeable.
At first, I could only go off of the butt dyno and my butt dyno liked what I felt. To me, the mid-range was increased a lot. I knew the torque was increased a lot (dyno showed 10wtq at peak). Up top, the car felt great as well. My car just easily pulled to higher RPMs. I could definitely feel the car breathing MUCH better. Even while cruising at lower RPMs the car had sooo much better response.
Here are some pics of what it looks like on my car:
Some graphs got mixed up at the shop but I managed to get the most important ones. The graph shows the highest dyno from the stock manifold with the highest dyno with the SFR manifold. the other graph has the highest stock vs. a couple runs with the SFR manifold but also shows the torques as well.
I picked up almost 30whp at redline alone.
I was amazed at how much power was picked up at redline. this isn’t your average SSIM dyno graph only showing gains up top. You can clearly see there are gains on the ENTIRE powerband. Peak rose 5whp (wish it was more). What’s important here is the area under the curve. midrange you can see ~12whp gains as well!
I like this manifold very much! yes, it’s not a cheap mod but for the overall power, it’s worth it. It adds power where cams don’t and cost half the price. Plus install isn’t that hard. To me, it was well worth the money spent.
Additional Reference Photos
