Community Member Credit: Eddy
The fans on my 6thgen Maxima went bad, so I decided to try out these eBay ones before buying a more expensive brand again. At this price, I figured I could repurpose them for something else in the event my car was not cooling properly. I previously had a SPAL fan where the motor seized. To my surprise, these actually ended up working great with no issues. While a shroud is recommended, I don’t have one and my car didn’t have any issues with cooling during the summer. I have an external water temp gauge and temps are as they normally should be.
So if you’re looking for a Mishimoto alternative or OEM stock fan replacement, you can give these a try. And quite honestly, I saw no difference between these and a set a Mishimoto fans that I have on another car. I have these wired up directly to stock harness used a 4thgen Maxima pigtail. No external relay was required for these.
Description: 2×14”inch Slim Fan Push Pull Engine Radiator Cooling 90W Mount Kit Universal
Price: $32 Shipped (for both fans)
Order Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/192031451879
|TYPE OF ENDS||Female Snap-Plug Terminal|
|AIR TEMP WHILE TESTED||72°F (22°C)|
|NORMAL CURRENT (AMPS)||7.8|
|INRUSH CURRENT (AMPS)||15.1|
|# OF BLADES||8|
Community Member Credit: Eddy
This is just for reference and comparison. The RIPP Supercharged Kit usually comes with the V-5 G Supercharger. Most upgrade to the V-2 Si Supercharger Trim. You will need to ensure the impeller is also in the right rotation for your setup.
|Supercharger||Max Speed||Max Boost||Max Flow||Max Power||Inlet OD||Outlet OD|
|V-5 F||52000 RPM||14 PSI||750 CFM||550 HP||3.5″||2.5″|
|V-5 G||52000 RPM||15 PSI||750 CFM||550 HP||3.5″||2.5″|
|V-2 S||50000 RPM||20 PSI||1000 CFM||680 HP||3.5″||2.75″|
|V-2 SC||53000 RPM||20 PSI||1000 CFM||680 HP||3.5″||2.75″|
|V-2 Sci||53000 RPM||17 PSI||1050 CFM||725 HP||3.5″||2.75″|
|V-2 Si||52000 RPM||22 PSI||1150 CFM||775 HP||3.5″||2.75″|
Owner: Roger McDonald
Tuner: Moncef @ AdminTuning
This is a very impressive setup. Especially for the Max enthusiasts that choose to go the 3.0 timing route.
Community Member Credit: JIME
Community Member Credit: JIME
Not sure if this has been visited before but my Son recently brought it to my attention when we were discussing running a 200 shot of spray. He suggested that I use his nitrous test kit to ensure the fuel pressure remained constant when running a 200 fuel jet. So after a few minutes I soon found out that my 190 Walbro dropped to 30 psi, not good. He then mentioned that a lot pf VW and DSM guys rewired their fuel pump with a higher gauge wire to maintain a higher voltage. I measured the voltage at the pump with the engine running and found it to be just over 12v. I then ran a heavy gauge wire from the battery and conected it to the pump wire at the pump, the voltage went up to almost 14 and the fuel pressure went up by almost 10 psi.
So it was off to the store to buy some heavier wire. I decided on 10 gauge rather than something heavier because of the difficulty soldering heavier wire as well as routing. The stock wire at the pump is 14 gauge but if you strip the wire back a couple of feet you will find it increases to 12 gauge.
The easiest way is to run the heavier gauge wire directly from the battery with a fuse and use a relay to connect to the pump. Use the original pump supply wire to fire the relay and use the larger wire on the N.O contacts to run the pump.
Auto Performance has a couple of charts comparing 12v vs 13.8v and their corresponding flow rates and current draw.. Pretty impressive comparison. eg For my pump at 50 psi the flow rate increases from 36 to 46 gal/hr while the current draw remains the same.
I would suggest an adjustable FPR to compensate for the increased pressure.
A 255 pump was installed because even with the increased voltage the 190 pump would not handle a 200 shot. After installing the new pump my pressure increased to over 80 psi and took a lot of adjustment to bring it back into the 50 psi range.
Community Member Credit: Aaron92SE
First off, I just want to say that I got this idea from Jime. He purchased a 300amp battery jump box and used the battery out of it for his car. It weighed 6 lbs. I believe he had problems with it starting. So he purchased a 400amp battery jump box with a 12lb battery and has been using that ever since without issues. Jime, please correct me if I say anything incorrect. Thanks.
So I found that Harbor Freight had the best deal on a Battery Jump Box. So I purchased a couple of them. One to keep in the trunk of my car and one to use the battery out of.
The jump box I used was a 650amp one found here (Item #40615):
It’s the largest one they had. But before I ripped into this one, I looked at the manual and simply decided to order the replacement battery direct from Harbor Freight by calling their customer support at 1-800-444-3353. The battery cost $32.70. I order another battery for my HF drill, so that increased shipping costs to $7.99 instead of approximately $6.00 I think. The item number printed on my receipt for the battery is 26307. But you shouldn’t need that. Just give them the item number for the Jump Box and tell them you want the replacement battery.
The battery weighs 14lbs.
Here is what the battery looks like:
First I had to install “flag to post” adapters. I ordered them through my local Napa store (Part # NW 728219) for $6.29. They come in a pair and were cheaper than ordering them online from a battery supply store.
I had to slightly drill out the flag terminals on the battery with a step drill bit in order to use some spare M6 bolts I had laying around.
Next, I had to figure out a way to mount it in my 3rd gen. I really wanted to get rid of the battery tray as well for further weight reduction. But this posed several other problems. One being, the coolant tank attached to one of the battery tie down bolts. Plus, a couple relay boxes attach to the battery tray.
Out with the old battery. It weighed in at 40lbs and the tray is 3lbs.
I zip tied the coolant tank to the coolant tube on the VQ35. I know it’s ugly, but it’s ok. I’m only worried about performance here.
I put a fresh coat of paint on my OEM tie down. I found two bolt holes already in my frame that I was able to use. So I had these long M6 bolts laying around that I was able to use.
Here is what the battery looks like installed. I put some rubber bands on the bolts to prevent the bolts from ever dropping through the bolt holes. The bolt holes in my frame were threaded for M8 bolts and I didn’t have any M8 bolts that were long enough or I would have used those.
I was able to zip tie the relay boxes securely.
I installed a cheap Harbor Freight multimeter inside my car so I can always keep an eye on battery voltage. So far, this battery cranks my car up just fine. I have noticed that sometimes, the engine has to turn over one more time to get it to fire up. But this is not a concern. I believe this may be due to the engine turning over a tad slower than before. My old battery was the largest and highest CCA Duralast battery that Auto Zone had to offer. But it’s served it’s life as I bought it back in 2003.
Well that’s it. A weight reduction of 29lbs for under $40! I hope this helps somebody in the future. Thanks Jim for the idea!
I went to Advance Auto Parts today and bought a battery for $31.99. It has 230CCA and 275CA and weighs 15lbs. It works just fine in the summer. So I’m happy. I just had to make a new tie down since it sits higher than the jump box battery. Car starts with plenty of power.
Community Member Credit: Rick G.
Member Credit: ViperVadim / EddyMaxx
This will allow you to use a newer Mass Airflow Sensor to your 2000-2001 Nissan Maxima. This upgrade has been available for many many years. The newer MAF sensor is pretty much the same as 90% of the newer Nissan Models. Much cheaper and easier to find. You just need to be sure you also use the newer MAF housing when installing. You can either get an OEM pigtail or use the one from eBay below. I went with the eBay pigtail which costs around $16 bucks.
Important Note: In order to properly use this new MAF, your car will require tuning. The car will drive fine but your idle will be off and may fluctuate. If you’re preparing to get an ECU tune using stock ECU, make sure to let your tuner know so new MAF can be factored in.
For installing, you just need to match the wires as noted below. Very simple but please proceed with caution.
Pin 1: White = MAF signal (White)
Pin 2: 5v (Red-DO NOT USE) x
Pin 3: Ground (Black)
Pin 4: +12v ( Red/Green)
Pin 5: Blank
Separate IAT Sensor Plug
Pin 1: IAT Signal (Light Blue)
Pin 2: Ground (Black)
Pin 1: Blank
Pin 2: +12v (Yellow)
Pin 3: MAF Ground (Black)
Pin 4: MAF Signal (White)
Pin 5: IAT Signal (Blue)
Pin 6: IAT Ground (Red)
For reference, once you swap to this MAF… you can use MAF’s from any of the cars below. They all share the same exact MAF which makes this a better option.