Community Member Credit: TJ Max / ewuzh

For some reason, the big Allen head bolts that bolt the SC to the plate seemed to be standard, not metric. I figured it made sense since the bolts, Vortech, etc assembly is American-made, not overseas. So it wouldn’t be metric. If you do not have the EXACT Allen keys for these do not even ATTEMPT to turn the bolts, they will strip and you guys would be screwed.

The way I did it was:

1. Jack up car, support on a jack stand, pull off wheel, remove the plastic liner that covers the belt area.

2. Pull off the air filter and disconnect the charge pipe, get it out of the way.

3. Disconnect the SS oil feed line.

4. Remove those 2 17mm bolts through the motor mount (far left on the SC plate).

5. Get those 8mm bolts (or 10mm) that go through the plate and the timing chain case off. Even the ones right behind the pulley. Use a 10 or 8mm open-end wrench to back them out.

6. Get under the car, use a 14mm wrench to get the nut off the tensioner pulley off, and pull off the tensioner pulley.

7. Remove the 3 bolts holding in the tensioner bracket.

8. Reach up and get a 12mm socket onto that bolt up by the fat radiator hose. (Some find it easier to remove the SC plate with this hose disconnected from the Thermo housing completely) I agree, but I don’t like to make unnecessary messes. Remove that 12mm bolt.

9. Next, come from the top or bottom, up to you (If the rad hose is removed, it is so much easier to get to). And use an angle wrench to get that 19mm bolt off the idler pulley. Once you get this off, there is an Allen bolt underneath it that needs to come out as well.

10. There is one more bolt that goes through the standoff bolt, should be obvious. Disconnect Crank Position Sensor (it is the only wire harness running through/near the SC plate). Go underneath and loosen the hose clamp on the oil drain back J tube. When you finally pull the SC plate off grab that hose and yank it off the drain-back tube.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

Hard to explain this, but I used one of those 6 in one universal screwdriver and pulled the bit/insert out. So now you have an empty screwdriver sorta. I slipped the Allen key in that and used it as a mini breaker bar for those Allen bolts behind the SC plate. I think the sizes were standard 3/4 and 1/2. Don’t quote me on it though.

Simpler Version

Tools:

• Socket set (swivel socket would make things easier)
• open ended wrench set
• low profile 10mm wrench for that one PITA timing cover bolt behind supercharger pulley
• socket extensions
• allen wrench set (large ones, particularly metric 5, 6, 7, 8 and up) forgot which one it is
• common sense
• patience

Steps

1. remove charge pipe
2. remove intake filter
3. release belt tensioner
4. unscrew oil feed line
5. unbolt supercharger plate from side of engine
6. undo the hose clamp on the oil drain hose
7. pull supercharger w/ plate off engine
8. unbolt supercharger from plate
9. remove belt and lay new belt in place
10. installation is the reverse of everything (do not overtighen oil feed line or else it will crack and leak like a mofo)