Member Credit: Bryan and Kelsey
Member Credit: Bryan and Kelsey
Member Credit: 95BLKMAX
I wanted bigger brakes, but I didnt want to spend a fortune (as much as one would spend, say for a Z32 upgrade, or the 6th gen rotors with Z32 calipers, etc…) for just front brakes. Plus I dont autoX, I just do alot of highway spirited driving; so I wanted a beefier setup that wouldnt break the bank.
Parts / Cost:
SPECS – (Per 1995 FSM and 2003 FSM)
4th gen Rotors (mm/ inches)
5.5 gen Rotors (mm/ inches)
4th gen Caliper Pot (mm/ inches)
5.5 gen Caliper Pot (mm/ inches)
HOW TO- (I write this assuming you already know how to do a brake job, this how to made with attention to the work specifically related to the conversion process of being able to install these bigger brakes)-
Remove wheels, calipers (disconnect the lines from them but have a bottle near, they will leak alot of fluid), caliper mounting brackets and pads
Have this ubber drill bit…
It cost me $35 locally at a “nothing but nuts and bolts- specialized hardware store (Mitchell Supply Company) also 4 of these Metric bolts with lock washers (stock 4th gen on left, new 5.5gen on right)…
I bought them so long ago I dont recall the specs, so just go to the hardware store with the caliper mounting bracket for thme to check * With the Ubber drill bit, drill out the two holes on the hub. Try your best to keep it straight. Go slow with the bit at first because if it gets caught up, the drill WILL fling around and it could cause bodily harm depending of how strong of a drill you have. Once it started boring the hole out just go downtown on them. They should look like this afterwards…
Make a few cuts along the shield’s overlap up to the vertical part and with pliers bend the overlap up to vertical. The 5.5gen rotors wont fit otherwise…
Now with that done, the installation is the exact same as a normal brake job, only that you’re using the 5.5 gen parts. Hook up the lines and you will have to bleed ALL 4 calipers. At least with me, I let so much fluid drain that air got into the master cylinder, thus my line for the rear brakes had air, so I had to bleed all 4 corners. Break them in and enjoy the noticeably improved braking over that of the 4th gen parts.
Member Credit: HElShaer
Member Credit: Mikkellucci
I purchased the Akebono calipers, pads, etc. However, I just couldn’t go thru with adding that much unnecessary rotor weight to my car. And I’m talking about the Z1 “light weight” 2 piece ($1300) front and rear rotors. Even those add a ton of F/R weight because they are so large in diameter.
I decided to go my own route. I started working on a light weight solution using 350z rear Brembos and 2 piece rotors. The front will use 350z 2 piece rotors and a larger Brembo caliper from a genesis track spec.
2016 Maxima OEM
Front – 320 x 28 (22.5 lbs)
Rear – 307 x 16 (12.8 lbs)
G37/370z w/ Akebonos
Front – 355mm x 32mm (30.60 lbs)
Rear – 350mm x 20mm (20.9 lbs”)
Rront 2 piece = 21 lbs
Rear 2 piece = 16 lbs
350z w/ Brembos
Front – 324mm x 30mm (20.5 lbs)
Rear – 322mm x 22mm (17 lbs)
Front 2 piece = 15 lbs
Rear 2 piece = 13 lbs
Member Credit: hotsprings1234
Wanted to share and confirm that the following brakes will work on a 2016 Maxima from Z1 Motorsports if you are looking to upgrade. The Nissan dealership installed with no issue.
Member Credit: EddyMaxx & Michael Bird Tindal
Thanks to Michael for posting this information. For approx. $300 bucks, you can have a front Akebono BBK on your 7thgen Maxima. This is for only the Front BBK ONLY. You can do the rear setup as well inexpensively.
This is applicable to other Maxima’s as long as you have the correct brackets. The 7thgen/8thgen Maxima DOES NOT require brackets. Also a direct fit for the newer Altima’s (2010 Model).
The initial price will be over $300 because of the core charges. Once you return your old calipers, you will get that credit back. The core charge for each caliper at Autozone is $65.00. Also, keep in mind that you can save even more money if you have Autozone rewards.
You also have the option to paint or powdercoat the calipers. Of course this will increase the pricing. However, many members just buy a can of high-temp caliper paint and call it a day.
Dust shield has to be trimmed, 2 shorter banjo bolts (w/crush washers), and larger 13.9 inch rotors is all you need. While you’re doing all that you can upgrade brake lines but the factory ones will work and you will see a difference in stopping power.
Everything you need for Install:
|Ordered From (Click Links)||Part Number||Description||Price (After Core Return)||Coupon Code|
|Autozone||D6233||Duralast Reman Brake Caliper – Passenger Front||$76.99||You might be able to save more if you have a rewards card.|
|Autozone||D6232||Duralast Reman Brake Caliper – Driver Front||$76.99|
|O’Reilys||980664RGS||13.9″ Front Rotors Includes both Pass & Driver||$90.00||25More (Saves $5 bucks)|
|Autozone||DGC888||Duralast Max Brake Pads (Creamic) Includes both Pass & Driver||$57.99|
|Z1 Motorsports||N/A||Brake Line Banjo Bolt||$7.76||You need a total of 2 bolts and 4 crush washers. Two for each bolt.|
|eBay||22136||Goodridge G-Stop Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines||$114.07||Optional but recommended. Not included in price as it is not 100% required.|
|eBay||N/A||Akebono Decals||$6.85||Optional. Not included in price as it is not 100% required.|
So many of you are wondering, “can I return mystock OEM calipers in exchange for the BBK calipers”? The answer is YES.
Of course, you can’t exchange an alternator as a core for brakes. But brakes to brakes, the core is acceptable from a recycling perspective. Below is more clarity on the core charge.
A “Core Charge” is similar to the deposit you might pay for a can or bottle of soda. In many states, to promote recycling, you are charged a deposit when you purchase a can of soda and you receive your deposit back when you return the empty can. Many automotive parts have a Core Charge, or Core Price, that works the same way as a soda can deposit.
Here’s how the Core Charge works:
Returning the core allows parts to be remanufactured / recycled. Bringing back your core helps save our environment by keeping approximately 54,000 tons of cores out of landfills annually!
Member Credit: godlyone
1. calipers + torque member from a 2004 maxima through a junkyard ($50)
2. Black Zinc coated Dimpled Rotors + Hawk HPS pads via rotorpros ($149)
so a total of 200 spent..
First step is to really clean the calipers.. they were filthy!
Then sand the hell out of it and mask everything off for paint:
I used enamel based spray paint (high heat as it is really meant for BBQ grills)
Rotors and pads get delivered:
Look at the size difference with my OEM ones!
So jack up your car, USE JACKSTANDS, take off your wheel
At this point you want to place a drip pan under the caliper and loosen the brake line bolt (12mm)
Then remove 2 bolts (14mm) that hold the caliper on, hang the caliper to the spring using rope or something similar:
Then remove 2 more bolts (19mm) holding the torque member (these are on hella tight):
Use a C-clamp and an old brake pad to push the new caliper’s piston back to allow for the new pads to sit.
Now, connect the brake line to the new caliper and hang that one by the spring.
Place the rotor on. NOTE: some rotors are directional and have curved vanes, follow the instructions!
Put on the new torque member (with those two 19mm bolts). I applied some loctite here for a secure hold.
Put in the new brake pads, apply the special anti-squeal stuff.
Put the caliper on using the two 14mm bolts.
Now you need to bleed the brakes, so pick up some Dot 3 brake fluid, and have a friend help. If you don’t know how to bleed, the person outside of the car opens the bleeder to allow fluid to escape while the person in the car pumps and holds the brake to provide pressure. Keep bleeding until you don’t see any air in the line. It helps to use a tube into a water bottle filled w. some brake fluid so you can see the air bubbles come up. Remember to keep topping off the fluid so you don’t start drawing air in. It’s also a good idea to bleed a whole bunch of that nasty old fluid out..
So here are some size comparisons (remember my car is 2000 so the rotors were smaller than 5.5gens’)
Caliper (04 on left, 00 on right):
(04 on right, 00 on left)
Pad size (newer ones on bottom obviously):
And the best before and after lol:
Also notice my old rotor on the ground there, on the backside there is a very THIN strip where the pad was making actual contact.. I couldn’t believe how crappily the stock setup was working.
Additional Install Pics:
Member Credit: Nperez1986 / Jonthon Rubia
If you are looking to upgrade to the Akebono 4-Piston BBK from a Nissan 370z / Infiniti G37 Sport, you now have the option to use 300ZX (Z32) caliper adapter brackets on eBay. The bracket themselves are $70 bucks shipped. In order for this to work, you will need to use the Mitsubishi Evo X GSR 13.78″ (350 MM) rotors versus the Z34/V36 rotors (354 MM) rotors. The rotors themselves can be found for super cheap as well.
Brackets / Rotors work on the following:
Notes: For the 4thgen Nissan Maxima, you will need to enlarge the (4) holes in the knuckles to accommodate for bigger caliper bracket bolts. Aside from that it will work fine. Just keep in mind that this is ONLY for the front calipers. Rears will not fit on the 4thgens / 5thgens.
Link to Brackets: https://ebay.us/sCjKnm
eBay Actual Description: Front Akebono Big Brake Caliper Rotor Upgrade Adapter Bracket For 300ZX Z32
Once the calipers are on the car you only need to trim the dust shield in the lower mounting area. Photo’s below:
Nperez1986 below is demonstrating that the calipers and bracket will bolt on the front knuckles with no modifications.
Ever wanted to hop up to 4 piston brakes instead of just chilling with the 6th gen rotor and caliper upgrade. How about actual OEM BREMBO calipers designed for the EVO 8 & EVO 9 stopping your grocery hauler with enough force to throw you through the windshield? Well you need a small item to make that a reality, and I sell it for a moderate price.
Fitment (You will also need 12.6″ 6thgen Rotors):