Did a rear camber adjustment on the Y33 Cima (VQ30DET). I’m not into paying over the top for name-brand hardware on certain parts, so I picked up a more affordable set instead.
Installed them — fitment is spot-on, looks good, and the quality feels solid. I honestly don’t see how these would perform significantly worse than the high-end options.
Before installing, I disassembled and inspected everything — no issues found. Reassembled using anti-seize on the threads for easier future adjustments.
This bracket kit allows you to install Gen 1 2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V 4 piston calipers onto the front of your 1989-1994 Nissan 240sx using a 324mm (12.75″) 350z track pack rotor.
I pulled the BBK off the i30krab, and with the help of Victor Dragos we identified it as a Brembo GT JR big brake kit, using 2-piece Brembo 13″ rotors. These rotors were commonly used on VW, Porsche, and Audi applications.
Calipers & Adapter: The calipers are radial mount, and a Brembo-marked adapter (with part and serial number visible in the pics) was used to fit the Nissan application. The caliper mounting holes are 130mm apart. The adapter bolted up with no modifications to the knuckle.
Fitment Mods: The brake dust shield had to be removed for clearance. Steel braided brake lines were also added.
Wheel Fitment: On the i30krab, the kit cleared 17″ Volk wheels. On my current setup, 18″ wheels with +35 offset clear with room to spare.
Caliper Work: I painted the calipers with two layers of G2 epoxy paint. I actually split the calipers during the process (not really recommended). While doing that, I had to replace the separator O-ring for the brake fluid transfer port. I lost one and ended up sourcing replacements — New Provisions Racing O-rings for 2004–2017 STI Brembos worked perfectly.
Overall, this is a great kit. I’m still researching more details since some info I gathered came from old sale posts, so specs may vary slightly depending on the exact kit.
BC Coilovers w/10k Swift Springs also true rear style coilover (one piece). Also all new tires 255/35/19 and running 10.5 Nismos all around.
Man these BC’s with Swift springs ride soooooo good. Alignment dialed in perfect. A little lower than my usual ride height but I’m going to ride at this height for awhile to see how it does.
Finally got around to doing the BBK upgrade with stainless steel lines—big thanks to Roger McGee Sr. for the help. Went with R1 Concepts drilled & slotted rotors paired with ceramic pads. Also added some fresh Nissan text decals and finished the calipers in gold, which really pops against the crimson black.
First time doing brakes, and I went with R1 Concepts drilled and slotted rotors paired with ceramic brake pads. I also tried something a little different with the calipers to give them a unique look. The ride feels very smooth now, with strong stopping power and no more vibrations at high speeds. Next up, I’m getting ready to add some new shoes to finish off the setup.
Over the past couple of months, I have received several requests to post information on the sub-frame spacer modification. It has taken a couple of months to try several different products and approaches to finally settle on a method that I feel comfortable sharing.
All total I must have spent $400 on an assortment of poly bushings, washers, ceramic magnets, and spacers to finally reach an approach where the modification can be repeated in the $90 to $100 per vehicle range. Since I paid $90 for the original set of spacers that I’m replacing with a hopefully better product, I think it will be worth it. I want this modification to last for several years.
This modification uses a combination of parts from the following vehicles:
1998 Maxima GLE – Recently converted to SE suspension. Note initially this modification was made to the stock GLE sub-frame. Later the 98 GLE was converted to use the triangular sub-frame braces from a 97 SE. Pictures of how the bushings look in both the stock GLE and upgraded SE type suspension are provided.
The suspension uses H&R Lowering springs with Koni STR-T orange struts. New Lower Control Arms (LCA) with end links, poly bushings, inner/outer tie rod ends have been installed. The mod was installed on a vehicle with basically a new front suspension. This car already had a very tight suspension before the modification was made. It just tightened it up a bit more.
1999 Maxima SE – This is the 2nd installation where I used this modification.
This vehicle’s suspension was replaced approximately 3 years ago with H&R lowering springs, KYB AGX struts, new Lower Control Arms (LCA) with end links, poly bushings, inner/outer tie rod ends have been installed. This is the 2nd time that subframe spacers have been used on this vehicle. The original mod was installed on a vehicle with basically a new front suspension. The 2nd (enhanced) modification was made after the 1st modification’s parts worked loose and fell out after approximately 2 years of use. Note this car also had a very tight suspension before the modification. This modification just tightened it up a bit more.
Post Installation Pictures
Front 300ZX Aluminum Subframe Spacer with PRG Delrin Titan/Armada spacer and flat washer.
Space between the sub-frame mount post and the body results in a loose sloppy feel when driving over rough places in the road and lowers the amount of feedback from the rack to the driver.
Also, when the sub-frame upper post rubs against the body it can make a creaking noise.
Roughly 3 years ago, I purchased a set of plastic spacers to tighten subframe movement. Unfortunately, the upper spacers were not thick enough to completely stop the movement. Since the upper spacers are C-shaped, the upper rears spacers eventually worked loose and fell out on the street somewhere.
The old spacers helped after the initial installation. Since I could see the gap that remained between sub-frame post and the body would eventually allow the upper C-shaped collar to fall out. So I had to use Gorilla Tape as a temporary measure to wrap the area until I could come up with a tighter solution.
Looking back, I could have stacked up additional washers on the bottom post to remove slack. By then, I had already lost one of the rear spacers. Unfortunately, I just did not have a solution at the time when I realized the old spacers were too loose. Since the spacers are no longer available and the seller was not responding to email when I attempted to buy another set, I decided to find a repeatable solution using a combination common parts from other platforms.
Old to New Parts Comparison
The old parts are in the upper row.
Comparing the Perrin rear lower bushing to the original lower spacer.
Here’s a picture of the new Perrin 4268 bushing that is used on a Subaru WRX compared to the old rear lower spacer. The Perrin bushing is definitely thicker and is capable of absorbing shock that may be transmitted to the rear part of the sub-frame.
Cost Summary
Aluminum 300ZX subframe spacers $25 to $28 depending on color. Shipping free from eBay sellers.
PRG Delrin Titan spacers (set of two) $20 + shipping
Perrin 4268 WRX bushings ~$10 + shipping.
Fastenal 33098 Washers $1 to $2 x 2 = $4 high
Harbor Freight Step Drill Bit $16 (with a 20% off coupon) to $20
Rough Estimate Total $90 to $100 depending on shipping costs.
Parts Sources
Perrin WRX Bushings Part Number 4268
Send an email to Thomas at the following email address: Sales@perrinperformance.com
Approximate cost is $5 each + Shipping.
There is a full set for the WRX that contains bushings that are not needed on the perrinperformance.com site. I was able to get Perrin agree to sell only part 4268 to Maxima owners.
300ZX Aluminum Subframe Spacers
Multiple eBay sellers – Prices vary based by color. Just search for 300ZX aluminum sub-frame spacers and go for the best deal.
Red – http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Sub…RYbvZO&vxp=mtr
Silver (I bought silver because I didn’t want a color to get scratched off during installation.)
I actually purchased and tried six different types of industrial washers before settling on the on this particular washer. This was the only washer that has the best fit around the inner subframe bushing stalk and matches the 1.250” ID (after bore) on the Delrin Titan spacer.
NOTE: The washer is listed as 1 – 1/8 ID but you can see it actually has a larger ID.
Washer Inner Diameter
Washer Outer Diameter
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/33098
PRG Delrin Titan Spacers
Approximate Cost $20 for a set of two.
PRG Products Nissan Titan & Armada lower control arm Delrin spacer kit. The factory bushing design has a significant gap between the end of the bushing and the pivot mount. This gap allows the lower control arm to move forward and rearward under braking and acceleration. In some cases this movement leads to a clunk when the vehicle is driven over uneven road surfaces. The PRG Products Delrin Spacer Kit acts as a bushing between these two surfaces which helps to eliminate the gap. By eliminating the gap these spacers can reduce clunking and also make handling more precise.
Update: 2/27/2016 – PerformanceLifts.com has agreed to sell the spacers in sets of two to the Maxima Community for $20.
Until PerformanceLifts.com posts a part number for the Maxima set on their site, you can email Sales@PerformanceLifts.com and reference Maxima.org set (2) of the following part.
Note the Inner Diameter must be bored out to 1.250″ to clear and fit around the old sub-frame bushing post. I use the Harbor Freight stepped drill bit listed below.
Harbor Freight
Warrior Titanium Nitride Coated High-Speed Steel Step Bit Set 2 Pc
Approximate Cost: $20 – I used a 20% off coupon that brought the price to $16 + Tax
Note: Other methods to bore out the Delrin Titan Spacer to 1.250” or 31mm will work fine.
Use the 1-¼ INCH bit to bore out the Delrin Titan Spacer
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece…lls-96275.html
Harbor Freight 24″ Tire Iron
This $5.99 Harbor Freight Tire Iron worked best for wedging in between the rear subframe mount area and the body to “open a gap” so the aluminum collar can be inserted. It came in handy when I needed to push the down on the subframe during installation.
Tools: 19mm socket for sub-frame mount bolts – for SE models there are two 14mm bolts that hold the additional support plate to the body.
Perrin Bushing Location – SE Suspension
Perrin Bushing Location – non-SE suspension
Rear Spacer
You will need to use a pry bar to push the sub-frame downward and away from the body so the sub-frame collar can slide over and into the sub-frame mount position. Remove both rear sub-frame 19mm bolts and loosen the fronts to provide ample clearance for sliding the aluminum collars into position. This was relatively easy the passenger side but required more effort on the driver side. Where you insert the pry bar depends on the size and length of the bar.
Here’s a picture of the location where I inserted the pry bar at the rear of the sub-frame to push it down so the C collars (front and rear) would slip around the old rubber mount. It is not necessary to cut the old rubber mount or to widen the opening of the C collar after the sub-frame has been pushed down and out of the way using a pry bar for installation. Using this approach allows the new C collars to fit tight around the old rubber post bushing so they will not fall out.
After you slide the new C collar into position, be sure to center the spacer so the most contact is made between the spacer and the upper part of the sub-frame mount post before tightening the 19mm nut on the sub-frame post stud bolt.
Front Spacer
Like the rear, a pry bar will need to be used to push the sub-frame down far enough for the aluminum collar to clear the sub-frame post. The 19mm bolt and square washer will need to be loosened and removed so the sub-frame post can be lowered enough to allow the collar to clear the upper mount post.
Note on the driver side, I could not get enough clearance for the collar to slide around the post. I used a rubber hammer and tapped the collar into position. Since the inner post is made from rubber, it won’t hurt it. Once the post has been cleared, the collar will be loose for adjustment and final tightening like you see in the picture below.
Note that the PRG Delrin Titan spacers will need to be bored out to an Inside Diameter of 1-1/4 inch.
Use care and wear eye protection when operating a drill and performing this operation to bore out the spacer. How you choose to secure the spacer while boring out the hold will depend on your skill level, and tools available. I used a small drill press vice to hold the spacer in place while I drilled out the ID. I could have used vice grips to clamp the spacer while holding it down. Be sure to stop periodically to clear away shreds of plastic remnants from the sides of the spacer that will appear as you start to bore out the ID.
Disclaimer
This mod should be only used for experimental AutoX track type vehicles that operate on smooth road surfaces where the driver needs maximum feedback from the suspension to make quick decisions while driving a slalom type competition course.
If you drive on rough unpaved roads, cobblestone streets, and traverse large potholes often, then depending on your tire/rim size, you may find the direct feel between the sub-frame and the body to be harsh, uncomfortable, and hard to handle.
For example, this modification on the 98 model with 17″ wheels and 235/45 tires has a completely different feel when compared to the 99 model with 18″ rims and low profile tires. A normal driver would find this modification on the 99 model, with an already stiff suspension, to be too harsh for anything other than smooth interstate driving.
So consider this modification at your own risk.
After 5,000+ miles of use on the 99 model SE, here are a couple of pictures to check on on how the bushings are holding up. So far so good.
Rear
Front
Over a year later and we’re in July of 2018. The spacers are still working.
Ryan Watson got some new 370Z/G37 Akebono 4Piston 14” Rotor Upgrades with StopTech SS lines on his 2004 Infiniti Q45. Today ima show you step by step on how to do this upgrade to your F50 (This applies to all 2002-2006 Q45’s).
Parts needed for the swap are:
2009+ 370Z or 2009+ G37 Akebono Sport calipers.
2009+ 370Z or 2009+ G37 Sport Rotors
2009+ 370Z or 2009+ G37 Sport SS Brake lines.
350Z/G35 Akebono Caliper Brake Adapters
Brake Fluid
Brake Cleaner
I set up the picture in reverse order from Finish to Start. So you wanna start off by:
Remove the 2 – 14mm bolts holding your stock calipers on to your rotor brackets. Then slide the Caliper off and put them to the side.
Remove your stock brake pads. (some people leave them on and just remove the whole rotor bracket off with them.
Use a 22mm or 7/8 socket/wrench to remove the 2 – 22mm bolts holding on to your rotor brackets off your spindle. Then remove the bracket all together.
Remove the Rotors (11.4” inch diameter rotor).
Before putting on the brake calipers adapter, you will need to setup your washers. Each bolt uses 1 crush washer. The brake adapter comes with 2 washers for each spindle bolt.
Mount your brake caliper adapters on using the new hardware supplied.
THIS PART IS IMPORTANT, the kit only comes with 2 washer per spindle bolt. YOU WILL NEED 3 WASHERS IN ORDER TO MAKE THE ADAPTER FLUSH WITH YOUR SPINDLE! RE-USE THE WASHER THATS ON YOUR 22mm SPINDLE NUT! (from step #3). THE WASHERS GO BEHIND THE SPINDLE, INBETWEEN ADAPTER AND SPINDLE. If your vehicle did not have the washer, you will need to get a 3rd washer. (If you do not add the 3rd washer the caliper won’t be aligned to the spindle and it will make your rotors scrape the caliper and a loud grinding noise).
There is a Half Moon included in the kit. You will have to Align the half moon with the caliper to properly mount the caliper on to the Adapter. You will do this by mounting the caliper WITHOUT THE ROTOR. Then tighten the 22mm bolt on.
The Adapter comes with a shorter bolt, the shorter bolts goes on the bottom bolt for the Spindle.
Bend and push the Heat shield. Just far back enough so it doesn’t rub against the rotor.
Install your Rotors. (14” inch diameter rotor)
Install your calipers using the new bolts with the adapter kit.
Remove the C Clíp on your brake line hardline.
Separate the Soft brake line from your Hard brake line by using a 10mm wrench.
Install your new SS 370Z/G37 brake like on your Hard Brake line using a 10mm wrench and 12mm on the caliper side. 2 copper washers on each side of the Banjo bolt.
Install your brake pads, Brake pad hardware, pins and clips.
Bleed all 4 brake calipers starting from the back passenger side, back driver side, Front passenger side and finally front driver side. (The Akebono calipers has 2 bleeders. Start bleeding the outside bleeder first and then bleed the inside closest to the engine last.)
Use Brake cleaner to clean your rotors from any grease on your fingers that may have gotten on the rotors.
Enjoy your new Akebono brakes!
Remove the 2 – 14mm bolts holding your stock calipers on to your rotor brackets. Then slide the Caliper off and put them to the side.
Side by Side comparison of the old F50 setup with the new Akebono Calipers and rotors.
Bleed all 4 brake calipers starting from the back passenger side, back driver side, Front passenger side and finally front driver side. (The Akebono calipers has 2 bleeders. Start bleeding the outside bleeder first and then bleed the inside closest to the engine last.)
Install your brake pads, Brake pad hardware, pins and clips.
Install your new SS 370Z/G37 brake like on your Hard Brake line using a 10mm wrench on the hard line and 12mm on the caliper side. 2 copper washers on each side of the Banjo bolt.
Remove the C Clíp on your brake line hardline. Separate the Soft brake line from your Hard brake line by using a 10mm wrench.
There is a Half Moon included in the kit. You will have to Align the half moon with the caliper to properly mount the caliper on to the Adapter. You will do this by mounting the caliper WITHOUT THE ROTOR. Then tighten the 22mm bolt on.
Mount your brake caliper adapters on using the new hardware supplied.
Mount the caliper without the rotor so you can align the half moon spacer. The Adapter comes with a shorter bolt, the shorter bolts goes on the bottom Bolt for the Spindle.
THIS PART IS IMPORTANT, the kit only comes with 2 washer per spindle bolt. YOU WILL NEED 3 WASHERS IN ORDER TO MAKE THE ADAPTER FLUSH WITH YOUR SPINDLE! RE-USE THE WASHER THATS ON YOUR 22mm SPINDLE NUT! (from step #3). THE WASHERS GO BEHIND THE SPINDLE, INBETWEEN ADAPTER AND SPINDLE. If your vehicle did not have the washer, you will need to get a 3rd washer. (If you do not add the 3rd washer the caliper won’t be aligned to the spindle and it will make your rotors scrape the caliper and a loud grinding noise).
Before putting on the brake calipers adapter, you will need to setup your washers. Each bolt uses 1 crush washer. The brake adapter comes with 2 washers for each spindle bolt. See less
Bend and push the Heat shield. Just far back enough so it doesn’t rub against the rotor.
Remove the Rotors (11.4” inch diameter rotor).
Remove your stock brake pads. (some people leave them on and just remove the whole rotor bracket off with them.
Use a 22mm or 7/8 socket/wrench to remove the 2 – 22mm bolts holding on to your rotor brackets off your spindle. Then remove the bracket all together.
Calipers were painted Anodized Gold using High Temp Paint.
Calipers started the painting process with high temp primer.
Test Fitting the calipers on a different F50 prior to paint caliper painting.
Each Caliper Adapter bracket is mark “L” and “R” for each side.
The 3 washers go BEHIND the spindle.
See in this picture the caliper Adapter brackets does not line up with the spindle using the 2 washers provided in the kit. You have add a 3rd washer to line it up with the spindle.
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