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Suspension, Handling & Brakes

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Article Credit: EddyMaxx

The videos below show you the best way to remove and replace your ABS actuator pump. It is very important that you use the SAME EXACT part number as your old one to avoid any issues. You can find them used on eBay or junkyard. I was getting code C1111 NISSAN – ABS Pump Motor. I used an ABS code reader to get the codes.

I picked up a working used ABS actuator from a friend for $100 bucks. It took me about 2 1/2 hours to get the job done. I removed the windshield wipers and the plastic/metal window cowl. This provided better access. Make sure you use a 10MM Flare Wrench to avoid stripping any of the lines. It not a very difficult job. In my opinion, the most time consuming part was having to re-bleed all the brakes again.

My Symptoms:

  • ABS Light came on
  • Trouble Code: C1111 NISSAN – ABS Pump Motor
  • ABS Actuator stayed on after the car is off for a few minutes
  • ABS was activating under normal regular driving

This is what it looks like when you remove the Window Cowl.

And there is goes. 

Old (Left) / Replacement (Right)

This is the part number for my car 47660 7Y002. It’s a 2004 Nissan Maxima with a 4-Speed Automatic Transmission. It needs to be the same exact for your car otherwise you may have issues.

Notes (From Member alchemist.zim):

  1. Find someone with an ABS scanner, and get ALL ABS CODES. There is no point in replacing just the pump if any of your sensors are bad as well
  2. If you do think you need to replace the ABS pump relay make sure you get the correct part number which can be found on the top of the part.
  3. A brand new one from Nissan is gonna run you $1000+. Junkyard prices start at $100 on eBay. If you decide to get a used part make sure it comes with a warranty.
  4. Have plenty of time to devote to the actual repair work. Its gonna take a minimum of 4 hours to do
  5. Unless you plan on dropping the engine, your gonna have to remove the intake manifold. The ABS pump is located on the passenger side firewall, and there is virtually no room to work in there
  6. Take pictures of where all of the lines, and sensors go. Everything becomes a blur when your all done, but you have 1 line loose, and you don’t know where it goes.
  7. BE EXTRA CAREFUL WITH ALL HARD LINES NEAR THE PUMP. You may think they are sturdy, but they really aren’t meant to be moved to much. If something breaks you in for a bad time

ABS Pump/Relay

Click the image to open in full size.

Part# (The part number is located on the metal part of the pump directly in the center, the 2nd line of numbers)

Click the image to open in full size.

ABS Fuse (In the event the ABS Actuator is draining your battery and you cannot fix it right away, this is the fuse you need to remove)

As I’ve stated, before this my ABS pump would stay on as long as the fuse was in place. I removed the ABS fuse located next to the battery to prevent the pump from draining my battery.

!!!WARNING!!! This fuse also controls you power locks, windows, sunroof, trunk lock and turn signals from what I tell. It is a red combination fuse with 3 different fuses in it, with a clear plastic cover on top. You can try it up with a screw driver on the side. Don’t try to use pliers to lift it up or you’ll break a piece of the fuse cover like I did.

Repair Videos

1 – Window Cowl Removal

2- Harness Plug Removal

3 – ABS Actuator Swap

my4dsc: 160

Member Credit: 95BLKMAX

I wanted bigger brakes, but I didnt want to spend a fortune (as much as one would spend, say for a Z32 upgrade, or the 6th gen rotors with Z32 calipers, etc…) for just front brakes. Plus I dont autoX, I just do alot of highway spirited driving; so I wanted a beefier setup that wouldnt break the bank.

Parts / Cost:

  • Calipers and caliper mounting brackets used- $100
  • RPT plated/ X-Drilled Rotors, Axxis Metal Master Pads, 2 liters of ATE Blue Racing Fluid- $185shipped
  • Ubber Drill Bit- $35
  • Bolts and lockwashers- ~$10

SPECS – (Per 1995 FSM and 2003 FSM)

4th gen Rotors (mm/ inches)
280×22/ 11.02×0.87

5.5 gen Rotors (mm/ inches)
296×24/ 11.65×0.94

4th gen Caliper Pot (mm/ inches)
57.2/ 2.252

5.5 gen Caliper Pot (mm/ inches)
57.2/ 2.252

HOW TO- (I write this assuming you already know how to do a brake job, this how to made with attention to the work specifically related to the conversion process of being able to install these bigger brakes)-

Remove wheels, calipers (disconnect the lines from them but have a bottle near, they will leak alot of fluid), caliper mounting brackets and pads

Have this ubber drill bit…

It cost me $35 locally at a “nothing but nuts and bolts- specialized hardware store (Mitchell Supply Company) also 4 of these Metric bolts with lock washers (stock 4th gen on left, new 5.5gen on right)…

I bought them so long ago I dont recall the specs, so just go to the hardware store with the caliper mounting bracket for thme to check * With the Ubber drill bit, drill out the two holes on the hub. Try your best to keep it straight. Go slow with the bit at first because if it gets caught up, the drill WILL fling around and it could cause bodily harm depending of how strong of a drill you have. Once it started boring the hole out just go downtown on them. They should look like this afterwards…

Make a few cuts along the shield’s overlap up to the vertical part and with pliers bend the overlap up to vertical. The 5.5gen rotors wont fit otherwise…

Now with that done, the installation is the exact same as a normal brake job, only that you’re using the 5.5 gen parts. Hook up the lines and you will have to bleed ALL 4 calipers. At least with me, I let so much fluid drain that air got into the master cylinder, thus my line for the rear brakes had air, so I had to bleed all 4 corners. Break them in and enjoy the noticeably improved braking over that of the 4th gen parts.

 

 

my4dsc: 11

Member Credit: Mikkellucci

I purchased the Akebono calipers, pads, etc. However, I just couldn’t go thru with adding that much unnecessary rotor weight to my car. And I’m talking about the Z1 “light weight” 2 piece ($1300) front and rear rotors. Even those add a ton of F/R weight because they are so large in diameter.

I decided to go my own route. I started working on a light weight solution using 350z rear Brembos and 2 piece rotors. The front will use 350z 2 piece rotors and a larger Brembo caliper from a genesis track spec.

2016 Maxima OEM
Front – 320 x 28 (22.5 lbs)
Rear – 307 x 16 (12.8 lbs)

G37/370z w/ Akebonos
Front – 355mm x 32mm (30.60 lbs)
Rear – 350mm x 20mm (20.9 lbs”)
Rront 2 piece = 21 lbs
Rear 2 piece = 16 lbs

350z w/ Brembos
Front – 324mm x 30mm (20.5 lbs)
Rear – 322mm x 22mm (17 lbs)
Front 2 piece = 15 lbs
Rear 2 piece = 13 lbs

my4dsc: 43

Member Credit: Nperez1986 /  Jonthon Rubia

If you are looking to upgrade to the Akebono 4-Piston BBK from a Nissan 370z / Infiniti G37 Sport, you now have the option to use 300ZX (Z32) caliper adapter brackets on eBay. The bracket themselves are $70 bucks shipped. In order for this to work, you will need to use the Mitsubishi Evo X GSR 13.78″ (350 MM) rotors versus the Z34/V36 rotors (354 MM) rotors. The rotors themselves can be found for super cheap as well.

Brackets / Rotors work on the following:

  • 2002-2006 Altima (Front/Rear)
  • 2005-2006  Altima SE-R (Front/Rear)
  • 2004-2008 6thgen Maxima (Front/Rear)
  •  2000-2003 5thgen Maxima (Front ONLY)
  • 1995-1999 4thgen Maxima  (Front ONLY)

Notes: For the 4thgen Nissan Maxima, you will need to enlarge the (4) holes in the knuckles to accommodate for bigger caliper bracket bolts. Aside from that it will work fine. Just keep in mind that this is ONLY for the front calipers. Rears will not fit on the 4thgens / 5thgens. 

Link to Brackets: https://ebay.us/sCjKnm

eBay Actual Description: Front Akebono Big Brake Caliper Rotor Upgrade Adapter Bracket For 300ZX Z32

Once the calipers are on the car you only need to trim the dust shield in the lower mounting area. Photo’s below:

Nperez1986 below is demonstrating that the calipers and bracket will bolt on the front knuckles with no modifications. 

my4dsc: 354

Member Credit: Twin001

Both the Nissan 370Z and the Infiniti G37 calipers are the same size, simply done in different colors respectively.  They both will interchange 100% with each other, and all hardware remains the same for both calipers.  

Size:

  • Front caliper: 4-pot
  • Rear caliper: 2-pot
  • Front rotor: 355mm / 14″
  • Rear rotor: 332mm / 13.8″

Weight:

  • Hardware, front: 2 lbs (reuse existing rear hardware)
  • Front Calipers: 10-11 lbs each
  • Rear Calipers: 5-6 lbs each
  • Front Rotors (14″ Stoptech Slotted): 27 lbs each
  • Rear Rotors (13.8″ Stoptech Slotted): 18 lbs each

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my4dsc: 423

Member Credit: Gar Magat

To compare Stabilizer Bar Link between Moog and Genuine Nissan Link ( both are New Parts)

1. Moog is thicker but the movement of the link ball is tight and erratic. (RECOMMENDED)

2. Genuine OEM Link : is thinner ,but the movement of link ball is tight and smooth on all angle.

I bought the Moog link on ES site for $15.99 each compare to OEM for $49.99 at courtesyparts.com

my4dsc: 101

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my4dsc: 897