Suspension, Handling & Brakes


Member Credit: Nperez1986 /  Jonthon Rubia

If you are looking to upgrade to the Akebono 4-Piston BBK from a Nissan 370z / Infiniti G37 Sport, you now have the option to use 300ZX (Z32) caliper adapter brackets on eBay. The bracket themselves are $70 bucks shipped. In order for this to work, you will need to use the Mitsubishi Evo X GSR 13.78″ (350 MM) rotors versus the Z34/V36 rotors (354 MM) rotors. The rotors themselves can be found for super cheap as well.

Brackets / Rotors work on the following:

  • 2002-2006 Altima (Front/Rear)
  • 2005-2006  Altima SE-R (Front/Rear)
  • 2004-2008 6thgen Maxima (Front/Rear)
  •  2000-2003 5thgen Maxima (Front ONLY)
  • 1995-1999 4thgen Maxima  (Front ONLY)

Notes: For the 4thgen Nissan Maxima, you will need to enlarge the (4) holes in the knuckles to accommodate for bigger caliper bracket bolts. Aside from that it will work fine. Just keep in mind that this is ONLY for the front calipers. Rears will not fit on the 4thgens / 5thgens. 

Link to Brackets: https://ebay.us/sCjKnm

eBay Actual Description: Front Akebono Big Brake Caliper Rotor Upgrade Adapter Bracket For 300ZX Z32

Once the calipers are on the car you only need to trim the dust shield in the lower mounting area. Photo’s below:

Nperez1986 below is demonstrating that the calipers and bracket will bolt on the front knuckles with no modifications. 

Member Credit: Twin001

Both the Nissan 370Z and the Infiniti G37 calipers are the same size, simply done in different colors respectively.  They both will interchange 100% with each other, and all hardware remains the same for both calipers.  


  • Front caliper: 4-pot
  • Rear caliper: 2-pot
  • Front rotor: 355mm / 14″
  • Rear rotor: 332mm / 13.8″


  • Hardware, front: 2 lbs (reuse existing rear hardware)
  • Front Calipers: 10-11 lbs each
  • Rear Calipers: 5-6 lbs each
  • Front Rotors (14″ Stoptech Slotted): 27 lbs each
  • Rear Rotors (13.8″ Stoptech Slotted): 18 lbs each

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Article Credit: EddyMaxx

The videos below show you the best way to remove and replace your ABS actuator. It is very important that you use the SAME EXACT part number as your old one to avoid any issues. You can find them used on eBay or junkyard. I was getting code C1111 NISSAN – ABS Pump Motor. I used an ABS code reader to get the codes.

I picked up a working used ABS actuator from a friend for $100 bucks. It took me about 2 1/2 hours to get the job done. I removed the windshield wipers and the plastic/metal window cowl. This provided better access. Make sure you use a 10MM Flare Wrench to avoid stripping any of the lines. It not a very difficult job. In my opinion, the most time consuming part was having to re-bleed all the brakes again.

My Symptoms:

  • ABS Light came on
  • Trouble Code: C1111 NISSAN – ABS Pump Motor
  • ABS Actuator stayed on after the car is off for a few minutes
  • ABS was activating under normal regular driving

This is what it looks like when you remove the Window Cowl.

And there is goes. 

Old (Left) / Replacement (Right)

Notes (From Member alchemist.zim):

  1. Find someone with an ABS scanner, and get ALL ABS CODES. There is no point in replacing just the pump if any of your sensors are bad as well
  2. If you do think you need to replace the ABS pump relay make sure you get the correct part number which can be found on the top of the part.
  3. A brand new one from Nissan is gonna run you $1000+. Junkyard prices start at $100 on eBay. If you decide to get a used part make sure it comes with a warranty.
  4. Have plenty of time to devote to the actual repair work. Its gonna take a minimum of 4 hours to do
  5. Unless you plan on dropping the engine, your gonna have to remove the intake manifold. The ABS pump is located on the passenger side firewall, and there is virtually no room to work in there
  6. Take pictures of where all of the lines, and sensors go. Everything becomes a blur when your all done, but you have 1 line loose, and you don’t know where it goes.
  7. BE EXTRA CAREFUL WITH ALL HARD LINES NEAR THE PUMP. You may think they are sturdy, but they really aren’t meant to be moved to much. If something breaks you in for a bad time

ABS Pump/Relay

Click the image to open in full size.

Part# (The part number is located on the metal part of the pump directly in the center, the 2nd line of numbers)

Click the image to open in full size.

ABS Fuse (In the event the ABS Actuator is draining your battery and you cannot fix it right away, this is the fuse you need to remove)

As I’ve stated, before this my ABS pump would stay on as long as the fuse was in place. I removed the ABS fuse located next to the battery to prevent the pump from draining my battery.

!!!WARNING!!! This fuse also controls you power locks, windows, sunroof, trunk lock and turn signals from what I tell. It is a red combination fuse with 3 different fuses in it, with a clear plastic cover on top.

Click the image to open in full size.

Repair Videos

1 – Window Cowl Removal

2- Harness Plug Removal

3 – ABS Actuator Swap

Member Credit: Gar Magat

To compare Stabilizer Bar Link between Moog and Genuine Nissan Link ( both are New Parts)

1. Moog is thicker but the movement of the link ball is tight and erratic. (RECOMMENDED)

2. Genuine OEM Link : is thinner ,but the movement of link ball is tight and smooth on all angle.

I bought the Moog link on ES site for $15.99 each compare to OEM for $49.99 at courtesyparts.com

Featuring the popular brands like BC Racing, Tein, JIC, Megan Racing, KSports,  D2 Racing, Truhart and many others.

Gallery of Maxima’s with upgraded Big Brake Kits (BBK).

Member Credit: cfr94

This installation process is for a set of Eibach Suspension Springs Pro Kit 6369.140 with 2.0″ drop in front & 0.8″ drop in rear.

REAR END: 20-30 minutes

Tools Needed: Air rachet or air gun, 18mm socket 3/4″ open wrench & adjustable floor jack

These instructions are bases on having a hydraulic lift

  1. Loosen lug nuts
  2. Raise car
  3. Take tires off
  4. Place adjustable floor jack just under the lower control arm to where it rests with just a little pressure to keep it inplace
  5. Remove nut & bolt
  6. Lower floor jack until completely out of the way (The spring will NOT shoot out as you lower jack)
  7. Push down on lower control arm & remove the OE spring
  8. Use the OE “lower” bushing with new Eibach spring
  9. Install new spring with lower OE bushing ensuring you line up the bottom of the spring with the ‘stop’ in the lower control arm.
  10. Raise arm back into place
  11. Put nut & bolt back in place
  12. Once back in place & secured, remove floor jack & proceed to other side.

FRONT END: 2-3 hours depending on experience

TOOLS NEEDED: Air ratchet or air gun, 17mm socket, 3/4″ open wrench

You have 2 bolts that hold the brake in, 1 bolt for your upper control arm, your brake hose ‘clip’ & 2 small rubber grommets

Remove all of these parts (bolts, nuts, grommets, etc)

Then go into the engine bay & remove the 3 bolts (14mm I think) that hold your strut in place. If you have a FSTB, you’ll have to remove this also. Do one side at a time!

6. Remember how your strut arm looks when you pull it out. It’s best to mark each item with a straight line using a permanent marker as shown below after you remove it.

7. Now take it to the spring compressor & compress the spring.

8. Tighten the spring down in the compressor, unbolt the top bolt & remove everything.
9. Be sure you install the new bushing and dust cover before you compress the spring back together.

10. Line up the new springs in the coil & compress it just enough to place the bolt back on.


11. Before front drop: 29″

12. After front drop: 27″

13. Before rear drop: 27 5/8″

14. After rear drop: 27″



Member Credit: lightonthehill

Why is it important to have wheels properly torqued?

Overtorquing wheels can damage alloy wheels, snap lugs, and can also make it very difficult to remove a wheel with the standard Maxima tire wrench should you have a flat in the middle of the night in the middle of nowhere.

Unevenly torqued wheels can easily result in damage to brake rotors. Undertorqued wheels can result in your having to pay for the cow killed by your wheel as it zips across the meadow.


As soon as convenient after taking delivery of your Maxima, and after every instance when anyone has removed any wheel for whatever purpose (such as tire rotation or brake work/adjustment). Nissan also recommends that the wheels on a new Maxima should be retorqued at around 600 miles. If you did not do this, but the wheels have not yet been off your Maxima, please consider doing it soon..


As folks who work on your car are generally only concerned with making sure your wheels don’t fall off, the universal trend is to overtorque. Partially in view of the same concern, manufacturers tend to overstate the amount of torque needed for cars. Here is an example: 70 foot pounds of torque would easily be sufficient for the 6th gen Maxima. ‘Erring’ on the cautious side, Nissan recommends 80 foot pounds. My ’04 SL was actually delivered with from 87 to 96 foot pounds on every lug nut.

I have kept my wheels torqued at 75 foot pounds for over a decade. My son has used 70 foot pounds on all his vehicles for almost twenty years. Less venturesome souls should still torque to no more than Nissan specs (80 foot pounds).


Ignore the ‘flex’ wrenches; they are not accurate. Stick to ratchet (click) wrenches. Ignore the ‘inch pound’ wrenches; they are not for wheels. Stick with ‘foot pound’ wrenches. It may be possible to torque Maxima wheels with a 3/8″ drive torque wrench, but I would never torque wheels with anything but a 1/2″ drive wrench.

Torque wrenches are sensitive instruments, and should not be abused. They are one of the few tools Craftsman will not back with a lifetime warranty; they cover them for only one year. But with proper care, and an occasional recalibration, they should last decades.

I use Craftsman (Sears), but others such as Kobalt (Lowes) and Rigid/Husky (Home Depot) are probably comparable. Expect to pay from $60 to $80 for a top grade wrench, unless you have a coupon or hit a sale.


Read the directions accompanying the wrench very carefully. Not all wrenches are alike. One common setting method is to twist the grip until the cursor is on the ‘tens’ marker (such as 70 or 80 or 90) at or below your desired setting. Then twist the ‘fine selector’ collar until the exact pound you want is centered on the scale.

For 75 foot pounds, we turn the grip until the cursor reaches 70, then turn the ‘fine selector’ collar until its cursor reads 5.

For 80 foot pounds, we turn the grip until the cursor reaches 80, then set the ‘fine selector’ collar to 0.

Once we have the desired foot pounds set, we must turn the ‘locking collar’, else the setting will not hold during use of the wrench.


Use ONLY DEEP SET (LONG) socket, otherwise an extension is needed. Unless you are fumbling with a 3/8″ drive torque wrench (a no-no), the socket must be 1/2″ drive. The OEM lug nuts on ALL 6th gen Maximas are 13/16ths”. Although a 6 point socket (6 coves inside opening) is preferable for wheel work, most deep set sockets come with 12 points, and these work fine for torqueing.

Many Nissan dealers put one locking lug nut on each wheel. For reasons that escape me, the coded socket furnished to turn these locking lug nuts has a drive end that requires a socket slightly larger than the 13/16th” of the regular lug nuts. I bypass this problem by using a 21mm deep set metric socket, which works well with both the 13/16ths lug nuts and the drive of the locking lug nut socket. If we carefully measure the tire tool that comes with the Maxima, we find it is actually 21mm, not 13/16th”. Just another Nissan quirk . . .


Mount wheel onto hub. Hand-tighten all lug nuts. Use Maxima OEM tire wrench (the torque wrench may also be used for this) to VERY LIGHTLY snug the lug nuts.

Lower the car until the tire has good contact with the ground/floor. Torque each lug nut to specs (Nissan says 80 foot pounds, I use 75). IT IS IMPORTANT (for the wheel, rotor, etc) to torque the lug nuts in one of these two ‘across-the-hub’ orders: 1-3-5-2-4 or 1-4-2-5-3. Either of these orders may be used in either a clockwise or counterclockwise direction. In order to keep things simple, I always consider the lug nut nearest the valve stem as #1, and number clockwise.

When using the torque wrench, apply a steady pressure, using only the grip, and being alert for the ‘click’ and sudden slight slippage that tells us the appropriate torque has been reached. Release pressure on the wrench immediately, as further pressure takes the torque past the desired setting. Never slip a pipe or other ‘extender’ over the handle to ‘make things easier’.

Starting the torquing with the handle at the ‘4 oclock’ position works best for me. That enables the pressure to be applied in a natural downward direction, and reduces chances of damage to the car if anything slips.


Read the last two paragraphs in the preceeding proceedure (Torqueing While Mounting Wheels). Car should be setting on ground/floor, which does not have to be level. Using the Maxima OEM tire tool (or other suitable wrench or breaker bar), loosen a lug nut slightly. Torque that nut to the desired foot pound setting. Proceed to the next lug nut.

In this procedure, it is not necessary to follow the ‘across-the-hub’ torqueing order given above for mounting wheels, although I still use it from habit.

Member Credit: Viper Vadim

I’ve seen plenty of 6th gen brake swaps into 4th/5th gens but I’ve never seen them modified to clear 16in rims.

I have 16s, spring and stuts, I plow through potholes in NYC, I’m never going to drive low and SLOW and avoid all potholes like some others with huge rims and lowered cars.  With that being said, I needed bigger brakes to help me SLOW down better.

I already had 11″ 2000 Max rotors and 4 piston wilwood dynalite calipers.
good for 60-0mph stops, but doesn’t fare too well with repeated high speed braking (100mph+)

so back to the drawing board I went – The result is this thread

old brake setup: 2000 Maxima(thicker than 95-99) 11″ rotor with dynalite 4-piston wilwoods

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they clear 15s with no problem!
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OLD setup vs New (11″ rotor vs 12.6″ rotor)

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Here’s where the fun begins:

To put 6th gen brakes into a 4th gen you need to enlarge the caliper mounting holes on the spindles.

Stock is 12mm
Need to enlarge holes to 14mm

So I got spare spindles, drilled them out, replaced wheel bearings, and cut off the heat/splash shields to clear bigger rotor.

I mounted the 6gen rotor and caliper to spindle with a wheel spacer to hold it in and test the fitment on 16s.

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It didn’t fit so time to bring out the grinder!
I grinded off the following parts of the caliper:

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and then grinded some more and some more..

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and then test fit it
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and got it down to this
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once it cleared without issues I painted them
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old SS brake lines were all nasty and weathered so: New Goodridge SS brake lines
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I did not need to use wheel spacers – they fit under the rims

SO TIIIIIIIIIGHT!!! I love it!!!
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Braking is greatly improved. Had this setup since the end of summer and no rubbing, no issues just good brakes.

How do they compare to the Wilwood’s?
The wilwood’s did have a better initial bite (4 piston clamp vs 1 piston) but when you step on the 6thgens they just hold and hold like no tomorrow. Wilwood’s would hold until a certain point and then start slipping (rotors gets hot)

For a typical drive around there’s no difference in braking 50-0, but when you push the car hard repeatedly, or braking from high speeds – they perform very well.


Member Credit: Eddy

Ok guys after seeing pictures of a 6thgen totaled because they didn’t have OEM G37s wheel lugs…. I’ve decided to make this thread hoping that it never happens to anyone. It almost happened to me but I was quick to get it to place the broken studs and get G37s OEM wheel lugs.

Even if you torque the lugs as much as you can to the extreme…..its pointless because the G37s wheels use a washer type lug. The regular ones will cause the lug hole to expand causing it to break. I know because I have G37s wheels and when I first put them on to drive to home… they got a bit loose.. So please keep that in mind. I would hate to see this happen to anyone else.

Look at the differences below


G37s OEM Lugs
Click the image to open in full size.
Standard Lugs


This is what can happen if you don’t use G37s Washer Lugs or Equivalent on your 6thgen!!

Photos Courtesy of Savage77