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Interior, Exterior & Lighting

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Credit: BestPCReviews

LED Side mirrors are a nice luxury looking upgrade for any car, well, most of cars. If you put these kinds of mirrors on an old corolla or a civic, it’s gonna look like your mirrors cost more than your car. The mirrors are pricey, but definitely better quality than $30 led mirrors you can find on eBay. Read the full review. I’ll explain you more about the mirrors, and how to install these or any other mirrors on Infiniti i35.

I’ll start by where I ordered it and how much it cost. I ordered the mirrors from www.thespeedline.com , for now you won’t be able to find the mirrors in the catalog. You have to actually e-mail them and tell them what car you have, code of your car color (if you want them to paint your mirrors), and what mirrors you want. As far as I know, they have auto folding mirrors and manual folding mirrors. Manual folding mirrors are $60 cheaper and since I live in Florida, I don’t deal with traffic that much and I don’t think my mirrors will ever be hit in parking lots here. I believe auto-folding mirrors are better for cities like New York where it’s tough to find a parking spot and even if you will find one, it will be too small.

Now the prices:

  • The manual folding mirrors cost $180
  • The auto folding mirrors cost $240
  • The painting cost $50
  • The shipping cost $35

By the way, you can find your paint code on the firewall under the hood of your car.

When I ordered my mirrors, I had to wait about a month. TheSpeedLine.com told me that it was first time they ordered the manual folding mirrors, so I had to wait for someone to make them. I am still not sure who exactly makes the mirrors, they are not OEM and not Cefyro based on my understanding, however, the quality is good. The glass in the mirrors is great, its little blue and tinted so that you won’t be blinded from cars behind you, but if you have tinted windows, the tinted side mirrors won’t do much help, may be it will be even worse. On top of the tinted mirrors, the glass was made so that there won’t be a blind spot. Both of these functions are good, but it took me about a week to get used to them.

Turn signal and ground light are the reason why I brought the mirrors. I like the way the look, it gives the car even nicer luxurious look, however, you will not notice ground light on daytime at all. When it’s light outside, turning lights are definitely dimmer than stock turn signals on a car, but are still visible. At night the turn signals and ground lights look great.

By now you should know the price, quality, and how the mirrors look in action, so you should of made up you mind if you want those or not. If you not, thanks for reading this far. If you do, you have to install them too, and it’s not an easy installation. It took me about 4 hours, but I had to figure everything out. You will have complete installation guide with pictures, what a lucky guy or girl you are!

Installation

One of the easiest steps in the installation is to install the mirrors. The hardest part is pushing the wires around. Now you have some idea of troubles you will encounter. I’ll explain the driver’s side installation first. Open the driver’s door. You have to take out the door trim. Take out door handle, windows switch, and other parts shown in the pictures.

After all that is removed, pry out the door trim. You will have to disconnect about 3 connectors once you take out the door trim. After you disconnect them, leave your door panel somewhere to rest.

First disconnect connector that goes to the mirror. On the other side of your stock mirrors, you will see a plastic wall. Pry out the wall, inside you will see three bolts. Take them out with 10mm socket. Once all bolts are removed, just take the side mirror out of the door. Take the brand new led mirror and put it in the place where stock mirror used to be. Secure it with three bolts. You will see that LED Mirror have another 2 black wires hanging outside of a plug, I contacted SpeedLine regarding that, but did not get response. I did not use the wires at all and just left them at the location.

As you can see, putting in the mirror is extremely easy, now the hard part. The new mirrors came with four wires that you need to push in the car’s interior. You probably think that all you have to do is remove the flex that goes to the car from the door, but you will be disappointed to find out that it’s not just a flex. From door to car goes a flex that turns into plug where it hits the body of a car. That’s sad, but don’t give up. You will need 10mm (I believe) wrench tool to take the flex/plug out. Do it. It will take forever, but you have to do it.

Once you take it out. Look at the body of the car where the plug was. Little further away, you will see grommet. Take the grommet out with a flat screwdriver. Don’t drop the grommet, if you, you will have to look for it somewhere close to fender, but I dropped two when I was working on it so don’t worry. It will just take a little longer to do the job if you gonna spend couple minutes getting the grommet out. Once you got the grommet, drill a hole in the middle, make sure its tight but good enough to push four wires through it.

Take the flex/plug and next to the plug make a hole with strippers or whatever you have. Make sure its big enough to push four wires. Now the tough part, find somewhere strong wire, I used 12awg wire. Put it in the flex/plug and send it to the door. Make sure the wire is long enough. Once the other side coming from the door, take the four wires for the mirrors and attach them to the 12awg wire. I used electrical tape and turned the 12awg wire so that it’s securely attached to the four wires. It’s called fish tape, if you never heard of it before. Pull the 12awg wire back so that from the flex/plug there will be four wires coming out. On the other end of the four wires there is a plug, attach it to your led mirror

Disconnect the 12awg wire from four led mirror wires and push four wires through the grommet. Once you do that, attach the 12awg wire again and push it through the hole next to the plug at the body of the car. Find the wires inside the interior and pull it all in. Close the grommet and lock up the plug. That’s it, I believe that was the hardest part.

Do exactly the same with the passenger side. Everything will be about the same, except that you will have to take the glove box out to pull the wires all the way to the driver’s side. Take out glove box is pretty easy. There are two screws under the glove box and four on top. Take it out, push all the wires through to the drivers side. By the way, you might want to take out the driver’s side wall. I am talking about the wall under steering wheel. There are two screws at the bottom, take them out and pull the wall, it should come out.

Ground light
The best place to attach the ground light is to dome light. That’s what we gonna do here. Take black and yellow wires and push them to a driver’s side pillar. Connect yellow to red/green wire and black to a red wire. After the connection, close the pillar. Your ground lights should work now.

Turning signals
Push red and white wires under the hood. There is a big grommet between drivers side and engine. If you don’t want to have messy looking connections next to your turn signals, do the following.
Ground the white wires through the battery negative terminal. Connect the red connections to the stock turn signals using Posi-Tap connectors.

That’s it. You might want to buy some type of flex and more wires because it’s not enough of red wire to go from passenger side mirror to driver’s side, then to the battery and then to the passenger side turn signal, so definitely get more wires. Also, you don’t want to push little wire around the engine, I would recommend you to buy some plastic flex and put the red wire inside.

Now, if you want to contact the seller, here is e-mail to get in touch with them
service@thespeedline.com.

Quick update:

In case any of you did those mirrors before, if you want to wire the signals under the steering wheel, connect negative wires (white) to terminal 64 , left positive mirror wire to terminal 47 (green black), and right positive mirror wire to terminal 48 (green yellow).

There is possiblity that you will have to switch 47 and 48 around incase it will work opposite way.

That way you’ll take four wires away from your under your hood.

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Member Credit: EddyMaxx

I wanted my cluster to match the rest of the LEDs in my 1998 Maxima. I liked the blue color so I ordered those. The install was pretty straight-forward and the final outcome is awesome. I’m going to sand down the orange on the needle for a clear look.

Special thanks to Brad Conner for the assist! You can find his install instructions here.

Part Number: NEO5-BHP (This is only for 1998-1999 Digital Clusters. For 1995-1997, you need T10/194 bulbs bulbs)

Order Link: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/instrument-cluster-gauge/neox-led-bulb-high-power-instrument-panel-led/221/998/

The LEDs

Before Pics

Back Side of Cluster

These are the 5 bulbs to change to the NEO5-BHP bulbs.

Note: These LED bulbs are polarized. If a specific bulb does not light up, you will have to adjust it. It took me a few tries but I finally got them all working. Make sure they are secured as you adjust them so that they don’t fall out if you hit a speed bump. Also, it’s recommended to fully test the cluster with new bulbs installed before putting everything back in.

New LED Bulbs Installed

Final Result. Next step is to sand down the red on needles for a better look.

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Community Member Credit: EddyMaxx

I decided to finally swap out my full interior to an Elite Edition. Given I was re-doing everything, I purchased a brand new carpet. Below are the details:

Part Number: 10022
Order Link:
https://www.stockinteriors.com/AutoCarpet.asp?Itemid=10022&ModelId=319
Price: $257.45 (Includes Mass Backing @ $64.00, Shipping @ $40.90, Discount $11.40)

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Community Member Credit: PAREDLINE

For all of you with a seat motor that doesn’t go forward or back- I fixed mine today. It finally got on my nerves enough. I didn’t take pictures but while it’s fresh I will summarize. There is nothing wrong with the motor itself. What happens is one of the contacts inside the motor bends and doesn’t make contact with the shaft. As a result of this, the motor doesn’t work. The first thing you need to do is get the seat off.

Step 1: If the seat is in a position where you cant get access to the bolts do the following:

From the back seat, the floor look under your driver seat. You will see (or feel) two screw shafts going from the front to back. About 1/3 of the way back from the front you will see a 10mm bolt on each side.

Remove this bolt on each side. It might be a little tricky because you cant really see it but you can probably feel it. I used an open-end ratcheting wrench to remove mine.

Once you do this, the seat will move forward and backward freely.

Step 2: Remove the seat bolts. 2 in front. 2 in back.

Step 3: You don’t need to remove the seat. What you will need to do is rest the seat on its back so the bottom is facing the front of the car.

Step 4: If you haven’t done step 1 yet. Do it now.

Step 5: The motor that’s in the front of the seat is the one you have to fix. Give it a few taps. See if it works now. Chances are it will. Only you’re not done. You will see a motor with a shaft that runs from left to right. 90 degrees to the screw shafts.

Step 6: There are 4 Philips screws on each side of the front of the seat. Remove these screws. The motor should drop out of the mechanism along with the horizontal shaft and the screw shafts. If it does not drop out, you unbolted the wrong bolts.

Step 7: Take the entire thing to a clean working spot. Loosen the 3 screws holding the motor together. Take the metal cover off the motor. Inside is a magnet so you will have to pull a little.

Step 8: Once the cover is off, pull on the shaft of the motor so it disengages

Step 9: You will see two metal contacts near the base of where the shaft is inserted into the drive mechanism (the thing you just pulled out)

Chances are one or both of these contacts are not making contact with the shaft.

They both should be in contact with the shaft for the motor to work. Simply bend the one that’s deformed back towards the center.

Step 10: Reassemble everything with the motor. You can clean out the inside but don’t use anything that’s too strong that it will strip the lubrication.

Step 11: On each of the screw shafts there is a mounting site where the shaft mounts to the actual seat. These must be in the same location on each side of the seat or else the seat will be crooked.

To ensure you assemble them in the same location (it gets a little tricky here) first screw them by hand so that both sides are on the bottom (furthest away from the motor).

Then turn both of them 5 turns toward the front. or 3 turns or 7. Just turn them both the same amount.

Step 12: Reassemble the entire assembly back onto the bottom of the seat.

Step 13: Reattach the 4 Phillips bolts on each side

Step 14: Reattach the harness to the seat motor.

Step 15: Using a helper, one person holds both of the mounting sites on the screw shafts while another one presses the button to move the seatback. This will move the mounts back to where they mount onto the seat.

Replace the 10mm bolts you removed and make sure the location of the mounts along the screw shaft is exactly the same on both sides.

Step 16: Replace the seat and bolts. Everything should be working.

I had no idea what I was doing in the beginning so I removed the seat back and the airbag harness was there. I disconnected that. I don’t know if it’s essential. I would do that just to be extra safe.

Additional Reference Notes:

  • My seat would move in every direction except forward-backward.
  • When you push the button for the seat bottom do you hear a click underneath the seat? That’s the relay box. If you don’t hear the click that’s probably your problem.
  • The front-back problem is so prevalent that Nissan/Infiniti actually put out a TSB on the subject. Of course, they want you to replace the seat motor and screw rails for $245 (part) plus 2 hours of labor.
  • If your seat bottom is not moving at all, you may have 3 bad motors (unlikely). A bad switch or the relay box is bad (I don’t know the official name for the relay box but that’s what it is. A box of relays). You might even want to check if power and ground are going to the motors. There are a series of harnesses under the seat and unfortunately, you can’t get to them unless you remove the seat and prop it up on its back.

Additional Member Info (Credit: dubious)

Well – After manhandling the plastic trim enough, I was able to get it out of the way to get most of the screws out. The top screw closest to the console ended up getting stripped. After a few choice words, I found that I could separate the flex shaft from the motor housing and remove only the side that was attached to the motor.

Here’s a pic of one side removed from the seat.

Here’s the unit w/ motor cover removed.

Here are the metal contacts (brushes) from step 9.

You can see how the bottom brush is barely making contact. This is the piece you’ll want to “tweak” to make better contact with the shaft or “commutator”. You’ll want to clean the shaft/commutator and brushes as much as possible to remove carbon buildup that will inhibit electrical contact. Alcohol or electrical contact cleaner works well.

Put everything back together and works great.

I thought about doing this a while back – even started removing the seat bolts…just couldn’t figure out how to get to the back bolts. Removing the bolts in step 1 to allow free motion of the seat was the trick.

Additional Member Info (Credit: farhanm)

I used this and the TSB diagrams to open up my 2003 maxima driver side power seat. The problem was that the seat only moved from one track. the left side track( towards the door) didn’t move. Anyways so I opened up the motor and assembly to find out that the plastic cog that’s suppose to make the worm gear move is all messed up. Therefore the motor turns but since the cog is messed up, the worm gear doesn’t move and the seat doesn’t slide.

I was wondering if I could just replace the plastic cog. everything else is fine. here’s the picture of the cog I am talking about.

They do sell the plastic cog. It fixed my 2 yr. broken seat. The dealership wanted $1100 to fix. It should have been $500 if you replace the motor and screw assembly. The plastic cog is $40 (pretty high for a 39 cent plastic part but is the cheapest option.

If you figure out that you need gears, here is a link: https://www.odometergears.com/products/Infiniti/Seat+Gears+%28ALL%29+01-Present/98

There is a motor kit for the back and forth sliding that I think is still available.

  • # 87562-C9926 for memory seat, the cost is around $360 online plus s&h
  • # 87562-C9927 for a non-memory seat, the cost is around $260 online plus s&h

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Community Member Credit: The Wizard

These are full leather Corbeau A4 seats. I splurged for the double locking sliders for aesthetic reasons and ease of adjustability. The double-locking sliders added $20 (each) to the cost of the bracket.

  • Each seat was $500
  • Each bracket was $80 (including the double locking slider) Plus shipping.
  • All in all, it was around $1250

They feel great and hold me very well during aggressive driving…. and my car smells like a brand new car. Gotta love leather when it’s brand new!

On with the pics. Here’s the seat itself.

Here’s a picture of the bracket with a double locking slider the way it came originally.

After I installed the seat, and with the seat in the utmost forward position, I couldn’t push the clutch in comfortably. With the seat all the way back, it almost touched the back seats! So I took matters into my own hands, cut off the brackets, moved the bracketry up 3.25 inches, and rewelded. See pic.

All done and repainted.

Seat Bealt Mount

Here’s a comparison pic. outside of the car.

Comparison pic inside the car

Another angle

Both seats installed

Other 4thgen Installations

 

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