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Member Credit: Metal Maxima

Alright, as my final HOW-TO on the .org, I am going to be detailing how one can black out your headlights and add the newly coveted Audi LED effect to your headlights. Without much adeiu, let’s begin!

ITEMS NEEDED:

  • Flexible LED strips from Oznium ($40)
  • Amazing Goop from Home Depot ($4)
  • About 5 hours…this is actually a pretty quick mod

STEP #1
Remove headlights. I am not going to detail this, there are two screws to remove that are exposed at the bumper level then just pull out…HARD.

STEP #2
You’re going to need to remove some hardware from the headlights before beginning. All rubber components, bulbs, and any screws that will come out. One universal item the bulbous thingie that was a beotch to remove in the previous step.

STEP #3
Obtain a flat baking sheet and a large towel. Wet the towel so it’s wet, but not dripping wet. Drape across the entire length of the sheet. TEST FIT THE SHEET WITH THE HEADLIGHT IN POSITION. Once you’re comfortable with the fit, preheat the oven to 250F. Place the headlight facing UP.

STEP #4
Bake for 10-12 minutes, ONE AT A TIME. Feel free to nervously pace the kitchen floor. *DING* That’s the sound of opportunity! Take your headlight out. I recommend using leather gloves, you’ll need the dexterity. Start by removing the two screws where the bulbous thing is…they are easier to remove once the adhesive is at working temp. Pry your headlight apart by using a flathead screwdriver to pry the mechanical attachment points open. Then pull…I only did 10 minutes and pulled…hard.

STEP #5
Remove the chrome components from the body. Here’s a shot of the only two screws for the 5th gen. The 5.5 gen will have more, sorry, I have limited pics of the 5.5gen. NOTE: Your lens portion will need to be warm for the 5th gen shroud to be removed; this allows proper expansion…believe me, it ain’t coming out otherwise.

You’re going to want to tape the chrome sections you want to retain. This is actually easier then it sounds. Use small pieces when going around the corners. TIP: Take the tape and slowly walk it across the contours…you will have 0 difficulties if you do so.

STEP #6
Paint using Duplicolor’s High Temp Engine Enamel. Do 3 coats; two light coats at about 12″ distance, very quickly. Do a third “wet” coat; you can do multiple light coats, but I’ve used close to 100 cans of spray, so I have an unfortunate familiarity with how it behaves. Allow 2 hours cure time, then peel away.

STEP #7
Cut your LED strip to size and attach it using the double-sided tape included. One the 5th gen, you’ll use 21 LEDs. The 5.5 gen is considerably more, just cut to size. NOTE: The array on the strip is in denominations of 3, so you must have a multiple of 3 in order for the full length to light!!! (i.e. 36, 33, 30, etc.)

STEP #8
Drill a small hole to allow for wire passage…I did mine as seen here on the 5th gen…I recommend going toward the turn signal as it is less readily seen below:

STEP #9
Now this is what I consider to be the hardest step. In order to properly reseal, we need to reuse the existing sealant. SO, back in the oven we go…ONLY PLACING THE LENS AND BODY IN THE OVEN. Do so at 250F for 10 minutes. You’re going to want to leave the body face up as the channels will likely contain the largest portion of sealant. Remove when the adhesive is glossy, meaning it’s at working temp.

STEP #10
While everything is hot, QUICKLY reassemble. Be confident, you can do it. You’ll need to do this for the proper seal. Push the body and lens together, making sure the mechanical tabs properly latch. Route the wire behind the lens shroud, you can drill your own hole or use the vent line aperture.

STEP #11
*WHEW*, ok, so you got the lenses probably 80% sealed. Time for some GOOP! Add some extra sealant, we’ve done all this work and don’t want to blow it now.

STEP #12
FIRE IT UP! Test with a 9V to enjoy the awesome effect. These things are BRIGHT!

 

my4dsc: 36

Member Credit: EddyMaxx (Thanks to Alejandro Filpo for the Relay Recommendation)

Initially, I was going to do resistors on my 2002 5thgen Maxima which has the infamous hyper blinking turn signals. This happened after installing LED bulbs on Taillights. I personally do not like the hyper flash and wanted to get rid of it. Alejandro recommended an easier approach which simply just required changing the Flasher Relay. This is way better than the resistors (as you know resistors can get very hot).

Very simple plug-n-play swap!

eBay Description: 3-Pin Car Flasher Relay LED Light Turn Signal Hyper Flash CF13 JL-02 EP34 NEW
Price: $3-5 Bucks
Order Link: https://ebay.us/XSdG4Q

You basically just need to swap the one below labeled “Turn Signal Flasher” with the one from above and you are all set.

my4dsc: 460

Member Credit: Shift_Ice

Tools:

  • Dremel with a cutting tool
  • Oven
  • Small flathead screwdriver
  • Torx bit (on some models) – otherwise metric socket (size unknown)
  • Old towels
  • Channel locks
  • Purchase clear lens from Home Depot or frosted lens from Tap Plastics (contact info below):
    Tap Plastics Inc
    4538 Auburn Bl
    Sacramento, CA 95814

Clear Leans from Tap Plastics
1. Remove headlight from the vehicle. Take care not to scratch the fender with the metal mounting pin.

2. Remove bulbs and ballast from headlight. The ballast has a yellow and orange sticker in the picture below. It is attached with 3 screws.

To remove the HID bulb, rotate the plastic cover counterclockwise. Then squeeze the 2 metal pins toward each other. Take care not to touch the bulb!

3. Bake headlight in the oven on cookie sheet for 15-20 minutes at 200 – 250 degrees. The scary part:

4. Remove headlight from the oven with old towels (will be very hot)

5. Remove amber lens carefully. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pop lens out of tabs. Silver tabs are visible below.

6. Use the amber lens to trace onto the clear lens

7. Cut out the clear lens with Dremel. Lens from Tap Plastics comes pre-cut and drops right into place.

8. Install clear lens taking care to ensure that it fits snug under the tabs. If the lens is a little loose, apply 90-second epoxy lightly around the edge to assure a tight fit

9. Reassemble headlight as best you can and return headlight to oven

10. Bake for 15-20 minutes at 200 – 250 degrees

11. Remove from oven with old towels (will be very hot)

12. Use channel locks to assure a tight seal

13. Reinstall headlight

14. To produce a clear effect and retain amber blinking, I suggest using a chrome blinker bulb:

I purchased mine from autolumination. Alternatively, you can create your own by spraying the stock bulb with a light misting of silver paint.

15. Enjoy. The finished product:

my4dsc: 120

Member Credit: Shift_Ice / EddyMaxx

You can find these online using the part number. There are other manufacturers as well. I find this to be a simpler option in getting rid of the orange lens on the headlights. Gives the headlights a much cleaner look.

Part Number: ML11P2
Part Description: Intermatic Malibu ML11P2 Floodlights
Price: $20-$30 (Set of Two)

How-to Article: https://www.my4dsc.com/how-to-clear-the-orange-blinker-lens-on-5thgen-maxima-headlights/

Before

After

my4dsc: 190

Member Credit: Angel Peña, Jose Rivera & Azeem Malik

When you first glance at the 2019 Nissan Maxima, you’ll quickly take notice of the updated exterior headlights and tail lights. Now if you already own a 2016-2018 8thgen you’ve likely already asked the big question…. will the 2019+ Maxima headlights and tail lights fit my car? Below is what you need to know:

Front: The headlights do fit fine. But as noted in the pics below, there is a small gap under between the bumper and headlight. But the good news is that if you swap the bumper, headlights and grille… you will be all set. This is exactly how the 04-06 6thgen Maxima’s swapped to the 07-08 refreshed bumper and headlights. It also appears you may get a “headlight error” on the dash after the swap. When we get more info, we will update this post on how to resolve it.

Rear: Direct Fit. Plug-n-Play. Will not throw any error codes.

Note: For the rear, you may need to get some resistors to avoid hyper-flashing if you have upgraded LED bulbs. Resistors are just a few bucks and a quick fix. You can get the on eBay for $5-$6 bucks. Search for 50W 6ohm Load Resistors. The headlights themselves are around $800-$1K for the full set.

Part Numbers:

Front:

  • 26545-9DJ0A – Backup Lamp Assembly-Left-Hand
  • 26540-9DJ0A – Backup Lamp Assembly-Right-Hand

Rear (Total Approx. $740):

  • 26545-9DJ0A – Backup Lamp Assembly-Left-Hand (Approx. Price: $130.00)
  • 26540-9DJ0A – Backup Lamp Assembly-Right-Hand (Approx. Price: $130.00)
  • 26555-9DJ0A – Combination Lamp Assembly-Rear, Left-Hand (Approx. Price $240.00)
  • 26550-9DJ0A – Combination Lamp Assembly-Rear, Right-Hand (Approx. Price $240.00)

Front Headlights

Original

Swapped to 2019 Headlights with 2016 Bumper

Here you will notice the small gap.

With Full 2019 Conversion… Much Better and perfect fitment:

Rear Tail Lights
Original 

Swapped to 2019 Tail Lights. Direct fit and plug-n-play. 

Video’s of Rear Tail Lights by Jose Rivera

my4dsc: 3876

The following directions can be utilized in the replacement of HID bulbs in the 2002-2003 Maxima. These instructions cannot be utilized with other years of the Nissan Maxima. One person can accomplish this task with no no problems. Please view pictures with steps for additional detailed information.

Tools needed: 10mm deep socket or wrench

The 2002 and 2003 Maxima utilize D2R HID bulbs. These bulbs fit into the headlight housings in a certain direction based off the key as seen in the picture. Bulb orientation has the bulbs power wire in the “down” position, thus this “bar” will be on the bottom when installed.

When handling the bulbs, DO NOT touch the bulb as oil from your fingers will shorten their life.

Step 1. Disconnect the battery. I chose to disconnect the negative battery terminal. Due to the tight confines within the engine bay, the drivers side is tight and will require the battery to be moved unless you have hands the size of a child. Using the 10mm socket or wrench, loosen the two nuts from the battery tie-down. One loose enough, you can disconnect the hooks and move the battery out of the way. This will give enough space to work. On the passenger side, there is nothing to move. You simply have to work around the windshield washer tube.

Step 2. The HID bulb has a sealed cover (utilizing a rubber O-ring). To remove this cover, twist counter clockwise to release and you will be able to remove it. Cover Removed

Step 3. Once the HID cover is removed, you will have access to the socket. To remove the socket from the HID bulb, twist counter clockwise and pull backward. You may need to wiggle it somewhat but it will disengage.

Step 4. The most difficult part of the installation seems to be figuring out how to disengage the retaining ring from the HID bulbs. Per the diagram, you will need to depress each “hooked” end of the ring inward (toward the front) and slide inward to toward the bulb. Once each side is done, the bulb will loosen up and you will be able to remove it. Do not touch the bulbs. Picture of retaining clips

Step 5. Time to install the new bulbs. Remove the bulbs from their packaging without touching the glass section. To install the bulbs, use one hand to hold the retaining clip out of the way (it is hinged from the top) and slide the bulb in. It is easiest to insert the bulb with the “power wire” on the bottom as this should align the bulbs key. Once inserted, twist the bulb slightly left and right to ensure it is in. Move the retaining clip over the bulb and re-engage each end of the clip.

Step 6. Reinstall the socket but leave the cover off. Once both new bulbs are installed, temporarily reconnect the negative battery post and turn on the headlights to make sure both bulbs are functioning appropriately. If all is well, reinstall the HID covers and Remount the battery (remember to tighten down the negative battery post).

my4dsc: 595

Member Credit: dafertilizer

Passenger Side Light Overall Wiring

High Beam
Red connector is connected to the 2K harness green wire as shown in the next photo

The blue connector is wired to the blue wire that I put there, it is the power wire from the 2K harness, it powers both the high beam and the HID.

Turn Signal
The right side wire from the Grey plug on headlight, is for the running light, and connects to the brown/red wire in the turn signal plug.

The right side wire of the brown turn signal plug connects to the ground (black wire) on the car turn signal plug, and the left side wire of the brown turn signal plug connects to the green power wire on the car plug.

The middle wire coming out of the the center grey plug is connected to a chassis ground, and the picture got cut off, so you cannot see the left wire of the grey plug is connected to the same blue power wire that the high beam light is connected to here:

The right side wire from the Grey plug on headlight, is for the running light, and connects to the brown/red wire in the turn signal plug.

The right side wire of the brown turn signal plug connects to the ground (black wire) on the car turn signal plug, and the left side wire of the brown turn signal plug connects to the green power wire on the car plug.

my4dsc: 160