Exterior Body


Community Member Credit: EnervinE

Figured I’d do a write-up because there’s next to no information about this procedure on this site. That, and a shop wanted $350 to remove and install – talk about a joke.

This is generally regarded as an extremely frustrating, time-consuming, impossible procedure, but in reality it’s quite easy if you know what you’re doing and you use a couple tricks I discovered. The driver’s side, since I had no idea what I was doing, took me roughly four hours of work, along with many bruises and foul words uttered. However, the passenger’s side, even with taking all of these pictures, only took me about an hour.

Following these instructions, I’d say this job’s about a 3 out of 10 on a difficulty scale. Don’t let a shop gouge you for this job, you can do it without much trouble.


Flathead screwdriver
Small and large Phillips head screwdrivers
10 mm socket and extension
10 mm wrench
Optional: Magnetic grabber (bolts like to fall out of your hands and into the door crevices…this helps.)

Okay, let’s get started!

FRONT DOOR1. Make sure the window is rolled up before beginning work.

2. Remove all accessories on the inner door panel. Pop the handle trim off with a flathead. Be gentle, as it will snap with too much force. Remove the cup handle’s screw and pop it out. Use a flathead to remove the window switch. Undo the connector and set it aside. Remove the light’s lens, remove the two screws, and undo the connector.

3. Remove the two screws on the bottom of the door panel.
4. Remove the door panel. It is held in by a bunch of snap-in pieces that Nissan likes to use everywhere. Lift it upwards and away and set it aside with all of its accessories. (note: the driver’s side has an extra connector on the back for the trunk popper. Remove it.)

5. You should now be looking at the door with the panel removed.

6. Start peeling away the weather covering. It is sealed with a black goop. Try to conserve the integrity of the goop so you don’t have to apply more sealant when you replace the covering.

7. Peel away enough to give you some room to work with.

8. Remove the bolts highlighted in the picture below – 5 in total. Push the middle bar downwards and out of the way.

9. Remove the lower bolt holding this metal piece in and remove it.

10. Unclip the whiteish-yellow piece holding the two bars in place. Move the assembly downward and out of the way.

11. Remove the left nut holding the handle in place.

12. Use the 10 mm wrench to remove the right nut holding the handle in place.

13. Pull out the bar inserted into the handle, shown removed below:

14. Remove the handle from the outside.

15. Examine the replacement handle. Make sure it operates correctly and has everything installed on the reverse side.

16. Insert the handle most of the way into the door.

17. On the back side, line up the bracket for the keyhole with the bolt on the back of the handle. It won’t go all of the way through yet, as the keyhole is not inserted into the handle.

18. I found that the keyhole is almost impossible to push into the handle. I figured out the best way to do it is to take your key and insert it into the keyhole and turn it left. This locks the key in the hole, enabling you to pull it through the handle.

19. You can now thread and tighten the right nut, which will pull the keyhole all of the way through. Don’t forget to remove your key afterwards! Reinstall the left nut and insert the latch rod back into the handle.

20. MAKE SURE THE HANDLE WORKS before continuing work. If it doesn’t, recheck that the latch rod is installed correctly.

21. Reinstall the removed metal plate. Move the large metal bracket back upwards and reinstall all bolts. Don’t forget to re-fasten the white-ish yellow bar guide.

22. Double check that everything has been re-installed, then replace the weather covering. Make sure the sealant is applied so no water can get through.

23. Reinstall the door panel and all accessories.

24. You’re done with the front side!


Some steps here are similar to the front door procedure – if instructions are vague, refer to steps above.
1. Make sure the window is rolled up before beginning work.

2. Remove all accessories on the inner door panel. Remove door panel and set aside with accessories.

3. Peel away the majority of the weather covering – you’ll need a lot of room to work.

4. Remove the three bolts holding the inner handle in place.

5. Unclip the black plastic guide and remove the bars.

6. You can access the left nut holding the outer handle in place with the socket and extension. Remove it.

7. Remove the three screws holding the latch assembly on the side of the door.

8. Remove the bolt highlighted in the below picture. The latch and rod assembly will come loose.

9. Remove the black “child safety” plastic piece. If the latch and rod assembly is moved to the side enough, the right nut for the handle will be visible through this hole. Remove it with the socket and extension.

10. Remove the handle, with the latch rod, through the other side.

11. Examine the new handle. Make sure the handle operates. Make sure it contains the latch rod – if not, install the one from the old handle.

12. Fit the new handle into the door.

13. Reinstall the right nut through the child safety hole. Move the latch and rod assembly if needed to install the left nut.

14. Remove the 4 bolts holding in the large metal bracket and push it downwards, out of the way.

15. Reinstall this bolt into the assembly finger tight to hold the assembly in place.

16. Here’s where it gets tricky. Remember the latch rod that goes from the outer handle to the latch and makes the outer handle work? That couldn’t be installed until now because the left and right nuts for the handle had to be installed first. This has to be done by feel, and it helps to have a long arm. Stick your arm along the bottom of the door, upwards until you feel the latch rod. Grab it, then feel around for a lever with a hole in it. Push this lever down and insert the rod into the hole. It’s too far back to get a picture, but feel around and you can get it.

The proper way to run your arm up there:

17. Once the latch rod is in place, reinstall the three screws for the latch.

18. MAKE SURE THE HANDLE WORKS before continuing work. If it doesn’t, recheck that the latch rod is installed correctly.

19. Re-tighten the bolt you hand-tightened. Replace the inner rods in the black keeper and snap it shut. Reinstall the three bolts for the inner handle. Replace the large metal bracket and install the 4 bolts. Make sure all screws and bolts are reinstalled and tight.

20. Replace the weather covering.

21. Reinstall the door panel and accessories.

22. You’re done with the rear side!



Community Member Credit: O.Moore

Order Link: https://gromaudio.com/store/vline/nissan-infiniti-2010-2017-vline-android-iphone-infotainment-system-navigation-upgrade.html
Price: $600.00

What does this do?

  • VLine Infotainment System is a smart computer that connects to the back of your Nissan Infiniti stereo and fully integrates into Nissan Infiniti infotainment system and display without compromising or affecting Nissan Infiniti factory functionality.
  • Music Apps and Plugins: VLine VL2 for Nissan Infiniti can play any music app as available in Google Play Store. However, all VLine systems have built-in app plugins to create a unified environment with large display fonts and graphics for ease of use while driving. Plugins include Spotify, Pandora, Google Music and Web Radio (VLine own radio app that is similar to TuneIn). AM/FM Radio is also available under Web Radio plugin.
  • Other apps: Install any app available at Google Play store or sideload your preferred app. Note that not all apps are optimized for driving. Install safely and responsibly.
  • WiFi Connectivity: WiFi connectivity is required to use the majority of VLine apps and Maps. VLine can connect to the internet via WiFi either using Smartphone internet tethering or standalone mobile data hotspot/modem and data plan.
  • Bluetooth: Bluetooth A2DP music streaming is available for most Smartphones with cover art and title support.

Community Member Credit: Neo Raven456

Alright, so I know this isn’t a complicated procedure, but a lot of people like to know exactly what they’re getting into when they go to do a mod. I’m one of those people. I had found a tutorial before, but it seems it has gone offline or I can’t find it anymore. So I decided to take pictures and write one up while I did the mod myself.

Time: 5-10 min.

What you need:

  • Clear Bumper Lenses
  • Two 1156 Amber Bulbs
  • Two 194 Amber Bulbs

And these tools:

Step 1) Take off the outer light housing using the 1/4 Flathead Screwdriver wrapped in the cloth. Pry from the left side of the housing because the clip is on the right.

Step 2) Unscrew the one Phillips head screw holding the inner housing as seen in the above picture.

Step 3) Remove lights from housings, simply grab the Grey connector and twist, then remove.

*Note* Some states require amber bulbs (NJ does not) to be installed as well since our stock ones are clear, if this does not apply go to Step 4:

Step 3a) For the outer bulbs simply pull the bulb and it comes out

Step 3b) For the inner bulbs twist, then pull

Step 4) Reverse what you just did and your done!

Stock vs Clear

Final Product with clear bulbs

Final product with Ambers

Community Member Credit: gtr_rider

I was able to get a hold of an A32 lip spoiler which is really designed for the 1st gen I30. I was going to give it a try and put it on my A32 Maxima(1995-1999). To my surprised when it came to my door, it was way more flexible than I imagined it to be. That making it a plus because install would be more easier to perform. I put it flush with the very edge of the trunk, and aligned each corner to extend a little past the edge(slightly longer on each side). Masked off the line on the trunk for later placement, rubbed some alcohol along the area and put the lip down. Looks amazing, and I encourage those spoiler-less Maxima owners to pick one up.


Community Member Credit: angryfx

1- Take the 6 clips out of the grill.


2- The grill is now free but there are 4 clips that are attached towards the radiator that you use
a plier to take out…. close up of the clip…


3-the holes were where the clips were held in place to the bumper.


4-the headlights are held by 4 screws. 2 on top and 2 at thhe bottom… one behind the front bumper
and the other behind the wheel wells.




5-to remove the bumper you will have to remove 10-15 bolts depending on how many you have under the car
by the bottom plastic cover… but you have to remove 2 screws that hold the bumper to the fender…on each side..



hard to get a nice pic so these are some supporting pics..

6- once you unbolt these 2 bolts then you will see that the bumper will kinda wobble… they are still
held in place by 2 clips right under the headlight housing… if you pull the bumper you will see them.




7- when pulling on them be careful i broke 1 of the clips but when putting them back in i found it
not to be bi issue with just 1 clip instead of 2 but still be careful…

8- with the bumper off or hanging by 1 or 2 screws at the bottom… you can now access the bolt under
the headlight. this shoul be the last bolt to remove… unplug all th electrical harnesses/wiring…
take em out gently…





9- once you take the headlights out you can now exchange the ballast (3 screws) held in under the headlight.
and the light bulbs..(unclip the metal pin and take the bulbs out..


this is the ballast ( i didnt know until today)


now take the silver holder out by twistin like a regular bulb


you will see the rear side of the bulb


unclip thes metal sprins by pushing them with your thumb n finger n open the latch….


10- do it to the other side and put the bulbs and the ballasts back in …..



11- if you are going to do DTRL SWAP now is the time …. cut the black wire cover tape


12- i used a nipper to cut the tabs because i was lazy…


13 – please refer to dtrl swap thread for more info if you have any question.

14 – put headlight back in and connect all the wires



15 – put the bumper back in …..