Community Member Credit: Ferhan Syed
My own solution for the 00VI + Pathfinder throttle body + 4th IACV. The reason for this is was to have a straight TB and no idle issues when running the 00VI. I decided to go close to OEM as possible by using a bad MAF and some custom flanges to make one adapter to cover everything needed. Just finished. Prepped, primed, sanded and painted. I could have made a few minor changes but realized a little too late.
Community Member Credit: uptownsamcv
Recently I installed a SE-R spec V H-LSD along with a JWT flywheel and decided to try the M-Pact clutch components they sell on www.rockauto.com. The latest year Z that they list separate pressure plate and disc for is 2006, which should be good enough for bolt-ons and ECU reflash for 02 Maxima.
The pressure plate part number is M-PACT 98630 which is also their pressure plate listed for 02-06 Maxima. The disc part number is M-Pact 99688D which is their general sprung organic disc for many other Nissans and G35. I went with a National throw-out bearing and pilot bearing this time.
After putting 500 miles of city driving for break-in I finally started getting on it yesterday and it has a lot more bite than the outgoing basic Exedy kit I was running.
I also replaced the flywheel bolts with Allen head bolts with orange Loctite, I hate Torx bolts. Only Fastenal had the Allen head bolts that matched up. JWT instructions called for Loctite red but I don’t think it’s a good idea to use it on a crank. The flywheel will need to come off eventually, mainly when I do the 2nd gen swap.
All the clutch components together ended up costing me $168.97 which isn’t bad, now it’s just a matter of how good it holds up. My lust clutch kit was actually a LUK that came packaged with a LUK dual mass flywheel, not Exedy as I mentioned above. When I first got my car in December of 2012 the throw-out bearing went bad a month later and I had installed an Exedy kit.
I only paid $300 for the 04 Sentra SE-R Spec V donor tranny that I took the Helical LSD out of. it fit right in since it’s the same LSD that comes in some of the 6 speed Maxima’s, I just had to put Maxima’s ring gear on it. I would have swapped the whole gear set as I saw in some write-ups but my tranny doesn’t grind any gears so I kept the stock gears.
Credit: NISformance
This kit is designed to replace the factory oil cooler/warmer. Factory setup warms the engine oil and maintains it at coolant temperature. However, this often leaks or cannot be reused due to damage or contamination.
* When using this delete kit vehicles must be driven carefully upon cold startup, no high rpm driving until oil temperature warms up *
Includes:
The block plug replaces the metal line running from block to the factory oil warmer plate
Oil filter stud is used for attaching oil filter to engine block once the oil warmer plate has been removed
Welded coolant block replaces factory coolant block as well as the rubber hose
Credit: Rob Tilley
Need oil galley gaskets asap? Cut them yourself with a rotozip and .082 aluminum sheet.
Credit: SouthFlMaxTech
Well I got my AEM FIC running finally after a week of messing with it, and it does run a 4gen maxima and the timing works on it too. Neat little set-up and a good option vs eManage.
I’m running it on my 1996 maxima with a z32 MAF, 410cc injectors and a t3/t4 custom turbo setup.. and I have a 2008 3.5l in there out of a 2008 maxima.. with a pathfinder tb.
Description: 2002-06 Nissan Altima 3.5L Exhaust Header Downpipe Kit with gasket and bolts
Part Number: 2503EXP050RUS
Price: $224.76 (use coupon code DRIVE for 10%. Comes out to $202.28). We are not affiliated this company for any discounts, just found from Google.
Important Note:
Credit: KRRZ350
Well it’s not much of a how-to really, and it’s not much of an upgrade either.
But nonetheless, a Reman from AZ done by the same company is $160 for a ’96 I30 (125 amp stock w/125 and 110 amp options, 110 = $130’ish IIRC) vs $210 for a ’04 I35 (110amp stock w/no 125 amp aftmrkt option listed)
I30/GLE = $160 125amp
5.5 Gen = $210 110amp
There’s really nothing to it. the pulleys all line up the same and everything, you just need to use a hammer to tap the bushing until it lines up with the location of the 5.5 gen one. If you lay them both on the table with the pulley facing down, you will see that they are nearly identical and what needs to be changed.
Hold the aluminum casing nearest the bushing between the edge of the table and your stomach, than tap, you don’t want to be tapping the bushing on that mount while resting the alternator on the pulley, you could snap the case or do damage to the alty, this will all become apparent and if you can handle replacing your alternator you are smart enough that this will be common-sense to you.
