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Credit: sanford7575/DennisMik

I had to write something because this job sucks! ’97 I30 with a bad air mix motor (only blowing cold air all the time…did the FSM diagnostic on the climate control system and got a -26 PBR short circuit). Had to order the new motor/actuator from Nissan Parts Zone ($60) because rock auto, eBay, and Autozone had nothing.

Anyway, I’m in the middle of doing this job now, and there is no freaking way to get to the air mix motor without removing the ECU, and moving the wire harness out of the way. I also had to take the glove box out to undo a dash harness that patches into the main ECU harness. The long story short is that it took me the better part of 3 hours just to remove the failed air mix motor. I honestly thought that this would be a half-hour job, and it’s going to take me the better part of tomorrow to finish.

I may end up doing an official write up with pictures, but just wanted to complain and tell everyone that this job is a pain in the !@!#$ There is no space to work, and the three bolts that hold the air motor in place are not accessible unless you remove the ECU and have a special small ratcheting screwdriver (got mine from harbor freight for $2) to remove the ECU from its bracket and the air mix motor from its mount, and a long handle 10mm ratcheting wrench to remove the ECU mounting bracket from the body.

Damn this repair, I hate hanging upside down in the front seat. I may actually install a remote start and car alarm system since I’m down here and wires and dash panels are exposed. Gotta love underestimating the time on a repair job! I think I live for this %$^&; Nissan / Infiniti 4 ever!

The PBR is built inside the Air Mix Door Motor, it is not a separate item.

Here is a view of the Air Mix Door Motor from the passenger foot well.

Here is the Air Mix Door Motor opened up. In the left half, about the middle, is a small gear. It is mounted on the PBR. If you look on the right half, there is a white half gear that has some metal fingers on it. The metal is copper and you can see green corrosion on the fingers. That corrosion is why your motor doesn’t work.

ards the front of the car. You can barely see it from the driver’s side foot well, it is more easily seen from the passenger side foot well. The PBR is built inside the Air Mix Door Motor, it is not a separate item.

Part Number: 27732-40U00

 

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Community Member Credit: Eddy

I went to move my car and noticed the cluster was not working. It was lit but it didn’t show any of the numbers and gauges were at zero. I also noted my reverse camera and reverse lights were not working. I used this article on our site to resolve the issue: https://www.my4dsc.com/5thgen-nissan-maxima-10amp-meter-fuse-reference-info-why-it-keeps-blowing/. However, I wanted to make my own version of it.

Symptoms:

  • Limp Mode
  • No Reverse Lights
  • No Dash lights or mileage displayed
  • Kept blowing 10 AMP Meter Fuse Consistently

Tried:

  • Swapped ECU to confirm not ECU
  • Tried New Bulb, Didn’t work

Actual Solution:

Fuse to Check/Replace: 10A METER

The Culprit

You can see the burnt mark on the mirror connectors. I just replaced it with a spare that I had. You can find them on eBay for around $20-$30 bucks shipped. 

 

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Community Member Credit: 96SEmaxB

So I started blowing this in cab 10amp fuse called meter, I checked alternator, battery, called harness lights all the normal stuff, couldn’t find it, meanwhile that fuse controls the cluster and puts the vehicle into fail-safe mode… so I scoured the forums and google and was running out of free time and fuses, so I brought it into the shop (local mechanic)…

It took him 9 hours of following wire and circuit diagrams, Forums, calling Nissan dealerships, had everything unplugged from harness and couldn’t find what was causing the short…

He then noticed on the schematics for that circuit there was a mirror section, not side mirrors but rear mirror, apparently the connection at the actual rear view mirror was toast, melted the wires and shorted internally, unplugged mirror and voilaaa fuse didn’t blow.

So 870$ later I had the issue fixed, a measly 100$ mirror crippled my baby for 3 days and cost me 900$.

I’m just posting this so anyone that runs into the same issue to remember that the rearview mirror may not b on the diagram plainly, but it’s something to check also.

Additional Note:

THANK YOU SOO MUCH

  • This problem happens for me a while back and replaced the fuse and it didn’t pop it happened again and I spent the whole day looking for a short and YouTube videos and forums and I found this one went and looked at the wires behind the mirror they were barley touching so I pulled them apart and replaced the fuse again and it didn’t pop so thank you soon much for your forum.

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Question: Where did your audio or trunk battery power wire?

Answers (Your choice of options from various owners)

  • “Grommet above the gas on the firewall. It’s where I have my power cable. You have to cut the carpet a bit.”
  • “I ran my power wire threw the same hole as the hood release cable”
  • “Drilled a hole through the firewall on the driver’s side. It’s the shortest distance to the battery to get the full power you’re trying to run through the cable.”
  • “There was a nice easy spot under the glovebox on the passenger side with no drilling.”

 

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There is some information on the web that states the key fob port illustrated below charges the key fob. IT DOES NOT! It’s also stated in the Nissan Manual. It uses a 3V CR2032 that must be replaced as part of normal maintenance which is about every 2 years.

NOTE: The Intelligent Key port does not charge the Intelligent Key battery. If you see the low battery indicator, replace the battery as soon as possible. See Intelligent Key battery replacement in the Maintenance and do-it-yourself section.

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Nissan Key Fob Battery Change

  • Remove the hidden key you used to get into your Nissan.
  • Remove the key housing and take out the old battery after taking note of the position.
  • Replace the 3V CR2032 battery with a new one, making sure the negative side of the battery is facing up toward you.
  • Put the key fob back together, and test it to ensure it works properly.
 
 
 
 

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The Nissan Intelligent key is a technology that allows you to lock and unlock the doors of your Nissan vehicle as well as open and close the trunk and start the vehicle with the simple push of a button.

NISSAN INTELLIGENT KEY PROGRAMMING INSTRUCTIONS

  • The first step to Nissan key programming is to get in the car with the key, then lock the doors.
  • Put the key into the ignition, but don’t start the car, then remove the key. Do this about six times, although it can take up to 10 times. When your car accepts the key, the hazard lights will flash twice. This puts the vehicle and key in program mode.
  • Put the key back in the ignition and turn the key, without starting the vehicle, to activate the electronics.
  • Immediately press any button on the Nissan Intelligent Key. This needs to be done quickly to be effective.
  • Next, you’ll want to test out the Nissan Intelligent Key. Stand farther away from your Nissan and click the buttons on the Key. If the lights flash or the horn beeps once, your Nissan Intelligent Key programming was successful!
  • You’ll want to test this out near your Nissan to be sure everything works properly. Walk up to your vehicle and open the door – you should be able to do this without having to press any buttons on your Nissan Intelligent Key.

WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF THE NISSAN INTELLIGENT KEY?

  • Lock and unlock your doors and trunk without using your Nissan Intelligent Key. So long as your key is on your person, all you’ll need to do is press the “Request Switch” button on your door or trunk to lock/unlock it.
  • Push-button ignition. Get up and go that much quicker! With Nissan Intelligent Key, all you need to do is press the Start/Stop button to start up or turn off your vehicle.
  • Avoid accidental lockout. Thanks to Nissan Intelligent Key programming, there’s no need to worry about accidentally locking your keys in the car. Your Nissan Intelligent Key senses the status of your door lock when you shut it, and if your keys are still in the car, it won’t lock and will buzz you to let you know you left them in the cabin or trunk.

Additional Reference Notes:

  • Although the life of the battery varies depending on the operating conditions, the battery’s life is approximately 2 years. If the battery is discharged, replace it with a new one.
  • When the Intelligent Key battery is almost discharged, insert the Intelligent Key into the Intelligent Key port to start the engine.
  • Replace the discharged battery with a new one as soon as possible. Replace the CR2025 battery with a new one, making sure the negative side of the battery is facing up toward you.
  • If the battery of the Intelligent Key is almost discharged, the guiding light *B of the key port *A blinks and the indicator appears on the dot matrix liquid crystal display.
  • In this case, inserting the Intelligent Key into port *A allows you to start the engine. Make sure that the key ringside faces backward as illustrated. Insert the Intelligent Key in the port until it is latched and secured.
  • To remove the Intelligent Key from the port, push the ignition switch to the OFF position and pull the Intelligent Key out of the port.
  • The key port does not charge the key battery. If you see the low battery indicator in the dot-matrix liquid crystal display, replace the battery as soon as possible.
  • Never place anything except the Intelligent Key in the Intelligent Key port. Doing so may cause damage to the equipment.
  • Make sure the Intelligent Key is in the correct direction when inserting it to the Intelligent Key port. The engine may not start if it is in the wrong direction.
  • Remove the Intelligent Key from the Intelligent Key port after the ignition switch is pushed to the LOCK position.

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