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Credit: EddyMaxx

My rear brake line on 4thgen Nissan Maxima had a pinch in it and caused brake fluid leak. I was going to  replace with another stock line but ended up ordering stainless steel brake lines from eBay. You get all 4 brake lines shipped for $67 bucks which is a great deal. The quality is great and serves its purpose well. Shipping took about a week since it came from Canada. After installing, I performed the brake bleeding procedure. Took a quick drive I can feel better braking overall with these lines.

Price: $67.32
Order Link: https://ebay.us/kptlZw
Description: You get 4 brake lines. 2 front and 2 rear.

Fits these cars:

  • 1995 – 1999 Nissan Maxima 4thgen
  • 2000 – 2001 Nissan Maxima 5thgen
  • 2002 – 2003 Nissan Maxima 5.5Gen
  • 2000 – 2001 Infiniti I30
  • 1993 – 1997 Infiniti J30

Credit: Jose R Garcia Colon & Robert Mandru

UPDATE from Robert Mandru: Have both the 300zx and 350z bracket adapters. They will NOT clear with Evo X 2 piece rotors, maybe just 1 piece. Even with one piece it still wouldn’t clear the inside, rotor too large with the 350z/G35 adapter. The EVO X top hats are too big and will not allow the calipers to bolt up. Probably could do it with the 300zx adapter without modding the caliper but for god sake, you have smaller bolts that are supporting all the strain coming from holding the caliper in place during braking conditions. Not worth it.

In simple terms….. do not bother with the eBay 300zx Caliper Adapters

For better fitment, you are better off with these brackets: https://www.my4dsc.com/autosports-engineering-akebono-big-brake-kit-brackets-nissan-altima-02-06-maxima-95-08/

If you are looking to upgrade to Nissan 370z / Infiniti G37 Akebono Calipers, then below is the information you need to know when using the Autosports Engineering brackets. The brackets are decently priced and work fine. however, various members have reported some pad “overhang” which has varied (some worse than others). But other than that the brackets work fine and there have been no issues or functionality impacted with the overhang.

Important Note: These brackets for only for the front calipers. The rear Akebono calipers are plug-n-play but only for the 04+ Maximas/Altimas. All you need to do is trim the dust shield as it’s a much bigger rotor.

Order Link: https://autosportsengineering.com/product/autosports-engineering-brake-brackets-fits-nissan-altima-02-06-maxima-95-08/

Description: Autosports Engineering Brake Brackets Fits: Nissan Altima 02-06 & Maxima 95-08
Price: $129.99 + Shipping (as of 6/14/2020)

Akebono Reference Specs/Size:

  • Front caliper: 4-pot / Rear caliper: 2-pot
  • Front rotor: 355mm – 14″  / Rear rotor: 332mm – 13.8″
  • Front Calipers: 10-11 lbs each / Rear Calipers: 5-6 lbs each

Bracket Photos:

Reported Pad Overhang:

Installed Photos

Altima SE-R Install Video by Jules Mechanics

6thgen Nissan Maxima Install Video by MaximaSpeed

 

 

Member Credit: Aackshun

Caliper Models: G35 Coupe and Sedan 2005, 2006, 2007 (Coupe only for ’07) and Non-Brembo Equipped 350z 2006, 2007 and 2008 models.
How to Applies to the Following Vehicles:
  • -J30 (89-94) Maxima
  • -A32 (95-99) Maxima
  • -A33 / A33B (2000-2003) Maxima
  • -A34 (2004-2008) Maxima
  • -L31 (2002-2006) Altima
  • Maybe more, the above vehicles are the ones I’m familiar with and I know for sure will work with the below directions.

This will work easily for 89-08 Maximas. Not sure on any other years, I will find out on other years some other time. This is a work in progress, should be finalized soon.

If you have an 89-01 Maxima Please follow these directions first:

How to Install 2002-2003 5thgen Brakes on 4thgen Maxima

Then go to step 2.

Needed Equipment:
-05-06 350z / 05-06 G35 Sedan Dual Piston Brake Caliper, Bracket and Rotor (Rotor NOT needed on a 04-08 Maxima).
-02-08? Maxima Caliper Bolts
-Brake Fluid.
-Aviation Snips (Some type of sheers for cutting metal).

I’m not going to hold your hand through this one, just make it to the point where your car is safely on jack stands and you’re looking at this….

Step 1: Remove the unnecessary components. (If you’re a 89-01 skip to step 2)

-Disconnect your brake line

-Caliper

-Bracket

-Rotor (6th genners keep this on!!)

Keep track of your two caliper bracket to spindle bolts, YOU WILL NEED THIS! You can NOT use the bolts off of the G/Z they are tooooo long. If you’re swapping from a stock 4th gen setup, I suggest ordering these from Nissan. If not then goto your local hardware store and purchase replacement bolts (Will update with the correct size).

Step 2: Install Dual Piston Glory

-There has been confirmed fitment issues, I am working on a easy sure fire way around this. It looks like grinding down the calipers are needed to clear the rotors because of the bracket not moving it out far enough from the center of the hub. I will get around to putting this on a running car to see what is needed to get these on a Maxima, I really think not much is grinding is needed.

-Install rotor
This is where you need your handy dandy shears for 4th/5th gens… Start snippin away at what comes close to contact with the rotor or control arm (have both wheels in the air and the steering wheel unlocked so you can check the clearance while turning the wheels). I have yet to fully test on a 6th gen spindle and their dust shield, I will on Monday. 6th gens and L31 Altimas shouldn’t need to modify their dust shield because they accommodate larger 12.6″ rotors already.

-Install bracket
You may still need to continue to hack away at your dust shield. During this step it’d be wise to give the disc a good ol whirl around to check for any rubbing.

-Install Brake Pads

-Install the Dual Piston Caliper

-Re-install your brake lines

Make sure to check the rotation of the disc again. And you have to use the bolts for the 02-08 Maxima. The 3rd/4th Gen bolts will NOT work and the 350z/G35 bolts will NOT work.

After your done it should look like this:

Then proceed to step 3.

Step 3: Prepare for WAR!

-Bleed brakes

-Bed in pads (you should be using new pads and rotors :squint:)

-Troll Q45/Z32 front brake owners 😎

Quick Facts:
-350z/G35 brembo’s will go on following the same procedure it takes to install them on non brembo 350z/g35s (Just replace the bracket/caliper/rotor!). If you’re a real baller you can get the Akibono (spelling?) Brakes and relocation kit for the 350z and do the same thing….. Remember, this is a game for ballers and only ballers can participate.

-I have yet to test this mod on the street!

-The dual piston pads use more sweeping area than the 300zx pads.

-It BARELY! Clears AE wheels on my 4th gen if you’re running the stock wheels I suggest getting a 5mm
spacer for safety sake.

-Rotor Comparison:

-Caliper Comparison (4th gen and G35/350z, the 5.5 gen on my car looks just like the 4th gen, who cares)
-4th top, 5.5 Gen middle, G35/350z/6th Gen on the bottom.

Member Credit: EddyMaxx

Decided to install my Evo 9 Brembo BBK today on my 2002 Nissan Maxima. It cost me around $500 bucks to do the full setup. The brackets fit great and have full rotor-to-pad coverage.

Part’s Used:

  • 2003-2007 Mitsubishi Evolution 8 / 9 Brembo Front Brake Calipers
    • Part Number for OEM Left/Driver Front: 4605A435
    • Part Number for OEM Right/Passenger Front: 4605A436
  • CGR Adapters (Paid $140)
    • Make sure to use Loctite on all bolts. I personally used Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242.
    • Important Note: Original kit came with 60MM bolts. I ended up needed 65MM bolts for proper fitment and tightening. 
  • 12.6″ 6thgen Nissan Maxima Drilled/Slotted Rotors
  • Goodridge Stainless Steel Brake Lines
  • Project Mu NS 400 (PMU-PS4F906)

CGR Adapter Brackets

Brembo Calipers – 4 Piston BBK

Project Mu NS 400 Brake Pads

Showing how the brackets are supposed to be installed.

You need to ensure the bleeder valve sit upwards. Some people make the mistake of putting them on the wrong sides.

Additional Member Photo’s

You can see the better rotor-to-pad coverage on the Brembo’s versus the 300ZX BBK. Much better fitment.


 

Member Credit: 95BLKMAX

I wanted bigger brakes, but I didnt want to spend a fortune (as much as one would spend, say for a Z32 upgrade, or the 6th gen rotors with Z32 calipers, etc…) for just front brakes. Plus I dont autoX, I just do alot of highway spirited driving; so I wanted a beefier setup that wouldnt break the bank.

Parts / Cost:

  • Calipers and caliper mounting brackets used- $100
  • RPT plated/ X-Drilled Rotors, Axxis Metal Master Pads, 2 liters of ATE Blue Racing Fluid- $185shipped
  • Ubber Drill Bit- $35
  • Bolts and lockwashers- ~$10

SPECS – (Per 1995 FSM and 2003 FSM)

4th gen Rotors (mm/ inches)
280×22/ 11.02×0.87

5.5 gen Rotors (mm/ inches)
296×24/ 11.65×0.94

4th gen Caliper Pot (mm/ inches)
57.2/ 2.252

5.5 gen Caliper Pot (mm/ inches)
57.2/ 2.252

HOW TO- (I write this assuming you already know how to do a brake job, this how to made with attention to the work specifically related to the conversion process of being able to install these bigger brakes)-

Remove wheels, calipers (disconnect the lines from them but have a bottle near, they will leak alot of fluid), caliper mounting brackets and pads

Have this ubber drill bit…

It cost me $35 locally at a “nothing but nuts and bolts- specialized hardware store (Mitchell Supply Company) also 4 of these Metric bolts with lock washers (stock 4th gen on left, new 5.5gen on right)…

I bought them so long ago I dont recall the specs, so just go to the hardware store with the caliper mounting bracket for thme to check * With the Ubber drill bit, drill out the two holes on the hub. Try your best to keep it straight. Go slow with the bit at first because if it gets caught up, the drill WILL fling around and it could cause bodily harm depending of how strong of a drill you have. Once it started boring the hole out just go downtown on them. They should look like this afterwards…

Make a few cuts along the shield’s overlap up to the vertical part and with pliers bend the overlap up to vertical. The 5.5gen rotors wont fit otherwise…

Now with that done, the installation is the exact same as a normal brake job, only that you’re using the 5.5 gen parts. Hook up the lines and you will have to bleed ALL 4 calipers. At least with me, I let so much fluid drain that air got into the master cylinder, thus my line for the rear brakes had air, so I had to bleed all 4 corners. Break them in and enjoy the noticeably improved braking over that of the 4th gen parts.