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Credit: Mike G.

Just brought in a 1996 Cedric GT Ultima, and to my surprise it came fitted with an old-logo MFD Nismo cluster. I’ve been into old-logo Nismo parts since around 2004, and I never knew they made a Y33 version!

Over the years I’ve had a few of the white-face old-logo clusters, and I’ve seen the R33 MFD GTR versions pop up occasionally for ridiculous prices. At first, I thought this was one of those — until I pulled it out and saw the back clearly stamped “Y33.”

The screens are the same type used in the R34 MFD, so I’ve already ordered a replacement screen and plan to repair it. Not sure what I’ll end up doing with the unit yet — for now, it’ll go back into my Cedric as part of its small build before the car eventually gets sold.

To top it off, the car also came with an old-logo Nismo carbon exhaust and a Nismo panel filter — a nice bonus for any old-logo enthusiast.

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Community Member Credit: elusive

This came about because I had to get rid of my lunker of a sub (12″ ported) and reclaim half of my trunk space. I didn’t want to spend $400 on Wicked’s box and wanted to learn to lay fiberglass. I am mounting an Alpine Type R 10″.

Difficulty: Moderate

Time: For me, it took about a week since I only worked on it here and there in between work

Cost: I spent a little over $100 on materials

Required Materials:

  • Respirator!
  • Masking tape
  • Aluminum foil
  • 1 gal. fiberglass resin (I bought mine from Home Depot but you could use your preferred brand. I went the cheap route but the box has been holding up)
  • Fiberglass mat (I purchased from Tap Plastics by the yard, I purchased 5 yds but ended up having extra)
  • 1 yd. fleece fabric
  • Wood to build mounting ring
  • Interior carpet for the finish (I used Wool from a local fabric store)
  • Super 77 spray adhesive (to wrap carpet)

Instructions:

1) Wse masking tape to generously mask off the area you want to set the sub box into (commonly the nook near the trunk door). Some people remove the compartment below (see WickedCAS box) but I didn’t want to cut my trunk mat so I just did it in the corner.

Mask a lot of areas. Afterward tape the aluminum foil on top. This will allow easier removal of the first layers of fiberglass. Cover a lot of your interior and car in general, with some Kraft paper, anything that even has the remote chance of getting fiberglass resin dripped onto it.

I don’t have pictures of the aluminum foil or laying the fiberglass. See tutorials on how to lay fiberglass, that’s a whole new thread in and of itself.

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2) Lay 3-5 layers of fiberglass mat (I did 4 because I was using some lighter density mat)

3) After this first layer has cured, remove it and trim the edges to your desired shape and contour, I used a jigsaw.

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4) Now your mounting ring should be cut, or purchased, you’ll want to cut some pieces to act as leg supports to hold the mounting ring at the required depth (I measured the internal box volume by using packing peanuts and a cardboard box with my required internal volume [0.75 cu. ft])

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5) Use the fleece fabric and stretch it over your mounting ring to the back of the shell and use the adhesive spray to hold it to the entire edge of the shell as well as to the outer edge of the mounting ring.

6) Lay resin onto the entire fleece (except for where the hole of the mounting ring is) and before it hardens, use a razor to trim the fleece from the mounting ring face.

7) After the fleece hardens, lay 3-5 layers of fiberglass over the fleece.

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8) The final stretch…Once it all hardens: sand, trim, grind, fill, primer, whatever you have to do to finish it up. I had to do a lot of trimming since it was my first time using fiberglass, I made a mess with my edges so I did some grinding to make it sit flush in my trunk.

9) Unless you are painting, go ahead and wrap the box with your carpet or wool using the super 77 adhesive mounting spray.

10) Mount your sub, I drilled a hole and silicones the edges after I ran my wires through the hole. And mounted my amp in the spare tire on a wooden board cut to fit.

Enjoy the music and satisfaction of your custom box!

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Listed below is the vehicle specific wiring diagram for your car alarm, remote starter or keyless entry installation into your 2002-2003 Nissan Maxima . This information outlines the wires location, color and polarity to help you identify the proper connection spots in the vehicle. Please be sure to test all of your wires with a digital multimeter before making any connections. More information on using a multimeter and testing wires please see our Technical Support Area.

 PART  COLOR  LOCATION
 12 VOLT CONSTANT   BLUE (+)   IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
 STARTER  BLACK/RED (+) See NOTE *1  IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
 STARTER 2  BLACK/WHITE (+) See NOTE *1  IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
 IGNITION 1  BLACK/YELLOW (+)  IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
 IGNITION 2  N/A
 IGNITION 3  N/A
 ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1  RED (+)  IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
 ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 2  WHITE/BLUE (+)  IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
 KEYSENSE  N/A
 PARKING LIGHTS ( – )  LIGHT BLUE (-)  @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH
 PARKING LIGHTS ( + )  RED/BLUE (+)  IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL
 POWER LOCK  ORANGE/BLACK (TYPE B) See NOTE *2  @ MODULE, IN DRIVERS DOOR
 POWER UNLOCK  ORANGE/BLUE (TYPE B) See NOTE *2  @ MODULE, IN DRIVERS DOOR
 DOOR TRIGGER  See NOTE *3  @ SECU, See NOTE *4
 DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION  LIGHT GREEN (-)  @ SECU, PIN 1, See NOTE *4
 TRUNK RELEASE  BLUE (-)  @ SECU, PIN 16, See NOTE *4
 SLIDING POWER DOOR  N/A
 HORN  GREEN/WHITE(-)  @ STEERING COLUMN HANRESS
 TACH  WHITE/GREEN  @ WHITE PLUG, BEHIND INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
 WAIT TO START LIGHT  N/A
 BRAKE  RED/GREEN (+)  @ SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
 FACTORY ALARM DISARM   N/A
 ANTI-THEFT  TRANSPONDER ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM, REQUIRES 791 BYPASS and EXTRA IGNITION KEY  TRANSPONDER @ IGNITION SWITCH TUMBLER
 EXTRA INFORMATION
 NOTE *1 When Installing a REMOTE STARTER, you MUST use BOTH Starter #1 and Starter #2 wires. Both wires must be connected to the STARTER/CRANKING Output wire from the Remote Starter or the vehcile will NOT Remote Start when the Engine is cold. NOTE *2 TEST THESE WIRES BY TURNING KEY IN DRIVERS DOOR CYLINDER. UNLOCK REQUIRES A DOUBLE PULSE. NOTE *3 LIGHT GREEN(-) FOR DRIVERS SIDE FRONT DOOR, PIN 1. RED/BLUE(-) FOR THE PASSENGER SIDE FRONT, PIN 2. RED/WHITE(-) SAME WIRE FOR BOTH REAR DOORS, PIN 3. WHEN CONNECTING TO AN ALARM SYSTEM, USE ALL 3 DOOR TRIGGER WIRES AND DIODE ISOLATE, SEE DIAGRAM. NOTE *4 THE SECU (Smart Entry Control Unit) IS LOCATED TO THE RIGHT OR TO THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE STEERING COLUMN.

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