Credit: pimpin02max

Alright…there seems to have been many many questions about the install of the newer OBX Headers/Y-pipe. So I have decided to do a small writeup on the installation of these headers/y-pipe. So below I have made a faq with some of my answers that should be right but if I am wrong on anything feel free to let me know…and like everything else, this is a guide to help you on your install and any questions you have, so if you screw something up it is not my fault


1. Are these worth saving the extra money over the Cattman’s?

(Answer) If you are a do-it-yourself kind of person then yes definitely, the Cattman’s are an awesome product and have no fitment issues whatsoever (I have owned a set of Gen III’s) and the peace of mind is nice, but if you aren’t afraid to do some small modifying and saving around $500 sounds good then yes the OBX headers are for you.

2. Do these make decent power compared to the Cattman’s?

(Answer) The OBX Headers make just as much power as the Cattman’s. Depending on who you ask some will tell you they make more but I think that since the dyno’s differ I would say all around they make around the same power.

3. I have heard you have to extend the O2 sensors, is this all 4 or just the primaries?

(Answer) Alright, when I installed my headers all I had to extend was the primaries which are the O2 sensors in the collectors of the headers…now if you choose to plug up the secondary O2’s then you might have to extend them, I don’t know because I did not hook mine up.

4. Do you have to relocate the rear bung for the primary O2 sensor?

(Answer) Don’t know if you absolutely have to but I would 100%…it makes the install a lot easier and you won’t be so worried about it hitting the steering rack and whatnot. All you need to do is move the bung 90* to the right on the collector and your good to go, you could have a shop do this for you or for the DIY’r you could do it in your garage (like me…lol)

5. Will I throw a SES with these headers?

(Answer) Yes most likely, since you do not have any precats for the secondaries to monitor you will throw a code which is why it is useless to plug up the secondaries to begin with since they will still throw a code because there are no precats. The SES light thrown will not effect your performance at all because the primaries are the only O2’s that affect your A/F ratio. Now all you need is a dual output O2 simulator which you can get from here: Some have reported not throwing a SES and most get one. When I installed my Cattman’s I threw one upon first startup, with the OBX’s I have been driving around for 1 1/2 months now without a simulator and have yet to throw a code, but that’s just mine.

6. Should I use the gaskets included with the headers or the OEM ones?

(Answer) Definitely use OEM multi-layer gaskets because the ones included like every other header kit are crap. Now if for whatever reason you have to use them then they are ok but plan on changing them down the road because they won’t last as long as your OEM ones.

7. Is there that much modifications to make these work?

(Answer) That depends on who your talking to. I didn’t think it was that bad. The only modifications I had to do was to move the rear bung 90* to the right, plug the 2 secondary holes in the y-pipe, trim down the crossmember like 1/2 inch for the flex section, and then grind down the rear motor mount bracket peice for the primary tube on the rear header. That’s it. Not bad at all. Some people claimed to have installed them without any modifications but I would plan on doing the above on your install.

8. Do you have to have a lift to install these headers?

(Answer) NO!!!! You can install these with your car on jackstands…I installed both my Cattman and OBX’s with the car in my garage on jackstands. Even with the one peice rear header/y-pipe deal it’s not that bad. The y-pipe header peice doesn’t weigh that much and once you get everything trimmed and out of the way it isn’t that hard to put up on the head.

That’s all the questions I could think of for now, I am working on the Install Writeup as you are reading this so I will post in a little bit, but I hope this helps out a lot with some of the questions and concerns people are having with these headers.


Now bare with me hear as I installed these quite a while ago, so if I left something out please feel free to let me know because this is going off of memory, I didn’t take a gazillion pics either so it will mostly be an overview because I’m assuming you guys can figure out the small details . So use this as a basis to go off of when you are installing your headers, it’s not an instruction manual but I’m sure it’s a good outline to follow.

Alright first things first. Here is a pic of the bung relocation courtesy of C-Young:

1. Remove your filter, midpipe etc. off of your intake.

2. Proceed to remove your intake manifold (12mm) upper only though.

3. Remove your Radiator fans, only 2 bolts on top (10mm) and 2 on bottom (10mm) unplug them as well.

4. Jack up the car and put on jackstands.

5. Take off the passenger side splash guards.

6.Take off the front heat shield off the header.

7. Undo the 2 front O2 sensors and the rear secondary. 22mm wrench or an adjustable wrench.

8. Unbolt y-pipe completely from the precats and the cat.

9. Unbolt exhaust manifold from head.

10. Drop the front manifold throught the bottom.


11. Undo the rear O2 sensor off the rear manifold

12. Now it would be easiest to unbolt the precat from the rear manifold but mine decided to be tricky and stripped out so I couldn’t undo it so it was a little hard to get to the nuts for the header.

13. Unbolt the rear manifold using a combination of underneath the car and from on top to get to the different nuts.

14. Bolt the front header to the head.

15. Go ahead and test fit the y-pipe/header and see where you’ll need to cut (even though you already should know by now…lol)

16. Grind down the crossmember so that it’s not touching the flex section.

17. Now grind down the rear motor mount peice on top that’s almost just like a cover for the top of the mount, this can be kind of tricky, I’ve found it to almost be easier to undo the mount from the engine and cradle and take out of the car and since all you are grinding is a plate you can just cut it all the way off…photo courtesy of datdude20.

18. Your header/y-pipe should now slide up into place.

19. Bolt on header to head

20. Bolt y-pipe to cat and to front header.

21. Plug in your O2 sensors. You may need to use some zipties on the front because my wire was being hit by the fan so I ziptied it so it wouldn’t hit.

22. Double check and make sure everthing is bolted up tight so you won’t have any leaks.

23. Lower car back onto ground.

24. Re-install fans, intake manfold, intake.

25. Enjoy your headers!!!!


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