Category

my5thgen 00-03

Category

Credit: Aaron Jackson aka Aackshun

Bored, dumping all dynos in here from now on. These are what I would call the “final” dynos of each car (or that car’s final dyno with each motor), photos will be included if possible. Not all of these are my cars, but all are cars I’ve worked on and taken to the dyno.

1999 VQ30DE 5MT

Power: 190 WHP / 210 TQ

Mods:

  • 190whp / 210 wtq STD – 4th Gear – Dynojet Unknown Model
  • 99 Maxima stock VQ30DE with a blown 5mt Transmission
  • eBay “Bomz” short ram Air intake with stock MAF
  • Stock Coil Packs
  • Stock Injectors
  • Stock Fuel Pump
  • OBX VQ35DE Headers
  • High Flow Cat
  • Cattman 3″ Exhaust
  • Stock ECU Tune

1996 VQ30DE 5MT

Power: 185 WHP

Mods:

  • 185whp SAE – 3rd Gear Unknown Model Dyno
  • 96 Maxima 5MT VQ30DE 5MT w/ Original Motor
  • Bomz Short Ram Intake
  • NWP Spacers
  • Stock Coil Packs
  • Stock Injectors
  • 350z Fuel Pump
  • OBX 02-03 Maxima Headers
  • 2.5″ Test Pipe
  • Cattman 3″ Catback
  • Stock ECU Tune

2005 Altima SE-R VQ35DE 6MT

Power: 237 WHP / 231 TQ

Mods:

  • 237whp / 231 wtq STD – Unknown Dynojet Model – 4th Gear 6mt 4.1 FD
  • 2005 Altima SE-R w/ Original Motor
  • AEM Cold Air
  • Stock Coil Packs
  • Stock Injectors
  • Stock Fuel Pump
  • Gutted Cats
  • Straight Pipes of unknown Diameter
  • Stock ECU Tune

2003 Infiniti I35 Gen2 VQ35DE 6MT

Power: 272 WHP

Mods:

  • 272whp SAE – Dynojet unknown model – 4th Gear 6mt 4.1 FD – 7600RPM
  • 2003 I35 6mt Swap + 2nd Gen VQ35DE Altima Motor
  • 4″ Intake and Maf
  • 370Z Injectors
  • 370Z Fuel Pump
  • Stock Coil Packs (for the motor)
  • OBX Headers
  • 2.5″ Test Pipe
  • 2.5″ Mandrel Bent Catback (G35 Coupe Resonator and G35 Sedan Muffler)
  • Tuned on Haltech

2002 Infiniti I35 Gen2 VQ35DE 6MT

Power: 265 WHP / 241 TQ

Mods:

  • The Video is from a dynocom but the numbers are from a dynojet, chill.
  • 265whp / 241wtq SAE – Dynojet Unknown Model – 6mt 4th gear 4.4FD (But V6 Gears)
  • Fun Fact! Same car and mods got 279 STD on a different dynojet and 257whp on the above Dynocom all within 6 months of each other
  • 2002 I35 6MT Swap + Same Altima motor that was in the 03 I35 above.
  • Sleeper Garage 4″ Intake and MAF
  • Ported Lower Manifold
  • Cattman Headers
  • Stock Coil Packs (for the motor)
  • GTR Injectors
  • 370z Fuel Pump
  • 3″ Test Pipe
  • 3″ Mandrel Bent Catback w/ Vibrant resonator and Vibrant Muffler
  • Tuned on RomRaider by AdminTuning

2002 Nissan Maxima TE Edition VQ35DE 6MT

Power: 204 WHP

Mods:

  • 204whp STD – Dynocom unknown settings – 6mt 4th Gear 3.8 FD
  • 2003 Maxima TE 6mt w/ Original Motor
  • 4″ AdminTuning Intake
  • Gutted Cats (all 3)
  • 3″ Crush Bent Exhaust with a Vibrant Single Tip muffler only.

2001 Nissan Maxima  VQ35DE-K 5MT

Power: 187 WHP / 178 TQ

Mods:

  • 187whp / 178 wtq STD – Dynocom same unknown settings as above – 5mt 4th gear
  • 2001 Maxima AE VQ30DEK
  • Short Ram Intake
  • Power Rod Delete
  • Stock Injectors
  • Stock Coil Packs
  • Stock Fuel Pump
  • Cattman Headers
  • 3″ Test Pipe
  • 3″ Side Exit Exhaust w/ a Jones Truck Muffler
  • Stock ECU Tune

2002 Nissan Maxima  SE VQ35DE 4AT

Power: 255 WHP / 250 TQ

Mods:

  • 255Whp / 250wtq? (not sure forgot) STD – Dynojet Unknown Model – 3rd Gear 4AT
  • 2002 Maxima SE w/ Original Motor
  • 3.5″ Intake + MAF
  • Vias Delete
  • NWP Spacers
  • R35 GTR Injectors
  • Stock Fuel Pump
  • Stock Coil Packs
  • Cattman Headers
  • 2.5″ Test Pipe
  • 2.5″ Cattman Catback
  • TransGo 4AT FULL rebuild.
  • RomRaider tuned by Admin Tuning

Community Member Credit: Kevin Kryzda

Tools necessary:

  • 10mm socket and an extension
  • Flathead screwdriver (or pry tool)
  • Wire/Side Cutters or Wire Strippers
  • Wire taps or soldering tools
Before You Start:
The purpose of this modification is to re-wire your fog light relay under your hood to receive signal from an accessory source of power that is independent of anything else in the car, allowing you to turn on your fog lights without the headlights as well as run them with your high beams. The modification is very inexpensive and will avoid/end the problems with the “windshield wiper” write-up.
Steps:

1. First off your going to want to locate the relay box located on the left side of your under hood as indicated by the arrow.
2. Then you will want to remove the reservoir in between you and the relay panel. This is attached by two 10mm bolts on the left side of the car. Following this, set the reservoir aside.

3. Next you will want to remove the cover from the relay box prying the two tabs holding it on outward and lift the cover up.

4. Now you will want to remove the air conditioning relay and the heated mirror relay if you are equipped with them. To do this, use your pry tool and insert on the side of the relay that has a clip, push away from the relay and then pull up on the relay itself.

5. Next remove the two exposed 10mm bolts holding the relay box in. Now pull up on the box and release the snap tab located on the bottom arm of the box.
6. Once the relay panel is free from the car you will need to open it to expose the wiring inside. To do this release the 3 clips on the right and left side of the box indicated with the arrows. Then open.

7. Now that you have the wiring exposed you are going to be working with the signal wire from the fog relay and the accessory power wire from the air conditioning relay. The yellow wire coming out of the fog relay is the wire you want to give +12V and the pink wire with a blue stripe from the A/C relay is where you will get it. To access the pink wire better you will probably need to remove the relay harness from the housing. To do this pry in the direction indicated and push out the bottom of the housing.

8. Now cut the yellow wire and without cutting the pink wire run a wire from it to the yellow wire leading into the blue relay harness.

9. I prefer soldering all of my connections but you can attach how you like. I highly recommend no matter what you do though, make sure to tape up everywhere you work. Make sure to tape up the open end of the yellow wire as well.

10. Now close everything up and reverse the previous steps to return everything how you found it. Flip your fog lights on and admire. You can turn them on whenever you want granted the car is on.

Owner: CustomLowz

Year: 2003
Model: Maxima
Color: Silver
Transmission: 5- 4-Speed Automatic
Trim: SE

Mod List:

Under the Hood:

  • Hella SuperTones Horns
  • Custom “MAXIMA” battery Tie Down
  • Relocated battery 90*
  • Short Ram Intake modified to stretch behind headlight
  • Cattman Axleback Exhaust with stainless piping
  • Aftermarket Resonator
  • OBX V2 Equal Length Headers
  • NWP style Block off plate
  • NWP Plenum spacer kit

Suspension/Wheels:

  • Tein S-Tech Springs
  • Tokico Illumina Struts
  • Stillen Front Upper Strut Bar
  • Stillen Rear Sway Bar
  • Energy Suspension Bushings
  • Custom/OEM BBK Upgrade
  • Slotted Rotors with Ceramic pads front/rear
  • Goodrich Stainless braided brake lines
  • Custom Painted (Honda Polished Metal) G35 Coupe Staggered Wheels (7 Spoke)
  • 255/35/18 Tires (Rear)
  • 225/40/18 Tires (Front)

Exterior:

  • Custom Wrapped rear bumper lights
  • 35% Platinum Plus tint
  • Shaved emblems from trunk
  • Stillen Front Lip
  • Stillen Rear Lip
  • Custom Front Grill
  • Eyelids

Lighting (Interior/Exterior):

  • Clear Front Bumper Lights
  • 3000K Yellow HID Fog lights with yellow Lamin-X protective covers
  • LED license plats lights
  • LED Door Courtesy Lights
  • LED Dome Light
  • LED Front Marker Lights
  • All red Tail Lights
  • Blackhoused/Cleared headlights

I.C.E.

  • Alpine CDA-9886 With USB, iPod, and Aux input
  • Sirius Sportster 5 Satellite Radio Dock in ashtray pocket
  • Steering Wheel Controls
  • JL 450/4
  • Alpine Type-R Components front and rear
  • Kick panel Enclosures in front
  • 36 sq ft dynamat extreme
  • Viper 2-way paging alarm system with remote start
  • Hard wire for Passport Radar detector

Interior:

  • Wrapped Rear Panel (custom hidden port to trunk)
  • Painted plastics for rear panel
  • Chrome “MAXIMA” door sills
  • Custom Mounted Volt Meter into Fuse Box Door

Owner: VQtHuRtY aka Diego Perez-Martinez

Year: 2000
Model: Maxima
Color: Charcoal
Transmission: 5-Speed Manual
Trim: SE

Video:

Mod List:

  • Garret GT35 Turbo
  • 35mm Wastegate
  • Deatchswerks 440cc Injectors
  • Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
  • Act 6-puck Clutch
  • Act Heavy-duty Pressure Plate
  • OBX Short Shifter
  • Mitsubishi Evolution X Shift Knob
  • 3″ Turbo-back Exhaust
  • Magnaflow Muffler
  • AEM Tru-Boost Boost Controller
  • AEM UEGO Wideband
  • Greddy E-manage Piggyback
  • Front Strut Tower Bar
  • Tein S-tech Lowering Springs
  • KYB Shocks
  • Stillen Classic Lip Kit
  • Iconic-dynamics Roof Spoiler
  • 18″ Forged Altima SE-R Wheels
  • 20% Window Tint
  • Window Visors

OEM Part Number: 22630-44B20
Price: $20.00-$30.00

On the 4th Generation Maxima engine the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor is located in the water outlet tube close to the engine end of the upper radiator hose. There are two sensors in that area. The one nearest the hose is for the dashboard temperature gauge. The ECTS, the one you’re interested in, is right next to the the gauge sending unit. There is a good picture of these sensors in the Haynes manual on page 3-7.

With the engine cold, disconnect the ECTS and measure its resistance. Reconnect the ECTS, start the engine, run it until fully warmed up. Stop the engine, and repeat the resistance measurement. The “warm” reading should be a much lower value than the “cold” reading.

The specs for the ECTS are:

  • Engine coolant temperature 68F, ECTS resistance 2.1 – 2.9 Kohms
  • Engine coolant temperature 194F, ECTS resistance 0.24 – 0.26 Kohms

Replacements Symptoms/Notes:

  • Below about 30 degrees idle will die if I don’t keep my foot on the gas at startup. Once engine is warm it’s OK.
  • Just a quick update for anyone having the same problem. Replaced the CTS (ECU Temp sensor in the picture) and guess what? My multi-year cold start problem is OVER! She runs like new again. Over $1000 spent on MAF, TB cleaning, and more and all I needed to do was replace a $9.00 sensor.

Community Member Credit: Jerry Herrera

Notes:

  • Overall, pretty much a direct fit. See reference photo on the bracket that needs to be drilled out a little.
  • They look really good in the car and give that bucket seat type feel while driving.
  • You do lose your heated seats and electronic adjustments. But I prefer performance over comfort.

Owner: Josh Emory

Year: 2002
Model: Maxima
Color: Charcoal
Engine: Gen2 VQ35DE
Transmission: 6-Speed Manual

Owner: Jiancarlo Smith

Year: 2000
Model: Nissan Maxima
Color: Arctic White
Transmission: Automatic to 5-Speed Conversion
Trim: GXE

What motivated you to MOD your Maxima?

My father was in the max game when I was younger. I’ve always had a thing for Maxima’s but what really influenced me were the DCMAX and MDMAX cars in Maryland. Once I decided what route I wanted to go that was all she wrote…..

Full Mod List / Specs:

  • 2000 Nissan Maxima w/ 335WHP 296TQ
  • 5-Speed Wwapped
  • Vortech V2 Supercharger
  • Front Mount Intercooler
  • Blitz BOV
  • Meth Kit
  • 255 Fuel Pump
  • 440cc WRX Injectors
  • Cattman Headers
  • 3” ISIS 240sx Test Pipe
  • Cattman Catback
  • Tuned on eManage Ultimate
  • BC Racing Coilovers
  • Perdue EGR BO
  • SS Clutch Line
  • Short Throw Shifter
  • Southbend Stage 2 Clutch
  • Non-LSD Trans
  • Retrofit Headlights
  • Air brushed AE Cover
  • Full Stillen Lip Kit
  • 15w40 Rotella

Community Member Credit: ViperVadim / Eddy

This will allow you to use a newer Mass Airflow Sensor to your 1995-1999 Nissan Maxima.  This upgrade has been available for many years in the Maxima community. The newer MAF sensor is pretty much the same as 90% of the newer Nissan Models. Much cheaper and easier to find. You just need to be sure you also use the newer MAF housing when installing.

You can either get an OEM pigtail or use the one from eBay below. I went with the eBay pigtail which costs around $16 bucks shipped. The most important part is that you follow the pin order (wire colors do not really matter as long you follow pin order).

Pigtail eBay Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/164695704632
Search Word (if link doesn’t work): 5 wire MAF Mass Air Flow Connector Nissan Infiniti Vq35

*********************************
Important Note: In order to properly use this new MAF, your car will require tuning. The car will drive OK but your idle will be off and may fluctuate. If you’re preparing to get an ECU tune using stock ECU, make sure to let your tuner know so new MAF can be factored in.
*********************************

For installing, you just need to match the wires as noted below. Very simple but please proceed with caution.

1995-1999 5thgen Maxima MAF Pinout

Pin 1: White = MAF signal (White)
Pin 2: Ground (Black)
Pin 3: +12v ( Red)

Separate IAT Sensor Plug
Pin 1: IAT Signal (Light Blue)
Pin 2: Ground (Black)

350z / Newer Maxima MAF Pinout

Pin 1: Blank
Pin 2: +12v (Yellow)
Pin 3: MAF Ground (Black)
Pin 4: MAF Signal (White)
Pin 5: IAT Signal (Blue)
Pin 6: IAT Ground (Red)

eBay MAF Pigtail

For reference, once you swap to this MAF… you can use MAF’s from any of the cars below. They all share the same exact MAF which makes this a better option.

NISSAN
 
350Z 2003-2008
370Z 2009+
Altima 2004+
Armada 2004+
Cube 2009-2012
Frontier 2005+
GTR 2009+
Maxima 2004+
Murano 2003+
NV1500 2012-2014
NV2500 2012-2014
NV3500 2012-2014
NV200 2013-2015
Pathfinder 2005+
Quest 2004+
Rogue 2008+
Sentra 2004+
Titan 2004+
Versa 2008+
Xterra 2005+
 
INFINITI
 
EX35 2008+
EX37 2011+
FX35 2003+
FX37 2013+
FX45 2005-2008
FX50 2009-2013
G25 2011+
G35 2004-2007
G37 2008+
JX35 2013+
M35 2006-2010
M37 2011+
M45 2006-2010
M56 2011+
Q45 2005-2006
Q50 2014+
Q60 2014+
Q70 2014+
QX50 2014+
QX56 2004+
QX60 2014+
QX70 2014+
QX80 2014+

Credit: 5thgenmaxima/puppetMaster

Your MAF is located on your air box between your Throttle body and Air filter. It sets about 8-12 inches back from the air filter itself. It has 2 Torx screws holding it down.

The 4 wires are color coated as follows (2000 model) from right to left. (From passenger side to driver side) (Left to right in the pictures)

  • White Wire: Signal wire – This will change as your speed/load changes – This is the wire the ECU/TCM takes information from to alter shifts, A/F ratio, timing,etc.
  • Red Wire: Reference wire – This should stay the same. This wire is from a hot source and has some sort of resistor to send only 5 V to the wire.
  • Black Wire: Ground wire – Should be .05 or less VD from battery ground.
  • Red Wire w/ Green Strip: power wire – Should be battery voltage.

Thanks to puppetMaster for the MAF signal specs they are as follows. All readings are at Engine operating temp, and no load. ( radio, head lights, ac, heat off).

  • SIGNAL WIRE (White Wire)
    Idle: 1.1V-1.5V  (Alldata says 1.2 – 1.8 volt)
    2500 RPM: 1.7V – 2.4V
  • Reference Wire (Red Wire): should be @ or just below 5 V. If this is low your MAF signal wire will send low #’s to the ECU.
  • GROUND WIRE (Black Wire): .05V or less – Should not change more than .02 volts with load or engine speed increase.
  • POWER WIRE (Red with Green Strip) Battery voltage. (13 – 15V) Should be close to the voltage you get when checking battery terminal to terminal. Alldata says 11-14.
    IMO- If you have 11V your battery is either dead or you have an electrical problem….. again-IMO.

I couldn’t find any specs for the ground or reference so these are universal specs among all domestic/import MAF sensors.