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my5thgen 00-03

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Member Credit: Austin Golde

So I am currently in the middle of swapping an HR motor from a 7th gen Maxima into my 5th gen and came across the throttle body harness swap and I couldn’t find anything about it via searching besides buying an adapter online so I thought I’d share how I soldered mine DIY.

Below are some pictures I attached to show some diagrams, also what each wire from each harness, its color, the year of the car and the wire’s function. (sorry about the weird layout, was using software I wasn’t familiar with)

The first picture on the top left has information for both cars, 2002 on the left, 2010 on the right. the rest are the diagrams to be sure they are connected correctly.

Hope this helps someone in their swap!

my4dsc: 55

We spotted this on Craigslist for sale in North Jersey for 12K OBO. It’s a fully customized 2003 Nissan Maxima with only 40K Miles. It was worthy of a my4dsc.com feature.  

Mod List:

  • 2003 Maxima w/ Only 40k miles
  • Custom Seats
  • Custom Air Brush
  • Air Ride Suspension
  • Lamborghini Doors in Front
  • Suicide Doors in Rear
  • Flip Flop Trunk
  • Kicker Amps
  • Kicker Competition Speakers
  • Component Set-up
  • 3 TV’s w/Bluetooth
  • 19″ Zenetti Wheels

my4dsc: 116

Member Credit: NISformance

This ‘How-To’ gives a description of the steps required to prepare an HR motor for installation in the 2002/2003 Maxima.

FB: https://www.facebook.com/NISformance/
Contact: darren@nisformance.com

Kit & Recommend Parts (click on image to purchase)

FWD HR Engine Swap Kit

EPS Tuning Oil Gallery Gasket/Hardware Kit VQ35 FWD HR Head engine

There are a few things to keep in mind before beginning your swap:

  • It’s easier to do this swap if you have a 3.5 DE motor laying around, especially if you just pulled it out of the car. You will need to take some things off of the old motor to use on the HR. Without this, there are a few parts that you will have to buy in order to complete the swap.
  • There are some specific tools needed: An ‘E8’ torx socket, 5/16 Allen key, Loctite

Step 1: Stripping the motor

Depending on where your motor came from, there may be a lot of ‘extra’ pieces still attached to it. Some of these will just get in your way while you prep your motor, some can’t be used for this swap.

  • Remove all accessories, which includes the alternator, power steering pump.
  • Remove any harnesses and brackets that are still connected to the motor.
  • Remove upper intake manifold (removing lower manifold is not necessary, but sometimes desirable. If removed, a new gasket should be used to reinstall).
  • Remove oil temperature sender:

  • Remove idler pulley/tensioner ‘spacer’ (seen below in red):

** The injector rail may also be removed, but that isn’t necessary.

Step 2: Cover any openings

There will be A LOT of metal shavings and dust around the motor, depending on how you do the cutting and grinding that comes later. These absolutely CANNOT be allowed to get into the motor.

  • intake ports in the top:

  • exhaust ports on the sides of motor:

  • fuel injector ports if fuel rail was removed:

  • the open ends of any coolant hoses/pipes:

Step 3: Modifying the motor 

Some parts of the motor will need to be cut somehow (tools, methods and results will vary) to allow for proper fitment and function once it’s reinstalled.

** Because of some concerns about the integrity of the stock oil gallery gasket, we at NISformance strongly recommend replacing it in this step. **

  • when changing the oil gallery gasket, this is a good time to grind away the center portion of the power steering bracket before reassembling the front of the motor.
  • grind/cut away the center portion of the power steering bracket. This requires some aggressive cutting, but also needs some attention to detail (cutting too DEEPLY can weaken the integrity of the timing cover. Cutting too WIDE can weaken the remaining brackets that will be needed to hold the alternator):

  • grind/cut away a portion of the metal where the idler pulley/tensioner spacer was:

  • remove exhaust manifold studs at the rearmost exhaust port (close to the trans). This requires an ‘E8‘ torx socket:

  • clean out the threads in the opposite holes using a ‘10×1.25‘ tap.
  • replace the removed studs into the newly cleaned holes:

  • remove lower oil pan.
  • remove upper oil pan.
  • use the oil pan from a 3.5 DE motor…but remove the windage tray. Add your o-rings and seals, and install upper oil pan onto the HR motor.
  • remove the HR water pump access cover, and replace it with the one from the DE motor

Step 4: Adjusting the cam signal wheel

This is a VERY important step and it must be done very carefully for your car to run properly. You have to be accurate.

Apart from the wiring, adjusting the signal wheel is the most detailed work you need to do on the swap. It is important to be very accurate when cutting or grinding, and it’s also extremely important to assemble everything correctly at the end of this step. Pay close attention to the pictures and make sure that your work looks EXACTLY the same!

*You will need to modify your 5/16 Allen key by cutting the arm down so that it is approximately 3/8″ long. This is your ‘special tool’ that you will need to use in this part of the swap.

  • open one of the valve covers.
  • using the ‘special tool’, loosen the signal wheel lock nut and remove the signal wheel from the intake cam:
  • completely remove the inner nubs from the signal wheel without damaging the rest of the inner surface:

  • at the crank, turn the motor until two notches are visible at the top of the cam:

  • add Loctite to the flat inner surface of the signal wheel:

  • reconnect the modified signal wheel to the intake cam…be sure to place it at the proper angle (as shown below) and resecure the lock nut:

  • close and bolt down the valve cover
  • open the other valve cover, and repeat these same steps.

Step 5: Cam Sensor Wiring

Now that all of the heavy wrenching is out of the way, we get to the really important part of your swap. The wiring harness in your car needs to be connected to the newer motor, and it’s not just a ‘plug-and-play’ situation. These diagrams show you the changes that need to be made to make your DE harness control your HR motor:

** THESE WIRE CONNECTIONS ARE CRITICAL. MAKE SURE THAT THEY ARE CONNECTED CORRECTLY (ACCORDING TO THE INSTRUCTIONS), AND SECURELY. TWISTING THEM TOGETHER IS NOT GOOD ENOUGH. **

The stock cam signal wire will be intercepted (cut) by the cam signal inverter supplied with the swap kit. There are six wires on the cam signal inverter…here’s how you connect them:

  • the RED wire goes to a 5v source from your car’s harness (to supply power to the sensor)
  • the BLACK wire is ground

For Cam #1…cut the existing wire:

  • the YELLOW inverter wire connects to the existing wire on the CAM side
  • the ORANGE inverter wire connects to the existing wire on the ECU side

For Cam #2…cut the existing wire:

  • the BLUE inverter wire connects to the existing wire on the CAM side
  • the GREEN inverter wire connects to the existing wire on the ECU side

my4dsc: 1654

my4dsc: 122

Member Credit: Shaquille Keon Jenkins & Philly Rillin‎

The 350z lightweight alternator pulley fits VQ35 Maxima’s. Same exact size. Its a little thick in the middle so the nut doesnt thread all the way in but with red loctite and an impact gun does the trick. Best part of all, it’s lighter!

 

my4dsc: 133

Member Credit: Gar Magat

To compare Stabilizer Bar Link between Moog and Genuine Nissan Link ( both are New Parts)

1. Moog is thicker but the movement of the link ball is tight and erratic. (RECOMMENDED)

2. Genuine OEM Link : is thinner ,but the movement of link ball is tight and smooth on all angle.

I bought the Moog link on ES site for $15.99 each compare to OEM for $49.99 at courtesyparts.com

my4dsc: 71

Member Credit: Anthony Carter

Tools Needed:

  • Hard Plastic Blade to Remove Shifter Cover and Bent Box (Flathead may mess up your dash)
  • #2 Phillips
  • Small Phillips
  • Small Flathead to help disconnect electrical connectors in back of climate control unit
  • 8mm Socket w/ Extension.

Pop out the vent up top.

Pop out the shifter cover plastic.

Remove 4 8mm bolts and pull the radio/climate control out.

Disconnect the electrical connectors.

Remove 4 Phillips head screws (pita) that hold climate control in.

Remove 4 small Phillips head screws from back of climate control.

Pop off white cover as shown in photo.

Replace bulbs.

Reinstall.

 

 

my4dsc: 75

Owner: Josh Almada

Social Media:

Year: 2002
Model: Maxima
Color:  Sterling Mist (KT3)
Transmission: Automatic to Manual 6-Speed Swap
Trim: SE

What motivated you to MOD your Maxima?

I’ve always had a passion for cars my whole life. I modded every car I had.  When I was in highschool my aunt was moving and had to sell her car. I researched and saw it had the same engine as the 350z I got excited and bought the car from her. I instantly fell in love. In 2009, I met a few OG members from maxima.org in the area. One member (Bryan) had a boosted 4th gen Maxima) and that’s where it all started. – Josh

Full Mod List / Specs:

  • Altima HR Motor Swap
  • HR Maxima Intake Manifold & Throttle Body
  • All Tig welded SS feed and 3″ Down Pipes
  • 3″ intercooler piping Tig welded
  • Same Side intercooler
  • Refreshed HX35
  • Tial 44mm Wastegate
  • Greddy RS Blow-off Valve
  • Fully Custom 3″ Exhaust w/ Magnaflow Muffler
  • 6-Speed Swap W/Titanium LSD Trans
  • One Piece SS Line
  • Spec Stage 3 Clutch
  • JWT Flywheel
  • ES Shifter Bushings
  • Oil Filter Sandwich Plate
  • Oil Pan Spacer
  • Mishimoto Radiator w/ Full Fan Setup
  • Aluminum Rad Brackets
  • Glowshift Gauges
    • Oil Pressure
    • Wideband
    • Boost
  • ES Engine Mounts
  • Admin Tuning Dual Feed/Dual Return Fuel System w/ Custom Rail
  • 340 Fuel Pump
  • Bosch 660 Injectors
  • Aeromotive Regulator
  • Aem FIC w/ NISformance PNP Harness
  • Viper Blue Painted Engine Bay
  • Stillen Strut Bar
  • Stillen Front & Rear Lip
  • Bc Coilovers
  • Enkei RPF1 Wheels
  • Modded Headlights w/ Clear Turn Signals
  • Tints Visors
  • Half-size Rear Visor
  • 2001 Tail Lights
  • Pioneer Head Unit
  • Kicker CVR 10″ Sub
  • Infiniti Kappa Speakers
  • Smoke Side Markers
  • Power Stop Slotted/ Drilled Rotors
  • 300ZX BBK

my4dsc: 1435

Owner: Marcos Eduardo Chavez Santini aka Chavez

Year: 2002
Model: Maxima
Color:  Majestic Blue Pearl (BW9)
Transmission: Manual 6-Speed
Trim: SE

This feature is dedicated to Marcos Chavez who went viral and became instantly famous in the world of racing after beating a Porsche 911 Turbo in his 2002 Turbo Nissan Maxima. The currently video has over 4 Million views on YouTube! Chavez has definitely made a name for the Nissan Maxima community. The car made 562.25 WHP / 592.97 TQ @ 17PSI. 

He’s Juan hell of a driver that knows how to drive a Manuel Nissan Maxima. 

Marcos is a very humble and quiet racer from Chihuahua, Mexico. He has a passion for the track. He took racing to the next level with his Nissan Maxima and proved how fast and quick you can make them. Marcos has also beaten many other cars such as Shelby Mustang’s and late model Corvette’s. He is definitely not a one-hit wonder. He’s also an active member of the my5thgen.org Facebook community and continues to race. We hope you enjoy this feature!

Dyno Numbers: 562.25 WHP / 592.97 TQ @ 17PSI

The Driver Behind The Machine…………….El Chavez!!!

The video that made Marcos famous (over 4 Million Views):

Quick Interview with Chavez

02′ Maxima Turbo vs 12′ Supercharged Camaro

 

02′ Nissan Máxima Turbo vs 16′ Chevy Corvette

 

Full Mod List / Specs:

  • Built/Sleeved VQ35DE Motor
  • Wiseco Forged Pistons (K605M96AP)
  • Eagle Connecting Rods
  • New Turbo: Precision 6262
  • Old Turbo: Holset HX35/40
  • Cometic Headgaskets
  • ARP Bolts & Studs
  • AEM Digital Gauges (Wideband, Controller & Oil Pressure)
  • SPEC Aluminum Light Weight Flywheel & Clutch (Rated for 521 Torque
  • AEM F/IC Piggyback
  • Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
  • Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR)
  • Chrysler Pink Injectors
  • Edelbrock Intercooler
  • Fully Custom Built Headers
  • Tial 38mm Wastegate
  • 3″ Piping
  • 2.5″ Exhaust Cutout
  • TEIN Coilovers
  • Runs on 12 PSI Mixing Gas with Toulene for Safety
  • 26 x 10.5 -16″ Mickey Thompson Drags Mounted on Nissan Altima Wheels (Track Setup)
  • Infiniti G35 Wheels (Daily Driving)
  • Sentra SE-R Spec-V Interior Front Seats
  • JL Audio Subwoofer
  • Sony Double-Din Headunit
  • Custom Grille & Nismo Emblems
  • Blue Painted Engine Cover

my4dsc: 1284