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my5thgen 00-03

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Member Credit: xlack

This is from a G37 but the procedure pretty much identical to Nissan Maximas.

OEM Oil Pan completely stripped of silicon residue:

JWT Oil Pan Spacer:

New silicon applied:

Brush used to remove silicon remains:

This bolt has to be bended in order for the oil pan spacer to fit. (guy from 370z forum had it cut off, but is not necessary):

Bolt is knocked back into position:

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Member Credits: Voltage Drop (NISformance) for the original installation diagram. Juan Gonzalez for the Plug Photos.

All you need to do is re-pin the wires. No need to extend them.

Re-pinning Instructions

Backside of completed M34 Wiring

Backside of completed M32 Wiring

Additional Photo’s

 

 

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Owner: Shawn “Syko” Gordon

Year: 2002
Model: Maxima
Color: Black
Transmission: Manual 6 Speed HLSD
Trim: GLE

Full Mod List / Specs:

  • VQ35DE Motor
  • R.I.P.P V5 Supercharger Kit (Running @ 7psi)
  • 2009 Maxima Idler Pulley for Supercharger
  • Cattman Headers
  • Cattman Gen 2 exhaust with upgraded resonator
  • 6-Speed with 4.133 FD Gearing
  • Helical Limited-Slip Differential
  • Short Throw Shifter – STS Mod
  • 350z Nismo Clutch
  • 6th gen Brake kit
  • Front & Rear Stillen lip
  • Viper 5901 Alarm
  • Fully Loaded with every option except factory Navigation
  • 350z Dead Pedal
  • Anniversary Edition Drilled Metal Pedals
  • Anniversary Edition Maxima Door Sills
  • Heated Seats/Mirrors/Steering Wheel
  • Titanium Stitching
  • Titanium Console
  • Titanium Tinted Gauges
  • Paradox Systems Chrome Gauge Rings
  • Blackout Headlights Mod – 6500k HID Bulbs
  • 6500K HID Foglight Kit
  • Smoked Front Side markers
  • LED installed in all of interior including cluster and key cylinder ring
  • Built Motor Specs
    • Wiseco 11.0:1 CR Pistons (.020 over stock)
    • Eagle Rods w/ARP Rod Bolts
    • Brian Crower 264/264 Cams
    • VQ35HR Valvesprings and Retainers
    • Double Shimmed Valvespring Seats
    • 5 Angle Serdi Valve job
    • Ported and Polished Heads
    • Heads Decked
    • New 6th Gen F/R Valve Covers
    • Fully Blueprint and Balance
    • Polished and Balanced Crank Independently
    • Balance as Rotating Assembly to 10k RPMs
    • OEM Main Crank Bearings
    • ACL Race Rod Bearings
    • HR Headbolts
    • HR Headgaskets
    • 350z Thermostat in Maxima Housing – Extra Shimmed
    • Energy Suspension Polyurethane Motor Mounts
    • Energy Suspension Polyurethane Control Arm Bushings
    • Energy Suspension Polyurethane Shifter Bushings
    • Energy Suspension Polyurethane Front Lower Subframe Bushings
    • Energy Suspension Polyurethane Front Swaybar Bushings

 

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Member Credit: Shift_Ice

Tools:

  • Dremel with a cutting tool
  • Oven
  • Small flathead screwdriver
  • Torx bit (on some models) – otherwise metric socket (size unknown)
  • Old towels
  • Channel locks
  • Purchase clear lens from Home Depot or frosted lens from Tap Plastics (contact info below):
    Tap Plastics Inc
    4538 Auburn Bl
    Sacramento, CA 95814

Clear Leans from Tap Plastics
1. Remove headlight from the vehicle. Take care not to scratch the fender with the metal mounting pin.

2. Remove bulbs and ballast from headlight. The ballast has a yellow and orange sticker in the picture below. It is attached with 3 screws.

To remove the HID bulb, rotate the plastic cover counterclockwise. Then squeeze the 2 metal pins toward each other. Take care not to touch the bulb!

3. Bake headlight in the oven on cookie sheet for 15-20 minutes at 200 – 250 degrees. The scary part:

4. Remove headlight from the oven with old towels (will be very hot)

5. Remove amber lens carefully. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pop lens out of tabs. Silver tabs are visible below.

6. Use the amber lens to trace onto the clear lens

7. Cut out the clear lens with Dremel. Lens from Tap Plastics comes pre-cut and drops right into place.

8. Install clear lens taking care to ensure that it fits snug under the tabs. If the lens is a little loose, apply 90-second epoxy lightly around the edge to assure a tight fit

9. Reassemble headlight as best you can and return headlight to oven

10. Bake for 15-20 minutes at 200 – 250 degrees

11. Remove from oven with old towels (will be very hot)

12. Use channel locks to assure a tight seal

13. Reinstall headlight

14. To produce a clear effect and retain amber blinking, I suggest using a chrome blinker bulb:

I purchased mine from autolumination. Alternatively, you can create your own by spraying the stock bulb with a light misting of silver paint.

15. Enjoy. The finished product:

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Member Credit: Shift_Ice / EddyMaxx

You can find these online using the part number. There are other manufacturers as well. I find this to be a simpler option in getting rid of the orange lens on the headlights. Gives the headlights a much cleaner look.

Part Number: ML11P2
Part Description: Intermatic Malibu ML11P2 Floodlights
Price: $20-$30 (Set of Two)

How-to Article: https://www.my4dsc.com/how-to-clear-the-orange-blinker-lens-on-5thgen-maxima-headlights/

Before

After

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Owner: Jaime J Dajer‎

Year: 2002
Model: Maxima
Color: Silver
Transmission: 4-Speed Automatic
Trim: SE

Highlights: This is a one-of-a-kind 5thgen Nissan Maxima with a RIPP Mods supercharger fabricated to fit the VQ35DE. It is using a R.I.P.P V5 supercharger kit that came off a Mitsubishi Eclipse GT V6. It’s also using water meth injection. Initially, it made 339.7whp & 306.3 fl-lbs torque on 440 injectors at 98%, ignition retarded timing set at +11 , 8 psi and a 2.6 pulley.

Videos

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Member Credit: NISformance

This article shows how to swap a 2007+ Altima 3.5L VQ35 engine, or 2009+ Maxima 3.5L engine into older Nissan Maxima’s. Including the 2002-2006 Altima (3.5L) and 2002-2008 Maximas. This motor swap is referred to as the 2nd Generation (Gen2) VQ35DE swap.

FB: https://www.facebook.com/NISformance/
Contact: darren@nisformance.com

FWD HR Engine Swap Kit – Version 2 ($220.00)

This kit allows you to swap a 2nd generation VQ35DE motor in a 2002-2008 Maxima or 2002-2006 Altima (3.5 V6) The NISformance 2nd Generation VQ35DE swap kit consist of five main components. The Cam sensor signal inverters, PNP throttle body adapter harness, Belt tensioner bracket, and Alternator bracket. Each component and its intended use is detailed below.

The camshaft sensor signal inverter allows the stock harness to be attached to a newer 2nd generation motor and intercept the camshaft signal wires. This is an essential part of the swap kit and has been designed with ease of install in mind. Each inverter with have a camshaft sensor plug pre-installed. Only wiring necessary are three wires consisting of ground, power, and signal.

The plug and play throttle body harness is necessary in order to utilize the 70 or 75 millimeter throttle body that is equipped on 2nd generation motors.

Sept 2018 Update: We have made several changes to our swap kit in order to improve function and ease of installation. Our V2 swap kit features new cam sensor signal inverters that use a 12V power source. This makes wiring much quicker and easier. Each inverter includes a camshaft sensor plug pre-installed. Both the alternator and belt tensioner brackets have been updated for better fit, brackets are now Zinc coated for higher corrosion resistance.

Ordering Link: http://www.nisformance.com/product-p/hrkitv2.htm

EPS Tuning Oil Gallery Gasket/Hardware Kit VQ35 FWD HR Head engine ($60.00)

Ordering Link: http://www.nisformance.com/EPS-Tuning-Oil-Gallery-Gasket-Hardware-Kit-p/oilgallerykitfwdhr.htm

VIAS Vacuum Hose Kit 2nd Gen VQ35DE ($9.00)

This Kit allows you to properly connect VIAS hassle free. Each kit includes high quality 5/32 Vacuum hose pre cut to the correct lengths for the 2nd Generation VQ35DE intake manifold.Outside port on VIAS solenoid goes to the manifold. Inner port goes to the Y splitter, then each VIAS control solenoid.

Ordering Link: http://www.nisformance.com/product-p/nis-vhk.htm

Other Optional Parts to Replace:

  • Coolant Log Gaskets ($7.99)
  • VQ35 Upper Oil Pan Gasket ($14.99)
  • Belt Tensioner Adjuster Bolt ($15.99)
  • Oil Cooler/Warmer Delete Kit FWD 2nd Gen VQ35DE ($49.99)

There are a few things to keep in mind before beginning your swap:

  • It’s easier to do this swap if you have a 3.5 DE motor laying around, especially if you just pulled it out of the car. You will need to take some things off of the old motor to use on the HR. Without this, there are a few parts that you will have to buy in order to complete the swap.
  • There are some specific tools needed: An ‘E8’ torx socket, 5/16 Allen key, Loctite

VQ35DE Motor Options

There are two generations of the front wheel drive VQ35DE. First generation motor 2002-2008 Maxima , 2002-2006 3.5L Altima. Second generation motor 2009+ Maxima , 2007+ 3.5L Altima. The second generation VQ35DE is equipped with an improved head and manifold design allowing for increased air flow and improved performance. Oil consumption and other flaws commonly found in first generation motors have also been eliminated.

There are two variations of the second generation VQ35DE. A Maxima motor is equipped with “EVT” ( Exhaust Valve Timing ) and has slightly higher compression when compared to an Altima motor, which is not equipped with “EVT”. In most swap applications that use a Maxima motor “EVT” is not used. In order to use “EVT” a different engine management system is necessary. However “EVT” is not necessary and does not negatively affect performance or reliability if left unused.

Step 1: Stripping the motor

Depending on where your motor came from, there may be a lot of ‘extra’ pieces still attached to it. Some of these will just get in your way while you prep your motor, some can’t be used for this swap.

  • Remove all accessories, which includes the alternator, power steering pump.
  • Remove any harnesses and brackets that are still connected to the motor.
  • Remove upper intake manifold (removing lower manifold is not necessary, but sometimes desirable. If removed, a new gasket should be used to reinstall).
  • Remove oil temperature sender:

  • Remove idler pulley/tensioner ‘spacer’ (seen below in red):

** The injector rail may also be removed, but that isn’t necessary.

Step 2: Cover any openings

There will be A LOT of metal shavings and dust around the motor, depending on how you do the cutting and grinding that comes later. These absolutely CANNOT be allowed to get into the motor.

  • Intake ports in the top:

  • Exhaust ports on the sides of motor:

  • Fuel injector ports if fuel rail was removed:

  • The open ends of any coolant hoses/pipes:

Step 3: Modifying the motor 

Some parts of the motor will need to be cut somehow (tools, methods and results will vary) to allow for proper fitment and function once it’s re-installed.

** Because of some concerns about the integrity of the stock oil gallery gasket, we at NISformance strongly recommend replacing it in this step. **

  • When changing the oil gallery gasket, this is a good time to grind away the center portion of the power steering bracket before reassembling the front of the motor.
  • Grind/cut away the center portion of the power steering bracket. This requires some aggressive cutting, but also needs some attention to detail (cutting too DEEPLY can weaken the integrity of the timing cover. Cutting too WIDE can weaken the remaining brackets that will be needed to hold the alternator):

  • Grind/cut away a portion of the metal where the idler pulley/tensioner spacer was:

  • Remove exhaust manifold studs at the rearmost exhaust port (close to the trans). This requires an ‘E8‘ torx socket:

  • Clean out the threads in the opposite holes using a ‘10 x 1.25‘ tap.
  • Replace the removed studs into the newly cleaned holes:

  • Remove lower oil pan
  • Remove upper oil pan
  • Use the oil pan from a 3.5 DE motor…but remove the windage tray. Add your o-rings and seals, and install upper oil pan onto the HR motor.
  • Remove the HR water pump access cover, and replace it with the one from the DE motor

Step 4: Adjusting the cam signal wheel

This is a VERY important step and it must be done very carefully for your car to run properly. You have to be accurate.

Apart from the wiring, adjusting the signal wheel is the most detailed work you need to do on the swap. It is important to be very accurate when cutting or grinding, and it’s also extremely important to assemble everything correctly at the end of this step. Pay close attention to the pictures and make sure that your work looks EXACTLY the same!

*You will need to modify your 5/16 Allen key by cutting the arm down so that it is approximately 3/8″ long. This is your ‘special tool’ that you will need to use in this part of the swap.

  • Open one of the valve covers.
  • Using the ‘special tool’, loosen the signal wheel lock nut and remove the signal wheel from the intake cam:
  • Completely remove the inner nubs from the signal wheel without damaging the rest of the inner surface:

  • At the crank, turn the motor until two notches are visible at the top of the cam:

  • Add Loctite to the flat inner surface of the signal wheel:

  • Reconnect the modified signal wheel to the intake cam…be sure to place it at the proper angle (as shown below) and re-secure the lock nut:

  • Close and bolt down the valve cover
  • Open the other valve cover, and repeat these same steps.

Step 5: Cam Sensor Wiring

Now that all of the heavy wrenching is out of the way, we get to the really important part of your swap.

Version 2 Kit –  Cam Sensor Signal Inverter Wiring

V2 inverters are single channel. One inverter is required for each camshaft position sensor.

Wiring for cam sensor signal inverter:

Red wire – 12 volt power supply (power going into the board)
Black wire – Ground
Orange wire – Signal out (connects to existing wire on ecu side)

Picture below demonstrates the older style DE cam sensor plug that is cut off when wiring in inverter with required wiring:

Version 1 Kit –  Cam Sensor Signal Inverter Wiring

The wiring harness in your car needs to be connected to the newer motor, and it’s not just a ‘plug-and-play’ situation. These diagrams show you the changes that need to be made to make your DE harness control your HR motor:

** THESE WIRE CONNECTIONS ARE CRITICAL. MAKE SURE THAT THEY ARE CONNECTED CORRECTLY (ACCORDING TO THE INSTRUCTIONS), AND SECURELY. TWISTING THEM TOGETHER IS NOT GOOD ENOUGH. **

The stock cam signal wire will be intercepted (cut) by the cam signal inverter supplied with the swap kit. There are six wires on the cam signal inverter…here’s how you connect them:

  • The RED wire goes to a 5v source from your car’s harness (to supply power to the sensor)
  • The BLACK wire is ground

For Cam #1…cut the existing wire:

  • The YELLOW inverter wire connects to the existing wire on the CAM side
  • the ORANGE inverter wire connects to the existing wire on the ECU side

For Cam #2…cut the existing wire:

  • The BLUE inverter wire connects to the existing wire on the CAM side
  • The GREEN inverter wire connects to the existing wire on the ECU side

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Member Credit: Chris Ashley

This should assist members who have the infamous fuel gauge issues on the 00-03 5thgen Nissan Maxima. You can easily test the fuel level sensor under backseat and verify the wiring. If both test good, then you need a cluster. It took about 30 minutes to perform the test.

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Credit: NISformance

This kit is designed to replace the factory oil cooler/warmer. Factory setup warms the engine oil and maintains it at coolant temperature. However, this often leaks or cannot be reused due to damage or contamination.

When using this delete kit vehicles must be driven carefully upon cold startup, no high rpm driving until oil temperature warms up *

Includes:

  • Block plug
  • Oil filter stud
  • Thermostat (without coolant hose fitting)
  • Gasket

Installation:

The block plug replaces the metal line running from block to the factory oil warmer plate

Oil filter stud is used for attaching oil filter to engine block once the oil warmer plate has been removed

Welded coolant block replaces factory coolant block as well as the rubber hose

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