Bored, dumping all dynos in here from now on. These are what I would call the “final” dynos of each car (or that car’s final dyno with each motor), photos will be included if possible. Not all of these are my cars, but all are cars I’ve worked on and taken to the dyno.
Before You Start:
The purpose of this modification is to re-wire your fog light relay under your hood to receive signal from an accessory source of power that is independent of anything else in the car, allowing you to turn on your fog lights without the headlights as well as run them with your high beams. The modification is very inexpensive and will avoid/end the problems with the “windshield wiper” write-up.
1. First off your going to want to locate the relay box located on the left side of your under hood as indicated by the arrow.
2. Then you will want to remove the reservoir in between you and the relay panel. This is attached by two 10mm bolts on the left side of the car. Following this, set the reservoir aside.
3. Next you will want to remove the cover from the relay box prying the two tabs holding it on outward and lift the cover up.
4. Now you will want to remove the air conditioning relay and the heated mirror relay if you are equipped with them. To do this, use your pry tool and insert on the side of the relay that has a clip, push away from the relay and then pull up on the relay itself.
5. Next remove the two exposed 10mm bolts holding the relay box in. Now pull up on the box and release the snap tab located on the bottom arm of the box.
6. Once the relay panel is free from the car you will need to open it to expose the wiring inside. To do this release the 3 clips on the right and left side of the box indicated with the arrows. Then open.
7. Now that you have the wiring exposed you are going to be working with the signal wire from the fog relay and the accessory power wire from the air conditioning relay. The yellow wire coming out of the fog relay is the wire you want to give +12V and the pink wire with a blue stripe from the A/C relay is where you will get it. To access the pink wire better you will probably need to remove the relay harness from the housing. To do this pry in the direction indicated and push out the bottom of the housing.
8. Now cut the yellow wire and without cutting the pink wire run a wire from it to the yellow wire leading into the blue relay harness.
9. I prefer soldering all of my connections but you can attach how you like. I highly recommend no matter what you do though, make sure to tape up everywhere you work. Make sure to tape up the open end of the yellow wire as well.
10. Now close everything up and reverse the previous steps to return everything how you found it. Flip your fog lights on and admire. You can turn them on whenever you want granted the car is on.
On the 4th Generation Maxima engine the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor is located in the water outlet tube close to the engine end of the upper radiator hose. There are two sensors in that area. The one nearest the hose is for the dashboard temperature gauge. The ECTS, the one you’re interested in, is right next to the the gauge sending unit. There is a good picture of these sensors in the Haynes manual on page 3-7.
With the engine cold, disconnect the ECTS and measure its resistance. Reconnect the ECTS, start the engine, run it until fully warmed up. Stop the engine, and repeat the resistance measurement. The “warm” reading should be a much lower value than the “cold” reading.
The specs for the ECTS are:
Engine coolant temperature 68F, ECTS resistance 2.1 – 2.9 Kohms
Engine coolant temperature 194F, ECTS resistance 0.24 – 0.26 Kohms
Below about 30 degrees idle will die if I don’t keep my foot on the gas at startup. Once engine is warm it’s OK.
Just a quick update for anyone having the same problem. Replaced the CTS (ECU Temp sensor in the picture) and guess what? My multi-year cold start problem is OVER! She runs like new again. Over $1000 spent on MAF, TB cleaning, and more and all I needed to do was replace a $9.00 sensor.
Year: 2000 Model: Nissan Maxima Color: Arctic White Transmission: Automatic to 5-Speed Conversion Trim: GXE
What motivated you to MOD your Maxima?
My father was in the max game when I was younger. I’ve always had a thing for Maxima’s but what really influenced me were the DCMAX and MDMAX cars in Maryland. Once I decided what route I wanted to go that was all she wrote…..
This will allow you to use a newer Mass Airflow Sensor to your 1995-1999 Nissan Maxima. This upgrade has been available for many years in the Maxima community. The newer MAF sensor is pretty much the same as 90% of the newer Nissan Models. Much cheaper and easier to find. You just need to be sure you also use the newer MAF housing when installing.
You can either get an OEM pigtail or use the one from eBay below. I went with the eBay pigtail which costs around $16 bucks shipped. The most important part is that you follow the pin order (wire colors do not really matter as long you follow pin order).
********************************* Important Note: In order to properly use this new MAF, your car will require tuning. The car will drive OK but your idle will be off and may fluctuate. If you’re preparing to get an ECU tune using stock ECU, make sure to let your tuner know so new MAF can be factored in. *********************************
For installing, you just need to match the wires as noted below. Very simple but please proceed with caution.
1995-1999 5thgen Maxima MAF Pinout
Pin 1: White = MAF signal (White) Pin 2: Ground (Black) Pin 3: +12v ( Red) Separate IAT Sensor Plug Pin 1: IAT Signal (Light Blue) Pin 2: Ground (Black)
Reference Wire (Red Wire): should be @ or just below 5 V. If this is low your MAF signal wire will send low #’s to the ECU.
GROUND WIRE (Black Wire): .05V or less – Should not change more than .02 volts with load or engine speed increase.
POWER WIRE (Red with Green Strip) Battery voltage. (13 – 15V) Should be close to the voltage you get when checking battery terminal to terminal. Alldata says 11-14.
IMO- If you have 11V your battery is either dead or you have an electrical problem….. again-IMO.
I couldn’t find any specs for the ground or reference so these are universal specs among all domestic/import MAF sensors.