Member Credit: Shaquille Keon Jenkins & Philly Rillin
The 350z lightweight alternator pulley fits VQ35 Maxima’s. Same exact size. Its a little thick in the middle so the nut doesnt thread all the way in but with red loctite and an impact gun does the trick. Best part of all, it’s lighter!
Member Credit: Gar Magat
To compare Stabilizer Bar Link between Moog and Genuine Nissan Link ( both are New Parts)
1. Moog is thicker but the movement of the link ball is tight and erratic. (RECOMMENDED)
2. Genuine OEM Link : is thinner ,but the movement of link ball is tight and smooth on all angle.
I bought the Moog link on ES site for $15.99 each compare to OEM for $49.99 at courtesyparts.com
Member Credit: Anthony Carter
Pop out the vent up top.
Pop out the shifter cover plastic.
Remove 4 8mm bolts and pull the radio/climate control out.
Disconnect the electrical connectors.
Remove 4 Phillips head screws (pita) that hold climate control in.
Remove 4 small Phillips head screws from back of climate control.
Pop off white cover as shown in photo.
Owner: Josh Almada
Color: Sterling Mist (KT3)
Transmission: Automatic to Manual 6-Speed Swap
What motivated you to MOD your Maxima?
I’ve always had a passion for cars my whole life. I modded every car I had. When I was in highschool my aunt was moving and had to sell her car. I researched and saw it had the same engine as the 350z I got excited and bought the car from her. I instantly fell in love. In 2009, I met a few OG members from maxima.org in the area. One member (Bryan) had a boosted 4th gen Maxima) and that’s where it all started. – Josh
Member Credit: Shaquille Keon Jenkins
This is a one-of-a-kind custom hood made by Shaquille himself. Definitely very creative and unique. First of its kind on a Nissan Maxima. Keep up the great work Shaquille!
Owner: Marcos Eduardo Chavez Santini aka Chavez
Color: Majestic Blue Pearl (BW9)
Transmission: Manual 6-Speed
This feature is dedicated to Marcos Chavez who went viral and became instantly famous in the world of racing after beating a Porsche 911 Turbo in his 2002 Turbo Nissan Maxima. The currently video has over 4 Million views on YouTube! Chavez has definitely made a name for the Nissan Maxima community. The car made 562.25 WHP / 592.97 TQ @ 17PSI.
He’s Juan hell of a driver that knows how to drive a Manuel Nissan Maxima.
Marcos is a very humble and quiet racer from Chihuahua, Mexico. He has a passion for the track. He took racing to the next level with his Nissan Maxima and proved how fast and quick you can make them. Marcos has also beaten many other cars such as Shelby Mustang’s and late model Corvette’s. He is definitely not a one-hit wonder. He’s also an active member of the my5thgen.org Facebook community and continues to race. We hope you enjoy this feature!
Member Credit: Orgullo
This is the battery relocation for the 2002/2003 Nissan Maxima. However, I’m sure it will work for the other gens too since it’s basically the same. I did this on my 5.5 and my boys 5.5 gen Max.
This set up is for people that already have a aftermarket intake. If you are running the Injen intake, like I was, then you can use it. Using your Injen intake you will need to get another midpipe ( berk, frankencar etc…) and another coupling.
Drill with 17/64 drill bit.
10mm Socket / Wrench.
Screw Driver / Flate head, Phillips head.
(1) 17/64th sized bolt.
How To: Relocating your batter and fuse box.
1) First of all turn your wheel all the way to the right.
2) Remove your Intake and next you need to remove your battery.
3) Remove the plastic cover, this will expose the (3) screws holding down
the battery tray. Take those out.
4) After removing the screws you will need to remove the fuse box. It is
held in place by two screws.
5) Looking at the tray you will see that the Positive terminal cable is
attached. Just pinch the zip tie and push it out. You should be able to
pull the tray out.
6) When you pull the tray out you’ll see that it has mounting points for the
fuse box, the positive terminal mounts and where the tray mounted to
the car. ALL of these need to be cut off. Use your dremel to accomplish
this. Now is the time for this kid to get his sanding and painting skills on.
7) Looking at where the tray was you’ll see a raised piece. This needs to
get cut off to make the surface flat. Just use the dremel to cut it off. If
you look close you’ll see small circle’s. This is the tack weld, lightly cut
over that circle and wedge your screw driver and pry it up. Take your
pliers and start turning it in a circle motion and it will pop right off.
8) Place your battery tray to sit parallel on the mounting point. You will use on of the existing holes to mount this.
9) Once you have it aligned slightly pick up the tray and you’ll see where the other screw will go. Use your sharpie to mark the spot in relation to the tray on the tray. Once this is marked take your tray off and drill out the spot where you just marked. Use the 17/64th drill bit to drill out the spot.
After you drill it out lay it in place to make sure it lines up perfectly. If it does then straight, if not check your alignment and drill it out. This is enough to secure the weight of the battery with NO problems. Do not secure the battery tray down just yet.
Next is aligning the fuse box.
10) Parallel the fuse box and push it snuggly against the battery tray. You will see where the original mounting point on the fuse box was. You are going to use it again. Take your sharpie, mark the spot and move it to the side. Take your drill and 17/64th drill bit and drill out the hole. Don’t worry there is nothing there but space. Put the fuse box in place and use your 17/64th bolt to secure it down.
This is what it should look like when you are done.
Now turn your INJEN WAI into a CAI. You will need a new midpipe and coupler to make this happen.
You have all this space to work with. Up underneath is open space. You will take your dremel and cut out a triangle shape, smiley face, whatever you like. J/K cut out a circle large enough for your piping to go through.
1) DO NOT go beyond this red line, you will be cutting into the frame. I found it easier to use a drill and drill holes, then take the dremel and cut the lines. Take your pliers and catch a corner and start turning in a circle. It will role up and come out easier. You can take your dremel and clean up the edges when you have finished.
2) Assemble your intake set up. Coupling, new midpipe, coupling, MAF, coupling, Long elbow of the Injen intake, coupling. You will assemble the Injen midpipe and filter inside the fender.
3) The Injen midpipe has a line for the vacuum. You will need to block this. I used some gasket making material. Also, on the long piping of the Injen there is the mounting point that you will need to cut off. You don’t have to but it looks better.
4) Place your intake set up in place.
5) After extending the piping into the fender you will need to pull the fender plastic towards you. You will see the piping coming down. You will then connect the Injen midpipe and filter to the piping coming in. This completes your intake set up.
note: Make sure all your couplers have been tightened down. Also, make sure you hook the vacuum line back up.
6) Everything is finished. Put your battery tray back on, secure it in place.
7) Put your fuse box in place and bolt it down.
8) Connect your battery negative and positive and your set.
It should look like this!!!
Running it short ram.
Member Credit: Travis Hall-Douglas
Member Credit: Matt Riney
In order to flash, you will need to purchase a OBD2 KKL VAG-COM 409.1 USB Cable. You can order from eBay.
The basic kernel is an implementation of an ISO14230-compliant protocol with extensions. It implements the following requests:
Below is quick walk through on installing and running rom raider, along with dumping a Nissan Sh7055 ECU with the Nisprog/Npkern software.
Npkern (Latest Version npk_7055_35.bin):
Links to Nissan Roms:
The process is carried out entirely over the OBD-II “K Line” serial communications link through an undocumented set of manufacturer-defined extensions to the standard ISO14230 protocol. Recently, the necessary commands have been reverse-engineered revealing the required steps:
The basic reflashing kernel will support gasoline ECUs with:
Unfortunately CAN-only ECUs are not currently supported.
Note : J2534 devices are not currently supported by freediag.
There are several important points to be aware of when using Nisprog: