Category

my5thgen 00-03

Category

my4dsc: 113

Member Credit: Gar Magat

To compare Stabilizer Bar Link between Moog and Genuine Nissan Link ( both are New Parts)

1. Moog is thicker but the movement of the link ball is tight and erratic. (RECOMMENDED)

2. Genuine OEM Link : is thinner ,but the movement of link ball is tight and smooth on all angle.

I bought the Moog link on ES site for $15.99 each compare to OEM for $49.99 at courtesyparts.com

my4dsc: 58

Member Credit: Anthony Carter

Tools Needed:

  • Hard Plastic Blade to Remove Shifter Cover and Bent Box (Flathead may mess up your dash)
  • #2 Phillips
  • Small Phillips
  • Small Flathead to help disconnect electrical connectors in back of climate control unit
  • 8mm Socket w/ Extension.

Pop out the vent up top.

Pop out the shifter cover plastic.

Remove 4 8mm bolts and pull the radio/climate control out.

Disconnect the electrical connectors.

Remove 4 Phillips head screws (pita) that hold climate control in.

Remove 4 small Phillips head screws from back of climate control.

Pop off white cover as shown in photo.

Replace bulbs.

Reinstall.

 

 

my4dsc: 67

Owner: Josh Almada

Social Media:

Year: 2002
Model: Maxima
Color:  Sterling Mist (KT3)
Transmission: Automatic to Manual 6-Speed Swap
Trim: SE

What motivated you to MOD your Maxima?

I’ve always had a passion for cars my whole life. I modded every car I had.  When I was in highschool my aunt was moving and had to sell her car. I researched and saw it had the same engine as the 350z I got excited and bought the car from her. I instantly fell in love. In 2009, I met a few OG members from maxima.org in the area. One member (Bryan) had a boosted 4th gen Maxima) and that’s where it all started. – Josh

Full Mod List / Specs:

  • Altima HR Motor Swap
  • HR Maxima Intake Manifold & Throttle Body
  • All Tig welded SS feed and 3″ Down Pipes
  • 3″ intercooler piping Tig welded
  • Same Side intercooler
  • Refreshed HX35
  • Tial 44mm Wastegate
  • Greddy RS Blow-off Valve
  • Fully Custom 3″ Exhaust w/ Magnaflow Muffler
  • 6-Speed Swap W/Titanium LSD Trans
  • One Piece SS Line
  • Spec Stage 3 Clutch
  • JWT Flywheel
  • ES Shifter Bushings
  • Oil Filter Sandwich Plate
  • Oil Pan Spacer
  • Mishimoto Radiator w/ Full Fan Setup
  • Aluminum Rad Brackets
  • Glowshift Gauges
    • Oil Pressure
    • Wideband
    • Boost
  • ES Engine Mounts
  • Admin Tuning Dual Feed/Dual Return Fuel System w/ Custom Rail
  • 340 Fuel Pump
  • Bosch 660 Injectors
  • Aeromotive Regulator
  • Aem FIC w/ NISformance PNP Harness
  • Viper Blue Painted Engine Bay
  • Stillen Strut Bar
  • Stillen Front & Rear Lip
  • Bc Coilovers
  • Enkei RPF1 Wheels
  • Modded Headlights w/ Clear Turn Signals
  • Tints Visors
  • Half-size Rear Visor
  • 2001 Tail Lights
  • Pioneer Head Unit
  • Kicker CVR 10″ Sub
  • Infiniti Kappa Speakers
  • Smoke Side Markers
  • Power Stop Slotted/ Drilled Rotors
  • 300ZX BBK

my4dsc: 1377

Owner: Marcos Eduardo Chavez Santini aka Chavez

Year: 2002
Model: Maxima
Color:  Majestic Blue Pearl (BW9)
Transmission: Manual 6-Speed
Trim: SE

This feature is dedicated to Marcos Chavez who went viral and became instantly famous in the world of racing after beating a Porsche 911 Turbo in his 2002 Turbo Nissan Maxima. The currently video has over 4 Million views on YouTube! Chavez has definitely made a name for the Nissan Maxima community. The car made 562.25 WHP / 592.97 TQ @ 17PSI. 

He’s Juan hell of a driver that knows how to drive a Manuel Nissan Maxima. 

Marcos is a very humble and quiet racer from Chihuahua, Mexico. He has a passion for the track. He took racing to the next level with his Nissan Maxima and proved how fast and quick you can make them. Marcos has also beaten many other cars such as Shelby Mustang’s and late model Corvette’s. He is definitely not a one-hit wonder. He’s also an active member of the my5thgen.org Facebook community and continues to race. We hope you enjoy this feature!

Dyno Numbers: 562.25 WHP / 592.97 TQ @ 17PSI

The Driver Behind The Machine…………….El Chavez!!!

The video that made Marcos famous (over 4 Million Views):

Quick Interview with Chavez

02′ Maxima Turbo vs 12′ Supercharged Camaro

 

02′ Nissan Máxima Turbo vs 16′ Chevy Corvette

 

Full Mod List / Specs:

  • Built/Sleeved VQ35DE Motor
  • Wiseco Forged Pistons (K605M96AP)
  • Eagle Connecting Rods
  • New Turbo: Precision 6262
  • Old Turbo: Holset HX35/40
  • Cometic Headgaskets
  • ARP Bolts & Studs
  • AEM Digital Gauges (Wideband, Controller & Oil Pressure)
  • SPEC Aluminum Light Weight Flywheel & Clutch (Rated for 521 Torque
  • AEM F/IC Piggyback
  • Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
  • Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR)
  • Chrysler Pink Injectors
  • Edelbrock Intercooler
  • Fully Custom Built Headers
  • Tial 38mm Wastegate
  • 3″ Piping
  • 2.5″ Exhaust Cutout
  • TEIN Coilovers
  • Runs on 12 PSI Mixing Gas with Toulene for Safety
  • 26 x 10.5 -16″ Mickey Thompson Drags Mounted on Nissan Altima Wheels (Track Setup)
  • Infiniti G35 Wheels (Daily Driving)
  • Sentra SE-R Spec-V Interior Front Seats
  • JL Audio Subwoofer
  • Sony Double-Din Headunit
  • Custom Grille & Nismo Emblems
  • Blue Painted Engine Cover

my4dsc: 1182

Member Credit: Orgullo

This is the battery relocation for the 2002/2003 Nissan Maxima. However, I’m sure it will work for the other gens too since it’s basically the same. I did this on my 5.5 and my boys 5.5 gen Max.

This set up is for people that already have a aftermarket intake. If you are running the Injen intake, like I was, then you can use it. Using your Injen intake you will need to get another midpipe ( berk, frankencar etc…) and another coupling.

Tools: 

Sharpie.
Dremel.
Drill with 17/64 drill bit.
10mm Socket / Wrench.
Screw Driver / Flate head, Phillips head.
Pliers
(1) 17/64th sized bolt.

How To: Relocating your batter and fuse box.

1) First of all turn your wheel all the way to the right.

2) Remove your Intake and next you need to remove your battery.

3) Remove the plastic cover, this will expose the (3) screws holding down
the battery tray. Take those out.

4) After removing the screws you will need to remove the fuse box. It is
held in place by two screws.

5) Looking at the tray you will see that the Positive terminal cable is
attached. Just pinch the zip tie and push it out. You should be able to
pull the tray out.

6) When you pull the tray out you’ll see that it has mounting points for the
fuse box, the positive terminal mounts and where the tray mounted to
the car. ALL of these need to be cut off. Use your dremel to accomplish
this. Now is the time for this kid to get his sanding and painting skills on.

7) Looking at where the tray was you’ll see a raised piece. This needs to
get cut off to make the surface flat. Just use the dremel to cut it off. If
you look close you’ll see small circle’s. This is the tack weld, lightly cut
over that circle and wedge your screw driver and pry it up. Take your
pliers and start turning it in a circle motion and it will pop right off.

8) Place your battery tray to sit parallel on the mounting point. You will use on of the existing holes to mount this.

9) Once you have it aligned slightly pick up the tray and you’ll see where the other screw will go. Use your sharpie to mark the spot in relation to the tray on the tray. Once this is marked take your tray off and drill out the spot where you just marked. Use the 17/64th drill bit to drill out the spot.
After you drill it out lay it in place to make sure it lines up perfectly. If it does then straight, if not check your alignment and drill it out. This is enough to secure the weight of the battery with NO problems. Do not secure the battery tray down just yet.

Next is aligning the fuse box.

10) Parallel the fuse box and push it snuggly against the battery tray. You will see where the original mounting point on the fuse box was. You are going to use it again. Take your sharpie, mark the spot and move it to the side. Take your drill and 17/64th drill bit and drill out the hole. Don’t worry there is nothing there but space. Put the fuse box in place and use your 17/64th bolt to secure it down.

This is what it should look like when you are done.

Now turn your INJEN WAI into a CAI. You will need a new midpipe and coupler to make this happen.

You have all this space to work with. Up underneath is open space. You will take your dremel and cut out a triangle shape, smiley face, whatever you like. J/K cut out a circle large enough for your piping to go through.

1) DO NOT go beyond this red line, you will be cutting into the frame. I found it easier to use a drill and drill holes, then take the dremel and cut the lines. Take your pliers and catch a corner and start turning in a circle. It will role up and come out easier. You can take your dremel and clean up the edges when you have finished.

2) Assemble your intake set up. Coupling, new midpipe, coupling, MAF, coupling, Long elbow of the Injen intake, coupling. You will assemble the Injen midpipe and filter inside the fender.

3) The Injen midpipe has a line for the vacuum. You will need to block this. I used some gasket making material. Also, on the long piping of the Injen there is the mounting point that you will need to cut off. You don’t have to but it looks better.

4) Place your intake set up in place.

5) After extending the piping into the fender you will need to pull the fender plastic towards you. You will see the piping coming down. You will then connect the Injen midpipe and filter to the piping coming in. This completes your intake set up.

note: Make sure all your couplers have been tightened down. Also, make sure you hook the vacuum line back up. 

6) Everything is finished. Put your battery tray back on, secure it in place.

7) Put your fuse box in place and bolt it down.

8) Connect your battery negative and positive and your set.

It should look like this!!!

Running it short ram.

 

my4dsc: 49

Member Credit: Matt Riney

The latest and completed Kern 7055_35 is now available for flashing!

  • Kernel 7055_35 is used by the early ecus 2002 & 2003 Maxima (and 2004 in most cases).
  • Kernel 7058 is used for 05+ Maxima
  • It’s all based on the ROM size. If the ROM size is 512K then  you should use the 7055_35 kernel. If the ROM size is 1024K then you use the 7058 kernel.

In order to flash, you will need to purchase a OBD2 KKL VAG-COM 409.1 USB Cable. You can order from eBay.

Kernel Features

The basic kernel is an implementation of an ISO14230-compliant protocol with extensions. It implements the following requests:

  • Fast ROM dump (tested up to 5.4 kB/s; typical speed is ~100 B/s without a kernel)
  • Read ROM/RAM/external EEPROM
  • Write to RAM
  • Erase flash ROM block
  • Write flash ROM block

Below is quick walk through on installing and running rom raider, along with dumping a Nissan Sh7055 ECU with the Nisprog/Npkern software.

 

Links to software:

Rom Raider:
http://www.romraider.com/RomRaider/Do…

Java:
https://java.com/en/download/

Nisprog:
http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewto…

Npkern (Latest Version npk_7055_35.bin):
https://github.com/fenugrec/npkern/tr…

Definitions:
https://github.com/murphyslaw05/Nissa…

Links to Nissan Roms:
http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewto…

How Does the Reflash Process Work?

The process is carried out entirely over the OBD-II “K Line” serial communications link through an undocumented set of manufacturer-defined extensions to the standard ISO14230 protocol. Recently, the necessary commands have been reverse-engineered revealing the required steps:

  1. Establish connection to the ECU.
  2. Send the first stage data payload: this is the “kernel”, a simple program that will receive commands and data for the reflash.
  3. Make the ECU run the kernel. From this point on, the kernel runs from RAM and effectively takes control of the whole ECU.
  4. Send the reflash commands and new firmware data to the kernel.
  5. Reset the ECU: the new firmware will now be executed, and the kernel will be completely removed.

Requirements

The basic reflashing kernel will support gasoline ECUs with:

  • SH7055 or SH7058, 0.18um microcontrollers (the most common types)
  • K line wired to the OBD-II connector pin 7

Unfortunately CAN-only ECUs are not currently supported.

Host computer:

  • OS: Linux and Windows are known to work; Nisprog is based on freediag source code which is cross-platform and should run on most Linux/UNIX flavors.
  • Connectivity: a simple USB-OBD adapter is required. These are the “Generic dumb serial adaptors” described in the freediag docs.

Note : J2534 devices are not currently supported by freediag.

Limitations

There are several important points to be aware of when using Nisprog:

  • The ECU is a safety-critical system in a car. Reflashing an ECU can void warranties, reduce the vehicle’s reliability, and cause a whole variety of undesirable consequences. Use of this project and any associated tools (freediag, Nisprog, etc) is of course entirely at the user’s risk. Standard disclaimers apply.
  • Reflashing an ECU may be illegal in some areas. Responsibility in this matter lies again with the user.
  • Diesel ECUs are not supported, they are entirely different.
  • Tuning and modifying ROMs are complex skills that can only be acquired through significant investments of time and effort!

my4dsc: 1102