my5thgen 00-03


Member Credits: Voltage Drop (NISformance) for the original installation diagram. Juan Gonzalez for the Plug Photos.

All you need to do is re-pin the wires. No need to extend them.

Re-pinning Instructions

Backside of completed M34 Wiring

Backside of completed M32 Wiring

LED Color Swap (By Eddy)

The Infiniti i35 has a single light source which makes it easy to swap to an LED strip. Below is what is commonly used since it allows you change the color as you want. I went with blue but good to have options. I tapped into an ACC power source for the lightening.

Order Link:

Additional Photo’s



Member Credit: 6spd_Hayes

Disclaimer: If you attempt any of what you see from my post, you do so at your own risk. The following is a summary of my experience.

The Car: 2002 Maxima SE
Transmission: 6 speed, HLSD, RS6F51A
Mileage: 174,000 mi. (approx.)
Situation: November 1st, 2014. I jumped in the Maxima, running late to a funeral in Tennessee. Pushed clutch to floor and started it. I could not get gear shifter out of third gear no matter how hard I tried. Something was obviously broken in the transmission.

After a lot of online research, I purchased a 29,066 mile 6 speed, HLSD transmission from a 2006 Nissan Sentra Spec-V (p/n RS6F51H) from Kindly gentlemen cargo shipped it from a junkyard in Arkansas to my door step in North Alabama for $XXX (will update when I remember it). The following were the only differences in the two transmissions: (1) bellhousings were different, (2) final drive ratio were different (3.812 vs 4.133), (3) Maxima – 1st & 2nd gear dual synchro, SpecV – 1st gear dual synchro, 2nd gear triple synchro.

Sentra SpecV Transmission As Received:

Work Setup:

  • Set each transmission on cardboard covered work bench side by side (cardboard to protect mating surfaces on transmission and soak up any grease/oil/fluids)
  • For fasteners, blow up and print out FSM pages and glue to cardboard. Poke fasteners through on board where you take them out of transmission
  • Take off parts from each transmission at same time, label in Ziploc bag
  • For large parts, label and place in its own cardboard box
  • Clean as you go (scrape off gasket material, use acetone/cloth) to clean
  • Follow both factory service manuals for breakdown/buildup



Maxima Speedo Sensor Block-off Plate

SpecV Speedo Sensor

Maxima Transaxel Case Stamp

SpecV Transaxel Case Stamp



Maxima Control Assembly, Sensors, and Case Bolts Removed

SpecV Control Assembly, Sensors, and Case Bolts Removed

Maxima Transaxel Case Removed (at this point forward, they both look the same

Maxima Spread Spring Debris and Detail

Based on the pictures below, it appears the spread spring in the 3rd-4th synchronizer broke and lodged itself in to prevent the sliding action between gears.

Maxima – Reverse Tilt Mechanism Removed

Maxima – Re-test fitting reverse tilt mechanism (to make sure I understood its reassembly)

Maxima – Reverse shift fork and rod

Maxima – Reverse Gear Stack

Maxima – Re-test fit reverse shift fork

Maxima – Shifter bracket Detail

Maxima – Gear Stacks and Differential

SpecV – Gear Stacks and Differential

Maxima – Input, Main, & Reverse Shafts and Axels

Maxima – Final Drive & HLSD

SpecV – Final Drive and HLSD

SpecV – Reverse Gear Set

Cleaned Maxima Bellhousing (Used acetone and cloth)

Cleaned Differential Side of Bellhousing

Maxima Final Drive and HLSD from SpecV

SpecV Reverse Gear Set

SpecV Gear Stacks and Maxima Final Drive in Bellhousing

Maxima Final Drive Meshed with SpecV Mainshaft

SpecV Mainshaft Meshed with SpecV Input Shaft

SpecV Input Shaft Meshed with SpecV Reverse Gear Set

Detail SpecV Main and Input Shaft

SpecV 5th/6th Shifter Fork with Maxima 5th/6th Shifter Fork Rod Detail

The SpecV 5th/6th Shifter Fork Rod had a pretty significant burr on it, and wouldn’t actuate properly. So I used the Maxima version.

SpecV Check Ball and Spacer for 5th/6th Rod

SpecV 1st through 4th Shifter Fork with SpecV Rod Detail

SpecV 1st/2nd Shifter Fork Detail

SpecV Reverse Bracket Detail

SpecV Reverse Shifter Fork Detail

SpecV Reverse Tilt Mechanism Assembly

SpecV Check Ball and Spacer for Reverse Rod Mechanism

Fully Assembled SpecV Guts and Transaxel Case on Maxima Bellhousing

SpecV Shifting Mechanism

Fully Assembled Transmission on Hoist

Member Credit: TunerMax

I know some of you were interested in wiring your Map light(s) to illuminate when the Dome turned on, and some of you already have. Either way, I thought I’d let you know what I’ve figured out.

The best way I see to do it properly:

Tap into the ground wire (Dome light to SECU [Smart Entrance Control Unit]) Terminal #31 between the SECU and Dome light and install a relay there. I’d do this AT the SECU, most room to work. You want to hook this into the trigger side of the relay.

Here is the location of the SECU:

Then run a 2 Wire cord (preferrably one line with a tracer) from there, up to the Map light (up the Left A pillar and over).

The switch Wiring in the Map light seems to differ. I found 2 set ups.

1. On my car it’s a Single Map light, and it is wired with power to one side of the switch, then when you press the switch power flows through the light and to ground. (standard switch set-up)

2. It appears on some models, with 2 map lights, power is supplied to the light bulbs, and the switches are installed on the ground side (makes the ground connection).

Hooking up the wiring for the first one is easier, all you have to do is attatch (solder) one wire to the bulb side (see wiring diagram), and one wire to the live (+) side. Then down at your relay, connect the wire you connected to live (+) to the relay, and connect the wire you connected to the bulb side on the other end.

Here is my amazing Wiring diagram of the new set-up:

The second way, you have to change the switch type for the Map light.
+ must be triggered by the push switch (before the bulb). That change is pretty straight forward, nothing real complicated, if there are any of you that don’t understand how to do it, post a good picture of your Map lights (unit removed, picture of the back side wiring) and I’ll show you what to do.

So with this set up, we have No diodes, everything operates normally, no extra bulbs. Only thing that changes, is the Map light comes on when the dome light illuminates

I thought I’d let you all know how to do it, in case you were scratching your heads on it, I know some of you have done different things to get this function, some pretty creative, some a little chinsy, anyways…

I know initially you’d just think, jump a wire from the Dome light, and if you don’t have a sunroof, I’d consider it.

I have a sunroof though so this is the best way I can think of (to have it operate properly without installing extra lights and non-sense)

Pull out the Map Light, and unscrew the Sunglass holder. Also pop the cover off the Left A-Pillar. This pic shows all 3 removed, and my wire fish run through already:

Now run your wire fish from the corner of the headliner on the A-Pillar side into the sunglass holder hole. You can probably use a coat hanger or just push the wire through, it’s pretty easy going, everything is framed in the corner.

Hook your 2wire cord onto the wire fish, and feed it through toward the A-Pillar

Now you want to run the wire fish from the fuse panel area (by pedals) up to the A-Pillar base (top of dash). Hook up again and pull through. This pic is with the wire already run.

Now the easy part Locate your SECU, remove the harness connectors (3) and move the wiring so you can work with it easier. And Use my Guide in the OP to locate the proper terminal. It`s a process of elimination to find the harness you want, mine was the middle one, I would assume all years will be the same. I know the terminal designation is the same.

Here`s the wire we want.

Now cut it.

That`s right, only genuine Nissan Parts Any standard SPST relay will work.

I kind of cheated with this wiring cause I ran out of female spades and I wanted to get it done. So the Constant power wire (has red insulation on it in pic) needs to be doubled up (split wire, add 2 female spade connectors). You`ll see what I did in the second pic

Above is everything hooked up except the Ground (terminal wire you cut). I Forgot a pic of the Crimp on the Terminal wire. You just want to join them together into a Female spade connector, you can see it pretty clearly in the pic below (red wire). Please ignore the crudity of the wiring install, it’s temporary, I’ll be installing a SPDT Relay to run my LED handle lighting, at that point I’ll be re-doing the wiring and mounting the Relay

Now, wire in that MAP Light. Hook up the Constant Positive wire (with tracer) to the Constant Positive connection at the Switch

And then hook up the intermittent Positive wire (no tracer) to the output side of the switch (to bulb). I didn`t post a pic of this cause I couldn`t get a good enough picture of it. Plug in the SECU harnesses, the MAP light and DOME light should come on (if you hooked everything up correctly, and the door is open)

If everything works, install all components and make sure all wiring, etc is secure. And enjoy your new modifcation every time you open your door or unlock your car!

Lights off:

Unlock button pressed, lights illuminate:

Door opened:

Just so you know, you can`t shut off your MAP light while the door is open, I don`t know why you`d want to though. It still functions normally when the doors are closed. Another great thing about this mod is, you can shut off the Dome light and have only the MAP light illuminate if you want to (kids in the back sleeping, but you still need light when the door opens) Enjoy!

Member Credit: TunerMax

I had a free SMD LED board from HIDextra and decided to install some under hood lighting, something they should have done at Nissan. Thought I’d share this with you guys I’m sure there are quite a few of you that would be very interested in doing this.

Tools Needed:

  1. LED Board, preferably 3×3 or larger SMD type with 3M tape backing I recommend installing a few, or using standard incandecent lighting (I’ll be changing to that set up) It’s up to you, wiring is the same.
  2. About 10-15′ of 2wire cord. 18AWG is fine
  3. 2 – 18AWG ‘butt’ connectors
  4. 1 – 3/16″ shrink tube
  5. Solder and electrical tape

Locate your security system hood switch

This switch is GROUND triggered. Unplug it, you want to tap into the Security circuit side, that’s the yellow wire.
Strip it or cut it, up to you, but you want to tap into this wire.

Run your wire, I mounted my LED board next to the A/C tag, you can put multiple lights (I’ll definitely add a few later, or change out to incandescent lighting) or put them where ever you want. I’m just showing you where I chose though.

Run it under the hood insulation, over to the hinge and around your strut tower mount, over to the fuse panel next to the battery, and finally to the yellow wire for the hood switch. Do a good job of this or you’ll just blow a fuse and have to re-do it anyway. Make sure the wire isn’t going to rub anywhere and make sure it’s well secured.

Strip back the 2 wire cord, separating the 2 wires from each other. Strip back one wire until it’s separated at the fuse panel. I didn’t take pics of this, I apologize, you can just bare the wire and install it on the ‘out’ side of a 10A fuse, or you can do it properly and remove the fuse panel, and solder into the ‘out’ terminal of a 10A fuse port.

Either way make sure you fuse it, you’ll be running live power constantly to the hood light(s), and that wire moves every time the hood opens.

Now hook up the other wire to the yellow wire on the hood switch.

If you have labeled 2 wire (tracer line on one wire) then you can just hook up the LED + to + and – to -. If you’re unsure, bare the wires and test them, as soon as it’s hooked up correctly the LED’s will come on.

Double check that they shut off when the switch is depressed:

Now secure all wiring, loom, and shrink wrap connections, tidy up and enjoy the light when you open that hood!!

Start to finish this took me about 20mins in the dark. Expect a bit more if you’re adding more lights. A Cheap, quick and very usefull upgrade!

And for those of you concerned, NO this will not in any way affect your security system.

Member Credit: DaBoxSE

So my buddy and I did and overhaul last week on my car…I finally replaced my grinding transmission, rear main seal and replaced the Clutch. I wanted to put in something better than the stock maxima clutch because I thought it would be pretty weak. Also because I’ve had an Exedy Stage 1 in my 93 VE and loved it. As an alternative to the expensive Stage clutches for the 5.5 gen, I ordered a 350Z clutch from Dave B and prayed it would install no problem. Low and behold, it bolted right up. After putting the car back together, our first start caused a loud knocking sound…We couldn’t explain it, because he had done a ton of other work to the car including removing the Upper oil pan to install the front and rear seals. The noise went away eventually and now it doesn’t make a sound. Very strange.

I gotta say, the 350Z clutch is great! I love it. The pedal is much lighter in feel than the stock maxima clutch, and when engaging it bites, yet smoothly with almost no chatter. I didn’t have to adjust the pedal or anything. The engaging spot is right in the lower middle. The car just feels like it grabs effortlessly and with the cleaned out oil pan, intake manifold and new iridium plugs, the car feels like new. I’m definitely impressed.

Stock on the Left and 350Z on right:

Friction Discs (notice how much heavier duty it is)

Pressure Plates (they weigh about the same too)

350Z Friction Disc

Pressure Plate Installed

“new” 03 6spd HLSD Transmission – Tried to get an 04, but none available in the time frame I needed it

“old” 02 6spd HLSD Transmission – Can you believe this thing was still drivable. (Yes that’s a mix or gear fluid, motor oil and crap)

Rear Main Seal

Additional Insight from Member qnpark8282

I recently installed an HR clutch with Fidanza flywheel. So not only regular 350z clutch fits the HR clutch fits also. The clutch is very very light compared to stock and engages 10x smoother than stock.

Member Credit: Eddymaxx

I recently installed an Auto Meter 22813 triple gauge pod and Ortiz clock replacement pod on my 2002 5thgen Maxima. The Auto Meter pod goes over your existing pod and fits perfect. I’m happy with the overall setup.

Auto Meter Part Number: 22813 (Price Approx. $90 bucks or so). You can find it on eBay.

Ortiz Custom Pod Part Number: OCPN-65 (Price $109.00). You have to order it directly through their site below.
Order Link:

Left Gauges: Water Temp, Oil Pressure, Fuel Pressure
Center Gauges: Oil Temp, Air/Fuel, Boost

Member Credit:  bigfatty

I have been getting a few PMs on this from time to time, but most questions have been answered somewhere in this thread, take some time and read because there is alot of good info in here from people other than me. I swapped only two coils in Jan of 2006 and through Oct 2007 have not had a single problem with any additional coils. If you can isolate the bad coil, why replace all 6?

Sooooooo, I had the frigging SES, TCS, SLIP lights which any 5th gen owner should now know is code P1320, which means, drum roll please, Bad Ignition Coil. I was also luckily enough not just to have code once, but twice and also to have a code P0300, which is multiple misfires. I was able to get the codes pulled for free from my Autozone and so I started my quest to fix my car.

Some background info: The original coils from Nissan are garbage and Nissan knows this, yet they have chosen to do nothing about it. They did however update the coils with “newer” ones with a gray dot, that were supposed to be awesome. Well I open my hood, take off the cover and guess what, all my coils have gray dots. So I guess that blows that idea up. I bought my car in 2003 with 80k in miles from Woodfield Nissan in Illinois. So at some point in time they had already been replaced.

Ok, back to my test, I donated to so I could search and spent a night reading about just bad coils. The general consensus is that you should replace all 6 when one goes bad. The rough best price was about $300 for all six. The only problem is that I have this in my life right now that causes me to be short on money.

So after reading, I found a few things that will help in changing just the bad coils as I have done. I can not take credit for this info as pretty much all of it has been tried before, I am just trying to make it as easy as possible for everyone else.

Step #1 – Autozone

You may be lucky enough to have an additional code stored in your cars computer. If you have code P1320 with any P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305 or P0306, that is a misfire on specific cylinder. You now know which one is bad just replace that one, see the pics below on how to remove the coil.

Step 2 – Unplug coil one at a time

Remove your cover by taking the four bolts off your cover, you will need a 4mm allen wrench.

This test will only work if your engine is running really bad idle. If your SES/TCS/SLIP only come on when your engine is under load this test will not work, skip to step 3. My engine was running really rough even at idle, so I started to unplug the coils on at a time. Just squeeze the clip and pull, it will come off.

The first one I tried cylinder #2, when unplugged, made no difference at all in how the engine ran. SO I instantly knew that one was bad. If your coil is good you engine will bog down and almost stall, as you are basically removing a running cylinder. Do this one at a time until you find the one, that when removed, your engine does not seem to run any rougher.

Step 3 – Testing the resistance

You will need a multimeter to do this. I have had mine for a while and it worked fine for this. Its nothing big, and you can pick mine up at Sears for only $19.99. Remove all your coils.

The front three coils are right there held in by one 10mm bolt each. Unplug the clip, remove the bolt and pull. The coil will come right out.

Member Credit: maxiiiboy

Symptom (when turning the ignition switch to START)

Likely Cause

No Crank, No Nothing (not even dashboard lights)If the car starts with a boost, then the battery is bad. If not, suspect the ignition switch, the battery cables, fuses, or ground/power distribution.
No Crank, just a Faint ClickBad PNP switch, or Clutch Interlock, or Inhibitor Relay or fuse #20 (AT) or fuse #21 (M/T), both in the Fuse Block.
No Crank, but the Starter Clicks or Spins very fastBad starter or starter solenoid
Cranks But No Start (starter cranks, but the engine does not fire up)If the red secuirty light is ON during cranking, then this is a NATS problem. Otherwise, bad Camshaft Sensor, or bad ENG CONT1 fuse (in Fusible Link and Fuse Box), or bad/no fuel delivery.
Engine Starts, then DiesBad MAF, IACV, Cam/Crank sensors, Coils, or Injectors stuck flooding.


Fuse/Relay Box Locations:

  • Fuse Block (J/B): Lower dash panel, by driver’s left hand
  • Fusible Link and Fuse Box: Engine compartment, driver side, next/left to battery
  • Relay Box 1: Engine compartment, pasenger-side, next to P/S
  • Relay Box 2: Just behind front driver-side light