Category

my5thgen 00-03

Category

Member Credit: 95naSTA

The point of this thread is to give people a heads up on what they’ll have to do to use the 07 Altima motor with the 3.0 timing. If you have the time/skill/money a full 3.5 swap will always out perform a hybrid setup. This is just for people that are lacking any of those and want something better than a typical hybrid swap.

Most importantly, this is for people who know how to read stickys. I will not be telling you how to do a hybrid swap. That info is already out there.

Findings:

  • The upper/lower oil pans, oil pick up tube, and dip stick need to be swapped to a VQ30 or manual trans VQ35 5th/6th gen since the exhaust tunnel isn’t as high and will interfere with the front bank’s exhaust.
  • Cylinders 5/6 need the exhaust manifold studs swapped diagonally to work with the older gen VQ35’s.
  • The older crank pulley needs to be swapped on.
  • There are two knock sensors, one for each bank. I’ll be bolting up a 4th gen sensor to the rear bank.
  • The grinding for the p/s pulley and flipping of the belt tensioner bolt aren’t necessary since the newer 3.5 covers created those issues and they’re not being used.
  • The line for the oil cooler has been moved from the thermostat housing to the font coolant tubes and the cooler has gotten larger. The larger cooler will work on both older 3.5 upper oil pans and 3.0s.

You still need to run spacers and drill the intake cams. If you’re wanting to run adapters, typical 3.5 swap adapters will not work. The spacers are for 3.5L swaps with 3.0 timing equipment. They can only be used with drilled intake cams or drilled primary and intake cam gears. These are not adapters.

Here’s where it gets a little interesting.

Researching this swap, the question came up of how the 3.0 timing equipment might alter the timing of the 3.5 cams. I found the exhaust lobe centers of cyls #1&2 on my old 1st gen 3.5 (03 max motor) with 3.0 timing and they were 122* BTDC for the rear bank and 119* for the front. This is about 10 crank degrees retarded from the stock VQ35’s cam numbers (112 BTDC exhaust lobe center line). I used a degree wheel on the crank pulley, the 3.0 outer timing cover arrow as a reference, and a dial indicator riding the lifter bucket to find max lift. IMO, this method is good +/-3 crank degrees but either way the exhaust cams are retarded.

Now for the intakes. The dowel pins actually point up when cyl #1 is TDC’d like they do on a VQ30. But, that dowel pin would make the intake timing 28 crank degrees retarded from where a stock 3.0 would be.

07 Alti intake cam in a jig made from a 3.0 intake cam

Using a dial indicator with snake extension as a pointer to measure how many degrees the cam timing would be off if I used the 07 Alti VQ35 factory dowel pin.

Set as VQ30 timing

Clocked to the factory dowel pin hole

So, 14 cam degrees or 28 crank degrees off.

What I’m doing is drilling through the VQ30 primary/secondary timing gears and cam for the new (longer like other hybrid swaps) dowel pin 180* opposite of the factory gear timing slots so that I’m not just egging out the 07 Alti dowel pin hole. The stock 07 Alti intake cam bolts need to be reused for the intakes too. The VQ30s are too long.

The above cam timing would net:

  • Intake__Duration: 240º
    Exhaust_Duration: 240º
  • Intake_Opens: 7º BTDC
    Intake_Closes: 53º ABDC
  • Exhaust_Opens: 47º BBDC
    Exhaust_Closes: 3º ATDC
  • Overlap: 10º

Strange the exhaust timing matches up pretty close with a 3.5 Pathfinder. Either way it should be good overall.

I’m going to be using an 09 Maxima upper intake and (converted) throttle body with this swap since both are larger. The p/ns for the lower intake on both cars are the same number. The 07 Alti’s could obviously used if the TB is converted too. Before the engine went back I made sure the 09 Max upper intake bolted up without issue. No problems.

Altima Manifold

Maxima Manifold

Stripped down:

The 07 Alti comes with dual knock sensors like the 09 Max.I unbolted both and put the VQ30DE knock sensor on rear bank.

The Altima has a quick connect fuel fitting like the 09 max. My car already has AN lines from the filter. So, I need to get that quick connect to -6AN. I ordered 3/8″ and 5/16″ quick connect adapters by Earl’s since I wasn’t sure what size the rail was. The 3/8″ came but the 5/16″ is on back order. 5/16″ is the correct size and the p/n is 799-644120.

I got the 5/16″ to AN fitting on but because of the collar before the quick connect on the rail, the part that screws into the fitting to secure it needed to be grinded down. I have to get the car running asap. So, I did the following with what I had:

The cyl 5/6 exhaust manifold studs swapped:

Drilled cams installed, Alti LIM and fuel rail installed with 380cc injectors, front of block prepped, and 07 Alti secondary tensioners primed. (Yes, the 07 Alti tensioners are used)

Shots of how the HR head went back to the VQ30 cam cap bolt pattern. So, no drilling of the inner timing cover is needed.

In my first post I mentioned how the stock 07 Alti intake cam dowel pin hole is close but not ideal timing. Instead of drilling near that hole and egging it out, I opted to drill roughly 180 from that hole through the primary and secondary cam gears and through the cam. This puts the dowel slots on the gears pointing in the right direction as if it were drilled like a typical 3.5 swap.

 

Removing the 3.0 windage tray since the 3.5 already one bolted to the caps/girdle.

Bolting the rest of the 4th gen crap back on

Close ups of the Alti oil cooler hose routing. The rear line needs to be bent slightly, the cooler sandwich is clocked counter clockwise from it’s stock orientation, the hardline that came with the engine has been bent slightly, 2 tabs removed, one re-drilled to bolt to the front of the upper oil pan with the a/c bracket, and a longer hose used from the sandwich to the hardline. A long rubber hose could replace the front hardline setup too. And the p/s belt clears no problem.

It’s ALIVE. This is as clean as this will ever be.. (notice the different rear main seal too)

Dirty but all together.

A couple other misc things with the swap:

  • The TB gasket mesh needs to be cut out if you’re pulling the TB cable from the top rear.
  • The bottom rad hose needs to be trimmed since the thermostat housing is a 90*.

I’ve yet to really push it but it idles good, runs smooth, and pulls good mid throttle. Somewhere in the near future I’m going to gut the upper and remove the VIAS valves. So, now we know how this is possible, not just that it is.

my4dsc: 145

Member Credit: Whore-Jay

The SSIM (Secret Sauce Intake Manifold) was created years ago by member SR20DEN. This involves cutting the shelf out of the main chamber of the upper intake manifold and removing the VIAS assembly. This will still lose a little low end power, but the gains in the top end are very noticeable. It’s definitely a modification that is worthwhile.

Below are the results of 3 different Intake Manifold setups. All runs done on the same dyno with the same AFR (tuned for 13) and around the same temp. Stock (runfile11), SSIM (runfile10), VIAS delete (runfile7). Your constructive input is welcome but I am not here to argue about any of my results, this is what I did and that is what I got end of story so please no flaming. Enjoy!!!

Stock IM with functional VIAS.

Stock IM with VIAS deleted, NWP Block plate used.

SSIM with VIAS deleted, NWP Block plate used.

All three HP overlay.

All three TQ overlay.

All data combined.

My thoughts on the SSIM vs Stock.

  • First of all I am suprised that the SSIM did so poorly when compared to both the Stock setup and the VIAS delete.
  • It posted losses across the board, it only begun to edge out the stock setup after 5600rpm with a gain of 12hp
  • at 6300rpm.
  • Against the VIAS delete setup it made the same peak power but posted some gains after 6100rpm, average of 5hp with a peak of 7hp at 6500.
  • It was totally killed by the Stock setup from 2500rpm until 3800rpm, max of 24tq at 3400rpm. Never made any gains in usable torque.
  • Killed by the Stock setup for HP as well, losses from 2500rpm until 3900rpm, an average of 10hp with a peak of 16hp at 3500rpm lost to the stock setup.
  • From 3900 until 5600 they were about the same.

My thoughts on the VIAS delete vs Stock.

  • 3800rpm seems to be the magic number in this comparison. Below 3800 the Stock setup is better but after that its all gains with the NWP Blockplate and the VIAS delete!!!
  • From 3800 all the way to redline with the VIAS delete I showed an average 8hp gain across the board with a peak of 10.5hp at 6000.
  • From 2700 until 3800 the Stock setup was good for an average of 8hp over the VIAS delete with a peak of 9hp at 3400.
  • From 3800 until redline the VIAS delete made an average of 8tq more with a peak of 10.5tq at 4200.
  • From 2800 until 3800 the Stock setup was good for an average of 10tq more with a peak of 16tq more at 3400.

The verdict….. Its really just up to what you want to drive with, I am choosing the NWP Block plate with an unmodifed IM for now. 

  • I like the power from 3800rpm until redline rather than power below 3800rpm, I feel the losses down that low are worth the gains I see up high. When I stomp on the gas I dont stay below 3800 for very long, this makes the VIAS delete a beneficial mod IMHO.
  • The gains from the SSIM is irrelevant since it only starts to make HP after 6100rpm and totally destroyed all low end torque. Since I run out of engine the SSIM may be a viable option with a TS ECU and a higher redline, timing etc, etc.

*Mods*

  • Unorthodox racing UDP
  • SSAC headers (no cat)
  • 2.5″ Catback
  • Magnaflow 27X6″ resonator
  • Stillen Exhaust
  • Frankencar WAI
  • Tuned APEXI NEO

my4dsc: 198

This is a gallery of Secret Sauce Intake Manifold (SSIM) Setups. The SSIM (Secret Sauce Intake Manifold) was created years ago by member SR20DEN. This involves cutting the shelf out of the main chamber of the upper intake manifold and removing the VIAS assembly. This will still lose a little low end power, but the gains in the top end are very noticeable. It’s definitely a modification that is worthwhile.

 

my4dsc: 152

Member Credit: NISformance & Anthony Posadas

This time we launched at a higher rpm , hoping the stock clutch held on long enough to get a good pass in! Best pass of 12.79 at 110 MPG! The car dyno’d at 294 WHP 265 TQ.

A very simple setup can perform well on the track, it just takes the right combination of mods , tune, tires, and driver.

Full Mod List / Specs:

  • 2002 Nissan Maxima
  • 2008 Altima VQ35DE Engine Swap
  • NISformance High Power Long 3.5″ intake
  • 2010 Maxima Intake Manifold w/ VIAS
  • ARP Rod Bolts
  • High Volume Oil Pump
  • eBay Headers
  • 3″ Straight Pipe Exhaust
  • 4.1 FD w/ HLSD
  • NISformance Reflash Dyno Tune
  • 18″ Altima SE-R Wheels w/ Nitto NT01 Tires
  • Seats & Spare Tire Removed for Track

 

my4dsc: 50

NISFormance is officially offering a service to disable NATS security for race cars or when swapping 5.5 ECU into other Maxima’s. This will allow for making 95-01 full 3.5 swaps. With this service there are no codes (i.e. P1610, P16xx).

You can either mail the ECU to NISformance or bring the car to them for full dyno tune.

Contact NISformance:

FB: https://www.facebook.com/NISformance/
Contact: darren@nisformance.com

my4dsc: 111

Member Credit: Fezzik

Hey guys. I was really interested in the Ghetto Air Box (GAB) but did not want to destroy the filter holder (>65 dollar value according to Dave B) So I thought up a way to create the same thing without cutting part of the holder off. This may have been thought up before but I didn’t know about it.

First you will need the following:

The basic tools, a hanger (I used a thick gauge one), black sharpie, and of course your filter (Mine is the K&N one):

Image

Unwind the hanger as shown below:

Image

Straighten up the hanger as best as you can:

Image

Now you want to center the hanger at the bottom of the filter and mark on the hanger where the side of the filter is like seen in this picture below:

Image

Now bend the hanger in a 90 degree angle like so:

Image

Do the same thing for the other side (Make sure the hanger is fairly flat against the filter):

Now mark the top part of the hanger where the top part of the filter is and bend those in at 90 degree angles too:

Image

Now move in about 2-3 inches and bend the hanger away from the filter like seen in the picture. Then move out about 1-2 inches away from filter or about 0.5 inches more than the distance from your filter (where the hanger is at) to the edge of the opening that’s near the headlight (yeah this is a little confusing) See two pictures below for a better understanding.

Image

Stick the filter in and then mark the hanger hangs back out like seen:

Image

Image

After marking the hanger go and bend it so it goes around the lip of the opening of the air box like seen below:

The final product:

Image

and a close-up of it

Image

I haven’t cut the ends off yet. Another thing I am going to do is add electrical tape around the hanger just so it looks better and some extra around the area where the hanger is now hooked onto the air box opening. But I’d figure this will help those out there that are wanting to do this mod but not wanting to cut their filter holder or just have the really ugly duck tape holding it in.Butt feeling of this is that it feels like the car can breathe a lot better and seems to have better response even in low end.

Additional Photos:

my4dsc: 140

V1 – Block Off Plate

Price: $27.99

Applications

  • 2002 – 2003 Nissan Maxima
  • 2004 – 2008 Nissan Maxima
  • 2002 – 2006 Nissan Altima
  • 2003 – 2007 Nissan Murano
  • 2004 – 2008 Nissan Quest

 Sold As A kit

  • 3 – Properly Sized Stainless Steel Bolts
  • 3 – Stainless Steel Lock Washers
  • 1 – Control Solenoid Valve Vacuum Cap
  • Printed Detailed Installation Instructions with Photos

Made from 6061-T6 Aluminum

The CXJ bop plate replaces the air restrictive OEMV.I.A.S valve. By removing this valve and installing the CXJ bop plate you effectively turn your manifold into an open air system..

V2 – Block Off Plates

Price: 84.99

Applications

  • 2009 – 2015 Nissan Maxima
  • 2007 – 2015 Nissan Altima
  • 2008 – 2015 Nissan Altima Coupe

Sold As A Kit

  • 8 – Properly Sized Black Torx 40 Screws
  • 2 – Control Solenoid Valve Vacuum Caps
  • Printed Detailed Installation Instructions with Photos

Made from 1/4 Phenolic grade material

These plates replace the air restrictive oem V.I.A.S valves. By removing these and installing the CXJ bop plates you effectively turn your manifold into an open air system.

Testing has shown an increase of 7 horsepower increase and 4.3 added ft/lbs of added torque

Video installation part 1 ( 2009 -2015 maxima shown )

Video installation part 2

V3 Block Plates

Price: 84.99
 

Applications

  • 2016+ Nissan Maxima
  • 2016+ Nissan Altima
 Sold As A Kit
  • 8 – Properly Sized Black Torx 40 Screws
  • 2 – Control Solenoid Valve Vacuum Caps
  • Printed Detailed Installation Instructions with Photos
  • Made from 1/4 Phenolic grade material

These plates replace the air restrictive oem V.I.A.S valves. By removing these and installing the CXJ bop plates you effectively turn your manifold into an open air system. The BOP Plate are estimate at an increase of 7 horsepower increase and 4.3 added ft/lbs of added torque

 

 

my4dsc: 175

V1 -Thermal Intake Manifold Spacers (3.5L DOHC V6VQ35DE)

Price: 164.99

Applications

  • 2002 – 2003 Nissan Maxima
  • 2004 – 2008 Nissan Maxima
  • 2002 – 2006 Nissan Altima
  • 2003 – 2007 Nissan Murano
  • 2004 – 2008 Nissan Quest

CXJ PERFORMANCE is proud to present phenolic its 3pc thermal intake spacers for the nissan. These spacers are made from 3/8 thick high grade phenolic. The spacers will isolate the throttle body , elbow and the manifold from the block.

With the isolated areas spaced off this way the manifold will run about 33 degrees cooler thus creating colder , denser , heavier air into the chamber

Dyno testing has shown an 12 horse power increase and 15 increase of torque.

Sold as a complete kit which includes:

  • 2 – Extended Stainless Steel Manifold Studs
  • 3 – Stainless Steel Manifold Bolts
  • 7 – 8mm Stainless Steel Lock Washers
  • 4 – Stainless Steel Allen Head Throttle Body Bolts
  • 4 – 6mm  Stainless Steel Lock Washers
  • Printed Detailed Installation Instructions with Photos

Please see our testing videos using a 2005 Maxima with these spacers. All CXJ Performance products are dyno tested. NO hypes or selling gimmicks

V2 -Thermal Intake Manifold Spacers (3.5L DOHC V6 VQ35DE)

Price: 179.98

Applications

  • 2009 – 2015 Nissan Maxima
  • 2007 – 2015 Nissan Altima
  • 2008 – 2015 Nissan Altima Coupe

CXJ PERFORMANCE is proud to present phenolic its 2pc thermal intake spacers. These spacers are made from 3/8 thick high grade phenolic. The spacers will isolate the throttle body from the manifold and also the manifold from the block.

With the isolated areas spaced off this way the manifold will run about 23 degrees cooler thus creating colder , denser , heavier air into the chamber

Dyno testing has shown an 10 horse power increase and 12 increase of torque.

Sold as a complete kit which includes

  • 2 – Extended High Strength Manifold Studs
  • 4 – Stainless Steel Manifold Bolts
  • 8 – Stainless Steel Lock Washers
  • 4 – Stainless Steel Allen Head Throttle Body Bolts
  •  Printed Detailed Installation Instructions with Photos

 

V3 Thermal Intake Manifold Spacers

Price: 179.99

Applications

  • 2016+ Nissan Maxima 3.5L DOHC V6 VQ35DE
  • 2016+ Nissan Altima 3.5L DOHC V6 VQ35DE

CXJ PERFORMANCE is proud to present phenolic its 2pc thermal intake spacers. These spacers are made from 3/8 thick high grade phenolic. The spacers will isolate the throttle body from the manifold and also the manifold from the block. With the isolated areas spaced off this way the manifold will run about 23 degrees cooler thus creating colder , denser , heavier air into the chamber.

The intake spacers are estimated at an 10 horse power increase and 12 increase of torque.

Sold as a complete kit which includes:

  • 2 – Extended High Strength Manifold Studs
  • 4 – Stainless Steel Manifold Bolts
  • 8 – Stainless Steel Lock Washers
  • 4 – Stainless Steel Allen Head Throttle Body Bolts
  • Printed Detailed Installation Instructions with Photos

FT-1 -Thermal Intake Manifold Spacer (4.0L  DOHC V6 VQ40DE)

Price: 149.98

Applications

  • 2005 – 2012 Nissan Frontier
  • 2005 – 2012 Nissan Pathfinder
  • 2005 – 2012 Nissan Xterra
  • 2008 – 2012 Suzuki Equator

PLEASE NOTE THAT THE BLACK SPACER IS SHOWN FOR FITMENT PURPOSES. YOU WILL RECIEVE THE BEIGE SPACER

CXJ PERFORMANCE is proud to present phenolic its VQ40 thermal intake spacer. The spacer is made from 1/2 thickness high grade phenolic. The spacer will isolate the manifold from the block.

With the isolated area spaced off this way the manifold will run cooler thus creating colder , denser , heavier air into the chambers

Dyno testing has shown an increase of 7 horsepower with 8 increase in torque across the lower and mid rpm ranges while reducing intake manifold temperatures by 18-21 degrees.

Sold as a complete kit which includes

  • 2 – Extended High Strength Manifold Studs
  • 5 – Stainless Steel Manifold Bolts
  • 5 – Stainless Steel Lock Washers
  • 1 – High Temp Gasket
  •  Printed Detailed Installation Instructions with Photos

 

my4dsc: 219

Member Credit: Rashun Laboy / David Colaire

Thanks to Rashun and David for finding a source that rebuilds OEM Axles (for ALL Nissan Maxima’s). The shop uses OEM parts for rebuild. Basically just bring them your Axles and they will rebuild it. It’s about a 2-3 hour / same-day turnaround. You can go have lunch and hang around for a bit. They also rebuild many other types of OEM parts such as calipers, alternators and starters.

As of Feb 2018, the shop is still offering this service. The cost of rebuild is $50.00 per Axle. You have to physically bring them the Axles (as they do not ship or sell OEM Axles).

Shop Address:
Quality Remanufacturing, LLC 
565 E 37th St, Paterson, NJ 07513
(973) 523-8800

my4dsc: 212

Member Credit: Unklejoe / EddyMaxx

Every 99-03 Maxima uses the same PIN for the NATS. The pin is “5523“. This is the default “master” PIN. 

This means that you can use a BlaZt cable to re-initialize the NATS on any Maxima of those years. This is particularly useful for those who have to replace their ECU and don’t feel like going to the dealership and dropping $100 to get the ECU programmed to their key/immo (or those who simply want to add more keys to their car).

More Info on Nissan Datascan & ODB2 Cable: https://www.my4dsc.com/nissan-datascan-ii-aka-the-affordable-nissan-consult/

Normally, the PIN is provided to you when you buy the car but most people lose it. Well, now you can finally add your own keys to the car and/or re-program a used ECU’s to the car.

For those who don’t know the PIN, the PIN can be decoded using a software called “Nissan SuperCode”. The software requires the serial number from the BCM that the ECU came from. It will then provide the PIN. The only problem is that when you buy an ECU from a junkyard, they usually don’t provide/know the BCM serial number from the car that the ECU came from. Normally, you’d have to go to the dealer so they can decode it, but now that I discovered this “master” PIN, you can do it yourself!

The following cars all use the same “5523” default PIN:

  • Nissan Altima 2001-2004
  • Nissan Maxima 1999-2003
  • Nissan Pathfinder 2001-2004
  • Nissan Sentra 2000-2005
  • Nissan 350Z < 2002
  • Nissan X-Terra 2003-2004
  • Infinity QX4 2001-2004
  • Infinity QX45 2002
  • Infinity Q45 2001-2005
  • Infinity G20 2000-2002
  • Infinity I30 / I35 2001-2005

Video Walkthrough

my4dsc: 199