Category

my5thgen 00-03

Category

Member Credit: Orgullo

This is the battery relocation for the 2002/2003 Nissan Maxima. However, I’m sure it will work for the other gens too since it’s basically the same. I did this on my 5.5 and my boys 5.5 gen Max.

This set up is for people that already have a aftermarket intake. If you are running the Injen intake, like I was, then you can use it. Using your Injen intake you will need to get another midpipe ( berk, frankencar etc…) and another coupling.

Tools: 

Sharpie.
Dremel.
Drill with 17/64 drill bit.
10mm Socket / Wrench.
Screw Driver / Flate head, Phillips head.
Pliers
(1) 17/64th sized bolt.

How To: Relocating your batter and fuse box.

1) First of all turn your wheel all the way to the right.

2) Remove your Intake and next you need to remove your battery.

3) Remove the plastic cover, this will expose the (3) screws holding down
the battery tray. Take those out.

4) After removing the screws you will need to remove the fuse box. It is
held in place by two screws.

5) Looking at the tray you will see that the Positive terminal cable is
attached. Just pinch the zip tie and push it out. You should be able to
pull the tray out.

6) When you pull the tray out you’ll see that it has mounting points for the
fuse box, the positive terminal mounts and where the tray mounted to
the car. ALL of these need to be cut off. Use your dremel to accomplish
this. Now is the time for this kid to get his sanding and painting skills on.

7) Looking at where the tray was you’ll see a raised piece. This needs to
get cut off to make the surface flat. Just use the dremel to cut it off. If
you look close you’ll see small circle’s. This is the tack weld, lightly cut
over that circle and wedge your screw driver and pry it up. Take your
pliers and start turning it in a circle motion and it will pop right off.

8) Place your battery tray to sit parallel on the mounting point. You will use on of the existing holes to mount this.

9) Once you have it aligned slightly pick up the tray and you’ll see where the other screw will go. Use your sharpie to mark the spot in relation to the tray on the tray. Once this is marked take your tray off and drill out the spot where you just marked. Use the 17/64th drill bit to drill out the spot.
After you drill it out lay it in place to make sure it lines up perfectly. If it does then straight, if not check your alignment and drill it out. This is enough to secure the weight of the battery with NO problems. Do not secure the battery tray down just yet.

Next is aligning the fuse box.

10) Parallel the fuse box and push it snuggly against the battery tray. You will see where the original mounting point on the fuse box was. You are going to use it again. Take your sharpie, mark the spot and move it to the side. Take your drill and 17/64th drill bit and drill out the hole. Don’t worry there is nothing there but space. Put the fuse box in place and use your 17/64th bolt to secure it down.

This is what it should look like when you are done.

Now turn your INJEN WAI into a CAI. You will need a new midpipe and coupler to make this happen.

You have all this space to work with. Up underneath is open space. You will take your dremel and cut out a triangle shape, smiley face, whatever you like. J/K cut out a circle large enough for your piping to go through.

1) DO NOT go beyond this red line, you will be cutting into the frame. I found it easier to use a drill and drill holes, then take the dremel and cut the lines. Take your pliers and catch a corner and start turning in a circle. It will role up and come out easier. You can take your dremel and clean up the edges when you have finished.

2) Assemble your intake set up. Coupling, new midpipe, coupling, MAF, coupling, Long elbow of the Injen intake, coupling. You will assemble the Injen midpipe and filter inside the fender.

3) The Injen midpipe has a line for the vacuum. You will need to block this. I used some gasket making material. Also, on the long piping of the Injen there is the mounting point that you will need to cut off. You don’t have to but it looks better.

4) Place your intake set up in place.

5) After extending the piping into the fender you will need to pull the fender plastic towards you. You will see the piping coming down. You will then connect the Injen midpipe and filter to the piping coming in. This completes your intake set up.

note: Make sure all your couplers have been tightened down. Also, make sure you hook the vacuum line back up. 

6) Everything is finished. Put your battery tray back on, secure it in place.

7) Put your fuse box in place and bolt it down.

8) Connect your battery negative and positive and your set.

It should look like this!!!

Running it short ram.

 

my4dsc: 93

Member Credit: Matt Riney

The latest and completed Kern 7055_35 is now available for flashing!

  • Kernel 7055_35 is used by the early ecus 2002 & 2003 Maxima (and 2004 in most cases).
  • Kernel 7058 is used for 05+ Maxima
  • It’s all based on the ROM size. If the ROM size is 512K then  you should use the 7055_35 kernel. If the ROM size is 1024K then you use the 7058 kernel.

In order to flash, you will need to purchase a OBD2 KKL VAG-COM 409.1 USB Cable. You can order from eBay.

Kernel Features

The basic kernel is an implementation of an ISO14230-compliant protocol with extensions. It implements the following requests:

  • Fast ROM dump (tested up to 5.4 kB/s; typical speed is ~100 B/s without a kernel)
  • Read ROM/RAM/external EEPROM
  • Write to RAM
  • Erase flash ROM block
  • Write flash ROM block

Below is quick walk through on installing and running rom raider, along with dumping a Nissan Sh7055 ECU with the Nisprog/Npkern software.

 

Links to software:

Rom Raider:
http://www.romraider.com/RomRaider/Do…

Java:
https://java.com/en/download/

Nisprog:
http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewto…

Npkern (Latest Version npk_7055_35.bin):
https://github.com/fenugrec/npkern/tr…

Definitions:
https://github.com/murphyslaw05/Nissa…

Links to Nissan Roms:
http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewto…

How Does the Reflash Process Work?

The process is carried out entirely over the OBD-II “K Line” serial communications link through an undocumented set of manufacturer-defined extensions to the standard ISO14230 protocol. Recently, the necessary commands have been reverse-engineered revealing the required steps:

  1. Establish connection to the ECU.
  2. Send the first stage data payload: this is the “kernel”, a simple program that will receive commands and data for the reflash.
  3. Make the ECU run the kernel. From this point on, the kernel runs from RAM and effectively takes control of the whole ECU.
  4. Send the reflash commands and new firmware data to the kernel.
  5. Reset the ECU: the new firmware will now be executed, and the kernel will be completely removed.

Requirements

The basic reflashing kernel will support gasoline ECUs with:

  • SH7055 or SH7058, 0.18um microcontrollers (the most common types)
  • K line wired to the OBD-II connector pin 7

Unfortunately CAN-only ECUs are not currently supported.

Host computer:

  • OS: Linux and Windows are known to work; Nisprog is based on freediag source code which is cross-platform and should run on most Linux/UNIX flavors.
  • Connectivity: a simple USB-OBD adapter is required. These are the “Generic dumb serial adaptors” described in the freediag docs.

Note : J2534 devices are not currently supported by freediag.

Limitations

There are several important points to be aware of when using Nisprog:

  • The ECU is a safety-critical system in a car. Reflashing an ECU can void warranties, reduce the vehicle’s reliability, and cause a whole variety of undesirable consequences. Use of this project and any associated tools (freediag, Nisprog, etc) is of course entirely at the user’s risk. Standard disclaimers apply.
  • Reflashing an ECU may be illegal in some areas. Responsibility in this matter lies again with the user.
  • Diesel ECUs are not supported, they are entirely different.
  • Tuning and modifying ROMs are complex skills that can only be acquired through significant investments of time and effort!

my4dsc: 1337

Member Credit: 95naSTA

The point of this thread is to give people a heads up on what they’ll have to do to use the 07 Altima motor with the 3.0 timing. If you have the time/skill/money a full 3.5 swap will always out perform a hybrid setup. This is just for people that are lacking any of those and want something better than a typical hybrid swap.

Most importantly, this is for people who know how to read stickys. I will not be telling you how to do a hybrid swap. That info is already out there.

Findings:

  • The upper/lower oil pans, oil pick up tube, and dip stick need to be swapped to a VQ30 or manual trans VQ35 5th/6th gen since the exhaust tunnel isn’t as high and will interfere with the front bank’s exhaust.
  • Cylinders 5/6 need the exhaust manifold studs swapped diagonally to work with the older gen VQ35’s.
  • The older crank pulley needs to be swapped on.
  • There are two knock sensors, one for each bank. I’ll be bolting up a 4th gen sensor to the rear bank.
  • The grinding for the p/s pulley and flipping of the belt tensioner bolt aren’t necessary since the newer 3.5 covers created those issues and they’re not being used.
  • The line for the oil cooler has been moved from the thermostat housing to the font coolant tubes and the cooler has gotten larger. The larger cooler will work on both older 3.5 upper oil pans and 3.0s.

You still need to run spacers and drill the intake cams. If you’re wanting to run adapters, typical 3.5 swap adapters will not work. The spacers are for 3.5L swaps with 3.0 timing equipment. They can only be used with drilled intake cams or drilled primary and intake cam gears. These are not adapters.

Here’s where it gets a little interesting.

Researching this swap, the question came up of how the 3.0 timing equipment might alter the timing of the 3.5 cams. I found the exhaust lobe centers of cyls #1&2 on my old 1st gen 3.5 (03 max motor) with 3.0 timing and they were 122* BTDC for the rear bank and 119* for the front. This is about 10 crank degrees retarded from the stock VQ35’s cam numbers (112 BTDC exhaust lobe center line). I used a degree wheel on the crank pulley, the 3.0 outer timing cover arrow as a reference, and a dial indicator riding the lifter bucket to find max lift. IMO, this method is good +/-3 crank degrees but either way the exhaust cams are retarded.

Now for the intakes. The dowel pins actually point up when cyl #1 is TDC’d like they do on a VQ30. But, that dowel pin would make the intake timing 28 crank degrees retarded from where a stock 3.0 would be.

07 Alti intake cam in a jig made from a 3.0 intake cam

Using a dial indicator with snake extension as a pointer to measure how many degrees the cam timing would be off if I used the 07 Alti VQ35 factory dowel pin.

Set as VQ30 timing

Clocked to the factory dowel pin hole

So, 14 cam degrees or 28 crank degrees off.

What I’m doing is drilling through the VQ30 primary/secondary timing gears and cam for the new (longer like other hybrid swaps) dowel pin 180* opposite of the factory gear timing slots so that I’m not just egging out the 07 Alti dowel pin hole. The stock 07 Alti intake cam bolts need to be reused for the intakes too. The VQ30s are too long.

The above cam timing would net:

  • Intake__Duration: 240º
    Exhaust_Duration: 240º
  • Intake_Opens: 7º BTDC
    Intake_Closes: 53º ABDC
  • Exhaust_Opens: 47º BBDC
    Exhaust_Closes: 3º ATDC
  • Overlap: 10º

Strange the exhaust timing matches up pretty close with a 3.5 Pathfinder. Either way it should be good overall.

I’m going to be using an 09 Maxima upper intake and (converted) throttle body with this swap since both are larger. The p/ns for the lower intake on both cars are the same number. The 07 Alti’s could obviously used if the TB is converted too. Before the engine went back I made sure the 09 Max upper intake bolted up without issue. No problems.

Altima Manifold

Maxima Manifold

Stripped down:

The 07 Alti comes with dual knock sensors like the 09 Max.I unbolted both and put the VQ30DE knock sensor on rear bank.

The Altima has a quick connect fuel fitting like the 09 max. My car already has AN lines from the filter. So, I need to get that quick connect to -6AN. I ordered 3/8″ and 5/16″ quick connect adapters by Earl’s since I wasn’t sure what size the rail was. The 3/8″ came but the 5/16″ is on back order. 5/16″ is the correct size and the p/n is 799-644120.

I got the 5/16″ to AN fitting on but because of the collar before the quick connect on the rail, the part that screws into the fitting to secure it needed to be grinded down. I have to get the car running asap. So, I did the following with what I had:

The cyl 5/6 exhaust manifold studs swapped:

Drilled cams installed, Alti LIM and fuel rail installed with 380cc injectors, front of block prepped, and 07 Alti secondary tensioners primed. (Yes, the 07 Alti tensioners are used)

Shots of how the HR head went back to the VQ30 cam cap bolt pattern. So, no drilling of the inner timing cover is needed.

In my first post I mentioned how the stock 07 Alti intake cam dowel pin hole is close but not ideal timing. Instead of drilling near that hole and egging it out, I opted to drill roughly 180 from that hole through the primary and secondary cam gears and through the cam. This puts the dowel slots on the gears pointing in the right direction as if it were drilled like a typical 3.5 swap.

 

Removing the 3.0 windage tray since the 3.5 already one bolted to the caps/girdle.

Bolting the rest of the 4th gen crap back on

Close ups of the Alti oil cooler hose routing. The rear line needs to be bent slightly, the cooler sandwich is clocked counter clockwise from it’s stock orientation, the hardline that came with the engine has been bent slightly, 2 tabs removed, one re-drilled to bolt to the front of the upper oil pan with the a/c bracket, and a longer hose used from the sandwich to the hardline. A long rubber hose could replace the front hardline setup too. And the p/s belt clears no problem.

It’s ALIVE. This is as clean as this will ever be.. (notice the different rear main seal too)

Dirty but all together.

A couple other misc things with the swap:

  • The TB gasket mesh needs to be cut out if you’re pulling the TB cable from the top rear.
  • The bottom rad hose needs to be trimmed since the thermostat housing is a 90*.

I’ve yet to really push it but it idles good, runs smooth, and pulls good mid throttle. Somewhere in the near future I’m going to gut the upper and remove the VIAS valves. So, now we know how this is possible, not just that it is.

my4dsc: 249

Member Credit: Whore-Jay

The SSIM (Secret Sauce Intake Manifold) was created years ago by member SR20DEN. This involves cutting the shelf out of the main chamber of the upper intake manifold and removing the VIAS assembly. This will still lose a little low end power, but the gains in the top end are very noticeable. It’s definitely a modification that is worthwhile.

Below are the results of 3 different Intake Manifold setups. All runs done on the same dyno with the same AFR (tuned for 13) and around the same temp. Stock (runfile11), SSIM (runfile10), VIAS delete (runfile7). Your constructive input is welcome but I am not here to argue about any of my results, this is what I did and that is what I got end of story so please no flaming. Enjoy!!!

Stock IM with functional VIAS.

Stock IM with VIAS deleted, NWP Block plate used.

SSIM with VIAS deleted, NWP Block plate used.

All three HP overlay.

All three TQ overlay.

All data combined.

My thoughts on the SSIM vs Stock.

  • First of all I am suprised that the SSIM did so poorly when compared to both the Stock setup and the VIAS delete.
  • It posted losses across the board, it only begun to edge out the stock setup after 5600rpm with a gain of 12hp
  • at 6300rpm.
  • Against the VIAS delete setup it made the same peak power but posted some gains after 6100rpm, average of 5hp with a peak of 7hp at 6500.
  • It was totally killed by the Stock setup from 2500rpm until 3800rpm, max of 24tq at 3400rpm. Never made any gains in usable torque.
  • Killed by the Stock setup for HP as well, losses from 2500rpm until 3900rpm, an average of 10hp with a peak of 16hp at 3500rpm lost to the stock setup.
  • From 3900 until 5600 they were about the same.

My thoughts on the VIAS delete vs Stock.

  • 3800rpm seems to be the magic number in this comparison. Below 3800 the Stock setup is better but after that its all gains with the NWP Blockplate and the VIAS delete!!!
  • From 3800 all the way to redline with the VIAS delete I showed an average 8hp gain across the board with a peak of 10.5hp at 6000.
  • From 2700 until 3800 the Stock setup was good for an average of 8hp over the VIAS delete with a peak of 9hp at 3400.
  • From 3800 until redline the VIAS delete made an average of 8tq more with a peak of 10.5tq at 4200.
  • From 2800 until 3800 the Stock setup was good for an average of 10tq more with a peak of 16tq more at 3400.

The verdict….. Its really just up to what you want to drive with, I am choosing the NWP Block plate with an unmodifed IM for now. 

  • I like the power from 3800rpm until redline rather than power below 3800rpm, I feel the losses down that low are worth the gains I see up high. When I stomp on the gas I dont stay below 3800 for very long, this makes the VIAS delete a beneficial mod IMHO.
  • The gains from the SSIM is irrelevant since it only starts to make HP after 6100rpm and totally destroyed all low end torque. Since I run out of engine the SSIM may be a viable option with a TS ECU and a higher redline, timing etc, etc.

*Mods*

  • Unorthodox racing UDP
  • SSAC headers (no cat)
  • 2.5″ Catback
  • Magnaflow 27X6″ resonator
  • Stillen Exhaust
  • Frankencar WAI
  • Tuned APEXI NEO

my4dsc: 231

This is a gallery of Secret Sauce Intake Manifold (SSIM) Setups. The SSIM (Secret Sauce Intake Manifold) was created years ago by member SR20DEN. This involves cutting the shelf out of the main chamber of the upper intake manifold and removing the VIAS assembly. This will still lose a little low end power, but the gains in the top end are very noticeable. It’s definitely a modification that is worthwhile.

 

my4dsc: 205

Member Credit: NISformance & Anthony Posadas

This time we launched at a higher rpm , hoping the stock clutch held on long enough to get a good pass in! Best pass of 12.79 at 110 MPG! The car dyno’d at 294 WHP 265 TQ.

A very simple setup can perform well on the track, it just takes the right combination of mods , tune, tires, and driver.

Full Mod List / Specs:

  • 2002 Nissan Maxima
  • 2008 Altima VQ35DE Engine Swap
  • NISformance High Power Long 3.5″ intake
  • 2010 Maxima Intake Manifold w/ VIAS
  • ARP Rod Bolts
  • High Volume Oil Pump
  • eBay Headers
  • 3″ Straight Pipe Exhaust
  • 4.1 FD w/ HLSD
  • NISformance Reflash Dyno Tune
  • 18″ Altima SE-R Wheels w/ Nitto NT01 Tires
  • Seats & Spare Tire Removed for Track

 

my4dsc: 79

NISFormance is officially offering a service to disable NATS security for race cars or when swapping 5.5 ECU into other Maxima’s. This will allow for making 95-01 full 3.5 swaps. With this service there are no codes (i.e. P1610, P16xx).

You can either mail the ECU to NISformance or bring the car to them for full dyno tune.

Contact NISformance:

FB: https://www.facebook.com/NISformance/
Contact: darren@nisformance.com

my4dsc: 143

Member Credit: Fezzik

Hey guys. I was really interested in the Ghetto Air Box (GAB) but did not want to destroy the filter holder (>65 dollar value according to Dave B) So I thought up a way to create the same thing without cutting part of the holder off. This may have been thought up before but I didn’t know about it.

First you will need the following:

The basic tools, a hanger (I used a thick gauge one), black sharpie, and of course your filter (Mine is the K&N one):

Image

Unwind the hanger as shown below:

Image

Straighten up the hanger as best as you can:

Image

Now you want to center the hanger at the bottom of the filter and mark on the hanger where the side of the filter is like seen in this picture below:

Image

Now bend the hanger in a 90 degree angle like so:

Image

Do the same thing for the other side (Make sure the hanger is fairly flat against the filter):

Now mark the top part of the hanger where the top part of the filter is and bend those in at 90 degree angles too:

Image

Now move in about 2-3 inches and bend the hanger away from the filter like seen in the picture. Then move out about 1-2 inches away from filter or about 0.5 inches more than the distance from your filter (where the hanger is at) to the edge of the opening that’s near the headlight (yeah this is a little confusing) See two pictures below for a better understanding.

Image

Stick the filter in and then mark the hanger hangs back out like seen:

Image

Image

After marking the hanger go and bend it so it goes around the lip of the opening of the air box like seen below:

The final product:

Image

and a close-up of it

Image

I haven’t cut the ends off yet. Another thing I am going to do is add electrical tape around the hanger just so it looks better and some extra around the area where the hanger is now hooked onto the air box opening. But I’d figure this will help those out there that are wanting to do this mod but not wanting to cut their filter holder or just have the really ugly duck tape holding it in.Butt feeling of this is that it feels like the car can breathe a lot better and seems to have better response even in low end.

Additional Photos:

my4dsc: 179

V1 – Block Off Plate

Price: $27.99

Applications

  • 2002 – 2003 Nissan Maxima
  • 2004 – 2008 Nissan Maxima
  • 2002 – 2006 Nissan Altima
  • 2003 – 2007 Nissan Murano
  • 2004 – 2008 Nissan Quest

 Sold As A kit

  • 3 – Properly Sized Stainless Steel Bolts
  • 3 – Stainless Steel Lock Washers
  • 1 – Control Solenoid Valve Vacuum Cap
  • Printed Detailed Installation Instructions with Photos

Made from 6061-T6 Aluminum

The CXJ bop plate replaces the air restrictive OEMV.I.A.S valve. By removing this valve and installing the CXJ bop plate you effectively turn your manifold into an open air system..

V2 – Block Off Plates

Price: 84.99

Applications

  • 2009 – 2015 Nissan Maxima
  • 2007 – 2015 Nissan Altima
  • 2008 – 2015 Nissan Altima Coupe

Sold As A Kit

  • 8 – Properly Sized Black Torx 40 Screws
  • 2 – Control Solenoid Valve Vacuum Caps
  • Printed Detailed Installation Instructions with Photos

Made from 1/4 Phenolic grade material

These plates replace the air restrictive oem V.I.A.S valves. By removing these and installing the CXJ bop plates you effectively turn your manifold into an open air system.

Testing has shown an increase of 7 horsepower increase and 4.3 added ft/lbs of added torque

Video installation part 1 ( 2009 -2015 maxima shown )

Video installation part 2

V3 Block Plates

Price: 84.99
 

Applications

  • 2016+ Nissan Maxima
  • 2016+ Nissan Altima
 Sold As A Kit
  • 8 – Properly Sized Black Torx 40 Screws
  • 2 – Control Solenoid Valve Vacuum Caps
  • Printed Detailed Installation Instructions with Photos
  • Made from 1/4 Phenolic grade material

These plates replace the air restrictive oem V.I.A.S valves. By removing these and installing the CXJ bop plates you effectively turn your manifold into an open air system. The BOP Plate are estimate at an increase of 7 horsepower increase and 4.3 added ft/lbs of added torque

 

 

my4dsc: 330