my5thgen 00-03


Below is the information seen in the Nissan factory service manual (FSM) for 2002-2008 VQ35DE Nissan Maxima’s. This information can be found in the “ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM SECTION – LU” section of the factory service manual.

Engine speed PSI
Idle speed 14 psi
2,000 rpm  43 psi


my4dsc: 24


Owner: Marcos Eduardo Chavez Santini aka Chavez

Year: 2002
Model: Maxima
Color:  Majestic Blue Pearl (BW9)
Transmission: Manual 6-Speed
Trim: SE

This feature is dedicated to Marcos Chavez who went viral and became instantly famous in the world of racing after beating a Porsche 911 Turbo in his 2002 Turbo Nissan Maxima. The currently video has over 4 Million views on YouTube! Chavez has definitely made a name for the Nissan Maxima community. The car made 562.25 WHP / 592.97 TQ @ 17PSI. 

He’s Juan hell of a driver that knows how to drive a Manuel Nissan Maxima. 

Marcos is a very humble and quiet racer from Chihuahua, Mexico. He has a passion for the track. He took racing to the next level with his Nissan Maxima and proved how fast and quick you can make them. Marcos has also beaten many other cars such as Shelby Mustang’s and late model Corvette’s. He is definitely not a one-hit wonder. He’s also an active member of the Facebook community and continues to race. We hope you enjoy this feature!

Dyno Numbers: 562.25 WHP / 592.97 TQ @ 17PSI

The Driver Behind The Machine…………….El Chavez!!!

The video that made Marcos famous (over 4 Million Views):

Quick Interview with Chavez

02′ Maxima Turbo vs 12′ Supercharged Camaro


02′ Nissan Máxima Turbo vs 16′ Chevy Corvette


Full Mod List / Specs:

  • Built/Sleeved VQ35DE Motor
  • Wiseco Forged Pistons (K605M96AP)
  • Eagle Connecting Rods
  • New Turbo: Precision 6262
  • Old Turbo: Holset HX35/40
  • Cometic Headgaskets
  • ARP Bolts & Studs
  • AEM Digital Gauges (Wideband, Controller & Oil Pressure)
  • SPEC Aluminum Light Weight Flywheel & Clutch (Rated for 521 Torque
  • AEM F/IC Piggyback
  • Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
  • Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR)
  • Chrysler Pink Injectors
  • Edelbrock Intercooler
  • Fully Custom Built Headers
  • Tial 38mm Wastegate
  • 3″ Piping
  • 2.5″ Exhaust Cutout
  • TEIN Coilovers
  • Runs on 12 PSI Mixing Gas with Toulene for Safety
  • 26 x 10.5 -16″ Mickey Thompson Drags Mounted on Nissan Altima Wheels (Track Setup)
  • Infiniti G35 Wheels (Daily Driving)
  • Sentra SE-R Spec-V Interior Front Seats
  • JL Audio Subwoofer
  • Sony Double-Din Headunit
  • Custom Grille & Nismo Emblems
  • Blue Painted Engine Cover

my4dsc: 1022


Owner: Jeremy Merriman

Social Media:

Year: 2003
Model: Maxima
Color: Gray Metallic (KV3 )
Transmission: Manual 6 Speed (AdminBuilt)
Trim: GLE

What motivated you to MOD your Maxima?

Bought the car, loved the style and just had a desire to go fast. Underdog car, no one expects to be drug by a Maxima that’s just rolling out. – Jeremy Merriman

Performance Numbers:

Street Tuned 100% on the old setup (stock head, head bolts, factory 366 turbo, 1000cc injectors, stock cams)

  • 531/481 10psi
  • 658/542 18psi
  • 723/635 21psi
  • xxx/xxx 23psi
  • xxx/xxx 26psi
    *all numbers corrected*










Full Mod List / Specs:

  • Stock block
  • 30 over bore size
  • 8.8:5 Weisco Pistons
  • Eagle Rods
  • L19 Headstuds
  • 625+ Rod Bolts
  • EPS Galley Kit
  • Over-sized crank
  • Ported Heads
  • JWT S1 Cams
  • BC Springs and Retainers
  • Cut Titanium Valves
  • Haltech Stand-alone ECU (all the features)
  • Magnus Flow Control Valve
  • HKS Headgasket
  • Custom Admin built 6speed trans with LSD
  • Admin axles with 30% larger carriers
  • Admin Fuel system -6 feed and -6 return
  • Aeromotive regulators
  • ID 1700x injectors
  • Walboro 450 high pressure in tank pump
  • Borg Warner 366 with compressor swap and wicked wheel upgrade
  • 4” stainless fender exit exhaust
  • 2.5” stainless hotside
  • 2.5” charge system
  • Custom built ClutchMaster Twin disk (1200hp)
  • Spoils mounted/cut shifter assembly
  • 17×9.5 squared wheel setup
  • NITTO NT05 275/40 Street
  • NITTO NT05R 305/35 Track
  • Built BC coils with spring swap
  • 25mm Traction Bars
  • Adjustable rear panhard with toe/camber correction
  • Solid core support
  • Solid subframe connectors
  • Solid engine/trans mounts
  • Nismo low open T-Stat
  • High Flow Oil pump
  • SSIM
  • Mishimoto Radiator 80/20 mix with cool gel
  • Bunch of LED conversions
  • LIP kits
  • Tucked and shaved engine bay
  • ABS deleted
  • Corbeau LG1 Suede Front seats
  • 5 point camlock harness
  • 4- point cage
  • Bunch of other things that don’t really matter in life or a lis


my4dsc: 427


These headers are no longer in production. They were available between 2004-2007 and are very rare to find these days. The information below is only for reference purposes.

Part#: NS3017

System Components: Includes 2 headers and one secondary with flex-pipe. System also includes 2 center copper gaskets,cat.gasket, all necessary hardware and O2 relocation wire kit.

Finish: Thermal ceramic coating
Color: Hi gloss Silver

Price: $549.00 US Dollars

Installation Instructions:

Installation time: Aprox. 4-5 hrs. to remove stock manifolds and aprox. 1-2 hrs. to install Hotshot header.

NOTE: All Hotshot Performance items are intended for off road use only. Hotshot Performance will not be responsible for any consequences resulting from your failure to comply with your federal, state, and local laws. Hotshot Performance recommends that trained professionals perform the installation of mechanical parts, as improperly installed products may lead to unsafe and unreliable conditions. Warranty will not be honored for damage or malfunctions due to improper installation, misuse, unauthorized repair or alterations.

1) This header was designed to be installed from underneath the car, requiring the removal of the stock manifold, down pipe, cross member and power steering bracket. You will need to jack the car high enough (or use a car lift) to slide the header under the car and lift it into place. Be sure to let the car cool down COMPLETELY before attempting to work anywhere near the exhaust system.

2) Start by disconnecting the battery ( you will be working near the alternator), and spraying all nuts with rust buster. Let it soak at least 1/2 hour or you WILL break something.

3) Remove stock manifolds and down pipe. Disconnect and label O2 sensors (front manifold, rear manifold, etc. ) The rear header is easier to remove if you take it apart.

4) Remove power steering bracket for removal of manifold, and donŐt re-install it or it will rattle on the headers.

5) Install headers, and put on nuts finger tight only. Leave ALL nuts loose. You can re-use the stock gaskets.

6) Line up Y-pipe with 2 headers and cat. Converter before attempting to install it. Once everything is close, start by installing the front gasket and 3 bolts (leave them loose) then the rear. Only bolt the y-pipe to the converter after the headers are located correctly on the y-pipe. Be sure to use the new cat gasket.

7) Tighten all nuts evenly, starting with the headers and working down. .

8) Extend O2 sensor wires using supplied kit. Be sure to cut and splice wires one by one to make sure y9ou do not get them mixed up. Install O2 sensor into fitting and tighten securely. You will need to have the 2 supplied O2 bungs welded into your exhaust system AFTER the cat in order to NOT get a CEL (Check Engine Light).

9) Check for loose connectors, and re-connect battery

10) Before starting car for first time, wipe header down with mild solution of soap and water to remove any grease or fingerprints.

11) Lower car and start. Check for leaks. A leak will sound like a steady sputtering, and you will be able to feel pulses of exhaust. If you do not feel any exhaust pulses, and you think you have a leak, it is probably just the difference in sound form the stock manifold compared to the race header.


my4dsc: 43


Member Credit: shift_ice

Pictures simply don’t do this lighting justice. Umnitza has a great product here that mimics the angel eye look found on select BMW’s, and in my opinion, clearly surpasses it. The DDE’s are ultra bright, very white, and an excellent compliment to the factory Maxima HIDs.

Umnitza provides a great how-to on CD-ROM when you purchase the DDE’s, but this how-to is helpful as a preview & supplement to the process. I performed this install multiple times and learned a few lessons along the way, so I’ve thrown in many of my own tips.

PLEASE NOTE:  If you had the Nissan HID Anti-theft kit installed, the process for removing the headlights is much more involved and NOT  outlined below. If your Max has the datadots install you likely have the HID anti-theft kit as well. DataDot stickers are placed on the front windows and possibly the headlights when the kit is installed. The additional bracketing itself isn’t easily visible so these stickers are the easiest indication. If you’re not in the NY area your car likely doesn’t have this kit. Sorry, to avoid abuse, I can’t provide any information on removing the kit.


  • Oven
  • Cookie sheet
  • Small flathead screwdriver
  • Torx bit (on some models) – otherwise a 10mm socket

  • Socket Wrench
  • Old towels
  • 90-second epoxy
  • Channel locks
  • Scissors
  • Toothpicks or Cotton swabs
  • Rubbing alcohol
  • Electrical tape

For optional hardwiring (highly recommended):

  • Heat-shrink tubing (optional) – Available @ Radioshack:
  • Heat gun, lighter or matches
  • Wire strippers
  • Soldering Iron
  • Solder

To wire the DDE’s as defeatable daytime running lights:

  • SPDT switch (single pole dual throw)
  • Around 25 feet of 22 gauge (or thicker) wire
  • Heat-shrink tubing – Available @ Radioshack
  • Heat gun, lighter, or matches
  • 3 slide connectors
  • Drill
  • Drill bits
  • Wire strippers
  • Crimper (typically part of wire stripper)
  • Hanger
  • Electrical tape


1. The kit:

Test all of the rings in your kit. Take the ballast (the black rectangular box) and connect it’s wires to two of the rings. Then connect the red wire to the positive terminal on your battery and the brown wire to bare metal. The rings should light up. WARNING: When the ballast is connected to power, do  NOT  touch the brown and red wires together! This will blow your ballast. This warning is straight from Matt at Umnitza.2.Remove two bolts on top of the headlight (may be torx in some). Carefully pull headlight out. Pressure tabs will release. It takes surprising amount of pressure to pull the headlight out so don’t be afraid to pull. Take care not to scratch the fender with the metal mounting pin.

3. Remove the following from the headlight unit:
– All bulbs
– The ballast. The ballast has the yellow and orange sticker in the picture below. It is attached with 3 screws.
– Three small screws that secure the clear housing on the front.

Everything else, including the remaining wiring, will be fine in the oven.

To remove the HID bulb, rotate the plastic cover counterclockwise. Then squeeze the 2 metal pins toward each other. Take care not to touch the bulb!

4. Wrap the headlight in an old towel and bake the headlight in oven on cookie sheet for 15-20 minutes at 200 – 250 degrees. The towel is a good idea to assure no part of the housing is directly touching the cookie sheet. Don’t let this part scare you. As long as you follow baking instructions you have nothing to worry about.

5 .Remove headlight from oven with old towels (will be very hot)

6. At this time you can also clear the blinker if you prefer

7. Use toothpicks or cotton swab to attach ring to the headlight with the small amounts of 90-second epoxy. Be careful – the rings are very fragile. Take care not to twist and bend them too much. The spots to epoxy are circled in red. After holding these points for around 2 minutes and the ring should be bonded like cement:

8. Route wires for the rings out the back of the headlight. Take care not to pull the wires

9. Reassemble headlight as best you can and return headlight to oven

10. Bake for 15-20 minutes at 200 – 250 degrees11.Remove from oven with old towels (careful – it will be very hot)12.Use channel locks to assure a tight seal. Go around the entire headlight squeezing it back together tightly while the housing is still hot. Take care not to scar the plastic – it’s easy to do when it’s hot. Using this process will assure a proper seal. No additional sealant is necessary since the factory sealant is reused.

13. Connect power wire (with fuse removed) to positive terminal on battery (circled in red), ground wire securely to bare metal (circled in orange), and relay to battery tie down (circled in yellow). Be sure to scrape the paint off underneath the air box screw so the ground is attached to bare metal. Any spot where the ground can be attached to bare metal will do, so feel free to look around for alternative locations.

14. Decision time. Connect the red trigger wire to a switched power source. There are three options:
–  Use the provided quick splice:  Splice the red into the green wire with white stripe on the parking light or the red wire with the yellow stripe on the headlight connector. Wired this way, the DDE’s will come on when the parking lights or headlights are turned on.
–  Wire the DDE’s to a switched 12V source.  Wired this way, the DDE’s will be on whenever the car is on. Instructions here.
–  Wire the DDE’s to a switch.  This can allow you the best of both worlds: When the switch is “on” the DDE’s come on whenever the car is on. When the switch is “off”, the DDE’s come on whenever the parking lights or headlights are on. This is the setup I chose. Instructions here.

Quick Splice:

Spliced into red wire with yellow stripe on headlight clip:

15. Mount ballast for DDE’s near the headlights. One good option is the back of the headlight ballast. There aren’t many other good options since the wiring is so short. Be sure to clean area thoroughly with alcohol before attaching the ballast to assure a good bond.

16. Time to connect the rings to the ballast. This means there’s another decision to make:
–  Use the provided connectors.  I (and others) had problems with the connections coming loose over time. Therefore, I don’t recommend using the provided connectors. If you choose this option, make sure the small points on the connectors are oriented on the same side as the points on top of the black connector. See pic for proper orientation:

–  Hard wire the rings to the ballast.  Because I had problems with the connectors coming loose, I decided to hard wire the rings. This is pretty simple. Just cut the connectors off, slip heat shrink tubing over the wire, solder the wires together, slide heat shrink tubing over the connection, and shrink the tubing over the connection with a heat gun, lighter, or match. The result:

17.I also had a problem with the cap over the HID bulb rubbing through the insulation on one of my wires. To avoid this, I highly recommend either wrapping the wires in electrical tape to provide extra protection or drilling a hole under the dust cap and rerouting the wires the cap. I chose the latter. If you chose the electrical tape route, the cap will be hard to get back on with the electrical tape wrapped around the wires, but it can be done. Make sure the wires aren’t tugged on as the cap is tightened – try to hold them in the same place as you twist the cap.

The wire that was damaged by the cap rubbing through the insulation:

The added protection with the electrical tape:

The alternative method I highly recommend is rerouting the wires by drilling a hole under the dust cap:

18. Reinstall headlight. Make sure to repress the headlight firmly to assure all pressure tabs are connected.

19.Use the black ties (included) to secure the wiring as you route the wires through the engine compartment.

20.Insert fuse and leave the parking lights out overnight to allow the hot air in the lights to escape.



my4dsc: 25


Member Credit: shift_ice

I’ve always thought the 5th gen. Maxima emergency brake boot was chintzy looking, particularly the fact that the end of the plastic base is visible through the rubber boot. I purchased a black Italian leather shift boot with titanium stitching from It was shipped quickly and came all the way from Poland within just a few days.


  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Belt wrench (in case shifter knob is too tight)


1. Remove ashtray insert to expose the screw behind it. Remove screw.

2. Open armrest and remove screw on the back wall of the storage console.

3. Remove one screw from each side of the armrest unit on the lower corner.

4. Pull up on the trim around the shifter on the side closer to the cupholders. This will release clips.

5. Remove the shift knob by twisting counter clockwise. It will be very tight and may require a belt style wrench.

6. Remove the trim piece by pulling up on both sides of the shifter and pulling down underneath the climate controls

7. Remove the two screws circled in red:

8. Disconnect the three clips on the back of the trim piece. Use a flathead screwdriver to release the clips.

9. Two clips remain securing the armrest console. They are visible inside the console. Release one clip from each side.

10. The console can now be lifted up and over the top of the emergency brake. If you have heated seats the wiring will still hold the console down a bit. Remove these plugs as well if you choose, but it’s not necessary.

The console removed and sitting off to the side:

11. If you choose, you can remove the rubber shift boot and install the leather shift boot in its place. To do so, remove the rubber boot attached to the console by pulling down from underneath on the passenger’s side and pulling up from above on the driver’s side. The leather boot  should  come with the holes necessary to attach to the points where the rubber boot was. I emphasize should because mine didn’t. This wasn’t a problem for me because I chose to leave the rubber boot in place and just install the boot over the e-brake. I prefer this look since there is no extra bunching material this way.

The rubber boot partially removed:

12. If you chose to install the leather boot in place of the rubber boot, reinstall the rubber boot  underneath   the leather boot. They can share the same mount points and the rubber boot will secure the leather boot and be out of sight under the leather boot. If you choose to leave the rubber boot in tact (as I did), just slide the leather boot over the emergency brake and pull it down as far as possible.

13. Reinstall console in reverse order. The results:

my4dsc: 10


Member Credit: shift_ice

Installation procedure:

1) Remove the kick panel underneath the steering wheel. There are 2 screws at the bottom of the trim and snaps at the top. Get the screws removed and pull towards the rear of the car to release the snaps.

2) Disconnect the dimmer (and heated steering switch) wires and remove the panel from the work area.

3) Underneath the steering column is a metal support brace that is held on by two nuts. Remove both of them with a socket wrench and remove the plate. The bolts are stationary.

4) About the same location as that bar, but further towards the sky are two more nuts that hold the steering column in place. The bolts are stationary, so you just remove the nuts. This will “drop” the steering column down about 6 inches (which is enough clearance to remove the trim).

5) Using a small screwdriver, remove the 2 bolts at the top of the instrument cluster trim.

6) Using your hands (or a small flat screwdriver wrapped in a cloth), pry apart the top of the cluster trim from the dashboard and pull towards the rear of the car. The bottom of the cluster trim snaps out.

7) Lay the trim off to the side (you do not have to disconnect everything, just move it out of the way)

8) Remove the 3 screws that are holding in the white tabs of the instrument cluster. Pull the cluster out.

9) Disconnect the electrical connectors to the cluster and remove the cluster completely.

10) There are snaps around the clear plastic cover on the cluster. Gently pry the up to remove the plastic cover.

11) Press gauge rings into place. They come with adhesive.

12) Clean the plastic cover front and back double checking for fingerprints and lint and reinstall.

13) Repeat steps 1-9 backwards to reinstall.


Using the steps above the installation is pretty simple. And the results? Very clean. Understated. Classy. It really makes the cluster look much more 3-demensional. The pictures simply don’t do them justice, particularly at night. The light from the gauges makes the rings shimmer. Well worth $35!



Comparison with/without rings side by side:

my4dsc: 7


Member Credit: shift_ice

I noticed quite a bit of wind noise from my sunroof when I first purchased the car. The wind noise seemed to be caused by the roof sitting a little too low. I spoke with the dealer and found the sunroof is easily adjustable via shims. After installing the shims I purchased for .65 cents a piece from Nissan, the wind noise is gone!


The part I purchased:

The actual shim part:

Remove the screw circled in red and pull down and toward the center of the car to remove the trim piece

The shims are circled in red.

Loosen the bolt below the shims and add/remove shims (whichever is necessary to make your sunroof sit flush:

Add/remove shims to the front and back as necessary until the wind noise is silenced.

my4dsc: 23


Member Credit: shift_ice & Chris.s

For those who want to try tackling this on their own, below is a write-up by member Chris.s. Be forewarned that a few screws that need to be removed aren’t outlined (namely, the front mounting plate) and you need a good toolkit to do this right. A few tips:

  • The job requires a wide variety of small screwdrivers – I have a huge assortment and still didn’t have all I needed. Many different screw sizes, all smaller than the drivers many typically have.
  • A good soldering iron and some basic skills in soldering
  • Needle nose pliers
  • Good organization – when completely disassembled you have a pile of around 50 screws, 4 springs, 4 liquid filled shock absorbers, and your Radio/HVAC will be in about 10 separate pieces. I suggest sitting screws in separate piles to keep track of which step they’re associated with. If you lump them all together in one cup it’ll be a mess figuring out what screw to use.
  • Be very careful removing the vents – if you use the pry method you can mar your dash/vents if you’re not careful. Use a good towel, or if you’re strong enough, I recommend just grabbing the vents at the top (with your thumbs hooked inside the top vent) and pulling up and toward you until the clips brake loose.
  • Slot out a good 4 hours to complete the work. This assumes a moderate pace with no big hang ups along the way (stripped screws for instance).
  • If your screwdriver doesn’t quite fit, don’t try to make it work. You’ll end up stripping the screw, drilling it out, and hunting at Home Depot for some decent replacement. Do yourself a favor and spend the money on a wide array of screwdrivers/bits.
  • Carefully reassemble in the exact reverse order. Don’t wing it or you’ll end up having to backtrack when you realize you have an extra part or two.


Tools required:

  • Large flat head screwdriver with a thick terry or 100% cotton cloth
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Soldering iron with solder and wick (used to remove solder)
  • Set of needle nose pliers.

1. IMPORTANT!! Remove ANY TAPES AND ALL CDS from the changer!!!

2. Disconnect battery negative terminal

3. Remove the vent sash using the flat screwdriver with the cloth over top (if done carefully you should not damage your dash so don’t worry)

4. Pop out the shifter trim, put shifter in 4th (manual) or L(auto) to make removal easier.

5. Once you remove the 4 screws from the HU bracket pull the unit outwards and prop it up on either the shifter or dash so you can remove the harnesses.

Stereo and climate control units removed from vehicle

Remove these screws. (you may need to use a ratchet)


Use a flat screwdriver for these clips to remove the face.

Use a flat screwdriver for these clips to remove the face.

Remove these. The top right one is a really small screw.

Remove these. Don’t remove the one circled in white

Use a screw driver to pop the plate off.

Once inside, remove the tape deck by removing the 4 circled screws and pulling up on the tape unit.

With tape deck removed….

Remove the screws holding the 2 side plates on. Remove these plates by sliding them upwards. (opposite side not shown)

With pliers, twist this so it is inline with the slot on the PCB

Remove this ribbon cable by pulling it out. You should now be able to pull the “Radio/tape” portion of the unit up and completely clear of the CD changer.

Begin removing the screws from the CD changer cover….

CD Changer with cover off…
Note: The 2 plastic posts on either side of the laser “May” fall out during handling. Simply put them back before reassembly.

Remove these black screws to expose the daughter board.

1. Remove the 2 black screws from the board.
2. Desolder the 2 posts circled in yellow. Remove as much solder as possible using solder wick.
3. Unlatch the brown ribbon connector by CAREFULLY sliding the 2 leavers on either end away from the connector. This ribbon cable should slide out of the connector with close to 0 resistance.
3. Bend the posts which were desoldered so that you can lift this PCB out.

***This ribbon connector is one of 2 responsible for the audio cut out.***

Put this aside.

Remove the 2 screws and the steel plate covering the rubber mounts. (do this on both sides)

Remove these 4 springs carefully with a set of small needle nose pliers.

Remove the 4 rubber mounts from each corner. Be careful not to puncture these as they are liquid filled. Remove the CD Changer from the chassis…

Remove this ribbon cable from the bottom of the CD changer

These types of semi-rigid cables are notorious for wearing and not making a complete connection in the connector type used. The contacts bend over time with the pressure from the contact pins. Since the ribbon is no longer in its original flat shape, a poor contact is made and therefore NO ******* AUDIO

My “solution” is simple. Reseat the ribbon cable back into the connector but do not insert it fully. This way the pins are going to press on a “fresh” part of the ribbon.

Sadly I do not believe this is a permanent solution. However It has worked for myself and another. I would expect this to last at least as long as the original connection did.

A permanent and proper solution would be to solder brand new wires from one PCB to the other. This isn’t exactly easy. If I do experience another failure before I choose to replace the HU for something else then I will try it.

Here are pictures of how much to leave the connector out. They are not the best pictures but should be good enough. Do this for both sides of the ribbon cable.

Reassemble in the reverse order. (don’t you hate that…)

When putting the rubber liquid filled mounts back in, make sure that each of the posts from the CD player assembly is completely inside the rubber hole.

my4dsc: 7


Member Credit: shift_ice

Many 5thgen owners complain about rear window wind noise. A TSB exists for ’00 and ’01 Maximas, but all 5th generations can exhibit this issue. If you’re outside your warranty or just prefer to do it yourself, it’s an inexpensive and simple fix.

 The wind noise comes from the rear corner of the rear windows. I purchased 3M foam tape from a local auto parts store (Advance Auto Parts) for around 8 bucks. The strip is 1/2″ x 3/4″ and is adhesive on one side:

Home Depot also sells the weather strip, but in a slightly different dimension. Just try to get foam weather stripping in a similar size to the foam picture above and it should do the trick.


  1. Roll window all the way down. The seal that needs removed is traced in red.

  2. Remove the seal above as far as possible. It’s easiest to start the removal just below the corner.

  3. Install foam in the channel where the seal was installed:

  4. While the TSB doesn’t mention it, I also added foam into the channel in the seal for good measure:

  5. Reinstall seal
  6. Enjoy a quieter interior!

This can be performed on the front windows as well to further quiet your interior if you prefer.

my4dsc: 15