Community Member Credit: เอ๋ เสนา
Community Member Credit: CS_AR
I purchased NDSII with the VAG cable in hopes that it would work on the 99 model. The 99 model has unique connect string that I’ve not been able to make work with NDSII. However, I have been able to use NDSII on my neighbor’s 5th gen. It was a “by the book setup” on a 5th gen that worked without issue. NDSII does not show support for 4th gens that I’ve seen so there is nothing misleading as far as I’m concerned. Though I have a nice piece of diagnostic software for neighborhood use now.
I bought a Consult 3 clone from China (comes with software and PC interface cable). It did not work. Beware of ODBII tool selling web sites in China with the smiling call center girls. There is nobody there to help or answer your email when the product fails to work. Money down the drain.
I purchased an ELM327 wireless module to use with NDS for Android. ELM327 appears to work with a product named Torque Lite — but it was difficult to make a connection. It really has no diagnostics that I need. Money down the drain.
I bought software from the UK that was advertised to work and provide a NATS PIN code generator and older Consult 3 version. It was advertized to work with the cable that came with the Consult 3 package from China. Money down the drain.
NOTE: None of these products will reset NATS.
Products I own that WORK on a 4th gen:
1) ECUTalk with Cable. This product was developed to work with the ODB1 Consult port pin diagram in the picture below. I have tested the Cable and the free ECUTalk software on my 1991 ODB1 Nissan in addition to a 1995, 1997 and 1999 Maxima and I30. While 4th gens are ODBII cars, they the came equipped with a Consult OBD1 style port.
2) Nissan Data Scan I (The Original) with the ECUTalk Cable. After I learned how to use the ECUTalk product above, I wanted to conduct a power balance test. I purchased NDS1 realized it works with great with the ECUTalk cable. There is a help document to describe how to connect NDS1 for a 99 model and 4th gen. To use NDS1, you’ll need to find the Ecu ID (Find ECU button) to get the code to insert in the EcuID (Hex Code) data element. Also, I had to check the 96 z32 box and use the connection string for a 1996 300ZX. IIRC the 4th gen uses the same connect string as the 1996 300ZX.
3) El cheapo ($49) OBD2 code reader from Harbor Freight. I’ve reset more codes with that orange handheld unit than I can remember on cars from Chevy to Toyota. With a good working ODB2 code reset and reader device you can definitely win friends and influence people.
Owner: Mijo Too Wavy
Year: 1999
Model: Maxima
Color: Red
Transmission: 4-Speed Automatic
Trim: SE
Mod List:
This is a gallery of 1995-1999 4thgen Maxima LED Tail Lights.
DSC03139
26992292 10154905334456394 7283534548280904630 N
26804857 10215398761625695 3686388191201823514 N
26993663 10215398760665671 5840565406655209756 N
IMG 1069
26910153 1638459596200555 2494321608069789145 O
26991831 10154905334616394 7366560645377863081 N
26804503 1638458449534003 9105918020522417924 N
26805061 10215398339855151 2999689267852389277 N
IMG 5462
27066987 10154905334831394 8354067381904480293 N
26907227 10215398759065631 2756119565951117241 N
27072382 1638459452867236 8156032288671776467 N
26758681 10159854096670162 6373354161123740310 O
26734045 10154905337421394 4149561382527960628 N
29232320089 Large
26911005 10215398341415190 5954157098946030173 O
26804584 1638457836200731 4072287363133673985 N
26992564 1638458266200688 4288290955146859464 N
26815362 2042769482636181 6798351175387198890 N
26943042 1432473700212726 1506141327 N
IMG 1047
7
26994225 10154914006601394 4957421669857734076 N
27067062 10215398774626020 4390375084753373307 N
DSCF7209-min
26911000 1638459849533863 1051733341892553808 O
JOMaximarear02noLP
26804327 10215398764745773 7743679914399593462 N
26849969 1638460096200505 1447157694499166568 O
IMG 0078
26850357 1638457406200774 5174522317255027961 O
461533 10101036861203713 1668327604 O
LEDtails3
26840711 1638459032867278 3843078098031800052 O
DSC03138
26904005 10215722455554658 890841839653638500 N
4xw2tef
29232320074 Large
26758648 10215722474155123 7108764138874422046 O
IMG 0561
26996634 1432475930212503 2128192228 N
26994292 1638459196200595 758555664846552402 N
2012-05-10 14-06-08 288
27023738 10159854095830162 388352411773697748 O
26804823 10215398338255111 1322103286456604316 N
26814917 10215398766425815 6794476676171647747 N
26908001 10159854093805162 3373515769479166454 N
22540248 10215398776986079 6789973100417023676 N
IMG 0402
26996450 1432473243546105 1246667256 N
IMG 0399
26951923 1638458846200630 8606271237425072322 O
6g2j5w8
User91454 Pic8208 1245690636-1
26815331 10215398796466566 2745972369048921600 N
26815001 10154914006356394 6726946021050700297 N
Summer-1
26995293 1432475646879198 557161957 N
DSCF7248-min
26733675 10215722442914342 6039846452133147369 N
26815018 10215398797106582 4658291554441997746 N.v1
19555014 10215398771625945 2578180015926565464 N
IMG 1104
26910896 10215398340735173 5895003668677045955 O
26239878 10215398794706522 6056599223057970546 N
Community Member Credit: 9BlackMaxMS
I figured I would take everyone through a step-by-step process of how to do it. It is really an easy job and anyone can do it.
Parts Needed:
(1) Nissan 350Z Footrest Assembly: Part # – 67840-CD00C ($23.68)
(2) Nissan AE Maxima Clutch/Brake Pedal Cover: Part # – 46531-AB000 ($19.14 ea.)
(1) Nissan AE Maxima Gas Lever Assembly: Part # – 18005-4Y900 ($27.76)
(1) 8×1-3/4 Flat Philip Head Zinc Finish Screws ($1.03)
I got the OEM parts from Dave Burnette at Southpoint Nissan at cost, and after shipping my grand total of parts came to $99.50 with the screws added in.
Tools Needed:
- Bench Vise
- Metal Hack Saw
- Bench Grinder
- Power Drill
- 1/8″ Drill Bit
- 10mm Socket
- Ratchet
- Small Philips Head Screwdriver
- Long Flathead Screwdriver
- Stubby Flathead Screwdriver
Step One: Preparing The Dead Pedal
The 350Z does not come from the factory with an elevated spot for a dead pedal, therefore there is a lot of unnecessary plastic that needs to be cut away.
First, remove the five (5) screws (four silver metal ones at each corner, and one black one in the center). Put the aluminum cover in a safe spot as it is very bendable.
Once separated, clamp the black plastic base to the bench vise and start sawing away. Leave about 1/2-3/4″ of clearance between the top and the side of the pedal. Next, use the bench grinder or a sander/sandpaper to finish the edge of the pedal and to even out the base. It should look like this when finished:
Step Two: Positioning/Mounting The Dead Pedal
Now that your dead pedal is correctly cut and finished to your liking, use the small Philips head screwdriver and screw in the small black screw to secure the aluminum plate to the base.
Go outside into your car and place the pedal where you would permanently like to place it. Rest it in place and begin drilling. You can drill directly through the carpeting. After drilling the four holes, take one 8×1-3/4 screw and fill in the four holes you just drilled. Voila, your dead pedal is installed and secured safely.
Before:
After:
Step Three: Clutch/Brake Pedals
First off, if you have an automatic, you complete this task with only one pedal (clearly) but can use the same method as I did.
Begin by peeling back the old clutch and brake pedals. They should come off with little effort. I found it best to reinstall the new pedal cover in a specific order, making each corner/side easier to slip on. Using the stubby flathead screwdriver, slide the top right corner and right side on. Next, use the flathead to flip the backing away while you set the top left part of the cover in place. Continue this process until you get the entire cover on.
I found it best to install the cover in the following order:
Continue on and do the same for the brake pedal.
Step Four: Accelerator Pedal
Begin by removing the throttle cable from the very top of the pedal assembly. It is kind of tricky, but if you wedge your long flathead screwdriver between the plastic clip and the metal on the pedal arm, it will pop free. The cable is located where these two red arrows are pointing to:
Next, unbolt the two 10mm nuts holding the pedal bracket in place (located on the firewall). Once these are taken off, the whole gas pedal assembly (pedal and arm) will fall out.
Continue the re-installation of the new pedal in reverse order of taking out the old one (first bolt in the two 10mm nuts that hold the pedal to the mounting bracket, then clip in the throttle cable).
You are finished. Put back your floormat and enjoy.
Before:
After:
Additional Photos (2002 Maxima)
Owner: Jungmin Lee
Year: 1998
Make: Samsung
Model: SM525V
Color: Black
Transmission: 4-Speed Automatic
Trim: N/A
Car Notes / History:
- Car is from the Republic of South Korea
- it has corner lamps like l30/Cefiro
- VQ25DE came with MEVI from the factory just like JDM Cefiro. VQ20DE, SR20DE, and SR18DE were also available.
- Swapped 370Z ignition coils
- VQs were only available with 4speed auto and foot parking brake
- The air quality control unit was standard on VQs. SRs were optional
- Optional Electronic Damper Control suspension. Can switch between “AUTO” and “SPORT”. The green lamp indicates “SPORT” mode.
- OEM sat nav/av system. It can function as a CD player and has a TV tuner and aux input for both video and audio. I remember we had VHS wired to it in the early 2000s.
- OEM stereo had a 6-CD changer in the trunk with rear-seat controls. I replaced it with an aftermarket unit together with the speakers but still have the unit.
- OEM Samsung Speakers
- SR equipped cars had lower power speakers. Only VQs had these.
- Cars that didn’t have sat nav had what looks very much like the standard 2din stereo of Maxima.
- No BOSE audio was available neither VQ30DE
- VQs only came with 4speed auto VLSD. Some swapped 5speed manual with parking brake conversion.
- SRs were available with 5speed manual but no VLSDoption
- Legend says 7 or 10 SM530Ls were built for Samsung executives. Wheelbase extended by 100mm(only one of those by 200mm), fitted with 17inch rims of OEM design.
Community Member Credit: tatanko
(vs. USDM 4th Gen)
Although not many have completed this swap thus far, it has proven itself to be a far more potent solution than the MEVI. The MEVI, however, has it’s own advantages.
Advantages
00VI…
- Low RPM power. Rather than lose power at low RPM’s over the USDM manifold, the 00VI actually gains a significant bit of power.
- Midrange and high RPM power. Although the 00VI and MEVI are both variable manifolds, the difference in operation and design simply allows the 00VI to outflow and outperform the MEVI even as RPMs climb, resulting in even higher peak numbers.
- Ease of finding parts. Because the 00VI was used as OEM equipment on 2000 and 2001 Maximas in the US, parts are easily accessible at a Nissan dealer or in junkyards.
MEVI…
- Ease of installation. The MEVI has many similarities to the USDM manifold in terms of design and layout, and was meant for a 4th gen engine. It is basically a bolt-on part.
- History. Simply put, people have been using the MEVI on their cars for years and years and there is lots of experience and knowledge regarding it.
- Parts. Almost all of the parts off of your current 4th gen can be re-used with the MEVI.
Disadvantages
00VI…
- Installation and preparation. The 00VI is simply a much more daunting task. It requires modification to the manifold, wiring work, many custom parts, and a lot of time.
- History. Or it’s lack thereof. The 00VI swap is still relatively new (by comparison) and very few people have done it.
- Parts. Almost nothing from your 4th gen manifold can be re-used, and even re-using your stock 4th gen intake becomes a task that involves ordering parts.
MEVI…
- Power. It doesn’t make as much peak power, and you actually lose low RPM power as a result of it’s design.
- Parts. They are hard to come by, and often must be ordered expensively through a Nissan dealer and require a good wait to get, due to the manifold never appearing on US Maximas.
On the Dyno
Boosted…
(Stephen Max’s car: 14.3 tq, 13.2 hp over MEVI and gains from 2500 rpm to 7000 rpm)
All Motor…
(BSwithTF’s car: 11.45 tq, 8.61 hp over MEVI, and gains at every rpm)
200 WHP vs. 200 WHP
(jenk01SE’s car [00VI] vs. Zack342’s car [MEVI])
Community Member Credit: Sdot82 / tatanko
As of right now, there are primarily eight different ways to do this swap. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages, which will be discussed. They are as follows:
1) -00 upper manifold
-00 lower manifold
-00 fuel rail*
-00 injectors*
-00 throttlebody
-00 IACV
-00 EGR guide tube**
-00 rear valve cover***
-00 rear coil packs***
»Pros: Probably the least amount of work/customizing (and if you can find it all on one car, the easiest to compile parts for/possibly cheapest), throttlebody doesn’t require block-off.
»Cons: Requires tuning due to larger injectors, requires work to adapt the fuel rail to the old lines, the 00 IACV is iffy at best on the 4th gen ECU.
2) -00 upper manifold
-00 lower manifold
-00 fuel rail*
-00 injectors*
-00 throttlebody (requires block-off plate in this setup)
-4th gen IACV (needs adaptor plate)
-00 EGR guide tube**
-00 rear valve cover***
-00 rear coil packs***
»Pros: Second least amount of work/customizing (and if you can find most of it on one car, easier to compile parts for/cheaper), possibly superior IACV setup (not proven), throttlebody needs block-off plate.
»Cons: Requires tuning due to larger injectors, requires work to adapt the fuel rail to the old lines, IACV needs adapter plate, throttlebody needs a block-off plate.
3) -00 upper manifold
-00 lower manifold
-00 fuel rail*
-00 injectors*
-Pathfinder throttlebody (needs adaptor plate)
-4th gen IACV (needs adaptor plate)
-00 EGR guide tube**
-00 rear valve cover***
-00 rear coil packs***
»Pros: Lesser amount of work/customizing (and if you can find most of it on one car, easier to compile parts for/cheaper), possibly superior IACV setup (not proven), larger throttlebody, throttlebody doesn’t require block-off.
»Cons: Requires tuning due to larger injectors, requires work to adapt the fuel rail to the old lines, IACV needs adapter plate, throttlebody needs adapter plate.
4) -00 upper manifold
-00 lower manifold
-00 fuel rail*
-00 injectors*
-4th gen throttlebody (needs adaptor plate)
-4th gen IACV (needs adaptor plate)
-00 EGR guide tube**
-00 rear valve cover***
-00 rear coil packs***
»Pros: Lesser amount of work/customizing (and if you can find most of it on one car, easier to compile parts for/cheaper), possibly superior IACV setup (not proven), throttlebody doesn’t require block-off.
»Cons: Requires tuning due to larger injectors, requires work to adapt the fuel rail to the old lines, IACV needs adapter plate, throttlebody needs adapter plate.
5) -00 upper manifold
-4th gen lower manifold****
-4th gen fuel rail
-4th gen injectors
-00 throttlebody
-00 IACV
-00 EGR guide tube**
-00 rear valve cover***
-00 rear coil packs***
»Pros: Doesn’t require tuning, throttlebody doesn’t require block-off.
»Cons: IACV needs adapter plate, IACV is iffy at best on 4th gen ECU, lower manifold must be drilled.
6) -00 upper manifold
-4th gen lower manifold****
-4th gen fuel rail
-4th gen injectors
-4th gen throttlebody (needs adaptor plate)
-4th gen IACV (needs adaptor plate)
-00 EGR guide tube**
-00 rear valve cover***
-00 rear coil packs***
»Pros: Doesn’t require tuning, possibly superior IACV setup (not proven), throttlebody doesn’t require block-off.
»Cons: IACV needs adapter plate, lower manifold must be drilled, throttlebody needs adapter plate.
7) -00 upper manifold
-4th gen lower manifold****
-4th gen fuel rail
-4th gen injectors
-00 throttlebody (requires block-off plate in this setup)
-4th gen IACV (needs adaptor plate)
-00 EGR guide tube**
-00 rear valve cover***
-00 rear coil packs***
»Pros: Doesn’t require tuning, possibly superior IACV setup (not proven).
»Cons: IACV needs adapter plate, lower manifold must be drilled, throttlebody must have a block-off plate.
8) -00 upper manifold
-4th gen lower manifold****
-4th gen fuel rail
-4th gen injectors
-Pathfinder throttlebody (needs adaptor plate)
-4th gen IACV (needs adaptor plate)
-00 EGR guide tube**
-00 rear valve cover***
-00 rear coil packs***
»Pros: Doesn’t require tuning, possibly superior IACV setup (not proven), larger throttlebody.
»Cons: IACV needs adapter plate, lower manifold must be drilled, throttlebody needs adapter plate.
* = can be substituted for 01 QX4 parts, ** = can be removed and replaced with block-off plate, *** = you can grind down the rear coil packs and coil pack bosses instead of using these parts, **** = use of 4th gen lower manifold requires that you turn it 180º
Community Member Credit: allmazda
I ordered the GATES 363060 and if you noticed the picture is the same. The gates hose whined like crazy. The problem I believe is the aftermarket hose is smaller in diameter in the metal ends. I ended up putting my OEM hose back on and the whine went away. It was not leaking but I swapped motors and thought it would be wise to put a new hose on when the motor was out…
The other thing besides the noise was the PS hoses were very hot with the Gates hose. Cool to the touch with the OEM hose.
Additional Info via KP11520
- I hate to whine about aftermarket hoses, but all I can say is… get used to it if you install one. That’s all you’ll hear when the hose takes over.
- I have had one for 5 years and I’m really considering buying a new OEM and throwing away the junk that was installed. Between all the typical 4th gen rattling still, with so much suspension replaced and the whine, Postal is on the horizon! Save yourself… Go OEM!
OEM Photo
