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Community Member Credit: Schmellyfart

This an overview of the main items and modifications required to install a 2007+ Altima and 2009+ Maxima VQ35DE engine into a vehicle using a VQ30DE(K) Engine Control Unit (ECU).

Blue highlighted items need to be fabricated. Some items are produced by me (or in the design process) to make this swap easier.

Red highlighted items are new gaskets that are highly suggested to replace. I usually source my OEM gaskets from nissanpartsdeal.com.

This is intended only as reference material. Refer to the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for Removal and Installation procedures as well as torque specifications. I am not responsible for any damages blah blah.

 2007+ Altima2009+ Maxima
Upper Intake ManifoldSmaller PortsLarger Ports
Throttle Body70mm75mm

*Maxima and Altima Upper Intake Manifolds are interchangeable*

Timing Components

  • To use the newer engine with the older ECU, all timing components and sensors will need to be replaced with that of a VQ30.
  • Cam adapters will be needed for this specific engine. –Currently available from schmellyfart@gmail.com. ‘StephenMax’ type Cam Adapters will NOT work.
  • VQ30 Outer Timing Cover and Access Plates
  • VQ30 Inner Timing Cover
  • VQ30 Water Pump 21010-31U85
  • VQ30 Timing Chains
  • VQ30 Timing Gears
                • 1 Crank Sprocket
                • 2 Exhaust Cam Sprockets
                • 4 Intake Cam Sprockets
  • VQ30 Intake Cam Bolts – to be used on VQ35 Exhaust Cams
                • (VQ35 Exhaust Cam bolts to be used on VQ35 Intake Cams)
                • Torque Cam bolts to VQ35 spec.
  • Water Pump O-Rings
                • Seal- O Ring 21049-ZL80B
                • Seal- O Ring 21049-ZL80C
  • Block to Timing Cover O Rings
                • Seal- O Ring 15066-ZL80B
                • Seal- O Ring 15066-ZL80D
  • Front Crank Seal
                • Inspect VQ35 Seal – Sometimes this seal is new enough where is can be reused and inserted into VQ30 Outer Timing Cover.
                • Seal-Oil, Crankshaft Front 13510-31U10
  • VQ30 Timing Chain Guides
  • Main Timing Chain Tensioner
                • Either VQ30 or VQ35 Main Timing Chain Tensioner & Guide may be used, but they must not be mixed together. For example:
                • VQ30 Main Timing Chain Tensioner & VQ30 Main Timing Chain Guide
                • VQ35 Main Timing Chain Tensioner & VQ35 Main Timing Chain Guide
  • VQ35 Secondary Timing Chain Tensioners
                • These may need replacing depending on age of the engine because the VQ35 Timing Chain creates different grooves in the tension than the VQ30 Timing Chain that will be installed. Use only VQ35 Secondary Timing Chain Tensioners.

Oil Pans – A few options:

  • VQ30 upper oil pan, lower oil pan, and oil pick up tube.
  • VQ30 upper oil pan, VQ35 lower oil pan, VQ35 oil pick up tube.
                • VQ35 lower oil pan is deeper and narrower than VQ30 lower oil pan.
                • Pro: reduced chance of oil starvation on hard cornering
                • Con: Reduced ground clearance
  • Use dipstick that matches your lower oil pan!

Water Pipes

  • VQ30 Water Outlet Pipe (transmission side of engine)- VQ30 uses two coolant sensors, VQ35 uses one.
  • 2x Water Outlet Pipe Gaskets -11062-31U00
  • Water Inlet Pipe (Near Front Valve Cover)
                  • The HR head on these VQ35 has an extra port at the Water Inlet Connector for the Oil cooler. I personally found the Oil Cooler to interfere with Crank Sensor, so I removed mine – YMMV. If removing the oil cooler, this hole will need to be plugged via tap and hole plug, or Water Inlet block off plate – (Pending field test) . (Oil Cooler removal will also require VQ30 Oil filter stud 11024-4P10A and Water Jacket Blind Plug 11051-60U2A). Once blocked off, VQ30 or VQ35 Water Inlet Connector can be used.
  • Gasket-Water Inlet 13050-31U05
  • Thermostat
                  • If VQ35 Thermostat is used, approx. 2” of the lower radiator hose will need to be cut off of Thermostat end to fit. (2002-2003 Maxima Lower radiator hose MIGHT work without trimming – not yet verified)
    • VQ30 Thermostat will bolt up without issue.
  • Thermostat Gasket: Gasket-Water Inlet 13050-31U00

Injector Clips

  • 1995-1999 Maxima needs VQ35 Injector clips soldered/crimped and sealed to the engine harness
  • 2000-2001 Maxima Injector clips require no modification.

Fuel Rail

  • VQ35 has a returnless fuel rail.
                • Convert to returnless fuel system using guides on Maxima.org (Easier)
                • Modify VQ30DE-K Fuel Rail to fit VQ35 and retain return fuel system (Harder)

Throttle Body

  • The original Throttle Body (TB) is driven electronically, the VQ30 ECU requires a cable driven TB. Due to confined space around Throttle Flange, options are limited. A custom throttle body adapter or modified throttle body is necessary (Finalizing Design).
                • 70mm 2001 Pathfinder TB w/ adapter. This TB is ideal due to OEM quality, TPS bolts up, and its Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) works very well with the VQ30 ECU. Minor wire harness modification required for IACV.
                • Heavily modified Mustang (Foxbody or SN95) TB
                • Heavily modified Q45 TB
                • Heavily modified VQ35 TB converted from electronic to cable.

Exhaust Studs

  • Cylinder 5 and 6 exhaust studs must be removed and installed in opposite holes in order to reuse older VQ30 headers or exhaust manifolds.

Valve Covers

  • VQ30 valve covers fit, but are also heavier. I would only recommend using the front VQ30 valve cover and spark plug cover if you want to keep it stealthy. Some Coil pack shenanigans may be required. Rear VQ30 valve cover is not recommended as the Upper Intake Manifold (UIM) does not clear the coil packs.

Emissions

  • Optional depending on personal preference. All emissions systems can be retained with the exception of EGR. Take good notes and mark the inlet/outlet of every emissions part, all can be reconnected to VQ35 UIM. Simplified Vacuum Hose routing diagram coming soon.

VIAS

  • Mine are currently installed but not controlled. Currently awaiting testing to verify optimal setup with VQ30 ECU.

Community Member Credit: Rochester

Part: Shifter Stabilizer Bushings – Nissan Maxima – 7.1115
Order Link: https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/7.1115

Here are the notes on removing the shifter trim and center console. Pictures follow.

  1. Remove the ashtray and the screw behind the ashtray. (picture)
  2. Unsnap the shifter trim by gently pushing your fingers into the leather on the back end for grip, then pull upwards to unclip it. (picture)
  3. Lift the shifter trim from the back end, and wiggle it down from the front end. The shifter trim fits under the climate controls and will slip free with a little effort.
  4. Once the trim piece is free, unclip the power connectors that go to the hazard lights, ashtray light, and cigarette lighter. (Yeah, there’s an ashtray light. Who knew?) Use a small flat-head screwdriver to help unclip these connectors.
  5. Unsnap the leather boot and slip the entire trim piece off the shifter. Set it aside.
  6. Now on to the center console. Unscrew the 2 console screws made accessible now that you’ve removed the shifter trim. (picture)
  7. Unscrew the two (large) screws that are on the bottom sides of the console, accessible from the back seat. There are two screws here, you want the larger ones. (picture) I’m not sure what the other one is, but it’s not the one you want.
  8. Unscrew the single screw inside the center console glove box. (picture)
  9. Find the clips inside the front of the center console that attach the console to the side trim. (picture) Unclip the center console from the front-side panels, and lift the console up and out. It’s not a smooth process the first time you try to pull the console away, so take your time. Figure out how to remove it safely by adjusting the position of the hand brake.
  10. Once the center console is free, unclip the power connector to the back seat cigarette lighter. Set the center console aside.

Next up are the steps I used to replace the bushings underneath the shifter assembly. eclid98 suggests wearing mechanics gloves for certain things. I don’t have any, and yes, I cut myself.

  1. Disconnect the shifter cable from the shifter arm by removing the nut over the OEM banjo bushing. (picture)
  2. Take out the OEM banjo bushing and replace it with the new ES banjo bushing. It can be difficult putting the new bushing in — use channel locks, or a couple of fat washers, a nut and bolt, screwing the washers together until the banjo bushing slips in. Do the same at the transmission end, under the hood. (I’m brushing past this part, because I already did this a while ago, and my playtime today consists of the bushings underneath the shifter assembly.)
  3. Don’t put the cable back on the shifter arm just yet. However, when you do, do not use the OEM nut. Go buy a replacement lock-nut… the kind with plastic in the threads. You see, now that you’re loosened it, the OEM nut will just back off again in the future, and it’s been known to do so on a number of people. (Me included, but I was lucky and felt it getting sloppy before it completely fell off.) Use a lock-nut so you don’t have to deal with that worry.
  4. Unclip the side-to-side articulating arm on the left side of the shifter. You do this by pushing it off its post, NOT by unclipping the white retention piece. That piece holds yet another plastic clip in place below it, who’s purpose is for fine-tune adjustment to the centered placement of the shifter’s left-to-right position. Play with it if you want to figure it out, but it’s not part of these instructions.
  5. Now… you think there would be some kind of retention washer on this connector. The post is designed for it, but there wasn’t anything there. I’m thinking that was a manufacturing-line SNAFU on my car, so I bought an E-washer for that purpose, and used it when everything went back together. Go figure.
  6. On to the shifter assembly. Use a 10mm socket to remove the 4 nuts that are holding the shifter assembly to the floor.
  7. Wiggle and lift the shifter assembly off those four bolts. You don’t need to remove the entire thing; you just need to establish clearance one bolt at a time.
  8. Working on one corner at a time… start by slipping the OEM metallic washer-tube-thingy (hereafter referred to just as the “washer”), off the OEM rubber bushings. Use a small flat-head to do this, prying the washer downward from the underside of the shifter assembly. Be careful you don’t lose this thing into the floorboards. That would be bad.
  9. Once the washer is removed, use pliers or a big screwdriver to force the OEM rubber bushing out of the hole. You can pull it upward (difficult), or push it downward (easier).
  10. Take the normal looking ES bushing and push it over the washer’s post (with a little force.) It’s probably easier to do this in your hand now, rather than after you re-install put the washer. (Thanks to eclid98 for that tip.)
  11. Now slip the metallic washer back on the bolts. Note, you’re still working on the underside of the shifter assembly.
  12. Repeat this step on the other 3 corners. You’ll probably cut yourself, bleed and swear a lot. It’s all part of the fun.
  13. Now slip the shifter assembly back down over the four posts.
  14. With the assembly back on the floor flat, slip the other ES bushing piece into the one of the holes, small end downward. Select one of the 2 more accessible corners as your first one. Don’t worry about forcing it down into the hole… that will happen next.
  15. Put the OEM washer/nut over the bushing and screw the bushing down into the hole. Don’t tighten it all the way just yet, just enough to push the bushing down into the hole. (Thanks again, eclid98.)
  16. Repeat this step on all four corners.
  17. Last step — tighten down all four corners evenly.

Reference Photos

Additional Insight from: AWeb80

I do have a tip to put the banjo bushings in. Put a bolt that is smaller, not snug, through the bushing and use a nut to tighten it in place. I think the pictures explain themselves. It took all of 2 minutes per bushing. It pushes it in square and is MUCH easier than trying to squeeze it in w/ pliers.

*don’t mind the extra nuts I have on the left side….they are just there as spacers so I didn’t have to thread the actual nut on so far. *

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Community Member Credit: Rico Rodriguez

Big shout to Rico for spending countless hours in finding a cost-effective solution to coilpacks for the VQ35DE engine. This also works on other models and years.

For those that don’t know, Audi coilpacks are stronger and better than Nissan coilpacks. They add better mpg and more HP/TQ. It works on bone stock vehicles or highly modified vehicles. Just rewire the OEM pigtails to Audi pigtails, plug it in and play!

Nissan Coilpack only has 1 coil. Audi has 2 coils as you can see in the picture below. By having 2 coils it doubles the spark output and can easily handle spark blow out that turbocharged vehicles suffer from. Because it’s outer exterior has a metal body it can dissipate heat ALOT quicker than Nissan rubber which helps with heat cycling. It’s also cheaper than OEM Nissan Coilpacks.

Audi R8 Coil Pack Advantages:

  • 50,000 volts compared to Nissans/Infiniti 30,000 volts.
    • Some measure it with Kv so Nissans coils put out 21Kv while VW coils put out 30Kv
  • Quicker Heat dissipation. (Because of its metal body construction it can quickly dissipate heat. Nissan OEM body is made out of rubber that isolates heat instead of disperses it.)
  • More complete burn of the fuel mixture compared to OEM Nissan which equals to better MPG.
  • Idle Stability Improved
  • NO CEL (Check Engine Lights)
  • BEST PART ABOUT THEM IS THEY ARE CHEAPER $$$ than Nissan OEM yet they are much better.
  • Looks 10000% Cooler than OEM Coilpacks

Now the coil packs price varies due to different name brands. They range from $132-$216 for a V6 engine. Below is the link of the coil packs below so you can see the prices and brands. Doesn’t matter which brand you use, I’ve tested them all and they all make the same exact power.

Order Link: https://www.nedautoparts.com/search?q=Audi+coilpack

Reference Photos

Installed a 2003 Nissan Maxima (Credit: Altaf Rahaman)

Important Note: The 02-08 DE Manifold requires NWP spacers.

Important Note: The 2nd Gen Engine does not require spacers. Straight plug-n-play.

Adaptor Options:

You can also purchase the adapters directly from Rico. Below are the prices.

Create Connectors using O2 Plugs (Credit: Rob Tilley)

Finally got my R8 coils installed today and I must say it was definitely worth the time and money I spent. I installed them on my turbo 350z running 15psi with #7 plugs. Car runs so much smoother, especially under boost. It’s a totally different car. I used o2 plugs from a 02/03 Maxima to make the adapters for the plug. Just have to file down the alignment guide on the outside of the blue connector.

Make your Own Clean Connectors using new Plugs: https://www.my4dsc.com/audi-r8-coilpacks-installed-on-nissan-maxima-vq35de-make-your-own-plug-n-play-connectors/

If you’re splicing directly (Courtesy of Jerome Fenwick)

Nissan OEM Coilpack vs Audi R8 Price Difference (Courtesy of EddyMaxx)

Community Member Credit: Ben Garner

The ECU monitors the transmission-mounted speed sensor to determine vehicle speed. When the vehicle speed limit is reached, the ECU cuts the fuel flow to the engine to slow the car. Ok, in no way do I condone breaking any laws. I figured out how to get rid of the speed limiter on the 4thgen with automatic transmission. This also works on 5thgen Maxima with automatic transmission. 

The signal path for the vehicle speed sensor is as follows:

  • Sensor to Speedometer
  • Speedometer to ECU & Cruise Control

If the signal is interrupted at the actual connection to the ECU, speedometer, odometer, and cruise control functions are preserved. The ECU does not receive a vehicle speed signal, therefore it will not limit the vehicle speed. This modification is easy. But beware, it does include modification of the factory ECU wiring harness…not for the inexperienced.

Tools and Supplies Needed:

  • Socket Wrench
  • Socket Wrench Extension
  • 12mm Socket
  • Crimp Tool

Disconnect the negative battery terminal

Remove ECU cover from passenger side footwell.

Loosen bolt in the center of the main ECU connector using your 12 mm Socket / Socket Wrench and Extension.

Unplug the main ECU connector. Remove snap-on plastic cover from ECU connector.

Locate PINK wire with BLUE stripe. (This wire is located on the right half of the connector when plugged in ECU PIN 29)

Cut PINK/BLUE Wire (It is recommended that you wire this up to a separate switch so you can turn it on/off when needed. Ensure that you do not cut the Fuel Temp Wire as it is also PINK/BLUE)

If you check the codes, you will get P0104 (Vehicle speed sensor fault) and P0504 (A/T control unit fault). To prevent the CEL you can use a switch to switch on/off for the quick burst for going over 120+ MPH. So far there have been no drivability problems associated with this mod.

Reassemble ECU connection and Reconnect negative battery terminal.

Verify the speed limiter/governor is removed by going past your previously limited speed.

Image result for 4thgen maxima speedometer

Disclaimer: This mod is entirely up to you so do this at your own risk. This modification will cause the “check engine” light to illuminate.

Community Member Credit: uptownsamcv

I started pulling my tranny today so I can change the throwout bearing and I stripped the drain bolt. luckily I found a video on Youtube on how to remove it with a chisel and punch.

I had ordered 2 new Smart-O R23 M18x1.5 drain plugs ahead of time for whenever I was going to need to change the gear oil in my transmission, the plug uses a 19mm wrench instead of a 10mm Allen bit.

 

 

Community Member Credit: 96SEmaxB

So I started blowing this in cab 10amp fuse called meter, I checked alternator, battery, called harness lights all the normal stuff, couldn’t find it, meanwhile that fuse controls the cluster and puts the vehicle into fail-safe mode… so I scoured the forums and google and was running out of free time and fuses, so I brought it into the shop (local mechanic)…

It took him 9 hours of following wire and circuit diagrams, Forums, calling Nissan dealerships, had everything unplugged from harness and couldn’t find what was causing the short…

He then noticed on the schematics for that circuit there was a mirror section, not side mirrors but rear mirror, apparently the connection at the actual rear view mirror was toast, melted the wires and shorted internally, unplugged mirror and voilaaa fuse didn’t blow.

So 870$ later I had the issue fixed, a measly 100$ mirror crippled my baby for 3 days and cost me 900$.

I’m just posting this so anyone that runs into the same issue to remember that the rearview mirror may not b on the diagram plainly, but it’s something to check also.

Additional Note:

THANK YOU SOO MUCH
This problem happens for me a while back and replaced the fuse and it didn’t pop it happened again and I spent the whole day looking for a short and YouTube videos and forums and I found this one went and looked at the wires behind the mirror they were barley touching so I pulled them apart and replaced the fuse again and it didn’t pop so thank you soon much for your fourm

Community Member Credit: Thrillho

In case you’ve disrupted your throttle body and need to perform the Idle Air Volume Relearn, you’ve probably noticed that it doesn’t “stick” , meaning it worked fine for the time being and then it didn’t.

I am using the Nissan Data Scan app with an ELM obdii Bluetooth adapter, the car’s 2000 Maxima GLE.

In order to make the Idle Air Volume Relearn stick using any of those apps and Bluetooth adapters, you can’t wipe any pending codes before/after Relearn is performed; for some reason when you use a third party app instead of Nissan Consult, it’ll write the changes onto the same partition as the error codes. What that means is you’re gonna write the IAVR over any pending existing codes in order to make it stay.

1. Don’t wipe any codes or clear the SES light
2. Perform idle air volume relearn

It’ll stay on your ECU as long as there is a pending code or the SES light is on. Once you clear the code and the SES light, your idle air relearn goes away as well. If you clear your codes and then do the relearn, your relearn will get overwritten once the code comes back. If you do the relearn with a pending code, it’ll stay there along with the code.

Community Member Credit: mist max2000

I just wanted to throw this together so people can see what what an LED interior looks like…in post number 2 and 3 ill put some detailed pics up.. Let me know what you think.. any questions feel free to ask…

DAYTIME:

NIGHT TIME:

to get the map lights to work you need to reverse the polarity..once you remove the map light/sunglasses holder (2 phillips scerws in sunglasses holder then it pops off) you need to switch the – and + wires.. i did this by using quick taps as can be seen in this pic…

Heres the bulb I used,… Its a BA9 5 LED

heres the Dome light.. i got a 36 LED circuit board that had a adapter on the end the fit in the festoon bulb i dont remember the exact size sorry…and yes thats duct tape lol

heres the bulb for the personal mirror lights…3 SMT vanity bulb

and the bulb in the doors.. 6LED bulb 194 wedge bulb

I used 194 wedge bulb that had 4 LEDs flat faced like the previous 6 LED picture above…. heres the license plate LED’s

oh and i also put the same LED’s in my running lights as my license plate lights 194 wedge 4 led-flat,..also in the pic..paired with 5K HID fogs

Member Credit: SGSash / onpointdyno

I just picked up my HR heads from Gord Bush who cleaned them up for me and flow tested them. We of course have previous numbers from the non-revup heads that I had Gord Bush port – so let’s compare! Visually looking at the HR heads you can see just how much bigger the intake port is than the non-revup heads, and the numbers prove it – the HR heads flow the same as the ported DE heads (in fact substantially more at low valve lifts). The exhaust doesn’t flow quite as well as the ported DE exhaust did, but it is still substantially better than a stock DE at high lifts.

Stock VQ35DE heads on the flow bench, very similar looking to the HR exhaust ports

Stock DE intake ports on the flow bench, substantially different than the HR

One reason the exhaust flows less at low valve lifts may be due to the fact that the HR has smaller valves. While this may be counter intuitive to those of you that go out there and buy the biggest valves you can, a smaller valve shrouds the combustion chamber less, and in-fact promotes flow at higher lifts. My imagination tells me you want the smallest valve and biggest port you can get away with, without overheating the valve.

Once these HR heads are ported, we should be able to get a decent bit more exhaust flow and hopefully crack the 400whp barrier with shorter intake runners and exhaust runners.

 

Community Member Credit: VQPower

Automatic to 5spd Conversion Details for Nissan Maximas:

Parts Needed:

  • 5spd Tranny (Try and Get the I30 Lsd or Canadian Maxima Lsd if Possible ? Doubt It)
  • Both Manual Drive Shafts (if You Have Abs You Need Specific Ones, if You Don’t Have Abs You Can Use Abs Ones)
  • 1 Clutch Kit (Clutch Disc, Pressure Plate, Throw Out Bearing)
  • 2 Shifting Rods (Support Rod + Control Rod) (Acquire Used W/ All the Hardware)
  • Return Spring (Connect to the 2 Shifting Rods (Buy This New, the Stiffer the Tighter Your Shifter Feels)
  • 1 5spd Starter
  • 1 Shifter (Acquire Used to Get Nuts and Bolts (Buy With the Shifter Rods)
  • 1 Shifter Console Piece (Interior)
  • 1 Shift Consul Bracket (Replaces Your Auto One) (Interior) (Dealer Name Plate Bolt and Transaxle Hole Cover)
  • 1 Brake Pedal
  • 1 Clutch Pedal
  • 1 Master Cylinder
  • Hydraulic Lines for Clutch
  • 1 Slave Cylinder for Clutch
  • 1 Extra Set of Tranny Harnesses (Might Come W/ 5spd Tranny)
  • 1 18ga Wire and Wiretaps
  • Assorted Cotter Pin Set.
  • 1 Manual Fly Wheel
  • 1 Manual Motor Mount
  • Tranny Fluid (Gl-4 or Redline is Preferable)
  • Locking Pin and Clip for the Clutch Pedal to the Master Cylinder (You Could Bend a Nail but I Would Go to the Dealer and Pay $4)
  • 2 Nuts That Fit the Threads on the Clutch Pedal.
  • 1 Bolt That Bolts in the Top of the Clutch Pedal (the Dealer Can Find It’s Size for You)
  • 1 Bolt That Connects the Control Rod to the Tranny (the Dealer Can Find It’s Size for You)
  • 1 Haynes Manual Just in Case You Need Extra Help

Preface: The whole idea behind a manual transmission is there is no electronics needed to run it ? basically, our slogan was, if the car starts and revs, the conversion will work. The converted car did not have ABS, but our donor car did ? ABS IS A PAIN because it sits right where you will run the hydraulic lines (In a factory 5 speed w/ ABS the lines run under the ABS brain)! Factor in more time if you have Antilock Brakes System. The converted car was a 1995 Nissan Maxima SE, and the donor car was a ’96 Nissan Maxima SE w/ ABS ? I don’t know about other year Maxima’s, but I would assume all 4th gens are somewhat the same when it comes to this conversion (please email me if you know otherwise). I am not liable if you mess up your car, mine worked PERFECT, but don’t blame me if you screw it up!

Before you do the conversion: Check to make sure that you can physically put the transmission in every gear before putting it in the car. Our first transmission’s shifting rod (part in the tranny) was slightly bent and we didn’t realize that we had to junk that tranny until AFTER we had everything finished and realized the car wouldn’t go into gear.

Overview:
1. Bypass the P-N start switch
2. Install pedals and clutch hydraulic system
3. Remove drive shafts
4. Remove tranny + torque converter
5. Install clutch setup.
6. Install tranny
7. Replace old shifter console w/ new and run shifting rods to tranny
8. Reinstall drive shafts

Bypass the P-N start switch

1.1 TAKE OFF BATTERY CLAMPS (neg and pos) to make sure you don’t mess something up electrically.

1.2 Remove the entire air box assembly and lines so you can see onto the top of your tranny.

1.3 Disconnect the harness that goes into the front of the tranny that only has 2 wires. (Note: the front of the tranny refers to the part that is closest to the front of the car)

1.4 Get your wire and cut a 6 inch strip

1.5 Use the wire taps to connect the 6 inch piece of wire to both of those wires (This will in effect connect these wires)
Add-on to the instructions:

In step 1.5, it says to connect two wires on the tranny harness. You instead, need to run a wire from both of the tranny wires, to the clutch pedal switch (small switch that is engaged when you push the clutch all the way down). This will let your car know when it is “Neutral (since it thinks it is an automatic)”.. your reason for doing this, is so that 1. You cant start the car without the clutch (safety)… and #2, SO CRUISE CONTROL WILL WORK.

1.6 Don’t reconnect the plug.

1.7 Connect the battery.

1.8 Put your parking brake on

1.9 Try to crank your car (Don’t start it, just see if it cranks)
If it does not, re-tap the wires or connect them in some way. And try to start again.
If it still does not start you can’t follow instructions and are not capable of doing this yourself since it is the easiest part.

2. Install pedals and clutch hydraulic system

Tools needed:

  • Drill
  • Phillips head screw driver
  • Metric socket set w/ extensions
  • Good drill bit set
  • Pencil
  • Tree bit (stone bit shaped like a tree, they sell it at Home Depot)
  • Cylinder bit (stone bit shaped like a cylinder, they sell it at Home Depot)

2.1 TAKE OFF BATTERY CLAMPS (neg and pos) you don’t want to burn anything up or blow your airbags.

2.2 Remove lower drivers dash cover (2 Phillips head screws at the bottom)
Pull the cover off w/ caution not to damage the clips at the top.

2.3 Remove the Metal bracket just under the steering wheel (2 12mm bolts)

2.4 Remove the plastic shield from around the steering wheel column (6 Phillips head screws)

2.5 Pull the cover apart and off.

2.6 Remove the plastic housing around the Speedo. (2 Phillips. screws) pull it being careful not to damage the clips at the bottom.

2.7 Unplug the items that are mounted on it.

2.8 Remove 4 screws that hold in the Speedo.

2.9 Pull the Speedo out toward the passenger side. (you can leave it connected)

2.10 Remove the 2 12mm bolts that are now visible where the Speedo sat on the lower left side. That holds a bracket in.

2.11 Reinstall the Speedo. (Don’t worry about those screws needing to go back in)

2.12 Reinstall the plastic housing

2.13 Remove the clip and pin that hold the brake pedal cable on.

2.14 Remove the 4 nuts that hold the break pedal on.

2.15 Remove the 12mm bolt that holds the top of the break pedal on.

You will see where it goes because you will have manual one as a reference

Hopefully you have bought a matching bolt from Nissan, if not take it to the dealer and get one. You can’t install the clutch pedal w/out it.

2.16 Remove the 4 bolts that hold the steering wheel up.

2.17 Lower the steering wheel and let it rest on the seat.

2.18 Remove the metal bracket that the lowest left nut went on.

? Remember you took 2 bolts out of it before in the Speedo area.

2.19 Throw that bracket away. (It is useless.)

2.20 Remove the brake pedal.

2.21 Install the new pedal. (Put the 4 nuts on and the one bolt)

2.22 Put the locking pin in and the clip.

2.23 Bolt your wheel back up. (The three remaining bolts will be good enough.)

2.24 Look up where it seems the clutch should mount.

2.25 If you see a hole in the padding good. If not, you can see it outlined. (Pull it out)

2.26 Now you should be faced w/ a perfect padding hole but no hole through the firewall.

2.27 Make a trace of the master cylinder (I used cardboard)

It will have a big hole and 2 little ones for the bolts

2.28 Cut out your trace and slide it over the master cylinder to make sure it is accurate.

2.29 Mark the top of your trace (that canister on the master cylinder is up)

2.30 Fit it into that area that is punched out under the dash and draw an outline (pencil works great)

2.31 Open the hood.

2.32 Look into the upper driver side area against the firewall.

You will see the cruise unit.
It is the only electronic item in that area.

2.33 Remove it.
There will be one bolt on it and 2 nuts that you access in the wheel well.

2.34 Drill your 2 small holes for the master cylinder from your trace. (From the inside of the car was the easiest.)

2.35 Test the clutch pedal (by putting it through the holes you drilled)

The clutch pedal should be upright and level.
It should fit in there w/out force.
If it does not fit adjust the holes so it does.

2.36 Drill a good size hole in the big part of the trace (Where the master cylinder goes.)

2.37 Use your tree stone bit to make it bigger and work to carve out the hole to the traced size.

2.38 Use your cylinder stone bit to make it bigger and work to carve out the hole to the traced size.

2.39 Test the master cylinder in the hole.

If it does not fit correct the hole

Note: On a factory car w/ 5speed there is a spacer that is ? of an inch thick that is on the inside of the firewall. The 2 bolts that are on the clutch pedal that travel through the firewall go through this spacer, and somehow you will need to recreate it (VERY IMPORTANT!! that you get it just the right size, maybe buy the spacer from Nissan).

2.40 You can recreate it by getting big nuts that fit over these screws and using them as a spacer (or better yet, buy one from Nissan).

2.41 Install the clutch pedal and master cylinder.

2.42 Install the bolt you acquired to match the brake pedal bolt. (The car has this place built in just look for the place)

2.43 Install the locking pin to join the master cylinder and the clutch pedal.

2.44 Put the pin in it.

2.45 Reinstall every panel you removed except the one you tossed.

2.46 Pat yourself on the back.

3. Remove Drive shafts

Tools Needed:

  • Phillips head screw driver
  • Flat head screw driver
  • Metric socket set. (7mm-19mm)
  • Metric wrench set (7mm-19mm)
  • A good breaker bar
  • 1.5″ socket that will attach to your breaker bar.
  • Needle nose pliers
  • 1 jack
  • 2 jack stands
  • Tie rod removal tool (You want the one that screws) (Buy at AutoZone)

3.1 Get on totally nasty “throw away” clothes because you are not going to even want to see them ever again!

3.2 Loosen lug nuts.

3.3 Jack the car up very high, to where the tires are about 9-12in above the ground. Place jack stands under it!!!

3.4 Remove your wheels.

Apply 3.5 – 3.14 parts to both wheels.

3.5 Remove the cotter pin from the center of the rotor area (Wheel Hub)

3.6 Remove the cotter pin from the bolt that connects the Knuckle and the Tie rod.

3.7 Insert the screw driver into the rotor (in those little holes around the diameter)

3.8 Remove that Huge Nut in the center of the rotor. (1.5 inch socket and the breaker bar will be necessary)

3.9 Get the washer off and keep all of these parts clean.

3.10 Remove the nut that holds the tie rod on.

3.11 Use your tie rod remover to loosen it on the knuckle. Then pull it apart.

3.12 Remove the 2 bolts that join the suspension to the Knuckle area.

3.13 Fold the knuckle (brake assembly) area out of the way while LIGHTLY banging on the end of the big threaded shaft you removed the large nut from

Don’t screw up the treads. You can protect them by putting the nut back on and making it even w/ the end.

3.14 You should now have the driveshaft hanging free on the outsides of the car.

3.15 On the driver’s side, push the driveshaft in a little bit (It compresses), and yank it out ? you might have to do it a few times before it comes free. (It will POP out)

3.16 Remove that driveshaft and be very careful not to break the rubber boots.

3.17 On the passenger side, you must go under the car and find the support that the driveshaft goes through before it gets to the tranny. It’s a pain to get at, but there are 3 bolts in a triangle around the outside of the support holding the driveshaft in.

3.18 Remove the three 12mm bolts, and then push in the shaft and pull it out. Be very careful not the break the rubber boots and gently set the two drive shafts aside.

3.19 Pat Yourself on the back you have successfully removed your drive shafts.
Note: Your Shocks/Springs are only 8 min and 3 bolts away from replacement if you want to do it at this time.

4. Remove tranny + torque converter

Tools Needed:

  • Everything from drive shaft removal.
  • 1 hydraulic Jack
  • 1 Nissan Factory Jack
  • 2 bricks (You might need them, depends how high your car is)
  • One extra person

4.1 You now must remove your whole air intake system from the top of the engine. Everything including the rubber 3″ flexible hose. (After your MAF and all that) and unscrew the little clamp. Gently pull it away, and take out all the other bolts (this will be a little different if you have pop vs. cai vs. stock) so you can figure it out. Get all those hoses off and out of the way, so you can see easily down to the tranny.

4.2 Remove all plugs that go into the tranny.

4.3 Remove the dipstick for the auto tranny , it has one bolt at its base.

4.4 Remove the rubber lines that go into the tranny, you can cut them because you won’t use them again.

4.5 Remove the plug that connects to the starter

4.6 Remove the fat wire (pos) that connects to the start itself.

4.7 Remove the starter. (2 17mm bolts)

4.8 Pull the starter out.

4.9 Remove the plastic panels from the driver side wheel well so you can see the side of the tranny.

4.10 Remove the linkage line that goes to the front of the tranny (Fat cable that bolts next on at the front left corner of the tranny)

4.11 Put your hydraulic jack under the tranny.
Just on to the tranny, not so much pressure you are jacking the engine up.

4.12 Remove all the bolts that bolt the tranny on (there are 17mm on top and 14mm on the bottom) except for one 17mm on the front. Just loosen it a little.
These bolts will be hard to break and you will need a breaker bar to loosen them.

4.13 Put your Factory Nissan jack under the support beam (Runs under the Engine/Tranny) toward the front, up close to those 2 bolts but leave enough room so you can loosen and remove them.
This is where you might need the brick to get up to the beam.

4.14 Look down from the top on to your tranny.

4.15 You will see a motor mount sort of next to your battery w/ 4 bolts going into the tranny

4.16 Remove these bolts.

4.17 Very slowly, lower the transmission 1/2″(Hydraulic Jack) and then the engine 1/2″(Nissan Jack) until they are sitting very low where the transmission is clear of anything in its way coming off the engine.

4.18 Remove the last 17mm bolt that holds the transmission onto the engine.

4.19 Have your extra person ready.
They will work the jack as you do the wiggling, wedging and clearance checking

4.20 Look for a place between the tranny and the engine that you can stick a screwdriver

4.21 Crack the seal w/ a screwdriver.

4.22 Now pull the tranny away from the engine wiggling it off the engine gently (don’t let that rod be bending around or rest the weight on that center shaft!)

4.23 Now, using the jack slowly lower the transmission to the point where you can roll it out the driver side wheel well.

4.24 You are now looking at the torque converter mounted on the engine.

4.25 Go get some food and Pat yourself on the back.

4.26 Look at the bottom of the engine (Sort of from the passenger side) and you will see a black cover w/ 2 small bolts.

4.27 Remove the bolts and the cover.

4.28 While looking through this hole use your screwdriver to rotate the flywheel around on the teeth of the flywheel until you see a bolt.

4.29 Use the screwdriver as a wedge to prevent the flywheel from turning and remove the bolt.

4.30 Repeat for all four bolts.

4.31 Slide the torque converter off.

4.32 Now look at the flywheel and you will see 8 bolts in the center bolting it to the crankshaft.

4.33 Use your screwdriver wedge to break loose all the bolts.

4.34 Remove the bolts and your flywheel.

4.35 Remove the bolt that holds the tranny motor mount and remove it.
The manual one is different.

4.36 Good job, you just ate so I would continue installing your new clutch setup.

5. Install clutch

Tools Needed:

  • Torque wrench
  • Hayes Manual
  • Metric Socket Set
  • Screwdriver
  • Clutch aligning tool

5.1 Take your flywheel, line it up on the engine, and attach it in place of the old one.

5.2 Torque it to the specs in the Hayes Manual, using your screwdriver wedge.

5.3 Make sure the flywheel is VERY clean, no grease on it? if there is use 409 to clean it, and sand it with 180grit or more sandpaper. VERY IMPORTANT that it is clean

5.4 Put in your clutch aligning/centering tool in the engine hole.

5.5 Slide your clutch on over the tool.

5.6 Slide on the centering piece of the tool and get the clutch just right.

5.7 Put on the new pressure plate you have, make sure the clutch is centered and pressure plate lines up right, and bolt it all down, making sure you do it with a torque wrench as it is VERY important in there.

5.8 Remove the tool.

5.9 Now go get some sleep seeing you probably did most of this yourself and it took all day.

6. Install the Tranny

Tools Needed:

  • Torque wrench
  • Hayes Manual
  • Metric Socket Set
  • Screwdriver
  • 1 hydraulic Jack
  • 1 Nissan Factory Jack
  • One extra person

6.1 Put the manual motor mount back up into the car w/ the “M” symbol facing the engine.

6.2 Put the 5spd tranny on the jack and roll it in through the wheel well the same as you took the other out.

6.3 Slowly lift it up w/ the jack to where it seems to be aligned.

6.4 Make sure that it is lined up just perfectly level w/ the engine when doing this, because once you put it on the engine, it is virtually impossible to rotate it and it HAS to line up PERFECT for the bolts to go in (Can be very frustrating)

6.5 Here is the hardest part, wiggle the transmission over toward the engine until it is flush.
Be sure to have the shaft going through the middle of the of the pressure plate.
If it won’t continue to travel rotate the flywheel (w/ your screw driver) just a little and try it again.

The shaft and clutch have little teeth that need to align.

6.6 Quick put a bolt on (The front 17mm is the easiest)

6.7 Work all the way around the tranny putting the bolts on. You might need the jack to make small alignment adjustments to get some bolts on.

Make sure and leave the bolt (or both of them if you are going to try) for the shifter stabilizer out so you don’t do it twice

6.8 Lift the tranny 1/2″ and the engine 1/2″ and so on and so forth till its back up.
Have your helper make sure the motor mount does not bind and lines up w/ the holes on the tranny.

6.9 Put the bolts in the support beam and the motor mount onto the top of the tranny.

6.10 Put in the starter using the two bolts.

6.11 Torque all the bolts to spec.

6.12 Connect all the wires back to the starter.

6.13 Plug in whichever harnesses still plug together.

6.14 Put the plastic panels back on in the left wheel well.

6.15 Fill the tranny w/ fluid using the holes where the drive shafts go in.
It is full when fluid starts coming out of the hole.

6.16 You are almost there you have done everything hard.

7. Replace old shifter console w/ new and run shifting rods to tranny

Tools Needed:

  • Phillips head screw driver
  • Flat head screw driver
  • Metric socket set. (7mm-19mm)
  • Metric wrench set (7mm-19mm)
  • A good breaker bar
  • 1.5″ socket that will attach to your breaker bar.
  • Needle nose pliers

7.1 Now comes some fun. From inside the car, pry up the console piece that sits around your automatic shifter w/ the screwdriver.

7.2 Pull it off and out of the way.

7.3 Take the screw out that holds the shifter handle on.

7.4 Pull it up and down while trying to pull the button off. It will come off the shaft.

7.5 Remove the cover w/ the shift indicators on it (has some Phillips head screws)

7.6 Look down into the hole and you will see 2 cables coming in.

7.7 The small one on the left (Toward passenger side) is the key release linkage.

7.8 Remove the clip that holds it on and pull it out a little (in only moves 1/8 of an inch) wrap tape around it so it can’t move. I does not want to move so don’t worry.

7.9 Remove the larger cable and bend it out of the way.

7.10 You can remove the cable or cut or bend it, it was what changed the gears in the automatic but is now useless.

7.11 Remove the 2 nuts on the top that holds the Aluminum frame onto the painted area of the car.

7.12 There will be two nuts holding the assembly up from the underneath ?

7.13 Go under the car, and pull the rubber things that hold your exhaust up? there are 3.

7.14 Unbolt the heat shield on the ends (not in the middle) so you can get under it.

7.15 Take out the two bolts from the bottom that hold the shifter piece in your car, and remove it from the top.

7.16 Run the two shifting rods above the heat shield.

7.17 Put the shifter piece in the car from the top, but don’t bolt it.

7.18 Go back underneath the car and put the spring in (It runs between the 2 rods)

7.19 Bolt in the shifter.

7.20 Attach the support rod (W/ 2 bolts if you can get them) to the Tranny/Engine.
There is only one place it will bolt so it won’t be too hard to find.

7.21 Attach the shifter control rod to the transmission

7.22 Put trim piece back inside of car and screw on the shift knob.

—> 

8. Reinstall drive shafts

Tools Needed:

  • Phillips head screw driver
  • Flat head screw driver
  • Metric socket set. (7mm-19mm)
  • Metric wrench set (7mm-19mm)
  • A good breaker bar
  • 1.5″ socket that will attach to your breaker bar.
  • Needle nose pliers
  • 1 jack

8.1 Reinstall the MANUAL drive shafts. (They are different then the automatic shafts)

8.2 Put the left one in first.

8.3 Put the shaft in as good as possible. (Be careful not to damage the boots) Then sort of extend the joints and slam them together. The idea is to make it into a self-sufficient hammer. Until it clicks into place. It will!!

8.4 Reinstall the Knuckle (Brake assembly).

8.5 Remember your big washer and be sure to get that big bolt tight.

8.6 Put passenger drive shafts back in, don’t forget the triangle that locks the passenger side one in.

8.7 Put center driveshaft bolt back on, cotter pin in, control arm bolt and cotter pin, and two bolts that mount the wheel to the suspension.

8.8 Wheels back on, drop the car.

8.9 Turn the car on; let it idle for about 30 ? 60sec to make sure oil gets through the engine and tranny.
HAVE FUN!!!!!! Remember you have to BABY that clutch all the time for the first 500+ city miles

REVERSE LIGHTS WIRING: (Thanks Stephen Max for write up)

The back-up lights turn on when a circuit is completed when the transmission is in reverse. This is true for both automatic and manual transmissions. All you have to do is find the correct wires in the automatic harness that go to the gear selector mechanism of the automatic, and splice them into the wires that go to the neutral/reverse position indicator on the manual transmission.

1. Look for a large, gray wiring harness connector that is unused. This used to carry a bundle of wires to the gear selector mechanism on the front of your automatic transmission. This harness connector should just be dangling somewhere around the top of your manual transmission about where the slave cylinder is. There are eight wires that go into this connector. The wires you need to find are the solid green wire and the green/white wire. Splice two wires into these two. To test to make sure you got the correct two wires, turn on your ignition and touch the ends of the two splices together. Your back-up lights should come on regardless of what gear you are in.

2. Find the harness that comes from the neutral/reverse position indicator switch on your manual transmission. The switch is the one that is down at the bottom of the transmission and there are four wires in that harness. The wires you are looking for are the blue wire and the blue/red wire. To make sure you got the right two, put the transmission into reverse and get a multimeter and check the resistance across the two pins in the connector that correspond to the blue and the blue/red wires. The resistance should be near zero.

3. Now just take the two splices from the auto harness and splice them into the blue and blue/red wires in the manual harness. It doesn’t matter which splice goes to which wire.

Now, for the questions everyone wants me to answer..

1. Q: Is it really worth it? A: It is a whole lot of work, I will say that right now. When you are doing it, it gets frustrating and seems almost not worth it. When you take your first ride in it converted to 5spd, it makes everything worth it 10x!!! And then to realize you get to drive it every day as a 5spd from then on. Without a doubt I would do it again in a heartbeat.

2. Q: Does it really work and is it still running? A: Yes, I have been running on it for over a year now, with no problems. The thing runs AWESOME, no trouble from it so far (knock on wood) and I have really DRIVEN the car a TON(

3. Q: How much did it cost? A: This is the hardest question to answer… can’t really give you a dollar amount. People are paying anywhere from 800-1500$ for all the parts (check a bunch of junkyards, even if they have to ship the stuff…). Then labor, you can attempt it yourself, its not super difficult but it isn’t exactly like putting a strut bar on.. I would advise having someone who is very experienced do it with you, or pay a shop to do the labor (prices can vary a TON!!.. 500-1500+$)