Credit: Z1 Motorsports

Here are the dyno results on the 2023+ Nissan Z. This car was a completely stock 6-speed manual and produced 356whp and 383tq. We’re excited to start applying what we’ve learned from our VR30 370Z to this new platform and helping the new Z reach an even greater level of performance!

Community Member Credit: DennisMik

I was cleaning out my garage and I came across an old radiator cooling fan motor that I had replaced on my neighbor’s 2000 Maxima. Since I had nothing better to do (which is why I was cleaning the garage), I decided to take the motor apart and document it with photos.

The motor was replaced because it was very noisy. If you grabbed the fan blade, there was lots of wobble, meaning the bearing was gone.

Photo # 1 – Front view (fan blade side).

Photo # 2 – Rear view

Photo # 3 – Motor split open.

Photo # 4 – Rear cover showing brush holders. Note that there are 4 brushes. That’s because this is a 2 speed motor that uses a dual wound armature to create 2 motors in one.

Photo # 5 – 2 of the 4 brushes. Note that the one on the left is only half the length of the other. I don’t know how long a new brush is, but I bet it would be at least 3 times the length of the brush on the right.

Photo # 6 – Front half of motor with armature in the case.

Photo # 7 – Front motor case with armature removed. There are 4 permanent magnets around the inside of the housing. It was actually fairly hard to pull the armature out of the housing. When I split the motor apart, it was full of a fine soot-like powder that was very similar to the powder you encounter when you work on brakes. Interesting difference with this power is that it was attracted to the magnets. I regret not taking a picture of the powder clinging to the magnets.

Photo # 8 – The commutator of the armature. The severe wear that the brushes caused is probably due to the fact that the rear bearing went bad and allowed the armature to wobble. You can’t tell from this picture, but the armature shaft is also worn to a smaller diameter.

This motor is not constructed to allow repairs. The case pieces are crimped together and when I did split the case open, I ripped 3 of the brushes off of their wires. There doesn’t seem to be any provision to hold the brushes retracted and fit the end plate onto the armature.


This documents purpose is to highlight the major differences between a 1990 and a 1993 Nissan Maxima.



There are 2 “versions” of the “3rd Generation” Nissan Maxima (produced from 1989-1994). There is the SE version, commonly referred to as the “sportier” version, and the GXE model, commonly referred to as the more “luxury/comfort” version of the Maxima. The differences between the GXE and SE from 1989-1991 are subtle.

    The SE has these “extra” parts:

  • foglights (optional on GXE)
  • spoiler with integrated 3rd brake light (optional on GXE)
  • white faced dash gauges (GXE gauges are black/grey)
  • 5speed option (GXE’s only come available with 4speed automatic transmission)
  • moonroof (w/optional wind visor as can be seen on 1993 example shown here)
    The GXE comes with these standard parts, not found on a standard SE:

  • electronic keypad on doors

In 1992 (through 1994), the SE models came with a different engine from the GXE. Until that time, both SE’s and GXE’s were utilizing the VG30DE engine [160bhp]. The 1992-94 SE’s utilized the VE30DE engine [190bhp], which derived it’s extra power from variable timing cams. One way of identifying a 1992-94 SE is if it has developed the “VTC problem” for which there is a Nissan issued Technical Service Bulletin. The “VTC problem” has to do with the variable timing cams and the timing chain used. Once a 1992-94 SE develops this problem, the engine develops a sound characteristic quite similar to that of a diesel engine. The noise is not always constant, it can come and go at certain RPM’s. So when a Maxima’s engine sounds like it is a diesel, it is most likely a 1992-94 SE using the VE30DE engine that has developed the “VTC problem” (the “VTC problem” usually begins to emerge around the 60K mark, though this is not always the case). [NOTE: the 1992-94 GXE’s still utilized the 160bhp VG30DE engine.]

Highlighted Differences- Exterior

There are 4 main discernable differnces on the exterior between a 1990 and a 1993 Maxima.



The 1989-1991 Maxima grill had the word “NISSAN” installed to the lower right (as viewed from the front).

The 1992-94 Maxima grill utilized the circular NISSAN logo, located in the center of the grill.



In the rear of a 1989-1991 Maxima SE, the center portion of the trunklid is black (as shown below), whereas the center portion is red on GXE models. In this center portion is the “Nissan Maxima” labelling, which is merely a sticker. Also, the clear portion of the rear fascia wraps around the side of the turn signal/brake lights.

The rear of a 1992-94 Maxima SE has a red center piece to the trunklid; the clear lenses do not “wrap” around the sides but instead terminate on the rear of the trunklid; and the “Nissan Maxima” lettering is instead chrome lettering, and is placed on the clear portion in the center of the trunklid instead of in the red area.


Other minor differnces

These differences are not as noticeable from afar, but are differences worth pointing out. Mainly, the side mirrors. On the 1989-1991 SE, the mirrors appear more integrated in to the door. Also, they are not painted the color of the body of the car, they are black.

On the 1992-94 SE’s, the side mirrors stick out a bit further from the body, and are painted the color of the body of the car.


Highlited Differences- Interior

The Steering Wheel

The 1989-91 Maxima SE steering wheel is a 4spoke design, utilizing the entire center area for the horn. Below the center portion of the steering wheel are the cruise control buttons. [Note: the 1989-91 Maxima radio area is slightly recessed, as shown in this picture.]

The 1992-94 Maxima SE steering wheel again is a 4spoke design, but the horn buttons are now located on the top two spokes of the wheel, because the car is equiped with a drivers side airbag. Also relocated are the cruise control buttons, which have been moved to the right side of the center of the wheel, between the two spokes of the steering wheel. [NOTE: the 1992-94 Maxima radio is not recessed in to the dash slightly, as in the case of the 1989-91 Maxima’s. ALSO, below the main radio head unit, there is a 2nd pull out tray, that is a full size DIN unit, that has a sliding cup holder tray within. The 1989-91 Maxima’s do not have the full size pull-out tray, nor do they have cupholders. The hazard flashers button is also recessed slightly in to the dash with the heating & air controls.]


The Dash

The 1989-1991 Maxima SE dashboard’s main difference is in the speedometer. The speedometer on the 1989-91 SE’s only goes up to 125mph. Note the slight difference in the electronic side mirror controls (see red arrow on the left side of picture). Also, the adjustment lever for the steering column (seen behind the headlight control stalk), appears to come from the actual dash in the 1989-91 Maxima.

The 1992-94 Maxima SE’s speedometer reads up to 145mph. The tachometer’s redline is 6500RPM, but there is no “gradual” red area from 6000-6500 RPM as there is on the 1989-91 Maxima tachometer. In this picture you can also see the slightly changed side mirror controls, and you can see the left side horn button on the steering wheel. Also, notice in this picture that the adjustment lever for the steering column has been moved on to the column itself (again, located behind the headlight control stalk).

Other Interior Differences

The trunk release on teh 1989-91 MAxima is on the same lever as the fuel door release, which is located to the left side of the driver, on the floor between the seat and the door sill. To open the trunk, pull up on the lever, to open the fuel door, push down on the lever.

The 1992-94 Maxima’s trunk release is a button located on the drivers door, next to the door light. Push the button to release the trunk. The fuel door release is in the same place, on the floor between the drivers seat and the door sill, but since it is a single function lever, you now pull up on the lever to release the fuel door.

In the 1989-91 Maxima’s, the center armrest cover is small, slightly under an inch in height.

In the 1992-94 Maxima, the same center armrest cover is now several inches tall.

Highlited Differences- Engine

We’ve already covered the differences in the engines for each trim level and model year, but are pictures of each. Each is easily identifiable and quite different from the other, making for a quick visual differentiation.

VG30DE 1989-91 SE’s, 1989-94 GXE’s

VE30DE 1992-94 SE’s

[Ed. Note: The strut tower bar shown on both cars is an aftermarket accessory, and is not available as a dealer installed option. The same applies for the conical shaped air filter shown on the VG30DE engine presented here.]

Should you have any further questions or comments about this page, the images contained herein, or any parts referenced within this document, please contact Jason Fobart (

Credit: la_fx35

Perform this DIY at your own risk. Please DO NOT have open flames near the gas tank and work in a well ventilated area. As your FX age, the gas gauge gradually become less accurate to the amount of gas left in the tank. This DIY will fix the gas gauge problem.

I would recommend to do this fix when your tank is close to empty to avoid fuel continually spraying out of the fuel line as you disconnect it from pump.

Tools: Pencil with eraser top, pliers, screw drivers (philips and flat), 8 mm socket and ratchet.


To begin, remove the rear seat by pulling on the black ring at the bottom edge of the seat and
lift the seat. Remove the seat and the flimsy insulation sheet.


To remove the access door to the gas pump assembly and sender, use a philips screw driver and turn the black plastic locks in the direction imprinted on the lock. I find using a pliers is much easier than a screw driver


Start with the sender unit located on the driver side rear seat. Undo the six 8 mm bolts, unplug the electrical connector, remove the fuel sender retainer ring and lift the send unit out of the tank.


Use a flat head screw driver and gently pry on the hooks to expose the part that needs to be cleaned.


In this pic the part in the red circle is dirty. The part in the green circle has already been cleaned.
To clean, using the eraser, gently rub the black deposit off the silver leads.


All clean up. Move the floater arm to the center and pop the plastic cover back on. Insert the sender unit back into tank, bolt the sender retainer ring back, plug the electrical connector back and put the access door back.

Turn the locks in the opposite direction of the imprinted arrow to lock the access door in place. I find using a pliers is much easier to turn the locks back.


Now start to work on the send unit that is attached to the fuel pump. The fuel pump is located on the passenger side rear seat. To removing the fuel line, squeeze the white tab and pull on the fuel line to separate them. There will be a little squirt of fuel when they become apart. Have some rags handy!

If your tank is full, you may need a cup/pan to catch the fuel as it will continually dripping
from the disconnected fuel line.

Unplug the electrical connector. Undo the six 8 mm bolts to remove the fuel pump retainer ring. Note, when you undo the last couple of bolts, hold the retainer ring as the fuel pump will try to pop out of the tank.


Carefully lift and work the pump assembly out of the tank. Use a flat head screw driver and gently pry on the hooks to expose the part that needs to be cleaned.


Dirty sender leads. Again using the eraser, gently rub the black deposit off the silver leads.


All clean up. Move the floater arm to the center and pop the plastic cover back on. Insert the sender unit back into tank, bolt the sender retainer ring back, plug the electrical connector back and put the access door back.

Turn the locks in the opposite direction of the imprinted arrow to lock the access door in place. I find using a pliers is much easier to turn the locks back.



Additional Photos:

The fuel pump listed at $258.


Fuel pump sender unit circuit board.


Stand alone (driver side) sender unit circuit board.






Replacement Part Numbers

  • O-ring 17342-CE800 (You need two of these)
  • Bracket 17045-1EA0A 
  • Sender 25060-1CB1C
  • Sender 25060-1CB0C 


Community  Member Credit: prostreetonline


The DTC ODBII trouble code P0335 on a VQ35, found in a Nissan 350Z, Infiniti G35, and many others is a Crank Position Sensor fault, or CKP for short. For this particular write-up we will be showing you How to Service a VQ35 Crank Position Sensor in a Infiniti G35. This sensor is a hall effect-magnetic style sensor that picks up the high and low parts of the flywheel to determine what position the crank is in.

The differences in the teeth of the flywheel provide changes in the voltage feedback given to the PCM from the crank position sensor. The P0335 DTC can be triggered by a few conditions in your VQ35, and needless to say your car will not operate correctly or even start with this DTC.

Here are the detecting condition of the DTC P0335 error code.

Where is my Crank Position sensor?

Easily the most commonly asked question in our How to Service a VQ35 Crank Position Sensor guide. The VQ35 has it’s Crank Position Sensor ( CKP ) located on the bellhousing of the transmission, and it reads the position of the crank by reading the teeth on the flywheel.


How do I know my crank position sensor is bad?

To test your crank position sensor, first raise the vehicle and locate the crank position sensor and the plug leading to it.



Now that you have located the sensor, unplug the sensor and take a look at the 3 prong weatherproof connector. Don’t forget if you need the how to on servicing your camshaft position sensor, we’ve got you covered.

First you should check the continuity of the wiring by placing the negative terminal on a ground, and then putting the lead to pin 3.


Continuity should exist here, so move on to the next step of our How to Service a VQ35 Crank Position Sensor writeup.



You can test this sensor using a voltmeter with one end connected to a chassis ground and the positive lead going to the 1 pin on the weatherproof connector.

If these 2 wires have continuity your part is more than likely damaged, as the 2nd pin is the signal wire to the PCM.



Why does my car not start?

The crankshaft position sensor is not transmitting any information to the PCM when trying to crank over your motor, without this sensor the PCM will not know how to operate the engine. This is when you will absolutely need our How to Service a VQ35 Crank Position Sensor article to get your car back on the road.

Where is the Crank Position Sensor pin on my VQ ECU?

Pin 13 is the Crankshaft Position Sensor on your VQ PCM, here is a diagram to help you test continuity should you need it.



This magnetic crank position sensor can be tested by measuring the resistance between terminal 1-2, terminal 1-3, and terminal 2 and 3.



All 3 of these combinations must measure resistance at 0 Ω or ∞, if your measurements are outside of this reading your sensor must be replaced.

Once you have the unit replaced, plug in your favorite ODDII scanner and clear the code P0335 and you are ready to rock and roll!


You have now serviced your VQ35 crank position sensor and saved yourself a lot of money in dealer labor.

Happy Driving!

Member Credit: 95naSTA

Original Source Credit:

I’m successfully running the Q45 MAF with my hybrid 3.5 swapped 98 4thgen Maxima.  You will need a 90-96 Q45 MAF which you can easily find on eBay.


  • Red – +12v
  • White – Signal
  • Black – Ground


  • Black w/ White stripe – +12v (could also be black with red stripe)
  • White – Signal
  • Black – Ground

Lightning MAF adapter will work if you re-drill it. It’s a little larger than the MAF opening but a 3.5″ coupler will still stretch over it.

The process was:

  • Chopped up a Q45 MAF with a band saw (you could use another MAF).
  • Grinded the outer edges of the MAF base to open up the radius
  • Drilled a hole big enough for the MAF in a 1′ long 4″ Dia aluminum pipe
  • Scored outline of MAF body onto the pipe
  • Sanded the inside radius of the MAF base and aluminum pipe within the scoring with 180 grit sandpaper
  • Taped off scored/sanded area on the pipe
  • Mixed up JB Weld KwikWeld, applied to to the MAF and mated it to the pipe
  • Cleaned up the edges of excess epoxy
  • Removed tape

Reference Photos:

Credit: ptatohed

I went to the “Dyno Day” at Dyno Extreme on Sunday, 03-02-08 in Stanton CA (near Knott’s Berry Farm in Buena Park) with James / The Wizard. Well, I got my highest horsepower to date! 322.76 HP and 307.82 TQ.

Last year I was around 240. So, with an 80+ HP increase, I’m quite stoked, to say the least. A HUGE thanks goes out to Jimbo “The Wizard” Ozouf for helping me crank out 3 pretty big mods in just a week before the dyno.

Total (power) mods and variables are as follows:

  • Un-tuned
  • Unless I say otherwise below, I have all OEM parts and the “stock” parts that come with the Stillen SC kit (yes this means: stock injectors, stock MAF, standard Vortech FMU with 8:1 disc, Bosch bypass valve, stock fuel pump, etc.)
  • One-step colder NGK platinum plugs gapped to 0.037”
  • 91 Octane gas
  • 13.7 lb 17” rims
  • 12.5 lb 12.2” rotors (stock are 15lb ea.)
  • Cattman cat-back
  • LSS test pipe (just for dyno and track days)
  • Warpspeed Fed Spec aluminum Y-Pipe
  • Fed Spec. left bank manifold (from Fanaticrock – thanks man!)
    (I did a CA spec –> Fed Spec left exhaust bank manifold conversion which eliminated the huge left bank pre-cat. I installed a Cattman O2 simulator for the two downstream O2 sensors)
    Vortech V2 supercharger, freshly re-built
  • 2.87” Vortech SC pulley (see boost/PSI information below)
  • Custom intake piping
  • A 5”d x 8”l PWR water to air aftercooler (barrel design) with a Bosch water pump, a Jackson Racing front-mount heat exchanger, and a Vortech ice chest/water reservoir.
  • Thermal insulation to protect the underside of the intake tubing from the exhaust manifold/engine heat.
  • 4th gen. Variable Intake set at 5200 RPMs (installed by The Wizard, the VI master)
  • Freshly rebuilt I30t VLSD automatic transmission (with Hayden #403 cooler)
  • Perma-Cool oil cooler (not sure if that results in a power increase or not, but, just in case)
  • I think that’s it. I hope I am not forgetting anything.
  • Oh, and my I30 fuzzy A, B and C pillars (good for at least 10 HP )

I have a bad memory but I think the mods that are new this time (322HP) from last time (240HP) are: one-step colder plugs, lighter rotors, Cattman catback, Fed. Spec. conversion, re-built blower (which fixed a chipped impeller blade and inlet oil leak), a few more PSI, larger PWR AC which replaced a smaller JR AC (see explanation below), 4th gen. VI, VLSD tranny with cooler, oil cooler. But I did have my fuzzy pillars last time (otherwise I would have dynoed at 230)!

As far as the boost / PSI level… Well, on the dyno I made maximum boost of 10PSI. However, I always hit 12PSI max on the street. The dyno owner/operator told me this was normal and it’s because the dyno has less of a load than the street. Huh?

I recently replaced my small 3”d x 11”l Jackson Racing (JR) water to air aftercooler (AC) with the PWR AC mentioned above. The PWR is supposed to be more efficient in cooling and result in less boost loss. I now lose 1PSI across the PWR AC where before I lost 2PSI across the JR AC. I also have a dual intake temperature gauge by Autometer. I have one probe upstream of the AC and one downstream. With my JR I would see about a 10 degree difference during idling/cruising and a max delta of 40^ during a full boost run. With the PWR I know see a 15-20^ delta when cruising and a 60^ delta during a full boost run. During the dyno, I added ice to the ice reservoir and saw a max delta of 85^!

Dyno Extreme didn’t hand out dyno graphs that day. So, excuse me for the digital camera photo of my dyno. The owner should be sending out the run files via e-mail shortly so I will post up the dyno when I get it. Also, these are the uncorrected numbers.

I’m really stoked. Two of my dreams were achieved at once: 1.) Break 300HP and 2.) Get a single-digit weight to horsepower ratio (~2900 lb / 322 HP = 9.00 LB/HP!!).

Credit: shralp

So I just took the plunge into my first tranny fluid change and took some pics. I used 5 quarts instead of flushing all of it.

Important Note: Nissan Matic J was replaced with S.


  • Nissan Matic J transmission fluid (got lucky and found some on eBay but most likely you’ll have to go to a Nissan dealer and pay $15/qt)
  • 10mm Socket
  • Bucket
  • Plyers
  • A friend to help
  • Funnel
  • Ramps/jack stands (so you can fit the bucket under)


1. Lift car and remove splash guard.

2. Remove the engine cover so you can get to the charging pipe behind the engine.



4. If you’re replacing X quarts of fluid, fill your bucket with X quarts of water and make a line at the water level. This way you’ll know when do stop draining.


5. Get all your Nissan Matic J transmission fluid opened and lined up so you or you’re friend can continuously pour. Start your engine (nothing will drain without the engine running).


6. Get under the engine with your bucket ready. You’ll be removing the smaller hose from the radiator (see picture).


7. With your plyers, squeeze the hose clamp and slide it farther up the hose.

8. Put your bucket directly below the end of the hose and get positioned so you can watch the fluid level reach the line on the inside of the bucket.

9. Pull the hose off the radiator. I used plyers on this step but it might be easier to just use your hand. TIP: JUST AS THE HOSE RELEASES FROM THE RADIATOR, GIVE IT A PINCH TO STOP THE FLUID FROM SPRAYING ALL OVER YOUR GARAGE!. Otherwise you’re garage will look like this.


10. Yell to your friend to start pouring. Aim the hose at the bucket and stop pinching. Watch the fluid fill the bucket. As soon as it reaches the line in the bucket, pinch the hose again and reconnect it to the radiator. Hopefully all the old fluid is in your bucket and not on your body/garage floor.


11. Slide the hose clamp back to the end of the hose with your plyers.

12. Turn off your engine and give your friend a high five or a kick in the nuts, depending on his performance.

13. Put the splash guard back on. Screw the dipstick bolt back into the charging pipe. Put your engine cover back on.

14. Good work, now go drink a beer and order some more mods for your FX.

Drain Plug

Checking Fluid Level

Important Notes

Actually the transmission holds 10 3/4 quarts. The 30,000 and 60,000 mile services call for a drain and fill which takes about 3 1/2 quarts to do.

OP what I would do is buy 8 quarts, drain the pan, and refill with 3 1/2 quarts. Drive 50-100 miles and repeat the process. Give the car about 1-2000 miles and repeat. That way you don’t shock the tranny all at once with new fluid. I don’t think the tranny has been hurt unless you track your car but check your fluid ASAP. If it is dark or brown and smells burnt, you probably need to ignore my first advice and take it to the dealer for a complete flush and fill.

The tranny fluid is Nissan S-Matic, it replaced the J-Matic and is the only transmission fluid recommended for our engines.


I had my tranny fluid changed last month. Me and my buddy did it with the car on the hoist. We used the drain plug on the tranny oil pan. Drained out about 4~6 qts. Then we filled another 4 ~ 6 qts back to the oil pan (depending on how much you drain out). The turn on the engine, with the brake on, shifting from P to R, to D, then D to R to P, each gear stays about the 20 secs to let the new fluid to mix out with the old fluid. Then we did the process again. After that test drive the car in manual mode for about 10 mins. Then measure the fluid level. If not enough, then top out from the tranny dip stick tube with a thin tube funnel.

I do my tranny fluid change about every 30k miles. The car is running fine, no issue with the tranny.


Credit: freezer

I dug into the cluster to try and figure out why the gauge was off. All the resistors to the fuel level sensor checked out OK but apparently the joints to the board can crack causing intermittent or permanent problems. Re-soldering the joints on the 4 resistors should solve the problem of the fuel gauge reading too high.

The resistors are R4, R64, R124, and R125. They are directly below the cluster part number in the attached picture.

Credit: la_fx35


Remove the battery compartment cover and crowl top cover to access the IPDM.




Lay some rag over the batter terminals so that your IPDM cover won’t be all scratched up and to protect the wires from sharp edges on the battery terminals.

Remove the IPDM, reach behind the IPDM and squeeze the two tabs toward the front of the car and lift it from the bracket.


Remove the IPDM cover, use a small flat head screwdriver and lightly pry the tabs up while you pull the cover away from it.


Remove the IPDM from it backing bracket, carefully work the wire bundle out of the guide tabs at the bottom of the backing bracket. Spread the two tabs on top of the backing bracket and then pull up to take the IPDM internal off the backing bracket.