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myInfiniti

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Community Member Credit: fxlr8

MATERIALS:

TOOLS:

  • PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER

SAFETY

  • EVEN IF THIS PROCEDURE DOES NOT REQUIRE RAISING OF THE VEHICLE, WE CANNOT STRESS ENOUGH…NEVER GET UNDER A RAISED VEHICLE WITHOUT THE USE OF QUALITY JACK-STANDS

1. REMOVE THE DOOR SILL BY PULLING UP AND UN-POPPING THE CLIPS.

2. UNSCREW THIS PLASTIC NUT AND REMOVE THE SIDE PLASTIC PANEL. THE PLASTIC NUT SHOULD COME OFF BY HAND, IF NOT USE A WRENCH.

3. LOOK UNDER THE GLOVE-BOX AND REMOVE THIS PLASTIC PANEL, PULL DOWN ON THE FRONT AND IT WILL UNCLIP.

4. USING YOUR PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER UNSCREW THESE 2 PHILLIPS SCREWS UNDER THE GLOVE BOX.

5. OPEN YOUR GLOVEBOX AND UNSCREW THESE 4 SCREWS.

6. YOUR GLOVEBOX SHOULD NOW COME OFF (DISCONNECT ANY WIRES NECESSARY – DO NOT DISCONNECT THE YELLOW AIR BAG PLUG/WIRE).

7. TO REMOVE THE FILTER YOU WILL PUSH ON THIS TAB TO RELEASE THE FILTER COVER.

8. PULL OUT THE OLD FILTER.

9. INSTALL YOUR FILTER **(NOTE THE DIRECTION OF AIR FLOW ON THE NEW FILTER – THE AIR FLOWS DOWNARDS IN OUR CARS, SO MAKE SURE YOU INSTALL YOUR FILTER PROPERLY).

NOTE: WHEN PUTTING THE FILTER COVER (DOOR) BACK ON YOU WILL NEED TO LIFT THE FILTER UP WHILE CLOSING THE COVER, THE DOOR HAS TABS ON IT AND THE FILTER NEEDS TO SIT ABOVE THESE TABS.

Community Member Credit: Eddy

I just installed this little LED Battery Voltage Display Reader on my Infiniti FX35. In order to test or check the battery, you normally have to pop open the plastic cover for it. This makes it easier for me to check the actual battery itself and confirm the voltage reading.

Description: 12V 24V Digital LED Display Voltmeter Voltage Gauge Panel Meter Car Motorcycle
Price: $8.00
Order Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-24V-Digital-LED-Display-Voltmeter-Voltage-Gauge-Panel-Meter-Car-Motorcycle/112243510428

Community Member Credit: Eddy

I started having issues with my rear trunk latch life gate on my 2004 Infiniti FX35. It just wouldn’t open. For some time, I was just removing the trunk 15A fuse where it would reset the latch. It would eventually open. But this ultimately got worse. I got tired of taking the fuse in and out whenever I wanted to open the trunk. Also, I really didn’t want to spend $100+ bucks on the part to fix it, so I figured I’d try whatever was out there.

So I tried the solution in this write-up. I won’t take all the credit because I found some info on one of the FX35 forums (member Jim Lee). It took me about 20-30 minutes to do and WOW, everything works again. It’s been a few days now and all works fine. Basically, you turn your motor back to brand new again by following this how-to. The motor has something called a ‘commutator’. It needs to be super clean. When I took my motor out, it was very dirty and black. It is the common issue of the brushed motor. You can Google “Commutator” to learn more about it. 

Update 4/9/2021: This officially resolved my issue. All is good and saved me a bunch of $$$. 

Commutator Reference Photo:

Summary: I would recommend try this how-to. It will save you a lot of money and it’s very simple to do. The part is about $100 bucks and labor may be another $100 bucks. This was FREE to me and just took 20 minutes of my time. Plus you learn a little about how these things work.

Nissan OEM Part Replacement Information

If you are looking to just replace and not attempt this how-to, below is the information you need to order the correct part for your FX35. Please cross-check the part number to ensure it works for your generation FX35.

Part Description: Motor-Closure, Back Door
Part Number: 90554-AQ000
Price: $124.03

This video below will show you how to remove the plastic covers to expose and take out the latch motor.

How to Fix and Clean Motor “Commutator”:

Original Photo Credit: Jim Lee via FX Forums

After doing the above and taking out the motor, you can follow the steps below:

Take off the 3 screws on the motor.

Pull the shaft out of the housing.

Simply use a terry cloth rag and apply some elbow grease back and forth to clean it.

These were actual pictures of my FX35. You can see how dirty it was as seen above. You can see the green cloth I used.

After cleaning it, it looks like this. Literally brand new again!

Put everything back together. AND NOW EVERYTHING WORKS AGAIN! Before I would have to take out the trunk fuse in order to reset it and hoped it opened. Now it opens consistently with no issues at!!

Motor Reference Photos:

Article: EddyMaxx

Over the past few months, our FX35 started to experience some odd behavior. When scanning the car for codes it would throw  U1001 – Invalid or Missing Data for Primary Id. I noticed this happened about a week after a major rain day that ended up clogging and filling water inside the car (primarily driver side seat). I had to drain all the water out as it was like a little mini-pool. This is what I think caused the issue in the first place. So I sealed the area where I think the car would leak from on roof with silicone. I’m also going to check and clear the sunroof drain ports as this is a common problem with FX35. The car itself would actually drive OK but some issues were very risky such as driving with no wipers in case it rain or no AC in 100 degree weather.

I started searching online and couldn’t not find much helpful info. In fact, most threads that had a similar issue never posted an update on how it was resolved. Each day I did more research to try to find the fix. Randomly, I was watching a YouTube video on CEL Code U1000 and U1001. I happen to find a comment by user “Staten Island Euro Tech” on YouTube that put me in the right direction and helped resolve the issue. So I have to give credit to that user for helping me resolve this. Not only did I save a ton of $$$$$, I also learned a lot in the process. If you are reading this, hopefully this helps you resolve the issue. You can post a comment using FB below for any questions or comments.

Below is the list of the issues:

  • No Air Conditioning (AC Compressor Would Not Kick On)
  • Front Wipers would Not Work
  • Fans would come on and stay on once car was started
  • Headlights would come on and you could not turn them off
  • No High Beam
  • No Fogs Lights
  • CEL Code U1001 – Invalid or Missing Data for Primary Id

Order of things I did to troubleshoot:

  • When this first happened, I thought it was the wiper motor. So I bought a used one off eBay and it did not change anything. $40 Bucks
  • I bought a used IPDM because after reading about it, I thought this could be potentially the problem. Did not change anything. $80 Bucks
  • Replaced BCM and no difference. Issue still persisted. You also need to program this unit to your ECU. I have Nissan Datascan II to do this so it was pretty quick $80 Bucks
  • I almost bought an ECU but decided not to because the drive drove fine. My next step was to find all the ECU ground and sand them down. I didn’t do it but I will just to be proactive. Read a lot about re-sanding the grounding points online.
  • FINALLY!! Found a solid pointer to resolving the issue via YouTube video. I fixed the wires under the driver seat and finally resolved the issues. Overall, I spent $200 bucks on parts I did not need. I will either keep them as spares or put on eBay. I may very likely keep them as these are parts that are getting more difficult to find in good condition on eBay. But technically if you find this video just in time, it will cost you almost ZERO dollars to fix.

The Fix and Solution

You need to remove the driver side seat and lift the carpet. It’s literally just four 14MM bolts. Then you need to unplug the connector for seat and SRS airbag light. The airbag light will flash after this, so you need to perform the reset procedure which you can also find on YouTube. Very easy to do.

Underneath the carpet you will see two sets of wires under and insulated cap. 3 Red wires and 3 blue wires. Remove the cap and you will see all the wires are broken and corroded. You need to unify them together again.

You can see how badly the wires were corroded.

This is just to show how much of the carpet I needed to lift in order to find this. I also took the time to vacuum and clean up the carpet area. I don’t remember when was the last time this was done.

This entire area was flooded with water and this is what I think caused the corrosion and wires to break. I did add silicone around the windshield to stop more water from coming in.

Re-splice the wires together and secure them. Once you do this try testing out your wipers to ensure they work. If they do, then you can proceed them tightening everything up and cleaning the area.

All set. Feels good to have resolved this.

Video Explanation I Put Together

 

Sunroof Drain – Helpful video that may trigger the water clogging up your interior.

Back in Action

Community Member Credit: angryfx

1- Take the 6 clips out of the grill.

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2- The grill is now free but there are 4 clips that are attached towards the radiator that you use
a plier to take out…. close up of the clip…

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3-the holes were where the clips were held in place to the bumper.

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4-the headlights are held by 4 screws. 2 on top and 2 at thhe bottom… one behind the front bumper
and the other behind the wheel wells.

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5-to remove the bumper you will have to remove 10-15 bolts depending on how many you have under the car
by the bottom plastic cover… but you have to remove 2 screws that hold the bumper to the fender…on each side..

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hard to get a nice pic so these are some supporting pics..
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6- once you unbolt these 2 bolts then you will see that the bumper will kinda wobble… they are still
held in place by 2 clips right under the headlight housing… if you pull the bumper you will see them.

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7- when pulling on them be careful i broke 1 of the clips but when putting them back in i found it
not to be bi issue with just 1 clip instead of 2 but still be careful…

8- with the bumper off or hanging by 1 or 2 screws at the bottom… you can now access the bolt under
the headlight. this shoul be the last bolt to remove… unplug all th electrical harnesses/wiring…
take em out gently…

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9- once you take the headlights out you can now exchange the ballast (3 screws) held in under the headlight.
and the light bulbs..(unclip the metal pin and take the bulbs out..

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this is the ballast ( i didnt know until today)

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now take the silver holder out by twistin like a regular bulb

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you will see the rear side of the bulb

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unclip thes metal sprins by pushing them with your thumb n finger n open the latch….

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10- do it to the other side and put the bulbs and the ballasts back in …..

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11- if you are going to do DTRL SWAP now is the time …. cut the black wire cover tape

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12- i used a nipper to cut the tabs because i was lazy…

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13 – please refer to dtrl swap thread for more info if you have any question.

14 – put headlight back in and connect all the wires

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15 – put the bumper back in …..

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16 – PUT GRILL BACK IN AND CHECK THE LIGHT TO SEE OR OF THEM ARE WORKING WELL CLEAN AFTER
YOUR MESS AND FEEL GOOD DONE!!!!

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Video:

Reference photo of the VQ35DE Engine Firing Order for the Infiniti. Very helpful when it comes to diagnosing P030x CEL Codes.

If you have a CEL for random misfire, below the common codes.

  • P0300 (Random Misfire)
  • P0301 (Cylinder 1 Misfire)
  • P0302 (Cylinder 2 Misfire)
  • P0303 (Cylinder 3 Misfire)
  • P0304 (Cylinder 4 Misfire)
  • P0305 (Cylinder 5 Misfire)
  • P0306 (Cylinder 6 Misfire)

Community Member Credit: R&D Factory

Here are DIY instructions on how to replace the OEM seals on your Nissan VQ engine.

At R&D Factory, we service many Nissans and Infiniti’s daily and run into the same valve cover/spark plug o-ring leak. About 75% of the vehicles that we serve have the same problems. Even though it’s money out of customer’s pocket after spending so much money on these valve covers we were thinking there has to be a way to cut the cost so here we are. R&D has come out the kit will come with both driver and passenger side valve cover gasket, six o-ring gaskets, and simple instructions on how to replace them. Your warranty should and will cover leaking valve cover o-rings grommets. we do advise you to check for a leak before your warranty is over…. the whole idea of us making these o-rings grommets were for those who have leaking o-rings grommets yet their warranty is already over. We do drill out the old o-ring grommets with the hole saw size 2 inch. It is slightly bigger than the existing hole and slightly smaller than the o-ring

Part Needed

$75 for 6 Grommets (O-ring gasket)

$120 for 6 Grommets (O-ring gasket) and OEM valve cover gaskets (both side), PCV Valve o-ring

Instructions

1- THIS IS A SIMPLE HOLE SAW (SIZE 1 7/8 INCH) THAT YOU CAN BUY FROM MOST HARDWARE STORE. WE GOT OURS FROM ACE HARDWARE AND IT WAS $7-11

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2- THIS IS HOW YOUR VALVE COVER LOOKS WHEN YOU TAKE IT OFF OF YOUR ENGINE

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NOTE PICTURE SHOWN MOST LEFT SPARK PLUG HOLE DRILLED.

3- WARNING “PLEASE DO NOT REMOVE BAFFLE PLATE” WARNING

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4- POSITION THE HOLE-SAW CONCENTRIC TO SPARKPLUG HOLE AND DRILL BAFFLE PLATE SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY.

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5- YOU WILL ONLY NEED TO DRILL JUST ENOUGH TO DRILL THROUGH THE BAFFLE PLATE (WE CLEANED UP ALL THE DEBRIS TO SHOW YOU CLEAR PICTURE DRILL ALL 6 POSITIONS AND CLEAN OFF DEBRIS WHEN DONE.

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6- NOW YOU WILL BE ABLE TO POP OUT THE OLD O-RING GROMMET OUT OF THE VALVE COVER. PLEASE REPEAT 6 TIMES.

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7- THIS IS WHAT IT WOULD LOOK LIKE WITH THE O-RING GROMMET OUT

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8- USE BLACK RTV SILICONE ON TOP SIDE OF THE NEW O-RING GROMMET (WE USED CLEAR ON OUR DEMO PICTURE SO YOU CAN SEE BETTER)

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9- PLACE THE NEW O-RING GASKET IN TO THE HOLE. NOW YOU ARE READY TO RE-INSTALL YOUR VALVE COVER GASKET TO YOUR ENGINE.

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Video:

Community Member Credit: BULL

Hello everyone, I put this together to help others out when doing timing in these engines. As great as this engine is, internally it has some life-threatening issues that will decrease it longevity if not addressed.
These are in the timing chain area: Gallery gasket, Chain tensioners and guides

Note: Most will adopt the mentality of marking the removal and repeat the install and this is a great idea. Unfortunately this wont work for all. Turning the engine until all marks are aligned can be a waste of time due to the many times it might require and removal and resetting might just be the easiest.

Here are some simple picture explicit ways of how to double check your work. You can start by aligning the damper with this timing mark in the cover, if doubtful about the crank cog you can use the this method as confirmation

Once timing cover is loosened and removed you’ll be left with this view. As you all can see my gasket has broken.

Then after everything comes off

To make sure your cams are aligned the pin need will align with the indentation in the cam girdle like so:

I learned that even that it had 120k miles this had happened: I had no suspicion of this nor heard any noise.

This job can be expensive to do. How expensive is entirely up to you.
to fix these the proper way OEM tensioners are a $120 + option that requires the removal of the camshafts girdle and removal of the VVEL Eccentric shaft that I had no interest in doing. With the VQ40 nissan sells replacement cam shoes but not for the VQ37 . The plunger part of the tensioner does not go bad so soon.

The plunger/Shoe from a VQ35 DE is the same part and can interchange. These parts are $27 for the pair. The shoe appears to be made from the same material of the OEM one so I’ll check it again in 100k miles

I painted the marks and between the FSM and other pictures I was able to find I confirmed. Final result was the start.

Remember:
Circle dots are for Bank 1
Oval dots are for Bank 2

These you will align with the two orange links on the cam chain, the single chain link with meet the oval mark on the VTC for bank 2 and circle on the VTC for bank 1

There are 3 ways to verify the crank, with the Damper like the first pic showed, aligning the crank tooth with the mark on the pump and with the chain’s orange link and the mark at 5 o clock on the cog.

Make sure you leave NO tension on the untensioned sides of the chain as any looseness can alter timing.

The last tension you should pull the pin from is the main cam, check tension and if it’s too loose use a bar to click the tensioner over one click

LOCK MODE FUNCTION
When the starting operation is carried out five or more times consecutively under the following conditions, IVIS
(NATS) will shift the mode to one which prevents the engine from being started.

– Unregistered ignition key is used.
– IMMU or ECM’s malfunctioning.

ESCAPE FROM LOCK MODE

1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. Turn ignition switch ON with registered key. (Do not start engine.) Wait 5 seconds.
3. Return the key to OFF position.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 twice (total of three cycles).
5. Start the engine.