Category

myInfiniti

Category

Credit: Chris M. Climaco

Specs:

  • Front Wheel/Tire: 20×9.5 +45 (235/35/20)
  • Rear Wheel/Tire: 20×10.5 +25 (255/30/20)
  • Suspension: AirLift 3H with Prazis Air Suspension
  • Spacers: 25MM Front Only

Credit: la_fx35

Perform this DIY at your own risk. Please DO NOT have open flames near the gas tank and work in a well ventilated area. As your FX age, the gas gauge gradually become less accurate to the amount of gas left in the tank. This DIY will fix the gas gauge problem.

I would recommend to do this fix when your tank is close to empty to avoid fuel continually spraying out of the fuel line as you disconnect it from pump.

Tools: Pencil with eraser top, pliers, screw drivers (philips and flat), 8 mm socket and ratchet.

001.jpg

To begin, remove the rear seat by pulling on the black ring at the bottom edge of the seat and
lift the seat. Remove the seat and the flimsy insulation sheet.

002.jpg

To remove the access door to the gas pump assembly and sender, use a philips screw driver and turn the black plastic locks in the direction imprinted on the lock. I find using a pliers is much easier than a screw driver

003.jpg

Start with the sender unit located on the driver side rear seat. Undo the six 8 mm bolts, unplug the electrical connector, remove the fuel sender retainer ring and lift the send unit out of the tank.

004.jpg

Use a flat head screw driver and gently pry on the hooks to expose the part that needs to be cleaned.

005.jpg

In this pic the part in the red circle is dirty. The part in the green circle has already been cleaned.
To clean, using the eraser, gently rub the black deposit off the silver leads.

006.jpg

All clean up. Move the floater arm to the center and pop the plastic cover back on. Insert the sender unit back into tank, bolt the sender retainer ring back, plug the electrical connector back and put the access door back.

Turn the locks in the opposite direction of the imprinted arrow to lock the access door in place. I find using a pliers is much easier to turn the locks back.

007.jpg

Now start to work on the send unit that is attached to the fuel pump. The fuel pump is located on the passenger side rear seat. To removing the fuel line, squeeze the white tab and pull on the fuel line to separate them. There will be a little squirt of fuel when they become apart. Have some rags handy!

If your tank is full, you may need a cup/pan to catch the fuel as it will continually dripping
from the disconnected fuel line.

Unplug the electrical connector. Undo the six 8 mm bolts to remove the fuel pump retainer ring. Note, when you undo the last couple of bolts, hold the retainer ring as the fuel pump will try to pop out of the tank.

008.jpg

Carefully lift and work the pump assembly out of the tank. Use a flat head screw driver and gently pry on the hooks to expose the part that needs to be cleaned.

009.jpg

Dirty sender leads. Again using the eraser, gently rub the black deposit off the silver leads.

010.jpg

All clean up. Move the floater arm to the center and pop the plastic cover back on. Insert the sender unit back into tank, bolt the sender retainer ring back, plug the electrical connector back and put the access door back.

Turn the locks in the opposite direction of the imprinted arrow to lock the access door in place. I find using a pliers is much easier to turn the locks back.

011.jpg

FuelGaugeDiag_zpsc23b5c05.jpg

Additional Photos:

The fuel pump listed at $258.

015.jpg

Fuel pump sender unit circuit board.

014.jpg

Stand alone (driver side) sender unit circuit board.

013.jpg

Before:

IMG_20110808_195518.jpg

After:

IMG_20110808_212029.jpg

Replacement Part Numbers

  • O-ring 17342-CE800 (You need two of these)
  • Bracket 17045-1EA0A 
  • Sender 25060-1CB1C
  • Sender 25060-1CB0C 

 

Owner: Rob Tilley

Year: 2005
Model: FX45
Color: Red
Engine: VK56
Transmission: Automatic

Notes:

  • 11.48 1/4 Track Time (Weighing 4500lbs)
  • 1 First and 1 Second Place Dirt Drag Finishes

Videos:

Mod List:

  • 2010 VK56 Engine
  • 6.1 Hemi Long Tube Headers w/ 5.6 Flanges
  • Dual 3″ Exhaust Dual Magnaflow Mufflers
  • Vortech V1 @10psi w/ Custom Bracket
  • Custom Oil Pan and Motor Mounts to Hold the AWD Differential
  • Transgo Shift Kit w/ Large Transmission Cooler
  • Engine Oil cooler
  • 2006 MET Intake Manifold with Adapter Flanges
  • Volvo Electric Power Steering Conversion
  • Air-Water Cooler with BMW Electric Water Pump
  • 350z LSD with Extra Pack Shim
  • Custom Delrin Subframe/Rear Control Arm and Diff Bushings with Custom Output
  • Adapters for the Larger FX45 Axles
  • 14″ FX50 rotors w/ 4-Piston Mercedes Calipers
  • Audi R8 Coil Packs
  • 60lb Injectors/ Walbro 440LPH
  • Uprev-Tuned
  • XXR 20×9.5 Front and 20×11 Rears

Community Member Credit: fxlr8

PROCEDURE WAS DONE ON MY 2008 M45. PROCEDURE SHOULD BE SIMILAR ON MOST INFINITI VEHICLES. MAKE SURE TO CHECK YOUR OWNERS MANUAL FOR PROPER FLUID SPECS AND CAPACITIES.

TOOLS:

  • JACK STANDS
  • JACK
  • 10MM HEX SOCKET
  • SOCKET WRENCH
  • TORQUE WRENCH (FT/LBS)
  • BREAKER BAR (IF NEEDED)

SUPPLIES:

  • 2 (QUART) BOTTLES DIFFERENTIAL GEAR OIL (75W-90 SYNTHETIC IS WHAT I USED)
  • FLUID PUMP
  • DRAIN PAN
  • RAGS

SAFETY:

  • NEVER GET UNDER A CAR WITHOUT OUT QUALITY JACKSTANDS OR RAMPS IN PLACE. NEVER EVER GET UNDER A CAR ONLY RAISED AND SUPPORTED WITH A JACK.

PROCEDURE:

LIFT AND SUPPORT ALL 4 CORNERS OF YOUR VEHICLE WITH JACKSTANDS. YOU WANT TO KEEP THE THE CAR AS LEVEL AS POSSIBLE SO YOU WILL BE ABLE TO PUMP IN THE CORRECT AMOUNT OF FLUID INTO THE DIFFERENTIAL.

LOOSEN AND REMOVE THE TOP FILLER PLUG FIRST (YOU’LL WANT TO REMOVE THE FILLER PLUG FIRST SO YOU CAN BE SURE THAT YOU WILL BE ABLE TO FILL UP THE DIFFERENTIAL AFTER THE FLUID IS DRAINED).

2.jpg

LOOSEN THE DRAIN PLUG. ALIGN YOUR PAN UNDER THE DIFFERENTIAL AND REMOVE THE PLUG.

3.jpg

LET THE FLUID DRAIN COMPLETELY.

4.jpg

AFTER THE FLUID DRAINS, CLEAN THE DRAIN PLUG AND REINSTALL THE DRAIN PLUG. TIGHTEN THE DRAIN PLUG TO 25FT/LBS.

5.jpg

7.jpg

GRAB YOUR FLUID AND PUMP AND FILL YOUR DIFFERENTIAL UNTIL THE FLUID STARTS COMING OUT OF THE FILLER HOLE. YOU MIGHT HAVE SOME FLUID COMING OUT SLOWLY THE WHOLE TIME YOU ARE PUMPING, BUT IT WILL NOT BE FULL UNTIL IT IS COMING OUT PRETTY GOOD (AROUND 1.7 QUARTS).

6.jpg

AFTER THE FLUID IS LEVEL WITH AND COMING OUT OF THE FILLER HOLE PUT BACK THE FILLER PLUG AND TIGHTEN TO 25FT/LBS.

8.jpg

CLEAN UP ANY FLUID THAT YOU SPILLED, ESPECIALLY OFF THE EXHAUST PIPES.

DONE!

MY CAR HAD AROUND 39,000 ON IT, NOT SURE IF THE FLUID WAS EVER CHANGED BEFORE I DID IT.
OLD FLUID ON LEFT / NEW FLUID ON RIGHT.

P1050367.jpg

Community Member Credit: smijus

So I was having some cold start problem. I knew that my battery was good so I did some research and it seemed like the AC Amplifier was the best culprit. So here is the process of replacing the AC Amplifier.

First off, the AC Amplifier is the most expensive plastic box that I’ve ever bought and this is what it looks like.

The only explanation I could find was that the AC amp gathers climate information( outside temp, humidity, etc), sends it to the ECU and that determines the fuel/air mix on start up.

2003-2005 FX35 / FX45

Part Number: 27760-CG000, 27760-CG700, 27760-CL000, 27760-CL01A
Part Description: AMPLIFIER – CONTROL, AIR CONDITIONER
Price: $650.97

 2006-2008 FX35 / FX45

Part Number: 27760-8Y71A
Part Description: AMPLIFIER – CONTROL, AIR CONDITIONER
Price: $650.97

P1000587_zps45457d03.jpg

There are three cable connections at the back of the unit.

P1000588_zps7c018c67.jpg

The AC Amplifier sits immediately behind the AC Controls under the main display stack in the middle of the dashboard.

To replace your AC Amplifier, do the following:

1. Take a plastic pry tool or something non-scratching and slowly pry around the bezel of the center display panel.

P1000586_zpse3f94515.jpg

2. You’ll need to slowly make your way around the entire bezel until it starts to pry up, before you pull the center stack out, there are two cables that need to be disconnected. One white connector, seen here from the bottom.

P1000585_zpscd16d916.jpg

…and one black ribbon cable seen here from the passengers side.

P1000583_zpsd1e675d2.jpg

Once these cables are disconnected, you can remove the entire center stack and set aside for the time being.

3. You will now see the guts of your center stack, and the AC Amplifier, the gray plastic box at the bottom. You will need a Philips head screwdriver to remove the 4 screws holding the center stack in place.

P1000582_zpsdbf45088.jpg

4. Now you can pull the entire center stack slightly out of place so you can access the 2 Philips head screws that hold the AC Amplifier in place. There is one on either side of the unit, remove them both.

P1000578_zps77b26a69.jpg

5. Once these two screws are out, you should be able to pop the box out of place and more easily access the 3 cables at the rear of the AC Amplifier.

P1000580_zps44eadfbd.jpg

6. Remove the three connectors, replace with the new AC Amplifier and reconnect the 3 cable assemblies.

7. Put the AC Amplifier back into place and return the screw on either side of the unit.

8. Slide the Center Stack back into place and return the 4 mounting screws back into place.

9. Before returning the faceplate, re-attach the white cable and the black ribbon cable.

10. Place the bezel back into place and slowly push firmly around the entire outside of the bezel, you’ll feel the face click back into place.

11. Start up your car and go through all of the functions on the center stack to ensure that everything still works.

12. You’re all done.

Owner: Philly Rillin

Year: 2008
Model: G35
Color: Black
Trim: S
Engine: VQ35HR
Transmission: 6-Speed Manual

Videos:

Mod List:

  • Custom Turbo Kit (Home Built)
  • Comp 6265 (Oil Less, Water Cooled)
  • GTHAUS Exhaust
    350z Track Wheels
  • 1 Piece Aluminum Driveshaft
  • Z1 2 Piece Rotors
  • 1300 Injectors
  • 485 Walbro Pump
  • Seibon Carbon Fiber Hood
  • GTR Style Halo Tail Lights
  • Custom Oil Catch Can
  • Southbend Stage 5 Clutch/Zspeed Lightweight Flywheel
  • Innovate Boost Controller
  • Z1 Oil Pan Spacer
  • Solid Diff Bushings
  • Solid Rear Control Arm Bushings
  • Solid Rear Subframe Bushings
  • Solid Rear Knuckle Bushings
  • Polyuthrane Transmission Mount
  • Hotchkis Front and Rear Sway Bars
  • D2 Racing Coilovers
  • 13 Row Oil Cooler
  • 3.91 Final Drive Gear Set
  • Z1 Toe, Camber, Traction Arms
  • Low Temp Thermostat
  • Solid Motor Mounts
  • Nisformance 3″ Intakes
  • Ported Upper and Lower Intake Manifolds
  • NST Lightweight Crank and Alternator Pulleys
  • Short Throw Shifter

Owner: Carlos Armijo

Year: 1998
Model: Infiniti i30
Color: ET1 Autumn Bronze Pear
Transmission: 4-Speed Automatic
Trim: Standard

Mod List:

  • JIC Magic Coilovers
  • Rear Stillen Sway Bar
  • Stillen Front Upper Strut Bar
  • Generic Rear Strut Bar
  • Stillen Pop Charger
  • 18″ 962 Sportmaxx Wheels (8.5 Front / 9.5 Rear +35 offset)
  • Brembo Junior GT BBK with 2-Piece Rotors
  • Cefiro Honey Comb Grill
  • Iconic Rear Window Spoiler
  • Home-made Fiberglass Eye Lids
  • Weather Tech Window Visors

Credit: shralp

So I just took the plunge into my first tranny fluid change and took some pics. I used 5 quarts instead of flushing all of it.

Important Note: Nissan Matic J was replaced with S.

THINGS YOU’LL NEED:

  • Nissan Matic J transmission fluid (got lucky and found some on eBay but most likely you’ll have to go to a Nissan dealer and pay $15/qt)
  • 10mm Socket
  • Bucket
  • Plyers
  • A friend to help
  • Funnel
  • Ramps/jack stands (so you can fit the bucket under)

STEPS:

1. Lift car and remove splash guard.

2. Remove the engine cover so you can get to the charging pipe behind the engine.

P7280226.jpg

P7280228.jpg

4. If you’re replacing X quarts of fluid, fill your bucket with X quarts of water and make a line at the water level. This way you’ll know when do stop draining.

P7280229.jpg

5. Get all your Nissan Matic J transmission fluid opened and lined up so you or you’re friend can continuously pour. Start your engine (nothing will drain without the engine running).

P7280232.jpg

6. Get under the engine with your bucket ready. You’ll be removing the smaller hose from the radiator (see picture).

P7280231.jpg

7. With your plyers, squeeze the hose clamp and slide it farther up the hose.

8. Put your bucket directly below the end of the hose and get positioned so you can watch the fluid level reach the line on the inside of the bucket.

9. Pull the hose off the radiator. I used plyers on this step but it might be easier to just use your hand. TIP: JUST AS THE HOSE RELEASES FROM THE RADIATOR, GIVE IT A PINCH TO STOP THE FLUID FROM SPRAYING ALL OVER YOUR GARAGE!. Otherwise you’re garage will look like this.

P7280234.jpg

10. Yell to your friend to start pouring. Aim the hose at the bucket and stop pinching. Watch the fluid fill the bucket. As soon as it reaches the line in the bucket, pinch the hose again and reconnect it to the radiator. Hopefully all the old fluid is in your bucket and not on your body/garage floor.

P7280235.jpg

11. Slide the hose clamp back to the end of the hose with your plyers.

12. Turn off your engine and give your friend a high five or a kick in the nuts, depending on his performance.

13. Put the splash guard back on. Screw the dipstick bolt back into the charging pipe. Put your engine cover back on.

14. Good work, now go drink a beer and order some more mods for your FX.

Drain Plug

Checking Fluid Level

Important Notes

Actually the transmission holds 10 3/4 quarts. The 30,000 and 60,000 mile services call for a drain and fill which takes about 3 1/2 quarts to do.

OP what I would do is buy 8 quarts, drain the pan, and refill with 3 1/2 quarts. Drive 50-100 miles and repeat the process. Give the car about 1-2000 miles and repeat. That way you don’t shock the tranny all at once with new fluid. I don’t think the tranny has been hurt unless you track your car but check your fluid ASAP. If it is dark or brown and smells burnt, you probably need to ignore my first advice and take it to the dealer for a complete flush and fill.

The tranny fluid is Nissan S-Matic, it replaced the J-Matic and is the only transmission fluid recommended for our engines.

—————————————

I had my tranny fluid changed last month. Me and my buddy did it with the car on the hoist. We used the drain plug on the tranny oil pan. Drained out about 4~6 qts. Then we filled another 4 ~ 6 qts back to the oil pan (depending on how much you drain out). The turn on the engine, with the brake on, shifting from P to R, to D, then D to R to P, each gear stays about the 20 secs to let the new fluid to mix out with the old fluid. Then we did the process again. After that test drive the car in manual mode for about 10 mins. Then measure the fluid level. If not enough, then top out from the tranny dip stick tube with a thin tube funnel.

I do my tranny fluid change about every 30k miles. The car is running fine, no issue with the tranny.