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Azara Wheel Collection Gallery

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allGens

Changing Manual Transmission Fluid using Fluid Pump (Same for Nissan Maxima)

Write-up: Changing Manual Transmission Fluid

I changed my tranny fluid, it was VERY easy. In fact, easier than changing the motor oil (stupid socket won’t fit over the bolt on the oil pan because the ATTS unit is blocking it).

Anyway here goes.

Tools required:

tools

-3 quarts manual transmission fluid (get 3 in case you need more)
-3/8″ drive socket wrench
-17mm socket
-Small attachment pump for the fluid bottles
-Drain plug washer (94109-14000)
-Filler plug washer (94109-20000)
-Something to catch the oil
-Torque wrench (optional but recommended)
-Jack/jack stands

The tranny is located near the front passenger wheel. Here is the pump I used, it was 2.99 from kragen:

pump

Step 1:
Jack up the car. Make sure the car is completely level when raised (4 jack stands recommended). The reason for this is to know how much you fluid you have filled up).

Step 2:
Remove the filler plug.
Use a 17mm socket.
A little bit of fluid should start dripping out.

drain and fill holes

Step 3:
Remove the drain plug.
As you can see from the picture, the bolt is a little square shaped, a 3/8″ socket wrench will fit right in. Remove it. Be careful, the oil will squirt out pretty far (same with motor oil).

drain and fill holes

Step 4:
Replace the washers on both bolts.

drain and fill bolts

Step 5: Let the trans drain.

drain

Step 6: Put the DRAIN bolt back on, torque it to 39 N-m (29ft-lb).

Step 7: Attach the pump.

attach pump

Step 8: Route the tube to the filler hole, pump away!

pump mtf

Step 9:
Continue to pump until filler hole has fluid running out. Stop pumping. Let the remaining fluid drip out.

Manual states:
2.2 US qt at oil change, 2.3 US qt at overhaul for type-SH models
2.0 US qt at oil change, 2.1 US qt at overhaul for base models

Step 9:
Put the FILLER plug back on. Tighten it to 44 N-m (33 lb-ft).

**FYI, you can also fill the transmission through the breather hole on top of the transmission, underneath the air box.
That’s all!

— This write up courtesy of Ludatic —

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my4thgen 95-99

4thgen Nissan Maxima Drive Train and Braking Mods

Community Member Credit: JSutter

I’ve been slacking on sharing my progress. Here’s a list of what I have been working on.

  • Pacesetter short-throw shifter
  • Unorthodox Racing underdrive pulley
  • Fidanza lightweight flywheel #143991
  • Exedy stage 1 clutch # 06803A
  • 2001 VLSD transmission
  • Stainless steel clutch hose
  • 6th gen PowerStop OE front brake kit (Z16)
  • New rear rotors, new calipers, PowerStop pads (Z23)

Shifter went in surprisingly smooth. All the bolts came out easy. I tried a few different lengths; left it at full reduction. It used to be set halfway on my old car which was where I should have left it for easier gear changes.

The UDP was not bad either. The steering pump tensioner played nicely. I didn’t even have to swear at it. I changed the oil seal while in there.

The previous owner told me it needed a trans rebuild. It leaked a bit out of the left side. No big deal, I have a VLSD. I’m getting really good with pulling transmissions. I started a timer before jacking up the car. The drive shafts were out in 20 min. I had the trans out in less than 90 minutes. Then I cleaned all the oil leaks and replaced the rear main seal with upper oil pan seal. I swapped over the timing ring, bolted up new flywheel and clutch. I replaced the drive shaft seals on the AE trans, cleaned the bell hosting and lubed the new TOB and fork. After bolting the trans to the engine I changed out the rubber hoses to SS and bled the system. Topped off with Amsoil MTG.

The old brakes got some cleaning and lube early this year. I even swapped a sticking caliper. However, the whole setup was lacking and ready to be replaced. After looking at the budget upgrade options, 5.5 vs 6 gen for ease of one part number type of bolt on, I went with PowerStop one click 07-08 kit. I painted everything with VHT, drilled out the knuckle to 9/16″ and bent the dust shields flat for the install. This with crap rear brakes and non ABS was a horrible combination. Far too much power up front. On to the rear. Generic rebuilt calipers, cheap rotors and PowerStops middle of the road pads. This made a world of difference. This combo is a great budget minded choice.

​Stock, Pacesetter, Stillen

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my5thgen 00-03

2002 Infiniti i35 with Burnt ECU Smell and Slight Hesitation (Fixed by New ECU, MAF)

Community Member Credit: mydecember1985

Our ’02 bone-stock I35 w/113k on the clock had a weird burnt smell yesterday. I got it to the side of the road to look things over, but the smell wasn’t super strong. I googled it and was unaware the motor mounts were an issue with the VQ35s as well. I immediately disconnected them and drove it home. This car has no IACV, so I didn’t bother looping it out of the system today.

I just pulled the ECU and got these pictures. This ECU has “FQ” on top. The part number looks to be A56-T69 ZP8. NOTE: The bottom seems completely fine except for a minor spot around the 5th pin in that chip. No tracers on the bottom are burnt/black. Just that one on top that runs under those green chips.

The car seems to run perfectly fine except for some slight hesitation/surging that I think is more related to 1 non-OEM coil I had to swap in a few months ago and then forgot to track down a matching set of 6. (Wife’s car and is barely driven)

Does anyone know what system this chip is responsible for? Is it OK to continue driving if this thing just controls the motor mounts?

The weird thing is that there are NO CODES?!?!

Member Reference Notes:

  • Fried time to replace the ST509
  • Drive it. Get a spare ECU on order for $40 bux on ebay or go pull one at a yard for $25. NDSII to program keys.
  • The ST509s controls engine mounts, VIAS, fuel pump, and probably the EVAP valves. The non-burnt ones control the fuel injectors. There aren’t any diagnostics for engine mounts, so you won’t get a code.
  • Just do what has been suggested and get a replacement ECU. Cut the plug ends off the motor mounts so nobody does you a “favor” in the future.
  • Your motor mounts (or wires to them) are fried. Leave them unplugged and keep chugging along. Hell even replace them with some aftermarket mounts. There’s 0 need to have electronic mounts in a vehicle this old.

So the ECU made it to Foreign ECU repair yesterday. They repaired it and are sending it back soon. They recommend I replace the IACV, but our car doesn’t have an IACV. See picture. It’s all one big piece of the throttle body. Is this part known to cause ECU failures? The motor mounts are still unplugged. Anything else I should replace?

Final update:

Replaced Throttle body to be safe. Motor mounts are left unplugged. Went to start car to get it warm and complete relearn. Car ran like absolute hot garbage! I was freaking out. The exhaust was smoking a bit (never has before) and stunk of unburnt fuel. I couldn’t even get it to maintain an idle long enough to warm it up and do the relearn. If I did keep revving it to warm it up, I was worried the insane amount of fuel dumping into the system was going to ruin the car’s already-fragile cats.

Since MAF has a lot to do with A/F ratio, I went to grab a Duralast replacement. The closest Denso/Hitachi was 4 hours round trip. $110 and it fixed the rich condition. I was able to warm the engine and relearn idle. Total cost: $250 ECU fix, $130 throttle body, $110 MAF. $490 total I’m really wondering if the MAF was the whole problem with the hesitation and the ECU was completely unaffected because it drove fine for a while the ECU burned up back in February-ish and I unplugged the mounts. I also have a spare throttle body now since it was doubtful that caused the failure.

 

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allGens

RockAuto.com Wholesaler Closeout and Heavily Discounted Parts – All Maxima Gens (Save $$$$$$$$$$$$)

Community Member Credit: Eddy

This will allow you to see what parts for your car are at wholesaler closeouts on RockAuto.com. Very significant pricing reductions that will allow you to save a lot of $$$$$$$$$$. For example, axles are usually $60-$70 + shipping and with the closeout pricing, you can get it for $23 + shipping. All brands included.

4thgen:

5thgen:

6thgen:

7thgen:

8thgen:

Infiniti FX35:

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