Community Member Credit: i30ds

I took my time and saved a bunch of cash for a host goodies. Best ball park guess (includes shipping) $3500…
This included a lot of new stuff:

Just about the only thing that were used are the shift and control rods, the clutch and brake pedals, and a couple of the hard clutch lines. With the rods and pedals, I took them to my grinder and removed all the rust and them repainted them with rust proof stuff.

Parts List:

  • Lsd Manual Tranny- 320B0-40U77
  • Clutch Slave Cylinder- Cant Find Invoice
  • Clutch Master Cylinder- Cant Find Invoice
  • Manual Tranny Motor Mount- 11220-40U12
  • 5th Gen Clutch Disk- 30100-2Y904
  • 5th Gen Clutch Cover- 30210-89F00
  • Manual Flywheel Bolts- 12315-77A00
  • Clutch Cover Bolts- 30223-07S00
  • Shift Support Rod Bolt- 08121-0252F
  • Clutch Cover Bolt Washers- 30240-07S00
  • Slave Cylinder Bolts- 08121-02528
  • Manual Motor Mount Bolts- 01125-03291
  • Breather Tube for Manual Tranny- Cant Find Invoice
  • Shift Rod Support Bushing- 34560-70N00
  • Transaxle Hole Cover Plate Bolt- 74965-0E510
  • Return Spring- 34573-40U00
  • Manual Shifter Trim (Wood W/ Black Boot)-96935-40U10
  • Ae Shift Knob- 32865-4Y910
  • Ae Pedal Covers (Clutch and Brake Are the Same)- 46431-AB000

First, I removed the seat (only 4 bolts and a couple of connectors), the steering wheel trim, lower dash panel and the metal bracket behind it, the trim around the gauge cluster and pulled the cluster out (but left it connected), and the 4 nuts that support the steering wheel up. I used a jsck stand to support the wheel so that way it would not be just hanging there bottoming out and possibly causing some damge.

Now with all this stuff out of the way I now had enough room to remove the auto brake pedal/bracket. In order to do this I also had to remove the left steering wheel support bracket which is held in place by 3 nuts, and 2 of them require access through the cluster area which is why I removed it. With that out of the way, the brake pedal was only 4 nuts and a couple of connectors (but the 4 nuts can be a b!tch to get at).

I now had enough room to drill through the fire wall for the clutch master cylinder. I bought a right angle adapter for $35 from home depot (drilling in this tight of an area would have been IMPOSSIBLE with out it and I dont know how the other guys could have done it).

I also bought a STEP bit for $10 from home depot (I dont know why the hal write up called it a ‘tree’ bit). If you are thinking about just using a 3/8 bit (the size of the two holes for the studs that come from the clutch pedal bracket through the fire wall), forget it!! I tried to do this but the bit is too long, even with the right angle adapter. You need the step bit which gets progressively bigger as you go down the bit.

For the hole for the mater cylinder I used a 1-1/2 hole saw bit (once again, I dont know why the hal called a cylinder bit). This is the exact size for the master cylinder.

With all this, I drilled my holes (sorry I for got to take pics), and mounted the cluch pedal and the master cylinder. I know the master looks off center, but the holes lined up perfectly from the inside and the pedal bracket mounted up to the other factory bolt holes (that were previously unused) perfectly as well. This makes me think that the insulation in the engine bay is what is off (for some reason or another). It is moot point regardless.

Finally, I put the brake pedal in a long with the left steering wheel support bracket (I dont know why the hal threw his away, with out it your steering wheel is only half way supported), and put everything back together. The clutch pedal is NOT attached to the master cylinder in these pics (I have a new one on order), and this is why the clutch pedal sticks out more than it should.

Fidanza flywheel, 5th gen clutch, clutch master cylinder, clutch slave cylinder, ss clutch line from the GD, Raxles axles, AE clutch/brake/gas pedals, B&M short throw shifter, AE shift knob, shift support rod mount, manual tranny mount, plate bolt with transaxle hole cover, shift console trim piece with boot, a lot of misc. bolts and nuts, and of course a brand new LSD 5spd tranny.

Here is all the auto junk I ripped outta there. This includes all the little bullsh!t cables and brackets. I even removed the key interlock cable completely instead of just taping it into position like Hal did in his write up.

This was the only connector I ended up having to cut. It is the connector that went to the auto shift lever. I couldnt get it undone because the prvious owner had spilt soda down in there and it solidified the connector into one sh!t mess. I had to cut it.

While I was in there, I decided to replace the rear main… As you can see I had the slightest seep.

I rvt’d the hell outta the thing so it should not be a problem for a really long time…

Here is the signal plate on the auto drive plate. As you can see, the signal plate is not even shaped right to work with a manual flywheel. Not to mention it is riveted on. This delayed my project as I had to buy a used flywheel, so I could get the signal plate off of it for my Fidanza.

Here is the Fidanza with the signal plate on it.

Gotta love how there is already a factory hole… Only if Nissan would have done this for the firewall.

Here are the shift rods… Sorry this was the best pic I could get, because there is not a lot of room under the car.

Here is the car with everything ripped out.

Here are pics of the pedal install. I did this back in May while I collected more parts. I just continued to drive around auto with manual pedals.

Here is the tranny adaptor for my 3 ton jack. This thing is great. It gives plenty of room to rest the tranny on and it has slots so you can strap it down. It also can pivot and turn so you can mount the tranny with ease… Best $40 Ive spent.

Here is the Fidanza flywheel mounted.

Here is the 5th gen clutch.

Here are the Raxles axles. These things are top notch… The best looking axles I have ever seen. There even filled with amsoil grease.

Here is the B&M STS topped of with an AE shift knob. The look is proper… The way the shifter should have come from the fatory, instead of the ugly @ss flagpole.

Here is a shot of the ss clutch line.

WOW… Look at all the extra room now that the auto is gone.

Ahh… Finally back together again!


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