Community Member Credit: gtrrider
Basing our review on a 1995 Nissan Maxima, this application seems best for such a product in terms of providing restoration of needed grounding points and also slightly dressing up the engine bay. ActiveTuning prides themselves on this kit because it has been slightly revised recently with some added improvements ranging from: 1666 High Strand Count High Temp Resistance Wiring, 24k Gold Plated Terminals for insured conductivity between the connections, double crimping on each terminal for a secure/safe connection and lastly Stainless Steel hardware (bolts and such) which they insure will not rust what-so-ever. With all those things aside, let us get to what we do best. Thanks again to David at AT for providing us with this opportunity.
With an almost 11yr old car, grounding points tend to be slightly less conductive then they were back in 1995. With this Active Tuning Grounding kit we have essentially brought back the capabilities that the electronics of the car once had. There is a noticeable difference in the shifting habits of our transmission, being smooth up-shifts and also a crisp downshift. Nighttime driving in terms of the headlight performance has increased significantly from what it used to be, giving off more than enough light output that is required and also illuminating the interior slightly brighter than usual. Windows of course roll up a bit quicker and also cranking the car takes little to no effort from the starter. All in all, we rate this an excellent product.
- Stronger & Faster Starts
- More Responsive Acceleration
- Superior build quality
- Smoother Idle
- Smoother Shifting w/ Automatic Transmission
- Mounting points shown on AT’s website aren’t possible/best
- 95-01 Nissan Maxima’s
- 96-01 Infiniti I30s
Part Number Information:
- 95-01 Nissan Maxima Grounding Kit
Tools Required for Installation:
- Sockets and Wrenches
- Short and Long Extensions
- Emery paper, grinder, or Dremel to clean grounding locations for good contact
- Materials Provided for Installation:
- 4 Ground Cables 10″, 12″, 14″, 15″
- 2 M6 Bolts
- 2 M6 Flat Washers
- 1 M6 Nut
Installation Process: Grounding Motor to Chassis (1)
Installation is quite easy with basic tools. Before you begin, we would like to emphasize that the motor should be cool before preceding. Going against this advisor could lead to burns to the skin, body. ALWAYS ALLOW THE MOTOR TO COOL BEFORE STARTING!
To begin, locate the already existent grounding point on the passenger side of the engine compartment located just below the headlight assembly. You may position your grounding wire (15″) at this point or to the very right of it in the second already existent ground point.* The other end should snake through and with the provided bolt secure it to the open hole in the front of the valve cover. Use wire ties provided accordingly as this wire is located close to the radiator fans which are operating at very high speeds.
Installation Process: Grounding Battery/Motor(2) to Chassis
Disconnect your Negative terminal from the battery, and proceed to fit one end of the grounding wire (10″) in the sequence, and then secure the other end of the wire to the chassis preferably using an existing bolt. Reconnect and secure your negative terminal and proceed to the next grounding point. The next grounding point is back over on the Passenger side of the engine compartment near the motor mount. While using the same grounding point on the chassis as our first wire, secure the other end of the 12″ grounding wire just behind the a/c line on the motor. Use wire ties provided as this wire is located near the pulley assembly which is rotating at incredible speeds.
Installation Process: Grounding Motor to Chassis (3)
Last and certainly not least, you are going to secure the final grounding wire (14″) to the top mounting bolt located in the center of the Intake Plenum. To get to this you are going to need some finesse but it will work out perfectly in the end. Secure one end of your grounding wire to this bolt, underneath the bracket, and secure. Mount the other end of the wire just below the black canister shown in the third picture to the protruding screw on the firewall with the nut supplied.*
*Picture shows different locations from the description but are later routed how it is explained here.
Make sure all mounting points are secured properly, take the car for a spin, and enjoy. 🙂