There is some information on the web that states the key fob port illustrated below charges the key fob. IT DOES NOT! It’s also stated in the Nissan Manual. It uses a 3V CR2032 that must be replaced as part of normal maintenance which is about every 2 years.

NOTE: The Intelligent Key port does not charge the Intelligent Key battery. If you see the low battery indicator, replace the battery as soon as possible. See Intelligent Key battery replacement in the Maintenance and do-it-yourself section.

The Nissan Intelligent key is a technology that allows you to lock and unlock the doors of your Nissan vehicle as well as open and close the trunk and start the vehicle with the simple push of a button.


  • The first step to Nissan key programming is to get in the car with the key, then lock the doors.
  • Put the key into the ignition, but don’t start the car, then remove the key. Do this about six times, although it can take up to 10 times. When your car accepts the key, the hazard lights will flash twice. This puts the vehicle and key in program mode.
  • Put the key back in the ignition and turn the key, without starting the vehicle, to activate the electronics.
  • Immediately press any button on the Nissan Intelligent Key. This needs to be done quickly to be effective.
  • Next, you’ll want to test out the Nissan Intelligent Key. Stand farther away from your Nissan and click the buttons on the Key. If the lights flash or the horn beeps once, your Nissan Intelligent Key programming was successful!
  • You’ll want to test this out near your Nissan to be sure everything works properly. Walk up to your vehicle and open the door – you should be able to do this without having to press any buttons on your Nissan Intelligent Key.


  • Lock and unlock your doors and trunk without using your Nissan Intelligent Key. So long as your key is on your person, all you’ll need to do is press the “Request Switch” button on your door or trunk to lock/unlock it.
  • Push-button ignition. Get up and go that much quicker! With Nissan Intelligent Key, all you need to do is press the Start/Stop button to start up or turn off your vehicle.
  • Avoid accidental lockout. Thanks to Nissan Intelligent Key programming, there’s no need to worry about accidentally locking your keys in the car. Your Nissan Intelligent Key senses the status of your door lock when you shut it, and if your keys are still in the car, it won’t lock and will buzz you to let you know you left them in the cabin or trunk.

Additional Reference Notes:

  • Although the life of the battery varies depending on the operating conditions, the battery’s life is approximately 2 years. If the battery is discharged, replace it with a new one.
  • When the Intelligent Key battery is almost discharged, insert the Intelligent Key into the Intelligent Key port to start the engine.
  • Replace the discharged battery with a new one as soon as possible. Replace the CR2025 battery with a new one, making sure the negative side of the battery is facing up toward you.
  • If the battery of the Intelligent Key is almost discharged, the guiding light *B of the key port *A blinks and the indicator appears on the dot matrix liquid crystal display.
  • In this case, inserting the Intelligent Key into port *A allows you to start the engine. Make sure that the key ringside faces backward as illustrated. Insert the Intelligent Key in the port until it is latched and secured.
  • To remove the Intelligent Key from the port, push the ignition switch to the OFF position and pull the Intelligent Key out of the port.
  • The key port does not charge the key battery. If you see the low battery indicator in the dot-matrix liquid crystal display, replace the battery as soon as possible.
  • Never place anything except the Intelligent Key in the Intelligent Key port. Doing so may cause damage to the equipment.
  • Make sure the Intelligent Key is in the correct direction when inserting it to the Intelligent Key port. The engine may not start if it is in the wrong direction.
  • Remove the Intelligent Key from the Intelligent Key port after the ignition switch is pushed to the LOCK position.

Community Member Credit: ejarmol

The first mod I ever did to my car was the cruise control always ready one. I use it every day, 10 times a day, and I love it cause I’m lazy. I don’t have to turn that annoying rocker switch and then push set, I can just push set.

I remember when I did it a couple of years ago the current sticky did not apply to the 99se, its box of relays was different, so I experimented and found the one that worked. I took pictures then, and it wasn’t until I discovered those pictures randomly looking through my computer did I remember I was gonna make my own very first DIY. So here it is:

You need: 5 minutes, (2) 1-2″ strand of wire, 4 crimp-on spade connectors, something to crimp ends, a flat head screwdriver

1. Locate the box that has the cruise control relay in it. I used a flat head screwdriver to pop it open

2. Use that screwdriver to pop off the cruise control relay, (this is a picture of the final product), it is the one where you can see two little wires

3. Crimp the 2 spade connectors to each end of your little wires, should look like this

4. Plug them accordingly and you’re done!!

Additional Notes:

  • That “trick” as ejarmol described it is only for the 99 model. Nissan changed the electrical wiring. On the 95 through 98 models, the ASCD Hold relay (that’s what Nissan calls it) is in front of the battery.
  • Look at the cover over the relays that are in front of the battery and you will see one is labeled ASCD. This is the relay that gets removed. If your car has an automatic transmission, you need 2 jumper wires. If your car has manual trans, you only need 1 wire.
  • The electrical schematics for the 99 Maxima and the 99 I30 are the same, same wire colors and all.
  • The one thing that was not pointed out is that he has an automatic transmission. There is a difference between the auto and manual trans in how you would do this mod.
  • If the car has an auto trans, you use 2 jumpers as shown. If you have a manual trans, you use only one jumper. This is because the relays are different for the different transmissions. The auto trans uses a 2 circuit relay with 6 connections where the manual trans uses a single circuit relay with 4 connections.
  • If you have a manual trans car and use 2 jumpers, you will be shorting out fuse # 12 which is for the ASCD and a few other things.

Community Member Credit: sublime258

Issues: My power sunroof switch stopped working this weekend on my ’03 Maxima GLE. I pull it backwards for the sunroof to slide back and nothing happens?


  • This happens to me almost every time I disconnect my battery terminal. I found that this will usually fix it: Use the sunroof tilt switch to open it all the way (you will have to push it a bunch of times), and then do the same thing to close it all the way. Once you open it and close it all the way using the switch, then try using the slider switch thing, and it should open. If it doesn’t, turn your car off and back on and try again. This works almost every time for me.
  • You shouldn’t have to open it all the way. Just close it and hold the tilt switch (close) until you hear a click…that will reset the switches.

How to Fix/Reset Sunroof motor:

  1. Close your sunroof all the way.
  2. Turn off your car.
  3. Disconnect your battery.
  4. Turn on your lights, and step on your brakes. Do it like 10 times. (You are basically draining the system.)
  5. Hook up your battery.
  6. Tilt your sunroof up, then back down.
  7. Pull back on the slide lever. It should be fixed.


Community Member Credit: maxud

I have a 2009 Maxima SV with both electric tilt and telescoping functions. I am at 92k miles and recently my tilt motor stopped adjusting the steering wheel, I know, first-world problems here. I know the motor still worked because you can hear it moving what’s left of the gear.

I did some research and yes, you can buy a new motor from Nissan for $200. However, in my research, I ran into this product – Dorman 905-522. At this point in time, it’s a poorly made product and badly advertised as well. Nowhere, does it say that it’s compatible with 09 Maxima, though later Maxima’s are on the compatibility list. I saw a single review of this product on amazon and decided to take a plunge.

Yesterday, I had the “pleasure” of repairing my motor. So the product comes with new shafts and molded on Nylon gears as well as C-clips and some grease. It also comes with pretty good instructions on the actual repair.

To start with, you want to follow Nissan’s TSB on replacing one of these motors. Here is a link for you: 2012-04-13_225900_09_maxima_steering_column_bulletin

Once you have the motor out, you follow a couple of steps from Dorman’s manual, specifically:

  • Take off the c-clip or locking the o-washer from the end of the shaft.
  • Remove a set screw/spring from the adjustment block (located on the side of the block, inner hex)
  • Unscrew adjustment block
  • Use the permanent marker to draw a line across the outer nut, inner locking nut, and body of the motor. This is necessary to apply the same preload to the inner bearings
  • Remove the large hex nut with a crescent wrench, it was not super tight. I used adjustable pliers to get it off.
  • Then slide the black spacer block included in the Dorman kit over the shaft, it should engage the inner nut. The block is square, but the nut has 12 points, so it will engage without any issues.
  • Spin the inner nut off
  • Remove old shaft, be careful, there is a bearing on the bottom and the top of the nylon gear.

At this point you should confirm that your old nylon gear is busted, mine had a whole chunk of gear missing. Assembly is reverse of disassembly.

But here is some bad news and good news.

Bad news first: When I tried to spin the adjustment block on the new shaft, the block was getting bound up in many spots, so there are problems with threads on these replacement parts. Since I have gone so far with the repair, I did not want to put the old broken part back in. What I did is used small files to file down the metal threads on the new shaft. I basically put some taper on the shaft threads and after about 2.5 hours of manual labor, the adjustment block would thread on smoothly without any issues.

Of course, it’s completely asinine to expect a person to file down metal threads to get the part to work. So here comes some mixed news that hopefully will turn into good news soon. This morning I contacted Dorman about my experience and they told me that they know of this issue and the product is supposed to have been put on hold with no further sales taking place until they retool and fix the issue. They were not able to tell me when the new product will be available, but hopefully soon. I left a 3-star review for this product on Amazon, and hopefully, when Dorman gets a new design done I will be able to update it to a 5-star review.

The good news is that there is no need to purchase $200+ new motors and throw out a perfectly good motor with broken plastic gear. The Dorman kit cost me $35 shipped from RockAuto, the kit includes both tilt and telescoping motor shafts. The R&R of the motor, given a proper shaft, is no more than 30 mins and that is taking things apart slowly. I can do it in 5mins now. For crafty guys, the threads on these shafts are M10 x 2.0. I don’t have a die or thread chaser this size, as a matter of fact, it’s a very oddball size that’s not easily gotten.

I do have some pics, but frankly, between the TSB and Dorman manual, you should have no issues taking things out and putting it all together.

Old nylon gear broke, chunk of it is missing

New Dorman gear side by side with old one

Old gear, notice that the shaft threads have a small taper to them. The gear also still has the bearing (shiny silver disk) still on it.

Tilt motor completely disassembled in the wise.

Tilt motor reassembled with new shaft.


A follow-up on my repair. Sometime last fall I had an issue with my repaired tilt motor. One morning it just gave out, but the next day resumed its function. I opted to simply adjust the steering wheel and turn off the easy-entry function.

I was not sure what was wrong with the motor and thought that perhaps the motor itself is giving out. The telescoping motor died sometime earlier, don’t recall when exactly. After the initial repair in 2015, I did receive an “updated” part from Dorman in 2016. That kit was on the shelf until yesterday.

Since I got time on my hands, I decided to fix both motors. Followed my own links to get the motors out, but ran into an issue with removing the telescoping motor out. Mine died in a position that was very close to the dash, preventing easy motor removal.

The procedure explains that you want to pull on the steering wheel while actuating the motor to completely telescope/retract it out. I was not successful in that procedure. What I did instead was used a prybar between the white bushing and the rest of the steering column. It did not require much effort and applying prybar pressure while actuating the motor accomplished the task. Note that the motor had to be bolted in while performing the task.

On the positive side, I had no issues whatsoever with redesigned Dorman parts this time around. Both shafts were a perfect match for factory threads and no time had to be wasted to file anything down. I can wholeheartedly recommend the Dorman kit vs buying new factory motors or even salvage ones. Again, the most important part is to mark the relative position of how parts are put together prior to disassembly. After replacing the shafts, just realign things to the marks that you made and preloads will be perfect.



Community Member Credit: Eddy

I just installed this little LED Battery Voltage Display Reader on my Infiniti FX35. In order to test or check the battery, you normally have to pop open the plastic cover for it. This makes it easier for me to check the actual battery itself and confirm the voltage reading.

Description: 12V 24V Digital LED Display Voltmeter Voltage Gauge Panel Meter Car Motorcycle
Price: $8.00
Order Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-24V-Digital-LED-Display-Voltmeter-Voltage-Gauge-Panel-Meter-Car-Motorcycle/112243510428