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Community Member Credit: maxud

I have a 2009 Maxima SV with both electric tilt and telescoping functions. I am at 92k miles and recently my tilt motor stopped adjusting the steering wheel, I know, first-world problems here. I know the motor still worked because you can hear it moving what’s left of the gear.

I did some research and yes, you can buy a new motor from Nissan for $200. However, in my research, I ran into this product – Dorman 905-522. At this point in time, it’s a poorly made product and badly advertised as well. Nowhere, does it say that it’s compatible with 09 Maxima, though later Maxima’s are on the compatibility list. I saw a single review of this product on amazon and decided to take a plunge.

Yesterday, I had the “pleasure” of repairing my motor. So the product comes with new shafts and molded on Nylon gears as well as C-clips and some grease. It also comes with pretty good instructions on the actual repair.

To start with, you want to follow Nissan’s TSB on replacing one of these motors. Here is a link for you: 2012-04-13_225900_09_maxima_steering_column_bulletin

Once you have the motor out, you follow a couple of steps from Dorman’s manual, specifically:

  • Take off the c-clip or locking the o-washer from the end of the shaft.
  • Remove a set screw/spring from the adjustment block (located on the side of the block, inner hex)
  • Unscrew adjustment block
  • Use the permanent marker to draw a line across the outer nut, inner locking nut, and body of the motor. This is necessary to apply the same preload to the inner bearings
  • Remove the large hex nut with a crescent wrench, it was not super tight. I used adjustable pliers to get it off.
  • Then slide the black spacer block included in the Dorman kit over the shaft, it should engage the inner nut. The block is square, but the nut has 12 points, so it will engage without any issues.
  • Spin the inner nut off
  • Remove old shaft, be careful, there is a bearing on the bottom and the top of the nylon gear.

At this point you should confirm that your old nylon gear is busted, mine had a whole chunk of gear missing. Assembly is reverse of disassembly.

But here is some bad news and good news.

Bad news first: When I tried to spin the adjustment block on the new shaft, the block was getting bound up in many spots, so there are problems with threads on these replacement parts. Since I have gone so far with the repair, I did not want to put the old broken part back in. What I did is used small files to file down the metal threads on the new shaft. I basically put some taper on the shaft threads and after about 2.5 hours of manual labor, the adjustment block would thread on smoothly without any issues.

Of course, it’s completely asinine to expect a person to file down metal threads to get the part to work. So here comes some mixed news that hopefully will turn into good news soon. This morning I contacted Dorman about my experience and they told me that they know of this issue and the product is supposed to have been put on hold with no further sales taking place until they retool and fix the issue. They were not able to tell me when the new product will be available, but hopefully soon. I left a 3-star review for this product on Amazon, and hopefully, when Dorman gets a new design done I will be able to update it to a 5-star review.

The good news is that there is no need to purchase $200+ new motors and throw out a perfectly good motor with broken plastic gear. The Dorman kit cost me $35 shipped from RockAuto, the kit includes both tilt and telescoping motor shafts. The R&R of the motor, given a proper shaft, is no more than 30 mins and that is taking things apart slowly. I can do it in 5mins now. For crafty guys, the threads on these shafts are M10 x 2.0. I don’t have a die or thread chaser this size, as a matter of fact, it’s a very oddball size that’s not easily gotten.

I do have some pics, but frankly, between the TSB and Dorman manual, you should have no issues taking things out and putting it all together.

Old nylon gear broke, chunk of it is missing

New Dorman gear side by side with old one

Old gear, notice that the shaft threads have a small taper to them. The gear also still has the bearing (shiny silver disk) still on it.

Tilt motor completely disassembled in the wise.

Tilt motor reassembled with new shaft.

Update

A follow-up on my repair. Sometime last fall I had an issue with my repaired tilt motor. One morning it just gave out, but the next day resumed its function. I opted to simply adjust the steering wheel and turn off the easy-entry function.

I was not sure what was wrong with the motor and thought that perhaps the motor itself is giving out. The telescoping motor died sometime earlier, don’t recall when exactly. After the initial repair in 2015, I did receive an “updated” part from Dorman in 2016. That kit was on the shelf until yesterday.

Since I got time on my hands, I decided to fix both motors. Followed my own links to get the motors out, but ran into an issue with removing the telescoping motor out. Mine died in a position that was very close to the dash, preventing easy motor removal.

The procedure explains that you want to pull on the steering wheel while actuating the motor to completely telescope/retract it out. I was not successful in that procedure. What I did instead was used a prybar between the white bushing and the rest of the steering column. It did not require much effort and applying prybar pressure while actuating the motor accomplished the task. Note that the motor had to be bolted in while performing the task.

On the positive side, I had no issues whatsoever with redesigned Dorman parts this time around. Both shafts were a perfect match for factory threads and no time had to be wasted to file anything down. I can wholeheartedly recommend the Dorman kit vs buying new factory motors or even salvage ones. Again, the most important part is to mark the relative position of how parts are put together prior to disassembly. After replacing the shafts, just realign things to the marks that you made and preloads will be perfect.

 

 

Community Member Credit: Eddy

I just installed this little LED Battery Voltage Display Reader on my Infiniti FX35. In order to test or check the battery, you normally have to pop open the plastic cover for it. This makes it easier for me to check the actual battery itself and confirm the voltage reading.

Description: 12V 24V Digital LED Display Voltmeter Voltage Gauge Panel Meter Car Motorcycle
Price: $8.00
Order Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-24V-Digital-LED-Display-Voltmeter-Voltage-Gauge-Panel-Meter-Car-Motorcycle/112243510428

Community Member Credit: Eddy

I started having issues with my rear trunk latch life gate on my 2004 Infiniti FX35. It just wouldn’t open. For some time, I was just removing the trunk 15A fuse where it would reset the latch. It would eventually open. But this ultimately got worse. I got tired of taking the fuse in and out whenever I wanted to open the trunk. Also, I really didn’t want to spend $100+ bucks on the part to fix it, so I figured I’d try whatever was out there.

So I tried the solution in this write-up. I won’t take all the credit because I found some info on one of the FX35 forums (member Jim Lee). It took me about 20-30 minutes to do and WOW, everything works again. It’s been a few days now and all works fine. Basically, you turn your motor back to brand new again by following this how-to. The motor has something called a ‘commutator’. It needs to be super clean. When I took my motor out, it was very dirty and black. It is the common issue of the brushed motor. You can Google “Commutator” to learn more about it. 

Update 4/9/2021: This officially resolved my issue. All is good and saved me a bunch of $$$. 

Commutator Reference Photo:

Summary: I would recommend try this how-to. It will save you a lot of money and it’s very simple to do. The part is about $100 bucks and labor may be another $100 bucks. This was FREE to me and just took 20 minutes of my time. Plus you learn a little about how these things work.

Nissan OEM Part Replacement Information

If you are looking to just replace and not attempt this how-to, below is the information you need to order the correct part for your FX35. Please cross-check the part number to ensure it works for your generation FX35.

Part Description: Motor-Closure, Back Door
Part Number: 90554-AQ000
Price: $124.03

This video below will show you how to remove the plastic covers to expose and take out the latch motor.

How to Fix and Clean Motor “Commutator”:

Original Photo Credit: Jim Lee via FX Forums

After doing the above and taking out the motor, you can follow the steps below:

Take off the 3 screws on the motor.

Pull the shaft out of the housing.

Simply use a terry cloth rag and apply some elbow grease back and forth to clean it.

These were actual pictures of my FX35. You can see how dirty it was as seen above. You can see the green cloth I used.

After cleaning it, it looks like this. Literally brand new again!

Put everything back together. AND NOW EVERYTHING WORKS AGAIN! Before I would have to take out the trunk fuse in order to reset it and hoped it opened. Now it opens consistently with no issues at!!

Motor Reference Photos:

Community Member Credit: Eddy

Both my AC and heat stopped blowing air at the time same. Since I had NO AIR blowing at all, I suspected it was the blower motor itself. Usually, when it’s the resistor, you can get air blowing on speed setting #4.

I ordered an OEM-used blower motor off eBay for $30 bucks vs aftermarket. Upon inspecting the blower resistor itself, it was very corroded and dirty. So I decided to order a new blower resistor as well.  Also, you need to ensure you get the correct resistor as there are differences between Digital Climate and Manual Climate controls.

I replaced both and everything started working again. I really only needed to replace the blower motor. But since I saw the condition of the resistor, I decided to change that as well. Now have cold air and hot air. Also, while you’re at it change the CABIN FILTER too. 

Important Note: You should check the 2 blower motor fuses under the engine bay to ensure they are not blown.

2000-2003 Manual Climate Control Blower Resistor

  • Part #: 27150-2Y910
  • Nissan OEM Price: Approx. $30.00 (RECOMMENDED OPTION or USED OEM WORKING PART)
  • After Market Price: Approx. $35.00

Manual Climate Control Reference Photo

2000-2003 Digital Climate Control / Navigation Blower Resistor

  • Part #: 27761-2Y000
  • Nissan OEM Price: Approx. $80.00 (RECOMMENDED OPTION or USED OEM WORKING PART)
  • After Market Price: Approx. $15.00

Digital Climate Control Reference Photo

Digital Climate Navigation System Control Reference Photo

Difference Between OLD Blower Resistor vs eBay (Old on Right)

New Blower Resistor

2000-2003 Blower Motor Fan Assembly Unit (Same for Manual / Digital / Navigation)

This is what turned out to be my issue.

  • Part #: 27220-2Y910
  • Nissan OEM Price: Approx. $145.00 (RECOMMENDED OPTION or USED OEM WORKING PART)
  • After Market Price: Approx. $35.00

Helpful Video

Reference Photos

Community Member Credit: Greg Allen

For future problem solvers, my 2003 Maxima brake and battery lights were flickering. The lights were eventually solid with no battery charge leading to believe an alternator problem. Went through the process of replacing the alternator with a remanufactured unit from Advance Auto. I got everything back together and the battery still wasn’t charging.

I realized the Alternator ground bracket was corroded as can be. Being my first time diagnosing my electrical system I’m now understanding the need for all clean & tight connections. I ended up getting out the multimeter to test continuity and it was so corroded in many spots there was none. I cleaned connections with a silver wire brush on drill brought it from 4v to 14.5v on the new alternator.

Community Member Credit: Sparky

This 2003 Nissan Maxima came in with the complaint that only the highest blower speed was working. The air would not blow at all, on the lower speeds. Suspecting a faulty blower resistor, I went to the passenger side of the dash.

The blower resistor is located near the firewall under the passenger side of the dash. It is the piece that the connector with blue wires is attached to.

Two phillip’s headed screws hold the resistor to the blower housing.

To release the locking tab, it needs to be pushed in where I am pointing at with my pocket screwdriver.

If you want to test the system this is what you will need to know.

The blower resistor and blower switch are on the ground side of the blower motor circuit.

With the resistor harness disconnected and the ignition on, there will be bleed through battery voltage on the larger blue/white wire. In the blower switch position 4 or high the blower switch directly connects this wire to chassis ground and the highest blower speed is achieved.

When the blower speed is set to the 3 position the ground is sent from the blower switch to the resistor on the blue/red wire. It passes through one resistor and the speed is reduced slightly.

When blower speed 2 is selected the ground again is sent form the blower switch to the resistor but this time it is sent on the blue/yellow wire. At the resistor is passes through two resistors and the speed is dropped even further.

When blower speed 1 is selected the ground signal again is sent from the blower switch to the blower resistor and this time it is on the blue/black wire. At the resistor is passes through three resistors and the lowest blower speed is achieved.

If there is no bleed through voltage at the blue/white wire you will need to see if there is power on the white/blue wire at the blower motor itself.

If voltage is not present on the white/blue wire at the blower motor you will need to check the fuses and relay. If power is present the blower motor is faulty.

I also wound up checking and changing a restricted cabin air filter in this vehicle. It is likely that the dirty filter contributed to the resistor failure.

Community Member Credit: 96SEmaxB

So I started blowing this in cab 10amp fuse called meter, I checked alternator, battery, called harness lights all the normal stuff, couldn’t find it, meanwhile that fuse controls the cluster and puts the vehicle into fail-safe mode… so I scoured the forums and google and was running out of free time and fuses, so I brought it into the shop (local mechanic)…

It took him 9 hours of following wire and circuit diagrams, Forums, calling Nissan dealerships, had everything unplugged from harness and couldn’t find what was causing the short…

He then noticed on the schematics for that circuit there was a mirror section, not side mirrors but rear mirror, apparently the connection at the actual rear view mirror was toast, melted the wires and shorted internally, unplugged mirror and voilaaa fuse didn’t blow.

So 870$ later I had the issue fixed, a measly 100$ mirror crippled my baby for 3 days and cost me 900$.

I’m just posting this so anyone that runs into the same issue to remember that the rearview mirror may not b on the diagram plainly, but it’s something to check also.

Additional Note:

THANK YOU SOO MUCH
This problem happens for me a while back and replaced the fuse and it didn’t pop it happened again and I spent the whole day looking for a short and YouTube videos and forums and I found this one went and looked at the wires behind the mirror they were barley touching so I pulled them apart and replaced the fuse again and it didn’t pop so thank you soon much for your fourm