Category

my4thgen 95-99

Category

Owner: 99BlackMaxMS

Year: 1999
Model: Maxima
Color: Super Black
Transmission: 5-Speed Manual
Trim: SE

Mod List:

Engine/Performance:

  • Stillen/Vortech V2 Supercharger Kit – 3.25 pulley @ 10psi
  • Cartech Fuel Management Unit (FMU)
  • Apexi VAFC-II Air Fuel Controller (AFC)
  • Tial 50mm Blow Off Valve (BOV)
  • Full 2000 Variable Intake Manifold Swap (00VI)
  • Federal Spec Conversion
  • Cattman Y Pipe
  • Budget B Pipe
  • HKS Sport Rear Section
  • Optima Red Top Battery
  • OEM I30 VLSD Transmission
  • Amsoil Synthetic Gear Oil

Suspension/Handling:

  • Intrax Springs
  • KYB AGX Adjustable Struts
  • Stillen Front Strut Tower Brace
  • Progress Rear Sway Bar
  • New OEM Nissan Endlinks

Wheels/Tires:

  • Winter:
    Stock 16″ SE
    215/55/R16 Goodyear Assurance TripleTred
  • Summer:
    18″ Mille Miglia Evo5
    235/40/ZR18 Pirelli PZero Nero

Exterior:

  • BMW E46 Dual Retrofit Headlights (4300K)
  • 35%/25% Tint
  • Red/Clear Tails
  • Clear Corners

Interior:

  • Original Black Leather Interior
  • Redline Goods Shift Boot & Armrest Cover
  • OBX Short Throw Shifter
  • I30 Auto Dimming Rear View Mirror
  • I30 Leather Wrapped E-Brake Handle
  • I30 Trunk Mat
  • Escort Passport 8500 Hardwired
  • 20th Anniversary Edition Pedals
  • 350z Dead Pedal
  • Nismo Leather Shift Knob

 

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Community Member Credit: swatspyder

For anyone that may dispute the “gains” from doing this mod. gains will only be seen/felt if your stock/current ground wiring is shot, corroded and/or outdated. Long story short. I went out and bought some Streetwires UFX4 Clear power wire from Magnolia Hi-Fi, 9ft of it to be exact. So I cut it to the lengths provided in the installation tutorial (photos included).

Bought some generic stainless steel terminals (4AWG) and crimped them myself. Cost, $19.00 for wire, about $9.00 for terminals, already had necessary tools for the job. $28.00 compared to $50.00, definitely better, but it does take time.  About 1.5 hours for preparing and installing the wires if you custom make them.

Benefits that I can tell right away. Stock speakers KICK now haha, but really, they sound a lot better, much clearer lows and better mid/high range. Headlights and all other lights are MUCH brighter! Windows roll up/down faster.

These are the wire lengths for the 98 maxima according to activetuning:

  • 14″ grounding cable from the negative battery terminal to the chassis
  • 16″ cable is installed from the cylinder head empty M6 threaded hole near the dipstick to the chassis
  • 12″ cable runs from the timing cover harness bracket bolt to the chassis ground
  • 15″ cable is installed from the firewall to the intake

As for the other stuff…

  • Increased Horse Power & Torque
  • Awesome Looks
  • Faster Shifts on Automatics
  • Improved Mileage
  • Reduced Emissions
  • Stronger & Faster Starts
  • Smoother Idle
  • More Responsive Acceleration <~~ noticed a difference right away
  • Reduced Audio Noise
  • Improved Electrical Accessory Performance (brighter lights, windows/sunroofs operate faster, better radio reception, etc.)

 

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Credit: ptatohed

I went to the “Dyno Day” at Dyno Extreme on Sunday, 03-02-08 in Stanton CA (near Knott’s Berry Farm in Buena Park) with James / The Wizard. Well, I got my highest horsepower to date! 322.76 HP and 307.82 TQ.

Last year I was around 240. So, with an 80+ HP increase, I’m quite stoked, to say the least. A HUGE thanks goes out to Jimbo “The Wizard” Ozouf for helping me crank out 3 pretty big mods in just a week before the dyno.

Total (power) mods and variables are as follows:

  • Un-tuned
  • Unless I say otherwise below, I have all OEM parts and the “stock” parts that come with the Stillen SC kit (yes this means: stock injectors, stock MAF, standard Vortech FMU with 8:1 disc, Bosch bypass valve, stock fuel pump, etc.)
  • One-step colder NGK platinum plugs gapped to 0.037”
  • 91 Octane gas
  • 13.7 lb 17” rims
  • 12.5 lb 12.2” rotors (stock are 15lb ea.)
  • Cattman cat-back
  • LSS test pipe (just for dyno and track days)
  • Warpspeed Fed Spec aluminum Y-Pipe
  • Fed Spec. left bank manifold (from Fanaticrock – thanks man!)
    (I did a CA spec –> Fed Spec left exhaust bank manifold conversion which eliminated the huge left bank pre-cat. I installed a Cattman O2 simulator for the two downstream O2 sensors)
    Vortech V2 supercharger, freshly re-built
  • 2.87” Vortech SC pulley (see boost/PSI information below)
  • Custom intake piping
  • A 5”d x 8”l PWR water to air aftercooler (barrel design) with a Bosch water pump, a Jackson Racing front-mount heat exchanger, and a Vortech ice chest/water reservoir.
  • Thermal insulation to protect the underside of the intake tubing from the exhaust manifold/engine heat.
  • 4th gen. Variable Intake set at 5200 RPMs (installed by The Wizard, the VI master)
  • Freshly rebuilt I30t VLSD automatic transmission (with Hayden #403 cooler)
  • Perma-Cool oil cooler (not sure if that results in a power increase or not, but, just in case)
  • I think that’s it. I hope I am not forgetting anything.
  • Oh, and my I30 fuzzy A, B and C pillars (good for at least 10 HP )

I have a bad memory but I think the mods that are new this time (322HP) from last time (240HP) are: one-step colder plugs, lighter rotors, Cattman catback, Fed. Spec. conversion, re-built blower (which fixed a chipped impeller blade and inlet oil leak), a few more PSI, larger PWR AC which replaced a smaller JR AC (see explanation below), 4th gen. VI, VLSD tranny with cooler, oil cooler. But I did have my fuzzy pillars last time (otherwise I would have dynoed at 230)!

As far as the boost / PSI level… Well, on the dyno I made maximum boost of 10PSI. However, I always hit 12PSI max on the street. The dyno owner/operator told me this was normal and it’s because the dyno has less of a load than the street. Huh?

I recently replaced my small 3”d x 11”l Jackson Racing (JR) water to air aftercooler (AC) with the PWR AC mentioned above. The PWR is supposed to be more efficient in cooling and result in less boost loss. I now lose 1PSI across the PWR AC where before I lost 2PSI across the JR AC. I also have a dual intake temperature gauge by Autometer. I have one probe upstream of the AC and one downstream. With my JR I would see about a 10 degree difference during idling/cruising and a max delta of 40^ during a full boost run. With the PWR I know see a 15-20^ delta when cruising and a 60^ delta during a full boost run. During the dyno, I added ice to the ice reservoir and saw a max delta of 85^!

Dyno Extreme didn’t hand out dyno graphs that day. So, excuse me for the digital camera photo of my dyno. The owner should be sending out the run files via e-mail shortly so I will post up the dyno when I get it. Also, these are the uncorrected numbers.

I’m really stoked. Two of my dreams were achieved at once: 1.) Break 300HP and 2.) Get a single-digit weight to horsepower ratio (~2900 lb / 322 HP = 9.00 LB/HP!!).

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Owner: ดิลก ฟักเผือก / OTTO SHOP

Year: 1997
Model: Cefiro / A32 Maxima
Current Color:  Black
Transmission: Automatic
Trim: SE / TT

Highlights: Car is currently on Tomei Arms M7655 Turbos and makes 432 WHP /  500 TQ @ 10 PSI. On OEM Nissan GTR R34 Turbo’s, it made 360 WHP / 400 TQ @ 7PSI. The car is still on stock VQ30DE engine and transmission. Now that’s very impressive! The car is also daily drive.

Stock Run  – 157 WHP / 209 TQ

OEM Nissan GTR R34 Turbos : 360 WHP / 400 TQ

Turbo Upgrade: Tomei M7655

432 WHP /  500 TQ  on Tomei M7655 Turbos

 

Videos:

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