Credit: C’s Performance
Maxima Photos: David Colaire
Setup: Brakes Post


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Credit: Luciano B.
For anyone curious, the Akebono Nissan 370z front calipers can be directly attached to the 370z rotor. However, you will need a substantial wheel spacer as the caliper contacts the SR turbo wheels.
A minor modification to the dust shield is necessary. I think the brake line is compatible, but I didn’t proceed to that point because when I checked the wheel clearance, I realized a large spacer was required to fit the stock wheels.


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Credit: Brendan Soriano
Order Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/315131931533
Been looking to do the 350Z 4 piston front brake upgrade for some time now, and finally pulled the trigger!
Just wanted to share some links, because most of these aftermarket calipers come without abutment plates or hardware, which tacks on another $50-$75 bucks.
TRQ calipers includes these parts, and can be had on embay for cheap. I got the unpainted calipers, which were on sale for $155 a pair with hardware and abutment plates. That price has since gone up to $175, but the red powder coated calipers are still down at the $160 range for both.
Either way, stoked to get these painted and thrown on! I already have 6th gen rotors, plus I picked up some wholesale closeout ceramic pads on Rock Auto for around $20, so all in all I’m into 4 piston front brakes for around $175.



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These strut bars were available during the 2007-2009 era. They were among the most affordable options, selling for about $30-40, including shipping. Once they became rare, they started selling used for around $70-$80 since they are no longer made. They fit both 1995-1999 4th generation models and 2000-2001 5th generation models, although they were originally made for the 5th generation.


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Credit: Jovan Figueroa
To unravel the puzzle that stumped everyone, it turns out that D2s are shorter than BCs. It’s possible to order super lows from BC if you want to achieve an ultra-low stance without interfering with the axles. I hope this information proves useful to someone.


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I finally decided to swap my rear Airtekk bags on my 2004 Nissan Maxima. The Airtekk Rear design is not great and rubs against the body of the car. Luckily, I was able to catch the issue before I go a leaky airbag on the highway. The Airtekk bags themselves are very slim and I couldn’t imagine getting an even smaller bag. Hopefully, they fix this in the future as every 6thgen Maxima would face the same. You would literally have to hammer the wall so much for the proper clearance (not worth it). The entire install took me around an hour.
Thanks to Rani and Ham for the info.




You need to remove the Airtekk bag from the strut itself and keep it without the bag. Otherwise, you don’t have a shock absorber and a terrible ride.

This is what the strut looks like installed. The top 2 bolts are 12MM.


Added some black rust paint to give it a fresh look and also take care of the rust.

Car rides so much better. It also sits great. I can go lower in the rear but decided to match it up with the front.

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Though labeled as Automatic, it works with a 6-Speed Manual. However, there’s an issue of it rubbing against the hood and being extremely close to the intake when using Gen2/3 engine swaps. eBay seems to be the better deal with shipping.
Order Link 1: https://shop.redline360.com/products/megan-racing-strut-bar-nissan-altima-front-race-spec-2002-2006-polished-upper
Order Link 2: https://www.ebay.com/itm/124914421322
Price: $79.95 – $87.82

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Link: https://www.amazon.com/Bushing-Fix-BP1Kit-Transmission-Repair/dp/B06XWDQCR4
Price: $29.99
To fix this issue:

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