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Interior, Exterior & Lighting

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Credit: Brendan Soriano

Highlights: Just wrapped up my black interior swap! I added a new center console latch from eBay—works like a charm now. Also, painted the door sill plates and reassembled the rear interior. For now, I dyed the factory frost rear seats and painted the plastic hardware black, and I’m surprised at how well it turned out. It’s not perfect, but it’ll do until I find leather seats and door inserts at the junkyard. This project was definitely worth it, even though it took a lot of time and effort. If you’re paint-matching parts, SEM Classic Coat in GM black is a spot-on match.

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Community Member Credit: Winard Porter

So due to the fact that there was little to no info on here regarding the mirror swap, I decided to do a write-up on the process as i experienced it. Please note, you do this at you own risk.

Tools Needed:

  • Wire Stripper
  • 24 FT Electric Wire
  • Electric Tape
  • Phillips Screwdriver
  • Flat Head Screwdriver
  • 10MM Socket
  • Metal Drill Bit
  • Drill
  • Dremel Tool
  • Mirrors (Left and Right)

Step 1

Remove door panel by removing the 3 screws. The panel is also held with clips. Pull the ends of the panel to pop the clips out. Be careful not to yank the puddle light connector when removing. Once panel is out, you can completely detach it from the car by removing the actuator cables or you can leave those intact and rest the panel to the side.

Step 2

Locate the mirror harness. You will be splicing into the harness using the above wiring schematic. Repeat as needed for both sides.

Note: I kept the stock wiring intact just in case i decide to go back to the original mirrors, its plug and play.

Drivers Side

Passenger Side

Step 3

Once the wiring for the mirror movement is complete. Proceed to wiring the power and ground for the signal lights. I ran mine from the rear turn signals. You will be tapping into the black and green wire at the harness. Once you tap in, you will need to route the wire to the front. I ran mine through the panels and through the grommet at the door.

Step 4

Once all wiring is done, you will now need to mount the mirrors.

Note: This is not a perfect mount. It will not be as clean and flush as the stock mirrors were mounted. But if aligned properly, it can be made to fit neatly. I am including a picture of how my passenger side was mounted to give you an idea.

Once mounted, you will notice a small portion of the mounted portion will need to be shaved off as it touches the mounting on the car when the door closes. I used my Dremel here.

Final Product

Additional Photos

In order for it to fit flush, you have to trim the bottom part and the little triangle insert on the opposite side.

Flush

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Member Credit: Eddymaxx

I recently installed an Auto Meter 22813 triple gauge pod and Ortiz clock replacement pod on my 2002 5thgen Maxima. The Auto Meter pod goes over your existing pod and fits perfect. I’m happy with the overall setup.

Auto Meter Part Number: 22813 (Price Approx. $90 bucks or so). You can find it on eBay.

Ortiz Custom Pod Part Number: OCPN-65 (Price $109.00). You have to order it directly through their site below.
Order Link: http://ortizcustompods.com/nissan.html 

Left Gauges: Water Temp, Oil Pressure, Fuel Pressure
Center Gauges: Oil Temp, Air/Fuel, Boost

2020 Maxima Steering Wheel

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This post is just for reference. These items are no longer being made. To get them, you’ll need to find someone who has a set or buy them used.

These door sills install over your existing door sills. By connecting a few wires to power sources, all four pieces of this set light up to read “MAXIMA” in a cool Electro Luminescent blue. Installation involves connecting to a 12V power source and ground. Sills attach with double sided tape. Installation instructions not included.

Original Price: $100.00

Install Instructions

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