Community Member Credit: The Wizard

Manufacturer Part Number Year Transmission Spec Engine Nissan Part Number
A18-E24 ER5 1995 Automatic Cali A32-VQ30DE  23710-
A18-B42 EE8 1995 Automatic Fed A32-VQ30DE 23710-40U10
A18-B42 EM1 1995 Automatic Fed A32-VQ30DE 23710-40U12
A18-B42 EL1 1995 Automatic Fed A32-VQ30DE 23710-40U13
A18-E11 EQ1 1995 Automatic Fed A32-VQ30DE 23710-40U14
A18-E11 ER1 1995 Automatic Fed A32-VQ30DE 23710-40U17
A18-H80 E3S 1995 Automatic Fed A32-VQ30DE  23710-
A18-B41 EL0 1995 5-Speed Manual Fed A32-VQ30DE 23710-
A18-B41 EM0 1995 5-Speed Manual Fed A32-VQ30DE 23710-
A18-E10 ER0 1995 5-Speed Manual Fed A32-VQ30DE 23710-40U04
A18-H79 E3R 1995 5-Speed Manual Fed A32-VQ30DE 23710-40U06
A18-E12 EQ2 1995 5-Speed Manual Cali A32-VQ30DE  23710-
A18-B41-EL0 1995 5-Speed Manual Fed A32-VQ30DE  23710-
A18-B42-EL1 1995 Automatic Fed A32-VQ30DE  23710-
A18-E11-ER1 1995 Automatic Fed A32-VQ30DE  23710-
A18-C85-EX9 1995 Automatic Fed A32-VQ30DE  23710-
A18-C85-EY1 1996 Automatic Fed A32-VQ30DE  23710-
A18-L00 0E1 1996 Automatic Fed A32-VQ30DE 23710-54U16
A18-C84 EY0 1996 5-Speed Manual Canada A32-VQ30DE 23710-54U01
A18-C84 EX8 1996 5-Speed Manual Fed A32-VQ30DE 23710-54U03
A18-H92 E4B 1996 5-Speed Manual Canada A32-VQ30DE 23710-54U05
A18-E65 EZ7 1996 5-Speed Manual Outside US A32-VQ30DE 23710-56U62
A18-L01 0E2 1996 5-Speed Manual Outside US A32-VQ30DE  23710-56U66
A18-C84-EX8 1996 5-Speed Manual Canada A32-VQ30DE  23710-
A18-F55 E0N 1997 5-Speed Manual Fed A32-VQ30DE  23710-
A18-J08-E5Y 1998 Automatic Fed A32-VQ30DE  23710-
A18-G70-E5U 1998 5-Speed Manual Fed A32-VQ30DE  23710-
A18-N10-Z90 1999 Automatic Fed A32-VQ30DE  23710-
A18-N11-Z91 1999 Automatic Fed A32-VQ30DE  23710-
A18-N12-Z92 1999 5-Speed Manual Fed A32-VQ30DE  23710-
A18-J50-4E6 1999 5-Speed Manual Fed A32-VQ30DE  23710-
A18-N07-Z87 1999 5-Speed Manual Fed A32-VQ30DE  23710-
A18-N04-Z84 1999 5-Speed Manual Fed A32-VQ30DE  23710-

Credit: eng92

This may be common knowledge but I did not see it in the stickies. There are three basic steps involved:

1) On the ECU connector, move the wire from pin 107 to pin 105.
2) Change out your 4-wire zirconia type rear O2 sensor for a 3-wire titania type.
3) Also must add rear O2 sensor signal ground from ecu pin 112 to engine grounds F18 and F19 on intake manifold collector.

Please be aware that you cannot sub a 3-wire zirconia type sensor in place of the 3-wire titania. The two types work completely differently. The zirconia type generates a voltage depending upon O2 levels. The ECU expects to see a fluctuating voltage from 0-1.0 V.

The titania type sensor changes in resistance depending on O2 levels. The ECU measures the voltage drop across this resistance. It expects a voltage fluctuating between 0-2.2V. If the ECU does not see the specified voltage fluctuation after a given time period, it will throw the P0136 code and give you a CEL.

Some of you may have discovered that the rear O2 sensor bung on a 98 is an 18mm thread while the one on a 96 is 12mm.

There are three options for sensor replacement:

  1. Buy a 12mm, 3-wire titania type for a 96 and machine an adapter for it to fit the 18mm threaded bung.
  2. Weld a 12 mm bung on your exhaust and use the 96 sensor.
  3. Buy an 18mm, 3-wire titania type sensor. Easier said than done. Not used on any North American production cars that I am aware of. NTK Europe makes them but NTK North America does not. All of the 3 wire titania ones over here are 12mm.

I believe I found one through Oxygensensors.com. It is Walker p/n: 250-23881. It is a universal type, so you will have to cut the connector off of your factory sensor.

I know someone is going to ask the question: Will this work on a 99???

Short answer: I do not know.
Long Answer: I know the 99 uses a four-wire 18 mm zirconia type like the 98. The nissan p/ns may be different but that just means the connector or length of wire attached to the sensor is different. You would be replacing it with a universal so that does not matter.

I have FSMs for 96 and 98, not 99. The pin-out on the ECU may be different. If someone wants to supply me with the schematic for the rear O2 sensor circuit, I can let you know.

I apologize for the long post, but since there is a GD for JWT ecus going on right now, I figured this would be useful info for some of us 98s.

New O2 sensor finally arrived on Friday – installed it Sunday night

Problem – I am not picking up any voltage output from it on my OBD2 scanner.

A quick check of the 96 ECU schematic reveals the problem. The ECU requires a separate signal ground for the rear O2 sensor to be on pin 112.

Damn 3 wire sensors – the four wire types have a built in signal ground so no separate wire is necessary.
Time to hit the wrecking yard again. Probably the best place to get some of those “fancy” female terminals that go inside the ECU harness connector.




Wired the FPCM and dropping resistor in on Saturday. Had to tun two new wires from the ECU to the left rear quarter where the modules are located. Some minor re-wiring of the body grounds and fuel pump were also required.

For all you 98s, this step should only be necessary if you have a 95/96 ECU out of a cali-spec or Canadian maxima and are getting the P1220 code.

Spare ’96 ecu will arrive at Technosquare today.

For any of you 98 cali-spec owners looking to convert to a 95/96 ecu, I have a whole harness full of ecu pins available. I can pop a couple in an envelope with ~24″ of wire attached and mail them out.


Just an update that may save some people some money.

Before going out and buying the titania 02 sensor:

1) On the ECU connector, move the wire from pin 107 to pin 105. There should be no existing wire in 105.

2) Ground ecu pin 112 (this is the rear 02 sensor ground)

I believe Dandymax just carried out the above two steps and it got rid of the P0136 for him. If it doesn’t work for you, then you will have to buy the sensor.

Credit: Ronny Parra

This is a working ECU for a 1995-1998 4thgen Nissan Maxima. This ECU is tuned for 560CC injectors and Z32 MAF. It can be adjusted properly updated from JWT to any mods you have. This upgrade was $595 got this ECU from mitesh patel years ago with another tuned software.



Community Member Credit: TRoy Otf

If you have a mail-in performance-tuned ECU from Nisformance with advanced map selection features, below are the steps to activate it:

  1. Hold COAST SET
  2. While holding COAST SET hit the CANCEL button x number of times to select desired tune (1 through 5).

For example, to set map #2 you would hold COAST SET hit the CANCEL button 2 times. The SET indicator will flash two times to let you know you have selected map # 2.


Community Member Credit: Eddy

The Engine Control Unit aka ECM is located in your engine bay right by the battery tray. It makes it easy to swap and replace. Please note that ECM needs to be programmed to your BCM in order for it to work properly.

Community Member Credit: Ben Garner

The ECU monitors the transmission-mounted speed sensor to determine vehicle speed. When the vehicle speed limit is reached, the ECU cuts the fuel flow to the engine to slow the car. Ok, in no way do I condone breaking any laws. I figured out how to get rid of the speed limiter on the 4thgen with automatic transmission. This also works on 5thgen Maxima with automatic transmission. 

The signal path for the vehicle speed sensor is as follows:

  • Sensor to Speedometer
  • Speedometer to ECU & Cruise Control

If the signal is interrupted at the actual connection to the ECU, speedometer, odometer, and cruise control functions are preserved. The ECU does not receive a vehicle speed signal, therefore it will not limit the vehicle speed. This modification is easy. But beware, it does include modification of the factory ECU wiring harness…not for the inexperienced.

Tools and Supplies Needed:

  • Socket Wrench
  • Socket Wrench Extension
  • 12mm Socket
  • Crimp Tool

Disconnect the negative battery terminal

Remove ECU cover from passenger side footwell.

Loosen bolt in the center of the main ECU connector using your 12 mm Socket / Socket Wrench and Extension.

Unplug the main ECU connector. Remove snap-on plastic cover from ECU connector.

Locate PINK wire with BLUE stripe. (This wire is located on the right half of the connector when plugged in ECU PIN 29)

Cut PINK/BLUE Wire (It is recommended that you wire this up to a separate switch so you can turn it on/off when needed. Ensure that you do not cut the Fuel Temp Wire as it is also PINK/BLUE)

If you check the codes, you will get P0104 (Vehicle speed sensor fault) and P0504 (A/T control unit fault). To prevent the CEL you can use a switch to switch on/off for the quick burst for going over 120+ MPH. So far there have been no drivability problems associated with this mod.

Reassemble ECU connection and Reconnect negative battery terminal.

Verify the speed limiter/governor is removed by going past your previously limited speed.

Image result for 4thgen maxima speedometer

Disclaimer: This mod is entirely up to you so do this at your own risk. This modification will cause the “check engine” light to illuminate.

Community Member Credit: CS_AR

Here’s a slide show I pulled together this morning after I removed the ECU from my 99 Maxima. I read some ECU removal instructions and was able to remove the ECU in about 20 minutes or less.

While I purchased a new Offset Ratchet Screwdriver Tool with a #2 Phillips, once I started the job, I quickly realized my existing 8mm Swivel Head Gear Wrench would stay mounted on the ECU bracket bolts and make the removal go faster.

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Step 1 – Disconnect Battery

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Step 2 – Remove ECU Covers

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Step 3 – Remove ECU Wiring Harness

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Step 4 – Remove Left Side ECU Mounting Bracket Bolts

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Step 5 – Remove Right Side ECU Mounting Bracket Bolts

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Step 6 – Lower ECU Away From Mounting Bracket

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Step 7 – Remove ECU

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