Owner: Charles Freeman
Year: 2005
Model: Altima
Color: Black
Transmission: 6-Speed Manual
Trim: SE-R
Owner: Terrence Fowler
Year: 2005
Model: Altima
Color: Charcoal
Engine: Gen3 VQ35DE
Transmission: 6-Speed Manual
Trim: SE-R
Mod List:
- Gen3 2018 Maxima Engine Swap (32k Miles)
- 4inch Intake w/ V-Stack
- 75mm Throttle Body
- Audi R8 Coil Packs
- 350z Rev Up ECU
- Working EVT & IVT
- Mishimoto Radiator
- Manzo Headers and Y-Pipe
- Custom Single 3″ Exhaust
- Vibrant 18″ Resonator
- Vibrant 3″ Inlet 4″ Outlet Muffler
- BC Coilovers
- 6-Speed Transmission with HLSD
- UHR Tuned (310WHP on a 97 degree day)
- SKAR Audio 12″ Sub with 1500watt amp
- Skar Audio Door Speakers
- Pioneer 7″ Touch radio
- Red & Back Leather OEM Interior
- SBC RPF1’s 18×9.5 +38
- Continental ExtremeContacts Tires 245/40/18
- Pride Auto Block Plates (No VIAS)
- Megan Strut Bar
Owner: Caleb Anderson
Year: 2005
Model: Altima
Color: Silver
Engine: Gen2 VQ35DE (FWD HR Swap)
Transmission: 6-Speed Manual
Trim: SE-R
Mod List:
- 2013 Maxima Gen2 VQ35DE Engine (HR Swap)
- Tuned on UpRev
- on3 performance 61mm GT3582R Turbo
- Custom Turbo Kit w/ Manzo Headers
- 44mm on3 Wastegate
- 50mm on3 BOV
- Full 3 Inch Intercooler Piping until the Main 3.5″ Charge Pipe
- CXJ Vias Block-Off Plates
- GTR Injectors and Spark Plugs
- Full 3 Inch Exhaust Y into 2.5″ Magnaflow Mufflers
- Oil Warmer Delete
- External Oil Cooler
- OPL Aluminum Radiator
- Unorthodox Underdrive Pulley
- Maxima 78mm Intake with Maxima 75mm Throttle Body
- Grounding Kit
- 1 Piece Clutch Line
- AEM 320 Fuel Pump
- Throttle Body Spacer with Nitrous Port (Will Be Used on the Built Motor with Bigger Turbo)
- Throttle Body Coolant Delete
- EGR Delete
- Stillen (Aasco) 13lb Flywheel W/ Xtd Stage 3 Clutch
- Brace Welded Clutch Pedal
- DE Coolant Log
- Custom Electronic 1st Gear Switch for Magnus Electronic Clutch Slip Device
- Tein Lowering Springs
- Racingline Traction Rods
- B&M Short Throw with Axxtion Short Throw
- Redlion Racing Solid Shifter Bushings
- Racingline Strut Bar
- Custom Rear Brace Bars
- PLX Devices AFR Gauge and Boost Gauge
- Drilled and Slotted Rotors
- Racingline Front and Rear Adjustable Swaybar Endlinks
Owner: Caleb Anderson
Year: 2005
Model: Altima
Color: Silver
Engine: LM7 5.3L LS1
Transmission: GM TH400 Automatic Transmission
Trim: SE-R
YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/calebanderson132
Member Credit: VQpwrdSE-R
So I finally buckled down and added info in here for how to change your oil sending unit also known as an oil pressure sensor. Hoping this helps some of you guys out. The beginning of my problems was when I noted 0 psi on my oil pressure gauge (stock on SE-R) after running diagnostics and checking wiring I had discovered that the sensor was bad. The sensor can range in price for you VQ guys depending upon an SE-R or just SE. The difference between the two is 2 (se) and 3 prongs (SE-R) for the oil pressure gauge.
Links for units:
Given that I drive an SE-R I had to pony up the extra cash for the $70 unit
Ok onto the install. There’s a lot of bad info out there telling you that the only way to remove it is going through the passenger wheel well after removing wheel. I originally did this then found out I wasted my time. We have a grease pit in our garage. If you guys are lucky enough to have a lift or pit in your garage this will make install a breeze. If not pull out your jackstands or ramps and set your car up for an oil change. By draining your oil you can avoid a mess when you unthread the sensor.
You will need:
- Oil changing materials socket
- Drain Pan
- Filter
- Fresh Oil
- Deep 24mm socket to accommodate the sensor to fit inside when threading
1/2 in drive small breaker bar (I found a ratchet too big and didn’t give enough space to fit, I tried extensions and articulated drives as well without success. They just didn’t work)
Breaker bar 24mm socket and sending unit
Location of sensor is above oil pan and drain plug to the right side ( sensor is still plugged in and wire loom can be seen.
After unplugging sensor and using socket to remove I used Teflon pipe tape on the new sending unit threaded it in by hand and used the socket the rest of the way. Be careful not to overtighten and set the sensor so that the harness and plug can be easily removed if needed later.
That’s it! A pretty easy fix to something that would cost over $140 to have done at the dealer. Once the car was on the pit and I had my tools the job was done in under 25 mins.
Wheel Specs: 17×10 +38
Tire Specs: 275/40/17
Wheels: 18×9.5 +38 2
Tires: 45/45/18
Wheels: Front 17×9 / Rear 17×9.5
Wheels: 18×9.5 +15
Wheels: 18×9.5 +38 All-Around
Tires: 245/45/18 All-Around
Community Member Credit: Eddy
If your roof trim is missing clips or has completely fallen off, then below are the part numbers you need. They usually break off while at the car wash or power-washing your car at home.
I recommend getting the aftermarket clips from Amazon. You get 10 of them for less than $20 bucks whereas the dealer its almost $10 bucks each with tax. They are exactly the same.
Driver Side LH:
- Part Number: 73853-8J000
- Part Description: Moulding-Roof Side,Front
- Price: $85.78
Passenger Side RH:
- Part Number: 73852-8J000
- Part Description: Moulding-Roof Side,Front
- Price: $85.78
Molding Rail Clips:
- Part Number: 73858-8J000
- Part Description: Clip Moulding
- OEM Price: $8.25/each (Need 12)
- Aftermarket Price: $15-$20.00 (Set of 10) Order Link
