my4thgen 95-99


Member Credit: pmohr

This howto is for the quick and easy task of removing the gauge cluster. Replacing bulbs, tightening up the tach or speedo screws, tapping into an easily accessible tach signal, swapping clusters, whatever.

Most seem to remove the steering column trim when doing this. It does make it a bit easier, but it also takes a lot longer, so I don’t bother. The bezel will flex a fair amount, so as long as you don’t bend the damn thing in half, it’ll be fine.

This whole process shouldn’t take but 10 minutes, if that.

As if you didn’t know already, here’s the area we’re going to be working in:

You’ll need to locate the two screws, located at the top of the gauge cluster bezel.
They’re indicated by circles in the photo below:

Removing the left side screw:

Removing the right side screw:

Now the bezel will have 4 clips holding it in place along the bottom, shown here (reverse side shown):

You’ll need to pull sharply on the bottom of the bezel to release all of these clips. Some may remain in the dash, or fall off and disappear.

Here are the various switches, dials, and lights you’ll have to remove:

They’re easily removed with a small flathead screwdriver, just insert at one of the sides, and pry it out:

You then pull them all away from the cluster (shown), then disconnect them (not shown):

You’ll then be left with this:

You then want to lift up the bottom portion of the bezel, and rest it on the steering column trim:

While holding the bottom portion there, insert a screwdriver at the top and pry out the top of the bezel:

The top of the bezel will now be hanging on the gauge cluster ‘hood’:

You then need to start walking it out until it resembles this:

At this point, push down on the top of the bezel, and you should be able to pull it right out.

Now, the gauge cluster is held in place by 3 screws:

Removing the top screw:

Removing the left screw:

Removing the right screw:

The cluster now pulls right out of the hole:

Obviously installation is the reverse of removal.

my4dsc: 91

Member Credit: lsmooth81

I purchased some use Brembo brakes and had them PC red, I did not know any better and send them to get PC without removing the seals and piston. If I could do it again I would definitely remove everything before getting them PC. I could not find a DIY on G35driver so I decided to create this to help out other members.

For those that are curious the Brembo Front Calipers Rebuild Kit part # is: 41120-12U25
Rear Calipers Rebuild Kit part # is: 44120-12U25. The kit comes with Brembo seals and O-rings along with bleeder screw caps. I want to thank Rob from Z1 Motorsports for the kit and help.

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First remove the clips, pin, spring and brake pads. I didn’t take pictures of this process since there are several DIYs showing how to accomplish these. You should end up with something like this. I would recommend cleaning the hardware

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Remove the dust boot. There is a small hole, use a small crew driver to pop it out gently. It should come out really smooth.

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Do the same for the rest of the dust boot.

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After all the boots have being removed, the next step is to remove the pistons. I took several towels and roll them up and put it in the middle of the calipers to absorb the impact. Then I use my air compressor to put pressure and pop out the pistons. The air should go in the same hole where you connect the brake line.

There are different items that can be use, the most common is a piece of wood. I didn’t have a piece of wood so I use the towels and it worked just fine for me. Just be very careful during this process because the pistons will shot out fast and make a loud pop.

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In one of my calipers only one of the pistons came out. I push the one that came out back in and then retry to get them both out at the same time with the air compressor, but again only one came out. I got frustrated after several attempts and improvised by prying it out with two flat head screw driver. If this happens to you I would put tape or something to protect the calipers and pistons. If you put down even force on both screw driver it will slowly come out with not problem.

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After you get the pistons out, carefully use a small screw driver to pick out the O-ring, it should come out very easily. Not shown in this pic, but clean the inside really good and then lube it with brake fluid.

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Let the new seal soak up in brake fluid prior to putting in.

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This is how it should look after inserting new seal.

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Clean piston then soak it in brakefluid along with the dust boot.

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Install new dust boot

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Pull down on boot until it catches in the piston groove, like this

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Then pull up

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Put piston in the hole so it sits straight, not crooked

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Push the piston in gently until you feel some resistance .

Then hold the caliper as if you are hugging it and push the piston in with your fingers tip
Apply EQUAL pressure with both hands and it will slowly go in, be patient.

You don’t need to use a vice grip, clamps, or other tools. If there’s a lot of reistance, take out the piston, clean it, relube it, and try again

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It should look like this went done. Follow the previous steps for all calipers.

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The next steps are for installing brake pads. I purchased Project Mu B-Force pads, heard some good reviews. I put on brake quite to avoid brake noise. The rest of the pictures are really self explanatory.

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If any one has any better way to perform any of these tasks please post it. This was my first time ever doing this I learned along the way. Peform at your own risk, I am not liable on anything that goes wrong using this guide.

my4dsc: 209

Member Credit: Greg

1.I bought the Hayden model 404 from Pep Boys for $49.99 plus tax. There were other smaller models, but I figured I would get the largest one practical. The 404 is considered “Heavy Duty” and is 7.5 inches tall by 15.5 inches wide, by 0.75 inches thick. It is supposed to lower your transmission fluid temperature by 70 degrees Farenheit. I would not recommend getting a cooler any larger than the 404, as it will be too big and difficult to install. In fact, the 403 would probably have been easier, as it is the same height, but 2.5 inches shorter.

Click the image to open in full size.

2.Here is everything that came in the kit. I bought an extra 4 feet of transmission cooler hose (not pictured) to use as the return line back to the transmission. The 4 feet of hose that comes with the cooler is not enough, since you will have to replace the stock transmission return line entirely. When you get the extra hose, DO NOT get fuel line, it is not the same. Ask specifically for transmission fluid hose!

Click the image to open in full size.

3.The picture below shows the A/C condenser before installation of the cooler. For optimal cooling effect the auxiliary transmission cooler should be mounted in front of the A/C condenser.

4.The cooler should be installed in “series” with the stock tranny cooler. To do this you have to locate the fluid return line. On the Maxima this is the upper line (without the “banjo” bolt). The two pictures below show the location of the transmission fluid lines before installation.

Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.

5.It is necessary to remove the Driver’s Side Engine Undercover to expose the transmission fluid return line. The undercover is held in place with 7 bolts and one pop-on clip. I sacrificed the pop-on clip when I removed it. Casualty of tinkering with your car.

Click the image to open in full size.

6.Remove the two nuts which hold the radiator to the car frame. You need to be able to tilt the radiator back so there is room to work.

Click the image to open in full size.

7.I traced out a template for the cooler on a piece of plain folder paper. The purpose of this was simply so I could line everything up and get an idea of how things were going to fit, how the hoses would hang and where, etc., before committing. It was also helpful in aligning the 4 holes where the zip ties would pass through the A/C condenser.

Click the image to open in full size.

8.The next step is to take each 4-foot piece of transmission hose and secure it with the clamps provided to the cooler. Then carefully slide the cooler in place in front of the A/C condenser. You can slide it in from the top or bottom, it really doesn’t matter – just be very careful not to bend or damage the fins on the cooler or on the car’s radiator. They are very fragile and will bend easily.

Click the image to open in full size.

9. My personal recommendation is to insert the 4 zip ties through the cooler and the condenser from the grill side in towards the motor. It is much easier to do it this way and you will have a lot more room to insert the plastic cover caps in-between the condenser and the radiator than between the condenser and the grill. Trust me on this. Make sure to secure the 4 foam pads in between the cooler and the condenser before you insert the zip ties all the way through. This part takes a little bit of coordination, and a second hand wouldn’t hurt either.

Click the image to open in full size.

10. Once the cooler is secured properly to the condenser the next step is to remove the stock transmission fluid return line. The line is pre-bent and specialized for the stock setup and cannot be reused. The line is held in place at both ends by simple pressure clamps. I put a pan under the return line to catch about an ounce of transmission fluid which leaked out of the hose.

Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.

11. Take one of the lines from the Hayden cooler and cut it to length. Run this line to the radiator output port and secure with clamp provided. Make sure that the line is not bent or kinked and that it is away from the transmission pan. I bought some 3/4-inch (19 mm) heater hose from NAPA and wrapped it around certain parts of the hoses that I thought might rub or chafe. It is an added protection and a good idea, in my opinion. Secure the second line from the cooler back to the top of the transmission. I secured all of the lines with wire ties to ensure that they would not droop or move around too much.

Click the image to open in full size.

12.Here is a different view of how the hoses are routed from the cooler to the transmission.

Click the image to open in full size.

13.I used a heavy duty zip tie to hold up the top line and keep it from sagging. I later changed the zip tie to black for looks.Click the image to open in full size.

14.The transmission cooler is barely visible through the front grill and is in an excellent location to receive high airflow. The cooler will help out if you do a lot of stop and go driving or “spirited” driving that tends to heat up a transmission. In any case, it certainly won’t hurt anything, and is fun for about a 3 hour job. After driving the car around for a day I had to add about a half quart of ATF to make up for the added volume the cooler provides.

my4dsc: 257

Member Credit: choray911

This is a project that has been on my slate for a while, and I’m finally getting around to it. I have seen several people ask what the advantages of stiffer motor mounts are. The answer it simple, the more you reduce the amount the motor moves by rotational force, the more power you put to the pavement, and reduce wheel hop. They do not increase power, but allow you to harness the power you already have.
The down side is that engine vibration is greatly increased inside the cabin. There are trade off in every project you take on.

Here we go:

Step 1.
Jack up the car and support with jack stands. Remove the lower engine cradle. This can be done by supporting the weight of the motor with your floor jack to slowly lower it down. The tranny and timing cover mounts will support the motor while the lower support is out of the car. I’ve been turbo’d for 5 years, and I cannot recall if removal of the Y pipe is necessary. Use your own judgment.

Step 2.
Once the mounts are out of the car, evaluate the condition of your mounts. You will want to remove a lot of the factory material; however you do not want to change location of the center bushing. Make sure you have a way to keep it in its factory location. I made sure I had plenty of rubber on both ends to keep it in place during curing.

Step 3.
Remove as much factory material as you fell comfortable with. The more Poly you have in there the stronger it will be. To do so, I used an electric drill and several sized drill bits, and a set of needle nosed pliers. There is considerable metal reinforcement on the inside of the mount, so don’t be too afraid to explore. Just remember to keep the center bushing centered.

Step 4.
Cleanliness is next to Godliness! Get a bucket of hot soapy water and scrub away. The cleaner the inside of the mounts are the better the poly will stick to it. Depending on the funkiness, you might want to hit them with some degreaser first. Dawn dish washing detergent works wonders. If your mom won’t get too upset, put them in the toaster oven at 200 degrees to for an hour or so, to make sure they are good and dry.

Step 5.
Seal one side of the motor mount. Trace out the outer boundary of the mount on cardboard and cut it out. Lay the mount on its side and center the circle cardboard piece on the center bushing. Lightly tap the center of the cardboard to make an impression of the center bushing. Cut out the center impression a little small, and then force it onto the center bushing. This will stop the resin from poring out the bottom. Cover the cardboard piece with aluminum foil, and pull it tight with out tearing. Spray some sort of release agent (PAM, Olive oil, WD-40) only on the side that will make contact with the motor mount. Tape it into place using masking tape. Masking tape will not leave residue like duct tape, but this is your project. Tape the ring securely to the mount. The more tape the better. There will be leaks that show up; this will just keep them at a minimum. Don’t forget to tape around the center hole really good. The resin pours in like warm molasses, and if it has a place to go, it WILL LEAK OUT. Then you have to start over.


Step 6.
The Pour. The poly resin I used was Devcon, Flexane 94. It dries the hardest of their line; however they do have Flexane 60 that is more flexable. It can be picked up ant any industrial supply store, like Granger, for around $36. The kit comes with the resin, curing agent, plastic cup to mix it in, and a stir stick. One “kit” will build two mounts with some left over if you remove a considerable amount of material from the factory mount. Place the mounts on their sides, and make them level. Rolls of duct tape or masking tape work. Combine the resin and activator according to the enclosed directions and stir for a good 7 to 10 minutes. The mixture has a work time of a good ten to fifteen minutes depending on temp and humidity. The warmer it is the faster it cures. You only have one shot at this, so make sure the mounts are ready to be filled. Pour slowly and try to keep from developing bubbles in the mount. Fill one half full; fill the next one half full, and then top off the first. This gives the resin a change to seep into all the nooks and crannies, and allowing the air to escape. If small leaks appear, don’t freak out. The resin will thicken up and stop leaking. If a big leak shows up, get creative, you didn’t follow the directions.

Step 7.
The Cure. The mixture will harden so that it can be handled with in 30 to 45 minutes. To speed up this time, place them under a heat lamp. I have a torch lamp in my living room that has 3 adjustable lights that works perfectly. Remove the cardboard end and foil. They are hard in 24 hours and reach full stiffness with in 7 days. If this is a two day project then you can put them in the oven again at 200 degrees for 24 hours to speed up the cure.

Step 8.

my4dsc: 180

Member Credit: Greg

There has been some very uninformed and incorrect information going around the electronic Maxima community regarding use of the Unorthodox Racing Underdrive Pulley.  Some of the unsubstantiated comments I have heard are:

“It will blow your crankshaft”
“It will imbalance your motor”
“It will make your idle rough”

All of these accusations are totally and completely false, and unfortunately not one of them has come from a Maxima owner who has any experience with the Unorthodox UDP on the Maxima!!   Interestingly enough, everyone who has the pulley installed speaks very highly of it and has never had the slightest problem – either a blown crankshaft or rough idle.

Some have claimed that the Unorthodox UDP eliminates some non-existent “rubber ring” on the stock pulley.  This is incorrect!  The rubber ring people are referring to is the crankshaft oil seal, which is a separate part and must be replaced when changing the pulley.  Those who do not change this part, or worse – leave it out after changing their pulley will definitely have major problems!!

Secondly I have heard others mistakenly associate the incorrect assumption regarding the crankshaft oil seal with the equally incorrect assumption that this “ring” (really the oil seal) is some sort of harmonic balancer, and removing it will cause your crankshaft to explode!!!  It does not seem to matter how much factual information is presented, many continue to insist that the Maxima’s factory crank pulley is also a “harmonic damper”.  This is simply not true at all.  A direct quote from the Unorthodox Racing FAQ on their web site:

Our pulleys are so well balanced that when owners call us about how happy they are with the product they always mention their motor feeling smoother. Lastly is the misconception that the crank pulleys on these vehicles are harmonic dampers. A harmonic damper is a unit bolted to the crankshaft snout that is completely separate from the belt drive system.  An engine that uses a harmonic damper has the accessory drive crank pulley bolted to it, they are separate pieces that are attached to each other. Balance shafts, which are used by several manufacturers, are specifically designed to eliminate harmonic vibrations. None of the vehicles we manufacture pulleys for have harmonic dampers in the traditional sense.

Those that would discount the Unorthodox Racing FAQ as “company propaganda” should take a close look at the pictures of the stock crankshaft pulley above, and note that there are no rubber rings or other attachments on the pulley – it is one solid piece!!!

I definitely believe that when it comes to aftermarket engine modifications, one should always be very careful and know what he or she is getting themselves into before making a purchase decision.  The decision should be made based on facts and accurate information, not rumor and ignorance about a company or its products.  After well over a year, the UDP continues to be one of my favorite mods.  It delivers extremely smooth quiet power and has never given me the slightest problem or cause for concern.

Step 1 – Remove the stock pulley

This is the hard part. If you can get past this, you’re home free. First jack up the passenger side of the car and remove the front wheel and oil cover. This will expose the crankshaft pulley. You will need to loosen the bolt that holds the pulley to the engine. The bolt was 19 mm on my car. When you try to loosen the bolt, the entire pulley (and all accessories) will rotate counterclockwise – you need to stop this from happening or you will not be able to get the bolt off. With the 5-speed car, all you need to do is have an assistant get in the car, put it in 5th gear and hold the brake pedal. Then you can get under the car, get the 19 mm socket on the crank pulley and YANK for all you’re worth, being careful not to give yourself a hernia (I’ve had two myself). If you have air tools you can get this bolt off easily without having to lock the flywheel (regardless of manual or auto trans), but you will eventually need to lock the flywheel in order to torque the bolt down after the new pulley is on.

If you do not have air tools, and your car is an automatic transmission model like mine, you do need to lock the flywheel in place while the bolt is being loosened. On the ’99 Maxima there is a small access port just to the driver’s side of the huge steel support bar which runs down the middle of the engine underneath the car. The access port has a cover plate which is held in place with two small easily removed bolts. Removing the small bolts will expose the flywheel. We used a piece of hardened steel (a chisel bit) to stick in between the flywheel and the housing cover being very careful not to damage the flywheel teeth. If your car does not have the access port, it will be necessary to remove the starter motor to gain access to the flywheel. If you have the shop manual for the car, the access port is documented in the section on removing the timing chain, and in the section on removing the oil pan. Nissan calls it simply a “rear cover plate”.

It was not necessary to remove the starter on my car, but I do not know if all 4th generation Maximas have this access port. It was clearly put in place by the Nissan engineers with the express purpose of allowing access to the flywheel. Check your vehicle. Anyway – thanks Nissan for putting it there.

Step 2 – Remove the drive belts

Once the pulley bolt is loose, go about the normal procedure for removing both drive belts. To summarize, remove the large belt by loosening the idler pulley bolt and then loosening the upper bolt to raise the idler pulley. Next, lower the power steering pump and remove the smaller belt. This procedure is also outlined very well in the shop manual. This was not easy, even for Shawn, which is why I recommend a pro for this
job. The difficulty is in the placement of the bolts for the power steering pump, which are difficult to reach. Small hands, a universal, and a LIFT make this a lot easier.

Step 3 – Remove the stock crank pulley

Remove the stock crank pulley. My car was almost brand new so the pulley slid right off the spline without the need for a gear puller. If your car is older, the pulley might be a little more stubborn and require the use of a gear pulley. A good gear puller is an invaluable tool anyway and is available for about $25.00 from almost any automotive store or from a Sears hardware store.

Step 4 – Replace the front oil seal

The shop manual recommends replacing the front oil seal any time the crank pulley is removed. This may or may not be overkill, but considering that the rubber oil seal is only $6.50 from a Nissan Dealer (part # 13510-31U00) you might as well do it. Simply stick a flat bladed screwdriver in there and pop the oil seal out. Coat the new oil seal with motor oil and pop/tap it back in place. Real easy.

tep 5 – Install the new pulley

Coat the inside bore of the new pulley with anti-seize compound and then slide it onto the engine. The UDP is keyed so you can only stick it on one way. Snug the bolt down but do not torque it yet. According to Shawn, the primary purpose of the anti-seize compound is to limit the contact of the aluminum pulley with the steel crankshaft spline. Something about dissimilar metals not “liking” each other. One thing I noticed immediately was the weight difference between the stock pulley and the Unorthodox Racing pulley. The stock pulley weighs in at a whopping 5 pounds! I didn’t get a chance to weigh the UDP, so I don’t have a number but I can tell you that it is made from lightweight aluminum and weighs MUCH less than the stock part.

Step 6 – Replace the belts

Since the new pulley is smaller than the stock pulley you will need to get new shorter length belts. You cannot reuse the stock belts. I went to a local US-1 auto parts store and bought the exact belts recommended by Unorthodox. They are Gates belts, numbers K-060408 and K-040292. I tried Pep Boys and Auto Barn, but neither of those stores carried Gates belts. The price of both belts together was $31.44. You can buy the belts from Stillen directly, but their price was $54.00. I recommend getting the belts locally. Follow the factory procedure to put the new belts back on, and tighten them to factory specs. Now you can torque the crank pulley bolt to 140 ft-lbs. Again – follow the same procedures you used earlier to secure the flywheel from rotating. Torquing this bolt properly is very important – USE A GOOD TORQUE WRENCH. The last thing you need is to have your crank pulley come flying off the engine during spirited driving. I also cannot stress enough the importance of belt tension. FOLLOW THE FACTORY MANUAL. For a new compressor belt the deflection should be 3.8-4.1 mm, and the power steering belt should be 6.5-7 mm. If you do not tension these belts properly they will squeak like a stuck pig!!

That’s it. Put the oil cover and flywheel rear cover plate back on, put the passenger wheel back on, torque the lug nuts to 85 ft-lbs and drive away!. I noticed an immediate improvement in low-end torque, which increased over time as the ECU in the Maxima got used to the new pulley. I would estimate that about 75% of the improvement comes right away, with the other 25% coming as the ECU re-adjusts.

my4dsc: 47

Member Credit: Greg

I might be going out on a limb classifying the changing of your manual transmission fluid as a “performance” modification, but considering how use of this stuff will improve your shifts in both cold and hot weather, the classification might not be that far off. I used Red Line D4 ATF in my 1999 Maxima, and the automatic shifts were much more crisp and smooth, so I decided to give the manual transmission equivalent a try. Nissan recommends gear oil of API grade GL-4 and a viscocity of 75W-90 or 75W-85. Red Line MT-90 meets these specifications.

Transaxle oil capacity for the 6-speed is significantly less (roughly half) that of the prior Maxima’s (1995-2001) 5-speed. You will only need 3 quarts of MT-90, and you will not even be able to use all of the 3rd quart.

Not many tools are needed. A 3/8-inch drive ratchet with a 10mm hex bit is all that is required to remove both the drain and fill plugs, which are identical on the 2002 6-speed transmission.

You also need either a funnel with a long (~3.5 feet) flexible hose, or you can string together anything that will give you the appropriate length. I used a large funnel with a hose extension that allowed me to turn the flow on or off (important if the tip slips out of the fill hole!!).

When replacing the drain and fill plugs, it is a good idea (although not totally necessary) to replace the gaskets. These gaskets do not “crush” like the crankcase oil plug gaskets do, so they can be re-used. Price for each from Nissan was $2.21. You’ll need two. A bit steep…

Here is a blowup from the shop manual. Some of you might notice that this transmission looks quite differently than the 5-speed in earlier 4th and 5th-generation Maximas.

This photo (and the one below) should look like the drawing (above). Photo at left was taken from near the left-front wheel, shooting towards the passenger side of the car. The tranny fluid drain hole is visible in the lower right corner of the picture.

Here is the fill hole. Contrary to what some have done, it is not necessary to jack the car up or put it on ramps to do this job. In fact, I do not recommend raising the car, as all of the fluid will not drain out. I put an old rug on the garage floor and did everything lying on my back – it was not difficult at all – you just need good lighting.

Transax-FillHole.jpg (720×480)

Here is another image from the shop manual, with highlights. After draining/refilling the transmission fluid, you should replace both crush gaskets before putting the plugs back in.

Here is the drain (or fill) plug removed.

It only takes 10-15 minutes for all of the fluid to drain out. The 2002 6-speed transmission will give up roughly 2.5 quarts of very brown-looking fluid.

Here is my funnel system, all rigged up. This is actually the most time-consuming part of the whole process. Making sure your setup is good enough so that it will not leak, fall out of the fill hole, or drop down to the floor. I recommend roughly 3-3.5 feet of hose. You fill the tranny until oil pours back out the fill hole. It should take roughly 2.5 quarts. Note, this is half the capacity of prior Maxima manual transmissions.
After performing this simple change, I noticed that all shifts (especially 2nd-3rd, for some reason) seemed much smoother, and engagement was crisp and positive. An extremely worthwhile investment.

my4dsc: 64

Member Credit: QNO_A32

I installed the Warpspeed Y-Pipe today in my driveway. It is a nice piece and im happy with it. It came with all hardware that you need, and even comes with a nice hanger as well. Took me about 1 hour using hand tools.

Things you will need:
Floor jack
1/2″ ratchet
14mm deep impact socket
14mm shallow impact socket
12mm impact socket
22mm wrench
Penetrating oil
1/2″ swivel
1/2″ impact extention

Here is the hanger that came with the y pipe it uses factory mounting points and works very well. It also came with two new cat to y pipe bolts and nuts and gasket.

Here is where the rear downpipe meets the manifold. take out the O2 sensor to give a little more room. The swivel must be used back here at least on two of these nuts. I used the short socket for one and the long one for the other.

There’s no need to show the front it looks just like the rear but is easier to do. same thing…remove 02 sensor and loosen the 3 nuts. Once you take both O2 sensors out and the 6 nuts for the headers you just have to undo the cat to y pipe bolts. My exhaust is new so this wasn’t a problem for me but others might have trouble with rust. After everything is unbolted there are still two 12mm bolts holding the y pipe up…remove these and drop the pipe out.

Putting the aftermarket pipe is much easier you have more room to work with. install the crush gaskets and get the down-pipes on the studs and hand tighten all 6 nuts. put the new gasket for the cat and hand tightened the two bolts. than install the new hanger and tighten it down. Tighten down the 6 nuts but don’t crank them down or they will snap. than tighten the y pipe to the cat and you done. start it up and check for leaks.

I’m OK with the way mine sounds i have a 2.5″ test pipe and a 2.5″ crush bent cat back to a 5.5 gen muffler. The added power is nice too. thanks for reading and I’m sure i forgot something but i hope some people will chime in. THANKS

my4dsc: 44

Member Credit: SrgScott

Hey guys, I had an oil leak in my upper oil pan, so decided to give you a write-up on how to remove it! I’m going to assume everyone knows how to apply liquid gasket and seals, so I will be leaving that part out. So, if you ever have to remove your upper oil pan, whether its for a simple leak, or your replacing your rear main seal (the “correct” way) then I hope this helps!

I should also warn you. The first time I did this it took me just over 7 hours. But, this being my third time, it took me 5 hours. So be ready to spend the day under your car. I know it will take each person different amounts of time depending on experience. But this just gives you an idea.

Also, I suggest you clean up your engine and engine bay really well while you are in there. I used berrymans B12 carb and throttle body cleaner. The stuff is insane. But be careful to dry it off painted surfaces, just in case

Tools needed:
1/4″ Ratchet
Breaker Bar
Universal Joint (Swivel Head)
10mm Socket
12mm Socket (Shallow & Deep)
14mm Socket (Shallow & Deep)
17mm Socket
13mm Wrench
17mm Wrench
Gasket Scraper
Flat Head Screwdriver
Rubber Mallet (May not be needed, I did need one)

Now on to the process!

Step 1: Remove the ground cable from your battery, safety first!

Step 2: Drain Engine oil (Mine was a 13mm Plug, however, yours may be 14mm or another, just try wrenches till you find the right one for you), and remove oil filter.

Step 3: Remove both CKPS sensors, three(3) 10mm bolts total, and the Oil pressure sensor(along with the little bracket that holds the wires, three(3), 12mm bolts)

Step 4: Remove the ten(10), 10mm bolts that hold up the steel oil pan. Picture only shows five, but you get the idea.

Step 5: Remove the oil strainer, two(2), 12mm bolts

Step 6: Remove the Y-Pipe, eight(8), 12mm nuts(Aparently on some other Maxs or I30s the 6 nuts at the manifold may be 14mm, again, just try them till you get your correct size). You will need your extension, universal joint, and both shallow and deep 12mm sockets here. Also, you may need some liquid wrench for the nuts, as they may be rusted on, be gentle yet firm and TAKE YOUR TIME, you don’t want to break a stud off. (Sorry, I don’t have a photo for this step, but if you need one let me know and I will get one for you!)

Step 7: Place a SUITABLEfloor jack on a SAFE location on the trans to support it for the next step. In the photo is where I placed my floor jack. You could also use an engine hoist if you want.

Step 8: Remove the eight(8) center beam bolts

Step 9: Remove your drive belt. 14mm deep socket and an extension is what I use.

Step 10: Remove the A/C Compressor, and its brackets. Six(6), 14mm bolts, and two(2) 12mm bolts.

After removing the compressor, I place it on an extra jack stand so it is not just hanging there adding stress to the lines.

Step 11: Remove the cover plate, its black and literally covers a hole that lets you inspect the timing ring. Two(2), 10mm bolts. Sorry it’s not in the photo, but you get the idea.

Step 12: Remove the Upper oil pan. Twelve(12), 12mm bolts(Five are inside where the oil strainer was, see photo), and then remove the four(4), 14mm tranny bolts(see photo). I’m sorry I dont have a photo of all twelve bolts the hold it up there, its just a little difficult to get a D80 under there. If you need me to get some photos of the bolts for you let me know and I’ll do my best.

The upper pan won’t come out too easily. Just be patient with it, there are a few spot that have a slight indention where you can place a flat head screw driver(or the recommended tool the dealer uses) to pry it off. Just take your time and it will be off soon.

And here is the upper oil pan off of your car, congrats! I’m so proud of you…..

See the two little o-rings there? If they are still in good condition (as mine were) just clean them up and use them again, otherwise, replace them (dealer part?). Look at the bottom of your engine, you should see where they go, I just put a tiny bit of liquid gasket on them to hold them in place while I installed the upper oil pan. Be sure to scrape all of the old gasket out of those little crevasses, so that your new liquid gasket will work as intended!

And here is the view from the bottom of your engine, not the best photo, but you get the point.

my4dsc: 39

Member Credit: marktab

Hi All — thanks for the other posts on on EGR tube cleaning. I spent several hours cleaning mine, and decided to take comprehensive pictures. Enjoy!

Why are you posting so many pictures and information since this topic is often on

The EGR Tube cleaning took me hours to finish. Also, this cleaning job does not appear in my generic Nissan service manual, nor is it in the official Nissan service manual. People who repair cars a lot or who are advanced will NOT need this much detail (and there are many advanced or professional-level people on this forum). I consider this project as an intermediate-level service task, and the directions can help you or help someone you might pay to do it for you.

Do you recommend removing from the top or the bottom?

Some have had success removing the tube from the bottom (under the car). However, I believe a better solution is to remove the IACV assembly so that you can clean it. Also, the hole where the IACV assembly goes provides a way to scrape and clean the area where the EGR Tube empties into the main air flow chamber. I did NOT remove the intake manifold.

Do I need to purchase replacement gaskets?

I did not, and I made sure that I was not soaking my original gaskets with the cleaning solvent. If you do destroy yours, you could probably cut your own new ones from gasket material designed for exhaust pipes.

Did you replace your EGR flow tube?

Someone mentioned that they bought a replacement tube. I think it’s sufficient to clean the tube you have unless you have some reason to get a new one (say if it rusted or cracked). Even if you buy a replacement tube, you will still need to clean the sensor off, and also the ports where the EGR tube connects to the car. I found more carbon at the top end, and I believe there was more there because of the sharp airflow angle. The IACV assembly also can be cleaned, and the IACV assembly port allows for cleaning the main airflow chamber.

How quickly can the job be completed?

We can compare how long it takes to remove the EGR tube from the vehicle. Some say they can remove it in minutes, and I believe experienced people can do it that quickly. However, the entire time is affected by how much cleaning the tube needs, and how much time you need to clean the connection port areas and the IACV assembly. In cleaning blockage, you need to at least scrape enough out to allow airflow again, and at best, you can clean these areas back to the original bare metal surface. If someone claims to do this whole job quickly, I would wonder how much time and care they put into the cleaning. Poor cleaning will shorten the time until the next required cleaning.

How often should the EGR flow tube be cleaned?

My tube was cleaned for the first time at 111K miles. It was already blocked and throwing the P0400 (same as P400) code (which is one code which will turn on the yellow engine light on the dashboard). I believe the answer varies on your oil choice, driving habits, and typical use (meaning city or highway driving). I believe that 100K is too long to wait. Now that my bottom connection nut has been hacked, cleaning it in the future will take less time.

Did the problem prevent passing emissions?

I have passed Georgia emissions every year since I got the car in 2000 (with 22K miles). This year (in January 2009), I had to replace the faulty gas cap. I do not know if this issue has been preventing people from passing emissions.

Do you recommend blowing the EGR carbon through the engine with seafoam or other solvents?

I believe that solution is NOT a good idea for this application. It is better to carefully scrape and remove the carbon deposits with fuel-injector safe carburetor cleaner. You can also spray this cleaner into the port where the IACV assembly goes. I would NOT expose my Maxima to excess oxygen or fuel, and expect it to run well, so I would NOT expect that putting extra carbon into the engine is a good idea. The carbon left by the EGR is not just black deposits on the metal wall, but thick tough carbon that I needed to carefully scrape out (mostly with a small screwdriver head).

What is the difference between cleaning the EGR flow tube and leaving it alone?

In my case, I simultaneously received the P0325 and P0400 codes together. The P0325 (or P325) code means change the knock sensor, and I was able to do that with directions from the forum (and a replacement part from Ebay at about US$28, bought mine from the Ebay seller “abcmarts”). Changing the knock sensor alone improved my acceleration, and also improved engine starting (the engine used to require more cranking). Changing the EGR Tube has just about removed all pinging, and also improved acceleration (more). I track MPG, and have NOT seen a difference. Also, if you do NOT clean the tube, your engine will probably run (if that is your goal), but cleaning it helps restore toward the original engine performance (and probably extend engine life, even though no one could probably prove that point in all cases).

Do you believe blocking the EGR system is a good idea for Maxima fourth generation?

I do not, because of all the systems which connect into the EGR valve. You can study these connections in the official Nissan service manual (check eBay if you want to buy one). If you happen to be an automotive engineer and could prove to me comparable or superior performance using some workaround, I would like to hear about it.

Do you believe the EGR tube could be redesigned?

I believe the tube could be redesigned to allow for smoother air flow. As it is, the sensor comes into the tube at a right angle to the airflow (the sensor looks like a thermistor, a device to measure heat, and therefore a proxy for air flow). My EGR tube was most blocked at the top connection side, where the tube bends at about 90 degrees, and then goes into the main airflow chamber (and that part has a sharp bend too). None of us needs advanced automotive training to know that these sharp corners do not help airflow, and certainly not airflow filled with carbon particles. I believe a better air flow tube (and wider diameter) would be better. I have a theory that a better-designed tube would need to be cleaned less. The spacing, however, is tight, but maybe someone with good welding skills might want to fabricate and test a replacement.

So, has the light stayed off?

Yes, the light has stayed off for the last 500 miles. My story started with two engine codes, and in my case, I replaced the knock sensor first. The P0400 (same as P400) came back after less than 30 miles, and after a few weeks, I had a weekend where I decided to take on the EGR tube cleaning project.

Hopefully, this information will help you tackle the job 

my4dsc: 109

Owner: Miguel Arroyo

Social Media:

Year: 1999
Model: Maxima
Color: Custom Candy/Pearl Tangerine Orange
Transmission: Manual 5spd
Trim: SE-L also known as 99.5 or 4.5 Gen

What motivated you to MOD your Maxima?

I’ve been a Nissan guy all my life and I love the body style specifically on this model, it’s also considered as 4DSC and I know the potential and capability of these engines, so basically that’s why I decided to mod my car.

I’ve owned this car since 2010 and I’ve been building it for the last 6 years, every single mod has been done by me. – Miguel

Full Mod List / Specs:

    • Vortech V2 Supercharger with 2.62″ pulley
    • 00VI swap with Power Rod Set to Open at 4900RPM
    • Pathfinder Throttle Body (PFTB) with Block Off Plate (BOP)
    • 928MotorSports Mega Boost Limiter Valve (BLV)
    • Greddy Blow Off Valve (BOV)
    • Greddy eManage Ultimate (EMU) with Plug and Play (PNP) harness
    • Greddy Oil Catch Can
    • Greddy 5″X13″X3″ 3″Front Mount Intercooler (FMIC)
    • Greddy Radiator Cap
    • 2015 GT-R 560cc injectors
    • 255lph Walbro Fuel Pump
    • Aeromotive Air Fuel Pressure Regulator (AFPR)
    • Vortech Fuel Management Unit (FMU)
    • NGK Iridium 1 Step Colder Spark Plugs
    • Z32 TT MAF
    • Z32 Fuel Filter
    • SPEC Stage 3 Clutch
    • SPEC Lightweight Aluminum Flywheel
    • Unorthodox Stock Size Crank Pulley
    • OBX V2 headers-Y pipe Ceramic Coated and Fiberglass Heat Wrapped
    • 3″ 240sx Nismo High Flow Cat
    • 3″ Mandrel Bent Catback
    • 3″ MagnaFlow Resonator
    • 3″ Greddy Revolution RS Muffler
    • K-Sport Pro Coilovers
    • Stillen Oil Cooler Kit
    • Stillen AP Racing Big Brake Kit (BBK) with 330mm Stillen 2 Piece Rotors and SS Brake Lines
    • Stillen Rear Sway Bar (RSB)
    • Stillen Front Strut Tower Bar (FSTB)
    • Stillen Pop Charger
    • Injen Cold Air Intake (CAI)
    • AEM UEGO Wideband Gauge/Sensor
    • Autometer Shift Light
    • Quad Custom Pillar Gauge Pod
    • Steering Wheel Custom Gauge Pod
    • Glow Shift Gauges, Boost, Oil Pressure, Volt Meter, Double Intake Temperature and Nitrous
    • Rockford Fosgate Sound System T2’s 12″Subs 2 1000 Watts Amps/Speakers/Tweeters
    • Flipdown Tv’s
    • Pionner Double Din Radio
    • Fiber Glass Mounting Custom Kick Panel Speakers and Seat Belt Pillar Tweeters (Momo)
    • Optima Yellow Top Battery with Digital Silver Terminals
    • XXR 351 Wheels 18″x10″ Rear 18″x9″ Front 20 offset Custom Candy Electric Blue
    • Nitto 225-40R18″  Rear 215-40R18″ Front
    • 01 Maxima rear folding back seat conversion
    • Infiniti G37 Rear View Mirror Swap
    • Black Interior Swap
    • Stillen Front Lip
    • Sarona Side Skirts
    • Sarona Vented Fenders
    • Ionic Dynamics Rear Corners
    • Ionic Dynamics Rear Roof Spoiler
    • Ionic Dynamics
    • Carbon Fiber Eye Lids
    • Carbon fiber Interior Trim
    • R34 Headlights painted candy blue to match the wheels, Retrofited them with Bi-Xenon orimoto H1 7.0 projectors and Gatlin Gun Shrouds as DRL instead of high beams, J30 Infinity lowbeam projectors with clear lenses/spacers, Morimoto RGB Halos/demon eyes Switchback DRL ED Bars, Morimoto Elite HID’s, customized corner LED boards, Strobe Lights
    • Fog Lights Projectors Retrofit/RGB Halos/Strobe Lights
    • Taillights/bumper lights LED Retrofited/Sequential turn signal lights
    • Morimoto XBT RGB LED Cellphone Controller/Underglow LEDS/Wheel Well/Interiors/Dash Board-Heater Controllers-Window Switches/Map/Cluster
    • C-Mod Grill
    • Hella Electric Horns
    • Short Carbon Fiber/Aluminum Antenna Mast Conversion
    • Aerocatch Flush Hood Pins
    • Aluminum Rear Diffuser
    • Custom Front Splitter
    • Thule Roof Rack
    • RECARO Racing Seats
    • Four Point SPARCO Seat Belts
    • Custom Made Seat Brackets out of stock electric seats
    • Center Line Competition Series Qualifier Polished Wheels 15”x8” 14 lbs weight, Mickey Thompson Pro Bracket Radial Tires 20.0/8.5R15 X5 Compound
    • NX Stage 2 Water Methanol Injection kit
    • NOS Direct Port 120 Wet Shot Nitrous Kit
    • ZEX Machine gun Purge
    • 24lbs Nos Bottle with electric Nos opener
    • Dyno Tune Lean Shutdown Switch
    • Dyno Tune Bottle Heater
    • Custom Steering Wheel Wireless Nos Triggers along with Horns Fully Functional
    • Center Cupholder Custom Nos System Controllers
    • Nardy 350mm Sterring Wheel
    • NRG Quick Release
    • NRG Steering Wheel adapter
    • NRG Harness Bar
    • NRG Gold Wire Ground Kit
    • MOMO E-Brake Handle
    • NISMO Aluminum Pedals
    • NISMO Oil Filler Cap
    • Redlion Steering Column 1 Piece Aluminum Bushing
    • Energy Suspension (ES) Motor Mounts
    • Blue Interior Carpet
    • EGR Delete, No CEL
    • Flip Flop Trunk Lid Conversion
    • I also have a Carbon Fiber Hood, Trunk Lid, Spoiler and Lip Kit, but I haven’t installed them yet. I’m also planning to do a Custom Roll Cage and Painting it same color as my Wheels (Candy Electric Blue)

my4dsc: 731