Member Credit: yellow_cake

Hi folks, just thought I’d share my retrofit project on my 99 Maxima.

– Used Depo headlights.
– G37 sedan projector.
– ’13 Cadillac SRX semi-clear lens.
– OEM G37 shrouds.
– Denso Slim ballasts.
– Osram CBI 66240 bulbs.
– Nichia Superflux white LEDs.
– exLEDs reflectors for superflux LEDs.
– Custom wiring harness + DRL & headlight controller.

Mounted using the JNC method, giving minor rotation and height adjustment on top of the factory reflector adjusters (vert + horiz).
For more info about the JNC mounting method:…model-pictures
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OEM G37 sedan shrouds fitted.
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After cutting the container, I used lots of JB weld to secure it into place.
Not shown, but there is also a bunch of epoxy around the inside for added strength. For that I used a self-mixing syringe type clear epoxy.
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Here it is, fitment with the reflector mounted into the housing.
The empty containers were from workout supplements; different colours, but both were identical in size.
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I used a sheet of balsa wood for the base, with some chrome vinyl for the front edge which will be visible.
The LED were secured into the reflectors with epoxy; the reflectors secured to the base & one-another with clear epoxy.
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Home-made resistor array, clear-coated after everything was soldered to prevent the copper from oxidizing.
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Epoxy’d the DRL base into place.
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Cutout the top cover, also made from a sheet of balsa wood. Showing the bottom view where the chrome vinyl wraps around.
Prior to mounting, I spread epoxy all over to prevent the edges of the vinyl from lifting.
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Epoxy’d the top cover. The reason I used chrome vinyl is so that the DRL assembly flows well with the rest of the headlight.
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Close up of fitment.
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The Denso slims had the short cords, this would be problematic for most retrofits…
I extended the wires while making the ballasts D2S/AMP hybrid. This will make headlight removal easier as well.
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Soldered + adhesive lined shrink tubing. Notice how the solder joints offset one-another, good practice in case the joint or insulation fails (which it shouldn’t, lol).
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Terminals crimped on.

Ooooohhh, aaaahhh… I’ll be potting the ballasts as well.

Wires fished out through a rubber grommet.
Here’s the wiring setup: The one loom has the DRL + solenoid wires, the other has the ballast cord.
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Cap screwed on, sealing the back from dust/water.
The 3-pin connector wires: solenoid positive, ground, and DRL positive.
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The rubber grommet at the bottom.
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Headlight completed!
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Here’s the custom DRL controller + headlight controller.

The DRL controller has a dual brightness mode via an external PWM (ebay). Also, I’ve made it so engaging the e-brake will disable the DRL, just like the stock DRL. This will give me the ability to pull the handbrake up one click and have the DRLs off if I need to be stealthy, lol.

On the right is the low+high beam controller. basically it’s a delay off circuit. Meaning, if the headlights are on and then turn them off, it will take about 2 seconds to shut off… I did this mainly for flashing while the headlights are off. This way it’s not flashing the ballasts as they remain on in between flashes.
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Ebay PWM at the bottom.

Potted the Denso ballasts.
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Made a 9004 “connector” out of an old bulb. Removed the bulb and soldered wires onto the pins, then filled it with potting compound.
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Eventually I plan on making an Arduino controlled DRL/headlight controller, it will have a fancy aluminum housing… For now, I’ve got the current setup wrapped in electrical tape… yea, it looks like a grease job, LOL.
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DRLs on:
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LEDs are dimmed when parking lights come on.

Low beams on:
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I don’t have output pics at the moment, but I’ll get them in the next few days.