Owner: Steve Drepaul
Make/Model: Nissan Maxima
Color: Custom Gray
Owner: Steve Drepaul
Make/Model: Nissan Maxima
Color: Custom Gray
Member Credit: schmellyfart
I was thinking about making a solid shifter bushing when I came across this on a Sentra forum. It uses Energy Suspension sway bar bushings. Part # 9.5101
I paid $20 for a set of two. Only downside is that you can’t buy them individually.
The shifts don’t feel as smooth, but they do feel much more solid. I do feel a bit more vibration in the shifter. These impressions are with ES Motor mounts and NWP TQ Link installed. Overall I’m very happy with this mod.
Only one modification is needed. You need to cut off the lip on one side of the bushing, otherwise the support rod won’t fit back in. I also used one of the washers these bushings came with under the bolt on the rear of the shifter bushing.
Some of the pictures suck, I’ll retake some when I get around to it.
Member Credit: schmellyfart
Installed a set of the lightweight Millenia wheels today. The main point I want to make is the amount of work needed to get the rear wheels to fit is minimal. I read some old posts making it seem like it was a lot of work and a lot of grinding had to be done.
It was well under a couple minutes of actual sanding/grinding time. I used a Dremel with a sanding drum. The outer lip on the wheel near the centerbore only needs a few thousandths taken off to fit over the rear hub dust caps.
A total of 44lbs lighter then my reinforced (~16lb) rx7 wheels.
205/65R15 on the Millenias 32lb per corner
245/50R16 on the RX7s 43lb per corner
When I had the 225/55R16 on the RX7s, they were about 39-40lbs per corner when brand new.
One thing to note is that the 245s are practially brand new and only have 900 miles on them. And the 205s are maybe 1 or 2/32 from the wear bars. I wasn’t able to weigh the wheels without tires, so there’s a fudge factor of a couple pounds.
And no, I don’t care how bad they look compared to the RX7 wheels. I installed these to see how they affect my fuel economy since I’ve only been getting 25-27mpg with the 3.5.
Member Credit: schmellyfart
I’ve been mulling over a side exit exhaust off and on the past year. I pulled the trigger on Black Friday as 2J-Racing had their 3″ B15 side exit exhaust on sale. Having only eyeballed pictures of it on their website and those that others have posted, I was anticipating that some modification would be required but should be close enough.
First and foremost, weight reduction. My A32 Cattman 3″ catback w/o2 sensor weighed 39 lbs. The 2JR B15 side exit came in at 23 lbs. Unfortunately, I don’t have a complete stock A32 catback to compare.
The only modifications needed to make it fit is to weld or bolt on a longer piece of steel to the included exhaust hanger, an o2 bung will need to be added. Lastly depending on personal preference, a new flange could be sandwiched between the rearmost joint, or you could take a BFH to the exhaust tunnel. YMMV if you still have the heat shields installed.
As it currently sits (with only the modified exhaust hanger) the exit pipe hangs roughly an inch below the pinch weld. The flange spacer and/or a BFH should allow the exit pipe to be tucked up more.
First impressions on sound, well its definitely louder than the Cattman 3″. At a warm idle and maintaining speed is when its the quietest. Light acceleration reminds me of a super loud honda putting around town. WOT reminds me of a raspy G/Z with test pipes. I’ll report back after I’ve put more miles on it.
I should be recording some video of it with a gopro soon. I have a start up vid, but the phone was too close to do much good.
Member Credit: schmellyfart
Greetings everyone, today I will be showing you how to install MKIII MR2 (ZZW30) seats in your A32.
First off, the most important part – weight.
A32 ’97 SE Power Cloth Driver Seat = 44lbs
A32 (unknown year&trim) Manual Cloth Driver Seat = 40lbs
ZZW30 ’02 Spyder Manual Cloth Driver Seat = 34.8lbs
A32 ’97 SE Manual Cloth Passenger Seat = 36.2lbs
ZZW30 ’02 Spyder Manual Cloth Passenger Seat = 32.8lbs
My total weight savings: ~12lbs taking into account longer bolts and spacers.
All weights measured to the tenth were done with an AMW-TL440, The rest were done with a bathroom scale. I plan to update the old bathroom scale weights in the future.
What you will need per seat:
The longer bolts I used were taken off of a precat from a 99 Cali Spec.
The 1/8″ washer I had laying around. The 3/8″ and 3/4″ spacers were salvaged from an aluminum 7th gen engine mounting bracket.
First order of business is to trim off these locating tabs near the front two bolt holes.
Next, bend the front two mounting ears down about ~70°. Don’t bend it too far, you can always bend it down more, but the more that the joint is bent back and forth, the weaker it will become – which can lead to premature failure.
Rear mounting points. The 1/8″ washer goes underneath the rear bolt hole nearest the door. This can be shimmed to your personal preference, but so far the seat feels pretty level.
Front mounting point, exhaust tunnel side gets a 3/8″ spacer.
Front mounting point, door side gets (2) 3/8″ spacers totaling 3/4″ and the longer bolt.
The least frustrating way to bolt the seats in is to get the two rear bolts a couple turns away from being snug, so that there is still a fair amount of wiggle room. Then insert the spacers on the front and get those bolts started. Tighten up the front bolts, then the rears.
The way I have attached these seats makes the slider mechanism a little sticky, so extra effort will be required to ensure that the slider is locked into position after moving the seat.
Lastly, these seats do sit a little lower than stock. And they make it feel more like a race car
Member Credit: schmellyfart
I’m happy to say that I finally have a 6 speed swap under my belt now. This one was done on a buddies ’99 (deloa84), so I thought I’d show what I did differently than the procedure in the write ups. In my opinion my changes are cheaper and easier than the alternatives.
The main hurdles I’ve identified with the swap are the timing ring and the transmission mount.
For the timing ring, I drafted it up in my favorite CAD software and had it cut at a local machine shop. It is just a matter of unbolting the old ring off of a 6MT JWT Flywheel and bolting the new one on.
Next up is the transmission mount. I am a fan of being able to revert back to stock should the need arise, and this swap is no exception. It actually ended up being a lot easier than I had anticipated.
I used the stock 6mt mount bracket that bolts to the transmission, and ground the sides down a little. I also cut a bit of material off of the trans mount bracket attached to the frame rail. With the remaining three engine mounts (all are solid/polyurethane) bolted up, I drilled two new holes for the 6mt mount. Next, I drilled a hole large enough for the 6mt transmission mount bolt through the center of two and a half hockey pucks.
The only thing I would do differently with this mounting solution is buy a longer bolt and a nut to include the back half of the trans mount on the chassis.
I would not recommend this method without having some sort of filled or polyurethane mounts, as having only one solid mount can lead to the mount bracket on the chassis failing.
Everything else in the swap was completed as usual.
Parts used for this swap:
Member Credit: schmellyfart
I’ve had this project on the back burner for the better part of the last year and a half, but it is finally done. 75mm tb on an A32 3.5 swap with a functioning IACV.
As expected throttle response is increased, but low speed driving requires more attention than before as the throttle only needs to be held open 1-2% to maintain speed at 45mph according to my scangaugeII. Though the twitchiness at low speeds could also be attributed to the throttle cable being mounted to the Chassis, rather than the engine – even though I have all 4 poly engine mounts.
Everything bead blasted and port matched
75mm Mustang on left, 70mm PFTB on right
Member Credit: 95naSTA
The point of this thread is to give people a heads up on what they’ll have to do to use the 07 Altima motor with the 3.0 timing. If you have the time/skill/money a full 3.5 swap will always out perform a hybrid setup. This is just for people that are lacking any of those and want something better than a typical hybrid swap.
Most importantly, this is for people who know how to read stickys. I will not be telling you how to do a hybrid swap. That info is already out there.
You still need to run spacers and drill the intake cams. If you’re wanting to run adapters, typical 3.5 swap adapters will not work. The spacers are for 3.5L swaps with 3.0 timing equipment. They can only be used with drilled intake cams or drilled primary and intake cam gears. These are not adapters.
Here’s where it gets a little interesting.
Researching this swap, the question came up of how the 3.0 timing equipment might alter the timing of the 3.5 cams. I found the exhaust lobe centers of cyls #1&2 on my old 1st gen 3.5 (03 max motor) with 3.0 timing and they were 122* BTDC for the rear bank and 119* for the front. This is about 10 crank degrees retarded from the stock VQ35’s cam numbers (112 BTDC exhaust lobe center line). I used a degree wheel on the crank pulley, the 3.0 outer timing cover arrow as a reference, and a dial indicator riding the lifter bucket to find max lift. IMO, this method is good +/-3 crank degrees but either way the exhaust cams are retarded.
Now for the intakes. The dowel pins actually point up when cyl #1 is TDC’d like they do on a VQ30. But, that dowel pin would make the intake timing 28 crank degrees retarded from where a stock 3.0 would be.
07 Alti intake cam in a jig made from a 3.0 intake cam
Using a dial indicator with snake extension as a pointer to measure how many degrees the cam timing would be off if I used the 07 Alti VQ35 factory dowel pin.
Set as VQ30 timing
Clocked to the factory dowel pin hole
So, 14 cam degrees or 28 crank degrees off.
What I’m doing is drilling through the VQ30 primary/secondary timing gears and cam for the new (longer like other hybrid swaps) dowel pin 180* opposite of the factory gear timing slots so that I’m not just egging out the 07 Alti dowel pin hole. The stock 07 Alti intake cam bolts need to be reused for the intakes too. The VQ30s are too long.
The above cam timing would net:
Strange the exhaust timing matches up pretty close with a 3.5 Pathfinder. Either way it should be good overall.
I’m going to be using an 09 Maxima upper intake and (converted) throttle body with this swap since both are larger. The p/ns for the lower intake on both cars are the same number. The 07 Alti’s could obviously used if the TB is converted too. Before the engine went back I made sure the 09 Max upper intake bolted up without issue. No problems.
The 07 Alti comes with dual knock sensors like the 09 Max.I unbolted both and put the VQ30DE knock sensor on rear bank.
The Altima has a quick connect fuel fitting like the 09 max. My car already has AN lines from the filter. So, I need to get that quick connect to -6AN. I ordered 3/8″ and 5/16″ quick connect adapters by Earl’s since I wasn’t sure what size the rail was. The 3/8″ came but the 5/16″ is on back order. 5/16″ is the correct size and the p/n is 799-644120.
I got the 5/16″ to AN fitting on but because of the collar before the quick connect on the rail, the part that screws into the fitting to secure it needed to be grinded down. I have to get the car running asap. So, I did the following with what I had:
The cyl 5/6 exhaust manifold studs swapped:
Drilled cams installed, Alti LIM and fuel rail installed with 380cc injectors, front of block prepped, and 07 Alti secondary tensioners primed. (Yes, the 07 Alti tensioners are used)
Shots of how the HR head went back to the VQ30 cam cap bolt pattern. So, no drilling of the inner timing cover is needed.
In my first post I mentioned how the stock 07 Alti intake cam dowel pin hole is close but not ideal timing. Instead of drilling near that hole and egging it out, I opted to drill roughly 180 from that hole through the primary and secondary cam gears and through the cam. This puts the dowel slots on the gears pointing in the right direction as if it were drilled like a typical 3.5 swap.
Removing the 3.0 windage tray since the 3.5 already one bolted to the caps/girdle.
Bolting the rest of the 4th gen crap back on
Close ups of the Alti oil cooler hose routing. The rear line needs to be bent slightly, the cooler sandwich is clocked counter clockwise from it’s stock orientation, the hardline that came with the engine has been bent slightly, 2 tabs removed, one re-drilled to bolt to the front of the upper oil pan with the a/c bracket, and a longer hose used from the sandwich to the hardline. A long rubber hose could replace the front hardline setup too. And the p/s belt clears no problem.
It’s ALIVE. This is as clean as this will ever be.. (notice the different rear main seal too)
Dirty but all together.
A couple other misc things with the swap:
I’ve yet to really push it but it idles good, runs smooth, and pulls good mid throttle. Somewhere in the near future I’m going to gut the upper and remove the VIAS valves. So, now we know how this is possible, not just that it is.
Owner: Abdala Fernandez
Color: Sage Mist Green (FS0)
Transmission: Automatic 4-Speed
Article Credit: Aaron Litchfield
Imagine seeing this car lined up at the track. At almost 20 years old and reconciled to shuffling grandma back and forth to church, most people don’t view a 1997 Maxima as a car that is a threat, or even a car that belongs at a drag strip. Add on top of that the fact that it has an automatic transmission, and you are likely to incite more than a few laughs. Abdala Fernandez, the owner and builder of this car, doesn’t care who is laughing at the beginning of the track, he is more concerned with who is laughing at the end, and more often than not, it’s him.
If the giant intercooler wasn’t a dead give-away, once you pop the hood you start to realize that this is a car that is very different from the stock 190whp grocery-getter Nissan designed. The engine was swapped with a more powerful and lighter VQ35DE. If that code looks familiar to you that is because it is the same engine code that you find in a 350z, just a front wheel drive version. The bottom end is built with ACL HX bearings, and Eagle H beam rods matched with Weisco 8.8:1 Pistons. A Nissan Rev Up oil pump replaces the stock for more reliable oiling, and the 3.5 block has been bored slightly to 96mm. The head bolts are stolen from a Nissan Juke, the headgasket is from a Vq35hr, the higher revving cousin of the VQ35DE. This combo keeps the all-important contact between the head and the block going strong even under relatively high amounts of boost pressure. The heads have been modified as well, VQ35HR valve springs replace their OEM counterparts and the valves have been lapped and adjusted by Abdala by grinding the buckets by hand. An NWP torque link connects the engine to the actual frame of the car, reducing engine movement.
The intake manifold has been replaced with a MotorDyne MREV2, this was then modified with a Methanol/Water (50/50) dual nozzle injection, a Hobb pressure switch dictates when the methanol is released. A MotorDyne 5/16 inch spacer separates it from the warmer lower intake manifold, and a NWP lower intake manifold spacer keeps the high heat of the engine block at bay. This is a tried-and-true technique of using spacers to reduce intake air temperatures, and to distribute air through the pistons more effectively.
An Aeromotive A1000 fuel pressure regulator keeps the fuel flowing correctly from the trunk mounted fuel cell. In addition to fuel, the fuel system is, as you can imagine, big. 1000cc Injector Dynamics fuel injectors mounted in an OBX fuel rail, pushed by a 450lph Walbro fuel pump gives this engine all the high-octane fuel it needs. Abdala decided to score the injection “hat trick” and get nitrous on board as well. A DynoTune nitrous system provides an 80whp wet shot of nitrous. From a dig this helps spool the large turbo faster, and is the primary purpose for using the giggle gas. Alternatively, should he deem it necessary, Emanage can let loose nitrous for the entire ¼ mile run.
The turbo is a BorgWarner S366 T4 Single Scroll .88AR pushing up to an impressive 21 pounds of boost, a Tial 50MM with a 15psi spring keeps the extra air venting into the atmosphere. Because of its mounting position, the radiator has been replaced with a much smaller 2 core radiator out of a Del Sol. A Treadstone Performance TR1035 intercooler keeps the compressed air chilled and dense. Controlling all this madness is a Greddy Emanage Ultimate that is hooked into a Turbosmart boost controller via a Mac Solenoid for a custom electronic boost control set up. Tuning this creation is done by none other than Abdala himself. Also, a J&S Ultra safeguard with matching knock gauge keep the engine safe by detecting even the faintest knock and disabling that specific cylinder until it can behave again.
The turbo manifolds are custom built by Abdala, and wrapped in titanium to help fight under hood temperatures. The car uses two downpipes, one used for the track which is a 3.5inch short pipe that exists the hood, hence the holes in the hood. For the street, a custom down pipe that routes to the back of the car then comes out of the passenger side rear door with a custom muffler that is based on a Dynomax VT. This has baffling inside that is very quiet when there is slow airflow, once an increase in airflow occurs the flaps open and it becomes a straight through muffler.
The taboo automatic transmission is a stock 4 speed Maxima Automatic with an EdgeRacing Highstall Converter, (3500 stall) and a IPT Performance Transmissions valvebody upgrade. A TRU-COOL MAX LPD47391 transmission cooler with two generic fans mounted on it is installed to keep the transmission cool. The cooler is mounted in stock gas tank position, hence the trunk mounted fuel cell. The transmission is controlled by SupraStick v4, which is a standalone transmission control module. A custom “manual shifter” which is a rod that sits near his right hand by the factory shifter allows him to easily pull on the rod to up shift, and push on it to downshift. He also has a switch that sets the transmission to automatic mode for normal driving. The TCM is also partly responsible for controlling the nitrous, when a shift is initiated it turns off the nitrous during the shift then activates it again in the next gear, this helps take load off the transmission and allows for easier shifts.
The suspension is handled by Tokico Illumina’s set to the firmest setting for improved launches. The front and rear springs are progress. A progress rear sway bar keeps the car from getting out of line. In keeping with the understated visuals, the wheels and tires are 17 inch rims from a 2002 Titanium Edition Maxima. When he goes to the track a set of Mickey Thomson 24.5×8 slicks grace the front end of the car. Hawk Hp+ brake pads are the only braking upgrade this sleeper needs.
The gauges that monitor this complicated engine are: Air/fuel, oil pressure (mechanical mounted on the hood of the car outside, visible from driver seat), coolant temperature, transmission temperature ( adjustable selection between coolant temperature/atf). J&S Ultra Safeguard knock gauge which shows knock counts and ignition retard.
The results of all this work and fabrication pay off with a blistering 11.326 second quarter mile time and a very respectable 127.15 mph trap speed. Abdala admits that he is happy with the time, but won’t be satisfied with the build until he cracks the ten second mark. With the amount of time and effort put into this car, it is just a matter of time until this sleepy old grocery getter achieves that goal, drops some jaws, breaks some hearts, and gives Abdala his last laugh. If you want to follow this car and see it in action, check out Abdala’s appropriately named Instagram “Streetzlegend.”