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my4thgen 95-99

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Member Credit: schmellyfart

I’m happy to say that I finally have a 6 speed swap under my belt now. This one was done on a buddies ’99 (deloa84), so I thought I’d show what I did differently than the procedure in the write ups. In my opinion my changes are cheaper and easier than the alternatives.

The main hurdles I’ve identified with the swap are the timing ring and the transmission mount.

For the timing ring, I drafted it up in my favorite CAD software and had it cut at a local machine shop. It is just a matter of unbolting the old ring off of a 6MT JWT Flywheel and bolting the new one on.

Next up is the transmission mount. I am a fan of being able to revert back to stock should the need arise, and this swap is no exception. It actually ended up being a lot easier than I had anticipated.

I used the stock 6mt mount bracket that bolts to the transmission, and ground the sides down a little. I also cut a bit of material off of the trans mount bracket attached to the frame rail. With the remaining three engine mounts (all are solid/polyurethane) bolted up, I drilled two new holes for the 6mt mount. Next, I drilled a hole large enough for the 6mt transmission mount bolt through the center of two and a half hockey pucks.

The only thing I would do differently with this mounting solution is buy a longer bolt and a nut to include the back half of the trans mount on the chassis.

I would not recommend this method without having some sort of filled or polyurethane mounts, as having only one solid mount can lead to the mount bracket on the chassis failing.

Everything else in the swap was completed as usual.

Parts used for this swap:

  • 02-03 HLSD Maxima 6MT
  • FWD JWT Flywheel with my custom timing ring
  • JWT Clutch
  • 02-03 Shifter Cables
  • 02-03 Shifter
  • Ralco STS
  • ES Shifter Bushings
  • One piece SS Clutch line

my4dsc: 34

Member Credit: schmellyfart

I’ve had this project on the back burner for the better part of the last year and a half, but it is finally done. 75mm tb on an A32 3.5 swap with a functioning IACV.

  • The TB is an aftermarket 75mm TB produced for a 86-93 Mustang, redrilled and clearanced to fit the VQ35DE TB bolt pattern, tb mounted upside down to make throttle cable routing a bt easier.
  • Throttle Cable bracket was fabbed from a random aluminum bracket I had previously removed from the car and bolted it to the firewall in place of the cruise control unit (for now).
  • The IACV is a VQ30DE-K IACV Housing with a Pathfinder IACV, mounted onto the TB with an adapter plate I fabbed up.
  • Throttle Cable Pulley is off of a VQ30DE.
  • I wasn’t thrilled with the way the original throttle cable return spring felt, so I replaced it with one from a B14. Note, this spring winds in the opposite direction than the VQ30DE throttle cable return spring.
  • The TPS is a stock 86-93 Mustang TPS wired up to a salvaged A32 TPS connector, making it plug and play.
  • No cruise control, unfortunately. I am currently looking into other 75mm TB where I can retain an IACV and CC.

As expected throttle response is increased, but low speed driving requires more attention than before as the throttle only needs to be held open 1-2% to maintain speed at 45mph according to my scangaugeII. Though the twitchiness at low speeds could also be attributed to the throttle cable being mounted to the Chassis, rather than the engine – even though I have all 4 poly engine mounts.

Before Portmatching



Everything bead blasted and port matched


75mm Mustang on left, 70mm PFTB on right


my4dsc: 67

Member Credit: 95naSTA

The point of this thread is to give people a heads up on what they’ll have to do to use the 07 Altima motor with the 3.0 timing. If you have the time/skill/money a full 3.5 swap will always out perform a hybrid setup. This is just for people that are lacking any of those and want something better than a typical hybrid swap.

Most importantly, this is for people who know how to read stickys. I will not be telling you how to do a hybrid swap. That info is already out there.

Findings:

  • The upper/lower oil pans, oil pick up tube, and dip stick need to be swapped to a VQ30 or manual trans VQ35 5th/6th gen since the exhaust tunnel isn’t as high and will interfere with the front bank’s exhaust.
  • Cylinders 5/6 need the exhaust manifold studs swapped diagonally to work with the older gen VQ35’s.
  • The older crank pulley needs to be swapped on.
  • There are two knock sensors, one for each bank. I’ll be bolting up a 4th gen sensor to the rear bank.
  • The grinding for the p/s pulley and flipping of the belt tensioner bolt aren’t necessary since the newer 3.5 covers created those issues and they’re not being used.
  • The line for the oil cooler has been moved from the thermostat housing to the font coolant tubes and the cooler has gotten larger. The larger cooler will work on both older 3.5 upper oil pans and 3.0s.

You still need to run spacers and drill the intake cams. If you’re wanting to run adapters, typical 3.5 swap adapters will not work. The spacers are for 3.5L swaps with 3.0 timing equipment. They can only be used with drilled intake cams or drilled primary and intake cam gears. These are not adapters.

Here’s where it gets a little interesting.

Researching this swap, the question came up of how the 3.0 timing equipment might alter the timing of the 3.5 cams. I found the exhaust lobe centers of cyls #1&2 on my old 1st gen 3.5 (03 max motor) with 3.0 timing and they were 122* BTDC for the rear bank and 119* for the front. This is about 10 crank degrees retarded from the stock VQ35’s cam numbers (112 BTDC exhaust lobe center line). I used a degree wheel on the crank pulley, the 3.0 outer timing cover arrow as a reference, and a dial indicator riding the lifter bucket to find max lift. IMO, this method is good +/-3 crank degrees but either way the exhaust cams are retarded.

Now for the intakes. The dowel pins actually point up when cyl #1 is TDC’d like they do on a VQ30. But, that dowel pin would make the intake timing 28 crank degrees retarded from where a stock 3.0 would be.

07 Alti intake cam in a jig made from a 3.0 intake cam

Using a dial indicator with snake extension as a pointer to measure how many degrees the cam timing would be off if I used the 07 Alti VQ35 factory dowel pin.

Set as VQ30 timing

Clocked to the factory dowel pin hole

So, 14 cam degrees or 28 crank degrees off.

What I’m doing is drilling through the VQ30 primary/secondary timing gears and cam for the new (longer like other hybrid swaps) dowel pin 180* opposite of the factory gear timing slots so that I’m not just egging out the 07 Alti dowel pin hole. The stock 07 Alti intake cam bolts need to be reused for the intakes too. The VQ30s are too long.

The above cam timing would net:

  • Intake__Duration: 240º
    Exhaust_Duration: 240º
  • Intake_Opens: 7º BTDC
    Intake_Closes: 53º ABDC
  • Exhaust_Opens: 47º BBDC
    Exhaust_Closes: 3º ATDC
  • Overlap: 10º

Strange the exhaust timing matches up pretty close with a 3.5 Pathfinder. Either way it should be good overall.

I’m going to be using an 09 Maxima upper intake and (converted) throttle body with this swap since both are larger. The p/ns for the lower intake on both cars are the same number. The 07 Alti’s could obviously used if the TB is converted too. Before the engine went back I made sure the 09 Max upper intake bolted up without issue. No problems.

Altima Manifold

Maxima Manifold

Stripped down:

The 07 Alti comes with dual knock sensors like the 09 Max.I unbolted both and put the VQ30DE knock sensor on rear bank.

The Altima has a quick connect fuel fitting like the 09 max. My car already has AN lines from the filter. So, I need to get that quick connect to -6AN. I ordered 3/8″ and 5/16″ quick connect adapters by Earl’s since I wasn’t sure what size the rail was. The 3/8″ came but the 5/16″ is on back order. 5/16″ is the correct size and the p/n is 799-644120.

I got the 5/16″ to AN fitting on but because of the collar before the quick connect on the rail, the part that screws into the fitting to secure it needed to be grinded down. I have to get the car running asap. So, I did the following with what I had:

The cyl 5/6 exhaust manifold studs swapped:

Drilled cams installed, Alti LIM and fuel rail installed with 380cc injectors, front of block prepped, and 07 Alti secondary tensioners primed. (Yes, the 07 Alti tensioners are used)

Shots of how the HR head went back to the VQ30 cam cap bolt pattern. So, no drilling of the inner timing cover is needed.

In my first post I mentioned how the stock 07 Alti intake cam dowel pin hole is close but not ideal timing. Instead of drilling near that hole and egging it out, I opted to drill roughly 180 from that hole through the primary and secondary cam gears and through the cam. This puts the dowel slots on the gears pointing in the right direction as if it were drilled like a typical 3.5 swap.

 

Removing the 3.0 windage tray since the 3.5 already one bolted to the caps/girdle.

Bolting the rest of the 4th gen crap back on

Close ups of the Alti oil cooler hose routing. The rear line needs to be bent slightly, the cooler sandwich is clocked counter clockwise from it’s stock orientation, the hardline that came with the engine has been bent slightly, 2 tabs removed, one re-drilled to bolt to the front of the upper oil pan with the a/c bracket, and a longer hose used from the sandwich to the hardline. A long rubber hose could replace the front hardline setup too. And the p/s belt clears no problem.

It’s ALIVE. This is as clean as this will ever be.. (notice the different rear main seal too)

Dirty but all together.

A couple other misc things with the swap:

  • The TB gasket mesh needs to be cut out if you’re pulling the TB cable from the top rear.
  • The bottom rad hose needs to be trimmed since the thermostat housing is a 90*.

I’ve yet to really push it but it idles good, runs smooth, and pulls good mid throttle. Somewhere in the near future I’m going to gut the upper and remove the VIAS valves. So, now we know how this is possible, not just that it is.

my4dsc: 145

Featuring the popular brands like BC Racing, Tein, JIC, Megan Racing, KSports,  D2 Racing, Truhart and many others.

my4dsc: 641

Owner: Abdala Fernandez

Year: 1997
Model: Maxima
Color: Sage Mist Green (FS0)
Transmission: Automatic 4-Speed
Trim: GLE

Article Credit: Aaron Litchfield

Imagine seeing this car lined up at the track.  At almost 20 years old and reconciled to shuffling grandma back and forth to church, most people don’t view a 1997 Maxima as a car that is a threat, or even a car that belongs at a drag strip.  Add on top of that the fact that it has an automatic transmission, and you are likely to incite more than a few laughs.  Abdala Fernandez, the owner and builder of this car, doesn’t care who is laughing at the beginning of the track, he is more concerned with who is laughing at the end, and more often than not, it’s him.

If the giant intercooler wasn’t a dead give-away, once you pop the hood you start to realize that this is a car that is very different from the stock 190whp grocery-getter Nissan designed.  The engine was swapped with a more powerful and lighter VQ35DE.  If that code looks familiar to you that is because it is the same engine code that you find in a 350z, just a front wheel drive version.  The bottom end is built with ACL HX bearings, and Eagle H beam rods matched with Weisco 8.8:1 Pistons. A Nissan Rev Up oil pump replaces the stock for more reliable oiling, and the 3.5 block has been bored slightly to 96mm.  The head bolts are stolen from a Nissan Juke, the headgasket is from a Vq35hr, the higher revving cousin of the VQ35DE.  This combo keeps the all-important contact between the head and the block going strong even under relatively high amounts of boost pressure.  The heads have been modified as well, VQ35HR valve springs replace their OEM counterparts and the valves have been lapped and adjusted by Abdala by grinding the buckets by hand.  An NWP torque link connects the engine to the actual frame of the car, reducing engine movement.

The intake manifold has been replaced with a MotorDyne MREV2, this was then modified with a Methanol/Water (50/50) dual nozzle injection, a Hobb pressure switch dictates when the methanol is released.  A MotorDyne 5/16 inch spacer separates it from the warmer lower intake manifold, and a NWP lower intake manifold spacer keeps the high heat of the engine block at bay.  This is a tried-and-true technique of using spacers to reduce intake air temperatures, and to distribute air through the pistons more effectively.

An Aeromotive A1000 fuel pressure regulator keeps the fuel flowing correctly from the trunk mounted fuel cell.  In addition to fuel, the fuel system is, as you can imagine, big.  1000cc Injector Dynamics fuel injectors mounted in an OBX fuel rail, pushed by a 450lph Walbro fuel pump gives this engine all the high-octane fuel it needs.  Abdala decided to score the injection “hat trick” and get nitrous on board as well.  A DynoTune nitrous system provides an 80whp wet shot of nitrous.  From a dig this helps spool the large turbo faster, and is the primary purpose for using the giggle gas.  Alternatively, should he deem it necessary, Emanage can let loose nitrous for the entire ¼ mile run.

The turbo is a BorgWarner S366 T4 Single Scroll .88AR pushing up to an impressive 21 pounds of boost, a Tial 50MM with a 15psi spring keeps the extra air venting into the atmosphere.  Because of its mounting position, the radiator has been replaced with a much smaller 2 core radiator out of a Del Sol.  A Treadstone Performance TR1035 intercooler keeps the compressed air chilled and dense.  Controlling all this madness is a Greddy Emanage Ultimate that is hooked into a Turbosmart boost controller via a Mac Solenoid for a custom electronic boost control set up. Tuning this creation is done by none other than Abdala himself.  Also, a J&S Ultra safeguard with matching knock gauge keep the engine safe by detecting even the faintest knock and disabling that specific cylinder until it can behave again.

The turbo manifolds are custom built by Abdala, and wrapped in titanium to help fight under hood temperatures. The car uses two downpipes, one used for the track which is a 3.5inch short pipe that exists the hood, hence the holes in the hood. For the street, a custom down pipe that routes to the back of the car then comes out of the passenger side rear door with a custom muffler that is based on a Dynomax VT.  This has baffling inside that is very quiet when there is slow airflow, once an increase in airflow occurs the flaps open and it becomes a straight through muffler.

The taboo automatic transmission is a stock 4 speed Maxima Automatic with an EdgeRacing Highstall Converter, (3500 stall) and a IPT Performance Transmissions valvebody upgrade.  A TRU-COOL MAX LPD47391 transmission cooler with two generic fans mounted on it is installed to keep the transmission cool. The cooler is mounted in stock gas tank position, hence the trunk mounted fuel cell.  The transmission is controlled by SupraStick v4, which is a standalone transmission control module.  A custom “manual shifter” which is a rod that sits near his right hand by the factory shifter allows him to easily pull on the rod to up shift, and push on it to downshift.  He also has a switch that sets the transmission to automatic mode for normal driving.  The TCM is also partly responsible for controlling the nitrous, when a shift is initiated it turns off the nitrous during the shift then activates it again in the next gear, this helps take load off the transmission and allows for easier shifts.

The suspension is handled by Tokico Illumina’s set to the firmest setting for improved launches. The front and rear springs are progress.  A progress rear sway bar keeps the car from getting out of line.  In keeping with the understated visuals, the wheels and tires are 17 inch rims from a 2002 Titanium Edition Maxima.  When he goes to the track a set of Mickey Thomson 24.5×8 slicks grace the front end of the car.  Hawk Hp+ brake pads are the only braking upgrade this sleeper needs.

The gauges that monitor this complicated engine are: Air/fuel, oil pressure (mechanical mounted on the hood of the car outside, visible from driver seat), coolant temperature, transmission temperature ( adjustable selection between coolant temperature/atf). J&S Ultra Safeguard knock gauge which shows knock counts and ignition retard.

The results of all this work and fabrication pay off with a blistering 11.326 second quarter mile time and a very respectable 127.15 mph trap speed.  Abdala admits that he is happy with the time, but won’t be satisfied with the build until he cracks the ten second mark.  With the amount of time and effort put into this car, it is just a matter of time until this sleepy old grocery getter achieves that goal, drops some jaws, breaks some hearts, and gives Abdala his last laugh.  If you want to follow this car and see it in action, check out Abdala’s appropriately named Instagram “Streetzlegend.”

Additional Photos:

Videos

 

 

 

my4dsc: 1096

This is a gallery of Secret Sauce Intake Manifold (SSIM) Setups. The SSIM (Secret Sauce Intake Manifold) was created years ago by member SR20DEN. This involves cutting the shelf out of the main chamber of the upper intake manifold and removing the VIAS assembly. This will still lose a little low end power, but the gains in the top end are very noticeable. It’s definitely a modification that is worthwhile.

 

my4dsc: 152

Member Credit: Unklejoe / EddyMaxx

Every 99-03 Maxima uses the same PIN for the NATS. The pin is “5523“. This is the default “master” PIN. 

This means that you can use a BlaZt cable to re-initialize the NATS on any Maxima of those years. This is particularly useful for those who have to replace their ECU and don’t feel like going to the dealership and dropping $100 to get the ECU programmed to their key/immo (or those who simply want to add more keys to their car).

More Info on Nissan Datascan & ODB2 Cable: https://www.my4dsc.com/nissan-datascan-ii-aka-the-affordable-nissan-consult/

Normally, the PIN is provided to you when you buy the car but most people lose it. Well, now you can finally add your own keys to the car and/or re-program a used ECU’s to the car.

For those who don’t know the PIN, the PIN can be decoded using a software called “Nissan SuperCode”. The software requires the serial number from the BCM that the ECU came from. It will then provide the PIN. The only problem is that when you buy an ECU from a junkyard, they usually don’t provide/know the BCM serial number from the car that the ECU came from. Normally, you’d have to go to the dealer so they can decode it, but now that I discovered this “master” PIN, you can do it yourself!

The following cars all use the same “5523” default PIN:

  • Nissan Altima 2001-2004
  • Nissan Maxima 1999-2003
  • Nissan Pathfinder 2001-2004
  • Nissan Sentra 2000-2005
  • Nissan 350Z < 2002
  • Nissan X-Terra 2003-2004
  • Infinity QX4 2001-2004
  • Infinity QX45 2002
  • Infinity Q45 2001-2005
  • Infinity G20 2000-2002
  • Infinity I30 / I35 2001-2005

Video Walkthrough

my4dsc: 199

Member Credit: Kevlo911

I bet over 75% of 4th gen owners have a leaking steering rack and/or worn tie rods. I bought the 99se rack because it is stiffer. It comes with new inner tie rods and new o-rings. You should replace the outer tie rods and sway bar. bushings at the same time.

As for the how to:

  • Loosen lugs
  • Jack up and put the car on jack stands.
  • Remove wheels
  • Remove outer tie rods(I did not and paid for it  ) – You need to rent the outer tie rod removal tool from
  • AutoZone to do this.
  • Remove the bolt on top of the sway bar end link and the 2 bolts on the bracket that holds the “inner” bushing in.
  • Move the sway bar up and wiggle it out from the passenger side.

Remove the ypipe (rent the o2 removal tool)
As you can see, I forgot to rent the tool. Now the fun part. Crossmember. Remove the engine mount bolts, in the rear I used a long 10in extension to get to the bolt from the engine bay(intake removed). Front engine mount you need an open end wrench on one side and a socket on the other(or two sockets…) I supported the engine with a jack and a 2×4. If you have a tranny jack it would be better. Remove the 2 bolts in the front and rear(4total bolts) on the cross member and it will drop down. You can replace the mounts right now if you want too.

See a plate covering this mount on the rack. It is behind the rear header and is held on by three 10mm screws. Remove it.
Now remove the fluid lines, have something to catch the fluid(I had a trash can lid). Remove these from the engine bay, it is much easier that way.
Use a 14mm open end wrech to get the bottom one. On the top one, remove the hose and swap the nipple on the new rack once it is out of the car.
Remove those nuts. Now you will see the spindle, there is a 12mm nut holding it on the spindle of the rack. Make sure the steering wheel is strait before you remove it.

Remove the bolts holding on the rack now. One mount is pictured above, other you will see when you are down there.

You will remove the rack from the middle, it will NOT slide out from the sides(I found out the hard way). You will move it towards the pass side and then drop it down in the middle. You will install it the same way. I also installed new bushing on the rack, I got MOOG bushings from rockauto.com

You will soon find out the spindle does not want to go into the joint. You will have to bang on top of the joint to get it on the spindle. I used my tq wrech and breaker bar to bang it in. I didnt have a rubber mallet(I did this with the rack mounts partially in, only the lower nuts were in). Rest is the reversal.
Next you get it aligned… I still have to do this, my wheel is cocked to the right.

This will take all day and would be much easier with air tools. But I saved about $800-1,200 bucks labor by doing myself and I now have a stiffer and better feeling steering system.

my4dsc: 37