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my4thgen 95-99

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Below is the information seen in the Nissan factory service manual (FSM) for 2002-2008 VQ35DE Nissan Maxima’s. This information can be found in the “ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM SECTION – LU” section of the factory service manual.

Engine speed PSI
Idle speed 14 psi
2,000 rpm  43 psi

 

my4dsc: 24

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Member Credit: http://lighter.maxdes.net/

* Means that the track car has done part or all of the step.  Other numbers have come from research and other maxima.org members that have kindly donated their numbers.

Specs/Weight from a 1996 Nissan Maxima (These weights are without fluids):

  • GLE 2982lb (extra weight items include the moonroof, climate control, automatic, dual power seats, BOSE, heavier wheels)
  • GXE 2886lb (bare bones 5 speed)
  • SE 2895lb (bare bones 5 speed)

Stage 1: (Still an everyday car.)

  • Aftermarket y-pipe (15lbs)*
  • UR or RVM UDP (3lbs)
  • Aftermarket Cat-back (5-10lbs)*
  • Remove Carpeting, cardboard, and everything else in trunk (6lbs)*
  • Remove Plate Under Steering Wheel. (2lbs)*
  • Remove support bar behind glove box. (2lbs)*
  • Remove plate behind back seat (6lbs)*
  • Remove Sound deadening under hood. (2lbs)*
  • Remove handles on ceiling (1lb)*
  • Miscellaneous bolts due to removing things. (2lbs)*
  • Aftermarket Cat (2lbs)*
  • Lighter rim/tire combo (I have not personally fulfilled this with my 18”s, but it really does help.) (Varies)
  • Aluminum Flywheel (12lbs)*
  • Swap stock seat for ultra light racing seat (32lbs each/64lbs total)
  • Swap out hood for CF hood (29lbs)
  • Change body to CF (Bumpers, fenders) (Fiberglass Bumper 5-10lbs , Fiberglass Fender 12-18lbs)
  • Ground Control Coilovers (34lbs)*
  • Floor mats (Can switch to diamond plated and still save (3lbs) or remove for (10lbs)
  • Switch from glass headlights to plastic (95/96-97-99) (4lbs)
  • Stock Fog lights (6lbs)*
  • Lighter Battery (Varies)
  • Replace Stock antenna with aftermarket(2lbs) (Get rid of antenna all together 4.5lbs)*
  • Fast Brakes Kit (Those with at least 16” rims) (32lbs)

Total Savings of Stage 1: 229lbs-+274.5lbs

Stage 2: (Even more, maybe for track use.)

  • Remove Visors (3lbs)*
  • Remove rear view mirror
  • Underbody Plastics (Total of 15lbs, to include under engine and in fender wells)*
  • All non-essential hoses air boxes and other things Removed from engine (Net weight of 10lbs)*
  • Trunk arms (Things that hold up trunk when open) (2lbs)*
  • Extra bar in front bumper (97-99)
  • Windshield wipers (2lbs w/out motor 7lbs w/ motor)
  • Side view mirrors (5lbs)
  • Owners Manual (1lb)
  • Headrests (3lbs)
  • Underbody hitches (4lbs)
  • Brake dust shields (3lbs)
  • Remove Jack (4lbs)*
  • Remove Metal piece that holds jack (2lbs)*
  • Remove Spare Tire (May be included in stage one, if not afraid of flat tires.) (28lbs)*
  • Remove Heat Shielding for exhaust system (8lbs)*
  • Remove Sound Deadening under carpet (aka tar) (So far removed 13lbs)*
  • Remove Back seat (30lbs)*
  • Remove Passenger Seat (48lbs)*
  • Remove interior panels (per panel 3-4lbs)*
  • Remove ceiling (7lbs)*
  • Remove Carpet (12lbs)*
  • Remove Unnecessary dash pieces (approx 2lbs but could be more)*
  • Remove AC (~33lbs)*
  • Remove Power steering (Papasmurf does not recommend doing this one)
  • Remove all seat belts accept for driver (10lbs)*
  • Swap out steering wheel for aftermarket (3lbs)*
  • Remove airbags (May be illegal.) (Just driver side total of 12lbs w/ passenger 26lbs)*
  • Remove e-brake and all components
  • Remove Stereo, speakers and all sound components. (approx. for factory 18lbs)
  • Remove power windows and locks.
  • Cruise Control System (1lb)*
  • Remove Rear Heating Ducts (3lbs)*
  • Replace Gas Tank with Aluminum Fuel Cell (Weight reduction will be different depending on size of tank)
  • Replace sunroof with solid plexiglass roof (Will weigh less than even cars without sunroofs)
  • Cutout unneeded metal
  • Cutout spare tire well and replace over with sheet metal

Total Savings of Stage 2: 294lbs-317+lbs *Will be much more once all the items’ weights are included.

Total Savings of both stages: 523lbs-591.5+lbs *Will be much more once all the items’ weights are included.

Things to Remember:

  • Gas in tank (6lbs/gallon)
  • Water in windshield reservoir (8.3lbs/gallon)

Special thanks to ptatohed, Papasmurf, Dave B, and Nealoc187. 

Screen Prints (Courtesy of ajcool2)

 

my4dsc: 115

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Member Credit: VQpower

The thermostat regulates the flow of coolant within the engine. At low coolant temps, it stays closed. As the engine warms, it opens to allow coolant to flow through the radiator and cool the engine.

It’s located on the left side of the engine, here:

If it becomes clogged with deposits it can malfunction. If it sticks closed, coolant will never flow through the radiator and the engine will quickly overheat. If it sticks open, coolant will always flow through the radiator and the car will take a very long time to warm up fully.

The replacement part is $15.99 from AutoZone and includes a new stat mounted in a new housing and gasket.

To change the thermostat:
Drain the coolant
Remove the coolant recovery bottle
Remove the windshield washer fluid filler neck (it pops out)
Remove the hose clamp and radiator hose from the T-stat
Remove three 10mm nuts holding the T-stat and the old gasket

Installation is the reverse of removal.

my4dsc: 10

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Member Credit: Mishmosh

Typically, the water pump will need to be removed due to the water pump failing or the water pump O-ring seals (2) failing with age. You may get coolant leaking from the weep hole toward the front of the engine with the inner seal failing. Some will warn that the use of silicate-containing antifreeze will ultimately cause injury to the water pump impeller. If your seals are the only faulty items, it is possible to order the two seals separately and to re-install the old pump. However, the water pump replacement is technically difficult owing to the limited space with which you have to work, so for the sake of piece of mind, it may be just as well to replace the entire water pump. Some 4th generation Maxima’s also suffered from faulty timing chain tensioners and some would argue that the part can become “tired” over time (mainly the inner spring), so you can elect to replace the timing chain tensioner as well since it will have to be removed anyways.

Tools:

  • Metric box-and-open ended wrench set — I highly recommend a ratcheting wrench set (ie. GearWrench)
  • Metric socket wrench set — standard 3/8″ will suffice but the smaller profile 1/4″ set will be better.
  • Telescoping magnet — you do not want anything falling into the timing chain cover. When removing hardware, apply the magnet so nothing is dropped accidentally, or if it does, you can hopefully fish out the part.
  • Telescoping mirror (optional)
  • RTV sealant — needed to reseal the tensioner and water pump covers
  • Two M8 x 40mm bolts — for “jacking” out the water pump

Water Pump Removal

The water pump is driven by the timing chain, so removal requires removing the timing chain tensioner to create slack in the chain.

(1)  Jack up the front end and place jack stands. Remove the passenger side wheel and plastic splash guard. Drain the coolant — save the coolant in a bucket for reuse if it is still relatively new.

(2)  Identify and remove the timing chain tensioner access cover and water pump access cover attached to the (passenger side) timing chain cover. They are boxy, outwardly bulging, black metal covers, each attached by four 10mm screws, as seen the centers of the pics below. You will have to gently pry them off because of the gasket sealant applied around the edges. The timing chain tensioner access cover (below, left) is rearward of the motor mount whilst the water pump access cover (below, right) is in front of the motor mount. Note that the water pump access cover is obstructed by the alternator tensioner pulley (removed in pic)–this will need to be removed along with the belt by loosing the center nut of the pulley, loosing tension on the belt, and then the three bolts on the bracket. Because the pulley will be removed from the bracket, be sure to make note of re-install order of the nut and washers before and after the pulley. Removing the power steering belt is optional: it is more work but may make the job easier by creating more room around the timing chain tensioner area.

   

Here’s a pic of the alternator belt tensioner pulley removed:

(3)  Remove the timing chain tensioner.

First, familiarize yourself with the position and components of the timing chain tensioner. You can see it from the acute angle you have looking down into the open access port but I used a telescopic mirror to get a better view of the tensioner as shown below. The second picture is of the timing chain tensioner removed. Pay particular attention to the spring-loaded piston. You first must remove the two long retaining bolts (10mm) and then keeping your thumb on the piston to keep it from springing out, carefully remove the tensioner as one unit. If you let the piston shoot out (as in the picture, right), you run the risk of having the spring or the piston fall down into the timing chain cover which you must avoid AT ALL COSTS. Also note that the long bolts have washers which have the potential to fall in as well so pay attention to remove the bolts horizontally until they are removed from the cover area. With the timing chain tensioner removed, you will now see the timing chain tensioner guide fall into view. Now turn the crank pulley counterclockwise roughly 20 degrees to create chain slack on the water pump. Note: some will say that removal of the tensioner is NOT required to create slack on the timing chain; that only compressing the piston and holding it back with a pin/paper clip is sufficient. However, this was no where near sufficient for me when I tried this. Also, some have suggested putting a mechanic’s towel or a sheet of aluminum foil down to block any possibility of anything falling into the timing chain cover.

   

(4) Remove the water pump.

There are three 10mm bolts with washers holding the water pump in place. Remove these, again being VERY careful not to drop these short bolts or their washers down into the timing chain cover. Then use the M8 x 40mm bolts to jack the water pump out (see pic below, left). The top and the bottom holes (that you just removed the retaining bolts from) are also threaded for the M8,1.25 bolt. Take successive turns tightening the screws, no more than one full revolution each. As the pump gradually starts to come out, be sure to lift the timing chain off the gear teeth on the water pump so that the timing chain does not become damaged. Once the water pump is far enough out that you can move the unit by hand, remove the two M8 bolts because there is not enough clearance to remove the pump with them still in place. The just turn and wiggle the pump at different angles up and out of the tight space. Do not be surprised to see a gush of coolant spill out from behind the water pump and down into the timing cover. Loosening the water pump coolant drain bolt minimizes the spillage but it is still pretty significant. You will need to drain and refill the oil at this point because of this.

   

(4)  Drain and replace engine oil/filter.

Water Pump Installation

(5)  Install the water pump.

Place the new inner and outer O-ring seals on your new or reused water pump. Coat the seals with coolant. Once again, turn and rotate the water pump into position–paying particular attention NOT to let the new seals come into accidental contact with any metal surface or they can be easily damaged–and very gently push into place. While doing this, you will have to push the limp timing chain up and out of the way. Reinstall the 4 short retaining bolts with washers, again being careful not to drop anything into the timing chain cover. Make sure the timing chain falls clearly over the teeth of the water pump gear and turn the crank pulley 20 degrees clockwise to tighten up the timing chain Again, verify that the gear teeth are firmly engaged with the timing chain.

(6)  Install the timing chain tensioner.

To reinstall the timing chain tensioner, you must “cock” the piston all the way into the tensioner body and prevent it from “unloading” by inserting a pin or a small paper clip end into the small pin-sized side hole near the front opening. I would recommend attaching a string to the pin or paper clip in the event that it should fall out and accidentally fall into the timing chain cover. Next, you must position the cocked tensioner back into position by pulling back on the timing chain guide which has since fallen in the way. Then reinstall the two long retaining bolts. This can be frustrating because of the limited space and because this is mainly done by feel. Again (I can’t say this enough), do not let the bolts or their washers to fall into the timing chain cover and be careful not to accidentally pull the pin/paper clip out, unloading the tensioner. Once successfully bolted up, you can then remove the pin/paper clip. The piston should pop out and contact it’s similarly cylindrical counterpart on the chain tensioner guide.

(7)  Replace covers.

First clean both timing chain tensioner and water pump access covers and mating surfaces on the timing chain cover of any old gasket material. Use a degreaser (I used brake cleaner) to make sure no oil residues have fouled the surfaces. Apply high-temp RTV gasket sealant (ie. Permatex) to the cover borders and reattach and bolt securely. Note: this can be quite difficult and messy because of the limited space–have paper towels or cleaning wipes handy! Allow the sealant sufficient time to cure.

(8)  Final steps.

Replace alternator belt and tensioner pulley. Replace coolant. I would recommend filling the coolant reservoir a little ABOVE the “max” line in anticipation that a significant amount will be drawn into the cooling system to replenish the coolant that was lost to spillage when the pump was removed.

Start up the car. Do NOT be alarmed to hear a horrific chain rattling noise. The noise will eventually quiet but may not go away even when idling for a while. Rest assured that the noise will go completely away after a short drive around the block. You may also hear a gurgling/bubbling sound as the water pump is pumping coolant AND some air in the system. After a long drive to get the engine nice and warm (consider turning the heater on to speed the flow of coolant), recheck the level of the coolant reservoir and add coolant if necessary. NEVER remove the radiator cap when the engine is still warm.

NOTES:

To create more working room, it is also optional to remove the passenger side motor mount. You can also remove the power steering reservoir to move the hose out of the way. As was previously mentioned, you can also remove the power steering belt. Lastly, it is also possible that removing the crank pulley will also create more working room. All these require a little more time but may be worth it if you need the extra room ie. big hands, etc.

my4dsc: 18

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Owner: Jose Vargas

Year: 1999
Model: Maxima
Color: Sterling Mist Gray
Transmission: Auto to Manual 5-Speed
Trim: SE

 

  

Full Mod List / Specs:

  • V2 SuperCharger Kit 13PSI
  • Blitz BOV
  • Walbro Fuel Pump
  • 350Z Fuel Injectors
  • Cattman Headers
  • Apexi Exhaust System
  • Short Ram Air-Intake
  • 00vi Intake Manifold (Port & Polished)
  • Grounding Kit
  • Lightweight UDP
  • Fidanza Light Flywheel
  • Stage 3 Spec Clutch
  • 1-piece Stainless Steel Clutch Line from MC to Slave Cylinder
  • ES inserts (Polyurethane Front & Rear Mount Inserts)
  • Left & Right Polyurethane Filled Mounts
  • 5-Speed Swap Done in Jan 2007
  • Eibach Springs – Front 1.5 Rear 1.3
  • KYB GR-2 shocks
  • Front Strut Bar
  • Rear Strut Bar
  • Rear Sway Bar
  • Eibach Pro Alignment Kit
  • Energy Suspension Front Control Arm
  • Front Sway Bar
  • Subframe Bushings
  • 18″ Azul rims
  • 300ZX Big Brake Upgrade (4-Piston 30MM Aluminum Calipers in Blue)
  • 13″ Cobra Rotors Drilled/Slotted
  • SS Brake Lines
  • Stillen Front Lip
  • Stillen Rear Skirts
  • Sarona Side Skirts
  • JDM Headlights
  • H.I.D Headlights Deep Blue
  • H.I.D Foglights Golden Yellow (Rewired to work with park lights)
  • LED Tail Lights
  • M3 fender inserts
  • Shaved Trrunk
  • Triple Gauge Pod
  • Cobalt Autometer gauges (Water, Oil, Voltage)
  • Brushed Aluminum Dash Trim Kit
  • Blue Gauges
  • LED Dome
  • V-AFC2
  • Kenwood Radio

my4dsc: 134

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This is a gallery of 1995-1999 4thgen Maxima LED Tail Lights.

my4dsc: 95

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Member Credit: Justin Gadlage aka jgadlage

This post will go into detail about the Maxima that you have either heard about or seen in the movie “The Fast and the Furious”. Below is a rundown of what has been done to this car and a little bit of history behind it.

Photos:

FEATURES:

  • Stillen Supercharger
  • Dodge Viper GTS Blue paint
  • Reverse mounted louvered hood
  • 13-inch AP Racing brakes with 6 piston calipers
  • Stillen Suspension and strut tower bars
  • 18-inch HP Racing chrome wheels mounted on Toyo tires
  • $20,000 audio system which includes 3 TV’s, DVD player, Playstation, 5 JBL Amps, and 3 12-inch JBL W12GTi subwoofers
  • Interior neon and strobe lights
  • Under body blue neon kit
  • Stillen body kit
  • Custom exhaust system
  • Blue carbon fiber dash kit
  • Autographed by the actor
  • 30,000 original miles with air conditioning, tilt steering wheel,
    factory moonroof, and heated leather seats with blue suede
    upgrades.

CAR HISTORY:

The car was owned by Craig Lieberman, Technical Advisor to the movie. The car was purchased new in 1999 as a daily driver. After undergoing some mild modifications, the car went under the knife for a complete makeover in the Spring of 2000. Dodge Viper GTS blue paint was sprayed over the Stillen-enhanced body. With a custom reverse-mount hood (like a Viper), the car was the most modified Maxima known at the time.

For performance modifications, the car went to the leader in Nissan performance, Stillen, who added their supercharger kit and other accessories, including a Formula one braking system from AP Racing. The car produced 221 hp to the wheels. A Veilside carbon fiber wing and Bomex side mirrors from Japan round out the car’s exterior styling.

For the interior, Trimmasters provided a one-off blue carbon fiber dash kit  and Stitchcraft provided the upholstery work. A $20,000 In-car electronics system comprised of extensive Audio/video component was installed as a Clarion/JBL/Infinity joint venture with the latest offerings from each company finding their way into the car. The car’s three huge JBL W12Gti woofers weigh more than 20 lbs. each with a special support system needed. The car’s five JBL amplifiers produce more than 4000 watts and required two additional batteries to support the electrical load.

Other lighting and trim accessories were provided by Toucan/Ractive/Eurolite and can be found throughoutthe car. The engine compartment was dressed by Hose Techniques. Motegi Ro_Ja wheels were produced just for this car and custom suspension work was done by Ractive.

The car was used by the character Vince” played by Matt  Schulze in the movie.The car was used in a few action and chase sequences. The car’s performance mods were performed by Stillen in preparation for the movie. One sequence in the movie, a fight scene between “Brian” and “Vince” damaged the quarter panel and doors. The studio repaired and restored the car to perfection.

The car was valued at $75,000 during this time and era. 

PERFORMANCE STATS:

  • Produces 265 Horsepower @ 6,100 rpms
  • Maximum engine speed is 6,900 rpms
  • Does 0-60 in 7.1 seconds
  • Does 0-100 in 15.4 seconds
  • 1/4 mile in reached in 14.5 seconds at 98 mph
  • Top speed is 145 mph
  • Pulls .89 g’s on the skidpad
  • Ran a slalom course at 66 mph
  • Curb weight is 3,895 lbs

ENGINE: 

  • $ 4,500 Stillen/Vortech Supercharger kit (231 fwhp)
  • $ 350 Stillen Downpipe
  • $ 300 Stillen Custom Exhaust
  • $ 350 Stillen Air Intake
  • $ 300 RACTive muffler
  • $ 1,200 AEBS SDS Engine Management System
  • $ 120 NGK Iridium Spark Plugs
  • $ 150 Hose Techniques Silicone Hose Kit

STYLING 

  • $ 5,200 Dodge Viper GTS Metallic Blue Paint
  • $ 1,200 Stillen full urethane body kit
  • $ 600 Custom reverse-mounted hood
  • $ 250 HKS cupholder-mounted boost gauge
  • $ 250 Sir Michael’s reverse-punched hood louver system
  • $ 1,000 Ractive/Eurolite/Toucan neon lighting / various strobe / accessories
  • $ 450 VehicleLighting.com HID driving lights

SUSPENSION/BRAKES:

  • $ 2,900 Stillen/AP Racing 13-inch Super Touring Pro Race Brake
    System (Front)
  • $ 300 Stillen Sports Rotors (Rear)
  • $ 300 Stillen Strut Tower Bars, front and rear
  • $ 500 Stillen Sway Bar Kit
  • $ 795 Stillen Struts
  • $ 350 Eibach/Stillen Pro Kit Springs

IN-CAR ELECTRONICS:

  •  $ 1,800 Clarion VRX610 In-dash AM/FM/CD Controller with 6.4 inch LCD TV
  • $ 1,200 2 Clarion VMA7191 7 inch Widescreen TV’s
  • $ 1,300 Clarion VS715 Single DIN In-Dash DVD/CD/MP3 Player
  • $ 550 Clarion DPH7500 DSP/EQ
  • $ 350 Clarion RDC655T 6 Disc Changer
  • $ 450 Clarion TTX7501 TV Tuner
  • $ 800 3 JBL W12Gti 12 inch Woofers
  • $ 800 2 sets Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 Separates
  • $ 3,000 3 JBLP1200.1 1200 watt x 1 channel Amps
  • $ 900 2 JPL 80.4 80 watts x 4 channel Amps
  • $ 400 2 Optima Gel Cell batteries
  • $ 8,500 System design and installation

TIRES/WHEELS: 

  • $ 1,200 Yokohama 235/40/ZR18 AVS S1 Tires
  • $ 1,200 TSW Trophy Wheels

INTERIOR:

  •  $ 1,000 Stitchcraft interior trim
  • $ 350 Torasport carbon fiber dash kit
  • $ 500 AEBS custom roll cage

Video Scenes:

 

my4dsc: 480

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Owner: Matt Carey

Social Media:

Year: 1996
Model: Maxima
Color: Black
Transmission: 6-Speed HSLD
Trim: GXE

What motivated you to MOD your Maxima?

Wanted to push it to the limits and have the freshest cleanest Maxima out there. – Matt Carey

Full Mod List / Specs:

  • VQ35DE Motor Swap
  • Vortech V2 supercharger
  • HSLD 6-speed Swap
  • Unorthodox Underdrive Pulley
  • Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator
  • Kinetix Intake Manifold
  • 600cc Injectors
  • AEM Methanol Kit
  • Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
  • Greddy e-Manage Ultimate
  • Fidanza Lightweight Flywheel
  • ACT Stage 6 Puck Extreme Pressure Plate
  • OBX V2 Long Tube Headers with Equal Length Y-Pipe
  • Full 3″ Exhaust
  • Ksport Coilovers
  • Polyurethane Engine Mounts and Control Arm Bushings a
  • Sway Bar Bushings
  • 350z Steering Wheel
  • 350z Power Leather Seats
  • I30 Rear Seats
  • Cefiro Headlights
  • 350z Anniversary Wheels
  • Stillen Front Lip
  • 97′ Front Conversion
  • 97′ Rear Conversion
  • Pioneer Double-Din head Unit
  • JL Audio Amp with JL Audio Sub

my4dsc: 134

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Owner: Nick Gopaul

Social Media:

Year: 1995
Model: Maxima
Color: Black Emerald (DJ2)
Transmission: Manual 5-Speed
Trim: SE

What motivated you to MOD your Maxima?

I’ve always loved the Nissan Maxima…specifically the 4th gen. When the 4th gen was first released in 1995, I liked it from then. When the first Fast and Furious movie came out, I was hooked on it. I bought mine from an older gentlemen, and joined Maxima.org, Torontomaxima.com, an NYCMaximas.org shortly after. After seeing all the builds, it wasn’t long before I started changing things, although they were mostly cosmetic for the longest time.

After owning it for almost 9 years, I decided that she needed to be faster, so I made it happen. – Nick Gopaul

Photos before the transformation:

Full Mod List / Specs:

Engine/Transmission:
  • Stock VQ30DE motor
  • 00VI with 5th gen injectors/rail/lower intake
  • 4th gen IACV
  • V2 Vortech Supercharger (11PSI)
  • Stillen plate
  • Stillen charge pipe
  • Blitz BOV
  • K&N Pancake filter
  • Manual adjust FPR
  • Walbro 255 fuel pump
  • Mishimoto aluminum rad
  • Vibrant silicon vacuum lines, and couplers
  • Cat-less Y-pipe
  • Magnaflow high-flow cat with full 3” custom exhaust
  • Mild wire tuck
  • Optima yellow top battery
  • Solid torque mounts
  • Stock 5-speed manual transmission
  • 350Z clutch
  • Rebuilt & Strengthened Axles
Suspension & Brakes:
  • Ksport Kontrol Pro coilover suspension kit
  • Moog lower control arms
  • Moog swaybar end links
  • Moog tie rod ends
  • Custommaxima.com Front strut tower brace
  • Aadco rear sway bar
  • Wilwood 4-piston BBK with 13” rotors
  • Rear OEM pads & rotors
  • Stainless steel brake lines
  • Synthetic brake fluid
Body & Interior
  • Front end repaint (no more stone chips)
  • Full front end paint protection film wrap
  • Full Stilen lip kit
  • Blacked out bumper lights
  • Rear “David L” red/clears
  • Custom TLM projector retrofitted headlights with “nismo” logo
  • 6k HIDs top and bottom
  • Crystal corner lights
  • 18% tint all around
  • Chrome gauge rings
  • Tripple gauge A-pillar pod (AFR, Boost, Oil pressure)
  • LED Converted cluster and climate controls
  • Compustar 2-way alarm system with remote start
  • Pioneer Premier double din head unit
  • Alpine Type-R components front/rear
  • 3 Alpine amplifier setup

 

my4dsc: 91

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Member Credit: Matt Blehm

Please note that this post is for reference and documentation purposes ONLY. Matt Blehm no longer offers these products or services. Products were available from 2003 to around 2009.

Lower Tie Bar: Now for 89-2003 Maxima, and B14 200SX/Sentra!

This part is designed to tie the front suspension together to provide sharper steering response and better handling overall.

These parts are powdercoated black. If you would like other colors, I can do it, but buyer will be responsible for additional charges.

Stage I

This is a bar that ties together the bolts on the front lower control arm gussets, providing sharper steering response and less chassis flex in corners. Handling improvements are very similar to installing a strut tower brace, which you can also add on the top of the suspension to tie the front end together really well!

The only drawback is that you lose a bit of ground clearance- but since it sits between the front wheels, the only time you might have a problem is when driving over extremely uneven surfaces. I have had the Stage II bar (see below) on my car for six months now and have only scraped it three times- all of which could have been prevented had I been paying more attention while going over extremely rough roads.

The price for the Stage I lower tie bar is $65, plus shipping- a VERY worthwhile and affordable mod!

Stage II

This one is a bit more complex. It bolts onto an additional frame mount behind the control arms to provide more strength and reduce chassis flex even more. You don’t lose any more ground clearance, but you do gain several more steps up the ladder in the handling department.

For 3rd gens, this requires a small amount of grinding on the left side gusset to fit, but does not alter or weaken the structure of the car at all–you simply have to enlarge one hole by about 2mm for one of the mounting points to fit properly. For 4th and 5th gens, this is a simple 15 minute install (assuming you have air tools and a jack).

Current fittments WILL Clear all aftermarket Y-pipes (Warpspeed Performance, Cattman, Stillen), but will NOT clear the Cattman headers on the 4th gen. I’m working with a customer in redesigning the 4th gen bar so that it will fit. If you have these headers or plan to purchase them, stay tuned and I’ll have a design that fits.

Price on the Stage II Lower Tie Bar is $175, plus shipping.

4th Gen Stage II Lower Tie Bar

5th Gen Stage II Lower Tie Bar

B14 Stage II Lower Tie Bar

Rear Strut Tower Brace: For 89-94 Maxima

Exactly what it says it is!! You’ve seen them on 4th gens, you’ve seen them on Sentras, you’ve seen them on every car BUT a 3rd gen! I argued for years that they wouldn’t do anything, but I decided to build one not long ago, and boy was I wrong!!

Pricing: $100 each, plus shipping. (This isn’t your $29 ebay fstb!!)

Rear Parallel Link Replacement Kit: For 89-94 Maxima

Another crazy mod for your 3rd Gen!

This is a mod only for the hardcore guys out there. It’s rough and it’s tough, and it’ll (almost) hang with a Miata in the twisties!! These do add some road noise over gravel roads at low speeds, but the ride quality doesn’t change between these and stock bushings. I notice no additional highway noise, and the ride is MUCH smoother than with my worn bushings in the rear.

This kit also allows you to adjust Camber AND Caster in the back!

This kit replaces both rear parallel links and radius rods on both sides, for a total of 6 bars, 12 Heim joints, and all the bushings you’ll need to install them properly.

I can get the tubes in zinc plated (pictured), or black. I can powdercoat them just about any color you want as well, so contact me if you’d like some other colors.

This kit is priced at a VERY reasonable $375 for the set. Again, the second picture shows just one side, but you do get both. The joints used in this kit are very high quality– they have teflon lining injected into them so they should never need lubricating and will never rattle like the cheap ones.

Okay, so what is it exactly? I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves:

Rear Sway Bar Links:

89-94 Maxima

Tired of your rear sway bar links breaking, clanking, and rattling? Here’s the solution! These are made from all high-strength materials. 1/2″ aluminum bottom plate, grade 8 mounting hardware, and the heim joint on top is permanently lubed with kevlar/teflon injected into the joint. Guaranteed not to break! Overkill to say the least, but you don’t want these to break AGAIN, do you?

Price for the Maxima kit is $45 + shipping–includes all hardware pictured for both sides of the car.

1st Generation Altima

I have some Energy Suspension Sway Bar Bushings on the way as well and will be selling these as complete front and rear kit when they come in. Final pricing will be determined later.

my4dsc: 26

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