my4thgen 95-99


Community Member Credit: Jeff Ketch

Here is a list of things that need to be done for the 60K service.
  1. Spark Plugs: 6 NGK Platinum spark plugs are required for the tune-up. Platinum plugs do not need to be gapped. If you use copper plugs the gap is .044. Put anti-seize on the spark plug threads and torque to 18 ft/lbs. The spark plug socket is 16mm or 5/8. The spark chambers are very deep as you will find out. A magnet will help to remove and install the plugs. Also a couple of socket extensions are necessary. Remove the spark plug cover (Nissan V6 3000) to reveal the front three plugs. The rear three plugs are behind the exhaust manifolds. The last picture shows an approximate location.
  2. Oil Change: Make sure the car is on a flat surface. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. The filter and plug are behind a panel in the passenger fender well. There are about 4 Phillips head screws holding the panel in place. There is one more Phillips head screw under the front nose of the car that needs to be removed. Once the panel is removed you can see the plug and filter. Remove the drain plug (turn left) and make sure that you keep the crush ring that is on the drain plug. Nissan recommends that you replace the crush ring ever oil change. The ring should be good for about 3-4 oil changes. Remove the old oil filter and then reinstall the oil plug. Put fresh oil into the new filter and install. When the filter gives slight resistance turn it another 2/3 of a turn. Tightening the filter by hand is all that is needed. Add 4 quarts of fresh oil and then start the car. The car takes 4.5 quarts but make sure that you do not over fill. The Nissan filter # 15208-31U00.
  4. Fuel Filter: The filter is located against the fire wall near the brake fluid. There is no real easy way to remove the filter. It has a hose clamp at the top and bottom of the filter. The hose clamps are tightened with Phillips head screws. The problem is Nissan did not leave a lot of room to get a screwdriver in there in order to remove the filter. If you want to attempt to change the filter here are a few tips. Leave the car running. You will need to remove the fuel pump fuse. The fuse panel is under the steering wheel on the left. Locate the fuel pump fuse and remove it. In about 5-10 seconds the car will stall. Try to start the car at least one more time. This releases the pressure in the fuel line. Turn the car off completely. Now try and remove the top and bottom hose on the filter. When reinstalling the filter make sure that you don’t install upside down. When new filter is installed put the fuse back in and start the car.
  5. Transmission Fluid: The drain is under the transmission near the driver’s side of the car. The fill is in the front of the engine and looks like a large square opening. In order to open that fill plug you need a 1/2″ ratchet with out the socket. The transmission takes 4.5 quarts of MT-90. I have provided a picture from the shop manual to show the location of the drain bolt and fill plug. Easy way to fill the transmission is to get some plastic tubing and tape a funnel to one end.
  6. Radiator Coolant: The radiator takes 9.5 quarts of fluid. The mixture is 50% coolant and 50% distilled water. There are 3 drains that you need to find. One is the radiator drain which is directly under the radiator. The second is in front of the engine dead center near the exhaust manifold. Third is in back of the engine. Here is a picture of the third drain bolt. If you take off the passenger front tire, look on the left side of the front shocks and turn your head a little to the right. That is were the picture is looking. The bolt is in the top right of the picture left of the black wire. I had the dealer to it for under $50.
  7. PCV Valve: The location of the valve is not longer a mystery. Located near the throttle body.
  8. Belt Replacement: The ’95 has two accessory belts. One is the alternator and the other is compressor/power steering. This jobs took me over a hour to complete. You will need long combination wrenches and sockets. The sizes are 12 and 14 millimeter. Please note how tight the belts are because you have to adjust the belt accordingly. It’s call “deflection” so please push on the belts and remember. After the install you need to get the belts close to the same deflection.

    Take off the passenger side front wheel and the oil cover. This will expose the belts.


    View from under the car. Looking at the center pulley. You have to loosen the bolt in the middle of the pulley. Then directly above is the adjustment bolt that you will loosen to raise the pulley. The next picture shows the top bolt.


    View from the top passenger fender looking near time chain cover. Loosen the bolt so that you can raise the center pulley. This is the belt that needs to be removed first.


    View from the top looking to the left. Loosen the bolt so that you can lower the power steering pump. There is a bolt on the other end of the threads that you can’t see. That bolt will lower the pump.


    View from the bottom of the car. Tighten the bolt so that you can lower the power steering pump. The bolt is threaded into a clamp that when tightened the clamp closes, lowering the power steering pump.
  9. Tighten throttle cable: Make sure the cable is low and in-between the half moon shape. The cable at the relaxed state should not be above the half moon…there needs to be more tension. The outside cable is your cruise control and the inside is your throttle. To fix this follow the cable about 6 inches back to two nuts. Loose the front nut and spin that forward, the cable will come loose but now you spin the back nut in the same direction and that will take up the slack along with securing the cable to the mounting bracket.
  10. ECU reset: This is not needed for the 60K service. If the “check engine light” comes on. This is the proper way to reset it. Andi is the one who scanned the page.

Community Member Credit: luke95gxe

So I decided to install a cold air intake the diff is noticeable and I love it.

Tools Needed

  • Flathead Screwdriver or 8MM Socket
  • Phillips Head Screwdriver
  • Drill Bit
  • Sawzall

Parts Needed

  • Cold Air Intake Piping
  • 3” Rubber Coupling with Clamps

My ram air intake set up:

Here is the pipe I used. It was beaten up so I painted it.

Remove fuse box and battery on driverside drill pilot holes and cut a hole a lil bigger than 3” in diameter.

Remove drivers-side wheel

Remove the splash guard by Phillips head screws you don’t have to completely remove.

Install cold air piping through the hole

Install air filter

Put splash guard back on and wheel and enjoy a better breathing engine. Finished product

I can definitely feel a difference on pulls than the ram air intake feel free to comment sorry for the crappy pics taken with my cell phone.

Community Member Credit: EnervinE

Figured I’d do a write-up because there’s next to no information about this procedure on this site. That, and a shop wanted $350 to remove and install – talk about a joke.

This is generally regarded as an extremely frustrating, time-consuming, impossible procedure, but in reality it’s quite easy if you know what you’re doing and you use a couple tricks I discovered. The driver’s side, since I had no idea what I was doing, took me roughly four hours of work, along with many bruises and foul words uttered. However, the passenger’s side, even with taking all of these pictures, only took me about an hour.

Following these instructions, I’d say this job’s about a 3 out of 10 on a difficulty scale. Don’t let a shop gouge you for this job, you can do it without much trouble.


Flathead screwdriver
Small and large Phillips head screwdrivers
10 mm socket and extension
10 mm wrench
Optional: Magnetic grabber (bolts like to fall out of your hands and into the door crevices…this helps.)

Okay, let’s get started!

FRONT DOOR1. Make sure the window is rolled up before beginning work.

2. Remove all accessories on the inner door panel. Pop the handle trim off with a flathead. Be gentle, as it will snap with too much force. Remove the cup handle’s screw and pop it out. Use a flathead to remove the window switch. Undo the connector and set it aside. Remove the light’s lens, remove the two screws, and undo the connector.

3. Remove the two screws on the bottom of the door panel.
4. Remove the door panel. It is held in by a bunch of snap-in pieces that Nissan likes to use everywhere. Lift it upwards and away and set it aside with all of its accessories. (note: the driver’s side has an extra connector on the back for the trunk popper. Remove it.)

5. You should now be looking at the door with the panel removed.

6. Start peeling away the weather covering. It is sealed with a black goop. Try to conserve the integrity of the goop so you don’t have to apply more sealant when you replace the covering.

7. Peel away enough to give you some room to work with.

8. Remove the bolts highlighted in the picture below – 5 in total. Push the middle bar downwards and out of the way.

9. Remove the lower bolt holding this metal piece in and remove it.

10. Unclip the whiteish-yellow piece holding the two bars in place. Move the assembly downward and out of the way.

11. Remove the left nut holding the handle in place.

12. Use the 10 mm wrench to remove the right nut holding the handle in place.

13. Pull out the bar inserted into the handle, shown removed below:

14. Remove the handle from the outside.

15. Examine the replacement handle. Make sure it operates correctly and has everything installed on the reverse side.

16. Insert the handle most of the way into the door.

17. On the back side, line up the bracket for the keyhole with the bolt on the back of the handle. It won’t go all of the way through yet, as the keyhole is not inserted into the handle.

18. I found that the keyhole is almost impossible to push into the handle. I figured out the best way to do it is to take your key and insert it into the keyhole and turn it left. This locks the key in the hole, enabling you to pull it through the handle.

19. You can now thread and tighten the right nut, which will pull the keyhole all of the way through. Don’t forget to remove your key afterwards! Reinstall the left nut and insert the latch rod back into the handle.

20. MAKE SURE THE HANDLE WORKS before continuing work. If it doesn’t, recheck that the latch rod is installed correctly.

21. Reinstall the removed metal plate. Move the large metal bracket back upwards and reinstall all bolts. Don’t forget to re-fasten the white-ish yellow bar guide.

22. Double check that everything has been re-installed, then replace the weather covering. Make sure the sealant is applied so no water can get through.

23. Reinstall the door panel and all accessories.

24. You’re done with the front side!


Some steps here are similar to the front door procedure – if instructions are vague, refer to steps above.
1. Make sure the window is rolled up before beginning work.

2. Remove all accessories on the inner door panel. Remove door panel and set aside with accessories.

3. Peel away the majority of the weather covering – you’ll need a lot of room to work.

4. Remove the three bolts holding the inner handle in place.

5. Unclip the black plastic guide and remove the bars.

6. You can access the left nut holding the outer handle in place with the socket and extension. Remove it.

7. Remove the three screws holding the latch assembly on the side of the door.

8. Remove the bolt highlighted in the below picture. The latch and rod assembly will come loose.

9. Remove the black “child safety” plastic piece. If the latch and rod assembly is moved to the side enough, the right nut for the handle will be visible through this hole. Remove it with the socket and extension.

10. Remove the handle, with the latch rod, through the other side.

11. Examine the new handle. Make sure the handle operates. Make sure it contains the latch rod – if not, install the one from the old handle.

12. Fit the new handle into the door.

13. Reinstall the right nut through the child safety hole. Move the latch and rod assembly if needed to install the left nut.

14. Remove the 4 bolts holding in the large metal bracket and push it downwards, out of the way.

15. Reinstall this bolt into the assembly finger tight to hold the assembly in place.

16. Here’s where it gets tricky. Remember the latch rod that goes from the outer handle to the latch and makes the outer handle work? That couldn’t be installed until now because the left and right nuts for the handle had to be installed first. This has to be done by feel, and it helps to have a long arm. Stick your arm along the bottom of the door, upwards until you feel the latch rod. Grab it, then feel around for a lever with a hole in it. Push this lever down and insert the rod into the hole. It’s too far back to get a picture, but feel around and you can get it.

The proper way to run your arm up there:

17. Once the latch rod is in place, reinstall the three screws for the latch.

18. MAKE SURE THE HANDLE WORKS before continuing work. If it doesn’t, recheck that the latch rod is installed correctly.

19. Re-tighten the bolt you hand-tightened. Replace the inner rods in the black keeper and snap it shut. Reinstall the three bolts for the inner handle. Replace the large metal bracket and install the 4 bolts. Make sure all screws and bolts are reinstalled and tight.

20. Replace the weather covering.

21. Reinstall the door panel and accessories.

22. You’re done with the rear side!



Community Member Credit: Kevlo911

I bet over 75% of 4th gen owners have a leaking steering rack and/or worn tie rods…

I bought the rack from:

I bought the 99se rack because it is stiffer. It comes with new inner tie rods and new o-rings. You should replace the outer tie rods and sway bar bushings at the same time.

As for the how-to.

  • Loosen lugs
  • Jack up and put the car on jack stands.
  • Remove wheels
  • Remove outer tie rods(I did not and paid for it ) – You need to rent the outer tie rod removal tool from AutoZone to do this.
  • Remove the bolt on top of the sway bar end link and the 2 bolts on the bracket that holds the “inner” bushing in.
  • Move the sway bar up and wiggle it out from the passenger side.

Remove the y-pipe (rent the o2 removal tool)

As you can see, I forgot to rent the tool

Now the fun part. Crossmember. Remove the engine mount bolts, in the rear I used a long 10in extension to get to the bolt from the engine bay(intake removed). Front engine mounts you need an open-end wrench on one side and a socket on the other(or two sockets…) I supported the engine with a jack and a 2×4. If you have a tranny jack it would be better. Remove the 2 bolts in the front and rear(4total bolts) on the cross member and it will dropdown. You can replace the mounts right now if you want to.

See a plate covering this mount on the rack. It is behind the rear header and is held on by three 10mm screws. Remove it.

Now remove the fluid lines, have something to catch the fluid(I had a trash can lid). Remove these from the engine bay, it is much easier that way.

Use a 14mm open-end wrench to get the bottom one. On the top one, remove the hose and swap the nipple on the new rack once it is out of the car.

Remove those nuts. Now you will see the spindle, there is a 12mm nut holding it on the spindle of the rack. Make sure the steering wheel is straight before you remove it.

Remove the bolts holding on the rack now. One mount is pictured above, the other you will see when you are down there. USE THIS ALONG WITH MY TIPS TO CHANGE THE RACK

FSM is basically the same write up too. As you can tell I didn’t do everything they did.

You will remove the rack from the middle, it will NOT slide out from the sides(I found out the hard way). You will move it towards the pass side and then drop it down in the middle. You will install it the same way. I also installed new bushing on the rack, I got MOOG bushings from

You will soon find out the spindle does not want to go into the joint. You will have to bang on top of the joint to get it on the spindle. I used my tq wrench and breaker bar to bang it in. I didn’t have a rubber mallet(I did this with the rack mounts partially in, only the lower nuts were in). Rest is the reversal. Next, you get it aligned… I still have to do this, my wheel is cocked to the right.

This will take all day and would be much easier with air tools. But I saved about 800-1200bucks labor by doing it myself and I now have a stiffer and better feeling steering system.

Community Member Credit: Jeff Ketch

Installation was actually rather simple but did require some fabrication to get everything hooked up and working. Only a short piece of 3/4″ by 1/8″ steel and some aluminum angle were needed for mounting everything. However, understand that horn kits don’t ship with wiring or connectors, so plan on making several trips to the Radio Shack to get what you need. I suggest 10 or 12 gauge wire (with an inline 20 amp fuse) for the compressor circuit, while any 14-16 gauge wire will handle the switching tasks. You’ll need to tap into the stock horn wiring for the switching.

I am going to try and explain the wiring.

  • The compressor has two connections. One female end on the compressor and the other end to relay #30. WIRE: female connectors at both ends.
  • The other compressor connection is ground (negative…frame of the car or run an open connector to the car batteries negative terminal).
    WIRE: female one end and open or circle connector on the other side.
  • Relay #85 to ground (negative…frame or negative battery terminal)
    WIRE: Female connector on one end and open or circle connector on the other side.
  • Relay #86 gets a female connector and the other end is a male that plugs into the stock horn connector. The stock horn is in front of the radiator (looks like a 3″ diameter disk).
  • Relay #87 gets a female connector for the relay and the other end goes to the positive battery terminal( open loop connector. Take off the nut on the battery and put the connector between it).

Relay numbers:

  • 85: Ground
  • 86: Stock horn switching
  • 87: Hot lead that runs to the battery terminal (POSITIVE).
  • 30: Hot lead running to the compressor.

Short cut for Maximas:

The relay is not necessary for the air horns to work.

  • Plug a male connector into the stock horn switching, plug the other end of the stock horn switching into the bottom of the compressor (positive)
  • The compressor has one more connection (negative), the negative to the compressor and the other end to the ground (car frame)

This picture is taken to show where the horns are installed. We’re looking down on top of the driver’s side headlight, and you can see the front of the horns light up by a drop light in the space in front of the wheel inside the fender.

Here is the wiring that goes to the battery. Since the battery was so close, we didn’t bother wiring to a ground bolt. We used 12 gauge wire.

The horns are mounted inside the drivers side front fender, behind the fog light. Here is a picture showing the horns mounted to the strip of metal. We picked up the metal at Home Depot, they’ve got tons of it. Doesn’t have to be 3/4″ x 1/8″, anything in that range will do. Underneath the metal, you can see the support bracket that connects to the fender. This comes with the Maxima. It is too thin and also has a shape to it that wouldn’t allow mounting the horns to it.

You can also see the relay is attached using the same bolt as the horn all the way to the right. The top and bottom terminals connect to the compressor, thus the heavy 12 gauge wiring. The other wires tap into the stock horn wiring to control the relay, and don’t have to be heavy duty, so I used some extra speaker wire I had laying around.

You are looking top down…between the radiator and the front grille. The picture shows the stock horn switch (black) and the wire used to tap into the stock horn. By tapping into the stock horn for switching when your factory alarm goes off it uses the air horns. Also disconnect the other stock horn that is in the engine bay on the left side.

Here’s another view of the above picture, taken from farther out. You can easily see the fender support brace here. Take the 10mm bolt out, then put the horn bracket between the support brace and the frame. This is also where I ran the ground for the stock horn.

Here is another view of how we mounted the horns.

Yet another angle. These pictures should be clear enough so that you can understand how to do this on your own.

This picture is taken from the floor, looking up to see where the compressor is mounted. We used a short section of 1 1/4″ x 1 1/4″ aluminum angle to mount the compressor to the top of the shipping tie down hooks which are attached to the frame via three heavy bolts.

Here is a close-up of the aluminum angle we used to mount the compressor. Again, this was obtained from Home Depot, but be warned… the shortest length they sell is 8 feet… and you only need about an inch or so to make this bracket. If you felt adventurous, you could make the bracket by bending a piece of the same 3/4″ x 1/8″ steel that the horns mounted to.

Finally, here is a good shot of the area where the compressor mounts. The horns are at the top of the picture, the compressor mount is below the rightmost horn, and the driver’s side fog light is at the bottom of the picture.

Finished Product

Community Member Credit: justmax

Basically this is a mod that short-circuits the Cruise control relay that requires you to turn on the toggle switch on your dash to the left of the steering column…

What you’ll need:

1. A couple of inches of 14-gauge wire (16 or 18 might work, but I didn’t want to risk the wire melting)

2. A couple of crimp-on flat spade connectors

What to do:

Attach the spade connectors to either end of your wire, like this:

Open up the relay box on the passenger side of the engine bay, you’re looking for the slot that has ASCD (Automatic Speed Control (Device):

Remove the ASCD relay from its slot (a small flat-head screwdriver will help you with the clip that holds it in). Now insert your wire into the connection that is perpendicular to the other 3, and the connection opposite that, like this:

Put the cover back on the relay box and put your unused relay away, cuz you’re done. Now the cruise control will be on whenever the car is on.

Owner: ดิลก ฟักเผือก / OTTO SHOP

Year: 1997
Model: Cefiro / A32 Maxima
Current Color:  Black
Transmission: Automatic
Trim: SE / TT

Highlights: Car is currently on Tomei Arms M7655 Turbos and makes 432 WHP /  500 TQ @ 10 PSI. On OEM Nissan GTR R34 Turbo’s, it made 360 WHP / 400 TQ @ 7PSI. The car is still on stock VQ30DE engine and transmission. Now that’s very impressive! The car is also daily drive.

Stock Run  – 157 WHP / 209 TQ

OEM Nissan GTR R34 Turbos : 360 WHP / 400 TQ

Turbo Upgrade: Tomei M7655

432 WHP /  500 TQ  on Tomei M7655 Turbos