Category

my4thgen 95-99

Category

Member Credit: sparky1562

The Issue

Left work Friday afternoon everything was okay. No signs of previous issues, no codes. Sitting at a stoplight the car started shaking real bad, hit the gas to go and she kept running but very rough. The check engine came on. I went to blinking mode as a kept driving. Pulled into Autozone read P0300. Nothing obviously disconnected. Smell of raw fuel out the tailpipe with blue/white smoke but not too heavy.

Made it home, the problem continued. I would rev fine and run better at 30/40 MPH but was rough. Left it alone until yesterday. It seemed to run better when cold, but not right.

I have ohmed out the injectors, the coils, all read okay. Pulled all plugs, all are dry except #1, which was a little wet, but none are fouled. Did a compression test (not fully warmed up I am sure) All cylinders came out to 210 PSI, except #4 which was 150. repeated and got the same results.

I can smell raw fuel so I know it is not running right. No leaks. When I crack the throttle and release, I can hear a gurgling sound in the vicinity of the throttle body, maybe at the EGR area/cylinder 5. I have heard that for a while. Maybe related, maybe not. I don’t hear any sign of a vacuum leak.

The Fix

Well, it was fuel related. Specifically, a nearly clogged filter. I would have thought it would have just shut down, but it acted just like a dropped valve. Bought gas at a station I don’t normally buy from. Not sure it was a tank of bad gas or just timing, but the filter was the issue. I thought it might be the fuel pump, but it seems to be running perfectly now.

Member Credit: Jon Sutter

I bought the kit from my cousin who bought a SC’ed 96 from another member here. It’s a Stillen V1 plate and V1 supercharger. Instead of the Trex fuel pump and pressure switch, it has a Walbro in-tank pump. It also has an AFPR along with the FMU. I used my rail-mounted AFPR instead. It had a CAI but I chose not to install that right now.

Lots of time was spent cleaning, painting and sourcing parts to install it. I went through everything except for the SC itself. I’ll rebuild it over the winter or swap it for a V2. It’s too loud for my liking. My car has the stock exhaust so I hear all sorts of new noises. Da whistles go WOOO-WOOOO.

There were a few minor issues. The belt I bought was too long. I got a K060705 without checking the car which had a destroyed K060696. I have a K060695 now. I used the 95-96 IATS so some soldering was needed. Having the 00vi made it a bit more complicated. An extra tube and coupler I had actually fit perfect. Routing the relocated IACV was fiddly.

I’m anal as can be. Saying I took my time is an understatement. I mean really, I extended the MAFS power wire with the same wire from another harness. I also swapped the bolts for studs on the thermostat just so the gasket was easier to install. I mean who does that?!

Alright enough with the talking, on to the pictures.

The car as advertised in 2016.

As it was dropped off to me.

Reinstalled onto mine. In before someone says that filter is small, it’s from the 350z Vortech kit.


Interesting CAI.

AFPR and FMU, the hoses were a mess.

Not much of a looker.
What a strange oil feed line.

This needs some cleaning.

How many more miles could this go?

Taking a bath.

Clean enough for my car.

A few coats of paint.

New 90 leftt, original right.

Swapping in a fresh thermostat.

More painting.
Ready to do some work.

Things are falling into place.

Messing with the fuel lines.

Just about there.

Needs a filter.
Oh, it’s cute.

All done…


Mounting a pod.

I like this better than the A pillar.

Let’s go for a drive!

Member Credit: Cdg2125

Tools Required:

  • Ratchet
  • 10m socket
  • 12mm socket
  • Flathead or 8mm socket
  • Pliers or vise grips
  • 1 can of Throttle Body cleaner
  • 1 can of Carb cleaner (I find Berrymans B12 to work fastest)
  • New throttle body gasket
  • New IAC Valve Gasket (dealer only)

Step 1: Disconnect battery. unclip airbox, unplug MAF Sensor, use pliers to slide clamps holding hoses to airbox down and slide off hoses, use flathead or 8mm socket to loosen clamp holding air tube to throttle Body, remove 10mm socket on side of airbox holding it down and remove air intake assembly.

Step 2: Move the throttle to fully open position, lift throttle cables one at a time forward and wiggle out of the TB (towards the left of the TB). Unplug 2 Throttle Position Sensor Plugs.

Step 3: Remove the 4 12mm bolts holding the TB to the plenum

Step 4: On the bottom of the TB there will either be 2 or 3 hoses attached. use pliers to slide clamps down and remove hoses. make sure your radiator cap is still on or engine coolant will start to flow out. If hoses have seized on, use a flathead to pry the top and break the seal.

Step 5: Remove throttle body. scrape old gasket from both surfaces. clean entire butterfly plate (both faces) and cylinder. there should be no black when done. use only throttle body cleaner as carb cleaner will remove teflon coating which can later lead to faster corrosion and/or deposit formation

Step 6: Locate IAC Valve (triangular unit bolted to the driver’s side of the plenum right in front of the firewall with a large hose that was connected to the air intake assembly) unplug all 4 plugs.

Step 7: Remove 10mm bolt holding EGR Temp Sensor plug to the IAC Valve. (hard to see so you may have to feel around the firewall side for it) It is the only plug of the 4 not directly attached to the IAC Valve body

Step 8: Remove 3 12mm bolts holding IAC Valve to the plenum and remove IAC Valve. Remove old gasket (no need for scraping as it is a metal gasket).

Step 9: Spray/wipe the entire inside of the triangular face clean. Spray the inside of the brass housing clean of all deposits. spray base of Idle screw clean to ensure no carbon deposits remain. Be liberal with the spray.

Step 10: Replace gaskets and reassemble in reverse order. make sure when attaching the air tube to the TB you tighten the clamp. a loose clamp = a small vacuum leak that probably can’t be heard but will be felt (high idle).

Before reassembling, some like to spray remaining throttle body cleaner/carb cleaner into the plenum to clean it up. This is usually a waste of time since oil coming from the PCV will quickly muck it up again but pooled cleaner may help clean downstream intake when you start it back up. not enough to make a big difference but hey. If you do this, don’t be alarmed by the blue smoke at startup (oil and sludge being burned off). Start the car, take it for a short run to blow any remaining cleaner out and you are done.

YouTube Video’s:

Owner: Chase Morphies

Year: 1998
Model: i30
Color: Blue
Transmission: 5-Speed Manual

Mod List:

  • Custom 3″ Side Exit Exhaust
  • Red eBay Lowering Springs
  • XXR 513 19 x 9.5″ All Around
  • 5 x 114.3 225/45/19
  • 300ZX Fuel Filter
  • Tuned on APEXI
  • DE-K Engine Swap
  • 5-Speed Swap
  • 20% Window Tint
  • Hood-Pin Release
  • 2 12″ Crunches – Subwoofers

Member Credit: xlack

This is from a G37 but the procedure pretty much identical to Nissan Maximas.

OEM Oil Pan completely stripped of silicon residue:

JWT Oil Pan Spacer:

New silicon applied:

Brush used to remove silicon remains:

This bolt has to be bended in order for the oil pan spacer to fit. (guy from 370z forum had it cut off, but is not necessary):

Bolt is knocked back into position:

Owner: ViciousMo

Year: 1998
Model: Maxima
Color: Black
Transmission: 5-Speed Manual
Trim: SE

Mod List:

  • Cattman 2.5” exhaust w/ Fastcat HFC
  • Stillen intake
  • Tokico Illumnas
  • Progress rear sway, ebay FSTB
  • Stillen body kit brand new in box, no paint
  • Budget Y-pipe
  • Rota Grids Hyper Black 18×9.5 +20, 5×114.3, 225/40/18 tires

 

Member Credit: EddyMaxx

I wanted my cluster to match the rest of the LEDs in my 1998 Maxima. I liked the blue color so I ordered those. The install was pretty straight-forward and the final outcome is awesome. I’m going to sand down the orange on the needle for a clear look.

Special thanks to Brad Conner for the assist! You can find his install instructions here.

Part Number: NEO5-BHP (This is only for 1998-1999 Digital Clusters. For 1995-1997, you need T10/194 bulbs bulbs)

Order Link: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/instrument-cluster-gauge/neox-led-bulb-high-power-instrument-panel-led/221/998/

The LEDs

Before Pics

Back Side of Cluster

These are the 5 bulbs to change to the NEO5-BHP bulbs.

Note: These LED bulbs are polarized. If a specific bulb does not light up, you will have to adjust it. It took me a few tries but I finally got them all working. Make sure they are secured as you adjust them so that they don’t fall out if you hit a speed bump. Also, it’s recommended to fully test the cluster with new bulbs installed before putting everything back in.

New LED Bulbs Installed

Final Result. Next step is to sand down the red on needles for a better look.

Member Credit: tigersharkdude

These is a full list of LED replacements bulbs for your 1995-1999 Nissan Maxima.

Tools Needed:

  1. Phillips Head Screw Driver
  2. Thin flat head screw driver
  3. Plastic Trim removal tool
  4. Extending magnetic pickup tool
  5. POSSIBLY 10mm socket and ratchet
  6. POSSIBLY a headlamp light

LEDs:

Map Light – 20 SMD LED Panel with a BA9s Adapter(can be purchased from your choice of supplier, I prefer ebay because they tend to be just as good and are usually $2-3 each)

Cars with 2 Map lights will need TWO 12 SMD LED Panels and 2 BA9s adapters (can be purchased from your choice of supplier, I prefer ebay because they tend to be just as good and are usually $2-3 each).

DomeLight – 36 SMD LED Panel with a Festoon Adapter (can be purchased from your choice of supplier, I prefer ebay because they tend to be just as good and are usually $2-3 each).

Door Courtesy Lights – 2 x 12 SMD LED Panel and 2 T10 adapters(can be purchased from your choice of supplier, I prefer ebay because they tend to be just as good and are usually $2-3 each).
Cluster Bulbs:

**95-97 cars – 5 (Five) T10/194 bulbs (can be purchased from your choice of supplier). For these I recommend that you use at least 5+ SMD LED’s because if you use something with one LED it will look awful and have a huge hotspot.

**98-99 cars – 5 (Ffive) NEOx 5mm Bulbs ($1.79 Each http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei…panel-led/221/)
ACC Bulbs: THESE ARE ONLY FOR DIGITAL UNITS. NEOx 4mm bulbs ($2.29 each http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei…panel-led/221/)

Vanity Mirror Bulbs: 31mm Vanity 3 SMD LED bulb xenon white ($2.49 each http://www.wardenjp.com/stores/festoon.html) or from your choice of supplier)

REMEMBER that there are several types of LED panels that are available to purchase, 5050 SMD LED are one of the brightest options that you have. Also remember that LED’s come in a wide array of colors, be sure to always check that the LED that you are looking at is the correct color that you want.

Installation Time: 

  1. Map Light – Approximately 5 minutes
  2. Dome Light – Approximately 5 minutes
  3. Door Courtesy Lights – Approximately 5 minutes
  4. Cluster Bulbs – Depending on your level of experience 30-60 minutes
  5. ACC Bulbs – Depending on your level of experience 30-60 minutes
  6. Vanity Mirror bulbs – Approximately 5 minutes

Note: You can swap pretty much everything from sitting in the front seats. I took the ACC in my garage when I swapped those bulbs as there are 4 small screws that I didn’t want to lose.

Installation Process:

Map Light:
Installation of the Map light is fairly straightforward. Some cars have 2 Map lights for those you will need to remove/install both sides

  1. Step One – Use your trim tool to remove the lense(s) from your Map light. This is done by inserting the sharp/pointed end of the tool into the grove near the front of the lense(s) and popping the lense out
  2. Step Two – Remove the old bulb(s). This is done by grasping the bulb(s), push down/in, and rotating counter clockwise and pull it out.
  3. Step Three – Installing the LED(s) is fairly simple. For the cars with 2 bulbs, the map lights will be plug and play. But the cars with one map light, they are trickier. Because of the way that the Map light bulb-base is wired, you can not simply plug in a standard LED bulb and expect it to work. I opt for LED board(s) that have a wired connection between the bulb-base and the panel. To make the LED board(s) light up you will need to connect the connection like so ..
    Positive>>>Negative
    Negative>>>PositiveThis will need to be done because Nissan wired the bulb-base in “reverse” and not what is commonly used. IIRC, Instead of getting power from the center contact, it gets power from the socket wall. And visa versa for the ground. Connect the LED board to the BA9s adapter and plug the adapter into the bulb socket (insert the adapter into the socket, push it in and turn clockwise [so that you lock the adapter in place]).
  4. Step Four- If the panel is not lighting up when you plug the LED board in and press the “on” button, then you will need to remove the bulb base and turn it 180° as the socket is polarized and will only work in one direction. *** Note if you have followed all of the above steps and the LED board is still not working, check to see if your Interior Illumination fuse has popped.

Dome Light:
Installation of the Dome light is fairly straightforward

  1. Step One – Use your trim tool to remove the lense from your Dome light. This is done by inserting the sharp/pointed end of the tool into the grove near the front of the lense and popping the lense out
  2. Step Two – Remove the old bulb. This is done by grasping the bulb, and rotate it counter clockwise and pull it out.
  3. Step Three – Installing the LED. First connect the LED panel to the Festoon adapter. Unlike the Map light, this is simply plug-and-play (+ to +, – to -). Connect the LED board to the Festoon adapter and plug the adapter into the bulb socket (squeeze the adapter together and plug it into the socket)
  4. Step Four- If the panel is not lighting up when you plug the LED board in and turn it “on”, then you will need to remove the festoon adapter and turn it 180° as the socket is polarized and will only work in one direction. *** Note if you have followed all of the above steps and the LED board is still not working, check to see if your Interior Illumination fuse has popped.

Door Courtesy Lights
Installation of the Door Courtesy Light (DCL) is fairly straightforward

  1. Step One – Use your trim tool to remove the lense from your DCL. This is done by inserting the sharp/pointed end of the tool into the grove near the front of the lense and popping the lense out
  2. Step Two – Remove the old bulb. This is done by grasping the bulb, and pulling straight out of the socket
  3. Step Three – Installing the LED. First connect the LED panel to the T10 adapter. Unlike the Map light, this is simply plug-and-play (+ to +, – to -). Connect the LED board to the T10 adapter and plug the adapter into the bulb socket.
  4. Step Four- If the panel is not lighting up when you plug the LED board in and turn it “on”, then you will need to remove the festoon adapter and turn it 180° as the socket is polarized and will only work in one direction. *** Note if you have followed all of the above steps and the LED board is still not working, check to see if your Interior Illumination fuse has popped.

Cluster Bulbs
Installation of the gauge cluster bulbs is fairly easy, but can be tedious if you have never removed the cluster before. I will say this, be sure to keep the screws in a “secure” place, such as a zip-lock baggy.

  1. Remove the knee bolster from under the steering wheel (two screws will need to be removed, the fuse panel cover, and one electrical connector once you pull the knee bolster down)
  2. Remove the steering column cover (There are 6 screws that are accessible from the bottom of the cover). If you can not access the two screws that are farthest back you may need to remove the metal “cover” that is in the way. This is done by removing the two 10mm bolts and the “cover” should come right off.
    Step Two ½ . Now open the lever on the driver side of the steering column so that you can lower the column down as far as it will go.
  3. Remove the gauge cluster trim CAREFULLY SO AS NOT TO BREAK IT (there are two screws on the top of the bezel and 3 electrical connectors which need to be “un-clipped” in order to remove the bezel)
  4. Next, there are 3 screws that hold the cluster in place. Remove those screws
  5. Next, slide the cluster out. There are 3 electrical plugs in the back of the cluster that will need to be “un-clipped”
  6.  Once the plugs are “un-clipped” pull the cluster out and you will see the 4 main bulbs on the back side (pic below)
  7. At this step you will be installing the bulbs. Do note that 95-97 cars use different bulbs that 98-99 cars
    95-97 cars/Analog odometer– Remove the 4 main bulbs (they will be larger than the other bulbs), this is done by twisting in a counterclockwise motion and pulling the “socket” out. Now remove the bulb from the socket and insert your car T10 LED bulbs.
    98-99 cars/Digital odometer – Remove the 4 main bulbs and the odometer bulbs, this is done by twisting in a counterclockwise motion and pulling the “socket” out, and put the 5(five) Neo-5 bulbs in the cluster, this is done by inserting the Neo-5 bulbs and turning them with a small flat-head or small phillips head screwdriver).
  8. Take the cluster back to your car and connect the electrical plugs in the back and plug the dimmer switch (on the bezel) back up and test your cluster bulbs. I found a good method of testing these (if it is daytime and you are outside), throw a dark blanket or jacket over you and the gauge cluster and lean close to the close to the cluster and turn the gauge lights on.
  9. If any of your bulbs are not working you will need to turn them around, as they are polarized and will only work in one direction
  10.  Once all 5 bulbs are working, reassemble everything and enjoy what you have accomplished.

Bulbs to Remove

98-99 cluster with COOL WHITE bulbs

98-99 cluster with RED bulbs

ACC Bulbs:
Installation of the ACC bulbs is a little harder than any of the other swaps mentioned in this How-To. It can be tedious if you have never removed the ACC. I will say this, be sure to keep the screws in a “secure” place, such as a zip-lock baggy.

  1. Remove the waterfall section (shifter trim, AC vents and radio/ACC unit). This is very straightforward, if you need more descriptive information refer to this link ……………….. (insert link)
  2. Remove the ACC by disconnecting the two grey plugs, one white plug and the hose that is attached and the 4 screws holding the ACC in the radio brackets
  3. Once the ACC is removed, you will need to remove the faceplate (attached with clips) from the unit. At this time you can also clean the display face and plastic lens. There are also 4 silver screws around the edge that will need to be removed.
  4. Once the faceplate is off, separate the two pieces (face and back) of the ACC by unclipping the plastic clips. Pull the two pieces apart carefully
  5. You will now have the face and back, the face will have an electric circuit board on the back with 4 twist lock bulbs.
  6. Remove the old bulbs by twisting them counter clockwise and lifting them straight out. Install the new bulbs by inserting them and twisting clockwise to lock them place
  7. Reassemble the ACC unit and take back to car
  8. Before screwing the unit back into the brackets connect the 3 electrical connections and test the ACC to make sure your lights are all working (if any of them are not working you will have to take the ACC apart again and turn the bulbs around as they are polarized and only work in one direction.
  9.  Once all 4 bulbs are working, reassemble everything and enjoy what you have accomplished
    (NOTE: the hot spots aren’t that bad, I had to use a somewhat high ISO to take the pic without a tripod)

Picture exaggerates the hot spots…the camera was at an angle

Vanity Mirror Bulbs:
Installation of the Vanity Mirror Bulbs (VMB) is fairly straightforward. Do note, that some cars do not have lights in their vanity mirrors, for these cars you can skip this section.

  1. Flip open the vanity mirror cover,use your trim tool to remove the lense from your each VMB. This is done by inserting the sharp/pointed end of the tool into the grove near the front of the lense and popping the lense out
  2. Remove the old bulb. This is done by grasping the bulb, and rotate it counter clockwise and pulling them out. Do this for each of the 4 bulbs.
  3. Installing the LED. Insert the 31mm bulb into the bulb socket. This is done by simply pushing in place. Do this for each of the 4 bulbs.
  4. If the bulbs do not light up when you plug the LED board in and turn it “on”, then you will need to remove the bulb(s) that do not light up and turn them 180° as the socket is polarized and will only work in one direction. *** Note if you have followed all of the above steps and the LED board is still not working, check to see if your Interior Illumination fuse has popped

Stock on Left – LED on right