Owner: Nelson Andino
Color: Mojave Copper Metallic
- 3” Intake
- ISR Headers
- ISR Test Pipes
- HKS Replica Exhaust
- 2.5″ Exhaust
- Tuned by AdminTuning on 93 Pump Gas
Very clean 1st Gen Altima!
Credit: Jun Jung
Wheels: 22×10.5+5 / 22×12 +0
Tires: 265/35 and 295/30
Rims: Forgestar w/ TE37 Bronze Paint
Photo Credit: Benjamin B.
Owner: Travis C.
Over the past few months, our FX35 started to experience some odd behavior. When scanning the car for codes it would throw U1001 – Invalid or Missing Data for Primary Id. I noticed this happened about a week after a major rain day that ended up clogging and filling water inside the car (primarily driver side seat). I had to drain all the water out as it was like a little mini-pool. This is what I think caused the issue in the first place. So I sealed the area where I think the car would leak from on roof with silicone. I’m also going to check and clear the sunroof drain ports as this is a common problem with FX35. The car itself would actually drive OK but some issues were very risky such as driving with no wipers in case it rain or no AC in 100 degree weather.
I started searching online and couldn’t not find much helpful info. In fact, most threads that had a similar issue never posted an update on how it was resolved. Each day I did more research to try to find the fix. Randomly, I was watching a YouTube video on CEL Code U1000 and U1001. I happen to find a comment by user “Staten Island Euro Tech” on YouTube that put me in the right direction and helped resolve the issue. So I have to give credit to that user for helping me resolve this. Not only did I save a ton of $$$$$, I also learned a lot in the process. If you are reading this, hopefully this helps you resolve the issue. You can post a comment using FB below for any questions or comments.
Below is the list of the issues:
Order of things I did to troubleshoot:
You need to remove the driver side seat and lift the carpet. It’s literally just four 14MM bolts. Then you need to unplug the connector for seat and SRS airbag light. The airbag light will flash after this, so you need to perform the reset procedure which you can also find on YouTube. Very easy to do.
Underneath the carpet you will see two sets of wires under and insulated cap. 3 Red wires and 3 blue wires. Remove the cap and you will see all the wires are broken and corroded. You need to unify them together again.
You can see how badly the wires were corroded.
This is just to show how much of the carpet I needed to lift in order to find this. I also took the time to vacuum and clean up the carpet area. I don’t remember when was the last time this was done.
This entire area was flooded with water and this is what I think caused the corrosion and wires to break. I did add silicone around the windshield to stop more water from coming in.
Re-splice the wires together and secure them. Once you do this try testing out your wipers to ensure they work. If they do, then you can proceed them tightening everything up and cleaning the area.
All set. Feels good to have resolved this.
Member Credit: G35 Mass
I installed LFR5AIX-11 plugs.
First, the tools you will need:
1) DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL! Loosen one 10mm bolt (RED arrow), this is the only step where you will use the open-end wrench.
2) Remove the engine cover. It is 2 10mm nuts and 2 10mm bolts (RED arrows)
3) Remove the intake tube. This should require the removal of (2) 10mm bolts (RED arrows) and loosening 3 hose clamps, one on each end of the intake tube and a third clamp on the breather tube (BLUE arrows). Use pliers to loosen this last clamp, then pull the rubber tube away from the intake pipe. Removal of the second 10mm bolt located at the air box will facilitate easier reinstallation of the intake tube later.
4) Let’s start on the driver’s side first.
5) To gain better access to the coils, you’ll need to remove 3 10mm bolts which hold down an electrical harness just above the coils. All the bolts are easy to get to. You may have to push a couple hoses out of the way to get the back bolt though. Be careful not to drop the bolts!!! The magnetic pick-up tool can be very helpful here!
6) After you have removed the bolts for the electrical harness, Disconnect the plugs going to the individual coils. There are 3 plugs to undo. They are snug, but they come off fairly easily with just your fingers. Simply depress the flat lever section, and pull. Do not pull by the wires. Pull only on the gray plastic connector. If necessary, use a flat-blade screwdriver to help the connector come loose. Remember which plug goes to which coil. That is extremely important!!!! (They may be labeled).
Cylinder 4 & 6
7) Now you have good access to the coils! Use the 10mm socket to remove the bolt from the coil. Once you have removed the bolt, the coil will pull straight up out of the head. This should be very easy to pullout.
8) You should be able to see the sparkplug in the hole. It is pretty far down there.
9) Use the 16mm socket with the extension to remove the plug. If you aren’t using a sparkplug socket, you’ll need to use a 3-prong, spring loaded pick-up tool. This tool makes plucking the plug out the head very easy. I’m sure you can come up with some other sort of tool to do the job, but that is what I used.
10) Prepare your new sparkplug. These come pre-gapped! You do not need to gap them, and you will probably cause problems if you do. Coat LIGHTLY the 3-4 threads closest to the non-electrode end of the plug with a coating of Anti-Seize lubricant. A small tube or bottle can be purchased at any automotive store.
11) Replace the sparkplug with your new plug! Torque the plug to 20 FT-LBs! Make sure not to crossthread or overtorque the plugs! Aluminum heads are easy to strip out!
12) replace the coil; torque its bolt to 95 IN-LBs and plug it back in to the harness.
13) Repeat steps 8-11 for cylinders 4 & 6!
14) Re-secure the wiring harness with its 3 10mm bolts, and the driver’s side is complete.
15) You can also replace the intake tube at this time.
16) On to the passenger’s side of the engine.
17) This side is slightly harder….only because some of the bolts are difficult to reach by hand.
18) I started by removing 2 10mm bolts which retain the wiring harness. I only removed the 2 bolts closest to the front and middle of the head. The rear bolt is not necessary to remove.
19) You will need to remove the rubber breather tune that runs from the valve cover to the intake manifold. Use the pliers to loosen the clamps; then, slide the tube off of the engine.
20) Now, you should be able to disconnect the electrical plugs from the coils. This is the same as on the driver’s side.
21) The coil removal and plugs change is the same as described above. The only difference is that the back (toward firewall) coil bolt is difficult to get to with your fingers. Use the magnetic tool to remove and replace this bolt.
22) After repeating the procedure for all the cylinders, you should be done. Make sure to check that all the electrical connectors are snug and “clicked” tight.
23) Very important, you shouldn’t have any extra bolts laying around!!!!
24) put the engine cover back on. Secure it with its 4 fasteners
25) reconnect the negative battery terminal.
26) YOU ARE DONE!!!!!
I think I remembered all the steps. This took me about an hour, going at a leisurely pace. Additionally, I was figuring it out as I went. With some motivation, you could probably do it in 1/2 an hour.
Member Credit: Street Secret Garage
This is something you don’t see every day. Very nice build!
Owner: Shane C
Model: Q45 4.5 Liter V8
Owner: Hector Cruz
Model: B13 Sentra SE-R
Engine: 2014 Nissan Maxima Engine w/ 2,900 Miles
Transmission: 5-Speed (Cable) to 6-Speed (Hydraulic) Manual