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my7thgen 09-15

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Member Credit: 1sik4dsc

This is the first 7th gen CVT Maxima putting down some real power , I also realize i am the guinea pig for testing this CVT and seeing how much it can hold (so you guys gotta give me some credit lol). This was done in July of 2010. 

Got some goodies along with it , purge kit and a bottle warmer.

Ill let the pics do the talking…enjoy guys!

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Member Credit: 7thgenmaxima

Compilation of 7thgen Maximas from the 7thgenmaxima instagram page.

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Member Credit: EEsjunin & Eric Cruz

7thgen Maxima with R35 GTR Carbon Fiber vents installed. These can be found on ebay for approx. $160.00-$180.00.

Ebay Search Words: Nissan GTR R35 Carbon Fiber Vent Scoop Intake
Ebay Link: http://r.ebay.com/gRmAjW

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Covering up everything else
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Cutting and grinding to shape + spraying with anti-rust( not that its really needed since the hood seems to be made out of aluminum)

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test fit
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Silicone + Rivets= complete
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Additional Photos by Eric Cruz

 

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Member Credit: Ghozt

Please refer to the DIY on how to bake and open your headlights first, you will need to get the housing pieces out of the headlight to paint them. The only way to do that is to bake them.

For proper painting technique refer to Youtube for some great DIY painting videos. Simply put, you want to keep the spray can always moving side to side in clean even sweeps going back and forth. Never hold it still and concentrate on one area, you will get runs and drips. Don’t worry about getting complete coverage in one coat that is what multiple coats are for. It also helps to have a little paint area set up where the wind can’t blow your spray onto things you don’t want paint on. If you paint inside make sure it is well ventilated and wear a mask regardless.

Tools needed:
1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper, Small bowl of soapy water, Phillips screwdriver, Rubbing alcohol, Microfiber rag, Duplicolor Adhesion Promoter, Duplicolor High Temp paint in the color(s) you want (or Krylon Fusion as many like to use), VHT nightshades (if you want to tint your amber reflector), some kind of blocks you can set things on to paint them

Step 1. With your headlights open, you need to remove 5 phillips screws to get the two housing pieces out. Once these are out the housing pieces slide backwards out of the lens (they have plastic pegs they’re on as well.

Step 2. Sand and prep the housing pieces. Not everyone feels this step is necessary, but I disagree. For paint to hold to a surface the surface needs to be at the very least scrubbed with a scotchbrite pad, but really should be wetsanded to prep. If you are unfamiliar with wetsanding you can see some videos on Youtube for how to do that.

Wetsanding – wetsanding is literally using sandpaper that has been soaked/dipped in soapy water. The soapy water acts as an “oil” to make the sandpaper slide more, taking off less with each swipe. This is the method for prepping pieces for painting so that you can remove what is already there as well as leave a surface that is not perfectly smooth for the paint to grip to. You don’t use much pressure at all just lots of back and forth and dipping into the soapy water.

Before:

After: yes it’s a matte black underneath the chrome


I left the other housing pieces besides these 2 alone because I want my bulbs to still reflect properly. You can sand and paint more of the housing just be warned that you are preventing your high beam, turn signal, and front side marker bulbs from reflecting properly (and being visible from distances) depending on the area you are painting.

Step 3. Wipe down both housing pieces using rubbing alcohol and the microfiber cloth. This will remove any oils from your hands that will also prevent paint from sticking. From now until they’re painted pick the pieces up using the microfiber cloth.

Step 4. Set your housing pieces up in your paint area, whether it be blocks or wires you hang them from. Paint your pieces with primer (adhesion promoter). Follow the instructions on the back of the can; I believe you do 2-3 light coats waiting 5-8 minutes inbetween coats. Don’t let it dry too long, it needs to chemically bond together. After the last coat of clear has been applied wait 8 minutes then move to the next step.

Step 5. Paint your base coat (your color coat) onto the housing pieces. I painted the larger piece matte black and the smaller piece K-12 radiant silver. I had to special order the K-12 in a spray can.



Step 6. Let the paint dry in a clean area free of debris for 24 hours. Do not touch the paint as you will leave indentations on it. Over the next 24 hours gasses leak from the paint that will cause your headlights to condense if you re-install these right away. Depending on type of paint used you may need to wait longer than 24 hours, so if unsure then give it 36-48 hours to let the paint fume. If these paint fumes get on the inside of your lens you’ll need to physically wipe them off, which will require you to re-open the headlights later at some point.

(Optional) How to Tint Your Amber Reflectors:

Step 1. Wetsand the surface of the amber reflector lightly with the 1500 grit sandpaper

Step 2. Wipe down the surface with rubbing alcohol using the microfiber rag to remove any oils

Step 3. Spray paint the amber reflector with a few light coats of primer similar to the headlight housing and wait 8 minutes

Step 4. Spray one light coat of VHT nightshades on the amber reflectors. If you go darker than that they may not reflect anymore (if this is important to you). Best part about 1 coat of nightshades is it makes them much darker almost blacked out but they still shine in light so you are legally compliant

Without flash:

With flash:

Now you can re-seal your headlight following the last half of the bake and open your headlight DIY tutorial and put back on your car.

Article: https://www.my4dsc.com/bake-open-headlights-7thgen-maxima/



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Member Credit: Mike Mcivor

The black suede came from Amazon. Used the  3M spray glue. The hardest part was removing the headliner. I should of taken out the seats, but when reinstalling I took the passenger seat and center console out. Also painted the trim plastics with Krylon black primer/paint.
Amazon Search Text: Upholstery Micro Suede Headliner Fabric By The Yard (Black)
Amazon Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072P2XLTM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_86RrAbDF284B2

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Member Credit: Ghozt

I just did my CVT transmission fluid drain/fill the other day, I’m at ~44,000 miles and premium maintenance service plan recommended every 40,000 while standard recommended every 60,000. With how I drive I figured it’s about time so why not. I got my fluid on fleabay, picked up 6 quarts for about $80 including shipping.

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To start out, drive your car around and warm it up (yes warm it up). Park it and run your shifter through all the gears (D, N, R, etc). You will want to work on the car while it’s warm so be careful underneath touching metal.

The process is this. Jack up the car in front; or use rhino ramps which make this job stupid easy. Get a 10mm allen key (this is a fairly large one so it may not be on your multi-tool, I had to go out a buy a specific 10mm one from Sears) and a funnel with a narrow tip to fit in the transmission inlet. The transmission dipstick in your engine bay is the round thing sticking up next to the main engine cover, more towards the driver side of that cover. It has some stupid child-safety plastic thing on it so idiots at Jiffy Lube or whatever don’t ruin your car by “topping off your transmission fluid” with standard stuff I guess.

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Push in the black plastic tab with a flathead screwdriver and pull the dipstick out. Wipe it off, push it all the way back in (do it backwards so the child safety crap doesn’t lock), pull it out again. Your transmission fluid should be at the second notch near the bottom; remember that. Leave the dipstick out this time.

Get an oil pan, about 4-5 quarts of liquid is going to come out so you need a decent sized receptacle to catch it. Under the car look for a big metal piece that looks like this; here’s a picture of it with the drain plug removed.

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Here is the drain plug you’ll remove, be careful the liquid is kind of hot and comes out pretty fast!

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Let it drain for about 15 minutes. Then replace the plug (don’t torque it too hard, just get it nice and snug until you get a decent amount of resistance). Use a funnel and pour in the same amount of fluid you drained out of the car; you can start with 3 quarts and add .5 quarts at a time checking the dip-stick inbetween (remember, second notch). I ended up putting 4.5 quarts back in. When you’re satisfied with the amount of transmission fluid showing on the dipstick, replace the dip-stick and go drive the car. Don’t over do it, the car should have only released 4-5 quarts from the transmission through that drain plug.

Overall my impression is this. Car idles a little quieter, seems “smoother” to drive (as if the CVT wasn’t smooth already) and I’m seeing a .5 – 1 mpg bump in my daily commute which is a nice little surprise. Definitely worth saving the few hundred bucks doing this myself instead of having the dealer do it.

Part number for CVT transmission fluid: 999MP-NS200P. You can get this stuff on many websites, from the dealership, or on eBay.

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Member Credit: Brandan Nankoo,
Mishimoto Photo Credits: Sunday Ortiz and Gerson Flores

No one ever wants to experience the feeling of having to replace a CVT Transmission. Under warranty, it’s not so bad. But out of warranty, it will be a very expensive job. To prolong the life of the CVT, many members have been installing external transmission coolers.

You have various options when it comes to selecting a Transmission Cooler for your 2009-2015 7thgen Maxima. Two of the most popular ones are the Hayden coolers which are universal and applicable to all vehicles and then the Mishimoto coolers.

Please note that you will need an extra quart of Nissan NS-2 or equivalent.  

Hayden Automotive Rapid-cool Cooler #677 ($35.00-40.00)

These are very inexpensive and work very well. All rapid coolers include the patented “Flow path design” which increases heat transfer while minimizing pressure drop.

Mishimoto WRX CVT Transmission Cooler 2015+

These are much more expensive and also work well. The best way to purchase these is via a vendor who can get you a great discount.


Tools Needed

Prep for Installation

1. Jack up the front end

2. Follow Markos video on how to remove the bumper (video below)

3. Blow out Trans cooler to make sure there is no debris inside of it.

Installation (The instruction use the Hayden Cooler for reference)

1. Drill hole in plastic like in the picture below

2. Route hose through top of the crash bar in between headlight and radiator

3. Pull hose through bottom hole beside the wire that leads to crash sensor

4. Apply a bit of CVT fluid to the inlets of the cooler (this helps the hose slide on better

5. Put the clamps on the hose and attach to the cooler (tighten clamps)

6. Place the foam pads on the back of the 4 corners of the cooler (supplied with cooler)

7. Attach the bottom of the cooler with the supplied zip ties

8. Zip tie each hose with the long zip ties. Top one is tied together with the cylinder beside the ac condenser and the bottom to the wire beside it (reference pics above)

9. Cut hose in half using knife

10. Place pan under car

11. Disconnect factory cooler line from radiator which is located on the bottom just above radiator hose (factory clip needs to be squeezed with a pair of pliers)

12. Connect the line from the top of the top of the cooler to the bottom of the radiator with the new clamp
13. Disconnect the other end of the factory line (has the same style clip as the other factory one)

14. Route the other hose coming from the cooler to the end of the factory line and tighten the clamp (make sure there is no kinks in the line)

15. Double check all connections

16. Lower the car but don’t put the bumper on yet

17. Measure how much fluid came out when disconnecting the line

18. Remove CVT dipstick and add the same amount of new fluid that you measured of the old plus add approximately 150ml extra to accommodate the cooler

19. Start the car and warm up to operating temperature

20. With foot firmly on brake run through all the gears

21. Turn the car off and double check the level is in the proper range and add if needed

22. Check for leaks

23. Put bumper back on

24. Recheck all connections after 100 miles

25. Enjoy your new trans-cooler!

Additional Photos (Installation and Position of Mishimoto Cooler):

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Member Credit: Mike Mcivor

I purchased the fabric from Amazon. It is Diamond stitch vinyl and used 5 yards to cover everything. Used 3M spray glue from home depot. The black suede headliner also came from amazon. This entire setup cost right under $300.00.

Amazon Item Description: 1 X Vinyl Quilted Black Fabric w/ 3/8″ Foam Backing Upholstery By the Yard
Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055TXH2E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QWm7zb5GQYJ3T

 

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