Category

my5thgen 00-03

Category

Owner: Anthony Jattan

Year: 2002
Model: Maxima
Color:  White
Transmission: 6-Speed
Trim: SE
Highlights: Has a 2016 Nissan Maxima Motor

Mod List:

  • 2002 Loaded 6MT SE mode (215K)
  • 2016 Nissan Maxima Motor Swap
  • Leather Seats Dyed BMW Red
  • Short-Shifter from Marvin Ramos.
  • Megan Racing Coilovers
  • 18×9 Enkei SBC RPF1s w/ Federal tires
  • Stillen Front Lip
  • AE Rear
  • Custom Trunk Wood Floor, w/ 12” Sub and (2) 8” Mids
  • Red Lion Raiser Engine Mounts
  • HotShot Headers
  • Stillen Short Ram Intake

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Community Member Credit: Eddy

I went to move my car and noticed the cluster was not working. It was lit but it didn’t show any of the numbers and gauges were at zero. I also noted my reverse camera and reverse lights were not working. I used this article on our site to resolve the issue: https://www.my4dsc.com/5thgen-nissan-maxima-10amp-meter-fuse-reference-info-why-it-keeps-blowing/. However, I wanted to make my own version of it.

Symptoms:

  • Limp Mode
  • No Reverse Lights
  • No Dash lights or mileage displayed
  • Kept blowing 10 AMP Meter Fuse Consistently

Tried:

  • Swapped ECU to confirm not ECU
  • Tried New Bulb, Didn’t work

Actual Solution:

Fuse to Check/Replace: 10A METER

The Culprit

You can see the burnt mark on the mirror connectors. I just replaced it with a spare that I had. You can find them on eBay for around $20-$30 bucks shipped. 

 

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Community Member Credit: 96SEmaxB

So I started blowing this in cab 10amp fuse called meter, I checked alternator, battery, called harness lights all the normal stuff, couldn’t find it, meanwhile that fuse controls the cluster and puts the vehicle into fail-safe mode… so I scoured the forums and google and was running out of free time and fuses, so I brought it into the shop (local mechanic)…

It took him 9 hours of following wire and circuit diagrams, Forums, calling Nissan dealerships, had everything unplugged from harness and couldn’t find what was causing the short…

He then noticed on the schematics for that circuit there was a mirror section, not side mirrors but rear mirror, apparently the connection at the actual rear view mirror was toast, melted the wires and shorted internally, unplugged mirror and voilaaa fuse didn’t blow.

So 870$ later I had the issue fixed, a measly 100$ mirror crippled my baby for 3 days and cost me 900$.

I’m just posting this so anyone that runs into the same issue to remember that the rearview mirror may not b on the diagram plainly, but it’s something to check also.

Additional Note:

THANK YOU SOO MUCH

  • This problem happens for me a while back and replaced the fuse and it didn’t pop it happened again and I spent the whole day looking for a short and YouTube videos and forums and I found this one went and looked at the wires behind the mirror they were barley touching so I pulled them apart and replaced the fuse again and it didn’t pop so thank you soon much for your forum.

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